COMPREHENSIVE 

DESCRIPTION OF VIRGINIA, 

AND THE 

DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA: 

CONTAINING 

A COPIOUS COLLECTION 

OF 

GEOaRAPHICAL, STATISTICAL, POLITICAL, COMMERCIAL, RELIGIOUS, MORAL, AND 
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, CHIEFLY FROM ORIGINAL SOURCES. 

BY JOSEPH MARTIN. 

TO WHICH IS ADDED 

A HISTORY OF YIRGINIA, 

FROM ITS FIRST SETTLEMENT TO THE YEAR 1754, 

WITH AN ABSTRACT OF THE PRINCIPAL EVENTS FROM THAT PERI«D TO THB 

INDEPENDENCE OF VIRGINIA. 

BY 

W. H. BROCKENBROUGH, 

"'^RMERLY LIBRARIAN AT THE UNIVERSITY OF VIRGINIA, AND AFTERWARDS JUDOK 
OF THE UNITED STATES COURT IN FLORIDA. 



J. W. RANDOLPH, 
No. 121, Main Street, Richmond. 




t 



TO 



THE 3IEMBERS 



OF THE 



VIRGINIA HISTORICAL AND PHILOSOPHICAL SOCIETY 



Gentlemkv, 



Excuse the liberty 1 take in asking the protection of 
your name, for a work which I am compelled to throw 
upon the world under the most inauspicious circumstan- 
ces. You seem to constitute the most appropriate body, 
to which I can look for aid in perfecting the great work 
which I have undertaken, and of which this imperfect es- 
say constitutes the first fruit. To render a work of this 
description a perfect picture of the moral and political 
condition of a state, and a faithful record uf its progress to 
its present condition, the efforts of no single individual 
can be adequate ; but the united and persevering exertion 
of a number of gentlemen associated for the express pur- 



4 DEDICATION. 

pose of investigating and developing the resources of the 
state, and finding and preserving the records of its histo- 
ry, are absohitely necessary. I now venture to call your 
attention to the first work which has ever appeared since 
the publication of Mr. Jefferson's notes, which professed 
to embrace all which could be ascertained of the present 
situation of Virginia, and some investigation of its past 
history. That materials for a much more copious detail 
of both subjects exists, no one can doubt, but with the 
hope that the information here collected may not be alto- 
gether useless, I venture to ask the protection of j^our 
countenance. 

And remain, gentlemen, 

With tlie greatest respect. 
Your most obedient 

And most humble Servant, 

JOSEPH MARTIN. 



PREFACE. 



We are well aware that it is considered by critics 
to be an act of unpardonable im])erlinence to obtrude an 
imperfect work upon the notice of the public, and then 
apologize for its imperfections. But we beg leave to as- 
sure their C3'nical Lordships that this is no meat for them, 
and of course they need not whet their beaks at our an- 
nouncement of its imperfections. Our apology is not 
made to deprecate their wrath, but in deference lo a gen- 
erous public, which will i)e thankful to the enterprize 
which gives it a mass of information which was not pos- 
sessed before, nnd not cavil because every fact is not giv^i) 
which exists, or those which are given are not in the very 
best form in which they could have been presented. 

The publisher of this work lays claim to no literary at- 
tainment whatever: he only claims the merit due to bold- 
ness in enterprize and unconquerable perseverance in 
execution. lie has been u})wards of two years col- 
lecting the materials for this work, from individuals re- 
siding in every quarter of the state, expending much 
money in the acquisition of his matter, at a time when he 
was scarcely able to su])port his family. But this method 
of collecting matter, although it ])roduced considerable 
delay, ensured the most recent and authentic informa- 
tion which could be p^^ocured. The almost innumerable 
contrilnitions when received had to be examined and ar- 
ranged, and such parts as were thought either useful or in- 
teresting, culleil from the mass of unnecessary matter 
which sometimes encumbered the communications. — 
When this was done, and the publisher thought he had 
obtained such an amount of inlormation as would be highly 
useful, although it would not form a perfect Gazetteer of 



6 PREFACE, 

Virginia, he resolved to publish and rely upon subse^ 
quent editions to make up the deficiencies. But here a 
new difficulty occurred: — without credit and without capi- 
tal, it seemed impossible to find an individual to print, or 
one to edit the book. 

The huge mass of undigested manuscript was presented 
to several literary gentlemen, who shrunk from the task 
of arranging so voluminous a collection of ill- written man- 
uscript, upon the contingency of being paid by the sale 
of the work. At length, however, a young man who had 
no experience in such matters was induced to undertake 
it, but his occasional absence and necessary attention to 
other business, added to a most illegil)le chirography 
caused many errors of the press which it was out of his 
power to correct. The printers also were new in their 
'business, and not prepared for conducting it with that at- 
tention to neatness and accuracy which was desirable.^ 
But although there are many glaring tj'pographical er- 
rors, which the editor could not correct, because he did 
not see the proof sheets, it is believed that very few of 
them effect the sense, and still fewer falsify statements of 
fact. 

The publisher has at length struggled through diffici;]- 
ties, which often seemed insuperable to less persevering 
men, and now presents the work to the public, if not as 
perfect as it might be, yet certainly as perfect as he ^^aui^^ 
at this time make it. 

The publisher feels it his duty to render the most 
grateful acknowledgments to the many individuals who 
have rendered him assistance in the collectioi^ of mate- 
rials ; and begs leave to mention the names of a few lite- 
rary gentlemen to whose kindness he is under especial 
obligation, — among these are Messrs. James E. Heath of 
Kichmond, Lewis Summers of Kanawha, Lucien Minor of 
Louisa, J. R. VV. Dunbar of Winchester, Thomas S. Plea- 
sants of Goochland, VV". G. Minor of Caroline, J. R. Fitz- 
hugh of Stafford, R. L. Cook of Augusta, Archibald Stu- 
art of Patrick, Linn Banks, of Madison, William Shultice 
of Mathews, A. Sparks o( Southampton, F. Mallory of 
Norfolk, H. L. Hopkins of Powhatan, J. Minor of Spott- 
sylvania, J. H. Lee of Orange, Wm. Green of Culpeper, 



PREFACE. 7 

Wm. A. Harris of Page, R. B. Seniple of King & Queen, 
Yeardley Taylor of Loudoun, Isaac Flesher of Jackson, 
Wm. Burk of Monroe, S. Philips of Bedford, J. D. Mc- 
Gill of Middlesex, N. M. Taliaferro of Franklin, G. W. 
G. Browne of Wythe, J. J. Williams of Frederick 
Wm. J. Williams of Charlotte, Joseph Jenney of Prince 
William, James P. Carrell of Kusscll, B. F. Dabney of 
King William, Joseph Duff of Lee, James Garland of 
Nelson, Wm. Wilson of Bath, and Edgar Snowden of 
Alexandria. Many more have sent in contributions well 
worthy of special notice, who have been perhaps as libe- 
ral as these gentlemen in the extent of their communica- 
tions, and the trouble they seem to have taken, but ife 
would be difficult to know where to stop, if he was to 
publish the names of all to whom he is under obliga- 
tions. Such portions of the Gazetteer as are not original 
have been compiled from the Encyclopoedia Americana, 
the Gazetteer of the United States, Elliott's District of 
Columbia, or Oflicial Documents. 

Apology is due for publishing the hasty composition 
which is called rather from its length than its character, a 
History of Virginia. The publisher promised in his pros- 
pectus between six and seven hundred pages, and all who 
saw his manuscript volumes supposed they would, unless 
very extensively curtailed overrun a thousand, but when 
the matter came to be edited and printed, it did not hold 
out as well as was supposed. This unfortunately could 
not be ascertained until the Gazetteer was through the 
press, and then it was necessary to fill it up with a more 
extensive, instead of the concise, history which had beeo 
promised. 

The time was of course too limited, being written as 
fast as three active compositors could print, for the author 
to have an opportunity to pay any attention whatever to 
his languge or style, or to digress upon the many topics 
which so invitingly offered, or turn his eyes for a moment 
to other colonies or countries. He was compelled to pro- 
ceed with the single isolated narrative of Virginia history, 
and he trusts that the subject itself is so interesting that it 
will be read even in his hasty sketch. Were he and his 
work not both infinitely too humble for criticism to hawk 



« PREFACE 

at, he would expect to be torn in pieces for the audacity 
of dignifying the hasty composition of Utile more than a 
fortnight, with the noble name o[ history-, but he feels })er- 
fectly secure in his insigniticance, and if the insect swaria 
of little critics should be inclined to inflict their venomous 
stings upon him, he can throw around himself a shield, 
which even their utmost fury cannot penetrate, and that 
is the consciousness that his hasty sketch was not written 
with the expectation of meeting with approbation as a 
philoso})hic treatise upon the history of Virginia, but 
merely with the hope of j)resenting a succinct and faithful 
narrative of the early events of the colony. This he has 
labored assiduously to effect, consulting ever}' authority 
which it was possible to examine in so shojt a time ; and if 
on any subject, all is not said which might have been said, 
or all which is said is not true, he at least feels sure that 
he has respectable authority for every word he utters, atid 
that he believes all to be true. 

All the circumstances of the case, we doubt not with a 
liberal public, will ensure this first attempt to describe 
Virginia as it exists at the present day, a favorable recep- 
tion ; and it will respect the disposition and the enter- 
prize w^hich has given them so much, rather than blame 
the stern poverty which would not allow the publisher to 
wait longer, Avithout receiving some emolument. With 
the proceeds of this edition he expects to be able to sub- 
sist, until he can prepare a work more worthy of the noble 
state whose moral and physical attributes he d.elineates. 

It will be perceived tliat a new j)lan has been adopted 
in the arrangement. Iiistead of giving a continuous al- 
phal)etical list of subjects and places, from tlie beginning 
to the end of the volume, by which means much repeti- 
tion must occur, and frequent references have to be made 
in order to obtain an account of any county or section of 
country ; the work is divided into three parts, first a gene- 
ral description of the moral and physical character of the 
whole state is given, and then of the two great portions, 
eastern and western Virginia separately, and under these 
latter heads a general description is given of each county, 
in alphabetical order, and under each county an alphabeti- 
cal list of the most remarkable places it contains ; a gene- 



PREFACE. 9 

ral alphabetical index at the end completes the system. 
The object of this arrangement was to present to the mind 
each separate portion of country at once, in a connected 
view, so that the reader at a distance might form as good 
an idea of the state of improvement in each county, as it he 
were on the spot, which it would be impossible to do, if 
each little place was scattered through the book in a gen- 
eral alphabetical arrangement, whilst it was thought that 
the general index w^ould make it as convenient for pur- 
poses of mere reference as it would be under the old sys- 
tem. 

The same wish to present a connected view, and the dif- 
ferent characteristics which distinguish Eastern and Wes- 
tern Virginia, produced the division of the state into these 
two portions. 

It is unnecessary lo enlarge upon the necessity which 
existed for such a work, it has been felt by every traveller, 
man of business, and literary man in the community ; and 
the information here collected, existed for the most part 
only in the minds of those who have contributed it. The 
desideratum is not yet however fully supplied, -as no indi- 
vidual lias been found willing to contribute the informa- 
tion, which was wanting with regard to many of the coi.n- 
ties; but this it is hoped may be obtained in time for 
another edition. With a hope that what is already accom- 
plished will meet the expectations and approbation of 
those who have so liberally patronized him, the work is 
for the present dismissed. 

J3V THE PUBLISHER. 



TABLK OF CONTENTS. 



Dedication. -•- = ... 3 

Preface, ....... 5 

List of tables, - - = • - . 13 

List of errata, -. = . = .. 14 

Table of abbreviations, • • • - - 15 

General Description of Virginia, =■ - - - 16 

Situation, boundaries, and extent, - - - - ib. 

Face of the country, • - - - - ib. 

Geology and Mineralog)*, - - - - 23 

Mineral waters, - - - - - -24 

Scenery and Natural Curiosities, - - - - 25 

Mountains, .-. = .. 27 

Bays, harbors, rivers, swamps, . = = . 36 

Climate, - ■ . . . . - - 57 

Political and moral condition, 

Population, .»,. = = 66 

Government and laws. - . • - = 69 

Civil list, .,..., 72 

Laws, -' = --- - 75 

Religion, .--«-.• 76 

Education, ...... 77 

Military organization, arms, &.c - • 83 

Lunatic hospitals, » - . , , . 85 

Penitentiary, ,...=,. ib. 

Internal Improvement, . . . . . 87 

Manufactures, - - - = • 99 

Agriculture, .... = - ib. 

Commerce, • = - • - -100 

Fiscal concerns, - • ■ - - ■• 101 

Revenue. • • - - • - - 103 

Banks, - - • ■ - = 104 

Remarks on arrangement pursued in description of counties, - i 1 

Eastern Virginia, - - - - - - 111 

Western Virginia—Introduction, . . , - 297 

" General Description, - ■- - 299 

Virginia House of Delegates, - • - - - 469 

Senate, .,..,- 470 

District of Columbia, 471 

Establishment, situation, boundaries, and extent, - - ib. 

Soil, - 473 

Geology and Mineralogy. . . . - 474 

Climate. - • " - • - = - 476 



CONTENTS, 



n 



District of Columbia. 

Aborigine?, .... 

Population, .... 

Government, .... 

Alexandria, 

Fisheries on the Potomac, 

Water Fowl on the Potomac, 

Washington City, 
Congressional Districts of Virginia, 
Klectoral Districts, .... 

Virginia Election Laws, 

" Ratification of U. S. Constitution, 

Declaration of Rights (June 12, 1776,) 
Table exhibiting the population, 6cc. &c. &c, 

HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 



Page. 

476 

ib. 

ib. 

477 

480 

482 

496 

512 

513 

515 

523 

ib. 

528-9 



CHAPTER. I 
Introduction, Progress of Commerce, Roanoke Settlements. 

Merit of discovering America, — Advancement of Commerce by the 
Crusades — in the Italian cities — in Spain — in Portugal, — Dis- 
covery of America. — England, — Want cf Commerce in early times, 
—Voyages of the Cabots, — Progress of En.glish discovery, — Fro- 
bisher — Gilbert — Raleigh, — Failure of the Roar.oke settlements, 531 

CHAPTER II. 
Settlement .\t James Toun, — Sufferingp of the Colonists, — 
Adventures of Smith. — Nevv- Company raised — its charter,— 
James Town, — Machinations against Smith, — Difficulties of the 
colony, — Smith taken prisoner — his release. — Arrival of Newport, 
— Discovery of earth believed to be gold, — Departure of Newport, 
— Survey of the Chesapeake and its waters by Smith, — Smith made 
President, — Second arrival of Newport, — Judicious conduct of 
Smith, — New Charter, — New arrival of emigrants, — Badness of 
the selection, — Nevv settlements, — Accident to Smith — his depaiture, 
— his character, - - . . , - ' o 15 

CHAPTER III. 
Progres.s of the Colony,— Massacre of 1662,— Dissolution 
OF THE London Company.— State of the colony at Smith's depar=> 

ture, — its conduct and consequent sufferings. — Arrival of Gates ■■ 

of Lord De La Ware, — his departure. — Arrival of Dale,— Martial 
law, — Gates governor, — Grants of land to individuals, — New char- 
ter,— Marriage of Pocahontas,— Friendly relations with the In- 
dians, — Subjection of Pqrt Royal and Manhattan, — Cultivation of 
Tobacco, — Tenure of lands,~Tyranny of Argall, — Propriety of 
reform in the government. — Yeardley governor, — First colonial 
assembly in 1619. — Introduction of women, — Introduction of ne- 
groes by the Dutch in 1620. — Constitution brought over by Sir 
Francis Wyatt. — Relation.s with the Indians, — Ma.ssacre of the 22d 
of .March. 1662, — its consequences, — Struggle.? between the king 
ami- the company, — Commissioners sent lo Virginia, — Firmness of 
the Virginians, — Dissolution of the company. - - 55s 



12 CONTENTS 

PAGE. 

CHAPTER IV. 
Progress of the Colony from the Dissolution of the Lon- 
don Company, to the breaking out of Bacon's Rebellion 

IN 1675. — Accession of Charles I. — Tobacco trade, — Yeardley 
governor, — his commission favorable — his death and character. — 
Lord Baltimore's reception, — State of religion, — legislation upon the 
subject, — Invitation to the Puritans to settle on Delaware Bay. — 
Harvey governor, — Error with regard to his early administration, — 
Dismemberment of the colony, — Grant of Carolina and Maryland, 
— probable cause of discontent. — Harvey deposed — restored, — 
Wyatt governor, — Acts of the Legislature improperly censured, — 
Berkeley governor, — Indian relations, — Opechanranough prisoner, 
— his death, — Change of government in England,'^Fleet and army 
sent to reduce Virginia, — Preparation for defence by Berkeley, — 
Agreement entered into between the colony and the commissioners 
of^the commonwealth, — Indian hostilities, — Matthews elected gover- 
nor, — Difficulties between the governor and the legislature, — adjust- 
ed, — State of the colony and its trade, — Commissioners sent to 
England, — The Restoration,— General legislation, - - 576 

CHAPTER V. 
Bacon's Rebellion, — Ho.«tile Designs of the French. — Indif- 
ference to change in England, — Navigation act, — Convicts,— Con- 
spiracy detected, — Discontents,~Cessation from tobacco planting 
for one vear. — Royal grants,-gtVirginia's remonstrance, — Success 
of deputies, — Indian hostilities, — Army raised and disbanded by 
governor, — People petition for an army, — elect Bacon commander, 
— he marches without commission and defeats Indians, — pursued 
by governor, who retreats on hearing of rising at Jam.es Town, — 
Governor makes concessions, — Bacon prisoner, — is pardoned. — 
People force commission from governor, — Bacon marches to meet 
Indians, — hears he is declared a rebel by Berkeley, — marches to 
meet him, — he flees to Accomac, — Convention called and free go- 
vernment, established—Bacon defeats the Indians,— Berkeley ob- 
tains possession of the shipping, and occupies James Town,— is 
beseiged bv Bacon, and, driven out, — Jamestown burnt. — Death of 
Bacon, — character of his enterprise. — Predatory warfare, — treaty 
between governor and his opponents, — Cruelty of Berkeley, — 
King's commissioners, — Departure of Berkeley and his death. — 
Acts of Assembly passed during Bacon's influenxe. — Conduct of 
king'* commissioners, — Culpeper governor, — Discontents, — Con- 
duet of Beverly. — Howard governor. — General conduct of Vir- 
ginia and progress of afiairs.— Plan of De Callier for dividing the ^ 
British colonies, ------ oJ9 

Sketch of Virginia history from thp bpn-;..>,;n.r of the FreMich war to 
the beginning of the Revolution, - ' *^'''' 



LIST OF TABLES. 



Jefferson's and Watson's Meteorological observations, - - 61 

Population, -...-.- 67 
School Commissionerfi' Reports, - - - - ' 78 

Militia and Arms, ,.---. 83 

Convicts, ....-.- 86 

Improvements contemplated, ----- 95 

Fund, ------ 96 

Receipts into Treasury, • - - - - 101 

Disbursements from Treasury, - - - - 102 

Revenue from each county, - . . , . - 1.03 

Banks, - -" ■ - - - • - lO-i 

Students of the University, - - - - - 126 

Tobacco trade of Lynchburg, Petersburg, and Richmond, - 140 

Louisa population, - - - - - - 219 

Population of District of Columbia, .... 47(3 

" of Alexandria, ..... 479 

" of Georgetown, ..... 494 

" of Washington, ..... 499 

Costs of Federal Buildings, ..... 508 

Table of Population, &c. &c. of each State, - - - 528 

Table of Time of Election, &c. &c. .... 529 



ERRATA. 



***In this list only such errata are collected as effect the sense. 
Page 69. 12 lines from the bottom for "erected" read "created." 

" 67 and 68, the total population of Virginia is given as 1,211,375 instead of 
1,211,405, — the error arises from an error in the column of Female Slaves, 

p. 68. 
" 139. Top line, for "dram" read "dam." 

" 151. Five lines from the top dele "H-^rvey's Store." repeated second time. 
" 154. Top line, for "1778" read "1748." 

" 160, Right hand column, 11th line from bottom, for "depulated" read "depopu- 
lated." 
" 176. Left hand column, dele "Laurel Spring," which belongs to Albemarle, see 

p. 114. 
" 215. Upperville is in the wrong place — transpose to Fauquier p. 174. 
" 234. Right hand column, Lombardy Grove, distance from R. given twice — ibe 

last one is correct. . . 

■' 248. Right hand column, 10 lines from top, for "1,338" read "338." ' -'' 

" 275. " " 14 " for "Baoad" read "Broad." 

" 284. Left hand column, 12 " . for "Thombupg" read "Thorns- 

burg." 
" 339. Four lines from bottom, for "Logan" read "Fayette." 
" 355. Left hand column, 18 lines from top, for "Ut lund inter minores sideres," 

read, " inter omnes 

velut inter ignes 

Luna-rnijnopes.", 
" 135. Left hand column, line 23d from top, for "August and September" read 

"April and August." 
" 276. First line on top, for "1831" read "1833." 
'- " Fifth line from top, for '-Shenandoah" read "Page." 



ABBREVIATIONS. 



p, o. - 
p. V - 

p. T. - 
C. H. 

ms. 

Distance from "W." 
"R." 
Co. 



Post-OfTice. 
Post Village. 
Post Town. 
Court House, 
miles. 

Washington. 
Richmond. 
County. 



Mntn. - - - Mountains. 

Long. - - - Longitude. 

Lat. - - - Latitude. 

Sq. ms. - - - Square miles. 

The rest, such as N. E. W. S. &c.for the 
points of the compass are sufficiently mani- 
fest. 



GAZETTEER OF VIRGINIA. 



PRE JLIMIN ARIES. 



SITUATION, BOUNDARIES, AND EXTENT. 

Virginia was one of the original thirteen, and is now one of the twenty 
four United States of North America; it lies between 36° 31', and 40° 39' 
north latitude; and 6° 35' Avest, and 1° 48' east longitude from Washing* 
ton city: it is bounded on the north and northeast by Pennsylvania and Ma- 
ryland, east by the Atlantic ocean, south by North Carolina and Tennessee, 
and west by Kentucky and Ohio; its mean length from east to west is 355 
miles, its mean breadth 185 miles, and its horizontal area 65,624 square 
miles. The Atlantic bounds Virginia, from the extreme south-eastern an- 
gle of Maryland, to the extreme north-eastern angle of North Carolina, a 
distance of 112 miles; North Carolina bounds it on the south, from the At- 
lantic west to the Iron Mountains, 340 miles; from this point the boundary 
runs along the Iron Mountains in a north-easterly direction, to the north- 
east angle of Tennessee, four miles; Tennessee then forms a border to the 
Cumberland mountains 110 miles; then Kentucky, along the Cumberland 
mountains to the Tug Fork of Sandy river, 1 10 miles; thence the boundary 
runs down this stream to the Ohio 70 miles.- The boundary follows the 
Ohio from the mouth of Tug Fork of Sandy, to the point at which it emerges 
from Pennsylvania, 355 miles; from this it runs south in common with the 
Avestern border of Pennsylvania, 64 miles, thence east along its southern 
border to the north-western angle of Maryland, 58 miles; from this, south 
to the head of the north branch of the Potomac 36 miles; and down the 
Potomac to its mouth, 320 miles ; it then crosses the Chesapeake Bay, and 
runs east^ along the southern boundary of Maryland to the Atlantic, 60 
miles — presenting an entire outline of 1,635 miles. 

Face of the Country^ — Natural and Political Sections. — Virginia 
exceeds all of her sister States in territorial extent, and is perhaps the most 
strongly marked in her physical features. Like Maryland and North Caro- 
lina, she has her sea and alluvial section, below the head of tide-water; her 
middle and hilly section; and her central or mountainous section; but in 
Virginia a fourth section must be added, which may be called the western 
or Ohio section, its waters emptying into that stream. 

These four sections are so distinctly marked in their features as to be re- 
cognized in the fundamental law of the State, and must ever have important 
political and moral effects. Adopting the limits indicated in the new con- 
stitution, these four sections contain as follows, A'iz. First — The section 
from the sea coast to the head of tide-water, thirty-six counties, and three 
towns, to wit : Accomac, Caroline, Chesterfield, Charles City, Essex, Eli- 
zabeth City, Fairfax, Greensville, Gloucester, HanoA'er, Henrico, Isle of 
Wight, James City, King and Q.uecn, King William, King George, Lan- 
caster, Mathews, Middlesex, Nansemond, New Kent, Northumberland, 
Northampton, Norfolk, Princess Anne, Prince George, Prince William, 
Richmond, Southampton, Spottsj-lvania, Stafford, Surry, Sussex,. Warwick, 



18 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

Westmoreland, York, and the city of Richmond, borough of Norfolk, and 
town of Petersburg; which are all together entitled to 36 Representatives 
in the House of Delegates. Second. — The territory stretching from the 
head of tide-water to the Blue Ridge, contains 30 counties, to wit : Albe- 
marle, Amelia, Amherst, Bedford, Buckingham, Brunswick, Campbell, 
Charlotte, Cumberland, Culpeper, Dinwiddle, Fauquier, Fluvanna, Frank- 
lin, Goochland, Henry, Halifax, Loudon, Louisa, Lunenburg, Madison, 
Mecklenburg, Nelson,' Nottoway, Orange, Patrick, Pittsylvania, Powhatan, 
Prince Edward, and Rappahannock, which together have 42 Representatives 
in the House of Delegates. Third — The Valley section contains 15 coun- 
ties, to wit : Augusta, Alleghany, Bath, Berkley, Bottetourt, Frederick, 
Hampshire, Hardy, Jefferson, Morgan, Page, Pendleton, Rockingham, 
Rockbridge, and Shenandoah; which together elect 25 members of the House 
of Delegates. Fourth — The Trans-Alleghany, or western section, contains 
30 counties, to wit : Brooke, Cabell, Fayette, Floyd, Grayson, Greenbrier, 
Giles, Harrison, Jackson, Montgomery, Monongalia, Kanawha, Lee, Lewis, 
Logan, Mason, Monroe, Nicholas, Ohio, Pocahontas, Preston, Randolph, 
Russell, Scott, Smyth, Tazewell, Tyler, Washington, Wood, and Wj^he; 
which together elect 3 1 delegates to the House of Delegates. 

Section First. — There is little of Virginia actually level, this term being 
strictly applicable only to the counties of Accomac and Northampton, on 
the eastern side of the Chesapeake, and to Princess Anne, Norfolk, and 
Nansemond on the west; containing an aggregate area of only about 2200 
square miles, or less than the thirty-first part of the State. 

The shores of the peninsula east of the Chesapeake, which constitute the 
two counties of Accomac and Northampton, are low and flat, about 60 
miles long, and from 10 to 15 wide, and bounded tOAvards the sea by a 
string of low sandy islets. The waters of the Chesapeake enter the sea 
between cape Charles and cape Henry, forming a straight of fifteen miles 
in width. Norfolk, one of the principle ports of Virginia, has a good har- 
bour in the southern part of the bay, near the mouth of James River. 
The embouchure of the James forms a speacious haven, called Hampton 
Roads, in which all the navies in the world might ride; this haven was 
formerly open, but the strong fortifications, castle Calhoun, and fortress 
Monroe, on the opposite sides of the entrance would now probably render it im- 
practicable for an adverse fleet to enter. — [See Old Point Comfort — Eliza- 
beth city county.] 

Except in depth, extent, and position the Chesapeake does not difl^er 
essentially from Pamlico and Albemarle soimds on the south, or Delaware 
bay on the north. Virginia and Maryland occupy the centre of a physi- 
cal section, remarkable for its deep and wide rivers; and the tributaries of 
the Chesapeake seem in this respect to imitate their great reservoir. The 
Pocomoke, Nantikoke, Choptank, and Chester on the east; and the James, 
York, Rappahannock, Potomac, Patuxent, and Patapsco on the west, all 
widen into expansive bays before their final discharge. These minor 
bays gradually become less deep and wide, as they approach the head of 
tide water, but they retain the distinctive character of bays as far as the 
tide penetrates. 

West of the Chesapeake, the country gradually rises into hill and dale, 
though much marshy and flat land skirts the wide mouths of the rivers, 
and the minor bays which they form. The soil of the section under re- 
view is strictly alluvial, for though the Hice of the country, on approaching 



OF VIRGINIA. 19 

the primitive ledge -which terminates the tides, is diversified by waving 
hills, yet its slruc/ure is of the character styled by geologists ancle)) t allu- 
vial. The greater part of the substrata are composed of sand and pebbles; 
large masses of rock in their original position are rare, except at great 
depths. 

Seclio/c Second. — The Blue Ridge traverses Virginia for 2G0 miles, in 
a direction from S. W. to N. E. and except where passed by the James 
and Roanoke rivers it is a continuous range. It constitutes a county limit 
throughout its progress in this state. Falling from this finely delineated 
chain, is .an inclined plain, containing 15,38G square miles, terminated by 
the head of the Atlantic tides. This beautiful section, if we merely regard 
the fall of water, has a declivity of about 300 to 500 feet; but the fall of 
water gives a very inadequate idea of the slope in the arable soil, which 
towards the Blue Ridge rises in many places, to at least 1000 feet, in the 
spaces between the rivers. The face of nature though exhibiting little of 
grandeur, is extremely rich and pleasing ni the endless variety of hill, 
valley and river scenery. In the higher part, besides the magnificent back 
ground of the Blue Ridge, the more distinct ranges of the Alleghany 
may be seen towering above it, from the detached ranges in its neigh- 
borhood; all of which tells that the solid structure of the section is Appa- 
lachian, and that the outer ridges of that system influence the course of 
the waters, as may be seen in the Roanoke, James, Rappahannock and 
Potomac rivers. 

This section is as healthy as any portion of the world, the water is ex- 
cellent and plentiful throughout; the lands fertile, producing in abundance 
all the staples of the state; easily recovered when exhausted, and always 
susceptible of high improvement by judicious management; the farms 
are smaller than in the tide water district; the people are industrious and 
intelligent, and from James river to the Potomac perhaps are the best 
farmers in the state. Mr. Jefferson pronounced that portion of this section 
which lies under the south west range of mountains, to be the garden 
spot of America; and General Washington, when written to by Sir John 
Sinclair to recommend to him some spot for a residence in America, after 
passing in review the whole union, pronovmced a residence some where 
on the eastern side of the Blue Ridge, between the Potomac and the 
James, to combine most advantages, and be the most desirable. 

Section Third. — The great valley section is in some respects the most 
remarkable in Virginia ; it extends from the Iron mountains, at the N. E. 
angle of Tennessee, to the northern bend of the Potomac, at Hancocks- 
town; its mean length is near 300 miles; the mean distance between the 
Blue Ridge and Alleghany about 43. This is a continuation of the Kit- 
tatinny valley of Pennsylvania, and is a true table-land or mountain pla- 
teau. The rise to this plateau is abrupt, the difference of the mean eleva- 
tion on the east, and west sides of the Blue Ridge being from 200 to 300 
feet. The elevation of L\Tichburg is onlv 500 feet, whilst that of Staunton, 
near the sources of the 'Shenandoah is 1,152 feet; Lexington, m Rock- 
bridge county, 902 feet; Salem, on the Roanoke, in Botetourt county, 
1,200 feet; and the Warm Springs, in Bath county, 1,782 feet; and the 
mean elevation of the farms throughout the section in all probability ex- 
ceeds 1000 feet. A stratum of limestone of varying breadth, runs nearly 
parallel Avith the Blue Ridge, on its western side, which continues to ac- 
company it in its course through Maryland, Pennsylvania, and New Jer- 



20 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

sey. Tlie surface of the great valley of Virginia is much broken and di- 
versified, but every where contains zones of highly productive soil; it 
abounds, with few exceptions, with the purest and best water, and is so rich 
in scenery, as to aflx)rd an endless variety of beautiful landscape. With re- 
gard to declivity, the A-^alley presents some curious phenomena. The 
northern and nearly one half of the whole surface declines to the N. E., 
towards the Potomac, and is drained by the Shenandoah, Cacapon, and 
south branch of Potomac. 

South of the sources of the Potomac and Shenandoah, is a middle valley j 
Avhich inclines to the east, and is drained by the James and Roanoke: the 
extreme southern part of the valley inclines to the north west ; and is 
drained by New river, and the great Kenawha. We thus perceive that 
this table land is partly inclined towards the Atlantic, and partly towards 
the Ohio; and that the inflected line which separates the sources of the 
James and Roanoke, which flow into the former, from those of the great 
Kenawha, flowing into the latter, — crosses the valley obliquely from the 
Blue Ridge to the Alleghany 

Section Fourth. — The extreme length of the Ohio section of Virginia, 
from the northern boundary of Tenessee, to the northern angle of Brooke 
covmty, is nearly 300 miles. The greatest breadth is nearly along the gen- 
eral course of the great Kenawha, about 135 miles; but both extremes are 
narrow; the mean width is about 94 miles. The area 28,337 square 
miles. The surface is for the most part mountainous, and nearly every 
where broken. The chains of the Appalachian system stretch over it, in 
a course nearly parallel to that part of the Ohio which bounds Virginia. 
The soil is even more variable in quality than the surface is in elevation, 
every grade of sterility and fertility may be found. As the elevation of the 
water, at the junction of the Ohio and great Kenawha is 533 feet, and that 
point is only about 40 miles from the mouth of the great Sandy, the lowest 
point in western Virginia, we may regard all the surface of the Ohio sec- 
tion as rising above 500 feet. The elevation of Wheeling above the Ocean 
is 634 feet; and the Ohio, the base of this great inclined plane, and the re- 
cipient of the Avaters of western Virginia, rises upwards of 560 feet, nearly 
to a level with lake Erie. The dividing ridge of the waters of the Ohio 
and Atlantic, is the apex of the plain before us, and has its highest eleva- 
tion in the mountains, from which the sources of the James and Roanoke 
rise on one side, and those of the groat KenaAvha on the other. Under the 
heads of Giles, Pochahontas, and Monroe counties, which occupy the 
highest part of the plain we are surveying, it may be seen, that the mean 
elevation of the arable soil exceeds 1,600 feet. A^similar, if not a higher, 
mean height might be assigned to the sources of the great Kanawha, from 
those of the Greenbrier to those of New river. From these elevated vallies 
the sources of the Ohio flow, like radii from a common centre. The dif- 
ferent branches of the Monongahela rise in Lewis and Randolph counties, 
and flowing north, through Harrison,, Monongalia, and Preston counties, 
enter Pennsylvania ; and uniting their waters, continue north, to meet those of 
the Alleghany, and form the Ohio, at Pittsburg. The Ohio from Pittsburg 
sweeps a curve first north westward, then westward for nearly 100 miles, 
in a course nearly parallel with the Monongahela, the two streams flowing 
m opposite directions. From the large curve of the Ohio below Pittsburg, 
to the influx of the little Kenawha, there is only a narrow inclined plane of 
about 30 miles width, between tlic Ohio, and the sources of creeks which 



OF VIRGINIA. 21 

flow castwardly into the Mononoahola. Down tliis plain, flow, ITarinans, 
Cross, Biidhlo, Wheeling, Fish, Fishinrr, Middle Island, and some other 
creeks of less note. Near the little Kenawha the plain widens, and the de- 
clivity inclines from W. to N. W: this declination is also maintained in the 
rallies of the great Kenawha, and great Sandy rivers. 

The tributary waters of the extreme southern part of the Ohio section of 
Virginia, though drained into the same recipient, are borne from the eleva- 
ted plateau, between the sources of the great Kenawha and Tennessee; and 
before their discharge make the immense semicircular curve of the latter. 

The difference of level between high-water mark on the Ohio river, and 
the elevation we have noticed, is about a mean of 850 feet: but this eleva- 
tion is only the first in a series of planes, which rise one above another, until 
a mean height of between 1 800 and 2000 feet, is attained in central Virginia. 
If we assume latitude 38° 10' as the central latitude, it will at longitude 3° 
west of Washington city, correspond nearly with the greatest elevation, and 
estimating 400 feet as an equivalent to a degree of latitude, the counties 
along the mountainous section of Virginia will have a climate, similar to 
that in north latitude 43*^ on the Atlantic coast. 

If from the foregoing elements, we embrace the whole of Virginia, we 
have before us, a large section of the United States ; extending over more 
than 4° of latitude, and 8f ° of longitude, differing in relative level upwards 
of 2000 feet, without estimating mountain peaks, or ridges. If we suppose 
the actually settled parts of the United States, to be 630,000 square miles, 
Virginia will embrace one ninth part. It is as we have seen traversed 
from S. W. to N. E. by the Appalachian system of mountains in lateral 
chains; of these the Blue Ridge is the most distinctly defined, but is only 
one of six or seven chains that may be traced and identified across the state. 
One of these chains, though omitted in some maps and broken into frag- 
ments in others, is in nature little less obvious than the Blue Ridge; and is 
distinct throughout its course in Virginia. This neglected Appalachian 
chain stretches at a distance, varying from 15 to 30 miles, southeastwardly 
from the Blue Ridge. It is known in New Jersey as Schooley's mountain, 
and though entirely apparent through Pennsylvania, it has received no dis- 
tinct appellation in that state. In Maryland it is called the Parr Spring 
Ridge, and is rendered very conspicuous where it is traversed by the Poto- 
mac, by the fine conical peak called the Sugar Loaf In Virginia it 
traverses Loudon, Fauquier, Orange, Albemarle, Nelson, Amherst, Bed- 
ford, Franklin, and Henry counties. West of the Blue Ridge, the moun- 
tain chains are also very confusedly delineated on our maps, though they 
are far from being so in nature; even on Tanner's large map of the United 
States, the continuous chains cease with the Alleghany, whilst in fact 
western Virginia is traversed by three distinct chains, west of this moun- 
tain; — indeed the whole state, from the head of tide-water to the Ohio, is 
formed of a series of mountain chains, and intervening vallies. This struc- 
ture is obvious to all who examine the map, with a knowledge of the influ- 
ence of the direction of the hills upon the inflection of the streams. Among 
the mountain chains however, the Blue Ridge must ever be the most impor- 
tant, physically and politically. This chain stands distinct and de- 
tached from the rest, in a remarkable manner. Its highest points are the 
Peaks of Otter, in Botetourt county, which may be seen at a great distance ; 
one of them is remakable for its symmetry, being conical, and terminating in 
a limestone cube; the upper surface of which is scarcely sufficiently extensive 



22 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

to contain a dozen persons. It has been supposed that these beautiful peaks, 
are the highest points in the Appalachian system, S. W. of the Delaware, 
if computed from their base; but tiie White fop peaks of the Iron mountains, 
near the North Carolina line are now thought to be still more elevated. 

The diflerent portions of the state are strikingly distinguished from each 
other in their appearance. The tide-water or eastern section, is in general 
low, level, sandy, and unproductive, — in some parts exhibiting almost as de- 
solate appearance as the pnie barrens of New Jersey. Above the falls of the 
rivers, the country presents a bolder and more picturesque outline, and the 
soil if not generally productive, is in most cases capable of improvement; 
the alluvial lands on river and creek bottoms of this section are very fine; 
those on James river will compare with any in the world for fertility. The 
valley section contains a considerable portion of mountainous and sterile 
land; but no part of the commonwelth presents larger tracts of fertile and 
well cultivated soil, or better adapted to the cuUivation of every species of 
grain. 

West of the Alleghany, a large portion of the country must for ever 
remain in its primitive forest; it is generally mountainous and broken, but 
interspersed Avith fertile vallies, well calculated to grazing, and raising 
stock, and occasionally presenting rich bodies of limestone. 

From the vast extent of this state and the variety of its surface, we should 
of course expect a great diversity of climate. In the Atlantic country, east 
of the mountains, the heat of summer is long and oppressive, the spring 
short and variable, and the winter extremely mild, — snow seldom lying 
more than a day after it has fallen. Droughts in summer and autumn are 
common, and the people are subject to autumnal fevers. On the mountains, 
the air is cool, and salubrious, and the inhabitants are tall and muscular, 
with robust forms, and healthy countenances; fires are used during five 
months in the year; the heat of summer during the day is considerable, but 
the nights are always cool. On the western side of the mountain the cli- 
mate is cooler by several degrees, than on the same parallel of latitude on 
the coast : the valley of the Ohio, is exceedingly hot in summer, while in 
winter, the river is sometimes frozen for two months at a time, so hard as 
to be passed on the ice; the autumn is dry, temperate, and healthy, and the 
weather most delightful. 

From the facts which have been stated with regard to the variety of soil, 
and climate in Virginia: a corresponding variety in the staple productions 
will at once be suggested. Every vegetable, from cotton to wheat, and the 
fig to the apple, can be produced in abundance. 

When discovered and colonized by Europeans, the region now comprised 
in Virginia, was one continued dense, and vary partially broken forest. A 
few savage tribes were found along the tide-waters, but the interior Avas 
scarcely inhabited. It may be remarked that though the soil increases in fer- 
tility as we advance from the seaboard, yet density of population is in a near 
ratio to proximity to the place of original settlement, on James river If 
Ave make every just alloAvance for the space actually occupied by moun- 
tains, and other unproductive tracts, still there Avould remain at least 50,000 
square miles, capable of sustaining a mean distributive population, equal in 
number to that Avhicli occupies any of the best inhabited of its existing coun- 
ties, (for example, Henrico, including; Richmond,) such a ratio, Avould give 
Virginia more than five millions of inhabitants, — a number far beloAV the 
population she could support. 



OF VIRGINIA. 23 

The primipal Tnwns are, Richinond, the seat of government, situated at 
the falls of James river, on a site or elevation perhaps not to be surpassed 
in beauty in the United States, having an extensive view of the river, and an 
open, well cultivated, and fertile country for many miles in extent; it con- 
tains 10,()()() inhabitants: Norfolk, onEli/abeth river, which flowsinto Hamp- 
ton Koads, had in 1830, a population of 0,81(3: Petersburg and Fredericks- 
burg, at the falls of the Appomatox and Rappahannock, the first containing 
8,31JU inhabitants, and the last 3,308: Lynchburg, on James river, 120 miles 
above the falls, contains 4,630 inhabitants: Wheeling, on the Ohio, though 
only the fourth town in size and population, containing 5,21 1 inhabitants, is 
perhaps the most flourishing town in the state. Besides these — Winches- 
ter, Shepperdstown, Martinsburg, Staunton, Lexington and Fincastle, in the 
valley; Charleston, Abingdon and Brooke in the trans-Alleghany section de- 
serve to be noticed — Williamsburg in the eastern section, and the ancient 
seat of government, is on the decline, but Charlottesville, near which the 
state University is located, has rapidly improved. 

The pri/icipal Rirers flowing into the Chesapeak bay, are, the Potomac, 
Rappahannock, York and James; all of which are large and navigable. 
The Shenandoah traces its quiet course down the valley, at the base of the 
Blue Ridge, and unites with the Potomac at Harper's Ferry. The Roan- 
oke rises in the mountains, and passing into North Carolina, empties 
its waters into Albemarle sound. The Monongahela, and great Kena- 
wha are both tributaries of the Ohio. Besides these, numerous other 
streams intersect the country in every direction ; and render it inferior to [ew 
in facilities for transportation by water. The Chesapeake bay, one of the 
finest on the continent, extends 190 miles from its mouth, into the states of 
Virginia and Maryland ; it is from 7 to 20 miles broad, and generally 9 
fathoms deep. 

Geology and Mineralogy. — If we trace a line from the mouth of 
Potomac creek, through the Bowling Green and fork of the Pamunky, to 
Richmond, — thence through Petersburg and Hicksford, to the Roanoke 
near Weldon, — we shall embrace between it and the ocean, only tertiary, 
and alluvial formations. The soil contains oxides of iron, shells and marie, 
bones of sharks, whales, and other fish, carbonated wood, and other vegeta- 
ble remains. From this line to the Blue Ridge, the formation may be re- 
garded as essentially primitive; as most of the rocks are of that denomina- 
tion. In this space however, two belts of transition and secondary forma- 
tion have been found resting on the primitive rocks. One of these is the 
sand-stone and coal formation of the counties of Goochland, Powhatan, and 
Chesterfield; which is supposed to continue through the state, in a direction 
parallel to its mountains; the other, a narrow stratum of limestone, which 
has been found at the base of the South West mountains, at various points 
between the Potomac and James, and Avhich yields in several of its quaries 
beautiful marble. In this primitive region, various valuable ores and pure 
metals have been discovered, among them iron ore in masses, and layers, — 
black lead, — copper, and gold. It is now well ascertained that a formation 
in which the latter metal is frequently found, commences near the Rappa- 
hannock in the county of Spottsylvania, and inclining with the mountains 
from N E. to S. E. runs through Spottsylvania, Louisa, Fluvanna, and 
Goochland, to James river; and crossing this stream near the Point of fork, 
passes through Buckingham into North Carolina, and thence on to the 
Cherokee lands in Ticorgia. Many portions of this vein are extremely rich, 



24 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

and the purity is so extraordinary, the ore so near the surface, and the ma- 
chinery necessary for its collection so cheap, that many individuals have en- 
gaged in the search. [For a more particular discription, see the several 
counties mentioned.] The dip of the rocks in this region is usually about 45°. 

West of the Blue Ridge, the country may be considered as divided by a 
line, sometimes corresponding with the Alleghany mountains, but in gen- 
eral running east of them ; and south of the head waters of the Roanoke, 
stretching along the summits of the Bushy, Clinch, and Garden moun- 
tains. East of this line, the primifii-e rocks appear only at the tops of high 
ridges and mountains; the intervals between, and the sides of the mountains 
being in general transition, but sometimes secondary form.ations. Among 
the rocks of this region, are blue and gray limestone, slate, sandstone, gyp- 
sum, buhrstone, and conglomerate or pudding stone, — iron ore of the best 
quality is extensively distributed in this portion of the state, and valuable 
lead mines are worked in Wythe county, near Austinsville. The dip of the 
rocks is in this district less than in the primitive, but sometimes rises to 4-5°. 

West of this line described lies the great seco??//^. reformation of the state. 
The line of strata is more or less undulating, but in general nearly horizon- 
tal. This portion of the state abounds in mineral wealth. Bituminous 
coal, and iron ore are found almost every where; — ^beds of limestone are ex- 
tensively distributed, and the caverns Avhich abound in them furnish large 
quantities of nitre. The salt wells of the great Kenawha and Holston, are 
even superior to those of Onandagua, in New York ; and new springs arc 
every day developing themselves and being brought into operation, on the 
Jittle Kenawha, and in other places. When greater facilities of transpor- 
tation shall be given to this district of country, it may be confidently predic- 
ted that no portion of the United States Avill present greater rewards to in- 
dustry and enterprize. 

Mineral Waters. — The Hydro-sulphurous springs of Virginia have 
been long celebrated. Perhaps they arc surpassed in no portion of the 
■earth for efficacy, in most of the cases which result from diseased action of 
the liver, or the stomach. They are known by the appellations of the Blue 
sulphur. White sulphur, Salt and Red sulphur springs, to which have been 
recently added, the Gray sulphur; and are situated, the two former in Green- 
brier, at the foot of the western slope of the Alleghany, — and the three last 
in the county of Monroe. The Blue sulphur holds at least three active me- 
dicinal qualities in its composition; its tonic quality admirably sustains and 
husbands the debilitated system, while the alimentary canal and the glandu- 
lar organs are efficiently operated upon, by its cathartic and deobstruent 
powers. The While sulphur acts, when taken in doses of two or three 
glasses at a time, as an alterative, exercising on the system much of the 
salutary influence, Avithout the evil effects of mercury, — used in larger 
quanthics it becomes actively diaretic and purgative. The Salt sulphur is 
more remarkable than the White, for the latter property; but not equal to it 
in the former. The Red sulphur, in addition to the qualities which it has 
in common with the last mentioned springs, is remarkable for its action on 
the pulse, which it reduces considerably in a short time: this property ren- 
ders it highly valuable in pulmonary affections. The Sweet springs are 
situated on Potts' creek (a branch of James river) about 22 miles east of the 
Salt sulphur springs. They are of the class of waters called acidulous, 
and are valuable as a tonic in cases of debility, and in all the varieties of 
dyspepsia which are unaccompanied by inflammation. Their temperature is 



OF VIRGINIA. 25 

about 7S°. In the same range of mountains in which the Sweet springs are 
situated, and from 35 to 40 miles to the northeast are the thermal waters, 
known as the Warm and the Hot springs: The baths of the former are 
of the temperature of 96°, and are famed for relieving rhiunatism, and va- 
rious other complaints. The temperature of the latter, present every va- 
riety, from 51 to 107°, and are celebrated for their efficacy in cutaneous, 
rhumatic, dyspeptic, and liver complaints. Dr. Bell, in describing these 
springs observes, — all that has been performed by the Bristol, Buxton, and 
Bath waters in England, maybe safely claimed as of easy accomplishment by 
the Virginia Avaters just enumerated If to the Hot, Warm and Sweet 
springs,— We add the white, Salt, lied, and Blue Sulphur,— we may safe- 
ly challenge any district of country of the same extent in the world to pro- 
duce the same number and variety of valuable Avaters, — whether we have 
regard to their mineral impregnation or temperature, or the time in which 
they relieve entirely and permanently from a host of distressing maladies. 

Besides the above waters, there are various others of more or less value in 
Virginia. The springs at Bath, in Berkely county, have similar properties 
with the Sweet springs, and a temperature somewhat higher. In Botetourt, 
Montgomery, and Augusta there are also Hydro-sulphurous waters, similar 
in character to those in Greenbrier and Monroe, but of less efficacy. [See 
in the several counties named, a more particular description of these 
springs.] It is astonishing that these waters should, as long as their value 
has been known, never have been accurately analyzed; until the summer of 
1834, Professor Rogers of William and Mary college analyzed the Warm 
spring water, the result of which may be seen under the head of Bath 
county. 

Scenery and Natural Curiosities. — The scenery of Virginia is in 
general highly picturesque. Without possessing the combination of high- 
land and water prospect, which gives such a charm to the shores of the 
Hudson, or the soft lake scenery of the interior of New York; she surpas- 
ses even that .state in the beavity of her vallies, and the grandeur of her 
mountains. The James and Kanawha vallies, offer at many points, in the 
bold outlines of their hills, and their broad and fertile low^-lands, images 
which remind the traveller of the rich scenery of the Loire and the Garonne, 
The mountains of the state are strikingly distinguished, not only by an 
ever-varying succession of hill and dale, but by the beauty of their covering; 
their vigorous growth of oak, chesnut and lynn, contrasting advantagiously 
with the mountain districts of the northern and eastern states. 

The Curiosities of Virginia, present to the traveller, objects of yet deeper 
interest than her scenery. Among them may be enumerated: — the pas- 
sage of the Potomac, through the Blue Ridge, so happily described by Mr. 
Jefferson, — that of James river through the same mountain; — the cliffs of 
New river, which present for a distance of 20 miles, a succession of sublime 
scenery — rivalled in our country only by that of Niagara, between the falls 
and Q,ueenstown: — the celebrated Natural Bridge of Rockbridge, and the na- 
tural Tunnell of Scott county, "the most sublime of nature's works," — the va- 
rious medicinal springs already noticed: — and the burning springs of Kan- 
awha. The blowing cave at the Panther's Gap in Rockbridge, admits per- 
petually a strong current of air. Other extensive and beautiful caverns ex- 
ist in the limestone districts of the state; of the latter, two surpass the rest in 
beauty and interest, — the one called Weyer'scave, from its discoverer, — the 
other Allen's cave,— the former is situated in Augusta, near the little vil- 
4 



26 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

iage of Port Republic,— the latter is situated in Shenandoah county, a short 
distance from Front Royall, on the right bank of the Shenandoah, about a 
quarter of a mile from the river, and is said to surpass Weyer's m the gran- 
deur and beauty of its chambers. The description given by Goldsmith of 
the grotto of Antiparos seems almost literally to apply to these mtere5.ting 
works of nature; Weyer's cave penetrates to a distance of 2700 feet; and 
Aliens 1200;presentiiig a series of lofty passages, and spacious apartments, 
encrusted with chrystals, and glittering with beautiful stalactites; ex- 
hibiting some of nature's wildest and most beautiful fantasies. We feel m 
traversing these magnificient apartments, as if we were visiting some of those 
enchanted palaces in which of old the Knights of chivalry were spell- 
bound, or gazing on the bright visions, and revelling in the beautiful 
scenes conjured up by the magic of eastern fancy. A cave on Jackson's 
river, near Covington, is said to be much more extensive and intricate than 
those mentioned, but not so beautiful. In Montgomery county on the north 
bank of New river, H miles from Newborn, is situated what is called the 
Glass Windoivs ; a great curiosity, which presents the spectator with a scene 
almost as magnificient as the natural bridge. The Falling Water, in Berkely 
county, and Falling Spring, in Bath, are two beautiful cataracts, — _the first 
is situated on the bank of the Potomac, 6 miles north east from Martinsburg, 
andfallsovera large alluvial rock, which rises 200 feet above the surface of 
the river- — the latter rises in the Warm Spring mountains, about 20 miles 
south west of the Warm springs, and about three quarters of a mile from its 
source, falls over a rock more than 200 feet above the valley below. The 
ebbing and flowing springs of Bath and W^ashington counties, may be men- 
tioned as great natural curiosities, — the former situated in the valley of the 
Cow Pasture river, 16 miles northeast of the W^arm springs; it ebbs and 
flows to a remarkable extent — affording when the tide is full, sufficient wa- 
ter for a gristmill, — when at ebb, only supplying a tanyard and a distillery; 
the water is of the purest and best quality, and equal in the hottest seasons to 
the temperature of ice-water. The Ice-mountain and Ice-cave, in Hamsphire 
county are very remarkable. On the north west side of the mountain, the 
surface is covered with loose stones, which being removed to the depth of 
three feet, an abundance of ice may be found at all seasons of the year. 
The Ice Cave, is situated near the top of a hill, nearly 1000 feet high — af- 
fords an abundant supply of excellent ice throughout the year. The most 
remarkable cataract in the State, is the Falling Spring, in Alleghany coun- 
ty. The stream has sufficient power, a few yards from its source, to turn a 
mill wheel, and about a mile below, it has a perpendicular descent of 200 
feet, over a precipice of calcareous rock ; before it reaches the bottom, it is al- 
most converted into vapour, and the temperature is considerably reduced; 
the stream unites with Jackson's river, about a mile below the cataract. 
The Salt Pond lake, in Giles' county, not having been described in any ac- 
count of the state, deserves to be noticed. It presents the curious spectacle 
of a beautiful sheet of water, about three miles in circumference, and a 100 
fathoms deep, on the summit of a lofty mountain. Some of the aged people 
in the neighborhood, remember when its boUom was a spot of marshy 
■ground, covered with pine and oak timber, and much frequented by deer 
and elk in pursuit, as was supposed, of salt. In proceiis of time, a small 
pond was formed in the centre, — encreasing slowly at first, untill a stream 
which flowed out high on the mountain, suddenly ceased, and then rapidly 
rising above the tops of the trees, and finally to the top of the mountain, 



OF VIRGINIA. 27 

wliioh it overflows at an ang^le below the general level. The water is en- 
tirely fresh, and abouiuls with lizards, but has no fish, The idea which 
prevails of its alternate rise and falT is erroneous; it is 3700 feet above the 
Ocean. 

Lake Drumniond, in the Dismal Swamp, is about 7 miles in extent, and 
varies from 10 to 20 feet deep; it is about 24 feet above tide water; and in 
times of drouirht, the only feeder to the Dismal Smamp canal. Its waters 
are cool, and strony;ly impregnated with juniper; but pleasent to drink. Our 
limits will not permit us to notice the carved or calico rock of Kanawha, 
and various other cnriositie-s of the state, which merit de.scription: but some 
account of them will be found in the several counties in which they are lo 
cated. * 

MOUNTAINS. 

Having taken a general survey of the whole of Virginia, wc will now 
give a more particular description of her mountain ranges, and the courses 
of her streams. Our mountains are not scattered confusedly in groups, or 
in solitude over the surface of the country; but are disposed in massive rid- 
ges, commencing about 180 miles from the coa.st, and running parallel with 
it; in a S. W. direction. The first continuous chain derives its name from 
the deep blue colour by which it is distinguished. The North Mountains 
are from 20 to 30 miles farther west; and these are succeeded by the great 
Appalachian or Alleghany range, which divides the eastern and Avestern 
waters. The Appalachian system presents its widest base in Virginia, and 
if we include its various lateral ridges, occupies a superficies of nearly one 
hundred miles in breadth, nearly all of which is covered with mountains 
and vallies. In the same direction generally are the veins of limestone, 
coal, and other minerals; and the falls of the rivers. James and Potomac 
rivers penetrate through all the ranges east of the Alleghany; — that is bro- 
ken by no water course, and is in fact the spine of the country between the 
Atlantic on one side, and the Mississippi, and St. Lawrence on the other. 
The passage of the Potomac through the Blue Ridge has been said to be 
perhaps one of the most stupendous scenes in nature. You stand on a ve- 
ry high point of land, — on your right comes the Shenandoah, having 

* Note.— The following intcreslinsr letter, on the mineral \yealth of Virginia, was ad- 
dre.ssed to the Hon. John Flovd, whilst Govenor ofVirginia. 

" I have recently returned from a geological excursion in Virginia. I entered t^e 
state near the head waters of the Potomac, "passed thence to Winchester, followed the 
course of that fine Valley to the Natural Bridge; retracting my steps, I turned west- 
M-ardly at Staunton, crossed the mountain at Jennings' Gap, and visited the justly 
celebrated medicinal springs in that region; returning, I went from Staunton through 
Charlottesville to Richmond, and down the James to its mouth. When tins tour is 
taken in connection with a former visit to Wheeling, it will be conceded that 1 have 
seen enough of the state to enable me to form a rough estimate of its geological and 
mineralogical importance: and I do assure von sir, that although my anticipations 
were far from being meagre, I was astonished at the vastncss and variety of interes- 
ting objects in that department of natural history, that were constantly developing 
themselves, inviting the mind of man to reflection, and his hand to industry, and dis- 
playing at every .step the wisdom and beniftcence of the Great Creater. 

I determined upon respectfully suggesting to your excellency, the expediency of a 
topographical, geological, mineralogical, and orgetological survey ot Virginia. 
S'lould the enliglitened representatives of the freemen of your state concur in IJiis 
opinion, it will redound to the honor of all concerned, by the encouragement il will 
give to the study of the natural sciences— by the enhancement in the value ot land 
in the interior, thereby enriching the state and its citizens, and giving a very proper 



28 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

ranged along the foot of the mountains for a 100 miles in search of a vent,— - 
on your left approaches the Potomac, also in quest of a passage; — at the 
moment of their junction they rush together through the mountain and pass 
to the sea. The first glance of the scene hurries us into the belief that the 
mountains were created before the rivers, that in this place the latter were 
dammed up by the former, and made a lake, which covered a considerable 
portion of the valley, — that continuing to rise, they at length burst through 
at the spot, and tore asunder the mountain from its summit to its base. The 

check to unnatural migrations to the extreme west — by bringmg to light and useful- 
ness innumerable valuable crude materials, — thereby not only enlarging the field of 
manul'actures and the useful arts, but furnishing carrying for the canals and roads 
already constructed, and assisting in new internal improvements in locations of equal 
importance. That I may not appear to be too enthusiastic, pardon me for pointing 
out some of the most obvious features in the geology of Virginia. Whether we con- 
sider the comfort and convenience of our species, or the industry and prosperity of a 
state, there is no mineral production that can outvie in importance with that of coal. 
In this country, where we have hitherto always had a superabundance of fuel, owing 
to the vast extent of our natural forests, the importance of a constant and abundant 
supply is not felt, and we are too apt to neglect properly to appreciate its value j 
but it is not so elsewhere — and a moment's reflection will shew that it ought not to be 
so here. Without fuel, of what use would be to us the metallic ores'? For instance 
iron, which is now moulted, drawn and worked into thousands and tens of thousands 
of useful instruments, from a knife, to the complicated machinery of a steam ingine, 
would forever remain an indissoluble and useless mass of matter without the aid of 
fuel. Even the steam engine itself, that colossus of modern machinery, without the 
assistance of fire would be inactive and impotent. 

Where is the state in this Union"? I might perhaps safely ask, where is the country 
in the world, that can surpass Virginia in the variety of position and abundance of 
supply of this valuable combustible'? She possesses, not only in common with her 
sister states, a liberal quantity of bituminous coal in her western and carbonaceous 
regions — where, according to geological calculations, bituminous coal might be rea- 
sonably expected to be found ; but in the eastern division of the state, within a few 
miles of the tidewater of a majestic stream which empties its ample waters into the 
Atlantic Ocean — in a geological position where bituminous coal never would have 
been sought after, because bituminous coal could not there have ever been expected 
to have been found, bituminous coal of a good quality, and apparently in great abun- 
dance has been found ;— nature seeming, as it were, in this instance, to enable her to 
favor an otherwise highly favored land— to have defined all her oAvn rules, and baf- 
fled the skill of the gravest geologist, by depositing bituminous coal upon the naked 
and barren bosom of the imcarbonaceous granite ! I have often wondered why this 
anomaly did not strike the capacious and highly gifted mind of Jeflerson ; and why 
he, or some other of the many reflecting men of Virginia, was not led by it to inquire 
•what else there might be in store for the good people of that state "? By neglecting to seek 
for them, we ungratfully reject the profi~ered kindness of our Greater; the laws of 
inanimate matter are, in this respect, in unision with those that govern animated na- 
ture : we are furnished with the material and means, but in order to stimulate us to 
useful and healthful industry, we must labor in their appropriation. God gives us 
the earth and the seed, but we must plough and sow, or we can never reap; so he has 
bountifully placed within our reach innumerable valuable rocks, minerals and com- 
bustibles; but to enjoy them, we must delve into the bowels of the earth— and having 
found them, we must by various laborious processes render them fit for our use To 
those who are accustomed to regard these things, it is difficult to determine which 
causes the most painful sensations, to observe how few coal mines, in comparison to 
what might be, are opened in the neighborhood of Richmond ; or the want of skill ex- 
hibited in the selection and working of those recently opened. Nor is the deposite of 
the bituminous coal upon the granite, the only geological anomaly of this quarter 
Proceeding from Charlottesville towards Richmond, almost immediately after you 
leave the talcose formation of the Blue Ridge, you are astonished at the fertility of 
the soil. You can scarcely persuade your.self that you are travelling over a countrv 



OF VIRGINIA. 29 

piles of rock on each side, but especially on that of the Shenandoah, bear 
evident marks of rapture and avulsion from their beds, by some powerful 
force. The distant finishing which nature has given to the picture is of a 
very different character ; and a perfect contrast to the fore-ground. The 
former is as placid and delightful as the latter is wild and tremendous. 
You see through tiie rough and horrid cleft, a clear and beautiful view of 
level and fertile country, bounded only by the limits of human vision. 

The height of our mountains has not yet been estimated with any degree 
of exactness. There is no doubt but the Alleghany, as it is the dividing 
ridge for the waters, is more elevated above the ocean than the rest; but its 
relative height, estimated from the base on which it stands, will not com- 

your surpri.se is not a liUle increased upon di.scovering that this brick-red covering 
owes its existence to the disintegration of a rock whicli, in most other places, is ex- 
ceedingly slow to decompose — and which, when decompo.sed, forms a cold and in- 
hospitable soil. It is the hornblende sienite. Here it is surcharged with iron, which 
oxidating by exposure to the atmosphere and moisture, the rock freely disintegrates, 
and the oxide of iron being set at liberty, imparts its coloring to the ground, and fer- 
tilizes the soil in an extraordinary degree. 

Next in geological and statistical importance, I would place the mineral springs of 
Virginia; and those would form a legitimate subject ot investigation to those who 
should be appointed to conduct a geological survey. 

1 am not aware of any portion of country of the same extent, possessing an equal 
number and variety of mineral springs as the counties of Bath, Greenbrier and Mon- 
roe. This is a subject upon which one might easily compose a book; but I must 
contine myself to a few lines. The waters are thermal and cold; the former of va- 
rious degrees of intensity. They hold in solution a variety of metals, earths, acids, 
and alkalies, combined in various proportions, and suited to relieve the sufferingsof in- 
valids from a number of diseases. Mineral springs of less interest than these have 
excited the attention of the learned in almost every age and country; and Virginia 
owes it to her high mental standing, independently of every other consideration, to 
assist the cause of science by investigating the causes of the high temperature, and 
making accurate analysis of these valuable waters. It is the duty of states, as it is of 
individuals, to furnish their quota to the general stock of information ; and this ispe] 
culiarly the duty of a republican state, whose happiness, nay, whose very political ex- 
istence dependsupon an improved state of the minds of its citizens. Mr. John Ma- 
son Good, in his "Book of Nature," after describing the barren state of society in the 
middle ages, says: "We have thus rapidly travelled over a wide and dreary desert,^ 
that like the sandy wastes of Africa, has seldom been found refreshed by spots of 
verdure; and what is the moral ] That ignorance is ever associated with wretched- 
ness and vice, and knowledge with happiness and virtue. Their connections are in- 
dissoluble ; they are woven in the very texture of things, and constitute the only sub- 
stantial difference between man and man," and I would add between state and .state. 

Has the heat of these waters any connexion with volcanic phenomenal or is the 
temperature entirely chemical, originating in the decomposition of .sulphuret of iron, 
as 1 suggested some years ago, in a paper published upon the subject 1 At the Hot 
Springs, the hot sulphur water and the cold pure water issue out of the calcareous 
rock at the base of the Warm Spring mountain, within a few feet of each other. 
One of these Virginia springs makes a copious deposite of calcareous tufa; and at 
another, you perceive newly formed chrystals of sulphate of iron. The White Sul- 
phur Spring takes its name from a rich white deposite, and the Red Sulphur /rom 
one of that color. If this is not an uncommon and a highly interesting section of 
country, calling aloud for investigation, and meriting legislative inteference, then 
have I taken an entirely erroneous view of the subject. 

The Warm Spring mountain is white sandstone. The rocks of the Valley of the 
Hot Springs are calcareous, argillaceous and siliceous. They are all nearly vertical. 
At first the two former, and afterwards the two latter alternate. They have all been 
deposited in a horizontal position, and between their narrow strata are thin layers ot 
clay, covering organic remains. * * * * * * 

The mountain ranges of Virginia are more numerous, and the Valleys consequent- 
ly narrower than they are in Pennsylvania; but some of them are very interesting. 
The great Valley, as h is sometimes called, or par excellence, the Valleij, situate be- 



30 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

pave withthatof some of its kindred ranges; — the country rising a consider- 
able step behind each range. It has been before stated that the Peaks of 
Otter, in the Bhie Ridge, Avere supposed until lately to be the highest points 
measured from their base, in North America ; but it has since been ascer- 
tained that the White Top Peaks of the Iron mountains are still more ele- 
vated. The highest peak of the latter is only about 4,2(30 feet aboA'e the 
Atlantic ocean, — which is not one fifth part of the height of the mountains 
of South America, or one third of the height Avhich would be necessary in 
our latitude, to preserve ice unmelted in the open air throughout the year. 
The range of mountains next beyond the Blue Ridge, Avhich we call the 
North Mountain, received the name of Endless mountain from the Indians, 
on account of its great extent. 

Alleghany mountain of the Appalachian system. It is an unanswera- 
ble objection to giving the name of Alleghany to the whole system, that it 
has been appropriated to a particular chain in Pennsylvania, Maryland and 
Virginia. From the basin of the Kanawha, to that of the western branch 
of the Susquehannah, through 4° of latitude, the Alleghany is a dividing 
ridge between the waters flowing into the Atlantic, from those of the Ohio, 
giving source, eastward to the branches of James river and the Potomac 
and on the other side, or weastward to those of the Kanawha, Monongahe- 
la, Youghioghany and Kiskiminitas. The ridges which form the particu- 
lar chain of the Alleghany, are not very distinctly defined, though the en- 
tire chain constitutes so remarkable a feature in the geography of the United 
States. The length of the Alleghany is, from Monroe county, in Virginia, 
in the valley of the Kanawha, to Centre county, in Pennsylvania, in the val- 
ley of Susquehannah, 300 miles. The height varies, but may be stated at 

tween the Blue Ridge and the North and Alleghany mountain, is by far the most ex- 
tensive. The rocks often obtrude, rendering the soil rather scanty — but nevertheless 
this is a fine district of countr}'. 

I could find no fossils in this rock. In regard to the metallic ores I would observe, 
that I discovered suflicicnt indications of their existing in Virginia in quantit)' suffi- 
cient to justify a more accurate examination. Irt)n abounds in almost every part of 
the western section of the state; traces of copper, lead, manganese and chrome, have 
also been discovered near the Blue Rridge; and the gold of Orange county is equal 
to any found in the Carolinas or Georgia. 

1 have never seen any thing tliat exceeds the richness and variety of coloring of the 
serpentine of the Blue Ridge. This mineral is easily cut, and the fineness and close- 
ness of the grain render it susceptible of a high polish: at Zoblitz, in Saxony, several 
hundred persons are employed in its manufacture. Besides the minerals belonging 
to the talcose formation, and generally accompanying serpentine, are many of them 
valuable in the arts; for instance, steatite (soap stone,) talc, chromate of iron, clorite 
of slate, and native magnesia. A geological survey would most probably lead to the 
iiiscovery of most of these minerals. 

I could make large additions to this communication, but for the fear of traspassing 
upon your patience. I will therefore close my observations with noticing two instan- 
ces of a want of confidence in the mineral productions of your own state, which I am 
persuaded tliat a geological survey would tend to correct. I met many wagons loa- 
ded with sulphate of lime (gypsum) from Nova Scotia, being taken to the interior to 
be used as a manure; but I "did not see one wagon employed to bring carbonate of 
lime (common lime stone) from the inexhaustible quarries of the great Valley to any 
other district to be used for the same purpose. In the beautiful and flourishing city of 
Richmond, I ob.served the fronts of two stores fitting up in the new and fashionable 
style with granite (so called) (sienite) from Ma.ssachusetts, while there exists in the 
James river and on its banks, in the immediate vicinity of the town, rocks of a supe- 
rior quality, in quantities amply suflicient to build a dozen cities. 

I have the honor to be, sir, vour most obedient servcnt, 

PETER A. BROWNE. 



OF VIRGINIA. 3i 

2500 frot, as a mean. Similar to all other chains of the Appalachian system, 
that of Alleirhany does not rise into peaks, but stretche.s in parallel ri(l<^es, 
wliich, to the view from either side, presents n^entle rounded, and swelling 
knolls, or eleiifantly defined lines, which bound tlie distant horizon. The 
component material of the Alleghany, is mostly graywake, though limestone 
and other rocks occasionally occur. This chain is rich in iron and bitumi- 
nous coal. Some ridges have naked sunnnits, but this feature is rare, the 
ridges generally being clothed with timber in all their height. A few 
mountain planes with tolerable soil for agriculture occur, but mostly the soil 
is rocky and barren, and often marshy. Pine and oak the most abundant 
timber. 

Appalachian System. — The name given to the immense chain extend- 
ing along the whole Atlantic course of the United States, from Alabama to 
Maine. In the southern states they are 200 miles from the sea, but to the 
north they approach near the coast. They run generally in parallel ridges, 
and the various divisions go by difTerent names. In Tennessee they are 
called the Cumberland Mountains, — in Virginia — Blue Ridge, — in Penn- 
sylvania the Alleghany and Laurel Mountains, — in New York, — the Cats- 
kill, — in Vermont the Green Mountains, and in New Hampshire, — the 
White Mountains. They are sometimes broken into groups and isolated 
chains. Their highest summits are in New Hampshire, and between 6 
and 7000 feet above the Jevel of the sea. East of the Hudson they are of 
granite formation. In the west and south they consist of granite, gneis, mi- 
ca, clay-3tate, primitive limestone, &c. 

Blue Mountain. — This undistinguishing term has been applied to seve- 
ral chains of the Appalachian system in the United States, but more particu- 
larly to that one called by some tribes of Indians "Kaatatin Chunk," or 
Endless Mountain. If we turn our attention to the Appalachian chain we 
find them often only interrupted, where a cursory survey would lead us to 
place a termination. Whether the Kitlatinny Chain or "Blue Mountain" 
could be detected eastward from the Hudson we are unprepared to deter- 
mine, but westward of that river, this chain is found distinct in the Shawan- 
gunk, near Kingston, in Ulster county. New York. It thence ranges 
S. W., meets and turns Delaware river at the extreme northern angle of New 
Jersej', and continues its original direction to the Delaware Water Gap, 
where the mountain chain is traversed by the river, and the former curves 
more to the westward, enters Pennsylvania, over which it ranges about 150 
miles to the northern angle of Franklin county, after having been pierced 
by the Lehigh, Schuylkill, and Susquehannah rivers. Between Franklin 
and Bedford counties the Kittatinny reassumes nearly its original direction in 
the state of New York, and though in some places confounded with the Alle- 
ghany, really continues a distinct chain over Maryland, Virginia, North Ca- 
rolina and Tennessee, into Alabama, S. W. of Susquehannah, the Kitta- 
tinny rises, and extending first nearly west, between the tributaries of Core- 
dogwinetand Shoreman's rivers, is thence broken into ridges bounding on 
the west, the valley of Conecocheague, gradually curves to the southward, 
and reaches Potomac, extending very little west of south. Rising again 
beyond the Potomac, between the Opequan and Black creeks, it runs near- 
ly' parallel with the Blue Ridge, is passed by the North Fork of Shenan- 
doah, and extends thence between the two main branches of that river. 
Though scarcely appearing distinctly on our best maps, the chain of Kit- 
tatinny is completely distinct, and continues over Rockingham, Augusta 



32 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

and Roclcbfidge counties, Virginia, into Botetourt, to where it is traversed 
by James river, below the mouth of Craig's creek. Rising again beyond 
James river, the chain stretches along the higher sources of James and 
Roanoke rivers, to the centre of Montgomery county, near Christiansburg. 
Here it leaves the Atlantic slope, and merges into the valley of the Ohio, 
by entering the subvalley of New river or Upper Kanawha. 

Thus far, in all its range from the Hudson, the Kittatinny chain is bro- 
ken into links by the higher sources of the Atlantic rivers, and similar to the 
Southeast Mountain and Blue Ridge, the base gradually rises, ascending 
the vast inclined plain obliquely, until it reaches the highest apex between 
the sources of Roanoke and those of Little river branch of New river. In 
this region the lowest gap through which measurements have been made 
for a projected canal, is 2049 feet above the level of the Atlantic ocean. 
The base of the chain now commences to depress and inflecting to a course 
considerably Avest of S. W., is traversed by Ncav river or Upper Kanawha. 
Beyond the latter stream, under the Local name of Iron Mountain, and dis- 
charging to the eastward the tributaries of New river, and from the oppo- 
site flank those of the south branch of Holston and Watauga, it reaches the 
extreme N. E. angle of the Tennessee. At the latter point, the chain as- 
sumes a direction very nearly S. W., and under the various local names of 
Iron Mountain, Bald Mountain, Smoky Mountain and Unika Mountain, is 
pierced in succession by Watuga, Doe, Nolechucky, French, Broad, Big, 
Pigeon, Tennessee, Proper and Hiwasse rivers, and merges according to 
Tanner's map of the United States, into Blue Ridge, in the northern part of 
Georgia, between the sources of Coosa and Hiwassee rivers. 

If the whole body of the Kittatinny and its mean elevation is compared 
with the body and elevation of the Blue Rridge, the former exceeds in both 
respects, from the Hudson to their termination in Georgia, though at the 
high lands on the Hudson and in the Peaks of Otter, the Blue Ridge rises 
to a superior elvevation from their respective bases. 

As a distinct and defined chain the Kittatinny is upwards of eight hun- 
dred miles in length. The height above the ocean varies from 800 to 
2,500 feet. All the ridges in their natural state w^ere Avooded to their sum- 
mits, though the trees are generally stunted in growth at any considerable 
height. In the vallies along both flanks the timber is often very laro-e and 
lofty; particularly the pines, oaks, hemlocks and liriodendron. On some of 
ihe ridges good arable soil is found on the summits, but sterility is the gene- 
ral character of the soil. Amongst the peculiar features of this chain, one 
may be remarked, which gives it a very distinct character. In all its 
length, it is no Avhere strictly a dividing limit between river sources. 
Without assuming any connexion with the mountains eastward of the Hud- 
son, the Kittatinny is pierced by the Delaware, Lehigh, Schuylkill, Sus- 
quehannah, Potomac and James rivers, floAving into the Atlantic ocean, 
and by the Great Kanawha, and various branches of Tennessee, floAving in- 
to the valley of the Ohio, or basin of the Mississippi. 

Blue Ridge.. — Of the distinctive chains of the Appalachian system, and 
mdeed of all the sections of this system, the Blue Ridge stands inost apart 
and prominent, though of much narroAver base, and of less mean elevation 
than either the Kittatinny or Alleghany. On a colored map of Virginia 
the Blue Ridge has a very striking appearance, arising from the fact of 
being a county limit in all its range over that state. Without tracing a 
probable but hypothetical identity, betAveen the mountains of Massachusetts, 



OF VIRGINIA. 33 

Connecticut anil Vermont, with the Blue Ridge, we first meet this chain 
distinct at West Point on the Hudson river. Thence it rises into broken 
but continuous ridges over New York and New Jersey, to the Delaware, in 
a S. W. direction. Traversed by the Delaware immediately below the in- 
flux of Lehigh, and inflecting similar to the Jvittatinny, to S. W. by W., it 
is pierced by the Schuylkill at Reading, by the Suscjuehannah below the 
mouth of Swatara, by the Potomac at Harper's Ferry, by James river, be- 
tween Bedford and Amherst couniies, Virginia, and by the Roanoke be- 
tween Bedford and Franklin couiuies in the same state. In its further 
progress S. \V. from Roanoke, the Blue Ridge becomes the limit of river 
source to its final extinction in Alabama. Tlu^ length of this chain from the 
Hudson to Roanoke, is 4.3U miles, and from Roanoke to where it ceases to be 
a distinct chain in Alabama, 3.10 miles, having an entire length of 800 miles 
S. W. from the Hudson. The Hudson does not, however, terminate the 
Blue Ridge to the N. E. Many river passages through mountains have 
been noticed and celebrated, and, among others, the passage of this chain 
by the Potomac at Harper's Ferry; but it may be doubted whether from all 
the attendent circumstances, any similar phenomenon on earth combines so 
many very remarkable features as the passage of the tide stream of the Hud- 
son through the two chains, the S. E. Mountain and Blue Ridge. 

Profoundly deep, for below the utmost draught of the largest vessels of 
war, the flux and reflux of the tides rush along a narrow and tortuous chan- 
nel, on both sides bounded by enormous craggy and almost perpendicular 
walls of rock, rising from one thousand to twelve or fifteen hundred feet 
above the water surface. Sailing along this astonishing gorge the mind in- 
voluntarily demands by what operation of nature has this complication of 
wonders been produced? Again, what in an eminent degree enhances the 
surprise and admiration, is the fact, that this great river pass is made direct- 
ly through a mountain nucleus In all the chains of the Appalachian sys- 
tem, masses rise at diflerent places, far beyond the ordinary height, and 
spreading much wider than the mean base of the chain in which they occur. 
The Peaks of Otter — the Peaks in the Catsbergs, in Windham, Green 
county. New York, several peaks of the Green mountains in Vermont, 
and above all, the White mountains of New Hampshire, are examples. 
The Highlands, pierced by the Hudson, and passed by the tide from the ocean, 
are however, every thing considered, by much the most remarkable of these 
mountain peaks or groups to be found, not only in the United States, but 
probably on this planet. Receding from the highlands, either to the S. W. 
or N. E. the chain depresses so much, that on our maps, the continuity in ei- 
ther direction, is generally not represented. There is, nevertheless, in the 
vicinity of the Hudson, no real interruption of either the South Mountains, 
or Blue Ridge, along their direction. The highest peaks being in the Blue 
Ridge on both sides of the river. Of these peaks, the highest is Butter Hill, 
which rises 1,535 feet above the ocean tides, and rising abruptly from the 
water, aflTords a very fine and extended landscape to the N. W. and W. 

After leaving the' Hudson, Blue Ridge continues to N. E. about 20 miles, 
and then, similar to other chains of the same system on both sides of that 
river, rapidly inflects to a course a very little north of east, a direction 
which it maintains above 250 miles in the states of New York, Massachusetts 
and Vermont. For the first 70 miles of its northerly course, the Blue 
Ridge discharges from its eastern flank numerous branches of Housatonic, 
and "from the opposing slope, Fishkill, Wappingers, Jansen's or Ancram 
5 



34 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

and Kinderhook creeks, flowing westward into the Hudson. With the 
sources ofHousatonic and Hoosack rivers, the features of Bkie ]\idge change ; 
hitherto from the Hudson, a line of river sources, it now looses that charac- 
ter, and is broken into innumerable ridges by the higher sources of Hoosack 
and Batten Kill, flowing into the Hudson, and thence by those of Paulet, 
Otter, Onion, La Moille and Missisque rivers, falling into lake Champlain. 
All these latter streams rise in the S. E. mountain, and flowing down a 
Avestern slope pass the Blue Ridge. 

A hypothesis may be hazarded, that what is designated Green mountains 
in the sourthern part of Vermont, and the ridge or series of ridges, known by 
the same term in the northern part of the same state, are fragments of two 
separate chains, though generally represented as the continimtion of one 
and the same chain. Regarding the great Avestern chain, east of the Hud- 
son, in the state of New York, Massachusetts and Vermont, as the continua- 
tion of Blue Ridge, the whole length of the chain in the United States, ex- 
ceeds 1,0U0 miles. In relative elevation, the Blue Ridge is humble, though 
in one part, Bedford county, Virginia, the peaks of Otter rise to 4,200 feet 
above tide water. Generally, the ridges are from ?00 to 1,000 feet above 
their bases, and the base rising wath the mountain, when the ridges are 
seen from the elevated table land, from which flow Roanoke, Kanawha, 
Yadkin and Tennessee, they are, in fact, less imposing than when seen from 
the Hudson, Delaware, Susquehannah, Potomac or James rivers, though at 
the former region, the real oceanic elevation is more than double what 
it is near the more northern rivers. 

From its prominence, and southAvestwardly from the Hudson, its isola- 
tion. Blue Ridge has been, though very erroneously, regarded and delineated 
as the extreme southeastern chain of the system ; in reality, however, it is 
the third distinct chain advancing from the Atlantic ocean. 

Cumberland Mountain is a chain of the Appalachian system, and 
continues under this name through Virginia, Kentucky, Tennessee and 
part of Alabama; Avhilst it is known in Pennsylvania as the Laurel chain. 
This mountain though not so delineated on our maps, is continuous from 
Steuben county, in New York, to Jackson, Morgan and Blunt counties in 
Alabama, — along an inflected line of 800 miles. About the extreme eastern 
angle of Kentucky, and S. W. of the Great Sand)^ this chain becomes dis- 
tinctly known as the Cumberland mountain, and ranging S. W. seperates 
Virginia from Kentucky; as far as Cumberland Gap, on the northern boun- 
dary of Tennessee: continuing S. W., but with an inflection to the N. W. 
this chain stretches over Tennessee, — dividing in its course the waters of 
the Cumberland from those of Tennessee river: entering Alabama, and 
crossing Tennessee river at its great bend, it gradually disappears among 
the sources of the Black Warrior river. The Cumberland chain is in no 
part very elevated, — ranging from 800 to 1,000 feet above the level of the 
tide; but though humble as to relative height, it maintains otherwise all the 
distinctive characters of the other Appalachian chains; extending in long, 
regular and often lateral ridges, passable only at long intervals where gaps 
occur, or where it is traversed by rivers. The ridges are wooded to the 
summit. 

KiTTATiXNY Mountains, an extensive and important chain of the Ap- 
pa.lachian system. In Pennsylvania the Kittatinny is very definite, and 
with an intervening vaHey between their ranges, parallel to the Blue Ridge. 
It is tlie same chain, however, which first becomes definite in the state of 



OF VIUCilNIA. 35 

New York, west of the Hudson, and there known as the Shawangunk, and 
extending' S. W. over the upper part of New Jersey, enters Pennsylvania 
at the Delaware Water gap. Thence inflecting to W. S. W., is traversed 
by the Lehigh at the Lehigh Water gap, by the Schuylkill above Ham- 
burg, and by the Susquehannah, five miles above Harrisburg. From the 
latter point the chain again inflects still more to the westward, between Cum- 
berland and Perry counties. At the western cxtvemhy of those two coun- 
ties, the chain abruptly bends to a nearly southern course, between Frank- 
lin and Bedford counties, enters Maryland, by the name of Cove moun- 
tain, being traversed by the Potomac river, between Williamsport and 
Hancockstown, and stretches into Virginia, as the Great North moimtains, 
over Virginia, from the Potomac to James river, between Rockbridge and 
Alleghany counties. This chain though broken, remains distinct; a simi- 
lar character prevails from James river to New river, between Wythe and 
Grayson counties. After being traversed by New river, the chain again 
assumes complete distinctness, leaves Virginia, and under the local name of 
Iron mountains. Bald mountains, Smoky mountains and Unika mountains, 
separates North Carolina and Tennessee, to the Unika turnpike on the 
western border of Macon county, of the former state. Thence continuing a 
little W. of S. W., crosses the N. W. angle of Georgia, enters Alabama, 
and separating the sources of the creeks of Middle Tennessee river, from 
those of Coosa, merges into the hills from which rise the numerous 
branches of Tuscaloosa, 

Thus, defectively as the Kittatinny, called expressly by the Indians Ka- 
taatin Chunk, or the Endless mountains, are delineated on our maps, it is 
iii nature a prominent and individual chain, from N. lat. 34° 31' to 41° 30', 
and 2° 45' E. to 10° W. long., Washington citv. Ranq-ing throuarh 7° of lat. 
and almost 13° of long., stretching along a space exceeding 900 statute miles, 
and varying in distance from the Blue Ridge, between 15 to 25 miles, gen- 
erally about 20, though in some places the two chains approach, as at Har- 
risburg, to within less than 10 miles from each other. In relative height the 
Kittatinny exceeds the Blue Ridge, but as regards the plain or table land 
on which they both stand, it rises gradually from tide water in Hudson 
river, to an elevation of 2,500 feet in Ashe county, of North Carolina. From 
James river to the Hudson, the chain ranges along the Atlantic slope, and 
is broken by streams flowing through it on their course towards the Atlan- 
tic ocean, but passing the higher valley of James river, the Kittatinny winds 
over the real dividing line of the waters, and is thence traversed by New 
river, Watauga, Nolechucky, French Broad and Tennessee rivers. 

KiTTATiNXY Valley, in the most extended sense of theterm, is in length 
commensurate with the mountain chain from which the name is derived; 
it therefore extends from Hudson river to the northern part of Alabama, vary- 
ing in width from eight to 25 miles, with generally a substratum of limestone 
towards Blue Ridge, and of clay slate on the side of the Kittatinny. Some of 
the most flourishing agricultural districts of the United States, are included 
in this physical section. The county of Orange, in New York, Sussex and 
Warren, in New Jersey, are nearly all comprised within its limits. In 
Pennsylvania it embraces the greater part of the lower section of Northamp- 
ton; nearly all Lehigh, Berks and Lebanon, the lower part of Dauphin, 
with the greater share of Cumberland and Franklin. In Maryland the 
eastern and left part of Washington. In Virginia, a large part of Berkley, 
Jefl^erson, Frederick, Shenandoah Rockingham, Augusta, Rockbridge, Bo- 



36 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

tetourt, Montgomery and Grayson, and in North Carolina, the counties of 
Ashe, Buncombe, Haywood and Macon. 

The latitude and relative elevation of this great zone has already been 
showTi in the preceding article, and the peculiar features of its parts may be 
seen under the respective heads of the counties it embraces, in whole or in 
part. 

Laurel Hill, or Laurel Mountain, is a local name given to several 
of the western chains of the Appalachian system, and leads of course to con- 
fusion. The chain in Pennsylvania extending from the Conemaugh to the 
Youghioghany river, — and which seperates Cambria county, from West- 
morland, and Summerset from Westmorland and Fayette, is there called the 
Laurel ^ Hill, whilst another chain ten miles further west, is called the 
Chesnut Ridge. Both these ridges continue out of Pennsylvania, and en- 
ter Virginia, S. W. of the Yougbioghany ; but the names are reversed, oxiA. 
the Chesnut Ridge of Pennsylvania is the Laurel Hill of Virginia. Such 
is the wretched delineation of the Appalachian system, on all of our maps, 
that no adequate idea of the respective chains, can, in many instances, be 
obtained from them. The two chains mentioned in this article, though not 
so represented, preserve their identity, in a manner similar to the Blue Ridge, 
from New York to Alabama. 

BAYS, HARBOURS, RIVERS, SWAMPS, &c. 

To complete our view of Natural Virginia, we have only to consider her 
waters: these for convenience we shall arrange as we have the mountains,, 
in alphabetical order. 

Albemarle Sound belongs to North Carolina, but as it is intimately 
connected with some of the waters of Virginia, we will notice it, — It is au 
estuary of the Roanoke and Chowan rivers, extending GO miles in length 
from east to west, along N. lat. 36^, with a mean breadth of eight miles, but 
protruding several deep minor bays. The Roanoke enters from the west,, 
and the Chowan from the N. W. at the extreme interior of Albemarle, which 
spreads below the entrance of those rivers in a shallow expanse of water, 
with a level, or rather a flat, country along each shore. Every small inlet 
has its o\\i\ comparative broad bay, by one of which, the Pasquotank, a navi- 
gable inland communication by the Dismal Swamp canal, has been formed 
between Albemarle sound and Chesapeake bay. Albemarle sound is sepa- 
rated from the Atlantic ocean, by long, low, and narrow reefs of sand; but 
having two channels of connexion southward with Pamlico sound, one on 
each side of the Roanoke Island, and on the northward an opening to the 
ocean by Currituck sound and inlet; both rivers are navigable to near their 
sources. The climate of this basin differs very much between its extremes, 
both from difference of latitude and of level. The latitude differs near 3^ 
degrees, and the level not less than 1000 feo^t, giving an entire difference of 
temperature of upwards of 5 degrees of latitude. The vegetable productions, 
both natural and exotic, have a corresponding variety with the extent of cli- 
mate. On this basin, near the mouth, the orange and sugar cane are culti- 
vated; and on its higher branches, the apple, and wheat, rye, oats, and other 
cerealia. The staple vegetable, however, both on the interior and islands 
contiguous to this basin, is cotton, though admitting a very Avide range of 
staple, such as tobacco, indigo, &c. Rice is extensively cultivated. 

Appomatox river rises in Buckingham and Prince Edward counties, 



OF VIRGINIA, 37 

and flows thence by a very crooked channel, but by a general eastern course, 
with the counties of Prince Edward, Amelia, Dinwiddle, and Prince George, 
on the right, and Buckingham, Cumberland, Powhatan, and Chesterfield on 
the left, and falls into James river after a comparative course of 90 miles. 
The tide ascends the Appomattox, to the falls of Petersburg, about 20 miles 
above the mouth, and thus far contains depth of water for large merchant 
vessels. This stream drains a very fine section of Virginia, between lat. 
37"' 33' and 37"^ 26' north. It may be navigated as far as Broadway's, by 
any vessel which has crossed Harrison's bar, in James river, and has eight 
or nine feet water a (c\v miles higher up to Fisher's bar ; and by late im- 
provements it contains seven feet water to Petersburg, where navigation 
ceases. 

Bannistkr river rises by numerous branches in Pittsylvania county, 
and flowing twenty-five miles in a N. E. direction, enters Halifax county, and 
inflects to the S. E. about 30 miles, and tails mto Dan river about ten miles 
above the junction of the latter with the Roanoke. Bannister drains most 
part of the peninsula between Dan and Roanoke rivers, below the eastern 
boundary of Henry and Franklin counties. 

Big Sandy, mentioned before as Great Sa?idy river, has its most remote 
sources in the north western slopes of Clinch mountain, but receives tribu- 
taries from a distance of 70 miles, along the upper parts of Russell, Taze- 
well, and Logan counties. The eastern or main branch rises in Logan and 
Tazewell, but the higher streams uniting, the main channel becomes, for a 
distance of 30 miles, a line of demarcation between those two counties, ta 
where it passes Cumberland mountain. From the latter point to its influx 
into the Ohio, the channel of Big Sandy separates Kentucky from Virginia, 
flowing between Logan and Cabell of the latter, and Floyd, Lawrence, and 
Greenup of the former state. The main or eastern branch of Big Sandy 
has interlocking sources with those of Guyandot, Blue-stone, a branch of 
Great Kanawha, Clinch branch of Tennessc, and its own West Fork, 

The West Fork of Sandy rises in Russell county, flows thence westward, 
traverses Cumberland mountain, and enters Pike county, Kentucky. Pas- 
sing over Pike into Floyd in the original direction, the channel curves ta 
northward, and unites with the eastern branch between Lawrence of Ken- 
tucky, and Cabell of Virginia. The valley of Big Sandy is in its greatest 
length from S. S. E. to N. N. W. about 100 miles, with a mean breadth of 
about 30; area 3000 scpiare miles; bounded to the westward by the vallies of 
Kentucky and Licking rivers, to the northeastward by that of Guj-andot, 
and eastward by that of New river, or the upper waters of Great Kanawha, 
The main stream enters the Ohio at Catlettsburgh in Greenup county, Ken- 
tucky, and opposite to the extreme southern angle of the state of Ohio, N. 
lat. 38° 24' and long. 5° 33' west of Washington. 

Blackwater river has its extreme source in Prince George county, and 
within 8 or 10 miles southward from the influx of Appomatox into James 
river. Flowing thence southeastward over Surry and Sussex, it inflects to 
the southward and separating Southampton on the right from Isle of 
Wight, and Nansemond on the left, fiills into the Nottoway river very nearly 
on the border between Virginia and North Carolina, after a comparative course 
of 70 miles. 

Blue-stoxe, a small river in Tazewell and Giles counties, which rises 
in the latter, and interlocking sources with those of Clinch and Big Sandy, 



38 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

flows thence N. E. down a mountain valley into New river, which it enters 
about five miles above the inHux of Greenbrier. 

Cheat river, a considerable branch of the Monongahela, rises on the bor- 
der of Randolph and Pocahontas counties, interlocks Avith Elk and Green- 
brier branches of the Great Kanawha, and after uniting with the south branch 
of the Potomac, flows thence by a general northern course 70 miles, over 
Randolph into Preston county, inflecting in the latter county to N. N. W. 
forty miles to its junction with the Monongahela, at the S. W. angle of Fay- 
ette county, Pennsylvania. The valley of Cheat lies between those of Mo- 
nongahela on the west, Potomac east, and Youghioghany east. The length 
of this valley is about 100 miles, mean breadth not more than 18, and its area 
about 1800 square miles. Cheat river is 200 yards wide at its mouth, and 
100 yards at the Dunkard's settlement, — it is navigable GO miles higher for 
boats, except in dry seasons. The boundary between Virginia and Penn- 
sylvania crosses it, three or four miles above its mouth. 

'Chickahominy river rises between the vallies of the Pamunkey and 
James rivers, about 20 miles N. W. from Richmond; it flows thence S. E. by 
E. — having the counties of Henrico and Charles City on the right, and 
Hanover, New Kent, and James Chy counties on the left; it falls into James 
river after a comparative course of 60 miles. 

Chesapeake bay, a deep gulf, opening from the Atlantic ocean, between 
capes Henry and Charles; lat. 37° and long. 1° east from Washington, 
intersecting in the mouth of the bay, near midway between the capes, which 
are about 15 miles asunder. The mouth of this fine sheet of water extends 
westward 20 miles to the mouth of James river. Curving rapidly, above 
the influx of James river, the Chesapeake extends almost directly north over 
one degree of latitude, with a mean breadth of 20 miles, having received 
from the Avestward James, York, Rappahannock, and Potomac rivers, and 
from the opposite side, Pocomoke and Nantikoke rivers. Widened by the 
imion of so many tributaries, the Chesapeake is upwards of 40 miles wide 
from the mouth of the Potomac to that of Pocomoke, and about 35 from the 
most southern capes of the Potomac to the influx of Nantikoke river. A- 
bove the entrance of the two latter streams, the main bay narrows to a mean 
Avidth of about 10 miles, and at some places under 5 miles, but Avith an ellip- 
tic curA''e to the Avestward 115 miles to its termination, at the mouth of Sus- 
quehannah river, having received from the AvestAA-ard above the Potomac, 
the Patuxent, Patapsco, GunpoAvder and Bash rivers, and from the eastAvard 
Nantikoke, Choptank, St. Michaels, Chester, Sassafras and Elk riA-ers. The 
entire length of Chesapeake bay is 185 miles; and it may be doubted Avhe- 
ther any other bay of the earth, is, in proportion to extent, so much diA-ersi- 
fied by confluent streams as is the Chesapeake. 

In strictness of geographical language, it is, hoAVCA^er, only a continuation 
of Susquehannah river, of Avhich primary stream all the other confluents of 
Chesapeake are branches. In the main bay the depth of AA'ater continues 
suflicient for the navigation of the largest ships of AA-ar to near the mouth of 
Susquehannah; and in Potomac that depth is preserved to Alexandria. In 
the other tributary riA^rs large A^essels are arrested before reaching the head 
of tide AA'ater. If taken in its utmost extent, including the Susquehannah 
valley, the Chesapeake basin forms a great physical limit; to the S. AV. 
Avith feAv exceptions, the rivers, bays and sounds, are shalloAV, and compara- 
tively unnavigable; but Avith the Chesapeake commences deep harbors, 
Avhich follow at no great distance from each other, to the utmost limits of 



OF VIRGINIA. 39 

the Atlantic coast of the United States. The entire surface drained into tliis 
imniense reservoir amounts to near 70,000 square miles. 

We Icnow of no place in which we can better introduce an article upon the 
CiiKSAPKAKK Pkninsula, a natural section of the United States, the ])('cu- 
liar features of which are generally lost or confused among the political sub- 
divisions of our country. This physical s^'ction is bounded by the Atlantic 
ocean S. E., by Chesapeake bay W., by Delaware bay N. E. and united to 
the main continent by an isthmus, now traversed on the nortli by the Ches- 
apeake and Delaware canal. That work has in fact insulated the peninsula, 
and given it water boundaries on all sides. Thus restricted, this peninsula 
extends from Cape Charles N. lat. 37"^ 8' to the Chesapeake and Delaware 
canal at N. lat. 39° 32'. Greatest length very nearly in a direction north 
and south 182 miles. The general form is that of an elongated ellipse, 
which, in component material, features, and elevation, differs in nothing 
essential from the Atlantic islands scattered along the coast of the United 
States. Chesapeake bay is itself divided between Virginia and Maryland; 
the shores on both sides south of the Potomac and Pocomoke rivers belong 
to the former, and to the northward to the latter State. The southern part 
of the peninsula is entirely in Virginia, and is a long, narrow promontory, 
70 miles, by 8 to 10 miles wide. Above Pocomoke bay the peninsula 
widens, and after an intermediate distance of 33 miles, is equally divided 
between the States of Maryland and Delaware. In the widest part, between 
Cape Hcnlopen, Sussex county, Delaware, and the western part of Talbot, 
Maryland, the width is 70 miles, but narrowing towards both extremes, the 
mean breath is about 27; area 4900 square miles. The surface is generally 
level or very gently undulating. The ocean and Chesapeake shores are strong- 
ly contrasted. Along the former, are narrow and low islands, with shallow 
sounds, and no stream issuing from the land of any consequence. The 
opposite shore of the Chesapeake is in an especial manner indented by innu- 
merable bays, and compared with the confined width of the peninsula, rivers 
of great magnitude of volume. The character of the Atlantic is extended 
along the Delaware bay; and entirely round the peninsula, much of the soil 
is liable to diurnal or occasional submersion from the tides. 

The general slope is south westward as demonstrated by the course of the 
rivers Pocomoke, Nantikoke, Choptank, Chester, Sassafras, and Elk. Po- 
litically it contains all Sussex, Kent, and more than one-half of New Castle 
county, of Delaware, all Worcester, Somerset, Dorchester, Talbot, Caroline, 
Glueen Ann, and Kent, and one-third of Cecil county, of Maryland, with all 
Accomack and Northampton counties, of Virginia. 

Chowax river, is in North Carolina, but formed by the union of throe 
streams of Virginia, the Meherin, Nottoway, and Blackwater rivers: 

The Meherin rises in Charlotte county, Virginia, 1° 30' west from Wash- 
ington City, lat. 37°, between the vallies of lloanoke and Appomattox, and 
floAting thence S. E. by E. by comparative courses 80 miles, passes into 
North Carolina between Northampton and (iatcs counties, and 20 miles 
farther unites with the Nottowa}', above Winton, between Gates and Hert- 
ford counties. 

The Nottoway derives its remote sources from Prince Edward county, 
Virginia, between those of Meherin and Appomatox. In a general eastern 
course of 70 miles, the Nottoway separates Limenburg, Brunswick and 
Greensville counties from Nottoway, Dinwiddie and Sussex, and flows into 
the central parts of the latter. Thence inclining S. E. 40 miles it receives 



40 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

Blackwater river almost on the boiindary line between Virginia and North 
Carolina. Below the junction of the Nottoway and Blackwater, the name 
of the former, and course of the latter, are preserved, and about 10 miles 
within North Carolina and in Gates county, meet the Meherin to form^ 
Chowan river. 

A tide water river, or more correctly a bay, the Chowan, gradually 
widens, but still retaining a moderate breadth, 25 miles to the influx of Be- 
mer's creek, there bends to near a southern course and more rapidly widens 
for 25 miles to its junction with Roanoke, at the head of Albemarle sound. 
Lat. 36°, passes up Albemarle sound, and intersects the eastern point of 
Bertie county. North Carolina, between the mouths of Chowan and Roan- 
oke, 0° 20' long, east of Washington City. 

Including all its tributaries, the Chowan drains an area of 3,500 square 
miles, which, as a physical section, comprises the northeastern part of the 
basin of Roanoke. As a commercial channel, the Chowan, Nottoway, and 
Blackwater extend almost directly from the mouth of Roanoke to that of 
James river. There is at all seasons sufhcient depth of water to admit sloops 
of wax to Murfreesboro' on Meherin, about 10 miles above the entrance 
of NottoAvay river. 

Clinch river of Virginia and Tennessee, the great northeastern consti- 
tuent of Tennessee river, rises in Tazewell county, Virginia, and floAvs 
thence by a general course of S. W. over Russell and Scott counties, 90 
miles. Entering Tennessee, Clinch separates Claiborne county from Haw- 
kins, Granger and Anderson ; Campbell from Anderson, and thence travers- 
ing the latter, enters Roan, and unites with the Tennessee at Kingston, after 
an entire comparative course of 180 miles. In the south part of Campbell 
county Clinch receives from the N. E. Powell's river. The latter rising 
in Russell county, Virginia, issues thence in a direction almost parallel to 
the Clinch; traverses Lee county of Virginia, enters Tennessee, crossing 
Claiborne and Campbell counties, joins the Clinch at Grantsboro, after a 
comparative course of 90 miles. A short distance above its junction Avith 
Tennessee river, the Clinch receives from the N. W. Emery's river. It 
may be remarked that the course of the higher branches of Emery's river is 
directly the reverse of that of Clinch and Powell's river. Uniting the vallies 
of Emery's and Clinch river, the whole valley is about 220 miles long; but 
the width is contracted comparatively, and fully estimated at 20 miles; area 
4400 square miles. 

In all their respective courses. Clinch and Holston pursue a parallel direc- 
tion, in few places 20 miles asunder, each receiving short creeks, from an 
intervening mountain chain. On the opposite or right side, Clinch in suc- 
cession interlocks sources Avith those of Great Sandy, Kentucky and Cum- 
berland rivers. The relative elevation of the vallies of Clinch and Holston 
differ but little from each other, and each stream above their junction, must 
have, from their remote fountains, a fall of 1000 or 1200 feet. 

Coal river, in western Virginia, rises in Logan county by tAvo branches, 
called relatively Great and Little Coal rivers. The former rises in the Aves- 
tern spurs of the Appalachian ridges, floAvs N. W. out of Logan into Ka- 
naAvha county, receives Little Coal riA'er from the S. W. and finally falls 
into the right side of Great KanaAvha and Guyandot riA-ers. [See Kan. co.] 

Craig's creek, or, more correctly, Craig's riA'er, is the extreme S. W. 
tributary of James river, rises in Giles and Montgomery counties, AHrginia, 
interlocking sources A\'ith a branch of Great KanaAvha, and Avith the extreme 



OF VIRGINIA. 41 

higher sources of Roanoke; and flowing thence to the N. E. over Bote- 
tourt county, falls into James river after a comparative course of 40 miles. 

(."owpASTuuE river, Virginia, rising in the mountain valley between the 
Kiltatinny and Warm Spring mountain, interlocking sources with the south 
branch of Potomac, but flowing in an opposite direction S. S. W. falling 
into, or joining Jackson's river, to form James river, after a compaiative 
course of 50 miles. 

Dismal Swamp. This remarkable swamp extends from north to south 
nearly thirty miles ; and averages from east to west nearly ten ; it lies partly 
in Virginia, and partly in North Carolina. Five navigable rivers, and some 
creeks rise in it; of the rivers, two flow into Virginia, — south branch of 
Elizabeth river, and south branch of Nansemond, — and three into North 
Carolina, — the North river, the North West river, and the Pequimonds. 
The sources of all of these streams are hidden in the swamp, and no traces 
of them appear above ground. From this it appears, that there must be 
plentiful subterraneous fountains to supply these streams, — or the soil must 
be filled perpetually with the water drained from the higher lands which 
surround it. The latter hypothesis is most probable, because the soil of the 
Swamp is a complete quagmire, trembling under the feet, and filling imme- 
diately the impression of every step with water. It may be penetrated to a 
great distrance by thrusting down a stick, and whenever a fire is kindled 
upon it, after the layer of leaves and rubbish is burned through, the coals 
sink down, and are extinguished 

The eastern skirts of the Dismal Swamp are overgrown with reeds, ten 
or tAvelve feet high, interlaced every where with thorny bamboo briars, 
which render it almost impossible to pass. Among these are found, here 
and there, a cypress, and white cedar, which last is ccmmcnly mistaken for 
the juniper. Towards the south, there is a very large tract covered wi'h 
ree.ls, without any trees, which being constantly green and A\aving in the 
wind, is called the green sea. An ever-green shrub, called the gall-lush, 
grows plentifully throughout, but especially on ths borders: it bears a berry 
which dies a black color, like the gall cf an cak, — ar.d htrce its rame. 

Near the middle of the Swamp, the trees grow mixh closer, both the 
cypress and cedar; and being ah\ays gretn ar.d loaded with large tops, are 
much exposed to the wind, and easily bkA^m dcwn, in this bcggy place, 
Avhere the soil is too soft to afibrd suflicient hold to the rocts. Frcm these 
causes, the passage is nearly always obstructed by trees, which lay pi'edin 
heaps, and riding upon each other; and the snags left in them pointing in 
every direction, render it very difiicult to clamber over thtm. 

On the western border of the Dismal Swamp, is a pine swamp, above a 
mile in breadth, the greater part of which is covered to the depth of the 
knee with water: the bottom, however, is firm, and though the pines grow- 
ing upon it are very large and tall, yet they are not easily blown down by 
the wind; so that this swamp may be passed without any hinderance, save 
that occasioned by the depth of the water. With all of these disadvantages, 
the Dismal Swamp, though disagreeable to the other senses, is, in many 
places, pleasant to the eye, on account of the perpetual verdure which m.akes 
every season like the spring, and every month like May. (See a more par- 
ticular description of Dismal Swamp, Norfolk county.) 

Dan river, belongs partly to Virginia, and partly to North Carolina, it 
drains the greater part of Granville, Person, Ca«well, Rockingham and 
Stokes countie.'s, of the latter state, and of Patrick, Henry, Pittsylyania, and 
6 



42 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

Halifax comities, of the former stat^. The extreme western sources of Dan 
river are in Patrick county, Virginia, and in the S. E. spurs of the Blue 
Ridge. The general course almost due east along the intermediate borders 
of North Carolina and Virginia, to where the four counties of Piusylvania, 
Halifax, Person and Caswell meet. Here entering and flowing in Virginia 
N. E. by E., falls into the Roanoke at Clarksville, having a mean breadth 
of about 33 miles. This river drains 3,960 square miles. 

Dividing creek, a small stream of Virginia, forming for a few miles the 
boundary between Lancaster and Northumberland counties, and then falling 
into the Chesapeake. 

Elizabeth river, rises by numerous small branches in Princess Ann 
and Norfolk counties, flows to the N. W. opening into a Avide estuary, termi' 
nating in the mouth of James river. The entire length of Elizabeth river 
is only about 2.5 miles, but it gains importance as forming the fine harbor 
of Norfolk, admitting to that port vessels of 18 feet draught, and again as 
constituting with the Dismal Swamp canal and Pasquotank river, a chain 
of inland navigation from Chesapeake bay to Albemarle sound. 

Elk river, in western Virginia, rises amid the Appalachian ridges in 
Randolph and Pocahontas counties, interlocking sources with those of Mo- 
nongahela. Little Kanawha, Wheat, Greenbrier and Gauley rivers. Leav- 
ing ^Randolph and Pocahontas, and traversing Nicholas and Kanawha coun- 
ties, it finally is lost in Great Kanawha at Charleston, after a comparative 
western course of 100 miles. 

Gauley river, rises in Randolph, Pocahontas, and Greenbrier counties, 
by numerous creeks which unite in Nicholas, and flow by a course a little 
south of west, falling into the right side of the Great Kanawha river, at the 
head of the Great Falls. The valley of Grauley river is about 60 miles 
long, and lies between those of Elk and Grreenbrier rivers. 

Greenbrier river rises in the northern part of Pocahontas county, 
over which it flows, and entering and traversmg Grreenbrier county, falls 
into Great Kanawha, after a comparative southwestern course of 90 miles. 
Greenbrier has its remote sources in the same ridges with those of Cheat 
river branch of Monongahela, and those of the South branch of the Poto- 
mac. The valley of Greenbrier lies between those of James and Gauley 
rivers. It is an elevated region. The water level is from actual admea- 
surement, 1,333 feet at the efflux of Greenbrier into Great KanaAvha. The 
mean height of the farms above the ocean level cannot fall much, if any, 
short of i,5Q0 feet. 

GuvANDOTTE rlvcr rises in Logan county, from the northwestern foot 
of the Great Flat Top mountain, and flowing thence N. N. W. draining a 
valley between those of Great Kanawha and Sandy rivers, enters Cabell 
county and falls into Ohio river below Barboursville, after a comparative 
course of about 100 miles. 

GuYANDOTTE, LiTTLE, falls iuto Ohio rivcr between the mouths of Guy- 
andotte and Great Kanawha rivers, and for some miles above its mouth con- 
.stitiites the boundary between Mason and Cabell counties. 

Hampton Roads, local name of the mouth of James river opposite the 
mouths of Nansemond and Elizabeth rivers. Towards the Chesapeake 
bay, Hampton Roads is defined on the north by Old Point Comfort, and on 
the so;ith by Point Willoughby; within James river the termination is in- 
defmite. This sheet of water is sufficiently deep for the largest ships of 
war. The United States commissioners, appointed to examine the lower 



OF VrRGINIA. 43 

part of Chosapeiike bay in 1S18, reported, that although extensive, Hampton 
Roads admitted the erection of adequate defences against an enemy's fleet. 
HoLSTON river rises in the Alleghany mountains, in Virginia, and flows 
S. S. W. into Tennessee, it then takes a course more to the south to Knox- 
ville, and oo miles below that town, it unites with the Clinch, and the united 
streams take the name of the Tennessee. It is navigable for boats of 25 
tons burthen, more than lUO miles. On its banks are several iron-works; 
and the adjacent country abounds with iron-ore, and contains several lead- 
mines. Valuable salt works exist near its sources. 

Jackson river, the principal constituent of James river, rises by two 
branches, the north and south forks, in the southern part of Pendleton county, 
Virginia. Flowing thence southwestward and nearly parallel, and between 
lateral chains of mountains, the two branches traverse Bath county, and en- 
tering Alleghany, incline towards each other and unite, but the united stream 
still pursues a southwestern course, receiving Dunlop's creek from the west 
and Pott's creek from the south, after a comparative course from the source 
in Pendleton of about 50 miles. With the junction of Pott's creek, the 
whole stream inflects very abruptly to N. E. and flowing in that direction 
15 miles, through rugged mountain passes, unites with Cow Pasture river 
to form James river. The valley of Jackson's river, is an elevated region. 
At Covington, the county seat of Alleghany county, where Dunlop's 
creek falls into Jackson's river, the wator surface is 1,238 feet above the 
Atlantic level; it is Therefore probable, that the greatest part of the arable 
surface of the adjacent country exceeds a comparative height of 1,500 feet. 

- Lat. 38°, and long. 3° west, Washington, intersect in the western part of 
Bath county, about G miles north of the junction of the two main branches 
of Jackson's river. 

James river. The two streams wliich unite to form this fine river, may 
be seen under the he head of Jackson and Cow Pasture rivers. Below the 
junction of its two constituents, the united water is first known as James 
river, which forcing a passage through between Pott's and Mill mountains, 
enters Botetourt, and assumes a southern course 10 miles, to where it re- 
ceives Craig's creek from the south, and inflecting to S. S. E. flows in that 
direction lo^miles, thence abruptly turns to N. E. by E. 20 miles, to the wes- 
tern foot of Blue Ridge, and the reception of North river from Augusta 
and Rockbridge counties. Assuming a S. E. course of 28 miles, James 
river, now a fine navigable stream, traverses a gap of Bhie Ridge about 15 
miles N. E. the Peaks of Otter, and in a distance of 30 miles, separating 
Amherst from Bedford and Campbell counties, and traversing another late- 
ral chain of mountains near Lynchburg, again turns to N. E. Continuing 
the latter course 40 miles and separating Amherst and Nelson from Camp- 
bell and Buckingham coynties, James river assumes a course a little south 
of east 70 miles" by comparative course, having on the left the counties of 
Albemarle, Fluvanna, Goochland and Henrico, and on the right the coun- 
ties of Buckingham, Cumberland, Powhatan, and Chesterfield, to the head 
of tide water and the lower falls at Richmond. 

Meeting the tide, James river, similar to most of the Athmtic rivers of the 
United States generally, widens and presenting rather the features of a bay 
than those of a river, turns to a little E. of S. E. 90 miles by comparative 
courses, finally merges into Chesapeake bay, between Pomt ^Vlll()ughby 
and Old Point Comfort. The entire length of James river, from its source 
in Pendleton, to its efilux into Chesapeake, is 36S miles, but following the 



44 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

actual meanders it is probable that this stream flows not much if any less 
than 500 miles. 

The valley of James river, including all its tributaries, lies between lat. 
36^ 40' and 38^ 20', and in long, extends near 1° east to 3° 40' west from 
Washington. A line in a S. S. W. direction from Old Point Comfort to 
the Alleghany mountain wdll pass along very near the middle of this val- 
ley 225 miles. The broadest part is along the extreme sources, from the 
fountains of Jackson's river to those of Craig's creek 90 miles, but the 
mean width amounts to about 45 miles and the area to 10,125 square miles. 

In the natural state James river affords at, and a few miles above, its 
mouth, depth of water for ships of any required draught, but the depth 
gradually shallows, so that only vessels of 130 tons can reach Rockets, or 
the port of Richmond. Though much has been designed above tide water 
in meliorating the navigation, little has been actually accomplished. A 
canal connects the tide below, and the navigable water above the 
falls at Richmond. The following relative heights will show the gradual 
rise of the James river. Columbia at the mouth of Rivanna 178 feet; 
Scottsville, at the southeastern angle of Albemarle county, and below the 
southeast chain of the Appalachian system 255 feet ; Lynchburg, also be- 
low the southeast mountain 500 feetf Pattonsburg, at the great bend above 
Blue Ridge 8(J6 feet; Covington, ai the junction of Dunlop's creek and 
Jackson's river, 1,222 feet; highest spring tributary to Craig's creek, 2,498 
feet. Those heights are only the elevation of the water, and at every point 
must fall short of that of the arable soil. Without any great risk of error, 
an allowance of vv-inter temperature equal to 6 degrees of Fahrenheit may 
be made between the extremes of this valley on the same latitude. 

Kanawha, Great, river. North Carolina and Virginia, has the most 
remote source in Ashe county of the former, between the Blue Ridge and 
main Appalachian chain, there known by the name of Iron mountain ; the 
two higher branches, after draining the northern part of Ashe, unite near 
the boundary between North Carolina and Virginia, and continuing their 
original course to the N. E. by N., enters Grayson county of the lat- 
ter state, breaks through the Iron mountain between Grayson and Wythe; 
winds over the latter and Montgomery; thence inflecting to the N. N. W. 
traverses Walker's and Peter's mountains. BeloAv the latter chain, the 
course of N. N. W. is continued to the mouth of Gauley river having re- 
ceived also from the northeast Greenbrier. 

Above Gauley river, the main volume of Kanawha is called New river ; 
but receiving the Gauley, and turning to N. W., this now large stream, 
known as the Great Kanawha, is still farther augmented from the north by 
Elk river, and from the south by Coal river, falls into Ohio river at Point 
Pleasant, after a comparative course of 280 miles, 100 above Walker's 
mountain, 100 from the pass through Walker's mountain to the mouth of 
Gauley river, and 80 from the mouth of Gauley to the Ohio. 

The higher branches of New river have interlocking sources with these 
of Catawba and Yadkin on the S. E., and with those of Watauga and Hol- 
Bton to the northwest. Below the Iron mountains the interlocking soucgs are 
with those of Clinch and Sandy to the west, those of Rcanoke to the east, and 
those of James river N. E., as far down as the gorge of Peter's mountain, 
westward of the latter pass. Greenbrier, coming in7rom the north has its 
sources in the same region with those of the Potomac on the northeast, and 
with those of the Monongahela to the northward. The valley of Kanawha 



OF VIRGINIA. 45 

proper, below Gauley river, lies generally Ixtwecn the valley of Guyandotte 
on the S. W., and that of Little Kanawha N. E., though the sources of Elk 
river, also reach the vicinity of those of Monongahela. 

The entire valley of Great Kanawha, including that of New river, extends 
lat. 36^ 15' in Ashe county, North Carolina, to 38° 52' at the junction of 
Kanawha and Ohio, and in long. 2° 43' at the higher source of Greenbrier, 
to 5° 08' west of Washington city. The length of this valley from the 
Blue Ridge between Patrick and Montgomery counties, Virginia, in a 
N. W. direction is 180 miles, the utmost breadth from the sources of New 
river, to those of Greenbrier is 180, but the mean width is about 60, and the 
area may be stated at 10,800 square miles. 

The most remarkable feature in the valley of the Great Kanawha, as a 
physical section, is relative height. At the mouth of Sinking creek, between 
Walker's and Peter's mountains, 120 miles by comparative courses below 
the sources, the water level is 1,535 feet above the Atlantic tides; at the 
mouth of Greenbrier 1,333, and at the mouth into Ohio 525 feet. Compar- 
ing the fall from Sinking creek to the mouth of Greenbrier 252 feet in 
30 miles direct, that above Sinking creek must be 900 feet at least, conse- 
quently, the higher branches of New river, in Ashe count}', must rise at a 
comparative height of upwards of 2,500 feet. 

Little K.vxawha, rises in Lewis county, and flowing N. W. by W., en- 
ters Wood, and falls into the Ohio, at Parkersburg, after a comparative 
course of 90 miles. The valley of this river is nearly commensurate with 
Wood and Lewis counties, and has that of Great Kanawha south, Middle 
Island creek to the north, and that of Monongahela, N. E. is 150 yards 
wide at the mouth. It yields a navigation of ten miles only; perhaps its 
northern branch called Junius' creek, which interlocks with the west fork 
of Monongahela, may one day admit a shorter passage from the latter into 
the Ohio. 

Little river, of Montgomery county, rises in the western vallies of the 
Blue Ridge, and flowing to the N. W., about 25 miles comparative course, 
falls into New river, 12 miles S.. W. by W. Christiansburg. 

Mattafoxy river has its extreme source on the eastern border of Orange 
county, near the Rapid Ann, about 25 miles westward Fredericksburg, but 
the most numerous of its creeks arc in Spottsylvania. These unite within, 
and traverse Caroline, and thence forming a boundary between King Wil- 
liam and King and Queen, unite with the Pamunky, to form York river, 
after a comparative southeastern course of ten miles. The valley of the 
Mattapony lies between those of the Rappahannock and Pamunky, and is 
traversed by N. lat. 38° and the meridian of Washington. 

Matihapuxg Inlet, on the coast of the Atlantic, between Hog and 
Prout Islands, Northampton county. It opens into a sheet or small gulf, 
called Broad Water, 28 miles N. N. E. cape Charles, lat. 37° 20'. 

Meherix river, of Virginia and North Carolina, deriving its most remote 
sources from Charlotte, but rising principally in Lunenburg and Mecklen- 
burg counties, and uniting on the western margin of Brunswick. Contin- 
uing its original course S. E. by E. over Brunswick and Greenville, and 
thence seperating a part of Greenville from Southampton, it enters North 
Carolina, between Northampton and Gates counties, and joins the Nottaway 
to form the Chowan, between Gates and Hertford counties. The entire 
comparative course of the Mehorin is about 95 miles, but the valley is nar- 
row, not exceeding 20 miles width at any part, (mean width hardly 10,) area 



46 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

about 900 square miles, lying- between the vallies of Roanoke and Nottaway. 

MoxoNGAiiELA liver, in Virginia, Maryland and Pennsylvania, is formed 
by Monongahela proper, Tygart's Valley river, Cheat river, and the Yough- 
ioghany. The Cheat is in fact the main stream, having its remote source 
in the southern part of Randolph county, Virginia, at lat. 38° 2? ', interlock- 
ing sources with those of Green river, and Jackson's branch of James river. 
The remote sources of Tygart's Valley river, are nearly as far south as those 
of Cheat, and also in Randolph county. The mountain ridge from which 
both streams rise is known locally as Greenbrier mountain, and the valleys 
from which the higher sources are derived, must be at least 2,500 feet eleva- 
ted above tide water in Chesapeake bay. 

Monongahela proper, is the western branch, rising in Lewis county, Vir- 
ginia, with interlocking sources with those of Tygart's Valley and little 
Kanawha. The three branches near their sources, pursue a general nor- 
thern course, but the two western, gradually approach each other, and 
unite at lat. 39° 28', where they form a point of seperation between Harrison 
and Monongalia counties. Thence assuming a northern course over the 
latter county, finally leave Virginia, and form a junction with Cheat on the 
boundary between Fayette and Green counties, Pennsylvania. 

The Cheat in the highest part of its course, flows along a mountain valiej', 
in a northern direction, but gradually inclining to northwestward, as already 
noticed under the head of Cheat river. Below the junction of the main 
branches, the Monongahela, by a rather circuitous channel, pursues a gener- 
al northern course over Pennsylvania, about 50 miles, comparative length to 
its junction with Youghioghany, 1 1 miles S. E. of Pittsburg. 

The Youghioghany is a considerable branch, having its remote sources 
in the western part of Alleghany county, }\Iaryland. Flowing thence 
northwardU', enters Pennsylvania, and separating for some few miles, So- 
merset, from Fayette county, receives a large tributary from the eastward, 
Casselman's river, and turning to N. N. W. about 50 miles, comparative 
course, is lost in the Monongahela at MacKeesport. Augmented by the 
Youghioghany, the Monongahela below the junction, assumes the course of 
the former, 18 miles by the channel, but only 11 direct distance to Pittsburg, 
Avhere it unites with the Alleghany to form the Ohio. The general course 
of the Monongahela is almost exactly north, and almost as exactly along 
long. 3° W. Washington, 150 miles by comparative distance. The widest 
part of its valley lies nearly along the line between Pennsylvania and Vir- 
ginia, 80 miles; the mean width 40, and area 6,000 square miles. 

If Ave allow only 1,500 feet elevation to the arable country on the head 
branches of Cheat, Pittsburg being elevated 678 feet, will give a descent of 
822 feet to the valley of Monongahela. The extremes of lat. are thus almost 
exactly compensated by declivity, and explain why the seasons near Pittsburg 
and in Randolph county, Virginia, differ but slightly. 

Though the two eastern branches, Cheat and Youghioghany, rise in 
mountain vallies, and the whole country drained by all the tributaries of IMon- 
ongahela is very broken and rocky, direct falls are rare and of no great ele- 
vation Avhen they occur. Cheat river, is naA'igable through Monongalia 
and Preston, into Randolph county; both branches of Monongahela proper, 
above their junction, and Youghioghany to Ohio, have falls. 1'he whole Aal- 
ley has gained recent increase of importance as being part of the route or 
rovites of proposed lines of canal improvement. 

Monongahela river is 400 yards wide at its mouth; at the mouth of the 



OF VIRGINIA. 47 

Youghio^-hanoy 12 or 15 niilos higher up, it is 300 yards widt,-; and continues 
of that width to the mouth of Cheat river, a distance of 90 miles by water, 
but only oS by land. In this space the navigation is frequently interrupted 
by rapids, but are passable by boats when the river rises a few feet. From 
tliat point it admits light boats, except in dry seasons Gu miles further, to the 
head of Tygint's valley, — presenting only some falls of a few feet, and lessen- 
ing in width to 20 yards. The western fork is navigable in winter 10 or 15 
miles, towards the northern branch of the Little Kanawha, to which a good 
wagon road might be made. The Youghioghany is the principal branch of 
this river. This branch passes through the Laurel mountain about 300 
miles from its mouth, and is that far, from 300 to 150 yards Avide, and the 
navigation much obstructed in dry weather by rapids and shoals. In its 
passage through the mountain the fall is very great, admitting no naviga- 
tion for ten miles to the Turkey Foot. Thence to the great crossing, about 
20 miles, it is again navigable, except in dry seasons, and is at that place 20 
3'ards wide. The sources of this river are divided from those of the Poto- 
mac by the Alleghany mountain. From the falls at which it intercepts the 
Laurel mountian to Fort Cumberland, the head of navigation on the Potomac, i.s 
40 miles of very mountaneous road. Willis' creek, at the mouth of which 
Avas Fort Cumberland, is 30 or 40 yards wide, but beyond that, there is no 
navigation. 

Nansemond river rises in Isle of Wight and Nansemond counties, 
but chiefly in the latter. It opens by a comparatively wide bay into Hamp- 
ton Roads, and is navigable for vessels of 250 tons to Sleepy Hole, for those 
of 100, to Suffolk, the county toAvn of Nansemond, and for those of 25 tons 
to Milner's. 

Nottoway river, of Virginia and North Carolina, has its most remote 
source in Prince Edward county. Flowing thence S. S. E. betAveen Not- 
taway and Lunenburg counties, between DiuAviddie and BrunsAvick, turns 
to eastward betAveen Greensville and the Avcsternpart of Sussex. Entering 
the latter, and first curving nortlnvard Avinds to S. E., and traA^ersing Sussex 
and Southampton counties, receives BlackAvater riA-er from the north, and 
entering Gates cotinty. North Carolina, bends to S. W. 10 miles to its junc- 
tion Avith Meherin, to form ChoAvan riA'er. The entire length of NottaAA-ay 
by comparative courses is 110 miles. The NottoAA^ay valley is about 100 
miles, by 20 mean Avidth, comprising great part of NottaAvay, DiuAviddic, 
Sussex, Surry, and Southampton counties, and a smaller part of Lunenburg, 
BrunsAvick, Greensville, Prince George, Isle of Wight, and Nansemond 
counties, and a minor part of Gates county, North Carolina. 

OccoauAN river rises in Loudon, Fairfax, and Fauquier counties, tra- 
verses and drains the Avestern part of Prince William county, and thence 
forming the boundary betAA^een Prince William and Fairfax counties, falls 
into the Potomac, about 25 miles below Washington City, and nearly oppo- 
site Indian Point. [See Prince William county.] 

Ohio forms the boundary of Virginia for 355 miles. It is in some re- 
spects the most remarkable river upon earth. The physical section of the 
earth drained by it lies betAveen lat. 34° 12' and 42° 27', and long. 1° and 
12° Avest of Washington City. The course of the Ohio proper, from the 
sources of Alleghany to its junction Avith the Mississippi, is by calculation 
59° 30' AA-est, GSO statute miles. 

The form of the valley of the Ohio approaches, in a very remarkable 
manner, that of a regular ellipse, of Avhich a line druAvn from its most north- 



48 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

em to its most southern sources, from Orleans creek, Cataraugus county, 
New York, to Bear Grass creek, Marion county, Alabama, 750 statute 
miles, — would be the transverse diameter, and another line extending from 
the Blue Ridge, where the sources of the Great Kanawha and those of 
Watauga branch of Tennessee rise, to the northwestern sources of the Wa- 
bash, 450 miles, would be the congugate axis. Measured by the rhombs 
following the elements in the following table, the area comes out more than 
200,000 square miles: 

Table of the extent in square miles of the valley of Ohio river: 

square miles. 
8,986 

- 25,655 
29,205 
32,700 
32,250 

- 32,742 
29,488 

9,085 



Between 


lat 


34° 


and 35° 


ox 

'-4 


Rhon 






35 


36 


6i 


do. 






36 


37 


H 


do. 






37 


38 


H 


do. 






38 


39 


H 


do. 






39 


40 


8# 


do. 






40 


41 


8 


do. 






41 


42 


2i 


do. 



Aggregate extent in square miles, - - - 200, 111 

Allowing the greatest length to be 750 miles, the mean width will be 267 
very nearly, or the mean breadth amounts to within a trifling fraction of 
one-third of the greatest length, a compactness seldom equalled in rivers. 

If the Alleghany is regarded as the primary and remote constituent of 
Ohio, this great stream rises by numerous creeks in McKean and Potter 
counties, Pennsylvania, and Alleghany and Cataraugus counties, New York. 
Becoming navigable near the line of demarcation between the two states, 
the stream, with partial windmgs, pursues the general course already stated, 
to its junction with the Mississippi, affording a natural navigable channel of 
between 1,200 and 1,300 miles. The opposing inclined plains of Ohio val- 
ley are of unequal extent, nearly in the proportion of two to three, the larger 
falling from the Appalachian system of mountains, and containing 120,000 
square miles. 

In their features also the two Ohio plains differ essentially. The south- 
eastern, declining from a mountainous outline, has a comparatively rapid 
slope. The most elevated table land from which the eastern tributaries flow, 
is that where rise the sources of Clinch, Holston, and Great Kanawha, 
about 2,500 feet. The Appalachian table land declines in relative elevation 
both to north and south of this nucleus, but there is no one part from the 
sources of Alleghany and Genesee to those of Tennessee and Coosa, through 
7° of lat. but which'exceeds 1,000 feet. 

The elevation of Ohio at Pittsburg, Avhere the Alleghany and Mononga- 
hela unite, is 678 feet, and that of the low Avater at the confluence of Ohio 
and Mississippi 283 feet; of course the Ohio below Pittsburg, has a fall of 
395 feet in 948 miles, the length of the intermediate channel. The left tri- 
butaries must have, from the preceding data, a descent of from 1,000 to 
2,200 feet. Down this rapid declivity, advancing from north to south, are 
found the streams of Clarion, Kiskiminitas, Monongahela, Great Kanawha, 
Sandy, Kentucky, Cumberland and Tennessee, and several of lesser length 
of course, whose sources do not reach the Appalachian vallies. 

It may well excite surprise, that along this steep plain, direct falls are not 
frequent, and where they do occur are of moderate direct pitch. 



OF VIRGINIA. 40 

To an eye sufficiently elevated, and powers of vision sufficiently enlaro-ed, 
the whole valley of Ohio would appear one immense declivity, falling- very 
nearly at right angles to the general range of the Appalachian system, and 
the rivers would appear to have cut deep channels seldom in a direction cor- 
responding to the plane of general descent. 

Of these channels that of Ohio would appear as the principal. Per- 
sons competent have carefully measured the height of the hills, in the vicinity 
of Pittsburg, and found them about 400 feet above the low water level of the 
riv'ors, or 1,138 feet above the level of the Atlantic tides. Above Pittsburo- 
to the hills, which rise like mountains from lake Erie, the ascent is at least 
400 feet, and below Pittsburg the fall to the Mississippi has been shown to 
be 395 feet. Without therefore estimating mountain ridges, the great in- 
clined plain of Ohio has a descent of upwards of a foot to the statute mile, 
but what is something remarkable, the rivers, and particularly the Ohio it- 
self, do not Ihll gradually with the planes of their courses. The actual 
4:hannel from Pittsburg to the mouth is 918 statute miles, and the hW 4,710 
inches, or not quite five inches per mile. 

The waters in effect have abraded their channels, deeper toward their 
sources than in proportion to length of course. It is this circumstance 
which has contributed to give to the Ohio proper, the appearance of flowing 
in a deep and immense ravine. The diflerence of climate arising from dif- 
ference of level, frequently exceeding a degree of latitude in less than a mile, 
and radiated heat, with an exuberant alluvial soil, giving in spring a preco- 
<:ious vegetation along the river bank, have superinduced great misunder- 
standing respecting the temperature and seasons of this region. 

Descending the Ohio, say from Pittsburg, the scenery along the banks 
and hills, is in an eminent degree picturesque and varied, but these fine fea- 
tures imperceptibly fade away, and long before reaching the Mississippi, to- 
.tally disappear, and leave a narrow horizontal ring sweeping round the 
heavens, formed by the trees along the banks. 

As a navigable channel, few, if any other rivers of the globe, equal the 
Ohio. In the higher part of its course, the navigation is annually more or 
less impeded in winter by ice, and in autumn by a want of water. Impedi- 
ment from ice prevails in all its course, but below the influx of Kanawha, 
drought is of less injury, and below the rapids at Louisville, in a com- 
mercial point of view, removed by a navigable canal. 

The four most important of all mineral productions abound in the Ohio 
valley, limestone, mineral coal, sah, and iron ore. Of all continuous bodies 
of productive soil on earth, if climate and fertility are combined, the valley 
of Ohio will, it is probable, sustain the most dense population. Not long 
since there did not exist upon its immense surface 20,000 civilized human 
beings. In 1831, it sustained about 3,000,000. Can the history of the 
world afford any parallel to such increase? 

Pamuxkey river, the principal constituent of York river, is formed by 
Pamunky proper and North Anna. The latter rises in Orange, the nor- 
thern part of Louisa and in Spottsylvania counties, and flowing thence 
southeastward unites with the Pamunkey, between Caroline and Hanover 
counties. 

The Pamunky rises in the S. W. mountain, on the border between Al- 
bemarle and Louisa; drains the southern and central part of Louisa, and 
traversing Hanover, joins the North Anna. Below their junction, the uni- 
ted waters, known by the name of Pamunky, preserve the original course 
7 ' 



50 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

southeastward, about 45 miles comparative course, (but perhaps double 
that distance by the bends,) to its junction with Mattaponj^ to form York 
river. The entire comparative length of Pamunkey, by either branch, is 
about 90 miles. The broadest part of the valley but little exceeds 30 miles, 
and is only about 15 mean width, area 1,300 square miles, lying between 
those of James and Chickahominy on the right, and IMattopcny on the 
left. 

Pig river, rises in the southeastern slope of the Blue Ridge, and 
flowing thence eastward, between Black water and Irvine rivers, traverses 
and drains the central part of Franklin county, and entering Pittsylvania, 
turns to E. and falls into Roanoke, after a comparative course of 35 
miles. 

PocATALico. — This river has its sources near the northern boundary of 
the county of Kanawha, and flows through a body of forest land finely tim- 
bered: much of it fertile, and sufficiently level for advantageous cultivation. 
The alluvial lands on its borders, are generally rich, and of width suffi- 
cient to form good farms. Pocatilico discharges itself into the Great 
Kanawha, 20 miles below Charleston, and forty miles above the mouth of 
the latter river; it is navigable by batteaux, which ascend from 20 to 30 miles, 
and during the winter and spring months, large and heavy loaded boat-s 
may descend with safety, as also rafts of timber of various description.s. 
Extensive beds of rich bituminous coal, are found near the Pocatalico, and 
its branches, and iron ores apparently of good quality, are often dug out of 
the hills. 

Potomac river, of Virginia, Maryland and Pennsylvania. This river 
above Blue Ridge, is formed by the north branch, distinctively called Poto- 
mac, Patterson's river, South Branch, Cacapon, Back creek, Opequhan and 
Sheandoah, from the southwestward, and by a series of bold, though com- 
paratively small streams from the northv.-ard. The stream to Avhich the 
name of Potomoc is first applied, rises in the Alleghany chain, opposite to 
the sources of Cheat and Youghioghany branches of Monongahela, at lat. 
39° 10' long, from Washington city, 2° 30' W. Flowing thence N. E. 30 
miles, receives from the north, Savage river, and bending to S. E. 10 miles, 
traverses one or two minor chains of mountains, and returning to N. E. 18 
miles to the influx of Will's creek, from the north at Cumberland. NoAva 
considerable stream, by a very tortuous channel, but direct distance 15 
miles to S. E., the Potomac below Cumberland, breaks through several 
chains of mountains to the influx of South Branch. The latter is in length 
of course, and area drained, the main branch. The various sources of this 
mountain river originate in Pendleton county, Virginia, lat. 38° 25', be- 
tween the Alleghany and Kittatinny chains. Assuming a general course 
of N. E., the branches unite in Hardy county, near Moorfields, below 
which, in a distance comparative course of 40 miles to its union with the N. 
Branch, the South Branch receives no considerable tributary. The volume 
formed by both branches, breaks through a mountain chain immediately be- 
low their junction, and bending to N. E. by comparative distance of 25 
miles, but by a very winding channel reaches its extreme northern point at 
Hancock's town, lat. 39° 41', and within less than two miles south of the 
southern boundary of Pennsylvania. Passing Hancock's town the Potomac 
again inflects to S. E., and as above \xinds by a very crooked channel, but 
by comparative course of 35 miles to the influx of Shenandoah from the 
southward. 



OF VIRGINIA. 51 

Shenandoah is the longest branch of Potomac, having a comparative 
length of 130 miles, and brings down a volume of water but little inferior 
to that of the main stream. It has its most remote sources in Augusta 
county, V-^irginia, interlocks sources with those of Great Calf Pasture 
branch of James river, and by Blue Ridge, is separated from those of Rivan- 
na, as far soutii aslal. 3?'^ 5a', almost exactly due west of the entrance of Po- 
tomac into Chesapeake bay. The elongated valley of Shenandoah is part 
of the great mountain valley of Kittatinny, and comprises nearly all the 
counties of Augu>ta, Rockingham, Page and Shenandoah, with the eastern 
sections of Frederick and Jelferson. The upper valley of Potomac, inclu- 
ding that of Shenandoah is in length from S. W. to N. E. 160 miles, where 
broadest 75 miles, but has a mean breadth of 50 miles, area 8,000 
square miles. The water level of Potomac at Harper's Ferry is 288 feet 
above lide water; therefore we may assume at 350 feet the lowest arable 
land in the valley above the Blue Ridge. This is equivalent to a degree 
of latitude on the aerial temperature at the lowest point of depression. So 
rapid is the rise, however, in crossing the valley to the foot of Alleghany 
mountain, that an allowance of 1,200 feet is rather too moderate an estimate 
for the extremes of cultivated soil. 

Pas.^ing the Blue Ridge, with partial windings, the Potomac continues 
S. E. by comparative courses 50 miles to the lower falls and head of ocean 
tides at Georgetown. Having in the intermediate distance received the 
Monocacy river, from the north, and some minor creeks from the south; 
like the Delav/are, below Trenton, and the higher part of Chesapeake 
biy. below the mouth of Sasquehannah the Potomac, meeting the tide, bends 
along the outer margin of the prim,ilive rock. It is indeed very remarka- 
ble that the three bends, in the three consecutive rivers, follow almost ex- 
actly the same geographical line; or flow from head of tide water, S. W. — 
the Delaware 60, Chesapeake 40, and Potomac 45 miles, — the latter a few 
miles below the place at which it retires from the primitive rocks, reaches 
within six miles of the Rappahannock, below Fradericksburg. The two 
latter rivers not far from parallel to each other, assume a comparative course 
75 miles to the N. E., the intermediate peninsula being no where above 22 
miles wide, and the distance from the south side of the mouth of the Poto- 
mac, to the north side of that of the Rappahannock, is only 20 miles. 

Combining the two sections above and below the Blue Ridge, the whole 
basin of the Potomac embraces an area of 12,950 square miles, extending 
from lat. 37° 50' to 40°, r>.nd in long. 0° 45' E. to 2° 45' W. of Washington 
citJ^ The winding of its tide water channel renders the navigation of the 
Potomac bay (for such it is below George Town,) tedious though not dan- 
gerous. The channel has sufficient depth to admit ships of the line of 74 
guns to the navy yard at Wasliington. 

With its defects and advantages as an agricultural and commercial sec- 
tion, — the basin of the Potomac is a very interesting object in physical and 
political geography; — deriving its sources from the main Appalachian 
spine, the Potomac has worn its channel through the intervening chains to 
their bases; and performed an immense disproportion of the necessary task 
to effect a water rout into the valley of the Ohio, — i,uch a rout has been 
commenced under the nam.e of Chesapeake and Ohio canal, and is yet in 
progress. The Potomac is eight mi!»='S wide at its mouth, four and a half at 
Nomony bay, three at Acquia, one and a half at Plollooing point, and ono 
and a half at Alexandria. 



5:> "GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

Its soundings are seven fathoms at its mouth, five at St. Georges island, 
four and a half at Lower Matchodie, three at Swan's point and up to Alexan- 
dria, thence 20 feet of water to the falls, which are 13 miles above Alexan- 
dria'. These falls are 15 miles in length, and of very great descent, and the 
navigation above them for batteaux and canoes is so much interrupted as to 
be little used, It is however used in a small degree up the Cohongoronta 
branch as far as Cumberland, at the mouth of Wills's creek; and is 
capable of being made navigable at no grerat expence. The Shenandoah 
branch interlocks with the sources of James river, near the Blue Ridge. 

Rappahannock river, formed by two branches, Hedgeman's and 
Thornton's rivers, both deriving their remote sources from Blue Ridge.- 
Hedo-eman's river, after a comparative course of 30 miles, between Fauquier 
and Culpeper counties, receives Thornton's river from the latter, arid the 
united waters continuing the course of the former S. E. 20 miles, join the 
Rapid Ann. A navigable river at the junction of its two main branches, 
the Rappahannock, continues to the S. E. 10 miles to its lowest falls, where 
it traverses the primitive ledge, and meets the ocean tides at Fredericksburg. 
Similar to the Delaware, and all the large western tributaries of Chesapeake 
bay, the Rappahannock turns after passing the primitive rock, but after a 
short curve to the southward, this stream resumes a S. E. course, which 
with a rather tortuous channel it maintains to Leeds, in Westmoreland county, 
where it approaches to within five miles of Potomac, at the mouth of Mat- 
fox creek. Gradually widening, and with the features of a long, narrow- 
bay of 55 miles, the Rappahannock by a S. S, E. course, is lost in Chesa- 
peake bay between Windmill and Stingray points. The tide ascends this 
channel to the falls at Fredericksburg, something above 100 miles, admit- 
ting vessels of considerable tonnage. In all the distance below the union 
of its two main branches, it does not receive any accession above the size of 
a small creek. The entire basin is 140 miles by a mean width of 20; area 
2,800 square miles. Extending in lat. from 37° 34' to 38° 44', and in long. 
from 0° 41' east to 1° 22' west of Washington. 

Rapid Ann river, deriving its remote sources from the Blue 
Rido-e, and flowing thence S. E. 20 miles across the valley, between 
Blue Ridge and South East mountain, turns thence N. E. 15 miles to the 
influx of Robertson's river from the N. W. Passing South East mountain 
and inflecting to a general eastern course of 30 miles, it joins the Rappahan- 
nock 10 miles above Fredericksburg, after a comparative course of 65 miles. 
In nearly the whole of its length Rapid Ann separates Orange count}/- first 
35 miles from Madison, and thence 25 from Culpeper. At their junction 
it is superior in volume to Rappahannock; and exceeding also in length, of 
course, the Rapid Ann is the main stream. 

RivANNA river, a branch of James river, is navigable to its intersection 
Avith the South West mountain, which is about 22 miles. The navigation 
has lately been opened by dams and canals, and it is now navigable to Pi- 
reus, within one mile and a quarter of Charlottesville. 

Rock creek, a small stream of Maryland, and of the District of Columbia, 
gains importance only as it separates the city of Washington from George- 
town. This creek has its extreme source about four miles westward of Me- 
chanicsville, Montgomery county, Maryland, heading with the east branch 
of' Potomac river, at an elevation above tide water at Georgetown of 500 
fvct. The entire length of the creek, follov/ing its valley, is about 28 miles. 



OF VIRUIMA. 535 

The full bfiiig upwards of 17 feet to the mile, and that fall being in niany 
places far above the mean, renders it an excellent mill-stream. 

RoANOKK river, of Virginia and North Carolina. Taken in the ntmost 
extent, Roanoke basin is the same as Albemarle, and includes the sub-basins 
or rallies of Roanoke proper, and Chowan river. Advancing from south 
to north, all the rivers beyond the Roanoke, have their most remote foun- 
tains on the Atlantic side of Blue Ridge; but with the Roanoke a new fea- 
ture appears. The Blue Ridge is pierced by that stream, Avhich derives its 
higher fountains from the main Alleghany chain in Montgomery county, 
Virginia, and within eight miles of the main channel of New river, and at 
an elevation without estimating the mountain ridges, of at least 2,000 feet. 
Issuing by numerous creeks from this elevated tract, and uniting into one 
stream near the border between Montgomery and Botetourt ^counties, it is 
here literally "The Rapid Roanoke," having at Salem, in the latter county, 
fallen 1,000 feet in little more than 20 miles. At Salem the water level is 
1,002 feet by actual admeasurement, above mean Atlantic tide. Below Sa- 
lem the river inflects 20 miles in an eastern course, to its passage through 
Blue Ridge, and thence S. E. 2.i miles to its passage through South East 
mountain. Passing South East mountain between Bedford and Pittsylvania 
counties, the now navigable volume sweeps by an elliptic curve to north- 
ward, and round to S. E. 50 miles comparative course, to the influx of Dan 
river, entering its right side from the west part. Below the junction of 
these two rivers, the united waters in a course a little south of east 60 
miles by comparative distance, reach tide water at Weldon, having fallen 
by a lengthened cataract over the primitive ledge. About midway between 
the influx of Dan river and Weldon, Roanoke leaves Virginia and enters 
North Carolina. Mingling with the tide, the Roanoke by a very tortuous 
channel, but b}" comparative course flows South East 50 miles, and thence 
eastward 25 miles to its junction with Chowan river at the head of Albe- 
marle sound. The entire valley of Roanoke, if measured along the main 
stream or Dan river is 250 miles, but the rivers wind over this space by 
channels of much greater length. By comparative courses it is 155 miles 
from Salem to Weldon, whilst from a report made by the Roanoke compa^ 
ny, the intermediate channel is 244 miles. Taking these proportions, the 
length of this river by its meanders is about 400 miles. Including the whole 
Albemarle basin, it is 290 miles from its outlet into the Atlantic ocean, Id 
the fountains of Roanoke in Alleghany mountain, but with the Chowan' 
and Dan A-allies united to that of the principal river, the basin is compara- 
tively narrow, being only 80 miles where broadest, and not having a mean 
breadth above 50 miles, or an area exceeding 14,500 square miles. It is 
not, however, its extent which gives most interest to the Roanoke or Albe- 
marle basin ; it is at once a fine physical section and physical limit. The 
difference of arable level, amounts to at least 2,000 feet, and no two regions 
of the earth can differ in every feature more than do the truly beautiful hills 
and vales on each side of the Appalachian chains, from the stagnant marshes 
and level plains towards the Atlantic ocean. Along the loAver Roanoke 
commences, advancing from the north the profitable cultivation of cotton, 
the fig tree begins to appear, rice can be produced, and in summer the ad' 
A'ance towards the tropics is felt, and very distinctly seen on vegetation. 
Ascending the basin, the aspect of the northern states gradually appears, 
both on the features of nature and on cultivated vegetables. Wheat, rye, 
and other small grain, with meadow grasses, and the apple, llourish. The 



54 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

summers are cooler, and the winters have the severity suitable to relative 
elevation. Though the higher part of Roanoke is annually frozen, and for 
a shorter or longer period rendered unnavigable in winter, with lower Roan- 
oke commences the region on the Atlantic coast where navigation remains 
open at all seasons. It is true that even Albemarle sound has been occa- 
sionally impeded with ice, but this phenomenon is rare. As a navigable 
channel following either branch, the importance of this basin is lessened by 
the shallowness of Albemarle sound — an irremovable impediment. At 
present, however, there is in progress a scheme for connecting, by 
rail-road, the navigable tide water below Weidon with Chesapeake bay. 
In its actual state the rivers are navigable for boats to Salem on the Roan- 
oke, and to Danbury in North Carolina by Dan river. This was effected 
by side canals, sluices and other artificial improvements. 

Sandy river, of Virginia and Kentucky, is composed of two branches, 
called relatively East fork and West fork, East fork, the main constituent 
of Sandy, rises in the Appalachian valleys, interlocking sources with those 
of Great Kanawha to the east, and with those of Holstonand Clinch branches 
of Tennessee river to the S. E, Issuing from this elevated region, and 
draining part of Tazewell and Logan counties, Virginia, the Sandy river 
pursues a N. W. direction by comparative courses 50 miles, to its passage 
through Cumberland mountain. Becoming a boundary between Virginia 
and Kentucky below the Cumberland chain, Sandy assumes a direction of 
N. N. W. 70 miles, separating Logan and Cabell counties, of Virginia, 
from Floyd, Lawrence, and Grreenup counties, of Kentucky, to its final in- 
flux into Ohio river opposite Burlington, Ohio. West Sandy rises in Rus- 
sell and Tazewell counties, Virginia, and assuming a N. W. direction pierces 
the Cumberland chain, enters Kentuckj^ and after traversing Pike and Floyd 
counties, bends to the northward and joins East Sandy in Lawrence county. 
The valley of Sandy river has that of Tennessee river S., Kentucky S. W., 
Licking W., that of Ohio N., GJuyandotte E., and Great Kanawha S. E. 
It is about 100 miles long, mean width 35, and area 3,500 square miles. 

Shenandoah river, one of the great southern branches of Potomac river, 
is composed of two branches, called with no great relatiA-e correctness, 
North Branch and South Branch. The southern and main branch rises in 
Augusta county, as far south as latitude 38°, and long. 2° west of Wash- 
ington City. Flowing thence northeastward along the northwestern slope 
of Blue Ridge, over Augusta, Rockingham, and Page counties, receives 
the North Branch in the southern angle of Federick county, after a com- 
parative course of 90 miles. 

The North Branch of Shenandoah river has its source in Rockingham 
county, from which it flows by comparative courses N. N. E. 50 miles over 
Rockingham and Shenandoah counties, enters Frederick, bends to the east- 
ward, and joins the South Branch as already noticed. Below the junction 
of its two branches, the Shenandoah flows N. E. along the N. W. slope of 
Blue Ridge 40 miles to its junction with the Potomac at Harper's Ferry. 

Tennessek river, of the state of the same name, and of the states of 
Kentucky, Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia, North Carolina, and Virginia, is 
the great southeastern constituent of the Ohio. The very peculiar features 
of the valley of Tennessee, demand a general and particular notice. This 
valley is naturally divided into two phA'sical sections; the higher or moun- 
tainous, and the lower cr h'"v. Thr mcf;t remote "curce'; ef Tennessee are 



OF VIP.GLMA. 55 

fouml in tliosc of Clinch, in Tazewell, and of llolstun in Wythe counties, 
of Virginia, interlocking sources with those of Sandy and Groat Kanawha. 
From this elevated origin, the main constituents pursue a southwestern 
course between the two parallel chains of the Appalachian system, Cum- 
berland, and the main spine, both stretching in a similar direction with the 
rivers, at a mean distance of about 70 miles asunder. Besides this princi- 
pal valley, another of less width between the main chain and Blue Kido-e, 
is also drained by the constituents of Tennessee; but this more eastern and 
more elevated valley slopes to the N. W., at right angles to the mountain 
chains. The latter mountain valley comprises the North Carolina and 
Georgia part of the valley of Tennessee. Including both minor vallies, 
upper Tennessee drains an elongated ellipise of 350 miles lono-cr axis- 
shorter axis 1-20 miles from the Blue Ridge at the sources of French Broad, 
to Cumberland mountain, where it separates the sources of Powell's river 
from those of Cumberland: mean breadth 80 miles, and area 24,000 square 
miles. Descending from the extreme fountains in Virginia, the valley 
widens as the mountain chains recede from each other, and again contracts 
as the same chains gradually re-approach each other at the northwestern 
angle of Georgia, and northeastern of Alabama. At the latter point, well 
known by the name of Nickajack, all the large tributaries have united, and the 
Blue Ridge and Cumberland chains have inclined to within less than 40 
miles of each other. Below Nickajack, the now large volume of Tennes- 
see continues S. W. 60 miles, without receiving a single creek of 20 miles 
course, the two bounding mountain chains still inclining upon each other, 
till their approaching bases force the river through the Cumberland chain. 
To one whose eye first glanced on the volume of Tennessee, below its pas- 
sage through Cumberland mountain, without previous knowledge of the 
valley above, no adequate idea would occur, that before it, flowed the accu- 
mulated waters of a mountainous region of 24,000 square miles extent. In 
fact, to an observer, thus placed, the main volume of Tennessee would ap- 
pear as one of the constituents of a river valley below the Cumberland 
chain. About 20 miles below the passage of Tennessee river through it, 
the Cumberland mountain receives the Blue Ridge, if such a term can be 
correctly applied to the merging of two mountain chains. Here, along the 
northern sources of Mobile basin, the Appalachian system changes its dis- 
tinctive character, and the confused masses of hills follow each other west- 
wardly toward the Mississippi. The Tennessee river deflects rather more 
than does the mountain system, and flows N. W. by W. by comparative 
courses 120 miles, to the northwestern angle of Alabama, and the northeast- 
ern of Mississippi, where this large stream again bends at nearly right an- 
gles, and pursues a course of a very little west of north 150 miles, to its en- 
trance into the Ohio, after an entire comparative course of 680 miles. 

The second great section of Tennessee, and the lower part of the first, 
below Nickajack, are comprised in the fine noiihern valley of Alabama. 
The main volume flowing along the base of a physical line extending from 
the Ohio valley in the vicinity of Pittsburg, to the northern part of the ba- 
sin of Mobile. The very striking coincidence of the river inflections be- 
tween the extremes of this region, must appear to the most inattentive ob- 
server of a good map of that part of the United States. This regularity of 
structure is evinced by the great inflections of Ohio, Knnav/ha, Kentucky. 
Green. Cumberland, and Tennessee rivers. The Tennessee itself literally 
occupies the base of the physical region indicated, as in all its comparative 



5G GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

course below Nickajack, or its entrance into Alabama, of 330 miles, it does 
not receive a single stream above the size of a large creek, nor does the outer 
selvedge of its valley on the left, in Alabama, Mississippi, Tennessee, and 
Kentucky, exceed a mean breadth of 20 miles. On the right, embosomed 
between Tennessee and Cumberland rivers, and comprising- central Tennes- 
see, and northern Alabama, spreads a physical region, extending from Cum- 
berland mountain to the lower reach of Tennessee river, 130 miles, with a 
mean breadth of 80 miles, and an area of 10,400 square miles. This beau- 
tiful tract is semi-circled by the main volume of Tennessee, and drained by 
Elk river, Duck river, and innumerable creeks. Belov,' Duck river, how- 
ever, Tennessee receives no stream from either side of any magnitude wor- 
thy notice in a general vieAv. Including all its sections, the lower valley 
of Tennessee comprises an area of 17,600 square miles; and the whole val- 
ley embraces a superficies of 41,600 square miles. This extent of Tennes- 
see valley, if compared with the whole valley of Ohio, spreads over nearl}' 
one-fifth part, and gives to Tennessee the first rank among the tributaries 
of Ohio. Amongst the peculiar features of the course of Tennessee, the 
most remarkable is, that rising as far north as lat. 37° 10', and curving 
thence southward to lat. 34° 23', it again recurves back to its original lati- 
tude, and falls into the Ohio river almost exactly due west from its primi- 
tive springs in Tazewell county; thus embosoming nearly the whole large 
valley of Cumberland, and part of that of Crreen river. Geographically, 
Tennessee valley lies between north lat. 34° 10' and 37° 10', and in long, 
between 4° 15' and 11° 40' west of Washington. It is the first and largest, 
advancing from the south, of those streams gushing from the elevated slopes 
of the Appalachian ridges, and which flow westward into the great basin 
of the Mississippi. In~"relative height, there is above 1,700 feet difierence 
between the highest and lowest extremes of Tennessee valley. The arable 
surface of Tazewell and Wythe counties, from which the fountains of Ka- 
nawha and Holston have their origin, must be at least 2,000 feet above the 
Atlantic tides; whilst that of Ohio river, at the influx of Tennessee, but lit- 
tle exceeds 300 feet. The difference is fully an equivalent for 4° of latitude, 
and accounts for the rapid changes of climate experienced on lines of lati- 
tude in Tennessee. The current of every branch of Tennessee is very rapid, 
though direct falls are rare, and even dangerous shoals are not common. 
Of the latter, those particularly called Muscle Shoals, between Lauderdale and 
Lawrence counties, Alabama, are most remarkable and difficult to navigate. 
The whole river, however, having a mean fall exceeding two feet to the 
mile, is only favorable to down stream navigation, which it admits in most 
of its branches to near their sources. 

Tye river, a small river of Virginia, rising in the Blue Ridge, and flowing 
southeastward into James river, after draining part of Nelson and Amherst 
counties, and by one of its constituents, Piney river, forming for some feAv 
miles the boundary between those counties. 

York river of Virginia, formed by two main branches, Pamunky and 
Mattapony. BeloAv the union of its constituent streams, York river is ra- 
ther a bay, varying from two to three miles in width, extending to the S. E. 
27 miles, and thence cast 12 miles, into Chesapeake, between York and 
Gloucester counties. Below the junction of Pamunky and Mattapony ri- 
rivers; York bay does not receive a tributary above the size of a small 
creek. It admits ships of any size to or near the Great Bend at York- 
town, but above admits only coasting vessels. Including all its tributaries. 



OF VIRGINIA, 57 

Inc valley of York river lies betAvcen those of James and Rappahannock. 
The greatest length 120 miles from the mouth of York river to the ex- 
treme source of North Anna river, in South West mountain; but, if taken 
with this extent the mean width Avould not exceed 20 miles, and at the ut- 
most breadth, only about 45 miles. The area 2,000 square miles. Exten- 
ding in lat. from 37^ 15' to 38^ IG', and in long, from 0° 41' E. to 1° 22' 
W. of Washington. 

YouGuioGHANY rivcT of Pennsylvania, Maryland and Virginia, having 
its most remote sources in Preston county of the latter state, but deriving its 
most numerous southern tributaries from the valley between the Back Bono 
and Laurel mountains, Alloghany county, Maryland. From this elevated 
tract the main stream flows nearly due north 35 miles, enters Pennsylva- 
nia between Fayette and Somerset counties, within which it thence flows 
about eight miles direct course to where it is joined by Castleman's river, an 
equal or probably a superior stream, entering from the N. E. Some of the 
southern fountains of Castleman's river, rise in Alleghany count}'-, Mary- 
laud, but the greater part of its tributaries flow from Somerset county; 
Pennsylvania, and rise in the same valley with the confluents of Youghio- 
ghany. Below the union of the two main branches the Youghioghany 
assuming a northwestern course, continues in that direction GO miles to its 
j-anctionVith the Monongahela at MacKees port, in Alleghany county. 
Where Youghioghany is \ra versed by the United States road at Smrthfield, 
the water level is 1,405 feel above that of the Atlantic. The extreme heads 
of this stream have an elevation exceeding 2,500 feet; the mouth being ele- 
vated about 700 feet, the entire fall must be 1,800 feet. The whole valley 
ef Youghioghany is either mountainous or very hilly and broken, 

CLIMATE. 

The following article was received too late for inscrtioli in its proper 
place, but we insert it here as aftbrding some evidence of attention and ob- 
servation upon a subject of Avhich our men of science have been too negli- 
gent; and which requires the joint and persevering labor of many hands 
to afford any thing like accurate detail or valuable information. 

At the discovery of our continent it presented an immense forest untouch- 
ed by human labor. The majestic rivers of the new world, swelling by 
every shower, inundated the Avhole country, and left in their track numer- 
ous marshes and extensive lakes. The woods were hid with rank luxu- 
riance, while the exuberant undergrowth of herbs, shrubs, and weeds, gave 
to the prospect that gloomy and repulsive solitude whicli was so aptly de- 
scribed by the first s^cUle-rs as /A< wilderness. The earth could not retam 
the heat of the sun, nor could this effbctbe produced by the mass of foliage. 
The air stagnated in the forest. Oflbnsive exhalations arose ft-om the nu- 
merous marshes, and the accumulated d.-cay oi' vegetation, while the whole 
land was rife with the pestilence of malaria. . ^ t c 

We cannot always arrive at deflnite conclusions of the^ climate of any 
country by barely measuring its degrees of distance from the equator. Its 
character "is controlled by many other direct causes. Extent of territory- 
nature of soil— height of mountains and elevation above the sea, greatly 
affect it The extent of our northern seas, AVith the ice which continues 
there from year to year, gives to every wind which blows over them an 
intense cold. A chain of gigantic mountains spread their snow-capped 



58 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

summits througliout the heart of our continent. The winds which blow 
over them become deeply surcharged with cold, whose piercing severity is 
not diminished until it has extended far down upon our southern sea coast. 
Our daily experience attests the truth of this fact. 

The climate of Virginia has not been stationary. To trace its character- 
istics is to follow the varying passions of the coquette — now enticing by 
seductive smiles — and now chilling by capricious frowns. Yet it is the 
clime under whose genial influence we have been bred, and we can easily 
forget its vicissitudes in the glittering canopy of life and beauty which it 
throws around every scene. Those Avho have dwelt amid the sunny clime 
of Italy — the fierce heat of Spain, and the elastic air of France, can appre- 
ciate from the test of comparison, the softness of a Virginian day — and how- 
splenetic soever we may be, it never has gloom enough to make us "damn 
it as a lord." 

Captain John Smith, in his faithful and spirited History of the Colony of 
Virginia, makes many allusions to its climate, and with a proper allowance 
for his zeal in coloring the advantages of a settlement in the colony, we 
may receive his statements as the honest opinions of a careful and accurate 
observer. 

" The sommer (says he) is hot as in Spaine, the winter cold as in France 
or England. The heate of sommer is in June, July, and August, but com' 
monly the cool breezes asswage the vehernency of the heate. The chief 
of the winter is halfe December, January, February, andhalfe March. The 
cold is extreme sharpe, but here the proverbe is true 'that no extreme long 
continueth.' Sometimes there are great droughts, other times much raine, 
yet greater necessitie of neither, by reason Ave see not but that all the raritie 
of needful fruites in Europe may be there in great plentie by the Industrie of 
man." In an earnest appeal to the friends of the colony, he again recoHti- 
mends it for the "mildnesss of the ayre and the fertilitie of the soyle " 

This sketch of the colony is studiously silent as to the existence of marsh- 
es, though much of the ill health of the first emigrants, may be traced to 
them.* In giving an account of the bays, rivers, and brooks, our author 
incidentally remarks that "by the rivers are many plain marshes contain- 
ing some twenty, some one hundred and some two hundred acres. But lit- 
tle of grasse there is but what groweth in low marshes." In the advance of 
population and agricultural improvement, these inarshes Avere gradually're- 
duced. Mr. Nathaniel Causecy, who had lived in Virginia with Captain 
Smith, states in the year 1G27, "that whereas the country was heretofore 
held_ most intemperate and contagious by many, noAv they have houses, 
lodging, and victuals, and the sun hath power to exhale up the moist vapors 
of the earth Avhere they have cut down the woods, which before it could not, 
being covered with spreading tops of high trees, they find it much more 
heahhful than before." Captain Butler, a gallant pioneer of the neAv world, 
and at one time governor of Bermuda, on his return to England from Vir- 
ginia in the year 1624, presented to Charles I. a pamphlet" entitled, " TMe 
unmasked face of our colons/ in Virginia as it was in the winter 1622." 
In this work he draws a lamentable picture of the struggles of the infant 
colony, and asserts "that the English plantations are gerierally seated on 
marshes, lakes, and infectious bogs, which have subjected the planters to the 

♦ In the reply of Goveraor Berkeley to the enquiries of the Lords Commissioners 
of Foreign Planlalions, m 1671, he states " that .all new plantatvmf. are for an a°-e or two 
unhealthy, until they are thoroughly cleared of wood." 2 Hen. Stat, at Large 515 



OF VIRGINIA. 59 

inconvenisncos and diseases prevalent in the most unlieaUhy parts of Eng- 
land." This pamphlet excited much hostility against the Virginian Com- 
pany, which was artfully fermented by Charles I. who was thtn secretly 
planning the ruin of that noble and patriotic association. Some of the 
members of the companj^ who had been in Vircfinii united in an address to 
the public, in which they state "that they had found the air of Virginia to 
be as wholesome and the soil for the most part as fertile as in any part of 
England." The House of Burgesses in a curious memorial of resentment, 
ill humor, and personal sarcasm, pronounced the charges of Capt. Butler to 
bo false and slanderous, and informed the king "that no bogs have been 
seen here, by any that have lived here twice as many years as Capt. Butler 
did weeks in the country — the places which he so miscalls being the richest 
parts of the earth, if we had a sufficient force to clear their woods and to give 
the fresh springs which pass through them a free passage. The soil is gen- 
erally rich and restores our trust with abundance. The air is sweet and the 
clime healthful, all circumstances considered, to men of sound bodies and 
good government." 

In 1624 the Virginian Company in petitioning parliament for encour- 
agement and protection, earnestly recommended the colony "for that tem- 
perature of climate which agreed well with the English." Smith often 
makes similar comparisons, and it is evident from the writings of our ear- 
liest historians, that the climate of Virginia differed but little from that of 
England. The immense mass of vegetation which overshadowed the coun- 
try, filled it with fogs and vapors, assimilating it to that of England, and 
lendering it extremely cold in its winters, and tardy in its summers. It was 
less affected by the standard temperature of the sea than England, and was 
marked with more striking vicissitudes. The cold winter of 1607, which 
was felt throughout all Europe* was, in the language of Smith, found "as 
extreame in Virginia." There were also many unseasonable years, and 
others singularly propitious to the agriculture of the country. The year 
1610 was long recollected by the epithet of the starving time, while in the 
year 1619 two crops of rare-rips corn were made. Among many of the 
acts of the House of Burgesses regulating the trade of the country, Ave find 
one which prohibits the exportation of Indian com "on account of the un- 
seasonableness of the last two summers." 

As the country was gradually cleared of its forests and undergrowth, the 
climate became dry, temperate, and warm. The act of the House of Bur- 
gesses of 170.5, which directed the capitolto be built at Williamsburg, re- 
cites, "that this place hath been found by constant experience to be healthy 
and agreeable to the constitutions of this his majesty's colon)'- and domin- 
ion, having the natural advantages of a serene and temperate air, and dry 
and champaign land." A correspondent to the Royal Philosophical Socie- 
ty, who wrote an account of Virginia about this period, says "that the win- 
ters are dry and clear — the spring is earlier than that of England. Snow 
falls in great quantities, but seldom lies above a day or two, and the frosts, 
though quick and sharpe, seldom last long. July and xVugust are sultry 
hot. while September is noted for prodigious showers of ram. _ The north 
and N. W. winds are either very sharp and piercing, or boisterous and 
stormy, and the S. E. and south hazy and sultry." 



♦ In this year at Paris the beard of Henr\' IV, ^^as frozen in bed cum rcgina. Sul- 
Ij's Mem. Vol. IV. 262. 



60 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

From the want of accurate observations, and those careful collections of 
meteorological facts which elucidate the character of all climates, our spe- 
culations on that of Virginia must be necessarily vague and indefinite, and 
for the nicer shades of its changes, we are forced to substitute the broader 
features of its outline. Our climate is uniform only in its sudden vicissi- 
tudes. Its consistency is impaired by many causes, which have produced 
a difference of temperature dependant on the deeply marked geographical 
distinctions of our sea board, tide water, valley, and mountainous regions. 
My observations have been principally confined to that intermediate country, 
between the Chesapeake and the South West Mountains, on the low and 
moist lands of the Matapony, in latitude north 38° 6', and about seventy 
miles south of Washington City. While I am forced in my examination 
of the temperature of other parts of the state, to rely on statements often in- 
accurate in their conception and irrelevant in their details. 

Thestandard temperature of every country is regulated by that of the le- 
vel of the ocean. According to the researches of Professor Leslie, the 
mean temperature at the level of the sea, in our latitude, is between 67° 
and 71°, which gradually diminishes from that level, until it reaches the 
point of perpetual congelation. Pure air is not heated by the sun's rays 
which pass through it. The solar rays must be stopped by the earth, col- 
lected and reflected before any heat can be given to the atmosphere. In tak- 
ing a standard, we assume the sea, which affords a fairer criterion of uni- 
form temperature, than the mean heat of springs and wells. Neither does 
the sea retain the extreme of heat or cold which Ave find in the earth. A 
eold wind blowing over this volume of salt water, necessarily cools its sur- 
face, which from its increase of specific gravity, sinks and gives place to 
an inferior warmer wave. The action of the wind in rippling the surface 
of the water, and the influence of tide and currents conspire in bringing 
the Avarmer water to the level of the sea to mitigate the coldness of the 
wind; this action continues till the whole water is so far cooled that it be- 
comes susceptible of frost. When frozen it is no longer warmed from the 
inferior water, but blows on with increased rigor. A Avarm wind takes a 
portion of cold as it passes over the surface of the sea, and becomes reduced 
to the mean temperature ot that body. The sea breeze so prevalent in Eas- 
tern Virginia is cool, as much from the standard heat of the ocean, as from 
its rapidity of motion. It is cooler in Virginia than in the West Indies, 
and often since the opening of the country, spreads its elastic freshness to 
the foot of the South West Mountains. There is a sensible and striking 
difference between the temperature of Eastern and Western Virginia, The 
former from its vicinity to the sea coast, becomes tempered into more gen- 
tleness; Avhile its earlier A-egetation shoM's the greater poAA^er of its soil to 
retain heat. In the latter the Avinters arc longer and more severe, yet the 
farmer may there admire the Avisdom of that providence, Avhich in increas- 
ing the rigor of the frost, melloAVS and crumbles the land for the purposes 
of agriculture, Avhile the light soils of the east require no such agency. 

In the course of five yeart<, from 1772 to 1777, Mr, .Tefierson made many 
observations on the temperature at Williamsburg, and having reduced them 
to an average for each month in the year, lie has given us the results of the 
greatest daily heat of the several seasons.* I have before me a series of 
careful observations compiled by that accurate thinker, and accomplished 

* Notes on Vii'gininj Query 7. 



UF VIRGINIA. 



61 



scholar, the late David Watson, (of Louisa county,) in a similar period of 
five years, from 1823 to 1828. His residence was near the South West 
mountains, and in a country comparatively thickly covered with wood. The 
result of his ohservations and those of Mr. Jefferson, niakino- a distance ia 
time of r>2 years, and of soutlieru latiuide in favor uf Williamsburg, is here 
submitted ; 



MR. 


JEFFERSON 3. 




MU. 


WATSO? 


* s. 




January, 


38^" to 


44° 


.January, 


36 


to 


44 


February, 


41 to 


47^ 


February, 


35 


to 


40 


March, 


48 to 


54i 


March, " 


44 


to 


40 


April, 


50 to 


62i 


April, 


56 


to 


GO 


May, 


G3 to 


70^ 


May, 


61 


to 


60 


June, 


7 U to 


78| 


June, 


71 


to 


79 


July, 


77 to 


82. \ 


July, 


80 


to 


84 


August, 


761 to 


81 


August, 


81 


to 


84 


September, 


601 to 


74:1 


September, 


74 


to 


77 


October, 


61i to 


66,1 


Oetober, 


50 


to 


63 


November, 


47^ to 


531 


November, 


46 


to 


54 


December, 


43 to 


48-5 


December, 


40 


to 


44 



The coolest and warmest parts of the day were separately added, and an 
average of the greatest cold and heat of that day was formed. From the 
averages of every day in the month, a general average for the whole month 
was deduced. In following this mode of analysis, there are many slight 
features of discrepancy between the statements of Mr. Jefferson^ and Mi\ 
Watson, which considerably impair the correctness of the comparison. Mr. 
AVatson's thermometer was' suspended in a passage, far removed from the 
action of fire, in a house constructed of wood; and the calculation of his 
table is based on observations made between the hours of 10 A. M. and 3 
P. M. Mr. Jefferson is silent as to the situaUmi of his thermometer, while 
it appears that he has reckoned from the hours of 8 A. M. to 4 P. M. 

The hottest period of these five years, observed by Mr. Watson, was in 
July, 182.5, Avhen tlie thermometer'on several days rose above 90°, and the 
hottest month was in August, 1828. The coldest period was during the 
month of January, 1827, and the warmest winter was in 1828-29. 

My own observations made during a period of four years, from 1829 to 
1834, cannot be calculated for an average temperature. Many days and 
even months from my absence from home, Avere necessarily unnoticed. 
Those periods which are recorded differ but little in their particular and 
daily results, from those of Mr. Watson; while I have noticed his singular 
omission — the prevalence of the winds, and the "fantastic tricks" \yith which 
our climate so playfully disports. From my observations, I am induced to 
place the nican temperature of our climate at 55°; thus varying according 
to natural and artificial causes several degrees from the standard tempera- 
ture of the sea. 

The year 1831 was characterised by many vicissitudes of heat and cold. 
On the "27th February the mercury sunk to 7°, while in July and August 
it frequently rose to 86° and 94°. ' The ensuing winters of 1831 and 1832 
Avereunconimonly rigorous, snow fell in great quantities, and in many places 
continued on the £rround till the 4th of March. Early frost did much inju- 
ry to vegetation, while the cold was but slightly removed from the earth 



62 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

until late in the ensuing- summer. The spring of 1834 was attended by- 
severe frosts, which resembled in their destructive character, those which 
had rendered the year 1816 proverbial. They committed great devastations 
in April, and on the 15th, 16th, and 17th of May, the Indian corn on our 
low lands, and the leaves of the garden and forest trees were scathed and 
blighted to a degree precluding, in many cases, all hope of restoration. 

In Virginia the transitions from heat to cold are sudden, and sometimes 
to very extreme degrees; often in the day time the mercury will stand at 
94° or 81°, and will fall in the course of a kw hours to 60° and 50°. Mr. 
Jefferson informs us that the mercury has been known to descend from 92° 
to 47° in thirteen hours. I have frequently noted vicissitudes of a similar 
kind, and when the change is accompanied by a S. E. wind and rain, the 
air becomes cold, raw and disagreeable. We have few summers in which 
a fire is not often required. On the 1st of May, 1827, there was a light 
fall of snow at Gloucester Court House,* while it is not uncommon to see 
slight frosts in August. In our winter the cold weather, though severe, is 
short, and the frequent snows of the night are generally removed before the 
sunset of the ensuing day. Water in ponds is slowly congealed, and rare- 
ly makes ice thick enough for preservation, until it has been chilled by a 
fall of snow — again, its production is very rapid; rivers half of a mile' in 
breadth, will be frozen over in the course of one night, sufficiently firm to 
bear men and horses. f In the month of January, 1827, many of those 
short yet Avide salt streams, Avhich wash the shores of Gloucester county, 
were frozen to the extent of thirty or forty feet from the land. This rigo- 
rous cold is rarely of much duration. Sustained, and principally created 
by north and northeastern winds, it quickly yields to the shifting of the 
wind to any other point. Some of our winters are so temperate and mild, 
that the cattle can find a support in the woods. Vegetation has been ob- 
served in all the winter months, and in the latter part of December diminu- 
tive pears, peaches and apples, fully ripened, have been gathered from the 
trees. A rose, exposed in an open garden, bloomed throughout the whole 
winter of '28 and '29. In this winter the peach tree bloomed in the latter 
part of January, and produced in its regular season a plentiful crop of fruit. 
Many of our coldest days are succeeded by gentle and moderate evenings- 
our severest cold is about the latter part of January, generally commencino- 
after a hard rain, and continuing on an average about six days, thus realis- 
ing the truth of that old A'irginian proverb, "that as the day lengthens the 
cold strengthens; a rapid thaw, often accompanied with rain and cast winds, 
then takes place, while warm days and moderate nights soon reduce its se- 
verity, and open the way for the premature approach of spring. "Halfe 
of March" is no longer Avinter. Spring has already scattered her viA'id 
mantle o'er the scene, Avhile the AA'hole air is redolent of life and fragrance. 
Yet even its brightness is momentary — an unexpected frost often shoAvs that 
the frown of Avinter still lingers on the land, and Ave too frequently find a 
practical illustration of Shakspeare's metaphor, 

" The tyrannous breathings of the north, 
Checks all our buds from"bloA\-ina:." 



*.P\- ^^^^ ^" ^^^ ^^^^y on t'le climate of Pennsylvania, mentions a fall of snoAv at 
Philadelphia on the night between the 4th and 5th jNlnv. 1774. 

• \^A ^5'^''^°" ^^^^^ ^'^ ^^^^ "^ *~~'^ ^'o''^ ^iv^'' "w-as 'frozen over at York tOAvn, and 
in 1780, Chesapeake bay was solid from its head to the mouth of the Potomac The 
cold Avinters of 1784 and 1814 still live in the recollections of tradition. 



OF VlRGl.MA. 69 

It is now stormy, variable and cold; now calm, gentle and warm, and now 
dry, peaceful, and serene. Until the middle of May our climate presents 
one incessant tumult of rain and drought, frost and heat; yet a spring uni- 
formly cold is far more favorable to our agriculture, than its usual uncertain 
temperature for suppressing vegetation, it protects it from the blighting frosts 
o( March and April. Often during the spring months the weather is ex- 
cessively damp, cloudy and hazy. In Marcli, 1833, the sun was obscured 
for more than thirteen days, while every thing was chilled into gloomy mel- 
ancholy. 

The vegetation of this season aflbrds ns a criterion of the heat of the 
spring, which may be received in aid of the more accurate results derived 
from the thermometer. In the course of four years I have found these ave* 
rage periods of time suststained by careful observations: 

Peach blooms from March 7 to March 14. 

Apple blooms from March 20 to March 29. 

Cherry blooms from March 13 to March 17. 

Plum blooms from March 26 to March 31. 

Strawberry blooms from March 24 to March 31.* 

About the latter part of May our summer has commenced : the air be- 
comes dry, warm and elastic, and the verdure of the forest assumes a more 
deepened hue of vivid green. The superabundant moisture of the earth 
acquired during the winter, is now thoroughly evaporated, and the tempera- 
ture of the season in dispelling lassitude, invigorates into activity. Sum- 
mer burns on with a bright and glowing splendor, alternately relieved by 
gentle showers and refreshing breezes. Occasional droughts of many weeks 
in duration, parch the luxuriance of the vegetation — they are succeeded by 
copious and heavy showers of rain, which quickly restore the Avithered 
prospect. The approach of autumn is marked by heavy fogs in the morn- 
ing and evening, which arc soon dispelled, leaving that calm and serene 
temperature, Avhich gives to this season all the beauty of tranquil repose. In 
every season there is a large and constant exhalation from the earth in the 
shape of vapor, its volume being proportioned to the heat of the day. We 
do not often observe this exhalation when the heat of the atmosphere difTersf 
in a small degree from that of the earth; when the temperature of the aif 
is considerably lower, this A-apor so soon as it has arisen is deprived of * 
part of its heat, while its watery particles are more closely attracted inta 
union and become visible in the shape of fog. In the autumn of Virginia', 
the heat of the day is sufficient to produce a large ascent of vapor. LJndis- 
turbed by currents of wind it easily condenses, and is thickened by calm and' 
chilling nights into a heavy mist, Avhich in the guise of a cloud finds its 
resting place on the earth. Autumn of all other seasons, is least liable to* 
sudden and extreme vicissitudes. The approach of winter is alike gradual 
and uniform, and though we have frequent light snows, the mildness of au-- 
tumn is rarely wasted away until late in December. 

In reasoning from the researches of philosophy, we are taught to place 
but little reliance on the uncertain narratives of tradition ; they, however, 
with a slow yet steady advance, acquire respect, and often mould theory into 
fact, and fashion opinion into fixed principles. The common belief that our 

» At the residence of R. G. Esq. near the Natural Bridge in the valley of Virginia,- 
these fruit trees in the year 1834, bloomed at the following periods: 

Peach April I. I Phim April 1. 

Apple March 30. 1 Strawberry April 15. 



64 GENERAL DESClUPTlOiN 

climate has been changed into a milder temperature, has taken most of its 
certainty from the statements of our old people, who are uniformly consist- 
ent in this particular. The bloom of the orchard trees formerly restrained 
by a protracted winter from premature expansion, rarely failed arriving at 
the maturity oC fiuit ; the earth remained covered with snow for many 
weeks, and the winter did not, as now, dally with the wantonness of spring. 
The marshes, uncleared lands, ponds and lakes, which conspired to absorb 
the heat of the earth,* have been almost obliterated or greatly reduced. 
There is a lesser quantity of snow, and more of rain, while the frecpiency 
of violent storms of wind in the spring and summer, distinctly prove the 
g^reat mass of our local heat, and accumulated electricity. 

The winds of Virginia are singularly fickle and capricious, possesifeing 
neither the uniformity or regularity of those which blow at the tropics. Our 
prevailing wind is the south Avest, which assumes, alternately, gentle and 
severe characteristics. The frequency of southwestern winds above the 
latitudes of the trades, flows as a neces.sary consequence, from the continu- 
■tmce and direction of the vast currents of air. It moves unconfined and 
unresisted over the sea, until it reaches that imbroken range of mountains, 
Avhich towers from one extremity of our continent to the other. It strikes 
against them, and from its elasticity rebounds Avith great velocity, in a direc- 
tion opposed to the forcing powers of the trades, taking in its oblique move- 
ment all those features Avhich mark our southwestern wind. 

During the spring the N. E. is the most common Avind. The huge mass- 
es of snoAV and ice at the north pole, are gradually melted by the heat of 
fche sun ; great quantities of A^apor during this time are exhaled and remain 
suspended, augmenting both the Aveight and bulk of the atmosphere. That 
wonderful and mysterious agent, clcciricii]/, in dispelling the vapor and 
converting it into elastic air,t gi\^es an iinpetus to that Avind AA-hich issuing 
from the poles, takes a northeastern direction as it advances southerly, (its 
diurnal motion being less than that of the earth,) and falls surcharged Avith 
snoAv and rain on every portion of our country. 

Mr. Jefferson made 3G98 obserA^ations on the A-arious points from AA'hich 
-our Avinds bleAv, noting their changes two or three times in each day. The 
prevalence of the S. W. Avinds, over those from other quarters is thus nu- 
merically stated by him: 

South West, 926. North, 409. 

North, 611. West, 351. 

North East, 548. South East, 223. 

East, 521. South, 109. 

He has also made a comparatiA-e vioAv of the difference bctAA^een the Avinds 
at Monticello and Williamsburg. He has reduced nine months' observa- 
tions at Monticello, to four principal points, being perpendicular to, or par- 
allel Avith, our coasts, mountains, and rivers, viz: the N. E., S. E., S. W., 
and N. W. He has also reduced an equal mnnber of observations, 421, 
from his table above, taking them proportionally from every point. 

♦This principle is apparent from the fact that marshy countries are ahvays cold; 
the decrease of temperature after a violent rain, also proves its truth. An unusual 
evaporation carries off the heat of the earth, and may Ave not reasonably expect a cold 
■winter after a Avet summer? 

+ Through a glass tube filled Avith water, Dr. Franklin passed an electric shock, the 
tube Avas shattered 'to pieces, and the Avater disappeared; a similar experiment was 
tried with a tube filled Avilh ink on a sheet of Avhite paper, the same efl'ects Avere pro- 
duced, th* paper being neither stained nor discolored. 



OF VIRGINIA. 65 

Mv own observations made many times in each day, amount to 749, with- 
out reducing them in the proportionate manner of Mr. Jefferson. I have 
submitted them under the points and heads which he has adopted: 

N. E. s. E. s. w. N. w. Total 

Williamsburg, 127 61 132 101 421 

MoNTicELLO, 32 91 126 172 42i 

Braynefield, 204 130 247 168 749 

In an average of two years, I have found our Avinds thus yearly prevail- 
ing; the dominant wind of each day being only reckoned, and not the usual 
vicissitudes of local breezes, or squalls. 





Days. 


South "West, 


122 


North West, 


89 


North East, 


61 


East, 


30 





Days. 


North, 


26 


South, 


21 


West, 


12 


Sooith East, 


4 




63 




302 



302 



days 365 

A curious phenomenon is sometimes witnessed during a severe wind from 
the S. W. ; a thin vapor or scud is seen moving with great velocity below 
the clouds, from the N. E., there being two currents of air of directly 
contrary courses in active motion at the same time. 

In the early part of the spring and autumn, in dry seasons, about sunset 
it is commonto meet with currents of warm air, small in their extent yet ex- 
tremely rapid in their movements; they are considerably above the heat of 
the human body, and are wayward and eccentric, both in their duration and 
extent. Their existence has given rise to much .<?peculation, and even the 
experienced philosophy of Mr. Jefferson has succumbed to the mystery* of 
their origin. 

Our frosts are sometimes equally severe and unexpected. No body plac- 
ed near' the earth has a temperature of its own, but is entirely regulated by 
that of the earth. A violent storm of rain, by absorbing much of the heat 
of the earth, is often followed by a destructive frost. When the power of 
frost reaches a certain pilch, the vapors dispersed throughout the air, yield 
iheir latent heat — the atmosphere becomes clouded, the frost is either de- 
stroyed or mitigated, and the vapors descend in rain or snow. 

Our hardest frosts never penetrate the earth more than three inches, and 
though the leaves of the trees and shrubs are scathed or destroyed, and tim- 
ber sometimes splits in the direction of the fibres of the tree, its roots uni- 
formly remain uninjured. Those portions of vegetation which grow near- 
est to "the earth, and those in low and marshy situations, receive the severest 
injuries. On the night of the 17th May, 1834, the leaves of the oak, hicko 

♦ May they not proceed from that latent chctridiij, which pervades the air motit in 
dry seasons, and which is attracted to the human body by its heat,— thus producmg 
from the action of affinUv. the feeling of sudden warmth'! 
9 



66 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

ry, and all the forest trees, were blighted in most of their foliage; the syca- 
more only remained unhurt. Frost during the winter, is a fatal enemy to 
those plants which are nurtured in southern exposures; they are sometimes 
covered with snow, which melting rapidly, is converted in the course 
of the night into destructive ice. Our lohite frost is generally harmless, it 
being simple dew slightly congealed. 

Dew is found in Virginia in heavy masses, generally in the months of 
August, September, and October; it lies in greater quantities on our flat 
than high lands, being collected there during the absence of the sun from 
the horizon, like the relics of a drizzling rain. It appears first on the low- 
er parts of bodies, because in the evening the lower atmosphere is first cool- 
ed and most disposed to part with its vapor. 

Virginia is subject to rains of vehement and long continuance; they fall 
in the largest quantity about the breaking of the winter, and in March and 
September. I have no data on which to reckon their depth* or their preva- 
lence over the fair and cloudy days of our climate. Our valley and wes- 
tern regions, by the condensing power of their mountains, and our tide wa- 
ter sections, by the attractive force of broad rivers, have more local rains 
than the intermediate country, and do not suffer in the same proportion from 
continued droughts. If a year be remarkable for rain, it is fair to conclude 
that the ensuing winter will be severe, from the great evaporation of the 
heat of the earth, and if the rains have been violent, sterility and barren- 
ness will follow in the next year in proportion, as the surface mould, so vi- 
tal to vegetation, has been scattered and wasted away. 

Our Indian summer presents an ample field for the creations of fancy and 
the conceits of theory. It generally follows excessive and protracted droughts, 
and is dispersed by heavy rains. It has been traced to electric influence — 
to the burning of mountains — to the existence of numerous impalpable atoms 
of decayed vegetation, and has been assimilated to those light gray clouds 
which overhang Peru. Adhuc lis est subjudice. 

POLITICAL AND MORAL CONDITION. 

Having given a summary accoimt of the natural condition of Virginia, 
reserving a more detailed account for the particular counties; we now pro- 
ceed to give a similar succinct description of the situation of her people, be- 
gining with their number and classes. 

POPULATION. 

The number of people in Virginia has been as follows, at the several pe- 
riods mentioned, viz: in 1790, — 747,610 — in 1800, — 880,200 — in 1810-— 
974,622— in 1820,— 1,065,306— and in 1830,-1,21 1,375.— At the last pe- 
riod the population was divided as follows, among the several counties, viz- 

EASTERN DISTRICT. 

Counties. Population. 

Accomac, 10,650 

Albemarle, 22,618 



Counties. Population. 

Amelia, 11,036 

Amherst, 12,071 



* According to the observations of Dr. Sanders, made near Boston during tea years 
from January 1, 18-21 to January 1, 1831, there were on an average in each year 219 
days of fair and 146 of cloudy weather. Rain fell more or less on 57 days. Boston 
is on the sea coast, in lat. 42^ 20—58', and the standing temperature of the level of 
the sea at that place is between bd'^ and GO Farenhe. t. 



OF VIRGINIA. 



67 



CoiDlllcS. 

Bedford, - - - 
Brunswick, 
Culpepcr, 
Cumberland 
Dinwiddie, 
Elizabeth City, 
Essex, - - - 
Fairfax, - - - 
Fauquier, 
Fluvanna, 
Franklin, 
Gloucester, - - 
Goochland, 
Greensville, 
Halifax, - - - 
Hanover, 
Henrico, - - - 
Henry, - - - 
Isle of Wight, - 
James City, > - 
King- and Q,ue9n, 
King George, 
King William, - 
Lancaster, - - 
Loudon, - - - 
Louisa, - - 
Lunenburg, - - 
Madison, - - 
Mathews, - - 
Buckingham, 
Campbell, - - 



Pop 



ulation. 
20,240 

24,027 
11,690 
21,901 

5,053 
10,521 

9,204 
26,0SG 

8,221 
14,911 
10,608 
10,369: 

7,117 
28,034; 
16,253j 
28,797| 

7,100, 
10,517; 

3,838 
11,644 

6,397 

9,812 

4,801 
21,939 
16,151, 
11,957 

9,236 

• 7,664 

18,351 

20,350 



M'ESTERX 

Counties. Pojndation. 

Alleghany, 2,816 

Augusta,'- 19,926 

Bath, 4,002 

Berkeley, 10,518 

Botetourt, 16,354 

Brooke, 7,041 

Cabell, 5,884 

Frederick, 25,046 



Giles, 

Grayson, 

Greenbrier, 

Harrison, 

Hampshire, 

Hardy, 



5,274 
7,675 
9,006 
14,722 
11,279 
6,798 



Jefferson, 12,927 

Kanawha, 9,320 

Lee, 6,461 



\Cou/itles. Population. 

Caroline, 17,700 

[Charles City, 5,500 

■Charlotte, 15,252 

Chesterfield, ... - 18,637 

iMeclenburg, 20,477 

■Middlesex, 4,122 

Nansemond, 11,784 

Nelson, 11,254 

New Kent, 6,458 

Norfolk, 24,806 

Northampton, 8,641 

Northumberland, - - - - 7,953 

Nottoway, 10,130 

Orange, 14,637 

Patrick, 7,395 

Pittsylvania, 26,034 

Powhatan, 8,517 

Prince Edward, - - - - 14,107 

Prince George, 8,367 

Prince William, - - - - 9,330 

Prince Anne, 9,102 

Richmond, 6,055 

Southampton, .... 16,074 
Spottsylvania, - - - - 15,134 

Stafford, 9,362 

Surry, 7,109 

Sussex, - - - . . . 12,720 

Warwick, 1,570 

Westmoreland, 8,396 

York, 5,354 



DISTRICT. 

Coiinties. Population- 

Lev/is, 6,241 

Logan, 3,680 

Monongalia, 14,056 

Mason, 6,534 

Monroe, 7,798 

Montgomery, 12,306 

Morgan, -".-•--- 2,694 

Nicholas, 3,346 

Ohio, 15,584 

Page, (formerly E. Shenandoah) 8,327 

Pendleton, 6,271 

Pocahontas, 2,542 

Preston, 5,144 

Randolph, 5,000 

Rockbridge, -.-... 14,244 

Rockingham, 20,683 

Russell, 6,714 



63 



GENERAL DESCRIPTION 



Counties. Population. 

Scott, 5,724 

Shenandoah, 11,423 

Tazewell, ....-- 5,749 
Tyler, 4,104 



Counties. 
Washington, 
Wood, - ■ 
Wythe, - - 



Population. 

- - 15,614 

- - 6,429 

- - 12,163 



Under 5 years of age, 
From 5 to 1 a 



Total population of Eastern Virginia, 832,980; Western Va. 378,425. 
Of the preceding were white persons. 

Males. Females. 

65,793 62,411 

51,805 49,964 

43,287 41,936 

36,947 40,479 

60,911 62,044 

36,539 36,45G 

23,381 23,750 

15,261 15,447 

8,971 8,765 

3,674 3,857 

1,108 1,098 

184 158 

26 98 



to 5 
to 20 
to 30 



10 
15 

20 

30 

40 

50 

60 

70 

80 

90 to 1 00 

1 00 and upwards 



to 
to 
to 
to 
to 
to 



40 
50 
60 
70 
80 
90 



Total, 
Of the colored population, were 

Male. 

Under 10 years of age, 8,236 

From 10 to 24, 6,126 

" 24 to 36, 3,546 

" 36 to 55, 2,721 

55 to 100, 1,731 

" 100 and upwards 27 



Total, 



347,887 

Free. 
Female. 
8,002 
7,031 
4,501 
3,379 
2,024 
24 



346,383 



Slaves. 



Male. 
84,000 
68,917 
43,189 
30,683 
12,155 
133 

239,077 

Slaves. 
469,757 

514,280 

20,124 

345,796 



Fan ale. 
83,270 
66,921 
40,927 
27,206 
12,275 
144 

230,680 

Total. 
1,211,375 



22,387 24,961 

RECAriTULATION. 

Whites. Free Colored. 

694,270 47,343 

Increase of population : 
In 1800 the white males numbered, 
Free colored. 
Slaves, 

Increase in thirty years, 
Or thirty-seven and a half per cent. 

In the same period, the free whites increased 180,020, or 35 per cent.; 
the free colored persons 27,224, or 135 per cent.; and the slaves, 123,961, 
or 36 percent. For the ten years preceding the census of 1830, the rate 
of increase of the whole population diminished considerably, and the rela- 
tive increase of the several classes varied from the foregoing results. On 
the whole population, th^ rate was reduced from 37^ to 13^ per cent.; on 



880,200 
331,175 



OF VIRGINIA. 69 

the free wliite, from 35 to \'> per cent.; on the free colored, from 135 to 28^ 
per cent.; and on the slaves from 36 to 10^ percent. It is to be observed, 
however, that, while the black population of the whole state has been dimin- 
ishingf, Avhen compared with the white, the reverse is true in respect to Eas- 
tern Virginia, which is peculiarly the slave region; for, while, in 1790, 
there was in that district a majority of 25,000 whites, the slave and free 
colored population outnumbered them at every successive census, iintil, in 
1830, the excess was upwards of 81,000. The facts thus exhibited show 
that Western Virginia, which contains comparatively few slaves, has rapidly 
increased its white population in the last ten years, the rate of increase 
amounting to 25 per cent,; while, on the eastern side of the mountains, the 
increase of the whites, in the same period, did not exceed 7^ per cent. The 
greater multiplication of blacks in Eastern Virginia, notwithstanding con- 
stant deportation to the southern and southwestern states, may be partly as- 
cribed to the mild treatment which they generally receive from their own- 
ers. On the other hand, the evil effects of slavery, and the policy of adopt- 
ing some scheme for gradual abolition, are topics which have been freely 
and earnestly discussed, and have already arrayed the Virginians into two 
powerful parties. The slow progress of the white population, compared 
with some of the other states, when so many propitious causes exist for its 
advancement, has been urged as a prominent objection to slavery. Indeed, 
the march of its aggregate population has fallen far short of the predictions 
of former times. Mr. Jefferson, in his Notes, which were written in 1782, 
estimated that the then existing stock, unaided by foreign emigration, Avould 
be multiplied to 2,270,000 by the year 1835, exceeding, by upwards of a 
million, the result of the last census. That the increase of numbers has 
been restrained by powerful checks seems reasonable; but to point out their 
true character and operation, belongs rather to the department of moral and 
political philosophy. 

This state is now divided into one hundred and eleven counties; Avhereof 
sixty-six are on the eastern side, and forty-five on the Avestern side of the 
Blue Ridge mountains. Six new counties having been added since the tak- 
ing of the last census, and revision of the constitution; they were erected 
by act of Assembly 1831-2, viz: — Page county, formed out of parts of 
Shenandoah and Rockingham — Rappahannock, formed out of a part of 
Culpeper county — Smj^h, formed out of Washington and Wythe — Floyd, 
from a part of Montgomery — Jackson, out of part of Mason, Kanawha and 
Wood — and Fayette, formed out of parts of Greenbrier, Nicholas, and Ka- 
nawha counties. 



GOVERNMENT AND LAWS. 

Constitution'. — The first constitution of this state was formed and adopt- 
ed in 177G, and continued in operation until October, 1829, when a conven- 
tion met at Richmond to alter and amend it, or frame a new one: on the 
14th of January, 1830, the present constitution was adopted by a vote of 55 
to 40. The amended constitution on being submitted to the legal voters of 
the state was ratified by a majority of 10,492 votes, as appears by the fol- 
lowing statement: 



70 



GENERAL DESCRIPTION 





For. 


Against. 


Transalleghany District, 


2,123 


11,289 


Valley 


3,842 


2,097 


Middle " 


12,417 


1,086 


Tide-Water 


7,673 


1,091 



Total, 



26,0;: 



15,563 



Legislature. — The first election of members of the House of Delegates, 
and Senate, under the amended constitution, took place on the several court 
days in the month of October, 1830, in the different counties and boroughs 
entitled to representation : and the first General Assembly convened at 
Richmond on the first Monday in December, 1831. 

By this constitution the legislative power is vested in a Senate and a 
House of Delegates, which are together styled the General Assembly of 
Virginia. The House of Delegates consists of 134 members chosen an- 
nually; — 31 from the Trans-Alleghany district; — 25 from the Valley dis- 
trict; — 42 from the Middle district; — and 36 from the Tidewater district. 
The Senate consists of 32 members; — 13 from the counties west of the 
Blue Ridge; — and 19 from the country east of that mountain. The Sena- 
tors are elected for four years, and the scats of one-fourth are vacated each 
year. — In all elections to any office or place of triist, honor, or emolument; 
the votes are given viva voce. — A reapportionment in both houJ^o, ±^ lOtake 
place every ten years, commencing in 1841 ; until which time there is to be 
no change in the number of delegates and senators from the several divi- 
sions; and after 1841 the number of delegates is never to exceed 150, or 
that of senators 36. 

Executive. — The executive power is vested in a Governor elected by 
the joint vote of the two houses of the General Assembly. He holds it 
three years, commencing the 31st of March after his election, or on such 
other day as may be from time to time prescribed bylaw; and he is ineligi- 
ble for the three years next after the expiration of his term of office. There 
is a Council of State, consisting of three members, elected for three years by 
the joint vote of the two houses; the seat of one being A^acated annually. 
The senior counsellor is Lieutenant Governor. 

The present executive officers are 

L. W. Tazewell, Governor, 

Daniel A. Wilson, Lieut. Goi^ernor, ) 

Wyndham Robertson, > CouncU. 

Peter V. Daniel, ) 

Lawson Burfoot, Treasurer of State, 

James E. Heath, Auditor, 

James Brown, Jr., Second Auditor, 

William Selden, Register of the Land OJJicc. 

Judiciary. — The Judges of the Supreme Court of Appeals, and of the 
Circuit Superior Courts of Law and Chancery, are elected by joint vote of 
both houses of the General Assembly, and hold their offices during good 
behavior, or until removed by a concurrent vote of both houses; but two- 
thirds of the members present must concur in such vote, and the cause of 
removal be entered on the journals of each house. 



OF VIRGINIA. 71 

The present Court of Appkals consists of 

Henry bt. (.Teorge 1 uckcr, President, o 720 

Francis T. Brooke, Judge, 'Z/iQQ 

William H. Cabell, do* 2'500 

Wm. Brockenbrouyh, do. 2500 

Dabney Carr, do, 2*500 

The Judges are entitled to receive, in addition to their salaries, 25 cents 
a mile for necessary travel. The Court of Appeals holds two sessions annu- 
ally; one at Lewisburg, Greenbrier county, for the counties lying west of 
the Blue Ridge, commencing on the 1st Monday in July, and conti- 
nuing 90 days, unless the business shall be sooner despatched; the 
other at Richmond, for the counties lying cast of the Blue Ridge, commenc- 
ing at such times as the court may, from time to time, appoint,°and continu- 
ing 160 days, unless the business shall be sooner despatched. 

Geiural Couri.— The state is divided into 10 districts, and each district 
into two circuits, and a Circuit Superior Court of Law and Chancery is held 
twice every year in each county and corporation; the courts siuing until the 
business is despatched. 

There are 20 Judges, having each a salary of $1,500, and their names, 
with the- i^.ti.xocr of their respective circuits, areas follows: 

1. Richard F. Baker, 8. William Daniel, 15. Benjamin Estill, 

2. John F. May, 9. William Leigh, 16. James E. Brown, 

3. Abel P. Upshur, 10. Fleming Saunders, 17. Allen 7\aylor, 

4. William Brown, 11. Richard H. Field, 18. Edward D. Duncan, 

5. J. T. Lomax, 12. Lucas P. Thompson, 19. Lewis Summers, 

6. John Scott, 13. Richard E. Parker, 20. Joseph L. Fry. 

7. John B. Clopton, 14. Daniel Smith, 

Counlij Courts. — Justices of the Peace who constitute these Courts are 
elected by the Governor, upon nomination of the existing County Courts. 
Four Justices constitute a Court for the trial of civil, and five for criminal 
causes. Their civil jurisdiction in law and equity is concurrent with 
that of the Circuit Superior Courts of Law and Chancery in cases of trover* 
or detinue, and others involving greater value than $50; and beloAV that 
amount but over $20, it is exclusive. Their criminal jurisdiction is con- 
current with that of the same Court in petit larceny, and all other offences 
of free persons not exceeding the grade of misdemeanors, and in the case 
of slaves exclusive as to all offences. The Justices receive no compensa- 
tion ; but the lucrative office of Sheriff is conferred upon one of their body, 
generally the eldest Justice, and for two successive years, when he gives 
way to the next oldest in commission, &c. These Courts are established by 
the Constitution, but their jurisdiction, is settled by law. 

Right of Suffrage is extended to every white male citizen of the 
commonwealth, resident therein, aged 21 years and upwards; who Avas 
qualified to exercise the right under the former constitution and laws; — or 
who own a freehold of the value of $25 ; — or who has a joint interest worth 
$25, in a freehold; — or who has a reversion, or vested remainder in fee 
expectant on an estate for life or years; of which lie shall have been pos- 
sessed for six.months, unless obtained by descent, devise, or marriage; — or 
who shall own and be in occupation of a leasehold estate, recorded two 



72 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

months before he offers to vote, of an annual value of $20, and original du- 
ration of at least 5 years ; — or who has been housekeeper or head of a 
family for 12 months, and been assessed with, and has paid taxes. 

But paupers, persons of unsound mind, non-commissioned olRcers, sol- 
diers, seamen and marines cTlhe U. States, and persons convicted of infa- 
mous offences cannot vote. 

As connected with this subject Ave insert here the Civil List of Vir- 
ginia; — prepared in compliance Avith a resolution of the House of Dele- 
gates of the 8th of March, 1833. 

CIVIL LIST, 

Shewing the natitre, and extent of the duties of each officer of the Govern- 
ment and their Salaries. 

Grovernor, salary $3333 33. — The governor is ex-officio president of the 
literary fund, the board of public works, the James river company, and the 
northwestern turnpike company, for which several services he receives no 
additional compensation. 

Lieutenant Governor, $1000; two Councillors, $1000 each.— The lieu- 
tenant-governor is not now a director of either of these boards. In case of 
the death or resignation of the governor, he is enthled to the chief magis- 
trate's salary in lieu of his own. Neither the lieutenant-governor, nor the 
other members of the council, have any perquisites of office. 

Secretary of the CommonweaUh, $1620 00; Assistant Clerk, $1000 00; 
Copying Clerk, $200 00. — The secretary or clerk of the executive depart- 
ment is also keeper of the seals and librarian, by virtue of his office. He 
is entitled to a fee of $1 67 upon each testimonial granted from the execu- 
tive department, and to commissions, at the discretion of the joint library 
committee, upon sales or exchanges of books belonging to the library fund. 
These perquisites, it is understood, are very inconsiderable. Neither the 
assistant nor copying clerk is entitled to any other compensation besides his 
salary. 

Clerk of the Council, $500 00: — Keeps the journal of the council, and 
performs various other duties, for which he has no perquisites. 

Door-Keeper to the Council, $500 00. — The door-keeper to the council 
is also keeper of the capitol keys, but is entitled to no compensation besides 
his regular salary. The incidental expenses of the executive depart- 
ment during the past fiscal year, amounted to $1,193 61, including fuel, 
stationery and postage. 

President of the Court of Appeals, $2750 00; Four Jiidges of the 
Court of Appeals, $2,500 each. — The president and judges are entitled, ex- 
clusive of their salaries, to twenty cents per mile for travelling to and from 
the respective courts they are required to attend. 

Clerk Eastern Court, $1000 00; Clerk Western Court, $1000 00.— 
This allowance of $1,000 to each of the clerks of the court of appeals, is 
the maximum fixed by law, but the judges may in their discretion reduce 
it. The clerks arc entitled to their regular fees from individuals, but to no 
other compensation from the state. The judges are authorized to appoint 
a crier and tipstaff to each of the courts held at Richmond and Lewisburg, 
and to fix their compensation. The crier at Richmond received, during the 
last fiscal year, $729, and the tipstaff, $608 3 1 ; and the incidental expenses 



OF VIRGINIA. 73 

ffT fuel, stationery, &c. amounted, in the same period, to 6)93. The con- 
tinf^ent expenses at Lewisburg, owing to the short terms of the court, aro 
very inconsiderable. 

Twenty Judges of the Circuit Superior Courts of Law and Chancery, 
nineteen at $1,500, and one at $1,800. — The judge of the superior court 
of Henrico receives $1,800 annual salary. The other judges, $1,500 each; 
and all arc entitled to 15 cents per mile for travelling through their circuits 
and to the general court. 

Clerk of^the General Court, $500 00.— The fees of the clerk of the 
general court are very inconsiderable. 

Attorney Superior Court Henrico, $300 00; Clerk Superior Court Hen- 
rico, $100 00. — An act concerning the superior court of Henrico, passed 
29th March, 1823, fixes the compensation of the attorney and clerk of that 
court, and makes them, in effect, salaried officers. The clerk is moreover 
entitled to his fees for services rendered thecommonweaUh, which will pro- 
bably average about $40 per annum. 

Attorney General, $1000 00. — The attorney general is entitled to fees 
when recovered frem defendants; but owing to the diminished number of 
judgments against public debtors, his fees have not averaged more than $40 
per annum for the last two years. 

Treasurer, $2000 00. — The treasurer is ex-officio a director of the board 
of public works, the Jam.es river company, the literary fund, and the north- 
western turnpike company. He is moreover, by virtue of his office, a di- 
rector of the Virginia bank, and treasurer of the Cincinnati fund, which is 
in his possession. He has no perquisites of office. 

First Clerk, $900 00. — The first clerk of the treasurer has charge of the 
books in which the accounts of the commonwealth are kept, distinguished 
from those which relate to speciffic funds, the latter being confided to the 
second clerk. Both, however, perform indiscriminately the current duties 
of the office. The incidental expenses Of the treasury office during the last 
fiscal year, embracing fuel, stationery, sweeper, &c. amounted to $152 38. 
Auditor of Public Accounts, $2000 00. — The a^iditor is ex-ofiicio a di- 
rector of the James river company', the board of public Avorks, the literary 
fund, and the northwestern turnpike company. He is also, in conjunction 
with the governor, lieutenant-governor, and second auditor, one of the com- 
missioners for transporting the free people of color. He has no perquisites 
nor extra compensation, except a fee of 50 cents for each redemption of de- 
linquent land. The late laws on that subject have reduced these fees to an 
average of thirty or forty dollars per annum. His general duties are to 
audit all claims against the commonwealth, and to collect and disburse the 
public revenue. 

Clerk of Accounts, $1400 00. — The clerk of accounts has in his pecu- 
liar charge the public books of account, prepares all the revenue statements 
and the lists of balances, and performs a variety of duties connected with 
his department. 

First Clerk, $900 00. — The first clerk represents the auditor in his ab- 
sence, and during such time, is entitled to extra compensation at the rate of 
$166 67 per annum. He has special charge of the vouchers upon Avhich 
warrants are issued, assists the auditor in the revenue settlements, and per- 
forms various other duties. 

Second Clerk, $750 00; Third Clerk, $600 00.— The second clerk has 
charge of the delinquent land lists, and in common with the third clerk, 
10 



74 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

performs a variety of duties appertaining to the current business, such as 
examining and correcting commmissioners' books, insolvents in the revenue, 
and militia fines, &c. &:c. The auditor is also authorized to employ an ex- 
tra clerk, in his discretion, at the rate of $50 per month, growing out of 
the accumulated labors of the office from revolutionary claims, &c. The 
incidental expenses of the ofiice in the last fiscal year, including stationery, 
fuel, and sweeper, and excluding postage, amounted to $280 75. The post- 
age alone amounted to $1,050. 

Second Auditor, $1800 00. — The second auditor is an ex-officio director 
of the James river company, board of public works, literary fund, and north- 
western turnpike company, and audits all the accounts appertaining thereto. 
He is moreover superintendent of the literary fund, and clerk to the board 
of directors. He is also ex-officio secretary to the board of public works, 
and one of the commissioners for removing free people of color. He is 
entitled to no extra compensation. 

First Clerk, $900 00; Second Clerk, $600 00.— The first clerk repre- 
sents the second auditor in his absence, and when necessary, acts as clerk 
to the literary fund, and secretary to the board of public w'orks; keeps the 
books of the James river company and board of public works, and assists 
the second auditor in the current business. The second clerk keeps the 
books of the literary fund and northwestern turnpike company, and attends 
to other duties. The incidental expenses of the office, and of the several 
boards connected therewith, for the past fiscal year, embracing, fuel, statione- 
ry, sweeper, pay of messengers, and clerks of boards, postage, printing, and 
miscellaneous expenses, amounted to $1,172 04. 

Register of the Land Office, $1500 00. — The register's duties are prin- 
cipally defined in the general revised land law of 1st March, 1819. He 
has no perquisites, his fees of office being required to be paid into the trea- 
sury. 

First Clerk of the Land Office, $900 00.— The first clerk receives and 
examines surveys, &c. and issues grants, &c. 

Second Clerk, $600. — The second clerk is engaged principally in record- 
ing. The incidental expenses of the land office the past fiscal year, including- 
fuel, stationery, parchment for grants, and sweeper, amounted to $625 29. 

Public Printer, $2600 00.— $1,000 of the public printer's salary is paid 
quarterly. The residue annually, after the completion of the sessions acts. 
The salary is exclusive of extra printing. The amount paid during the 
last fiscal year for printing legislative documents, extra copies of the acts 
and journals of the library, &c. &c. amounted to $1,836 64, which is pro- 
bably about a fair annual average. 

Superintendent of the Penitentiary, $2000 00 ; First and Second Assist- 
ant Keepers $700 each; Third, Fourth, Firth, Sixth, and Seventh Assist- 
ant Keepers, $600 each. — Neither the keeper nor assistant keepers receive 
any extra compensation. The auditor is not informed as to the particular 
distribution of duties among the assistants. The 6th and 7th assistants 
were for the first time so denominated in the act of 8th March, 1833. They 
were previously called turnkey and delivery clerk. 

Clerk, $600 00. — The clerk keeps the accounts of the institution, and 
acts as clerk to the board of directors. He has no perquisites. 

Five Directors, at $150 each. — The directors are paid annually, at the 
rate of $3 per day, for each day's attendance: not to exceed $150. 

Surgeon to the Penitentiary and Public Guard, $900 00. — Attends the 



OF VIRGINIA. 75 

sick convicts at the penitentiary and soldiers of the public guard, and is en- 
titled to no perquisites of office. 

General Agent or Store-Keeper to the Penitentiary. — The agent for sel- 
ling penitentiary manufactures is allowed a commission of seven per cen- 
tum upon sales, in lieu of salaries to himself and clerks. 

Adjutant General, $.500 00. — For the various laws respecting the adju- 
tant general, see 1 Rev. Code, pages 94. 95, 96 and 98, and Supplement, 
pages GO, G4, 81 and 84. 

Vaccine Agent, $500 00. — The allowance is paid semi-annually, on the 
order of the executive. The auditor is informed by the agent that there are 
numerous applications for vaccine matter. No perquisites of ofiice. 

Supcrintendant of the Westham Magazine, $150 00. — It is understood 
that no duties are nov/ required of this officer, the magazine not being used. 

Keeper of the Rolls and Clerk of the House of Delegates, $200 00. — 
The clerk of the house of delegates is ex-officio keeper of the rolls, and it 
is in the latter character, that he is entitled to the stated salary of $200 per 
annum. As clerk, his allowance Avas fixed at $150 per week, by the act of 
1 6th February, 1822. Out of this weekly allowance, the clerk of the 
house of delegates employs an assistant in the office during the sessions of 
the legislature, and defrays the expense of enrolling and engrossing the acts. 
Besides his official duties during the session, he is required after the ad- 
journment of the legislature, to arrange and cause to be published, with 
marginal notes and indexes, the laws of that body. His perquisites consist 
in fees for certified copies of the acts of assembly; but it is understood that 
they amount to a very inconsiderable sum. The incidental expenses of the 
office of the clerk during the last fiscal year, including fuel, stationery for 
the house of delegates, binding journals, parchment, &c. amounted to 
$333 48.— Total amount of Civil List, $74,553 33. 

Though not strictly within the terms of the resolution of the house 
of delegates, it is perhaps required by its spirit, that the allowances to the 
officers of the general assembly, so far as they have been fixed by law, 
should be added. 

The speaker of the senate is entitled, under the act of IGth February, 
1822, to $6 per day, mileage and ferriages. The speaker of the house of 
delegates, to $8 per day, mileage and ferriages. The clerk of the senate, 
to $75 per week. The sergeant at arms to the senate, to $30 per week. 
The sergeant of the house of delegates, to $28 per week, and fees for ar- 
rests. The clerks of each of the committees to the house of delegates, to 
$35 per week. The door keepers to both houses, each to $28 per week. 
The printer to the senate, to $500 for the session. The only clerks of com- 
mittees of the house of delegates, whose allowances were fixed by the act 
of IGth February, 1822, were those of propositions and grievances, elections 
and claims, courts of justice, and roads and navigation. Other clerks of 
committees have been occasionally appointed, and their wages paid by a 
special clause in the annual appropriation law. 

It may also be proper to add, that pursuant to the resolution of the gene- 
ral assembly of 21st February, 1833, the executive has employed an agent 
to examine certain revolutionary documents, with a salary of $1,200 per 
annum. 

LAWS. 

On the third of July. 1776, the convention whicb mf^t to mlnpt a ronstitu- 



76 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

tion for the state, having declared it independent, passed an ordinance de- 
claring that "The common law of England, ail statutes or acts of Parlia- 
ment made in aid thereof prior to the fourth year of the reign of King 
James the first, and which were of a general nature and not local to that 
kingdom, should be considered as in full force, until the same should be 
altered by the Legislature." 

After this the Legislature re-enacted by special acts all of the statutes of 
the British Parliament which they thought applicable and necessary ; and 
on the 27th December, 1792, declared that no statute or act of Parliament 
should have any force or authority Avithin this commonwealth, — saving all 
judicial and remedial writs which miglit have been sued out before that act. 

The common law, the constitution and statutes of Virginia, the constitu- 
tion of the United States and the laws and treaties made in pursuance thereof, 
constitute the whole law of Virginia. 

RELIGION. 

Although the bill of rights, in 1776, declared that all men were equally 
entitled to the free exercise of religion, according to the dictates of con- 
science, yet the first constitution contained no express provision on the sub- 
ject. The legislature, in 1785, passed an act for establishing religious free- 
dom, and subsequently repealed all laws which recognized the Protestant 
Episcopal Church as the legal establishment. The glebe lands, and other 
church property, were vested in the overseers of the poor, for charitable 
uses, reserving only to the living incumbents an estate for life, and exempt- 
ing the church buildings from confiscation. The new constitution of 1830 
fully recognises absolute religious freedom as a part of the fundamental 
law. The Episcopal church, which, after the loss of its revenues, suffered 
almost total extinction in Virginia, has revived, in the last twent)^ years, by 
the voluntary support of its friends, and is now distinguished by numerous 
and wealthy members, and by a pious and intelligent clergy. In 1834 the 
number of ministers in the State, including two bishops, was 59, churches, 
58, and 2840 communicants. In the same year, the Presbyterians num- 
bered 117 churches, 100 ministers, 11,413 communicants; the Methodists, 
168 ministers, communicants 34,316 whites, and 7,447 colored, total 41,763; 
the Baptists, 261 ministers, churches 450, and communicats 54,302, of 
whom it is conjectured that one-half are slaves. The precise distinction be- 
tween the regular Baptists and the Reformers, called the disciples of Christ, 
not being in all cases drawn, there is no coming to any thing like certain 
knowledge, but it is supposed they do not exceed 1 0,000 in number, neither 
are they so systematically arrayed as to afford any accuracy in their statis- 
tics, either as to the number of teachers, congregations, meeting-houses, 
&.C. Attempts are now being made for a better arrangement of their af- 
fairs. The increase of new members, for the last two or three years, has 
been so great that it has not been possible to keep pace with the demand 
for preachers, meeting-houses, &,c. They have advanced in the U. States, 
withm 10 years, from a few in number, to something like 150,000. The 
Catholics have 5 ministers, and 10 congregations; but the number of lay 
members is not ascertained. It will be perceived that the Baptists and Me- 
thodists are the most numerous sects in the state ;_ and the estimate does not 
include a considerable number of separatists from both communions. Be- 
sides these, there are Friends, Lutherans, Dunkers, Unitarians, Jews, &c-. 



OF VIRGINIA. 77 

scatteroJ tliroug-h the state, whose numbers are not accurately known. Tlie 
Presbyterians have a theological seminary in Prince Edward, and the Epis- 
copalians one near Alexandria, both of which institutions have flourished 
by private liberality. The state, in its political capacity, has always mani- 
fested a strong jealousy of all ecclesiastical establishments; yet the Virgi- 
nians are generous in private contributions towards objects of religion and 
benevolence. Sunday schools, and societies for promoting temperance, Af- 
rican colonization, 6ic., have been extensively patronized in late years, 

EDUCATION. 

Literary Fund. — This Fund was established by the Legislature in 
1809, by devoting the proceeds of all escheats, fines, and forfeitures, to the 
encouragement of learning. In 1816 it was encreased by the liberal appro- 
priation of the debt due from the United States to Virginia, on account of 
advances made by the State in the late war with Great Britain. The per- 
manent capital of this fund amounted, in September, 1833, to $1,551,857 47 
Of this there was invested in stocks, loans and debts, - $1,551,803 34 



Leaving in the treasury to the credit of the fimd, - - 54 13 

To which balance must be added the undrawn school 

quotas, amounting to - - $20,256 74 

First deducting the amt. invested in bank stock, of 7, 150 00 

13,106 74 



Which leaves a total balance to the credit of the fund of $13,160 87 

The revenue arising from this fund amounted, in 1833, to $78,340 61 
Of w^hich there was expended - - - 62,927 18 

Leaving a balance, to encrease the capital, of - $15,413 43 

When the Legislature appropriated the United States debt to this fund, 
it at the same time gave $230,000, and an annuity of $15,000 from the fund, 
to the University of Virginia. 

Primarv Schools. — The sum of $45,000 annually has been appropri- 
ated from the revenue of the Literary Fund, to the different counties, in pro- 
portion to their wdiite population, for the sole purpose of instructing poor 
children in the elements of learning. This sum is placed under the manage- 
ment and control of School Commissioners, appointed by the Court of each 
county. 

Tlie primary school system has been modified from time to time since its es- 
tablishment, — and is now under the control of the Second Auditor, Avho 
renders an annual report to the Legislature, of the disbursement of the fund, 
founded on the returns of the county commissioners. — As the public boun- 
ty is confined to the offspring of indigent parents, a plan is now partially in 
operation, by which contributions may be received from individuals to es- 
tablish schools free for all classes of pupils; and strong hope is entertained 
that the experiment will prove successful, notwithstanding the difficulties 
which arise from the mixed population of one portion of the state, and the 
scattered population and rugged surface of the other. Experience has al- 
ready demonstrated the utility of even the existing system, and thousands 
who'must have groped through life in the darkness of ignorance, have had 
the cheering light of knowledge shed upon them by means of the primary 



78 



GENERAL DESCRIPTION 



schools. We annex the Second Auditor's abstract of the number of poor 
children taught in each county, the expense, &c. for the year 1832-3: 

ABSTRACT of School Comvrissioners' Reports for the year 1832, receiv- 
ed between oOth Septe?nber, 1832, and 1st October, 1833. 





c 
o 


m 4, 
c jl 


rt 


c 


•c o 


cr ^ 


c 


J; en 




COUNTIES 


'5 


c2 
II 




c 


c S 

o 




'•5 


•"H 3 


rr X 


AND 




c o 
o o 


2 

s 


■5 


— •_ — 
1 = 1 


i rJ 


c. 


3_- 


— o 


TOWNS. 


If 
1^ 


5 >v 




S 
■~3 




aj 2 2 


"S 3 


E-5 ■« 


£-3 






c-a 


O 3 


c2 


fel S 


^ ^ "3 


c ~ 




c „" 








. O 




tt *^ ^ 


<u H ''■' 


S 3 


J; 5 « 


C..2 




C.S 


c -^ 


o u 


O "t 


tu!S-a 


> »- :S 


o « 


> CJJ 






^ 


?■-. 


"rZ 


f, 


< 


<- « 


tf 


< 


K 


Albemarle, 


15 


49 


600 


181 


13020 


71 


4 cts. 


S3 15 


S570 74 


Amelia, 


8 


13 


120 


49 


6147 


125 


4 


5 57 


273 08 


Amherst, 


15 


25 


250 


85 


5383 


63 


4 


2 87 


243 74 


Alleghany, 


8 


10 


80 


42 


2016 


48 


4 


2 08 


87 29 


Accoinac, 


1-2 


30 


750 


256 


14695 


54 


31 


2 31 


592 22 


Augusta, 


15 


G5 


600 


437 


21003 


48 


4 


2 02 


883 59 


Bath, 


10 


17 


100 


99 


3901 


39 


31 


1 44 


142 53 


Bed lord. 


15 


29 


450 


338 


19656 


58 


4 


2 55 


861 65 


Berkeley, 


15 


34 


530 


349 


24518 


70 


3i 


2 45 


854 14 


Botetourt, 


1-2 


45 


325 


300. 


22843 


76 


4 


3 28 


982 58 


Brooke, 


9 


29 


410 


268 


19383 


72 


2i 


1 98 


530 13 


Buckingham, 


10 


G5 


250 


136 


11488 


84 


4 


3 67 


498 90 


Brunswick, 


- 


_ 


— 


— 











— 





Cabell, 


7 


17 


200 


117 


6399 


55 


4 


2 40 


280 76 


Campbell, 


8 


29 


350 


115 


5963 


52 


4 


2 12 


244 57 


Caroline, 


8 


29 


450 


157 


11577 


74 


4 


3 31 


519 88 


Charles City, 


- 


- 


— 


— 











— 





Charlotte, 


8 


23 


300 


95 


8072 


85 


4 


3 79 


360 16 


Chesterfield, 


11 


30 


500 


178 


14042 


79 


4 


3 38 


601 65 


Culpeper, 


15 


49 


500 


330 


22927 


69 


4 


3 07 


1012 93 


Cumberland, 


9 


20 


100 


91 


8617 


95 


4 


4 14 


- 376 73 


Dinwiddie, 


12 


20 


120 


61 


9658 


158 


4 


6 77 


412 94 


Essex, 


7 


12 


300 


56 


4420 


79 


4 


3 26 


183 92 


Elizabeth City, 


7 


2 


50 


21 


776 


37 


4 


2 16 


45 39 


Fairfax, 


9 


23 


500 


183 


10650 


58 


4 


2 38 


435 50 


Fauquier, 


- 


- 


— 


— 


— 


— 


— 


— 


— 


Franklin, 


9 


24 


500 


285 


14093 


49 


34 


1 82 


518 50 


Fayette, 


- 


- 


— 


— 










— 





Frederick, 


9 


100 


650 


428 


31500 


74 


4 


2 77 


1186 85 


Floyd, 


G 


G 


150 


33 


1444 


4^1 


4 


3 20 


105 52 


Fluvanna, 


8 


18 


100 


43 


3711 


86 


4 


3 88 


166 83 


Grayson, 


7 


41 


350 


307 


13010 


42 


4 


1 77 


544 15 


Greenbrier, 


10 


20 


500 


239 


12106 


50 


4 


2 25 


537 90 


Greensville, 


- 


- 


— 


















Giles, 


G 


19 


225 


128 


7342 


57 


3J 


2 20 


281 && 


Gloucester, 


14 


15 


160 


36 


2645 


73 


4 


3 48 


125 42 


Goochland, 


11 


25 


250 


57 


G030 


106 


4 


4 60 


262 57 


Halifax, 


12 


GO 


looo 


a-12 


16541 


69 


4 


2 91 


704 21 


Hampshire, 


14 


48 


800 


545 


22048 


40 


4 


1 67 


912 14 


Hanover, 


12 


50 


350 


36 


3486 


97 


4 


4 59 


165 20 


Hardy, 


15 


21 


2.50 


100 


764G 


76 


4 


3 32 


332 23 


Harrison, 


15 


86 


900 


754 


3G200 


48 


21 


1 29 


976 13 


Henry, 


5 


10 


90 


65 


4312 


66 


3i 


2 30 


149 52 


Henrico, 


- 


- 


— 

















Isle of Wight, 


10 


29 


350 


198 


9902 


50 


4 


2 24 


442 98 


James City, 


- 


- 


— 


— 








— 





OF VIRGINIA. 



79 



Jackson, - -^ — — — — — — — 

JelTerson, 14 31 350 217 17105 78 4 3 25 705 26 

Kanawha, 14 24 450 298 lD-217 G4 4 2 73 814 72 

Kin- & aucen, 9 25 200 117 7129 Gl 4 2 73 320 22 

Kini? Ceoi-ffc 6 8 150 56 57t5G 103 4 4 40 249 92 

Km^ William, 7 22 200 G7 5418 81 4 3 52 23G 10 

Lancaster, 9 8 150 45 250G 5G 4 2 84 117 91 

L-c 10 21 500 1G3 972G GO f 2 48 404 34 

Lewis, 9 34 500 235 11GJ4 50 2i 1 30 304 99 

Losran, -- — — — — — ■ — — 

London, 15 75 900 420 29383 70 4 2 96 1230 18 

Lonisa, 12 27 250 123 12260 100 4 4 10 505 13 

Lunenburg, 11 15 300 83 G256 75 4 3 40 282 41 

Madison, 9 15 200 78 5984 76 4 3 18 248 10 

Mason, 9 19 175 127 GG97 53 3J 2 23 283 41 

Matthews, G 13 90 G2 6975 112 3 3 55 220 29 

Mecklenburg, 10 80 300 151 14282 94 4 4 14 625 62 

Middlesex, 9 10 150 l33 1L359 85 4 4 06 539 91 

Monongalia, 9 80 1000 637 32341 51 2i 1 39 889 15 

Monroe 11 25 450 l92 10454 54 3j 2 05 395 40 

Montgomery, 8 9 300 68 4745 70 4 3 05 207 44 

Morgan, 6 9 150 66 3783 57 3j 2 46 162 75 

Nansemond, 11 20 150 66 5373 81 4 3 60 238 51 

Nelson, 7 18 247 57 3689 65 4 2 96 169 06 

New Kent, 9 9 150 28 2037 73 4 3 65 102 22 

Nicholas, 7 18 150 99 5214 52 3 1 82 179 80 

Norfolk County, 8 33 300 154 11423 74 4 3 13 482 36 

Norfolk Borough, G 30 100 80 22436 280 U 4 28 342 55 

Northampton, 9 16 130 99 G835 69 4 3 00 297 65 

Northumberland, 9 17 190 89 5331 58 4 2 73 242 89 

Nottoway, 8 16 150 40 5390 l35 4 6 19 247 70 

Orange, U 40 240 90 7745 86 4 3 70 333 78 

Ohio, 10 40 500 282 23032 81 2 1-12 1 84 520 06 

Patrick, 12 19 150 135 8786 G5 3 2 09 281 92 

Page, 6 20 250 109 5469 50 4 2 17 237 25 

Pendleton, 15 36 400 356 14298 40 3i 1 45 515 43 

Preston, 7 23 " 220 190 9374 49 3 1 61 306 14 

Petersburg, 12 18 200 30 6900 230 3 7 62 228 57 

Prince Edward, 10 15 150 38 3008 79 4 3 33 126 45 

Prince George, 11 12 120 26 3028 116 4 5 30 137 80 

Prince William, 8 18 400 178 11655 65 4 2 81 500 18 

Princess Anne, 8 14 200 50 6124 124 4 2 36 267 94 

Pittsylvania, 15 54 llOO 368 19752 54 3j 2 26 830 62 

Powhatan, 6 20 80 23 2596 113 4 4 64 106 84 

Pocahonta-s, 5 17 120 100 6018 00 3 2 11 211 29 

Randolph, 9 22 350 197 7947 40 3i 1 37 280 64 

Richmond County, -- — — — — — — — 

Richmond City, ' 9 45 400 70 15750 225 3f 8 42 497 70 

Rockbridge, " 12 44 460 320 21692 67 3| 2 73 873 76 

Rockingham, 13 85 700 351 22510 64 3j 2 54 890 05 

Russell, 8 17 300 187 11608 62 3 2 24 418 44 

Stafford, 9 15 250 152 8299 54 3} 2 00 305 11 

Shenandoah, 13 82 800 522 35675 68 4 2 89 1512 6l 

Scott, 7 23 475 143 5592 39 4 1 69 242 61 

Smyth, -- — — — — — — — 

Southampton, U 26 250 212 12203 57 4 2 43 515 45 

Spottsylvania, 12 30 200 120 8961 75 4 3 35 402 39 

Surry 5 9 130 80 8449 105 4 4 67 374 27 

Sussex, 11 25 200 95 7919 83 4 3 57 338 95 

Tazewell, -- — — — — — — — 

Tyler, 11 20 450 210 10958 51 2 1 20 259 46 

Washington, -- — — — — — — — 

Warwick, 9 2 37 5 193 40 4 4 08 20 42 

AVestmoreland, -- — — — — — — — 

Williamsburg, 7 4 20 4 239 60 4 3 14 12 56 



80 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

Wythe, 
Wood, 
York, 



29 250 
9 34 400 
7 11 120 


159 

288 
83 


9437 

11627 

7020 


59 
40 

48 


3i 
3' 
4 


2 35 
1 27 

3 52 


373 53 
366 34 

292 68 


2833 32801 
I 2 


16669 
3 


1083103 
4 


42033 06 
5 



RECAPITULATION. 

Number of schools in lOO counties and towns, as per column 1, - f'^'^'i 

Number of poor children in ditto, as per column 2, - - - - 32,804 

Number of poor children sent to common schools in ditto, as per 

column 3, 16,669 

Number sent to district schools, as per statement A, - - 412 

Total number of poor children educated, - - 17,081 

Amount expended for tuition at common schools, and all other 
expenses, for books, compensation to officers, &c. as per col- 
umn 5, - - 42,033 06 

Ditto, at district free schools, as per statement A, - 963 21 

Total expenditure for tuition, &c. - - - ^42,996 27 

Average number of days actual attendance of each poor child 

at common schools, ....------ 6o 

Average amount paid for each poor child, including books and 
writing materials, clerks' and treasurers' compensation, at 
common, schools, ...- $2 52J 

Ditto, at district free schools, per statement A, 2 33j 

Average rate paid for each day's actual attendance at common. 
schools, including books, &c. and officers' compensation, - - - 3 9-10 

STATEMENT A. 

Abstract of School Comviissmiers' Reports, shewing the operations of the 
District Free Schools, in the Counties in tchich they have been establish- 
ed, during the year ending oOth September^ 1832; 

y ^2^ -2-^ -2^ £. .^ -2 o fl ^ 

g ^.S d^ d.S I o -^^2 ^ 

COUNTIES. -B 'B^ i^ i^ " . fe gS^S I 

.^■2j£. S~gSf, g-^ c§ ^So?^ 

.o.;5 C^cl C_ iSo ^ti -soaj,© Co 

O o '^ '—' c<ufi CJ"^ O*-' CT" ot/2-jV-i 3(o 

Franklin, • 34 8 398 00 — — 436 342 25 154 
Monroe, 31 2 — — — — 54 21 10 
Washington, 49 24 914 00 3167 00 4081 00 1067 566 75 248 

__^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 9^3 2 1 412 

The actual payments made by school commissioners to teachers, being 
$963 21, the actual cost of each poor child, /or the portio?is of the year 
for which such payments were made, Avill average $2 33|. 

COLLEGES. 

WiLLiA>f AND Mary — This institution, which is at Williamsburg, 
formerly the capitol of Virginia, and next to Harvard College, the oldest 
in the United State?, derives its name from William and I\Inrv, sove- 



OF VIRGINIA. 81 

TeiQfns of En^lund, Ly -whom its charter was graiited In 1G9I. It re- 
ceived with its charter a g-raiit of £1,08;"), 20,1)00 acres uf iatul, a/id a penny 
a pound on tobacco exported from Virginia and Maryland; and it was fur- 
ther aided by private donations, particuhndy by the munificence of the Hon. 
Robert Boyle. In lO'Jo, the Assembly of V^iririnia ordered that it should 
be built at Williamsburfr, and made some additional grants, so that its an- 
nual income became upwards of .-G3,0C0;but it was subsequently greatly di- 
minished. — " The fumls," as recently stated by the President of the college, 
"consist of bonds, stocks, lands, and houses, amounting in all to about 
$150,000, not yielding, however, a revenue in proportion to the amount." — 
" No regular list of students or graduates, has been kept till within the last 
few years; the number, therefore, of alumini we cannot determine; but it 
is certainly greater than from any other college south of the Potomac. — 
Owing to peculiar circumstances, the graduates have always been few. 
Nine-tenths of the students have gone through one course without apply- 
ing for a degree." Many of the most eminent men of Virginia were edu- 
cated here. The condition of the college, at different periods, has been very 
variable; but, after a period of declension, it has had, for some years past, a 
considerable degree of prosperity. It is under the legislative government 
of a board of 24 trustees who supply the vacancies in their OAvn body. 

The college edifice is a large misshapen pile of buildings. The college 
library contains 3,500, and the students' librar3% 600 volumes. 

The Rev. James Blair, D. D. was named president in the charter, but is 
said not to have entered upon the duties of the office till 1729; he died in 
1742, and was succeeded by the Rev. William Stith, who died in 1750. — 
The Rev. James Madison, D. D. (Bishop of Virginia,) was president from 
1777 to 1812. His successors have been the Rev. W. H. Wilmer, Dr. J. 
Augustine Smith, and the Rev. Dr. Adam Empie. 

Fdcully hi 1833.— Rev. Adam Empie, D. D., Pref. tj- Prof. Mor.Phil. 

William B. Rogers, Prof. Chcmislnj and Nat. Philosojihi/. 

Dabney Brown, Prof. Humaniii/. 

Thomas R. Dew, Prof History, Metaphysics, cfc. 

Robert Saunders, Jr. Prof Mathematics. 

Beverley Tucker, Prof Law, 

Number of students in the Senior and Junior classes in 1833, 26; irre- 
gular students 15; law students 12; academical 37; total 90. Graduates 
in 1829, 5; in 1830, 7: in 1831, 15; in 1832, 11. 

Commencement is on the 4th of July. — One vacation, from commence- 
ment to the last Monday in October. 

Annual Expenses — for a Junior student; board and lodging $100 ; wash- 
ing, fuel, candles, &c. $20; three fees for the moral, mathematical and che- 
mical courses, and half a {cc for the metaphysical course, $70; matricula- 
tion $5; — total $195. For a senior student"$185. The law course com- 
mences at the opening of the college, and terminates on the Saturday be- 
fore the last Monday in April. Expenses, board, washing, and fuel, $90; 
tuition $20; matriculation $5; — total, $115. 

The grammar school opens on the 15th of October, and closes on the 1st 
of Aug-ust. Expenses, board, including every thing, $100; tuition $20; — 
total $l20. 

H.VMPDEN Sydney, in Prince Eilward county: 

Washington College, in Rockbridge: 
11 



82 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

Randolh Macox, at Boydton, iu Mecklenburg co : are all flourishing' 
institutions, and a full account may be seen of them in their respective coun- 
ties. We pass on to the principal literary institution of the state, the 

University of Virginia. — The legislature of Virginia at the session 
of 1817-18, adopted measures for establishing an institution then proposed 
to be named Central College, and 24 commissioners were appointed to select 
a site for it. They accordingly selected a pleasant and elevated spot nearly 
two miles from Charlottesville, in the county of Albemarle, not far from the 
centre of the population of the state. Their choice was confirmed by the 
legislature in 1819, and an act was passed incorporating the institution by 
the title of the University of Virginia, which went into operation in 1825. 
It was erected and endowed by tlie state; and it owes its origin and peculiar 
organization chiefly to Mr. Jefferson. It has a fine collection of buildings, 
consisting of four parallel ranges about 600 feet in length, and 200 feet 
apart, suited to the accommodation of 9 professors and upwards of 200 stu- 
dents; which together with the real estate, cost $333,996. It posscscs a 
very valuable library of 10,000 volumes, and a philosophical apparatus, 
which together cost $36,948. The state gives annually $15,000 for the 
support of the insthution. The whole annual income of the University is 
about $18,500. The professors are paid partly by a fixed salary and part- 
ly by fees received from the students; but the sums which they severally 
receive are widely different, varying in ordinary years from $1,600 to 
$3,500. 

The plan of this University differs materially from that of other institu- 
tions of the kind in the United States. The students are not divided into 
four classes, Avith a course of studies embracing four years; hut the differ- 
ent branches of .science and literature here taught are styled schools, and 
the student is at liberty to attend which he pleases, and graduate in each, 
when prepared. The first degree was conferred in 1828 — the number of 
graduates in that year was 10; in 1829, 12; 1830, 30: 1831, 20; 1832,46; 
total, 118; of these 16 were graduates in ancient languages; 14 in mathe- 
matics; 23 in natural philosophy; 9 in chemistry; 17 in moral philosophy; 
22 in medicine; and 17 in law. The title of "Master of Arts of the Uni- 
versity of Virginia," was conferred on one student at the commencement of 
1832, and on several in each year since. To obtain this title ft is necessa- 
ry to gradaute in the several schools of mathematics, ancient languages, 
moral philosophy, natural philosophy, chemistry, and by a recent enactment 
in some two of the modern languages. 

^Ancient Languages, from 1825 to '33, 519 — in 1833, 58 
Modern " 

Mathematics, " " 

Number of Stu- Natural Philosophy, 

dents in the <| Chemistry &l Materia Medica, 

School of Medicine, " 

Anatomy and Surgery, " 
Moral Philosophy, " " 

Law, " " " 

Annual Expenses. — Board, including bed, washing, and attendance, dur- 
ing the session from September 10 to .Tiily 20, $100f fuel and candles $15; 
room-rent $8; use of library and public rooms, $15; fees to three profes- 
sessors (to on(> only $50" to two, $30 each; if more than two, *25 each.) 
$75; total $213. 



425— 


" 22 


619— 


" 76 


410— 


" 83 


407— 


" 69 


238— 


" 40 


183— 


" 35 


252— 


" 38 


201 — 


" 37 



OF VTRGINIA, 



83 



Foe nil II ill 183 1. — Gosnor Tlanison, Prof. Ancient Languages. 

Georg-t' IJhvttcrman, Prof. Modern Languages. 

Charles Bonuv'oastle, Prof. Malhcniatics. 

Robert Patterson, Prof. Natural Philosophy. 

John P. Emmet, Prof Chemistry and Materia Medica. 

Aug-iistus L. Warner, Prof. Anatomy and Surgery. 

Alfred T. Magill, Prof Medicine. ' 

George Tucker, Prof. Moral Philosophy and Political Economy. 

John A. G. Davis, Prof Law. 

Chairman of the Faculty, in 1834, Professor Bonnycastle. — The chair, 
man is annually chosen from the professors, by the Visitors. 

Board of Visitors, in 1834, Joseph C. Cabell, Rector, Chapman Johnson, 
John H. Cocke, Thomas J. Randolph, W. C. Rives, and William H. Brod- 
nax. The Visitors are appointed by the governor and council, every four 
years, and choose their own rector. A more detailed account of this insti- 
tution is given in Albemarle county. 

MILITARY ORGANIZATION, ARMS, &c. 

Abstract of the annual return of the Militia of the State of Virginia, for 

the year 1833 — viz: 

General Stafl', 104 

Cavalry, 7,635 

Artillei-y, 5,301 

Grenadiers, Light Infontry, Riflemen, and Infantry of the line, 89,079 



Total Militia, - 
Decrease during 1833, 

Which are divided as follows 
Divisions, - - - - 

Brigades, - - - - 
Regiments, 
Troops of Cavalry, 
Companies of Artillery, 

In these divisions the ofRicers 
Major Generals. 
Brigadier Generals - 
Adjutant Inspector and Gluar- 

ter Master General, 
Aids-de-Camps, 
Division Inspectors, 
Division duarter Masters, 
Brigade Inspectors, - 
Brio-adc duartcr Masters, 
Colonels, 

Lieutenant Colonels, 
Majors, . . . - 
Adjutants, 
Quarter Masters, 
Paymasters, 
Chaplains, 



C7.2. 



102,119 



2:2 
154 
110 

72 



Companies of Grenadiers, - 5 

do. Light Infantry, 74 

do. Riflemen, - 120 

do. Infantry of the line,927 



and men, are divided thus : 

4 1 Surgeons, - - - 138 

21; Surgeons Mates, - - 130 

I Captains, - - - 1080 

1 Lieutenants, - - - 1095 
•29| Ensigns, ... 588 

4; Cornets, ... 77 

4 Sergeant Majors, - - 126 

22! Quarter Master Sergeants, 1 15 

19: Musicians, - - - 860 

139; Buglers and Trumpeters, 63 

135' Sergeants, - - - 3642 

135! Corporals, - - - 2158 

138 Privates, - - - 91128 

141 Commissioned Officers, - 4037 

137 Non-Commissioned Officers, 

2 Musicians and Privates, 98082 



84 



GENERAL DESCRIPTION 



Arms, Sj-c. in the hands of ihe militia; and remaining in the Lexington 
Arsenal, September 30, 1833, I'iz: 



Brass four pounders, 
do. six pounders, 

Iron four pounders, 
do. six pounders, 

Muskets, - 

Bayonets, 

Carbines, - 



2G 

?7i81 

JG857 

120 



Rifles, - - . - 2174 

Horsemans' pistols, - - 1991 

Cavalry swords, - - 2053 

Artillery swords, - - 353 

Colors, .... 167 

Drums and fifes, - - 375 

Bugles, Trumpets, &c. &c. 22. 



Reports of Arms, d^^c Remaining in the Armory at Richmond, on theZ(ytk 
September, i833— viz: 



Brass mortars, - - - 2 

32 pounders, brass, - - G 

Long G pounders, brass, - 1 

24 pounders, iron, - - 4 

12 pounders, iron, - - 36 

6 pounders, iron, - - 129 

4 pounders, iron, - - 43 



Muskets, - - - 38,472; 

Rifles, Virginia manufactory, 880 
do. received from the U. S. 1851. 
Carbines, ... 20 

Pistols, .... 702. 
Cavalry swords, &c. &c. - 312& 



Regulations. — An act for the better organization of the militia, passed^ 
1833-34, revises and consolidates all the existing laws on the subject of the 
militia, with amendments, of which the following are the principal provi- 
sions : the officers are required to be trained by the commandments of regi-- 
ments, instead of by the brigade inspectors; the musters are increased, so 
that there will be one regimental muster in the spring, one battalion muster 
in the fall, and a company muster in the spring and fall, each making fouE 
musters in the year; volunteer companies having two extra additional mus- 
ters, making six in the year, but the regimental courts of enquiry have the 
power Avithin any regiment to dispense with any of the extra musters if 
they think proper, and the power of substitviting battalion musters, in the 
spring, in lieu of the regimental muster, and also to prescribe the time and 
place of muster; the commandants of regiments to prescribe the time and, 
place of the trainings of the oflicers, instead of the brigadier generals, as 
heretofore. All companies are to be officered with a captain, four lieuten- 
ants, five sergeants, and six corporals each; volunteer companies are per- 
mitted to adopt their own by-laws, and the commandants thereof to appoint 
the time for their extra musters; fines for faiHng to attend such extra mus- 
ters to be imposed by the courts of enquiry, to be collected by the sheriffs, 
and paid to the treasurers of buch companies, to be disposed of by the com- 
panies as they may deem proper; all vuiformed volunteer companies to be 
armed. The act exempts from militia duty, (except in time of war, insur- 
rection or invasion,) all members of volunteer companies who produce to 
their regimental courts of enquiry, certficates from iheir commanding offi- 
cers of seven years service. Companies of artillery equijjpod with ord- 
nance, to be allowed one dollar per day for each horse employed in drawing 
their artillery and caissons, and the governor is authorized to require any 
company of artillery to perform the duties of light artillery. 

Tlie uniform of the respective corps of the militia, to be the same with 
that of the United States' army, unless the governor, by proclamation, shall 
otherwise order; but volunteer companies now uniformed, are not required 
to change their uniform. Battalioi courts of enquiry to be held in October 



OF VIROTNIA. 85 

or Novonilier, and reo-imontal courts in NovcmLor or DcGcmber; the act 
authorizinif boards of" the ollicers of the different regiments to be convened 
at any time to transact any other business of the regiment otiier tliun the 
assessment or remission of fines. Tlie fines on non-commissioned officers 
and sokh'ers for failing to attend musters, to be not k'ss than 75 cents, nor 
more than three dolhirs for each delinquency. Musicians may be allowed by 
the regimental courts of enquiry, two dollars per day for each lawful mus- 
ter, the claims to be paid by the sheriff within three months thereafter, and 
provision is made for the more prompt payment than heretofore of drafts for 
the purposes of the militia. One stand of colors only is allowed to each 
regiment, and colors and musical instruments are not allowed oftener than 
once in ten }i?ars, nor unless sanctioned by the regimental court of enquiry. 
The adjutant general is allowed the brevet rank of a brigadier general. — 
The executive to cause the act, together with the articles of war, to be print- 
ed, and one copy to be furnished to each commissioned officer. The act not 
to take eflect till iht' first of January, 1835. 

LUNATIC ASYLUMS. 

This state has two lunatic asj'lums: one is located in eastern Virginia, at 
"Williamsburg, .Tames city county, the other in western Virginia, at Staun- 
ton, Augusta countJ^ There were in the lunatic hospital at Williamsburg, 
on the first of January, 1834, 37 male and 18 female patients — total 55. — 
During the year 1833, nine died, and three were discharged. The aggre- 
gate expense for the support of this institution during the past year, was- 
$9,250 87, according to the director's report. In the lunatic hospital at 
Staunton, there were on the 28th day of December, 1833, 19 male, and 1& 
female patients — total 37; during the same year, one died. There Avas ex- 
pended for the support of this- establishment, during the past year, $G,07& 
31, according to the report of the committee. 

A considerable addition is now being made to the building of the las4E 
mentioned asylum. 

PENITENTIARY. 

We believe this system has been as successful in few states, as in Virginia, 
The annexed table exhibits the fact that it is only necessary to send back 
again one in (nearly) every twenty-one ; Avhich seems to exhibit a very suc- 
cessful reformation: — whilst the reports of its fiscal concerns prove that so. 
far from being a burthen, it brings to the State a small annual revenue. To- 
punish crime, and reform the criminal, Avithout expense to the state, is the 
object in view: — our system certainly attains the latter completely, and ap- 
^roximates, in a very beneficial degree, to the former: 



80 



GENERAL DESCRIPTION 



A TABLE sheioi/ig the number of convicts, received in ihe Penitentiary 
of Virginia, from the time it teas opened in 1800, ^eith the pardons, 
deaths^ escapes, and discharges in each year, iintil the oOth of Novem- 
ber, 1833, and the number remaining on that day. 





■^3 
> 
o 


!=: 

O 


J-4 

a 

O 




i 


6 !>. 


O 


1800 


21 


— 


1 


1801 


23 


— 


1 


1802 


44 


— 


1 


1803 


55 


3 


2 


1804 


41 


1 


1 


1805 


50 


— 


1 


1806 


40 


5 


5 


1807 


54 


18 


3 


1808 


37 


11 


— 


1809 


40 


8 


1 


1810 


25 


11 


3 


1811 


33 


10 


5 


1812 


50 


34 


— 


1813 


52 


17 


5 


1814 


33 


23 


o 


1815 


45 


9 


6 


181G 


74 


9 


3 


1817 


77 


16 


o 


1818 


60 


9 


7 


1819 


80 


12 


11 


1820 


93 


20 


9 


1821 


81 


13 


15 


1822 


103 


20 


12 


1823 


83 


12 


14 


1824 


62 


15 


16 


1825 


34 


1 


23 


182G 


52 


6 


18 


1827 


43 


4 


17 


1828 


50 


6 


17 


1829 


55 


4 


21 


1830 


57 


4 


15 


1831 


49 


5 


25 


1832 


43 


13 


51 


1833 


37 


11 


9 






■^Xi 



^ 



10 
16 
31 
33 
21 
34 
22 
29 
31 
20 
18 
11 
33 
15 
14 
26 
39 
47 
34 
44 
55 
60 
66 
45 
47 
33 
28 
21 
24 
25 
22 
20 
19 



P- Vi . 

1— I fc- 

a" -^ 

•^ o 

o o aj 



19 
41 
68 
87 
90 
118 
113 
124 
121 
121 
112 
112 
117 
114 
106 
122 
158 
171 
168 
191 
211 
209 
220 
211 
191 
154 
149 
143 
149 
155 
168 
165 
124 






<M pi 



4) t« f 

O uj f- 

<D U . 

f- « O 



1786 



330 



330 



11 



993Av'ge,122 86 



OF VIRGINIA. 



87 



1 nesc cnnvicrs Averc 


empio 


y^^ 


a m I 


nc lollownig 


occupations, viz. 




Boot and Siioo making, 






14 


Splicers, 


- 


3 


Harness making, - 


- 


- 


2 


Fuller and Washer, 


1 


Tailoring, 


- 


- 


10 


Wheelwrig 


Its, 


r 


Blacksmiths, 


- 


- 


8 


Carpenters, 


. 


G 


Strickors, 


'■ 


- 


8 


Coopers, 


- 


7 


Nailors, 


- 


- 


3 


Yard hand, 


pumps, &c. 


2 


Mill Stone makers, 


- 


- 


2 


Runners, 


. 


2 


Firemen, 


- 


- 


1 


Nurses, 


. - « - 


2 


Weavers, 


- 


- 


17 


Cooks, 


. 


3 


Quillers and spoolers. 




- 


5 


Clerk, 


. - - . 


I 


Wool carders. 


- 


. 


2 


Invalids, 


- 


5 


Wool spinners. 

Total 






2 








nnmb 


er 


of men, 


. 


113 


Women (all colored persons) 


emploj 


ed sewing, 


♦ 


9 



Total of all colors of both sexes, - • 122 

Number of slaves for transportation, „ . . 7 

The act making solitude not more than half or less than one-eigth of the 
term of conviction, and requiring each person to he confined in his dark 
and solitary cell for six months immediately after being received, was in 
force from the 1st of March, 1S24, to the Dth of March, 182G. It was then 
provided, that three months of solitary confinement should be suffered at 
the commencement of each person's term, and three months more at the 
close. This law continued in force until the 27th February, 1829; when 
it was provided that the first three months should be omitted; but the three 
months at the close of the term was continued until the 9th of March, 
1833, Avhen solitude was reduced to one-twelfth part of the whole term and 
not to exceed one month at any one time. The wall round the prison was 
not erected till 1824. 

Of the number of prisoners received into the Penitentiary from 1st Oc- 
tober, 1832 to 30th Sept. 1833, there were for- 



Murder, 


- 


- 


4 


Horse stealing, 


6 


Voluntary manslaug 


iter. 


- 


5 


Grand larceny, 


10 


Unlawful stabbing, 


- 


- 


2 


Forgery, .... 


2 


Stealing free negroes 




- 


1 


Passing counterfeit bank notes. 


3 


Arson, 


- 


- 


2 


Bigamy, . - - - 


1 


Robbery, 


- 


- 


1 


Felon V, . . . - 


6 


Stealing slaves. 


- 


- 


1 







Total, 



44 



INTERNAL IMPROVEMENT. 

Virginia is considerably behind her sisters New York and Pennsylva- 
nia in the extent of her improvements. For this several reasons may be 
assigned; first, her habitual caution and prudence in legislation, requiring" 
demonstration of its utility before she will embark her capital in any new 
enterprize ; second, the sectional jealousies of different portions of the state, 
the interest of several often conflicting, with regard to any specific im- 
provement proposed; third, the mismanagement of her first enterprizes in 
this field, have contributed to dampen her ardour ever since. Of late she 
seems to be more inclined to arouse from her lethargy. There is a per- 



88 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

manen't fund devoted to the purpose of internal improvement ; by a report 
in Sept. 30, 1833 this fund amounted to $1,423,601 11, to which may be 
added a disposable fund of $966,847 80, [of which however $61,111 1 1 is 
at present improductive] makino: in all $2,415,586 50; from Avhich the an- 
aiual income is $144,934 00. This fund is managed by 13 directors styled 
the " Board of Public Works ; of which board the Governor, Treasurer, 
■and First Auditor are ex oiFicio members. The board meets annually on 
the first Monday in January. The members receive $4 per diem, and 20 
-cents a mile for travelling. 

The views of Governor Tazewell upon this subject are interesting: — 
"Another great Corporation connected with the fiscal concerns of the 
'Common weaith, is "the Board of Public Works." This institution was 
'established in 1816, and endowed with all the stocks then held by the state 
in diflerent Turnpike and Canal Companies, in the Bank of Virginia and 
the Farmers' Bank of Virginia, and with all the interest the state might 
■acquire thereafter as a bonus or premium for the incorporation of other 
Banks, or for the increase of their capital, or the renewal of their charters. 
These funds and their proceeds, aUhough nominally much greater, cannot 
be justly estimated, in money, at more than about two millions of dollars, 
which may now, therefore, be considered as constituting the capital stock 
of the Corporation. The receipts from this capital are equal to about 
$115,000 annually. 

''The object of this institution, was to invest its annual profits, and the pro- 
ceeds of such part of its capital as it might be thought judicious so to invest, 
in any work of Internal Improvement, promising when completed, to be of 
advantage to the Commonwealth, and profitable to the other proprietors of 
it. But aware of the difficulties that Avould attend the judicious selection of 
such works, the authors of the Corporation established a rule, by which it 
■should be governed in every case. When any work of Internal Improve- 
ment Avas proposed, if after the requisite surveys of it had been made, and 
its cost estimated, by officers and at the expense of the Corporation, three- 
•fifths of the capital deemed necessary for the completion of such a Avork was 
subscribed by individuals, the residue Avas to be taken by the Corporation, and 
paid for by it rateably Avith the sums advanced by the priA-ate stock-holders. 
"If this scheme had been carried into full effect according to the original 
plan, it seems quite obvious, that all the funds of the Corporation Avould 
have been ultimately invested in the stocks of comparatively small under- 
takings, to the completion of Avhich the enterprize and unaided capital of in- 
dividuals Avould have been perfectly adequate: Avhile great Avorks, the very 
magnitude of which Avould prevent the combination of a sufficient number of 
individuals to subscribe the proportion necessary to secure the co-operation 
'of the state, Avould never have been carried into effect. Thus, Avhile some 
partial improvements might have been made, no AA'ork of general and perma- 
-nent utility Avould have been accomplished, and the great object of the Cor- 
poration must haA-e been defeated. The discovery of this was at last made ; 
but not until more than $000,00Q of the capital of the institution had been 
im-ested in undertakings since abandoned, or in those the profits of Avhich 
are quite inconsiderable, or much less than the average rate of profit in the 
country generally. 

"To remedy this defect, a modification of the original plan AA-as adopted, 
The Commonwealth assumed upon itself exclusively, the completion of cer- 
tain great Internal Improvements, in Avhich, from their very nature, the co- 



OF VIRGINIA. 89 

operation of a sufficient number of individuals could not be expected, leavino' 
all others, deemed of less general utility, to the support of the Board of Pub- 
lic Works. Thus the subject of Internal Improvement has become divided 
into parts — in one of which the state is concerned exclusively, while in tho 
other, the Board of Public Works is but a co-partner with individuals. 

"The effect of this division of the public interests, has been attended with 
some hazard already, and unless much discretion is used hereafter, will be 
ruinous to the Board of Public Works, and seriously oppressive to the state 
itself The funds of the Corporation not being equal to the immediate ac- 
complishment of all the great objects in which the Commonwealth was con- 
cerned exclusively, and to the advancement, at the same time, of the others 
in which the Board of Public Works was interested as a co-partner with in- 
dividuals, to supply the deficiency, resort was had to loans. The payment 
of the interest and the reimbursement of the principal of these loans were 
■charged, in the first instance, upon the stock for the benefit of which the 
loans had been effected: but should this prove insufficient, the funds of the 
Board of Public Works were made subject to these payments; and should 
a deficiency still exist, the Treasury itself was made accountable for it. 

"The example of relying upon loans for the accomplishment of such pub- 
lic works being once set, was soon followed in the case of works to be con- 
structed at the joint charge of the state and of individuals. Large sums have 
been borrowed to enable the paj^ment of the subscription of the Corporation 
to these works also. The payment of the interest and the reimbursement 
>of the principal of these loans, were charged, in like manner, upon the cor- 
porate funds, in the first instance: but should these prove insufficient, the 
Treasury itself, as before, is made chargeable with any deficiency. 

"Thus it has happened, that while a considerable portion of the capital of 
this Corporation has been invested in stocks absolutely unproductive, or 
vei'y nearly so, the whole of this capital is now charged with the payment 
of the interest and reimbursement of the principal of large debts, for which 
she Treasury itself is ultimately liable. As yet, the income of the Corpo- 
ration is equal to the satisfaction of all its expenses, and to the payment of 
the interest charged upon it. It is believed also, that the capital is suffi- 
cient to discharge the principal of all these debts. But should any ad- 
ditional burthen be imposed upon this Corporation, at this time, it is proba- 
ble that its means would not suffice to meet all its engagements, without im- 
pairing this capital. In that event, it is obvious that ere long, the whole 
Aveight of all these engagements must fall upon the Treasury, Avhen to pre- 
serve the credit of the state, new and burthensome taxes must be imposed 
upon the people. 

"To prevent such a result, I recommend to you most earnestly, that no 
new charge be imposed upon this Corporation, at present. In a few years, 
it is expected very confidently, that all the works in which it is concerned 
and which arc now in progress, Avill be completed. Unless individuals 
have been greatly deceived in their estimates of the effects of these works, 
the funds invested in them will then become productive. The profits of 
this capital, or its proceeds Avill then enable the easy and speedy reimburse- 
ment of the debts with which the Corporation is now charged. The whole 
funds of the Board will then become applicable to other undertakings; and 
the work of Internal Improvement may again proceed with increased vigor 
and advantage. But if a different course is pursued, the ruin of this Cor- 
poration may be the too probable conseq\ience — grievous taxation must fol- 
12 



90 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

low as the necessary effect of its ruin; and the work of Internal Improve- 
ment will receive a shock from which it will not recover for a long period, 

"As a fiscal agent, the Board of Public Works has been, and under ju- 
dicious management will continue to be, of great advantage to the Com- 
monwealth. So long as its plans meet public approbation, it will call into 
useful action the unemployed capital of individuals, making this productive 
to its proprietors, and beneficia] to the community. The very debts which 
it may be compelled to contract occasionally, Avill effect all the beneficial 
results, without producing any of the evils attendant upon a public debt — 
provided they are confined to a limit, within which the income of the Cor- 
poration, after satisfying its expenses, will certainly pay the interest, and its 
capital surely reimburse the principal. But if a different course is adopted, 
this Institution, instead of being an useful fiscal agent, will be worse than 
useless. It will then become positively mischievous, acting as a perpetual 
drain of the Treasury and exhausting its funds, repleted often as its coffers 
must be, by hea\'y exactions from the people." 

Navigation East of the Appalachian Si/stcm. — The eastern part of Vir- 
ginia is peculiarly favored in facilities for water transportation, in the im- 
mense and deep bay of Chesapeake and its large tributaries, the James, the 
York, the Rappahannock, and the Potomac. The earth affords no other 
instance of so great a physical change in so short a distance, as that between 
the shallow sounds of North Carolina, and the deep water of the Chesa- 
peake; in the latter the largest ships of war have adequate depth almost to 
the very verge of the primitive rock ; ships of the line ascend the main bay 
nearly to its head, — the Potomac to Alexandria, — some distance into York 
river, — and up James river to the mouth of Nansemond : sloops draAving 
six or seven feet water penetrate into innumerable creeks upon both sides 
of the bay. Nature seems also to have been especially liberal to this state 
in the peculiar direction of the channels of her rivers, making her eastern 
border a common recipient of all flowing east of the Appalachian System. 
The rivers of Georgia and the Carolinas, from Alatamaha to Cape Fear 
inclusive (and we might say without much violence to Roanoke) floAv S. E. 
or S. S. E.: but from the southern border of Virginia to the Susquehan- 
nah they floAV east, and the latter river south. Much has been done to im- 
prove the navigation in eastern Virginia, but little when compared with 
the extent of country and the number of lines of communication inviting at- 
tention. 

James River is navigable for vessels of 250 tons to Warwick, and 125 
tons to Rocket's, the port of Richmond. At that city commences the falls 
or rapids, to pass which by a navigable canal, the old James River Com- 
pany was chartered in 1784, and were collecting tolls in the year 1794. 
(See Richmond, Henrico County.) The Richmond canal entered a basin 
on the western side of the city, it was 25 feet wide, and 3 deep, and extended 
originally 2J miles to its junction with the river, in Avhich space there are 
12 locks, and a fall of 1 80 feet. Three miles above the falls there Avas another 
short canal, with 3 locks, overcoming a fall of 34 feet. These canals and 
locks, Avith other slight improvements opened a tolerable navigation of 12 
inches AA'ater to Lynchburg. In 1825 the James Ri\^er Company declared 
canal navigation complete to the head of Maiden's Adventure tails, in Gooch- 
land County, a distance of 30^ miles from Richmond. The Avidth of the 
canal is 40 feet, depth of AA'ater 3^ feet, and the expense Avas $623,225; the 
fall OA'ercome AA'as 140^- feet. This last impro\'ement AA'as probably in pro- 



OF VIRGINIA. 91 

portion to its mag-nitudc the most promptly executed work at that time ac- 
complished iu the United States. Besides these there is another canal 
through the Blue Ridge, about 7 miles long, and 30 feet wide, overcoming 
a fall of 100 feet. 

James River and Kanawha Communication. — The necessity of opening 
a complete communication between the Ohio and Chesapeake by this line, 
has been felt by all classes in Virginia, indeed it is admitted that without i^ 
she must sink to a very low ebb when compared with her more enterprising 
sisters, in wealth, population, and importance. There has already been ex. 
pended on this line of improvement $1,274,.583, of which $638,883 86, 
have been expended on the lower James River Canal, the old and new im- 
provements, — $365,207 02 on the mountain canal, — $87,389,81 on the 
Kanawha, — and $171,982 49 on turnpike roads and bridges from Coving- 
ton to the Kanawha; but these improvements though of great local advan- 
tage to the sections of country in which they are situated, by no means es- 
tablish a continuous conrmunication. To effect this all-important object the 
Legislature in 1831-2, granted a charter of incorporation to the James 
River and Kanawha Company, with a capital of $5,000,000. This char- 
ter was at first liberal, but has since been most particularly and specially 
favored by the Legislature, for the purpose of inducing individual subscrip- 
tion; exempting the shares from taxation, making the charter perpetual, 
allowing the Banks to subscribe, and subscribing for the state an amount 
far beyond her usual proportion in improvements, &c. These advantages, 
and the unremitting exertions of some patriotic citizens, have (it is believed) 
procured the necessary amount of subscriptions, and it is probable that the 
noble Avork will be commenced in the spring of 1835. No human foresight 
can see the limit of the advantages attendant on its success, or the evils of 
its failure.* 

Dismal Sicamp Canal is another important improvement, it is said to 
have been the first canal commenced in the United States, and nearly the 
last finished, — it is 22^ miles in length, 40 feet wide, and 6| deep, it passes 
from Deep creek to Joyce's creek at the head of Pasquotank river, and con- 
nects the waters of the Chesapeake with those of Albemarle sound, it is 

»The first Message of Governor Tazewell contains the best history of the legisla- 
tion upon this subject which we have seen: 

"One of the great Corporations created for purposes of Internal laiprovement, in 
which the Commonwealth is now concerned exclusively, is " The James River Corn- 
pan}'." The origin of this must be sought for as far back as the year 1784. In that 
year, the General Assembly passed an Act, whereby they incorporated a Company 
imder this name, with a capital of S100,000, divided into 500 shares, of ijpSOO each, for 
the purpose of clearing and extending the navigation of James River, from tide-wa- 
ter upwards, to the highest parts practicable on the main branch thereof. By seve- 
ral other acts passed afterwards, it was declared, that the highest place practicable 
within the meaning of the first act, was Crow's Ferry at the mouth o* Looney's creek 
in the county of Botetourt; and the capital stock of the Company was increased to 
700 shares. Of these shares, the state became a subscriber for 250, v.-ith which the 
Board of Public Works was afterwards endowed, as a part of its capital, when this 
Institution was created in 181G. 

After the work for the accomplishment of which this charter was granted, had 
been completed, or very nearlj-^ so, it was tliought beneficial to the state, to improve 
the navigation of James River beyond the highest point first fixed, to the mouth of 
Dunlap's Creek — to make a convenient road from thence to the great falls of the Ka- 
nawha River; and to make the last mentioned river navigable from the great falls 
thereof to the river Ohio. But as their charter imposed no such obligations upon the 
then existing Companv, it was necessary to enter into a new contract with it, for that 



02 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

partly in Virginia and partly in North Carolina. This canal was finished, 
upon a circumscribed plan in 1822. Its dimensions have since been en- 
larged. Every quarter of a mile, the canal is widened to 60 feet for turn- 
out stations. The locks newly constructed correspond in dimensions with 
those of the Chesapeake and Delaware canal; and the old ones may be so 
altered when necessary, without great difficulty. The summit level is 16^ 
feet above the Atlantic at mid-tide, and is supplied by a feeder of five miles' 
length from lake Drummond. The basin at Deep creek, is half a mile in 
length, and 1.5 feet above the level of tide-water. The NorthAvest canal 
connects Northwest river [which empties into Currituck sound in N. Caro- 
lina] with the main canal, requiring a cut of 6 miles. This canal is 24 fec-t 
wide, and 4 feet deep. 

The Appomato-x has been improved from its mouth 10 miles to Fisher's 
bar, and around the falls 5 or 6 miles above Petersburg. 

Danville and Da7i river canals are a series of improvements upon the 

purpose. This was accordingly done, by an act passed in February 1820. Under 
this new act, the state undertook to pay, semi-annuallv, to the Stockholders of the 
James River Company, a dividend upon their stock of 12 per centum per annum for 
several years, and of 15 per centum per annum forever thereafter. The state un- 
dertook further, to carry into effect the contemplated improvements, by appropriating 
to that purpose the requisite funds; and in consideration of these things, the Company 
assigned to the Commonwealth, all their tolls and mcome of every kind. 

The state having thus acquired all the interest of the original stockholders in this 
Company, the General Assembly abolished the former Directory of the Company, by 
an Act passed in 1823, and appointing a new Directory of the same, committed the 
management of its concerns to this body. To enable the accomplishment of the ob- 
ject specified, stmdry Acts were passed by the General Assembly, from time to time^ 
authorizing the Directory to borrow large sums of money. For the payment of the 
interest of the sums so to be borrowed, and of the annuity aforesaid, all the income of 
the Company was appropriated to that purpose; and the General Assembly pledged 
its faith, that it would provide such other revenues as might be necessary. Until 
such other sufficient funds should be provided, however, so much of the revenue of 
the Board of Public "Works as might be necessary to supply the deficiency, was ex- 
pressly pledged. 

Under this authority, the President and Directors of this Company have borrowed 
at various periods since the authority was given, and at various rate'; of interest, sun- 
dry sums of money, the aggregate of which amounts now to $1,324,500; and the total 
amount of the annual interest thereon is computed at $76,563 50, exclusive of the 
perpetual annuity of $21,000 payable to the original stockholders of the Company, fov 
the surrender of their charter. 

In 1832, the policy which .seems to have guided the course of legislation upon the 
subject of the James River Company until that time, appears to have been changed. 
Until then, the policyhad directed, that the Commonwealth should possess the exclu- 
sive control over this great institution. To give complete effect to this policy, the state 
had expended much more than a million and a half of dollars in completing the work. 
But on the 16th of March 1832, a joint stock company was again incorporated, pro- 
visionally, to effect the great purpose of connecting the tide water of James River 
with the navigable waters of the Ohio. The capital of this company v^-as to be 
$5,000,000 divided into shares of $100 each. To this stock, the state stipulated, that, 
she would subscribe at once ten thousand shares, or $1,000,000, to be paid for by a 
transfer of the whole interest the Commonwealth held in the works and property of 
the James River Companv; and Avhen three-fifths, or more, of the capital stock .should 
be taken by others, the state agreed, to subscribe for the residue of the $5,000,000, he 
this what it might. Time until the second Monday in December 1832, was allowed, 
for making up the subscription of the private stockholders, but before that dav another 
act was passed, extending this time to the 3d Monday in December 1833, and this ex- 
tended time was again prolonged by another Act, piis.sed by the last Assemblv, until 
the 31st of December of the present vear. The latter Act binds the CommGnS\ ealth 
to subscribe for the remainder of the capital .stock of the contemplated company, 
whenever one moiety of it, or more, should have been taken by other subscribers. 

In this state of things, while the faith of the state is pledged to comply with the 



OF VIRGINIA. 03 

upper Lranclics of the Roanoke river, \ipon wliich in Viro-jnia and North 
Carolina, the Roanoke company have expended about SofjO.OOO. 

Shenandoah Canals are on the river of that name, and near Port Repub- 
lic in Rocking-ham county. A fall of 50 feet is overcome by six short ca- 
nals with stone locks; by which this river is rendered navigable nearly 200 
miles. 

The Rappahannock has been improved by locks, dams, and canals, from 
Fredericksburg to Fox's mills, about 40 miles. This work was done by a 
joint stock company — $30,000 of the stock belonging to individuals, and 
5!!420,000 to the state. 

North- Wcste rn Turnpike. We extract an account of this road from Gov. 
Tazewell's first message, sent to the Legislature Dec. 1st, 1834: 

"Another great Corporation in which the Commonwealth is exclusively 
concerned, is that styled ' The President and Directors of the North- Wes- 
tern Turnpike Road.' This was created by an act pased in the year 1831. • 
Its object was, to construct a road from the town of Winchester, in the 
county of Frederick, to some point on the Ohio River to be thereafter select- 
ed; and the Corporation was authorized to borrow, on the credit of the State, 
a sum or sums of money not exceeding $125,000, for the accomplishment of 
the object of its creation. During the last session of the General Assem- 

conditions proposed by itself, provided these conditions are accepted by others, I feel 
my.self restrained from offering a single remark as to the justice or policy of the con- 
templated scheme. The proffered contract must be carried into elfect by the Com- 
monwealth, be its effects what they may; provided those to whom the proffer has been 
made accept its terms, on their pa'rt, within the time limited. But should these terms 
not be accepted within Ihe time prescribed, I would recommend to your most serious 
consideration a careful revision of them, if a further extension of the time is hereaf- 
ter proposed. 

In any event it will be wise to provide .some means now, by which the debt due by 
the James River Company may be ultimately reimbursed; because, whether the pro- 
. posed arrangement be completed or not, the payment of the principal of this debt will 
remain as a charge upon the state exclusively. Although the payment of the per- 
petual annuity to the original stockholders in this Company, as v.'cll as of the annual 
interest due to the lenders of the large sums borrowed to carry on this great work, i.s 
well and amply provided for already, no provision has ever been made for the reim- 
bursement of the debt itself. It is "true, that no part of this is yet payable, nor will 
become due for many years: but sound policy requires that whenever a debt is con- 
tracted, funds adequate to the extinction of it, at some time or other should be sea- 
•sonably appropriated to that object. Should this be omitted, there is always hazard, 
that the debt will not only become permanent, but that its amount w'ill constantly aug- 
ment; and while this tends, by its influence, to generate great inequalities in a state, 
it must in time disturb its legislation, impair its credit, and produce effects upon its 
currency which cannot be foreseen or prevented. 

As a fiscal agent, the James River Company has been of no benefit as yet. The 
income of this Corporation has not sufficed to satisfy its own expenses, the perpetual 
annuity due to the original stockholders, and the interest of the sums borrowed to 
carry on its works. Owing to this cause, the ability of the Board of Public Works 
has been much cramped of late, by the necessity imposed upon that body to provide 
for the deficiency, out of its funds. But the resources of the James River Company 
have been much influenced for several years last past, by the shortness of the crops 
usually tran-sported to market by the works of that Company; by the reduction of the 
rate of its tolls; as well as by various casualitie.s; which it is to be hoped will not 
again occur. When these causes shall cease to operate, the income of this Company 
will be augmented of course; and if ever its annual resources shall suffice to meet ail 
its annual engagements, it must become a most valuable institution, not only to all 
tho.se who may then be directly interested in it, but to the public and to the Treasury; 
provided this income be made liable to the reimbursement of the principal, and to 
the payment of the interest, of the debt due by the company, for which debt the Com- 
monwealth is ultimately bound," 



94 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

bly, an act was passed, empowering the Corporation to borrow, on the cre- 
dit of the Commonweahh, for the purpose of the road, a further sum not 
exceeding $86,000. 

"Under the authority given to it by these several acts, the Corporation 
has borrowed the sum of $121,000 only, as yet, which may be considered 
as the present capital stock of this institution. For the payment of the in- 
terest, and the final redemption of the principal of all the sums borroAved, 
the nett proceeds and surplus tolls which may arise from the road, after 
keeping the same in repair, were pledged and appropriated, by the terms of 
the charter. But should these funds be found inadequate, the General As- 
sembly has stipulated to provide other and sufficient revenues for these pur- 
poses; and until such other sufficient funds shall be provided by law, so 
much of the revenue of the Board of Public Works, not otherwise appro- 
priated, is pledged, as maybe necessary to supply the deficiency. 

"Although great progress has been made towards the completion of this 
Avork, it is not yet finished. No profi.ts, therefore, have been derived from 
it; but it has hitherto acted as a drain of the income of the Board of Public 
Works, whose revenue is bound to provide for the payment of the interest 
on the capital borrowed. It is expected, however, that this improvement will 
be so far completed during the next year, that it may then be made produc- 
tive; and Avhen finished, but little doubt is entertained, that the income de- 
rived from its tolls, will not only keep it in repair, and satisfy the interest on 
the capital borrowed to construct the work, but v>ill suffice, in time, to re- 
imburse the lenders of this capital. It will then become a valuable fiscal 
agent." 

Railroads, thouo-li but of late introduction into the United States, have 
attracted considerable attention in Virginia ; one has been lately executed 
styled the Chesterfield Railroad, near Richmond. The results of this road 
are more brilliant m proportion to its extent, than those of any similar work 
in the Union. It is about 13 miles long, and connects the coal-mines of 
Chesterfield with tide-water. The whole capital invested in it, including 
cars for transportation, stables, horses, i&c. was $150,000. The trade on 
it is already 50,000 tons per annum, and the receipts for transportation du- 
ring the year 1833 were 870,000. The stock is of course at a high premium. 

The Petersburg and Roanoke Railroad was the second which went into 
operation in the state, which it did in midsummer 1833; the cars running 
daily between its extreme points. This road commences at Petersburg, and 
extends 60 miles a little W. of S. to Weldon, in N. Carolina, and the foot 
of the falls of Roanoke river; the line is very direct, and the graduation in 
no place exceeds 30 feet per mile, and the curves have radii of from 2 to 4 
miles. Great part of the profit arising from this road is derived from the 
transportation of persons. The Avork was began on the line in 1831, and 
completed June, 1833, aggr<?gate cost S450,000. Before the construction 
of this road Norfolk bad always been regarded as the proper depot and out- 
let for the trade of the Roanoke valley, and would no doubt have become 
possessed of it by improvements connected with her Dismal Swamp Canal ; 
but this road having arrested most of the trade and carried it to Petersburg, 
the country about Norfolk procured at the session of 1833-4 the passage 
of an act authorizing the Portsmouth ami Roanoke Railroad, which is "to 
terminate at the same point on the Roanoke Avith the Petersburg road, and 
Avhich is now under contract. The construction of the Portsmouth road 
will probably carry the trade to the seaboard, to avoid the tedious navigation 



OF VIRGINIA. 



95 



of ihc James river, after it reaches Petersburg, — unless there should be a 
road made from Richmond to Petersburg, (whicli is spoken oQ by which 
the trade coming by this route would have the advantage of the market of 
both cities. We can scarcely believe that there will be trade enouo-h to 
employ profitably, both roads, as some suppose, but the travelling alone will 
always enable the Petersburg road to pay something to its owners. 

The Winchester Railroad, connecting the flourishing town of Winches- 
ter, with the Baltimore and Ohio railroad at Harper's Ferry, is rapidly pro- 
gressing, and nearly completed. 

The Richmond and Frederiekshurg Railroad company have the law, and 
Avill probably soon have the funds necessary for its completion, as the trade 
would be considerable, and the travelling immense. 

The following list exhibits a number of projected improvements, for which 
the state has granted charters, and authorised a subscription of two-fifths, 
on the part of the literary fund, as soon as the individual sub.scription should 
make up the other three-fifths; some of these improvements are now going 
on actively, but in the most of them the stock has not as yet we believe been 
taken: 



Name of Companies. 
Thoro\iii;hlare gap turnpike company. 
Lexiiiicton and Mountain canal turnpike co. 
Winchester and Potomac railroad co. 
Huntersvillc and Warm spring turnpike co. 
Thornton's gap and Warrenton turnpike co. 
Danville and Evansham turnpike co. 
Staunton and Jennings's gap turnpike co. 
Fincastle and Blue Ridge turnpike co. 
Smithfield, Charlestown and Harper's lerry 

turnpike company, (additional sub.) 
Staunton& James river turnpike co. do. 
Rivanna and Fredericksburg turnpike co. 
Millborough and Carr's creek turnpike co. 



Dale of 


Act. 


Capital. 


Two-fifth 


13ih Feb. 


183:j, 


31000 


12400 


l-2th " 


" 


10000 


4000 


3Lst Jan, 


If 


300000 


120000 


20th Mar. 


1832, 


IGOOO 


G400 


Lst " 


1833, 


30000 


12000 


28th Feb. 


" 


50000 


20000 


7th Mar 


It 


6000 


2400 


2Gth Feb, 


u 


8000 


3200 


25th " 


CI 


10000 


4000 


7th " 


II 


50000 


20000 


28th Jan. 


" 


30000 


12000 


22d Dec. 


1832, 


5000 


2000 



t54G00O $218400 



Since this article Avas sent to press we have received the following table, 
shewing the state of the Internal Improvement Fund at a much later date: 

State of the Fund for Internal Improvement, oOth September, 1834. 

Productive. Unproductive. Totals. 

Permanent funds, (as per statement B,): 
Bank stocks and loans, and James river 



company's stock, - - . 
Internal improvement companies, 

Disposable funds, (as per statement C,): 
Bank stocks and loans, 
Internal improvement companies, 



Total investments, . - - 

Cash in the treasury; 

Belonging to the permanent funds, S'30,- 
4'.)G 30, and to the disposable funds, 
S15.243 53, 



1,345,900 00 > , ..„,.,, ,, 

2;),150 00 298,G11 11 \ ^^'"\^^^ 1* 



185,373 03 .50.000 00 
230,575 00 5!):{,G53 40 



1,890,098 03 1)42,2G4 51 



1,159.601 43 



2,833/262 54 



Total amount of the fund fur internal improvement, 



- 45,739 83 
^2,879,002 37 



96 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

The receipts into the treasury from 1st Octo- 
ber, 1833, to 30th September, 1834, in- 
cluding the bahince on hand the iirst 
mentioned date (ii;25,077 59) amounted lo - - 338,190 64 

The disbursements during the same period 

were, 292,450 81 



Leaving in the treasury, as above stated, $45,739 83 

The probable receipts during the year end- 
ing 30th September, 1835, including the 
present balance on hand, Avill amount to - - 288,227 83 

The probable charges and appropriations, 

under present engagements, will be, . . - 353,600 27 

Leaving a probable deficiency of - - - S65,372 44 



250 
7947 
3381 

500 

231 
82 

125 



Permanent Funds, 30th September, 1834. 

125i shares in the Little river turnpike company, at par, 12,550 00 

James river turnpike CO. " 50,000 00 

Bank of Virginia, " 794,700 00 

Farmers' Bank of Virginia, " 338,100 00 

Bank of the Valley, " 90,000 00 

North-western bank of Virginia, « 23,100 00 

Swift run gap turnpike co. " 4,100 00 

Upper Appomattox co. " 12,500 00 

Certificates of James river co. 6 per cent, loans, 50,000 00 

Amount producing revenue, 1,375,050 00 

70 shares in the Dismal swamp canal company, at par, 17,500 00 
70 " Chesapeake and Ohio canal company, 

(formerly stock of Potomac CO.) - 31,111 11 
2500* " Ches'apeake an I Ohio canal company, 

(state subscription of 1833,) - - 250,000 00 

Amount unproductive, 298,611 11 

Total amount, *il;l,673,661 11 



* Note. — Amount reported last year, 1,423,661 11 

Add the state's subscription to the Chesapeake and Ohio 
canal company , " transferred to, and vested in" the fmid 
for internal improvement, by the act of March 8th, 
1834, 2,500 shares, or 250,000 00 



$1,673,661 11 



OF VIRGINIA. 



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OF VIRGINIA 99 

MANUFACTURES. 

Few countries possess greater advantages than Virginia, for success in 
manufacturing; she has hibour sufllciently cheap and abundant, inexhaus- 
tible supplies of fuel, and almost unlimited water-power. But planting 
and farming continue the fivourite pursuits; her citizens seeming unwilling 
to invest their capital in enterprizes new and hazardous, and for which 
they liave not been rendered competent by their habits and education. 
There are however extremely valuable flour mills, and some nail, cotton 
and other manufactories at Richmond, of which a more detailed account 
will be given when we speak of that city. In speaking of Wheeling in 
the N. W. part of the state, we shall give an account of her manufactories 
of coUon and woollen cloths, glass, iron, nails, porter, &.c. which are nume- 
rous and valuable. The salt works on the Kanawha produce annually 
about 12,00,000 bushels of salt, and the amount is only limited by the de- 
mand; those on Holston produce from 150,000 to 200,000; and there are 
others on a smaller scale which will be noticed in their proper places. 

AGRICULTURE. 

There is great diversity in the agriculture of the state, but it is for the 
Tttost part badly conducted. The old practice of cuUivating land every 
year until exhausted, and then leaving it to recover from its own resources, 
still continues in many places. In others the three shift S3'Stem prevails ; — 
that is first a crop of Indian corn, second, wheat, rye or oats, and third — the 
year of rest as it is erroneously called, but in which in fact the stock are 
permitted to glean a scanty subsistence from the spontaneous vegetation; — 
after which it is again subjected to the scourging process of cultivation, 
while little attention is paid to the application of manures or the artificial 
grasses. This destructive system for the most part prevails from the sea 
board to the head of tide-water, and on the south side of James River to the 
Blue Ridge. On the north side of that river, especially towards the Poto- 
mac, cultivation is much better ; a regular system of rotation in crops is at- 
tended to; grass seeds, generally red clover, (trifolium pratense) are sown 
on the small grain; animal and vegetable manures are saved with care and 
judiciously applied, gypsum is used to great extent and with very powerful 
effect. In the valley district, also a good system of cultivation is pursued ; 
and irrigated meadows are common, and very productive. On both sides of 
the Blue Ridge, maize or Indian corn, wheat, rye, oats, and buck wheat 
are the principal grain crops. Tobacco is the principal staple of most of 
eastern Virginia, but in the Valley is cuUivated only in its southern por- 
tion, — and not at all beyond the Alleghany. The grasses common to both 
regions are the red clover (trifolium pratense,) orchard grass (dactylis glo- 
merata) timothy (phleum pratensa,) and herds grass, (alopecurus praten- 
sis,) the two former arc cultivated on dry, the laUer on moist soils. In the 
eastern and southern counties, cotton is planted to considerable extent. On 
the shores of the Chesapeake barley and the castor oil bean (ricinus com' 
munis) arc cultivated; and on some "of the best lands above tide- water hemp 
is raised to advantage. 

The Trans- Alleghany country, being exceedingly mountainous, and re- 
mote from market is chiefly devoted to raising live-stock. No more grain 
is raised than is sufficient to supply the country itself, and the travellers 
and stock-drovers who pass through it; but in summer the visitors of the 



lOO GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

mineral waters, afford a very considerable market, consuming an immense 
quantity of provisions. The climate and soil are very favourable to grass, 
and afford excellent pastures. The greensward and white clover, (trilbliuni 
ripens) spring up spontaneously wherever the timber is removed or deaden- 
ed, and on rich ground are very luxuriant. The cattle are fattened gene- 
rally on fine pastures of clover and timothy mixed. 

It is difficult to speak with precision of the profits of agriculture in Vir- 
ginia, in many instances it yields a bare subsistence to the cultivator, in 
others a neat income of two or three per cent ; but where the lands are in 
good heart, careful and judicious husbandry practised, and wheat and to- 
bacco the principal crops, there is no doubt that Avith slave labour a profit 
of from 6 to 8 per cent may be annually realized from capital invested; to 
accomplish this however, great attention and activity are necessary on the 
part of the proprietor. Lands in the Valley, in consequence of there being 
fewer slaves, are more equally divided among the whites; the young popu- 
lation settle more at home, instead of moving to the west — and the lands are 
generally better cultivated: these circumstances cause land to sell generalFy 
higher in that section, and the country to be more prosperous, althougli 
running streams are less frequent and communication with market more 
difficult and expensive. 

In 1831 according to official returns 4459 hogshead of tobacco were de- 
livered from the several warehouses in the state for exportation or manufac- 
ture, and during the year ending in June 18S2, upwards of 544,000 barrels 
of flour passed the various inspections. The quantity of flour inspected 
however constitutes but a very uncertain index of the amount produced. 
Virginia flour, especially the Richmond brands, stand very high in foreiga 
markets, and in South America particularly, bear a price far above all other 
flour. Most of the vegetable productions found in the southern and middle 
states are common also to Virginia. West of the Alleghany the sugar 
maple grows in abundance. There are some excellent native grapes, the 
culture of which it is presumed will claim greater attention, since the win- 
ters have been found too severe for the foreign vine. The subject of ju- 
dicious and scientific agriculture is receiving more attention every day. 
The good work is promoted by agricultural societies, and Mr. Edmund Ruf- 
fin's valuable production, the Farmer's Register, decidedly the best work 
upon the subject, published in America. 

COMMERCE. 

The value of imports into the state of Virginia, between October 1st 1830, 
and September 30th 1831, was $488,522, and the domestic produce exported 
amounted to $4,149,980, — foreign produce exported $489, — total exports 
$4,150,475. This immense difference between the imports and exports is 
made up by imports from sister states, the precise amount of which it is im- 
possible to ascertain, but there is always a balance against us to the credit 
of our northern friends. 

At the same time the amount of tonnage employed was as follows : — 
American entered, 2,2933, foreign entered, 9,983 — total entered, 32,916. 
departed, 48,719, " departed. 1 1,879— total departed, 60,598. 



OF VIRGINIA, 101 



FISCAL CONCERNS. 

We s;\ve bolow from the last Treasurer's Report, the state of the Finances 
of the Connnonweahh on the termination of the last Fiscal Year. 

Amount of Receipts and Disbursements on account of the Commoniccalth, 
in the Fiscal Year, ending tcith the 30th Scpte?n/)( r, 1834. — Also the 
-.balances to the credit of the Commonwealth at the commencement of the 
year. 

RECEIPTS. 

To balance on hand 1st day of October, 1833, as per last annual 

report, - - - . - - - $185221 G9 
To amounts received in fiscal year, ending with 30lh Septem- 
ber, 1834, on the following accounts, viz; 

Arrears of taxes, - - - 2229 07 

Clerks of county and corporation courts, 6777 80 

Clerks of superior courts, - - 7248 90 

Clerks of appeals, ... 199 50 

Inspectors of tobacco, ... 4573 32 

Miscellaneous receipts, ... 7542 68 

Militia fines, ... - 8867 59 

Notarial seals, .... 3086 69 

Pri\j seals, - - - - 53 20 

Penitentiary agent, - - - 7000 00 

Register of the land office, - - 5111 15 

Revenue taxes of 1833, - - - 318272 74 

Revenue taxes of 1834, - - - 23630 64 

Redemption of land, - - - 5496 94 

Unappropriated land, - - - 2135 19 

Washington monument fund, - - 1109 42 



To amount received in fiscal year, ending the 30th Sept. 1834, 403334 83 

$588556 52 

Receipts in each quarter,— 1st, $324897 88; 2d, 25937 43; 3d, 35079 39; 
4th, 17420 13. 



102 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

DISBURSEMENTS. 

By amounts disbursed in fiscal year, ending with SOth September, 1834, 
on the following accounts, viz : 
Arsenals, . . - - 

Criminal charges, ... 

Contingent I'und, , - - ■ 

Contingent expenses courts. 
Civil prosecutions, 
Cavalry equipments. 
Expenses representation, 
General appropriation, ... 
General account revenue, 
General Assembly, 
Guards in the country, 
Interest on public debt, 

Interest on Chesapeake and Ohio canal stock, 
Jerman Baker, 
Lunatic hospitals. 

Militia fines, . . - _ 

Military contingent, . . . 

Manufactory of arms, ... 
Officers of government. 
Officers of militia, 

Officers of penitentiary, - - - 

Penitentiary criminal charges. 
Penitentiary house expenses. 
Penitentiary building, ... 
Pensioners, .... 

Public guard, . .' _ _ 

Public warehouses, . - . 

Public roads, . . . - 

Revolutionary half pay claims. 
Repairs of governor's house. 
Repairs of the armony, 
Sinking fund, .... 

Slaves executed, . . . - 

Slaves transported, 
Washington monument fund, 
Warrants on account, ... 

By amount disbursed in fiscal year, ending SOtli Sept., 1834, 
By balance on hand 1st October, 1834, 



Balances" at the end of each quarter, 1st, $394876 48; 2nd, $252352 75; 
3d, $177568 17; 4th, $116219 32. 



5951 


70 


32240 


20 


13828 


60 


22625 


38 


47 


15 


1084 


43 


599 


75 


24417 


91 


28031 


00 


90140 


88 


1821 


99 


2372 


35 


12588 


91 


1 


80 


34500 


00 


10641 


67 


1668 


76 


1280 


00 


78815 


24 


3707 


40 


7826 


32 


4754 


27 


3010 


96 


8319 


43 


2308 


42 


19224 


92 


2842 


72 


2000 


00 


12167 


00 


937 


06 


1515 


01 


132 


90 


3222 


00 


11190 


00 


1000 


00 


4121 


07 


Sept., 1834, 472337 20 


- 


116219 32 




$588556 52 



OF VIRGINIA. 



103 



REVENUE. 

The following' tabic taken from the last Audilnis Report, exhibits the 
amount of Taxes arising on Lots, Lands, S/ares, Horses, Carriages, 
and on Licenses to Merchants, Pedlars, Keepersof Ordinaries and Houses 
of Entertainment, and Exhibitors- of Shoivs, tSfc. for 1834: 



Counties. 


Totals. \ 


Isle of Wight, - 


■ $1876 54 


Accomack, 


- $3170 


68 


Jackson, 


227 22 


Albemarle, 


G908 


33 


James City, 


670 28 


Alleghany, 


488 


24 


Jefferson, 


4848 08 


Amelia, 


2889 


24 


Kanawha, - 


1585 13 


Amherst, 


3116 


85 


King George, 


1760 75 


Augusta, 


6717 


19 


King William, - 


2563 03 


Bath, 


848 


07 


King and Q.uccn, - 


2296 31 


Bedford, - 


4613 


09 


T-.ancastor, - 


989 70 


Berkeley, - 


3267 


48 


Lee, 


650 61 


Botetourt, - 


3760 


37 


Lewis, 


689 91 


Brooke, 


1287 


74 


Logan, 


176 84 


Brunswick, - 


3751 


56 


Loudoun, 


8817 32 


Buckingham, 


5132 


87 


Louisa, 


3840 38 


Cabell, 


635 


66 


Lunenburg, 


24.52 17 


Campbell, - 


6697 


10 


Madison, 


2211 51 


Caroline, - 


4533 


33 


Mason, 


799 17 


Charles City, 


1413 


74 


Matthews, - 


950 07 


Charlotte, - 


4361 


41 


Mecklenburg, 


5104 9G 


Chesterfield, 


5252 


08 


Middlesex, - 


806 90 


Culpeper, - 


3330 


94 


Monongalia, 


1392 52 


Cumberland, 


2985 


88 


Monroe, 


1203 65 


Dinwiddie, 


7042 


78 


Montgomery, 


1289 69 


Elizabeth City, - 


866 


58 


Morgan, 


536 84 


Essex, 


2423 


37 


Nanscmond, 


2064 18 


Fairfax, 


2996 


18 


Nelson, 


2787 08 


Fauquier, - 


7344 


28 


New Kent, - 


1257 88 


Fayette, 


215 


94 


Nicholas, 


303 3G 


Floyd, 


326 


31 


Norfolk County, - 


3728 33 


Fluvanna, - 


2132 


60 


Norfolk Borough, 


5723 80 


Franklin, - 


2194 


36 


Northampton, 


1982 74 


Frederick, - 


9119 


67 


Northumberland, 


1242 08 


Giles, 


553 


23 


Nottoway, - 


2580 87 


Gloucester, - 


2172 


50 


Ohio, 


2819 2.5 


Goochland, - 


3407 


87 


Orange, 


3852 50 


Grayson, 


468 


97 


Page, 


1341 42 


Greenbrier,. 


1671 


97 


Patrick, 


849 31 


Greensville, 


1983 


27 


Pendleton, - 


1090 98 


Halifax, 


6178 


43 


Pittsylvania, 


5265 82 


Hampshire, 


2411 


92 


Pocahontas, 


373 29 


Hanover, - 


4689 


40 


Powhatan, - 


2792 87 


Hardy, 


2609 


49 


Preston, 


492 27 


Harrison, - 


1708 


27 


Princess Anne, - 


1907 50 


Henrico, 


14106 


68 


Prince Edward, - 


3814 89 


Henry, 


1201 


96 


Prince George, - 


1941 49 



104 



GENERAL DESCRIPTION 



Prince William, 

Randolph, - 

Rappahannock, 

Richmond, - 

Rockbridge, 

Rockingham, 

Russell, 

Scott, 

Shenandoah, 

Southampton, 

Spottsylvania, 

Stafford, 



52668 

639 

1 898 

1177 

3195 

4928 

669 

524 

3534 

3096 

4103 

2025 



Surry, 

Sussex, 

Smyth, 

Tazewell, - 

Tyler, {no re turns,) 

•Warwick, - 

Washington, 

Westmoreland, 

Williamsburg, 

Wood, 

Wythe, 

York-, 



$1257 49 

2711 55 

989 04 

727 55 

350 74 
2286 10 
1560 26 

382 16 
1190 11 
1901 42 

823 45 



Total amount of taxes included in above table, 
Tax on licenses to merchants, brokers, jewellers 
and auctioneers, _ - . . 

Ditto to pedlars, . - . - 

Ditto to ordinary keepers. 

Ditto to houses of private entei'tairnnent. 

Ditto to venders of lottery tickets, - 

Ditto to shows, - - . . 



Deduct as the estimated amount of insolvents, overcharges, 
unascertained lands, and lands purchased for the com- 
monwealth, ... . . - . . 



Deduct sheriffs' commissions of 5 per cent. 19493 20 

Ditto ditto of 2^ per cent, for 

prompt payment, - - . . G871 09 



le, 




$291580 


67 


68346 


66 






6455 


42 






16636 


41 






3305 


20 






4129 


69 






2310 


00 










101283 


88 







392864 05 



3000 00 



Add estimated nctt amount from the county of Tyler, 



389864 05 



26364 29 

363499 76 
580 00 



$364079 76 



BANKS. 

State of the B'nik of the Valley, iyiduding its Officers of Bisconnt and 
Deposite, on the 2d day of December, 1833. 



Specie, 
Notes of other banks, 
Due from other banks 
Bills and notes dis- > 
counted, ^ 

Bond account, 
Real estate, 



$133,257 33 
127,398 94 
222,823 50 

1,229,333 



/.) 



1,036 88 
80,445 91 



$1,794,196 31 



Capital stock. 
Notes in circulation, 
Due to other banks, 
Discount, 
Contingent fund, 
Deposite money, 



690,000 00 

875.185 00 

12,068 27 

31,461 52 

34,738 17 

150,743 35 

$1,794,196 31 



<OF VIIRGINIA . 105 

^tate of the North-western Bank of Virginia, at Wheeling, November 

28(h, 1833. 

Capital stock Branch at Wellsburg, - ~ - $50,000 00 

Bills discounted, <• '. •n'c'rr ro? " 366,306 74 

' ( in suit 19,575 G2 ^ - - ' 

Real Estate, ..... 2,820 00 

Due by Commonwealth of Virginia, - - - 770 00 

Due by other banks, - - - - - 18,782 06 

Due by expense account, - - ^ . . 539 25 

Specie on hand, . . . ^ - 36,674 00 

Office notes, - - - - - - 1,530 00 

Notes of other banks, - - - - .89,268 00 

Bank notes stok^n, .... 68,456 00 

Bank notes recovered, - - - 35,882 00 



32,574 00 
^Specie stolen, ----- 840 00 33,414 00 



,104 05 

Capital stock, . , . . , 624,500 00 

Sills in circulation, - ... - 179,450 00 

Profit and loss, . . , - . 9,040 14 

Discount received and premiums, ... 8,886 65 

Due to Union Bank of Maryland, loan, - - 20,000 00 

Due to S. Jacob, cashier at Well^burg, - - 377 14 

Due to other banks, ..... 50,900 39 

Deposites, .--.-- 66,949 73 

600,104 05 

Sta;te of the North-iccstcrn Bank of Virginia, Wellsburg Branch, No- 
vember dmh, 1833. 

Bills discounted, (no bad or douWul debts) - - - 94,23129 

Due by other banks, - 12,539 84 

Due by John List, Cashier, ..-...-- 287 72 

Due by expense account, . . - . . - 220 68 

Specie on hand. .....--- 19,877 52 

Notes of other banks, ....... - 30,628 00 



$157,785 05 



Capital stock, ..-.-.-- 50,000 00 

Bills in circulation, 86,920 00 

Profit and loss, ........ 1,372 38 

Discounts received and premiums, .... 2,183 33 

Due to other banks, 5,429 23 

Due to depositors, 11,880 11 



$157,785 07 



14 



106 



GENERAL DESCRIPTION 



Detailed slatcmcnt of the Bank of Virginia, and its several Branche?, 

January \st, 1834. 



*Debt oatstanding 
Richmond, 
Norfolk, 
Petersburg, 
Fredericksburg, - 
Lynchburg, 
Danville, 
Charleston, 



Specie : 
Richmond 
Norfolk, 
Petersburg, 
Fredericksburg, 
Lynchburg, 
Danville, 
Charleston, 



2,408,175 44 

726,273 81 
1,037,956 94 

648,335 12 

681,046 79' Richmond, 

340,529 22; Norfolk, 



Stock of James River : 
Company 6 per 
cent stock, 

Real estate : 



100,000 00 



268,085 i: 



$6,200,402 45 



179,076 
16,943 

86,750 
45,363 
16,366 
55,561 
35,863 



Petersburg, 

Fredericksburg, 

Lynchburg, 



114,465 80 

64,783 63 

78,658 52 

29,155 44 

25,843 77 

312,907 25 



$435,925 8 



Notes of other banks : 

Richmond, - 24,155 00 

Norfolk, - 33,745 00 

Petersburg, - 3,615 00 

Fredericksburg, - 34,541 15 

Lynchburg, - 13,323 39 

Danville, - 10,745 00 

Charleston, - 10,630 00 



Charleston, 

Balances due from otlie 

banks, 
Fredericksburg, 



$130,754 54 
19,336 46 



1 



90,029 06 



$109,365 

Foreign bills of exchange : 

Richmond, - 145,766 

Petersburg, - 29,716 

Fredericksburg, - 1,587 



Total, $7,466,425 68 

Capital slock : - 2,740,000 00 
Notes in circulation: 

821,000 00 

186,140 00 

585^065 00 

375,36a 00 

435,240 00 

310,065 00 

256,890 00 



40i Richmond, 
Norfolk, 
Petersburg, 
Fredericksburg, 
Lynchburg, 
Danville, 
Charleston,. 



$2,969,760 00 
Balance due to other banks : 



Richmond, 

Norfolk, 

Petersburg, 

Lynchburg, 

Danville, 



106,308 78 

15,774 24 

87,774 87 

3,686 38 

900 14 



$214,444 41 
Balance the treasurer U. States: 
Richmond - 15,759^ 94 

Norfolk, - 9,000 00 

Petersbur<r, - 25,669 26 

Fredericksburg, - - 20 92 

Lynchburg, - - 83 21 



$177,070 09 



$50,553 39 



* In tliis item is included domestic or inland bills of exchange, 

at Richmond, - - 698,270 CI 

at Petersburg, .-...--- 383,556 34 



SI, 08 1,826 95 
The amount at other bank? doe-; not appear as the returns do not distinguish. 





OF VIRGINIA. 


107 


Doposite money : 




Danville, 


27,129 22 


Richmond, 


999,070 


42 


Charleston, 


9,174 60 


Norfolk, 
Petersburg-, 


151,356 
95,016 


96 
33 








$1,491,687 88 


Fredericksburg', 


153,492 


57 








Lynchburg, 


56,447 


78 


Total, 


7,466,425 68 




Capital Stock. 


Nell profits for the year. 


Rale of per cent 


At Richmond, 


1,000,000 


171,715 49* 


17 17 15 100 


" Norfolk, 


440,000 


16,728 81 


3 80 


" Petersburg, 


450,000 


42,750 29 


9 50 


" Fredericksbui 


g, 300,000 


28,640 00 


9 54f 


*' Lynchburg, 


300,000 


32,047 87 


10 68^ 


•' Danville, 


150,000 


15,687 17 


10 46 


♦' Charleston, 


100,000 


i, 


11,349 92 


11 35 




$2,740,000 


$18,919 55 making 


an ag'ate of 1 1 64. 



State of the Farmers' Bank of Virginia, and its several Branches, Is/ 

January, 1834. 



Debt outstanding 


• 


Specie : 






Richmond, 


1,572,546 20 


Richmond, 


- 


204,831 20 


Norfolk, 


692,482 78 


Norfolk, 


- 


28,397 61 


Petersburg, 


642,170 54 


Petersburg, 


- 


40,139 70 


Fredericksburg, - 


562,310 61 


Fredericksburg, 


- 


41,779 30 


Lynchburg, 


576,851 93 


Lynchburg, 


- 


36,917 00 


Winchester, 


378,614 26 


Winchester, 


- 


22,486 40 


Danville, 


56,360 00 


Danville, 




717 70 




$4,471,336 32 


$375,268 91 


* Inchuling $35,518 88 profit on bank slock sold — 






Whole amount of bad 


and (loubtful debts reported last year, 


- 


384,400 00 


Whole amount of sur 


plus fund, after payi 


nent of the last dividend, 


323,391 35 



Total of bad and doubtful debts to be provided for, - 61,008 65 

Prom which may be deducted whatever may be colleeted lYom the doubtful debts, 
and any gain by the destruction of notes in circulation, which may be fairly consi- 
dered as equal to the balance of bad and doubtful debts. 

Debts contracted and unpaid between the 1st January, 1833, and 1st January, 1834, 

Richmond ....---- 875,312 04 

NorfX' - 5?3,973 0O 

Petersburg 413,-27-2 68 

Fredericksburg, - - - J?-'?«n S 

Tvnrhhiiior . . - - - - - - 47/, 680 00 

Danville • 336,-25I 00 

ChTkston, .- - - "^.^^Q ^^ 



Makinj 
All of which is good. 



a total of 



$2,6-29,08-2 62 



108 



GENERAL DESCRIPTION 



Foreign Notes: 
Richmond 
Norfolk, 
Petersburg,, 
Fredericksburg, - 
Lynchburg, 
Winchester, 
Danville^ 



Bank stock: 
Richmond, 
Fredericksburg, 



Real Estate : 
Richmond, 
Norfolk, 
Petersburg, 
Fredericksburg, 
Lynchburg, 
Winchester, 



50,636 16 

37,204 52 

4,663 66 

4,365 00 

9,205 00 

22,2.39 97 

615 00 



$128,929 31 

23,715 50 
10,876 00 



$34,591 50 

91,918 09 
38,488 67 
35,791 48 
17,421 65 
22,993 58 
24,490 18 



$231,043 65 



$5,241,169 69 
Stock: -. 2,000,000 00 

Notes in circulation : 
Richmond, - 552,688 00 

Norfolk, - 155,600 00 

Petersburg, - 376,635. 00. 



Fredericksburg, 

Lynchburg, 

Winehester, 



257,825 00 

397,640 00 

147,720 00 

$1.,88Z,608 00 



Due to other banks : 

Richmond, 126,958 76 

Norfolk, 29,455 94 

66,998 96 Petersburg, 

Fred'ksburg, 33,387 80 
5,11)6 05 Lynchburg, 

Winchester, 11,625 31 
1,124 65 Danville, 



73,239 66> 



Deposits money ;- 
Richmond, 
Norfolk, 
Petersburg,. 
Fredericksburg, - 
Lynchburtg, 
Winchester, 
Danville,, 



201,427 8t 
73,239 66, 

1.28,188 15. 

81ik,080 29> 
91,161 43; 

137,383 33 

75,746 22 

94704 47 

18,036 14' 

261 66 

1,225,373 54 



Total $5,241,169 6Q, 



Statement of bad and dbubiful debts due the Farmers' Bank of Virginia, 
on the Ut January, 1:834; and also the contingent fund: 

Bad debt last year, - - - ^ . 

Doubtful, -.--... 



Contingent fund, 
Profit in stock. 

Deficiency, 

Bad debt as above. 
Extinguished during the year, 

Doubtful as above. 



105,0r5 14 
53,038 50-- 



178,833 45 

155,231 26. 

$334,064 71 

— 158,053 64 



176,011 07 

178,833 45 
46,507 53 

132,325 93 
155,231 26 



OF VIRGINIA. 



f09 



Contingent faad, including January, 1834, 
Pnofit on 502 shares of stock, valued at par, 

Total bad and doubtful debt provided for, 



159,488 39 
15,608 50- 



287,550 18 
— 175,090 89 
$112,400 30 



Prom which should be deducted wliatevcr may be received, from debts 
reported doubtful, and any gain by loss of notes in circulation. 

Amount of debts contracted at the Farmers' Bank of Virginia and its 

Branches, during the year 1833, and which remained unpaid on 1st Janu- 
ary, 1834. 

Bank at Richmond, . . . - . 905,387 13 

Fredericksburg, . _ _ . 490,180 23 

Petersburg, - - - . . 357,122 20 

Norfolk, - - - - - 170,103 62 

" Winchester, - ... - 90,047 00 



$2,090,900 24 



Sla;te of the Farmers'' Bank of Virginia, including the branches Ist 

January, 1834. 



Debts outstanding, 
Specie, 

Foreign Notes, - 
Bank Stock, 
Real Estate, 



4,471.330 32 

375,208 91 

128,929 31 

34,591 50 

231,043 65 



$5,241,109 09 



Profits of Richmond, 13 58 per cent. 

Norfolk, 3 L8 

Petersburg, 1 1 08 

Fredericksburg, 12 41 

Winchester, 71 

Danville, 3 97 

Aggregate profits, 1 07 
Contingent fund, 159,488 39 



Stock, 

Notes in circulation, 
Due to other banks, 
Deposite money, 



2,000,000 00. 

1,817,008 00« 

128,188 15. 

1,225,373 54 

$5,241,109 09i 



In this estimate, the profits on bank 
stock purchased some years ago, and! 
sold in 1833, are not included, not 
belonging to the usual business esti- 
mated — but being actually received, 
add that to the current profits, and the- 
profits of Richmond, are 21 OOpr. ct. 
Norfolk, 4 10 " 



REMARKS. 

Arrangement -pursued in the descrqilion of counties. 

We have now completed our " General Description of Virginia ;" having 
presented in the first part a view of Natural Virginia, comprehending her 
Situation, Boundaries, Extent, Face of the Country, Mineralogy and C4eol- 
ogy, Scenery and Natural Curiosities, Mountains, Bays, Harbours, Rivers, 
&c. and in the second, her Moral and Political Condition: — under which 
head we included, Population, Religion, Government and Laws, Arms 
and Military Organization, Provisions for the Insane, Penitentiary, Inter- 
nal Improvement, Manufactures, Agriculture, Commerce, and Fiscal Con- 
cerns. We now proceed to give a more detailed account of the same sub- 
jects, taking the State, County, by County, in alphabetical order, and giving 
the origin of the county, an accurate and generally minute account of its 
topography, and a detail of the number, occupation, &c. of its Citizens, 
and of each Town and Village. In order to present a more condensed and 
connected view, than would have been possible by taking the counties of the 
whole State at once into consideration, in the confused order which an al- 
phabetical arrangement would present ; and as that arrangement was abso- 
lutely necessary for covenience of reference, we have divided the State into 
Eastern and Western Virginia, at the Blue Ridge, and made an alphabeti- 
cal arrangement of the counties of each portion separately. The Toic?is, 
Villages, Post OJices, (^-c. are arranged in Alphabetical order in the coun- 
ties to which they respectively belong; the County Town, and other places 
of more than usual importance, being distinguished by a larger type. An 
Alphabetical Index of all the places mentioned, and general subjects treated 
of, is at the end of the volume. 

Under the head of Eastern Virginia, we will consider all of the 
counties east of the Blue Ridge. 



EASTERN ^ IRCIMA. 



AC COM AC. 



Tins county was created by act of Assembly in 1G72, and fovmod out 
of part of Northampton Co. It is the northernmost of the two counties 
which compose the "Eastern Shore of Virginia," and extends from the 
Atlantic to the Chesapeake. It is bounded E. by the Atlantic, S. by 
Northampton Co. W. by Chesapeake bav, N. W. by Pocomoke bay, and 
N. by Worcester Co. Md. It extends from »7° 28' to 38° 2' N. lat. 
and from 1° 24' tol° 46' E. long, from Washington. Its greatest length 
is from S. S. W. to N. N. E. 48 m's.its mean width about 10 m's., its area 
480 sq. miles. Much of its surface is composed of sand-banks and islands 
upon the coast, its real arable superficies is only about 400 sq. miles, much 
of which is fertile, and the surface level. It produces well, wheat, corn, 
cotton, oats, &cc. and peas, beans, potatoes, and other table A^egetables in 
great abundance. Population in 1820, 15,9GG, in 1830, 19,656, of the latter 
4,495 were white males, 4,969 white females, and the rest people of colour. 
This county belongs to the third judicial circuit and second district: — Taxes 
in 1832-3, $3,081 22; in 1833-4, on lots $52 34— land, $1,858 87 ;— on 
2385 slaves, $594 25,-2522 horses, $151 32—9 studs, $131 00—16 
coaches, $33—31 carryalls, $36 70—461 gigs, $3 11 20— total $3170 68. 
Amount expended in educating poor children, in 1832, $592 22 — in 183^, 
$692 92. 

TOWNS, VILLA C4ES, POST-OFFICES, &c, 

ACCOMAC C. H. or I)nnnmon.ds-\'n\ March, Jimc, August and Norem- 
Tow)i, is situated 214 m's. E. of R. \ber. Judge Upshur holds his Cir- 
and 206 S. E. of W. in lat. 47°. 54, cuit Superior Court of Law and Chan- 
Besides a brick Court House and eery on 12/A rv/ iVf(7_?/, and t5//t ^>/ Oc- 
Jail, the town contains a Methodist Uo/'e/'. 

house of worship, and 39 dwelling Bell Haven, P. O. 226 m's. S. E. 
houses. There is one common school |of W. and 194 from R. situated in the 
in the place, and 4 attorneys, 2 phy-|S. E. part of the county, 20 m's. from 
sicians, 3 mercantile stores, 1 tQ.m-\e-\DnimmoncVs Town, and 194 S. S. E. 
ry, 2 saddle and harness makers, 3 of Annapolis. 

tailors, 3 cabinet makers, 1 watch and j IIorntown, P. V. 180 m's. S. E. 
clock maker, 1 carriage maker, 2 of W. and 240 from R. situated on a 
boot and shoe factories; and 3 grist .navigable stream, by Avhich vessels 
mills in the vicinity. Population 240. drawing from 6 to 8 feet water, as- 
C'Tiiiiit/ Cawrts, are held on the /as/ 'ccnd within a mile of the town, and on 
.1/o«'/«v/ of every mouth: — Quarter! //, the post road leading from Drum- 



112 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— ALBEMARLE. 



motUs Toion to Snow Hill, 26 m's. ' 
N. N. E, from the former and 16 N. 
W. of the latter. It contains 15 
dwelling houses, 1 Methodist house 
-of worship, 1 common school, 2 
taA'crns, and 4 mercantile stores, 1 
house carpenter, 1 hatter, 1 w'heel- 
Avright, 1 tanyard, 2 shoe and boot 
manufactories, and 1 milliner and 
mantuamaker.. Population 150. 

Modest Town, P. V. 192 m's. 
from W. and 248 from R. situated 10 
■miles east of Drummondstown, 2 
from navigable tide-water, and 3 from 
'the Atlantic Ocean. It contains 6 
dwelling houses, 1 Bapti-st, and 1 Me- 
thodist house of worship, 1 Sabbath 
•school, 2 mercantile stores, 1 tanyard, 
'1 boot and shoemaker, 1 smith shop. 
Population 43 persons ; of whom 1 is 
n physician. This place abounds 
with fish, oysters and clams. The 
sod in the neighbourhood is fertile, and 
|produce.s well corn, wheat, rye, oats. 



peas, beans, potatoes and other vcgeJta- 
bles in great variety. 

Onancock Creek^ p. -O. 210 m's. 
S. E. of W. and 209 from R. situated 
on the Chesapeake shore, 8 m's. S. W. 
by W. of D ruinmondslown. 

PuNGOTEAGUE, P. O. 218 m's frOTH 
W. and 202 from R. situated 1^ miles 
from the head of Pungdteague creek, 
and 12 m's. from D rummondsiown. 
The country around produces in aljuTi- 
dance, wheat, c&m, oats, cotton, pota- 
toes, &,c. The trade from the creek 
of this name employs five Tegular 
coasting vessels. The population off 
the village is 100, it contains 1 physi- 
cian. There are 20 dwelling liouses, 
1 Methodist and 1 Episcopalian house 
of worship, a common school, a ta- 
vern, a grist mill, a mercantile store, 
tanyard, tailor, boot and shoemaker, 
and a smith shop. Warrant tryings 
are held here on the 3d Monday ia 
every month. 



ALBEMARLE, 



This county was created by the Legislature in 1744, from a patt of 
Goochland County. It is bounded N. W. by the Blue Ridge, which sep- 
■arates it from Augusta and Rockingham, N. E. by the southern part of 
C)range, E. by Louisa and Fluvanna, S. by James River which separates it 
•from Buckingham, and S. W. by Nelson. Its length from S. W. to N. 
^E. is 35 miles, its mean width 20, and area 700 sq. m's. The parallel of N. 
slat. 38^ passes very nearly through the centre of the county, which is 
likewise the case with long. 1° 30' W. of Washington. The northern part of 
this courity is drained by the Rivanna and its constituent creeks, Avhich 
'uniting below Charlottesville, pass through the South West Mountain, 
and enter Fluvanna some miles below. The southern portion of the 
>county is drained by the waters of the Hardware, which rises by 2 branches, 
the one in North Garden, and the other in South Garden, which uniting at 
the foot of the S. W. Mountain flow between the portions of it known by 
the local name of Carter's and Green-Mountain, and passes also into Flu- 
vanna, before its junction with James River. 

There is little of the soil of Albemarle absolutely barren, and in the 
mountain valleys, and river or creek bottoms it is exceedingly fertile, whilst 
the undulating hills which intervene are susceptible of almost unlimited 
improvement by judicious cultivation. The scenery in all parts of the county 
is exceedingly beautiful and picturesque; we know of no portion of the 
state which presents such a number and variety of beautiful prospects as 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— ALBEMARLE. 



113 



may be seen from the hills of Albemarle. This county belongs to the 
twelfth judicial circuit and sixth district. Population in 1820, 19,750 — 
in 1830, 2-2,618. Taxes paid in 1S32-3, $G,842 58—1833-4, on lots $335- 
43— lands $4,092 05 ; on G439 slaves, $1,G09 75— 527G horses, $3 IG 5G — 
IG studs, $239 34— 9G coaches, $243 75—43 carryalls, $43 50—47 gigs, 
$29 35 — Amount expended in educating poor children in 1832, $590 74 — 
in 1834, $805 37. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST-OFFICES, «kc. 

Batesville, P. O. and ^Zec^ionjabout 20 general mercantile establish- 
Prccinct, generally called OZzrer'slments. There is 1 Female Acade- 
Old Store, situated on the Scottsvillelmy, in which young ladies are taught 
and Staunton turnpike, 20 m's. from [all the useful branches of education, 
the former^ and 25 from the latter. It -as well as the elegant accomplish- 
has 12 scattering dwelling houses, 3 mcnts, it is Avell conducted and flou- 
general stores, 1 tan yard and 1 rishing, having generally from 30 to 
blacksmith shop. In the vicinity 40 pupils; there is also an elementary 
there is 1 Baptist, and 1 Methodist school for boys; and a school to pre- 
house of worship. The population is pare youths for the University is 



70; of whom 1 is a phj'sician 

Brown's Cove, P. O. 109 m's. N. 
W. of R., and 136 from AV. situated 
in the northern part of the county. 
Brooksville, p. O. situated at the 



about to be established on a perma- 
nent footing by a young gentleman 
said to be entirely competent to its 
proper management: if such be the 
case it will certainly flourish, as such 



junction of the Rivanna and Rockfishja school is much wanted, and the tem- 
turnpike with the Scottsville andporary schools hitherto established 
Staunton turnpike ; 101 m's. N. W of have met with remarkable success. 
R, and 20 S. W. of Charlottesville. The town has a circulating library of 



Carter's Bridge, P. O. situated 
at the passage of Hardware through 
S. W. Mountain, 133 m's. 
Washinnton, and 91 from R. 

CHARLOTTESVILLE, P. T. 
and county scat, 123 m's. S. W. from 
Washington, and 81 N. W. by W. 
from R. It is beautifully situated, 
N. lat. 38° 3', long. 1° 5' W. of 
Washington, a mile east of the Uni 
versity of Virginia, and 3 m's. N. W 



well selected books. 

An Agricultural Society which 
from boasts among its members the princi- 
pal farmers of this and the neighbour- 
ing counties, holds its semi-annual 
meetings here ; at the fall meetmg 
there is an exhibition of live stock, and. 
domestic fabrics, and premiums are 
awarded for the best productions. 
The mechanical occupations are as 
follows: — 1 printing office, issuing a 



from Monticello, in a fertile and welljweekly paper, and frequently engaged 
Avatercd valley, on the right bank ofjin books and pamphlets, 4 tailoring 
the Rivanna river, at the intersection establishments Avhich give employ- 
of the main post roads leading from ment to a number of hands, 3 tan 
Lynchburo-, Staunton, and Lexing-lyards, 3 saddlers, 1 tin plate worker, 
ton, to Washington, Alexandria and|2 cabinet makers, 3 wheelwrights, 1 
Richmond. It contains besides the chair maker, house and sign painter, 
ordinary county buildings, 1 Episco-|2 coach and gig manufectories, 2 
palian, "l Presbyterian, 1 Baptist, and jewellers, 2 boot and shoe factories, 
1 Methodist house of worship, 3 large which employs a number of hands, ^1 
and commodious hotels, 1 tavern, 2 hatter, 2 confectioners, 4 blacksmith s 
bookstores, 2 druggist's stores, and'shops, 1 brick yard, 2 book binders, 
15 



114 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— ALBEMARLfi. 



several house carpenters, bricklayers,; Superior Court of Law and Chancer/ 



&,c. The professional men are 6 at- 
torneys at law, 6 physicians and 3 
surgeon dentists. The whole popu- 
lation by an accurate census recently 
taken expressly for this work is 957; 
viz : white naales 290 — females 260 — 
free blacks 59 — slaves 348. 

The village is provided with a fire 
engine, and company attached; and 
boasts a large and well disciplined 
corps of volunteers. The navigation 
of the Rivanna has recently been 
opened by locks and dams, and boats 
with their lading can now ascend to 



on the \Of/i of Map, and \Oth of Oc- 
tober. 

CovEsvlLLE, P. V. 145 m's. S. W. 
of W., and 103 N. W. by W. of R., 
situated in the western part of the 
county, 22 m's. from Charlottesville, 
on the stage road leading from that 
place to Lynchburg. It contains sev- 
eral dwelling houses, 1 general store, 
1 house of entertainment, 1 tan yard, 
1 milliner and mantua, maker, and 1 
Presbyterian house of warship. Pop- 
ulation 30. 

Dyer's Old Store, P. O. 13S 



Pireus, within a" mile and a quarter m's. S. W. of W. and 96 from R. 
of Charlottesville, Avhich is a depot Everettsville, P. O. 116 m's. 
for the produce of the northern and S W. of W., and 74 from R.; it con- 



middle part of this county, part of Au- 
gusta, and Avill be for Rockingham 
and the counties beyond it, when a 
road which has been located and com- 
menced from Charlottesville to Har- 
risonburg shall have been completed. 
A neat and permanent covered bridge 
has recently been erected at a cost of 
$4,000 over the Rivanna River, on 
the post road leading from Charlottes 
ville to Alexandria, D. C. Several 
lines of daily stages pass through this 
town. Charlottesville is a heahhy 
place, and for the most part compactly 
though irregularly built, the houses 
are generally of brick, of which there 
are about 200, large, handsome, and 
comfortable dwellings. The surface 
on which the town stands is elevated 
from 5 to 700 feet above the tide of 
the ocean, and the vicinity is salubri- 
ous, and the soil fertile, producing in 
abundance, wheat, corn, oats, tobacco, 
&c. In the neighbourhood are seve- 
ral extensive flour manufacturing, 
grist, and saw mills, and 2 carding 
machines. The country around is 
thickly settled, abounding with hand- 
some and valuable farms, well culti- 
vated and rapidly improving. 

County Courts are held on the 1*'/ 
Monday in every month; — Quarterly, 
March, June, August, and Novemhcr. 
Judge Thompson opens his Circuit 



tains a tavern, 1 general store, a 
blacksmith's and a wheelwright's 
shop. 

Earlysville, is pleasantly situ- 
ated 1^ m's. E. of Longwood, and 
13 N. of Charlottesville. It contains 

7 dwellings, 1 tavern, 1 general store, 
1 tailor, 1 wheelwright, 1 black- 
smith's shop, and 1 tan yard. Popu- 
lation 35. 

Garland's Store, P. O. 137 m's. 
from W., and 95 from R. 

Hardin's Tavern, P. O. 130 m's. 
S. W. of W., and 88 from R., situated 

8 miles W. of Charlottesville; near it 
the Methodists have a house of wor- 
ship called Shiloe. 

Hydraulic Mills, P. O. 112 S. 
W. of W. and 100 W. of R., 6 miles 
from Charlottesvile. 

Laurel Spring, P. O. 167 m's. 
from W., and 25 m's. W. of Char- 
lottesville. 

LiNDSEv's Store, P. O. 76 m's. 
W. of R. and 108 from W. 

LoNGWooD, P. V. 94 m's. N. W. 
by W. of R. and 136 S. W. of W. it 
has several dwelling houses. Popu- 
lation 30. One physician. 

Milton, 120 ms. S. W. of W. and 
81 N. W. by W. of R. and 6 miles 
S. E. of Charlottesville: — situated 
on the right bank of the Rivanna, and 
a mile and a half from the main stage 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— ALBEMARLE. 



115 



road leading from Charlottesville to 
Richmond. It was formerly a place 
of some trade, being the head of boat 
navigation, but the imperfect state of 
the navigation and the competition of 
Scottsvilje and Charlottesville have 
caused it to go to ruin. It contains 
16 dwelling houses, 2 mercantile 
stores, and 1 tanyard; — It has a plea- 
sant and romantic situation, upon a 
high spur or abutment of Monticello 
mountain, which places it far above 
the level of the river. — On the oppo- 
site side of the river, there is a Bap- 
tist cliurch and a grist mill. Popu- 
lation 60 whites and 10 free blacks. 

Moreman's River, P. O. 143 ms, 
from W. and 104 from R.— N. W. of 
Charlottesville, and in the N. W. an-j 
gle of the county; it has a house of 
private entertainment, one general 
store and a blacksmith shop. 

Monticello. — We have seen no 
where so true, so accurate, or so beau- 
tiful a description of the dwelling 
place of the Great Apostle of Liberty, 
as in Wirt's " Eulogy upon Adavis 
and Jcjfcrsoti.^^ We are glad to have 
an opportunity of relieving the tedium 
of drj' statistic detail, by so rich a 
specimen of taste. " Let us now turn 
for a moment to the patriot of the 
South. The Roman morallist, in that 
great work which he has left for the 
government of man in all the offices 
of life, has descended even to prescribe 
the kind of habitation in which an 
honored and distingviished man should 
dwell. It should not, he says, be 
small, and mean, and sordid : nor, on 
the other hand, extended with profuse 
and wanton extravagance. It should 
be large enough to receive and accom- 
modate the visiters which such a man 
never fails to attract, and suited in its 
ornaments, as Avell as in its dim.en- 
sions, to the character and fortune of 
the individual. Monticello has now 
lost its great charm. 

'• Those of you who have not alrea- 
dy visited it, will not be very apt to 
visit it hereafter: and from the feel- 



ings which you cherish for its depart- 
ed owner, I persuade myself that you 
will not be displeased with a brief and 
rapid sketch of that abode of domes- 
tic bliss, that temple of science. Nor 
is it, indeed, foreign to the express pur- 
pose of this meeting, which, in look- 
ing to 'his life and character,' natu- 
rally embraces his home and his do- 
mestic habits. Can any thing be in- 
different to us, which was so dear to 
him, and which was a subject of such 
just admiration to the hundreds and 
thousands that were continually re- 
sorting to it, as an object of pious pil- 
grimage? 

" The Mansion House at Monti- 
cello Avas built and furnished in the 
days of his prosperity. In its dimen- 
sions, its architecture, its arrangements 
and ornaments, it is such a one as be- 
came the character and fortune of the 
man. It stands upon an elliptic plain, 
formed by cutting down the apex of a 
mountain ; and, to the west, stretching 
away to the north and the south, it 
commands a view of the Blue Ridge 
for a hundred and fifty miles, and 
brings under the eye one of the bold- 
est and most beautiful horizons in the 
world ; while on the east, it presents 
an extent of prospect bounded only by 
the spherical form of the earth, in 
which nature seems to sleep in eter- 
nal repose, as if to form one of her 
finest contrasts with the rude and rol- 
ling grandeur of the Avest. In the 
wide prospect, and scattered to the 
north and south, are several detached 
mountains, which contribute to ani- 
mate and diversify this enchanting 
landscape; and among them, to the 
south Willis's mountain,* which is 

* This mountain, which is in the county 
of Buckingham, at a distance of 70 miles 
from R. consists of two conical peaks jut- 
ting from the plain, which often at sunrise 
on a clear morning, assume every possible 
variety of lorm, and in each appears so 
natural, that one seeing it for the first time, 
would suppose each its natural shape. 
This beautiful illusion is produced by the 
rising of the clouds towards the summit of 
th^ rnountain. on the rising of the sun. 



IIG 



EASTERN VIRC4INIA— ALBEMARLE. 



so interestingly depicted in liis Notes. 
From this summit, the Philosopher 
was wont to enjoy that spectacle, among 
the sublimest of Nature's operations, 
the looming of the distant mountains; 
and to watch the motions of the plan- 
ets, and the greater revolution of the 
celestial sphere. From this summit, 
too, the patriot could look down with 
uninterrupted vision, upon the wide 
expanse of the world around, for which 
he considered himself born ; and up- 
ward to the open and vaulted heavens, 
which he seemed to approach, as if 
to keep him continually in mind of 
his high responsibility. It is indeed 
a prospect in which you see and feel, 
at once, that nothing mean or little 
could live. It is a scene fit to nourish 
those great and high-souled principles 
which formed the elements of his cha- 
racter, and was a most noble and ap- 
propriate post for such a sentinel, over 
the rights and liberties of men. 

"Approaching the house on the 
east, the visiter instinctiv^ely paused to 
cast around one thrilhng glance at 
this magnificent panorama: and then 
passed to the vestibule, where, if he 
had not been previously informed, he 
would immediately perceive that he 
was entering the house of no common 
man. In the spacious and lofty hall 
which opens before him, he marks 
no tawdry and unmeaning ornaments : 
but before, on the right, on the left, 
all around, the eye is struck and grati- 
fied by objects of science and taste, so 
classed and arranged as to produce 
their finest effect. On one side, spe- 
cimens of sculpture set out in such 
order, as to exhibit at a 'coup d' Oil, 
the historical progress of that art, 
from the first rude attempts of the ab- 
origines of our country, up to that ex- 
quisite and finished bust of the great 
patriot himself, from the master hand 
of Caracci. On the other side the 
visiter sees displayed a vast collection 
of specimens of the Indian art, their 
paintings, weapons, ornaments, and 
manufactures; on another an array of 



the fossil productions of our conntrj', 
mineral and animal; the polished re- 
mains of those colossal monsters that 
once trod our forests, and are no more ; 
and a variegated display of the branch- 
ing honors of those 'monarchfi of the 
waste,' that still people the wilds of 
the American Continent. 

" From this hall he was ushered into 
a noble saloon, from which the glorious 
landscape of the west again bursts up- 
on his view; and Avhich, whhin, is 
hung thick around with the finest pro- 
ductions of the pencil- — historical 
paintings of the most striking svibjects, 
from all countries, and all ages; the 
portraits of distinguished men and 
patriots, both of Europe and America, 
and medallions, and engravings in 
endless profusion. 

" While the visiter was yet lost in 
the contemplation of these treasiires 
of the arts and sciences, he was start- 
led by the approach of a strong and 
sprightly step, and turning Avith in- 
stinctive reverence to the door of en- 
trance, he was met by the tall, and ani- 
mated, and stately figure of the pat- 
riot himself — his countenance beam- 
ing with intelligence and benignity, 
and his outstretched hand, Avith its 
strong and cordial pressure, confirm- 
ing the courteous welcome of his lips. 
And then came the charm of manner 
and conversation that passes all de- 
scription — so cheerful — so unassum- 
ing — so free, and easy, and frank, and 
kind, and gay, — that even the young 
and overawed, and embarrassed visiter 
forgets his fears, and felt himself by 
the side of an old and familiar friend." 

Mr. Jefierson states in his Notes 
that Monticello is 500 feet above the 
Rivanna which runs at its base; it is 
the most northern of the portion of the 
South West mountain, called by the 
local name of Carter's mountain. 
The late proprietor injured the ap- 
pearance of Monticello very much by 
cutting doAvn the beautiful shade and 
ornamental trees for the purpose of 
cultivation; but it is believed that the 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— ALIiEMARLE. 



117 



deep venovation ontortaint'il by tlie pro- 
stMil owiuT for the cliaracter of Mr. 
JetTiTSon, and the respect he enter- 
tains even for the inanimate objects 
associated with his memory, will lead 
him to restore it, as far as possible to 
the condition in which he left it, and 
attend carefnlly to the preservation of 
every object which conld be supposed 
to have occupied hisattention, or added 
beauty to his residence. The curiosi- 
ties of which Mr. Wirt speaks were 
presented to the University of Virgi- 
nia, the painting's we believe were 
sold, the bust was bought by Congress. 
— A simple massive granite obelisk 
marks the grave of Jeiferson, Avhh the 
unostentatious inscription written by 
himself, which speaks only of being 
the "Author of the Declaration of 
Independence, and the Founder of 
the University of Virginia;" thus 
showing how much more highly the 
venerable sage regarded the bvirsting 
of the fetters which bound the free- 
dom of the people, and the emancipa- 
tion of the mind from the chains of 
ignorance, — than all his civic tri- 
umphs. 

Mount Alto, P. O. 156 ms. S. 
W. by W. of W. and 97 ms. from R. 

Mount Israel P. O. 145 ms. S. 
W. of W. and 103 from R.— 17 ms. 
N. W. of Charlottesville. 

New York, P. V. 143 ms. S. S. 
W. of W. and 101 from R.— It is 
situated in the western part of the 
county, near the foot of the Blue Ridge ; 
it contains 15 houses, 2 general stores, 
1 lanyard, 1 jackscrew manufacturer, 
1 boot and shoe maker, and 1 black- 
smith's shop — Population 70. 

ScoTTsviLLE, formerly Scott's 
Ferry, is 150 miles S. W. of Wash- 
ington, and 83 W. of Richmond. It 
is situated on the N. bank of James 
river, 20 miles W. S. W. of Char- 
lottesville. This place has improved 
rapidly in the last 4 years, and is yet 
a flourishing villa.o-e. It contains 120 
houses, chiefly of brick; one Metho- 
dist and one Presbyterian house of 



worship, a male and a female school, 
and two Sunday schools, nine gene- 
ral and five grocery stores, and one 
apothecaries shop. The principal 
manulacturcs arc clothing, leather 
shoes, cabinet work, and earthen ware. 
An inspection of flour and tobacco is 
established in this place, of tlie former 
the average quantity inspected and 
sold is 3500 barrels. Scottsville car- 
ries on an extensiA'e trade in flour, 
bacon, butter, lard, and other pro- 
ducts, with the counties of Nelson, 
Augusta, Rockbridge, Rockingham, 
Bath, Pendleton, and Pocahontas; 
these products are exchanged for 
groceries, gypsum, coarse cotton and 
woollen cloths and money. The mar- 
ket of Scottsville is ready and tempt- 
ing to the producer, the only fault of 
its enterprising merchants being that 
they pay prices too liberal for their 
own prosperity, and this cause only 
has lateh' given a temporary check 
to the rising of the town. A tri- 
weekly line of stages passes through 
it, communicating with Richmond 
and Staunton. Scottsville being situ- 
ated at the extreme north^vestern bend 
of the navigable water of James river, 
would probably acquire an immense 
increase of trade, if the James and 
Kanawha improvement is carried in- 
to effect. There is a savings institu- 
tion in the town. It has two resident 
attorniesand four regular physicians; 
its whole population is about GOO. 

SiiADWELL Mills, — erected by Mr. 
Jeflerson, on the Rivanna near the spot 
of his birth ; they carrj^ on an exten- 
sive business, having a large mer- 
chant, grist, and saw mill, with a 
carding machine, &c. The main 
stage road from Charlottesville to 
Richmond runs by them. 

Stoney Point, P. V. 71 ms. N. 
W. by W. of Richmond, and 113 
from Washington — in the N. E. part 
of the county. 

University of Viroin'a, P. O. 
situated one mile W. of Charlottes- 
ville, 124 W. of S. W. from Wash- 



118 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— ALBEMARLE, 



ington, and 82 N. W. by W. of Rich- 
mond. This institution was founded 
in 1819, under the immediate super- 
vision of Mr. Jefferson, and organised 
in 1825, and had the same year 123 
students, and has been gradually in- 
creasing until in 1834 it had 208, — 
Its Library contains nearly 10,000 
volumes; ils philosophical and chemi- 
cal apparatus are very complete, and 
it has a handsome cabinet of mine- 
rals. There is also an anatomical 
and a general museum, and an astro- 
nomical observatory, with the requi- 
site instruments. The importance of 
this institution to the state renders it 
necessary to give a fuller detail of its 
management and regulations than of 
similar institutions. 

Matriculation. — To be admit- 
ted into the University, the Student 
must be sixteen years of age ; but 
the Faculty are authorised to dis- 
pense with this requisition in the case 
of application for admission by two 
brothers, one of whom is under the 
age of sixteen. 

If the applicant for admission has 
been a student at any other incorpor- 
ated seminary, he cannot be received, 
but on producing a certificate from 
such seminary, or other satisfactory 
evidence to the FacuUy, with respect 
to his general good conduct. 

Every Student is free to attend the 
Schools of his choice, and no other 
than he choses ; provided, that if un- 
der the age of twenty-one, he shall 
attend at least three professors, unless 
he has the wrhten authority of his 
parent or guardian, or the Faculty 
shall, for good cause shewn, allow 
him to attend less than three. The 
qualifications of the Student to enter 
the Schools of Antient Languages, 
Mathematics, and Natural Philoso- 
phy, are tested by previous examina- 
tions. 

Before a student matriculates, he is 
furnished with a copy of the laws, 
which he is required to read. On 
matriculating, he signs a Avritten de- 



claration, that he will conform to those 
laws, and, if he be a resident student, 
that he has deposited with the Patron 
all the funds in his possession. 

Course of Instruction. — In 
each school, there are three regular 
lectures a week : besides which, there 
are in most of them extra lectures 
suited to the several classes into which 
the school is divided. The mode of 
instruction is by text-books and lec- 
tures, accompanied by rigid examina- 
tions. The course pursued in each 
school, is as follows. 

Ancient Languages. Profes- 
sor Harrison. — In this school are 
taught the Latin and Greek Lan- 
guages, and Literature, and the He- 
brew Language. The instruction, 
by prelections and examina- 
comprises the following sub- 



given 
tions, 
jects; 

1. The formation and composition 
of words, and the laws by which they 
are governed. 

2. The prim.ary and secondary 
signification of words and the princi- 
ples by which they must be ascer- 
tained. 

3. Syntax. — The relations which 
words sustain to each other in a sen- 
tence, are taught at the same time and 
in connexion with their endings, the 
latter serving, with the aid of prepo- 
sitions, &c., as signs of the former. 
The importance of attending to the 
order in which Avords are arranged 
in a sentence, and of being careful to 
read the words and members of a sen- 
tence just as they stand in the Latin 
and Greek authors, is insisted upon. 
The other idomatic peculiarities are 
carefully noticed. 

4. Metres and Quantity. — These 
are objects of constant attention. 

5. The Greek and Roman Histo- 
ry, Geography and Literature, are 
taught by prelections, and by com- 
menting on portions of the text-books 
appointed to be read. These form 
part of the studies of the senior classes. 

The text-books are: 



Eastern Virginia— albemarle. 



119 



tn the Junior Latin Class: — Ho-icnce is made to Mltford, Gillies, <kc. 
race, Cicero's Epistles ad Divcrsos,\i\\ both Grecian and Roman History, 
Terence, and Caesar's Commentaries;! pains is taken to point out the ancient 
the last chiefly with a view to the writ- authorities 



In Hebrew: — Biblia Hebraica.edit. 
Van Der Hooght, by D'Allemand, 
London ; or the revised edition by 
Aug. Hahn, Leipsic; which is better. 
Stuart's HebrcAv Grammar, 3d edi- 
tion, and Gesenius's Hebrew Lexicon, 
by Gibbs : [not the abridgement.] 

It is expected of the students of La- 
tin and Greek, that they Avill read in 
their rooms a list of such authors and 
parts of authors, furnished by the 
Professor, as cannot be read in the 
lecture-room : e. g. Cicero's Epistles 
to Atticus, his Orations (selected,) 
and Treatise " de Republica ;" Sal- 
lust, Terence, Plautus : ^schylus, 
Virgil, Sophocles, Euripides, Aristo- 
phanes, Demosthenes, iEschines, Thu- 
cydides, &c. 

As an essential part of the course, 
the students of each class are required 
to furnish regularly, once a week, a 
written exercise; which consists in 
the conversion of Latin or Greek into 
English, and of English into Latin or 
Greek. The exercises are examined 
by the Professor, and the errors 
marked : thus corrected, they are re- 
turned to the students, and the correc- 
tions stated and explained in the pre- 
sence of the class. For these exer- 
cises, the classic authors are used as 
the text. The black-board is contin- 
ually used for the prupose of assisting^ 
the student, by the aid of the eye, in 
comprehending and retaining the il- 
lustrations given. 

Modern Laxguages. Professor 
BlfCllermann.—Thelanguagcsiaught, 
in this school, arc the French, Span- 
Manual: also, Montesquieu's "Gran- ish, Italian, German, and Anglo Sax- 
deur et decadence des Romains," andjon; and if desired, will also be taught, 
Dunlop's History of Roman Litera- the Danish, Swedish, Hollandish, and 
ture. ' Portuguese Languages. In each of 

In Grecian. Ifisiori/, Sec: — The' them, there are two classes, the senior 
History of Greece published by the i and the junior, together with a third 
Society for the Diffusion of Useful class for those who wish to qualify 
IviioM-lcdge, is the text-book. Refer- themselves for degrees in this school. 



ten exercises. Zumpt's Latin Gram- 
mar is referred to. The student should 
have Lemprlere's Classical Dictiona- 
ry, new edition by Anthon, in two 
vols.; Adams' Roman Antiquities, and 
the Ancient, with the corresponding 
Modern Maps of the series published 
by the "Society for the diffusion 
of useful kno\vledge," or the " iEton 
Comparative Atlas." 

In the Senior Latin Class: — Juve- 
nal, Livy, and Tacitus. Of both Livy 
and Tacitus the student should have 
the whole works, so for as they re- 
main. 

In the Junior Greek Class: — Xe- 
nophon's Anabasis, a play of Euri- 
pides, or ^schylus, and Herodotus 
Buttmann's Greek Grammar, is re- 
rerred to: — ^^the " Larger" Grammar 
of Buttmann, by Robinson, is to be 
preferred. Donnegan's Greek and 
English Lexicon, and Thiersch's 
Greek Tables by Patton, are recom 
mended. 

In the Senior Greek Class: — Eu- 
ripides, Sophocles, Thucydides, and 
Homer. In the prelections to this 
class, it is attempted to introduce the 
student into the higher departments of 
grammatical criticism; references are 
made to the large Grammar of Mat- 
thice, and to the annotations of Por- 
son, Schaefer, Hermann, Erfurdt, 
Elmsley, &lc. 

In Roman History, &;c. — The stu- 
dents are advised to read the early 
part of Hooke's Roman History, with 
Ferguson's Roman Republic, Nieb- 
iihr's Roman History, and Heeren's 



120 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— ALBEMARLE. 



as It is required that tAVo degrees bei 
obtained in modern languages before 
that of A. M. will be conferred: Be- 
sides the oral translations in the lec- 
ture room, the students are required 
to write, as regular exercises out of 
the lecture rooms, translations from 
the foreign language into English, 
and vice versa. Lectures on the 
Literature of each of the nations 
whose languages are taught, are de- 
livered twice a week, by the Profes- 
sor ; as also lectures on Modern His- 
tory, and the political relations of the 
different civilized nations of the pre- 
sent day. The text-books used are 
the principal classics in each lan- 
guage. 

Mathematics. Professor Bon- 
nycastle. — In this school there are 
commonly 5 classes. Of these, the 
first junior begins Avith Arithmetic: 
but as the student is required to have 
some knowledge of this subject when 
he enters the University, the lectures 
of the Professor are limited to the 
theory, shewing the methed of nam 
ing numbers, the different scales of 
notation, and the derivation of the 
several rules of Arithmetic froin the 
primary notion of addition; the addi- 
tion namely, of sensible objects one 
by one. The ideas thus acquired are 
appealed to at every subsequent step, 
;and much pains are taken to exhibit 
Vhe gradual developement from these 
elementary truths, of the extensive 
science of mathematical analysis. 
Lacroix's Arithmetic is the text-book. 

In Algebra, the first problems are 
analyzed with, and without, the use 
of letters, to make the student sensible 
'of the advantages of these signs. In 
teaching the rules for adding, sub- 
tracting, &c., they are compared with 
the correspondent rules in Arithmetic, 
tind the agreement or diversity is no- 
ticed and explained. The text-book 
IS Lacroix's Algebra. 

In Geometry, the first elements arc 
taught, and illustrated by the use of 
•models. 



The second junior class continue 
to read Lacroix's Algebra, and Bon- 
nycastle's Inductive Geometry. In 
the latter, they successively acquire, 
the theorems of Synthetic Geometry — 
the theory and practice oi Plane and 
Spherical Trigonometry, with the ap- 
plication of the latter to Nautical As- 
tronomy — the theory of Projection — 
and the theory of Curved lines and 
Surfaces. Their subsequent studies 
usually embrace a portion of the Dif- 
ferential Calculus. 

The senior classes continue the 
Differential Calculus in lessons taken 
from Young and from Bonnycastle's 
Geometry, concluding the course of 
pure Mathematics with the Integral 
Calculus, the theory of which is taken 
from Young, and the examples, from 
Peacock. 

There is, rnoreover, a class of Mix- 
ed Mathematics, for such of the more 
advanced students as choose to pursue 
it; which consists of parts of Ventu- 
roli's Mechanics, the first book of 
Laplace's Mecanique Celeste, and of 
the applications of the principles there 
given to various problems. 

And, lastly, there is attached to this 
school a class of Civil Engineering ; 
Avhcrein are taught the first principles 
of Descriptive Geometry — of the con- 
struction of draughts and plans — of 
surveying — and, lastly, of the con- 
struction of Roads, Canals, Bridges, 
and other public Avorks. 

Natural Philosophy. Profes- 
sor Patierso7i. — The course of lec- 
tures in this school is divided into 
two parts, each of Avhich is followed 
by a general Avritten examination of 
the students. The first part treats of 
the properties of ponderable bodies, 
and includes Statics, Dynamics, Hy- 
drostatics, Hydrodynamics, Pneumat- 
ics, Crystalization, Molecular and 
Capillary Attraction, Strength and 
Stress of Materials, and Acoustics. 
The second part comprises Heat, in- 
cluding Meteorology and the Steam- 
engine, Electricity and Galvanism, 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— ALBEMARLE. 



121 



Magnetism and Electro Magnetism, 
Optics, Astronomy. 

The te.xt-books used are, Lardner 
and Kater's Mechanics, Lardner's 
Hydrostatics and Pneumatics, Brew- 
ster's Optics, the Treatises on Heat, 
Electricity, Galvanism, Magnetism, 
and Electro Magnetism, in the Library 
of Useful Knowledge, and Herschel's 
Astronomy. 

As the enactments require only an 
acquaintance with arithmetic in order 
to enter this school, mathematical de- 
monstrations, though not avoided by 
the Professor, are not required of the 
students of the general class. But the 
candidates for graduation form a sep- 
arate class, and are taught the appli- 
cations of elementary mathematics, 
(Algebra, Geometry, and Trigonom- 
etry,) to Natural Philosophy. The 
application of the higher calculus be- 
longs to the school of Mathematics. 

The Apparatus provided for the 
school of Natural Philosophy is very 
extensive and complete, and thus ena- 
bles the Professor to illustrate every 
part of his course by e.\periments in 
the presence of his class. An Obser- 
vatory, with its appropriate astrono- 
mical instruments, is also attached to 
this school. 

Chemistry and Materi.\ Medi- 
CA. Professor Emmet. — There are 
two classes in this school ; one of 
Chemistry, to Avhich there are lec- 
tures given twice a week, and the 
other of Materia Medica and Phar- 
macy, to which is given a lecture 
once a week throughout the session. 
In the Chemical lectures, all the 
important applications of the science 
to the mechanic arts, agriculture and 
domestic economy are noticed, and, 
Avhen practicable, illustrated by ex- 
periment. In the lectures on earths 
and metals, the appropriate minerals 
are exhibited and noticed with refer- 
ence to the sciences of Mineralogy 
and Geology. At the close of the 
history of inorganic matter, the atomic 
theory and the laws of definite pro- 
16 



portions are fully explained and ex- 
emplified. The laUer part of the 
course is occupied with the chemistry 
of organic substances, and it compri- 
ses the history, analysis and proper- 
ties of each substance ; to which are 
added general views of the connexion 
between Chemistry and the physiolo- 
gy of animals and vegetables. 

In the lectures on Materia Medica 
and Pharmacy, the subjects are treat- 
ed in the following order: — The ope- 
rations of Pharmacy, Pharmaceutical 
preparations, the effect which the 
combining of different substances has 
on their medicinal properties, the dif- 
ferent classifications of the Materia 
Medica, and lastly, its several articles 
treated alphabetically. 

There is attached to this school, a 
very extensive apparatus and a labo- 
ratory, in which the students are oc- 
casionally permitted to see the opera- 
tions, and to perform experiments. A 
free use is made of the black-board in 
these as in almost all the other classes 
in the University. 

Medicine. Professor Magill. — 
The subjects taught in this school are 
Physiology, Pathology, Therapeu- 
tics, Obstetrics and Medical Jurispru- 
dence. The last forms a distinct 
class, and comprehends other stu- 
dents in addition to those of Medicine. 
A full course of lectures is delivered 
on eachof the above branches. Dun- 
glison's Human Physiology is the 
text-book on that subject ; in Patholo- 
gy and the practice of Medicine, 
Eberle's Practice of Medicine is re- 
commended ; in Obstetrics, Burns, or 
Dewees, or Gooch ; and in Medical 
Jurisprudence, Beck or Ryan. 

Anatomy and Surgery. Pro- 
fessor Warner. — In Anatomy, the 
lectures are delivered from Subjects, 
with which the school is regularly 
supplied. The text-book is Horner's 
Special Anatomy. In Surgery, the 
text-book is Cooper's First Lines. 
This and the two preceding schools 
constitute the Medical Department of 



122 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— ALBEMARLE, 



the University ; and the candidates for 
the degree of " Doctor of Medicine," 
must pass examination in them all. 
An extensive Museum is attached to 
this department. It possesses one 
advantage, at least, over the other 
Medical Schools in the United States 
in having a session of more than ten 
months, instead of one of about four. 

A full course of lectures in the 
Medical Department of this Univer- 
sity, is considered as equivalent to a 
full course in both the Philadelphia 
and Baltimore Schools ; so that a stu- 
dent with a certificate from this Uni- 
versity of having attended a full coarse 
of lectures here, is entitled to stand 
for graduation at either of the above 
named schools, after having attended 
all the lectures there delivered for one 
session only. 

Moral Philosophy. Professor 
Tucker. — There are two classes in 
this school. The Junior Class stu- 
dies Rhetoric, Belles-Lettres and 
Logic, the first half of the session, 
and Belles-Lettres and Ethics, the last 
half. 

The Senior, studies Mental Philos- 
ophy, the first part of the session, and 
Political Economy the last. The ex- 
aminations are on the Professor's lec- 
tures. Brown's Philosophy, Say's Po- 
litical Economy, and Adam Smith. 

In the Junior Class, the examina- 
tions are on the Professor's Lectures, 
Blair's Lectures, Campbell's Rhe- 
toric, Stewart's Active and Moral 
Powers. 

There are also in this school, lec- 
tures on logic and general grammar. 

Law. Professor Davis. — In this 
school are taught the Law of Nature 
and Nations, the Science of Govern- 
ment, Constitutional Law, the Com- 
mon and Statute Law, Equity, and 
Maritime and Commercial Law. 

This s-chool is divided into two 
classes. The text-books studied by 
the junior class, are Vattel's Law of 
Nature and of Nations, the Federal- 
ist, the Virginia Report of '99, and 



Blackstone's Commentaries. Those 
■studied by the senior, are Coke upon 
Littleton,' (Thomas's edition,) Stephen 
on Pleading, Starkie on Evidence, 
(the first vol.) Toller on Executors, 
Chitty on Contracts, Bayley on Bills, 
Fonblanque's Equity, and Mitford's 
Pleadings , to which it is proposed to 
add a treatise on Commercial and 
Maritime Law. 

On these books, prelections are de* 
livered by the Professor, in which it 
is his object to supp-y what is defi- 
cient and explain what is obscure in 
the text, to refer in connection with it 
to the leading cases and authorities, 
American and English, illustrative of 
the topic under consideration, and 
generally, to offer such comments as 
he deems necessary to its thorough 
understai:iding. In these prelections, 
the statute law of Virginia and the 
United States, and its effects on the 
pre-existing law are particularly ex- 
plained. Each prelection is preceded 
by an examination on the last togeth- 
er with its text. 

On government, and on various to- 
pics of National, Constitutional and 
Municipal Law, not discussed in the 
text-books, lectures are delivered; on 
which also, the class are examined. 

Students not Vv'ishing to study Mu- 
nicipal Law, can enter for that por- 
tion only of the junior course, which 
embraces National Law, Government 
and Constitutional Law ; which por- 
tion, those wishing to study Muni- 
cipal Law only, can if they choose 
omit. 

The students of this school have 
instituted a Law Society, at the meet- 
ings of which the Professor presides. 
In it, questions connected Avith the 
studies of the school are discussed, 
fictitious cases litigated in the form of 
regular pleadings, and the issues pro- 
duced decided in the appropriate mode, 
and the members exercised in convey- 
ancing by having to prepare and sub- 
mit to the Society the necessary deeds 
to effectuate supposed agreements, &c. 



EASTERN Vma INI A— ALBEMARLE. 



123 



Relig^ioiis exercises arc performed 
at the University every Sunday, by a 
Minister of the Gospel, residing there, 
Avhose services arc rendered on the 
private invalion of the Professors, Of- 
cers and Students. 

Examinations. — There are two 
public examinations of all the stu- 
dents, each session, the one at such 
convenient time about the middle of 
the session as the Faculty shall ap- 
point, the other at the close of the ses- 
sion. 

These are thus conducted. The 
Professor of the School prepares, in 
writing, a series of questions to be 
proposed to his class, and affixes to 
them numerical values, according to 
his estimate of their relative difficulty. 
On the assembling of the class for ex- 
amination, these question are for the 
first time presented to them ; and they 
are required to answer them in writ- 
ing, in a prescribed time, without 
communication with one another or 
with other persons, and without any 
reference to books. Their answers 
are subsequently carefully examined 
and compared, and a value attached 
to each, not exceeding that of the cor- 
responding question. In the schools 
of languages, subjects may also be se- 
lected for oral examination, and the 
values of these exercises are marked 
at the time. 

The students are then arranged in- 
to four divisions, according to the 
merit of their examinations, as deter- 
mined by the following method. The 
numerical values attached to all the 
questions rare added together, and also 
the values ot the answers given by 
each student. If this last number 
amounts to three-fourths of the first, 
the student is ranked in the first di- 
vision ; if it be less than three-fourths 
and as much as one-half, in the se- 
cond; if less than one-half and as 
much as a fourth, in the third ; if less 
than a fourth, in the fourth division. 
The examinations are conducted and 
the results acertained bv a committee, 



consisting of the professor of the 
school and two other professors. 

The standing of each student at the 
examinations is communicated to his 
parent or guardian : and the names of 
those who are in the first divisions 
are announced on the public day, at 
the closeof the session, and published 
in one or more of the newspapers of 
the state. 

Degkees. — Three honarary dis- 
tinctions are conferred in this institu- 
tion ; a Cerllficau of Profcienci/ — 
that of Graduate in any School — and 
that oi Master of Arts of the Univer- 
sity of Virginia. 

The first, the Faculty may confer 
on any student who shall, on exami- 
nation, give satisfactory evidence of a 
competent acquaintance with any of 
those particular branches which, ac- 
cording to the regulations, may be 
separately attended in a school. The 
second, they are authorized to confer 
on any student who shall, on exami- 
nation, give satisfactory evidence of 
his proficiency in the general studies 
of any of the schools. And the third, 
is obtained by graduation, in the 
schools if Antient Languages, Mod- 
ern Languages, Mathemetics, Natu- 
ral Philosophy, Chemistry, and Mo- 
ral Philosophy. But in all cases, to 
obtain a diploma, or certificate of pro- 
ficiency, the candidate must give the 
Facultjr satisfactory proof of his abili- 
ty to write the English language cor- 
rectly. 

No particular period of study is 
prescribed for the acquisition of these 
honors. The student obtains them 
whenever he can undergo the rigid 
examinations to which the candidates 
for them are subjected. 

The title of Doctor of Medicine is 
conferred on the graduate in the 
Medical Department. 

On the last day of the session, the 
Visitors, Faculty, Officers and Stu- 
dents, assemble in the Rotunda, and 
the public are invited to attend. On 
this occasion, the certificates and di- 



124 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— ALBEMARLE. 



15 



15 



plomas are awarded to the successful i other available funds, which he shall 

have in his possession, or under his 
control, in any manner intended to 
defray his expenses while at the Uni- 
versity, or on his return from thence 
to his residence. Nor shall he ma- 
triculate, till he shall have deposited a 
sum at least sufficient, after deducting 
the Patron's commission, two per 
cent, to pay for the use of his dormi- 
tory and the public rooms, to pay the 
fees of the Professors whom he may 
design to attend, to pay 3 months' 
board to his hotel-keeper, to purchase 
the text-books and stationary Avhich 
he may want at the commencement, 
and $20 on account of fuel and can- 
dles, and $10 to cover contingent 
charges and assessments against him 
for injuries to the buildings, &c., 
which two last mentioned sums are 
credited in the final settlement of his 
accounts. In like manner, he shall 
deposit with the Patron all the funds 
which he shall receive while a stu- 
dent of the University, for the pur- 
poses aforesaid. At the end of the 
first three months of the session, he 
shall deposit enough to pay his board 
and other expenses for the next three 
months ; and at the expiration of the 
second period of three months, he 
shall deposit enough to pay his board 
and other expenses for the residue of 
the session. 

Students resident out of the Uni- 
versity, are required, on matriculating, 
to deposit with the Patron funds suf- 
ficient, after deducting the Patron's 
commission, to pay the fees of the 
Professors whom they propose to at- 
tend, the sum charged for the use of 
the public rooms, and $10 to cover 
contingent charges. 

The expenses of the students resi- 
dent in the University, are limited as 
follows: — for board, the use of dormi- 
tory and public rooms, and tuition 
fees, the sums before stated; for cloth- 
ing during the session, a sum not ex- 
ceeding $100; for pocket-money du- 

$40; 



candidates, the results of the exami- 
nations are announced, and orations 
are delivered, and essays read by Stu- 
dents appointed for that purpose. 

Expenses, &c. — The expenses 
for the session of upwards of 10 
months, commencing the 1st of Sep- 
tember, and ending the 4th of July 
following, areas follows: — 
Board, including bed and other 
room furniture, washing and 

attendance, $100 

Fuel and candles, to be fur- 
nished by the Proctor, at 
cost, and 5 per cent commis- 
sion, estimated, if only one 
student in the dormitory, at 
$30, — if two students in the 

dormitory at 

Rent of an entire dormitory 
$16 ; for half, if occupied by 
two students, 
Use of the library and public 

rooms, 

Fees — if one professor be at- 
tended $50 ; if two, each 
$30 : if more than two, each 



-say, 



75 



Total, exclusive of books and 

stationary, clothing and 

pocket money, - - - - $213 

In addition to the regular fee, 
$20 is paid by students who at- 
tend the Senior Class in the school of 
Law. 

Boarding-houses are provided with- 
in the precincts, for the accommoda- 
tion of students; and no student is per 
mitted to board or lodge out of the 
precincts, unless in the family of his 
parent or guardian, or of some par- 
ticular friend, approved by the Facul- 
ty. Except, that students above the 
age of 20 years, may reside out of the 
precincts, in such private boarding 
houses as the Faculty may approve 

Every student resident within the 
precincts, is required, on matricula- 
ting, to deposit with the Patron, all 
the money, checks, bills, drafts, and ring the session, not^ exceedin 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— ALBEMARLE. 



125 



for books or stalioncrj-, whatever thejBut tlie privilege so allowed may be 
parent or guardian may think fit to withdrawn by the Faculty, at any 
allow; for medicine and medical' at- time, when in their opinion it has 
tendanco whatever may be necessary, been used to the evil example of the 
These limits are in no case to be ex- students, and otherwise to the injury 
ceeded, unless under special circum-jOf the Institution, 
stances, the Faculty shall allow it. At the end of every month, a cir- 
Resident students are forbidden to cular is addressed by the Chairman 
contract any debts whatsoever; but of the Faculty to the parent or guar- 
for every thing purchased, they are dian of each student, in which are 
forthwith to pay, or to draw upon a stated his absences from the lectures 
fund in the hands of the Patron ap- he was bound to attend, and other ir 



plicable thereto 

Students, wherever resident, arc re- 
quired to wear the uniform prescribed 



regularities of which he may have 
been guilty, that month ; together 
with such information as to the stu- 



by the enactments; consisting of clothjdent's progress and conduct as it may 
of a dark grey mixture, at a price notibe deemed proper to communicate, 
exceeding $G a yard. Accomplishments. --There are in 

The Faculty, at their discretion, jthe University, teachers of Music, Fen- 
may allow any man, of undoubted:cing and Dancing, authorized by the 
moral character, above the age of 23 Faculty to give instruction in those 
years, to attend lectures in any of the accomplishments to such students, as 
Schools of the University, and to re, wish to acquire them, 
side out of the precincts, exempt fromj A military corps has been formed 
the rules and regulations prescribediby the students, and an instructor ap- 
for the government of students : ex-'pointed, for the purpose of learning 
cept only, that he shall pay the usual military tactics. One afternoon in 
Professors' fees, and the usual com-ithe week is devoted to these exer- 
pensation for the use of the public cises ; but it is at the option of the 
rooms, and shall observe all those student whether he will engage iu 
laws of the Institution which enjoin them, 
respectful und orderly deportment:. 



126 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— ALBEMARLE. 



TABLE, cxhlbUlng Ihc slalc. of the several Schools of the Uidvcrsihj, from 

its commencement. 



o 

!- C 
GJ C 




si's 

a; h 


a br, 


-a 5 
o be 


•i-H 

S 


it 


X3 rt 

OS 





_ 


S biC' 
j; 

< 






G C 

5p 


1st. 


1825 


123 


57 


73 


73 


35 


35 


2(i 






15 




314 


2d. 


1826 


177 


107 


90 


98 


43 


45 


It; 






28 


26 


453 


3d. 


1827 


128 


53 


59 


62 


24 


38 


16 


4 




12 


18 


286 


4th. 


1827-8 


131 


48 


46 


63 


30 


43 


23 


2 


23 


25 


24 


327 


5th. 


1828-9 


120 


39 


26 


45 


33 


38 


22 


11 


27 


23 


27 


291 


Gth. 


1829-30 


133 


52 


39 


60 


47 


42 


29 


3 


34 


16 


23 


345 


7th. 


1830-31 


133 


57 


46 


78 


57 


37 


25 


4 


23 


38 


17 


382 


8th. 


1831-32 


140 


48 


24 


64 


58 


60 


41 


15 


41 


57 


29 


437 


9lh. 


1832-33 


158 


60 


23 


78 


82 


70 


38 


10 


36 


4!: 


37 


476 


10th. 


1833-31 


201 


75 


64 


109 


73 

482 


89 
497 


41 

277 


49 


44 

228 


6: 

323 


48 
249 


610 
3921 




Totals. 


1444 


596 


490 


730 



N. B. The number in the colitmns of Medical Jurisprudence are those 

in addition to the Medical School. 



Other information with regard to 
the University will be found in the 
General Description of Virginia. 

Warren, P. V. situated on the left 
bank of James river, at the mouth of 
Ballinger's creek, in the southern an- 
gle of Albemarle, 25 miles S. S. W. 
of Charlottesville, 89 miles N. W. by 
W. of Richmond, and 148 from W. 
C. — This village was in a flourish- 
ing condition till the year 1823, when 
it began to decline, and the value of 
property in it has since fallen very 
much; "it was at that time made a de- 
pot by the farmers for their staples, 
Avheat, flour, tobacco, &c. — ^but they 
have since found it more advantageou.s 
to transport their produce to Rich- 
mond, throngh Scottsville. This vil- 
lage is beantifuUy situated, and the 



fertility of the surrounding soil, and 
grandeur of the landscape are objects 
of universal admiration; the salubrity 
of this neighborhood is unsurpassed 
in the U. States — It contains several 
dwelling houses — one free church — 
one common school — two mercantile 
stores — two taverns — and one coop- 
er's-shop — Population 50; of whom 
two are physicians. 

Yancey's Mills, P. O. on the 
Rivanna and Rockfish Gap turnpike 
between Charlottesville and Staunton, 
16 miles from the former, and 24 from 
the latter— 138 ms. S. W. by W. from 
W. C. and 97 from R. — It contains a 
tavern, one mercantile store and a 
blacksmith-shop. — Liber 11/ vieeting- 
house, in the neighborhood, is free for 
all denominations. 



AMEI^IA. 

Amelia was created by the Legislature in 1734, and formed out of part 
of Prince George. It is bounded N. W. by Cumberland, or the Appomat- 



fcASTERN VinrilNIA— 7VMELIA. 



127 



tox; N.by the Apponiatloxor Powliatiin county; N. E. by llic Appomattox, 
or Clu-stiM-licld; S. E. bv Namozine creek, or Dinwiddie; S. byNoUoway; 
and \V. by Prince Edward: — Length from S. E. to N. W. 30 miles, mean 
width 10— area 300 square miles. ^'J'he surface is g-reatly diversified, the 
soil on the hills, poor, and nronerally much worn, on tlie bottoms very fertile. 
It is drained by various creeks which flow to the N. E. into the Appomat- 
tox— Populationin 1820—1 1,106; in 1830, free whites 3,293,— slaves, 7,518, 

free blacks, 2,200 — total, 11,031. — It belon.ixs to the second judicial cir^ 

cuh, andfirst'dislrict. Taxes paid 1832-3, $3,0G3 02— in 1833-4, on lots 
i^38 74— land $1989 25— on 3109 slaves, $777 25—2345 horses, 6140 
76— S studs, $104 00—21 coaches,- $52 50— 6 carryalls, $6 00—11 gigs, 
§3 35;— Total, $3116 85. Amount expended in the education of pool- 
children in 1832, $243 74,— in 1833, $337 G2> 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



AMELIA C. H., P. O. 169 miles 
from W. and 47 from R.— in N. 
Lat. 37° 13' and long. 10° 11' W. of 
Washington; on the main Danville 
road leading to Richmond. It con- 
tains besides the county buildings 
several dwelling houses, one tavern, 
& several mechanics. Population 40. 

Count// Conrtx are held on the 
fourth Thursday in every month; — 
quarterly in March, May, August, 
and November. Judge May holds 
his Circuit Superior Courts of Lau- 
and Chancery on the 17 /A of April 
and September. 

Deatoxville or Thompson''s ta- 
vern, P. O. 52 ms. S. W. of R. and 
174 from W. — on the C4eneto road; 
and at the intersection of the roads 
leading from Petersburgto Farmville, 
' — and from Richmond to Prince Ed- 
ward, — 54 miles W. of Petersburg, 
162 of Farmville, 23 N. E. of Prince 
Edward C. H. and 16 E. of Raine's 
tavern, on the road leading from Pe- 
tersburg to Lynchburg: A road from 
Fredericksburg, also comes in here 
from the N. W. 

Dexxes' p. O. 55 ms. S. W. of R. 
and 177 from W. 

Elk Hill P. O. 64 ms. S. W. of 
R. and 156 from W. 

FixxEY Mills P. O. 52 ms. S. 
W. of R. and 176 from W. 30 ms. 
N. of W. from Petersburg, 8 S. E. of 
Amelia C. H. 7 E. of Dennisvillc, 4 



N. of the line of Nottoway county, 
and 5 W. of Bevil's bridge, across 
the Appomattox — Situated on Beaver 
pond creek, a small but constant stream; 
and one mile N. of Deep creek, — a 
stream large enough to admit batteaux 
navigation for 15 miles, from its junc- 
tion with the Appomattox; the flour 
from Finney mills is carried in wa- 
gons to this stream, thence to the Ap- 
pomattox, thence to Petersburg. — The 
mills take their name from their for- 
mer proprietor; they turn two pair of 
Corn, and the same number of Burr 
stones; there is a cotton-gin in another 
house; and a methodist meeting house 
called the Tabernacle at the spot. 
The mill is capable of grinding from 
20 to 25000 bushels of wheat in the 
ordinary grinding season. 

Hallsville, p. O. 33 ms. S. W. 
of R. and 155 from W. 

Jetersville p. O. 54 ms. S. W. 
of R. and 176 from W. 

LoMBAUDY P. O. 42 ms. S. W. of 
R. and 164 from W. 

Maxboro' p. O. 48 ms. N. W. of 
R. and 170 from W. — situated at the 
intersection of the road leading from 
Richmond to North Carolina, and 
from Petersburg to the west. 

Office Taverx P. O. in the wes- 
tern part of the county, 43 ms. S. W. 
by W. of R. and 165 from W. — on 
the main stage road leading from 
Farmville to Petersburg, and 4 ms. 



128 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— AMHERST. 



N. W. of Amelia a H.— The Clerk's 
Office of the svperior and county 
courts is located in this place;— there 
is also an extensive manufactory of 
wheat machines, ploughs, &c. — and 
in the neighborhood, one Presbyte- 
rian and one Methodist house of wor- 
ship. The population amounts to 50 
persons. 

Painsville p. V. in the western 
part of the county— 46 ms. S. W. by 
W. of R., 168 from W., 12 from Ame- 
lia C. H., 18 from Genito, and 15 from 
Jamestown. Painsville contains 7 
dwelling houses, — one tavern, — one 
mercantile store, one wheelwright, — 
one smiths-shop, — one cabinet maker, 
-—and one free meeting house. A 
Baptist church of about 40 white 
members was established in 1832 near 
the village. There is also a flourish- 
ing Methodist church about three 
miles from the village, and a Presby- 
terian church about five ms. — There 
arc Union Sabbath Schools at these 
churches, and a Female Benevolent 
Society attached to the Baptist church, 
which is auxiliary to the B. Educa- 



tion Society. — This church also con- 
stitutes an Auxiliary Bible Society, 
and contributes also to the Baptist As- 
sociation, and the B. Triennial Con- 
vention of the U. S. The Presbyte- 
rian church has a Tract Society. A 
Temperance Society holds its tneet- 
mgs in Painsville. The country a- 
round is thickly settled, and within 
three miles are two mercantile stores 
and a cotton factory — One attorney and 
three physicians reside in Painsville, 
its whole population is 57, of whom 
32 are whites. 

Wigwam, the residence of the late 
distinguished William B. Giles, 
about 62 ms. S. W. of R. and 150 
from W. — about three miles from the 
Appomattox. The buildings are of 
wood, but prettily and neatly built, 
and convenient, — the situation is itself 
pleasant and retired, but does not com- 
mand a view of much of the sur- 
rounding country — during Mr. Giles' 
life he had a large classical school at 
his residence, provided with excellent 
teachers. 



AMHERST. 

Amherst was created by the Legislature in 1761, from a part of Albe- 
marle. It is bounded S. W. by Bedford county, or James river; S. by 
James river or Campbell county; S. E. by James river, or Campbell and 
Buckingham counties; E. and S. E. by Tye river, or Nelson county; and 
N. E. by Blue Ridge or Rockbridge county. This county is nearly a pa- 
rallelogram, 22 by 19 ms; area 418 sq. ms. — It is enclosed on two sides, the 
S. W. and S. E. by the James river, and entirely drained by the tributaries 
of that stream. The county generally slopes to the South, its elevation 
above the Ocean is from 500 to 800 feet ; — The soil is naturally fertile, and 
of the same dark, rich red, which is found so susceptible of improvement 
in Albemarle, &c. — but the system of Agriculture is bad; and Avhen the 
land is exhausted it is generally turned out; and the deep red gulleys washed 
by the rain fill the traveller Avith feelings of the most gloomy desolation; 
but it is hoped that the James river improvement by rendering transporta- 
tion cheaper will induce the farmers to cultivate in wheat, the lands which 
are now turned out, when too poor for tobacco, and change the appearance 
of the soil. — The scenery of Amherst is beautifully variegated with 
mountain, hill, and river. This county belongs to the twelfth judicial 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— BEDFORD. 



129 



circuit, and sixth district. Population in 1820, 10,483,— in 1830, 12,071.— 
Taxes paid in 1832-3, $2,063 62, — in 1833-4, $3,1 16 85. 

Amount expended in educating poor claildren in 1832, $273 08 — in 1833, 
$259 06. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



AMHERST C. H., P. V. situated 
on the stage road leading from Char- 
lottesville to Lynchburg, 15 ms. from 
the latter, 136 ms. W. from Richmond, 
and 180 from Washington, in N. lat. 
37° 29', long. 2° 12' W. of W.C. 
It contains besides the county build- 
inffs, 14 dwellino- houses, 1 common 
school, 2 taverns, 2 mercantile stores, 
1 tanyard, and several blacksmith- 
shops. — Two attorneys and three re- 
gular physicians reside in this village. 
Population 130. 

County Coii.rfs are belfi on the ?>rd 
Monday in every month; — Quarterly 
in March, June, August, and Not-em- 
ber. 

Judge Thompson holds his Cir- 
cuit Superior Court of Law and 
Chancery on the \st of April and 
September. 

Buffalo Springs P. O. 147 ms. 
W. of R. and 190 from W.— These 
waters are chalybeate, and attract a 
good deal of company in summer. 

Knightsville p. O. 131 ms. from 
R. and 185 from W. 

New Glasgow P. V. 132 ms. W. 
of R. and 175 S. W. of W.— in the 
N. W. part of the county on an ele- 
vated place, 20ms. N. N. E. of Lynch- 



burg. — It contains 21 dwelling houses, 
one free house of worship, 1 academy, 
1 hotel, 4 mercantile stores, 1 tanyard, 
1 Sadler, 1 cabinet maker, 1 wheel- 
wright, and 1 smith-shop. New Glas- 
gow is pleasantly situated in a very 
healthy and picturesque region; — the 
soil around was originally good and 
is susceptible of easy and high im- 
provement. 

Pedlar Mills P. O. 135 ms. W. 
of R. and 198 S. W. of W.— in S. 
W. part of the county, at the junction 
of Horsley's creek a'nd Pedlar river, 
on the north side of that river, and 4^ 
ms. from its junction with the James: 
— It contains a store, a merchant mill, 
a tavern, a tailor-shop, a tanyard, and 
a blacksmith-shop. It has 14 houses 
and a population of 56 persons; one 
of whom is a physician. Pedlar 
river might easily be made navigable 
to the mills. 

Pryors Vale P. O. 141 ms. S. 
W. of R. and 191 from W. 

Rose Mills P. O. 127 ms. from 
R, and 170 S. W. of W. 

Sandridge's p. O. 142 ms. from 
R. and 185 S. W. of W. 

Waugh's Ferry P. O. 142 ms. 
from R. and 205 S. W, of W. 



BEDFORD. 

Bedford was created by the Legislature in 1753, out of a part of Lu- 
nenburo- county. It is bounded E. and S. E. by Campbell county,— S. and 
S W bv Staunton river, branch of Roanoke, separatmg it from Pittsy va- 
nia on the S. and Franklin S. W.— W. and N. W. by the Blue Ridge, 
which separates it from Botetourt; and N. E. by James river, whicii sepa- 
rates it from Amherst.— Length between the James and btaunton 30 mi.es 
mean breadth 22,— and area 660 sq. ms.— lat. from 37° to 37° o2 N. and 
long, from 2° 10' to 2° 50' W. of W. C— This county for the most part 
inclines to the S. E.— The inclination terminating m the Peaks ot Utter in 
17 



130 EASTERN VIRGINIA— BEDFORD. 

the N. W. part of the county; — from these Peaks elevated 4,260 feet above 
the Ocean, Bedford slopes towards her two main boundary streams, the 
James and Roanoke, and has also lesser inclinations towards her two smal- 
ler streams, Goose creek and Otter river. — The soil is generally well adapted 
to farming, equal perhaps to any in Virginia, and had it never been doomed 
to the curse of excessive tobacco cuUure, would not have been surpassed by 
any portion of the state in improvement. — Tobacco has been the principle 
staple; but many are now turning their attention to the improvement of their 
land by clover and plaster, and find them astonishingly successful, and the 
soil capable of high and rapid improvement. — There is a stratum of red 
clay which is almost impervious to water, and gives durability to an im- 
proved soil; — some of the lands on the water-courses are destitute of this 
quality, and their value is diminished by the defect. The face of the country 
is generally uneven and in many places broken, especially the south part, 
from the great western road. The principal streams flowing through the 
county are Otter and Goose creek, the former rises in the mountains about 
the sides and base of the Peaks of Otter ; the head of the south fork of the 
latter rises between the celebrated Peaks, on the road passing through Jen- 
ning's Gap, and half way from the base to the summit; it is a large spring 
of delightful water and very powerful at its source, and is so increased by 
other springs ere it reaches the base of the mountain, that it aflbrds beauti- 
ful shcs for machinery: after uniting with the north fork it forms a consid- 
erable stream, running nearly a south course until it unites Avith Goose 
creek, which rises in the S. W. side of the Peaks, and runs first south and 
then east. It affords many sites for water-works, and many mills are 
erected on it. 

The celebrated Peaks of Otter are situated on the south of the road 
which passes through Jenning's Gap; the county line passes over the nor- 
thern or Flat Top Peak; this Peak was estimated by Mr. Jefferson to be 
fourteen or fifteen feet highest, but it is the southern one which has attracted 
most attention, — its pinnacle being formed of rock piled on rock for forty 
feet. From this the traveller gazes with delight upon the country below, 
studded with farms, diminished by the distance to the appearance of gar- 
dens, and mountain rising above mountain in endless perspective, whilst 
immediately beneath his feet the clouds may be pouring their genial showers 
upon the foot of the mountain. John Randolph of Roayioke, is said to have 
written some pious lines, upon witnessing this majestic and elevating scene. 
The spot has been A'isited also by the eloquent Volneij. — There are two 
other peaks in the same range of mountains, which have not been mentioned 
by travellers or geographers, they are distant five and seven miles from the 
two former, and are probably of equal height; the old hunters say, that the 
most northern one, which is called the Aj)ple Orchard, is the highest of 
all; its name is derived from the appearance of the trees on its top, -which 
resembles an old deserted orchard. The top affords a level of four or five 
acres of very rich soil, and has springs upon it. The other of these ne- 
gleeted Peaks is called the Onion; it has nothing remarkable about it, except 
its height. The soil in the lofty elevations of these mountains is astonish- 
ingly fertile. 

Chalybeate Waters, discovered in the south part of the county, have been 
found to be beneficial in diseases of the skin and debility, but no care being 
taken of them, they arc little known or frequented. 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— BEDFORD. 



131 



There is a cave of some extenl on tlie liead waters of Goose creek, of 
wliicli little is known. 

The timber of Bedford is generally oak, — white, black, red, Spanish, and 
box oak, — there is also much good pine in some sections. — Few hogs, and 
little eat tie is raised for market; there are some fine horses raised, and more 
attention has been lately attracted to this subject. 

There are about thirty good manufaeluring mills in the county, and as 
many saw mills. About six miles of the James river canal, Avhich passes 
through the Blue Ridge, lie in this county. — This county belongs to the 
eighth judicial circuit, and fourth district. Population 1820, 19,305 — ia 
1830, 20,24G— Taxes paid in 1833, $4,321 41— in 1834, on lots, $7G 09— 
land, $2538 50— slaves, (No. 4545,) $1130 25— horses, (No. 4670,) $280 
20— studs, (No. 33,) $496 00— coaches, (No. 31,) $68 40 — carryalls, (No. 
7,) $7 UO— gigs, (No. 20,) $11 25— Total $4,613 19. Amount expended 
in 1833 for education of poor children, $8G1 65. 

Sehool Fund from 30lh Sept. 1833, to \st Oct. 1834. 

Number of school commissioners, - - - - 15 

" common schools attended by poor children, - - 25 

" poor children in the county, - - - - 450 

" " " sent to school, - - - - 330 

Aggregate No. of days' attendance of poor children at school, - 18182 

AA'erage '* " " each poor child " - 55 

Hate of tuition per diem, - - - - - 4 cts. 

Average paid for each poor child, including all expenses, - $2 39 

Expended in 1833, for all expenses, .... $787 84 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Chambless' Store, P. O. 1 59 nis. 
from R. and 237 from W. 

Davis' Mill, P. O. 155 ms. S. W. 
by W. from W. 

" Davis' Store, P. O. 149 ms. from 
R. and 217 from W. 

Dickinson's Store, P.O. 152ms. 
W. of R. and 230 from W. 

Hendricks Store, P.O. IGl ms. 
from R. and 239 S. of W. 

LIBERTY, P. V. and seat of 
justice, is situated on a branch of Ot- 
ter river, 26 ms. S. W. from Lynch- 
burg, 145 ms. S. W. by W. from R. 
and 223 from W.— lat. 37° 17' N.— 
long. 20° 29' W. of W. C.— The 
Lynchburg and Salem turnpike runs 
through the town, which contains be- 
sides the countybuildings, 70 houses; 
— 2 Baptist, and 1 free church, — 1 
masonic hall, — 2 taverns, — 5 mercan- 
tile stores, — 1 tobacco manufactory, — 



2 tanyards, — 3 house-carpenters, — 1 
wheelwright, — 3 tailors, — 2 black- 
smiths, — and 2 turners. — The mail 
arrives and departs fifteen times in a 
week. — Liberty contains 9 attorneys, 
and 4 regular physicians; — whole 
population 350. 

County Courts are held on the 4//t 
Monday in every month; — Quarterly 
in March, May, August, Siwdi Novem- 
ber. 

Judge Daniel holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chancery 
on the tenth of May and October. 

Mersey's, P. O. 170 ms. W. of R. 
and 248 from W. — It contains 5 mer- 
cantile stores, 1 tavern, 2 manufactur- 
ing flour mills, 5 common grist mills, 
2 carding machines, and 3 saw mills. 
— The neighboring soil is good and 
produces well all the staples of the 
middle states. 



132 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— BRUNSWICK. 



Otter Bridge, P. O. 17 ms. S.] 
W. by W. of Lynchburg, 215 ms. S.I 
W. of W. and l'37 from^R. 

OTTER PEAKS, situated on the 
boundary line between Bedford and 
Botetourt, by the road 30 ms. from 
Lynchburg; — These summits are 
4,260 feet above the Atlantic, and are 
the highest Peaks of the Appalachian 
chain, except the White Top peaks 
of the Iron mountain, and some points 
in New Hampshire. — See a descrip- 
tion of these in the preliminary de- 
scription of this county. 

Saint James Church, P. O. 139 
ms. from R. and 217 S. W. of W. 

Tiber, or Goose Creek, P. O. in 
the western part of the county is 10 
ms. W. of Liberty, 233 ms. from W. 
and 155 from R. — situated on the wa- 
ters of a beautiful stream called Goose 



creek, with a fine view of the mag- 
nificent Blue Ridge, and the towering 
Peaks of Otter. It contains 1 dwel- 
ling houses, 1 free house of worship, 
1 Benevolent Society, and 1 manufac- 
turing flour mill, — the principal me- 
chanical pursuits are the blacksmiths, 
tanners, boot and shoe makers, wagon 
jmakers, and brick layers. The soil 
in the neighborhood is fertile, produc- 
ing Avheat, corn, buckwheat, tobacco, 
oats, hemp, and flax, in abundance. — 
Grazing is also carried on by the far- 
mers in the neighborhood, and no soil 
can be better adapted to grass and clo- 
ver. — Tiber has 1 physician, and a 
population of 70 souls. 

Wharton's Mills, P. O. 154 ms. 
from R. and 227 S. W. of W. 

White Oak Grove, P. O. 149 
ms. from R. and 227 from W. 



BRUNSWICK. 

Brunswick was created by the Legislature in 1720, from a portion of 
Surry and Isle of AVight. It "is bounded N. W. and N. by Lunenburg, — 
W. by Mecklenburg,— N. E. by NoUoway river, which separates it from 
Dinvv'iddie, — E. by nreensvillp, — S. by Southampton co. of N. Carolina, 
and S. W. by Warren co. of the same state. It is nearly a square, of 26 
miles on each side; area 676 sq. miles: extendinar in lat. from 36° 32' N. 
to 36° 56' N., and in long, from 0° 39', to 1° 04' W. of W.C. The S. W. 
angle touches Roanoke, and a small section is drained S. into that stream; 
but the body of the county is comprised in the vallies of Meherrin and Not- 
toway rivers, and declines to the east. — Population 1820 — 16,687 — in 1830 
— 15,767. — Brunswick belongs to the second judicial circuit, and first dis- 
trict.— Tax paid in 1833, $3618 91— in 1834, $3751 56.— Amount ex- 
pended in educating poor children in 1832, no report — in 1833, $417 65. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Diamond Grove, P. O. 86 ms. S. 
S. W. of R. and 179 from W.— on 
the Meherrin river and main stage 
road from Petersburg, Va.,to Charles- 
ton, S. C, 7 ms. S. o^ LawrencRvillc : 
situated in a rich and enterprising 
neighborhood. 

Gholsonville, p. V. on the left 
bank of Meherrin river, 75 ms. S. S. 
W. of R. and 197 from W.— one mile 



S. of hnwrencemlle and on the main 
road leading S. from Petersburg — it 
contains 5 dwelling houses, one Me- 
thodist house of worship, 1 coach 
manufactory, and a blacksmith-shop. 
— It has one physician, and a popula- 
tion of 60 persons. 

Harrisville, p. O. 46 ms. from 
R. and 168 from W. 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— BUCKIiNGH AM. 



133 



JoNESBORo', P. O. 92 ms. S. of R. 
and 194 from W. 

LAWRENCEVILLE, P. V. and 
county seat, C9 ms. W. of S. from 
Richmond, and 191 from Washing- 
ton— lat. 36° 48' N., and long. 0" 50' 
W. of W. C. — Lawrenceville is a 
beautiful and wealthj^ little upland 
village, on a branch of the Meherrin 
river, containing a handsome court- 
house, clerk's office, and jail, an ele- 
gant masonic hall, and an Episcopal 
church, 25 neat dwelling houses, 1 
common school, 1 temperance and 1 
missionary society, 4 mercantile stores, 

2 taverns, 2 lanyards, 1 saddler, 1 
boot and shoe factorj', 2 tailors, and 

3 smith-shops. Population 350; of 
whom 4 are attorneys, and 1 a physi- 
cian. 

County Courts are held on the At/i 
Mo7iday in every montli ; — Quarterly 
in March, May, August, B.nd Novem- 
ber. 

Judge May holds his Circuit Su- 
perior Court of Law and Chancery 
on the 26^/i of Apriland September. 

Lewisville, p. V. 78 ms. S. S. 
W. from R. and 200 from W.— situat- 
ed on Gee's road, one mile N. W. of 
Gee's bridge over the Meherrin river, 
and near the dividing line of Lunen- 
burg, Brunswick, and Mecklenburg; 
28 miles from Randolph Macon Col- 
lege, and 9 from Lawrenceville. — It 



contains 13 dwelling houses, 1 mer- 
cantile store, 1 tailor, and 1 blackshith. 
Population 33. There arc several 
Methodist houses of worship in the 
immediate neighborhood. The coun- 
try is healthy, and well settled with 
industrious and wealthy farmers; the 
land is strong and well watered, and 
produces all the staple articles of the 
state. 

Kennedy, P. O. 6G ms. S. S. W. 
of R. and 188 from W. 

Percivals, p. O. 67 ms. S. W. of 
R. and 186 from W. 

Sturgeonville, p. V. 60 ms. S. 
S. W. of R. and 182 from W.— This 
place takes its name from St^irgcon 
creek, which runs near it. — It is situ- 
ated in the N. E. part of the county, 
in a tolerably thickly settled neigh- 
borhood. The land once good, is 
now much worn out, but the inhabi- 
tants are A'Cealthy and hospitable; 
wheat and tobacco are the staples. — 
There are in the neighborhood of the 
P. O., 1 Methodist, and 1 Presbyte- 
rian house of worship, 1 Academy, 
1 female school, 2 general stores, 1 
blacksmith, 2 boot and shoe makers, 
1 tanyard, and a house of entertain- 
ment. 

White Plains, P. O. 94 ms. S. 
S. AV. of R. and 205 from W.— situ- 
ated on the great southern road; 80 
ms. N. of Raleigh, N. C. 



BUCKINGHAM. 

Buckingham was created by the Legislature in 1761, and formed out 
of part of Albemarle county. — It is bounded on the N. E. — N. — N. W. — 
and W. by the James river," which separates it from Fluvanna, Albemarle, 
Nelson, and Amherst; S. W. by Campbell; S. by the Appomattox, which 
separates it from Piince Edward; and E. by Cumberland. Length 34 
miles, mean breadth, 24 — area 816 sq. miles; — it extends in lat. from 37° 
13' to 37^ 45' N. and in long, from 1° 12' to 1° 55' W. from W. C. 

The head waters of the Appomattox flow along the S. border of this 
county; but its general inclination is N. towards the James, which forms 
about half of its^ entire outline. The only mountains in Buckingham are 
Willis's mountain^ a small range near its eastern border, and another in the 
S. W. part near James river, called Fergusons mountain; the remainder of 



134 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— BUCKINGHAM. 



the county is generally level. Willis'' s river rises in the S. part ot the 
county — flows in an eastern direction, enters Cumberland, then turns to the 
N. E. and empties into the James, 40 miles above Richmond; it is naviga- 
ble 65 miles Irom its mouth, — a remarkable circumstance for a river of its 
length; — its channel rather resembles a canal than a river. Slate river 
rises in the S. part of this county, flows to the N. E. and empties into the 
James 3 miles above New Canton, and 63 above Richmond. — Buckingham 
is by no means wealthy in proportion to its extent, — a large portion of it is 
barren and uninhabited; on the borders of the watercourses the soil is fer- 
tile, producing well all the staples, tobacco, wheat, corn, &c. — the interven- 
ing ridges are extremely sterile and desolate. — The county contains 7 manu- 
facturing flour mills, capable of grinding from 200 to 250,000 bushels of 
wheat annually, 5 wool-carding establishments, 8 tanyards, and 40 grist 
mills. — Slate is found in abundance at the mouth of Slate river. — Iron-ore 
is found near New Canton. — Gold is found in many places, and one mine 
is said to be the richest in America. A Mineral Spring has been disco- 
vered ten miles S. of New Canton, which is known as the Physic Spring, 
the waters of Avhich have not been analyzed, bui are thought by physicians 
acquainted with its qualities, to be useful in many diseases, especially those 
of a chronic nature. — Buckingham belongs to the eighth judicial circuit, 
and fourth district. Population 1820, 17,582 — in 1830, 18,351. Taxes in 
1832-3, $5053 25— 1833-4, on lots, $67 06— land, $2937 55— on 5817 
slaves, $1454 25— 3781 horses, $226 86— 13 studs, $188 00— 88 coaches, 
$265 75 — 13 carryalls, $13 00 — 6 gigs, $40 40. — Total $5132 87. 
Amount expended in educating poor children in 1832, $498 90 — in 1833» 
$421 24. 



TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST-OFFICES, &c. 



Diana Mills, P. O. 75 m's. W.l 
of R., and 160 from W. — situated on 
Slate river, 5^ m's. above its junction 
with the James, and 5 above Virginia 
Mills. It contains 1 dwelling house, 
and 3 stores which do a good busi- 
ness. Slate river is a constant stream, 
portions of which run through a fine 
wheat and tobacco country. Popu- 
lation at Diana Mills 12. 

DitiGUiDsviLLE, or B€7it CrecJc, 
P. V. 196 m's. S. W. by W. of W. 
and 112 from R., situated in the S. 
W. part of the county at the mouth of 
Bent Creek on James river. A 
neat village Avith considerable trade, 
and containing 16 dwelling houses, 
3 general stores, 2 groceries, a tav- 
ern, a house of private entertainment, 
and a tobacco warehouse ; — at the 
latter were formerly inspected from 8 
to 1200 hogsheads of tobacco annual- 
ly, and it is yet much used as a place 



of deposite by the planters, prior to 
sending their tobacco to Richmond. 
The mechanics of the place are a 
tanner, saddler, wheelwright, black- 
smith, cabinet maker, tailor, brick- 
layer, and stone mason : there are in 
the neighbourhood 2 extensive man- 
ufacturing mills, a grist and a saw 
mill; — from 20 to 30,000 bushels of 
wheat are annually purchased in the 
village. — A horse mail arrives thrice 
a week. Population 132, 1 of whom 
is a physician. 

Eldridges, p. O. 79 m's. W. of 
R., and 154 from W. 

Flood's P. O. 180 m's. S. W. of 
W., and 96 W. of R. 

MAYSVILLE, P. V. and County 
Seat, 87 m's. W. of R., and 162 from 
W.— in lat. 37° 22' N., and long 1° 
32' W. of W. C , situated near the 
centre of the county on Slate Creek, 
35° N. of Lynchburg. It contains 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— BUCKINGHAM. 



135 



bcsiflcs the county buildings, about 
50 dwelling houses, 1 Free church, 
and 1 Presbyterian, 1 female acade- 
my, and 2 elementary schools for 
boys, 4 mercantile stores, 1 apotheca- 
ries shop, and 3 taverns; — the me- 
chanics arc 1 fanner, 2 saddlers, 2 
boot and shoe manufacturers, 1 silver 
smith and watch maker, 1 milliner 
and mantua maker, 2 wagon makers, 
2 cabinet makers, 3 tailors, 1 tin 
plate worker, and 1 miller. There 
are 5 arrivals of the mail in each 
Aveek. Maj^sville contains 5 resident 
attorneys, and 3 regular physicians. 
Population 300. 

County Courts, arc held on the 
2d Monday in every month ; Quar- 
terly in March, May, August and 
Notembcr. Judge Daniel holds 
his Circuit Superior Court of Law 
and Chancery on the lO^A of August, 
and September. 

New Canton, P. V. in the north- 
ern part of the county, 63 m's. W of 
R., and 138 from W., situated at the 
mouth of Slate Creek, on an elevated 
bank about a fourth of a mile from 
James river, commanding a beautiful 
perspective view down the river. It 
Avas once a place of considerable 
trade, but has been for sometime ra- 
pidly declining. It contains 36 dwel- 
ling houses, 3 mercantile stores, 1 
tavern, 1 f^our manufacturing mill, 
1 tanyard, and 1 saddler. A Free 
house of ICO r ship is situated a mile S. 
of New Canton; and 4 m's. W. the 
Virginia Mills,hy which large quan- 
tities of flour are manufactured, — they 
are situated on Slate river, on which 
several valuable slate quarries are 
opened. An iron foundry has lately 
been opened at New Canton, by which 
is manufactured all qualities of iron. 

Immediately on Slate river the 
country is hilly, but soon becomes 
very level ; — the borders of the river 
are very fertile, but the level country 



beyond the hills extremely sterile, 
except on the flats of creeks. New 
Canton has 1 attorney, and 1 physi- 
cian. Population 50. 

New Store, P. O. 81 m*s. from 
R., and 167 S. W. from W. 

Oakville, p. V. in the S. W. part 
of the country, 49 m's. S. W. by W. 
of New Canton, 103 W. of R., and 
187 W. of W., situated at the inter- 
section of the roads leading from 
Bent creek, to Prince Edward C. H. 
and from Lynchburg to Stone Wall 
Mills, 2| m's. from the line of Camp- 
bell Co. It contains but 2 dwelling 
houses, and a store selling about 
$10,000 worth of goods annually. 

The land in the immediate neigh- 
bourhood of Oakville is sterile but 
level, the surrounding country is more 
fertile, and well adapted to the staples 
of the state. Much tobacco, was 
formerly raised in this section of 
country, but the planters are turning 
their attention more to the cultivation 
of the other staples, and to improving 
their land by clover, plaster, &c. 
There is great variety in the soil, 
some being dark and stony, some red, 
and some gray, — the former is most 
productive. 

Physic Spring, P. O. 67 m's. W, 
of R. and 153 from W. 

Stone Wall Mills, P. O. in the 
S. W. part of the Co., 108 m's. S. W. 
of R., and 102 from W., situated on 
James river, 15 m's. below Lynch- 
burg. It contains 2 dwelling houses, 
1 manufacturing mill, 2 mercantile 
stores, 1 tailor, 1 shoemaker, and 1 
blacksmith. Located in a convenient 
place for sending produce to market 
by water ; and surrounded by a 
healthy and wealthy neighbourhood. 
Population 20. 

Warren, Ferry, and P. O. ST 
m's. W of R. and" 172 from W.— in 
the W. part of the Co., 10 m's. W. of 
the C. H. 



136 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— CAMPBELL, 



CAMPBELL.. 

Campbell was created by the Legislature in 1784, from a portion of 
Bedford. It is bounded S. by Staunton, branch of Roanoke, which sepa- 
rates it from Pittsylvania and Halifax, W. by Bedford, N. by James river 
which separates it from Amherst, S. E. by Buckingham and Prince Ed- 
ward, and E. by Charlotte. Campbell approximates to a square of 24 m's. 
on each side, with an area of 576 sq. m's., and extends in lat. from 37° to 
37° 26' N. and long, from 1° 46' to 2°22 'W. of W. C. There are a few 
small mountains in Campbell :^both its bounding rivers the Staunton and 
James are navigable for boats far above its limits ; thus opening communis 
cation with Chesapeake bay and Albemarle sound. The surface is much 
broken, but' productive in grain, fruit, tobacco, pasturage, &c. Population 
including the town of Lynchburg in 1820—16,570, in 1830—20,350. 
Campbell belongs to the eighth judicial circuit, and fourth district. Taxes 
paid in 1833, |6682 53—1834, on lots, $1666 74— land, $3093 82— 
5128 slaves, $1282—3589 horses, $215 34—16 studs, $210 00—88 
coaches, $167 10—26 Carryalls, $26 50—57 gigs, $35 60.— Total, 
$6697 10. Amount expended in educating poor children in 1832, 
$244 57— in 1833, $165 03. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST-OFFICES, &c. 



Arnoldston, p. V. 219 m's. S. 
W. from W., and 141 from R., situ- 
ated at the junction of Otter river 
with Staunton, on the main southern 
road — 20 m's. from Lj'nchburg, and 
25 from the- Peak's of Otter, which 
with several other picturesque moun- 
tains are in view. The country 
around is fertile, rich, well watered, 
thickly settled and healthy. The vil- 
lage contains several dwelling houses, 
1 mercantile store, 1 Avheelwright, 
and a blacksmith shop, Avith various 
other mechanics. There are five 
grist and saw mills from 2 to 4 m's. 
distant: these mills are surroiinded 
Avhh fine timber for building, &c. 
Population of Arnoldston 15. 

Brookneal, p. V. 162 m's. S. W. 
by W. of R. and 240 irom W., situ- 
ated in the S. E. part of the county 
on a beautiful eminence on the north 
bank of Staunton river, opposite the 
Seven Islands, a little above the junc- 
tion of Big Falling river, Avith Staun- 
ton riA'er. It contains 21 houses — 10 
of Avhich are dvA-elling houses, 2 mer- 
cantile stores, 1 Baptist house of Avor- 
ship, 1 tavern, tan yard, saddler, tail 



or, boot and shoe factory, tobacco fac- 
tory, and 2 blacksmith shops; in the 
vicinity. On Big Falling river is a 
manufacturing mill. Population 109, 
of whom 61 are Avhites,and 48 blacks, 
and 1 a physician. The falls at this 
place and for some miles above are 
very considerable, on both rivers ; and 
fully adequate to the moA'ement of any 
machinery Avhatever. The Staunton 
is the dividing line of Campbell 
and Halifax, and has at this place a 
ferry, and on the opposite side a ta- 
vern. For some miles aboA^e Brook- 
neal there is A^ery little fiat land on 
Staunton river, the hills Avhich abound 
with fine building rock, running to 
the Avaters edge; but at Brookneal 
the flat land becomes Avider and con- 
tinues to Aviden for miles beloAV. 
These flats are A-ery fertile, producing 
most abundant crops of Avheat, corn, 
oats and tobacco; and some parts also 
are Avell adapted to clover and grass. 
The uplands are of common quality, 
and abound Avith good oak, and pine 
timber. There are seA-eral fine beds 
of soap stone, and iron ore in this A-i- 
cinity. 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— CAMPBELL 



137 



CAMPBELL C. H., P. O. 210( LYNCHBURG. The town of 
m's. from W., 133 from R. and 121 Lynchburg is situated on the S. or 
m's. S. of Lynchhuro:. Besides the right bank of James river, in the N. 
ordinary county buildings it contains VV. corner of the county of Campbell, 



12 dwelling houses, 2 taverns, 1 
classical and 1 common school, 2 
mercantile stores, 1 tanyard and seve- 
ral mechanics. The public buildings 
are large, neat and commodious, and 
the village rapidly improving. The 
mails arrive and depart 3 times a 
week. The population is from 90 to 
100; of whom 3 are attorneys and 1 a 
physician. 

County Courts, are held on the 2d 
Mondai) in every month: — Quarterly 
in March, June, August, and Novem- 
ber. Judge Daniel holds his Cir- 
cuit Superior Court of Law and 
Chancery on the 2&th of April and 
September. 

Concord, P. O. 106 m's W. of R. 
and 192 from W., 12 m's, from Camp- 
bell C. H., and 13 from Lynchburg. 
Concord is the name of a small sec- 
tion of country in which the P. O. is 
located, and derives its name from a 



120 m's. W. from R. and 198 ms. 
S. W. from W. Its lat. is 37° 36' 
N. and its long. 79° 22' W. from 
Greenwich. 

The river in front of the town is 
about 200 yards Avide, and flows to 
the S. E., giving the same direction 
to the principal streets. The naviga- 
tion is difncult, the river being ob- 
structed by shoals, rocks and rapids, 
throughout a considerable part of its 
course above tide-water, and admitting 
only the use of batteaux carrying 
about 5 tons. Their form is peculiar 
and excellent. 

The river is crossed in front of the 
centre of the town, by a plain wooden 
bridge, from which, and in the same 
direction. Water st. leads through the 
middle of the town, crossing the other 
streets at rif^hi angles. 

On the N. Vv. side, the town is 
limited by the abrupt bank of Black 



meeting house in the vicinity. Thej Water creek, Avhich flowing N. E. en- 
country around is fertile and thickly 
settled, and within 2 m's. of the P. 6. 
are 3 houses of public worship — 
Presbyterian, Baptist and Methodist. 

Falling Bridge, P. O. 122 m's. 
S. W. by W. of R. and 203 from W. 
in the S. E. part of the count}-, 20 
m's. S. E. of Lynchburg. 

Flat Creek, P. O. 129 m's. S. 
W. by W. of R., and 207 miles 



ters James river a little above the 
bridge. The river banks on the 
N. E. side are broken, precipitant 
and elevated; presenting, in connec- 
tion with the distant view of the Blue 
Ridge and the Peaks of Otter, a scen- 
ery which has been universally ad- 
mired for its beauty and boldness. 

In some situations, the banks of the 
river disclose strata of earth in a man- 
ner highly interesting and instructive 

Lynch- 



from W. _ . 

Greeniiill, p. O. 152 m's. from to the geological student. 
R., and 230 from W. Iburg stands in a primitive region, 

Leesville, p. V. 147 m's. S. W. abounding in several varieties of the 
by W. of R., and 225 from W., situ- j granitic rocks. Mica slate, horn- 
ated at the junction of Staunton river blende, chlorites, quartz, and various 
and Goose creek. It contains 20 [ores of iron, are often met with; and 



dwelling houses, 2 mercantile stores, 
a tavern, tobacco factory and ware- 
house, manufacturing flour mill, 
hemp and wool carding machine and 



among the rarer minerals, lithomarge, 
an oxide of titanium, cyenhe, asbestos, 
(fcc. Gold, in small quantities, has 
been found in the neighbourhood. 



cotton gm, 2 tanyards, a tailor, 3 1 The quarries produce a compact mica 
blacksmiths and 2^boot and shoe fac- slate, capable of being wrought easily 
Population 65 ; of whom 1 is : with the chisel into blocks, havmg 



tones. 



a physician. 



18 



138 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— CAMPBELL, 



the closest resemblance to granite, and 
affording a building material highly 
valuable, but as yet too little appre- 
ciated. 

The streets parallel to the river, 
which have been more or less built 
upon, are 10 in number. Of these, 
the 2d or "Main street" is the princi- 
pal. Almost all the shops and stores 
of the town are situated on this street ; 
and for the distance of about three 
quarters of a mile, it presents continu- 
ous rows of tolerably v^-ell built 
houses. Main st. together with 3d, 
(the next in order, proceeding from 
the river,) occupies a bench on the 
river bank, at an elevation of about 
125 feet; while 4th st. is nearly 100 
feet higher; lying only a little below 
the common level of the country. 
These streets are crossed at right 
angles by 10 or 12 alleys, having 
Water st. in the middle, which be- 
tween 3d and 4th streets, is too pre- 
cipitous for the use of carriages of any 
kind. 

The number of houses is between 
8 and 900. The court house, market 
house, and other public buildings, ex- 
cepting a substantial stone jail, are in 
a style of architecture which does no 
credit to the place. The principal 
hotels are the Franklin and the 
Union, on Main St., and the Wash- 
ington on 3d St. Several of the pri- 
vate dwellings would be considered 
ornamental to any city. 

The churches, in the order of their 
erection, are the Methodist Episcopal, 
the 1st Presbyterian, the 1st Baptist 
the Protestant Episcopal Church of 
St. Paul's, the 2d Baptist, the Metho- 
dist Protestant, the 2d Presbyterian, 
and a Friend's meeting house in the 
vicinity of the town. These build- 
ings, 5 of which stand on 3d st. are 
mostly quite plain; 1 or 2 only having 
any pretensions to architectural pro- 
priety or ornament. 

Among the mechanics of Lynch- 
burg are found — distributed in the 
usual proportions of an inland town, 



bakers, blacksmiths, cabinet maker.*, 
carpenters, carriage makers, chair 
makers, coopers, coppersmiths, gun 
smiths, hatters, masons, painters, print- 
ers, rope makers, saddlers, shoema- 
kers, silversmiths, tallow chandlers, 
tanners, tailors, tinners, turners, to- 
bacconists, &c. 

The principal manufacturing es- 
tablishments within the town, are 
a large and excellent flour mill and a 
saw mill, on Black Water creek, with 
a number of others in the neighbour- 
hood, a carding machine on a rivulet 
at the lower end of the town, several 
brick yards, 2 extensive tanyards, and 
a good many tobacco factories, for 
stemming, manufacturing, &c. These 
factories give employment to many 
hundred hands. A cotton factory on 
the right bank of Black Water creek, 
erected by the Lynchburg Manufac- 
turing Company Avith a capital of 
^100,000, and intended to run 2-500 
spindles, and give employment to 
about ?0 persons, is just getting into 
operation. This is the first attempt 
of any importance to carry on the cot- 
ton manufacture in S. W. Virginia ; 
the success of the enterprise is confi- 
dently anticipated, and the hope is 
cherished that other capitalists may 
be induced to embark in similar un- 
dertakings among us, until at least 
the wants of the country depending 
upon Lynchburg are supplied Avith 
domestic fabrics of our own produc- 
tion. 

The L}mchburg Water Works, for 
furnishing the town with an unfailing 
supply of pure and wholesome water, 
were constructed in 1828-29, under 
the direction of Albert Stein, esq. En- 
gineer, at an expense of $50,000. 
The height — unprecedented in this 
country — to which it was necessary 
to raise the water, renders this one 
of the most interesting midertakings 
of the kind in the United States. 

An arm of the James, formed by an 
island about 2 miles in length, is 
crossed, a short distance above the 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— CAMPBELL. 



J 30 



limits of \\\c corporation, liy a dram 10 
foet high. A eanal of half a mile in 
leng-th convoys the water to the pump 
house on the river bank, at the foot of 
3rd alley. A double forcing pump 
on the plan of De la Hire, worked 
by a largo breast wheel, impels the 
water through the ascending pipe 
which is 200 feet long, to a reservoir 
containing 400,000 gallons, situated 
between 4th and Sth streets, and at 
the clcvalion of 240 feet above the 
level of the river. Fire plugs are 
connected with the distributing pipes 
at every intersection of the alleys with 
2nd and 3rd streets, and afford an ad- 
mirable security against the danger 
of fire. The height of the reseiwoir, 
above these streets (the only ones 
compactly built,) gives a jet of water 
by means of hose pipes, of from 60 to 
80 feet elevation, and throws it, in 
bold and continuous streams, over the 
roofs of the highest houses. The 
water is extensively taken by the in- 
habitants, and the rents are already 
accumulating a sinking fund for li- 
quidating the debt incurred in con- 
structing these valuable works. 

The water power created by the 
dam for the water works, is amply 
sufficient for working a large addi- 
tional amount of machinery, and waits 
only for a clearer perception by cap- 
italists of the manufacturing advan- 
tages of this town, to be brought into 
extensive use. The cheapness of la- 
bour, the abundance of provisions, 
and the extent and wealth of the 
country looking this way for its sup- 
plies of domestic as well as of foreign 
goods, unite with the vast water pow- 
er actually prepared and ready for any 
application, in inviting the attention of 
men of capital and enterpris 
important subject. 

Lynchburg has suffered much from 
the want of good roads, by which the 
products of the surrounding country 
might bo conveyed to her market. 
The recent improvements, however, 
are important. The road to Char- 



lottesville, distant 70 m's. N. E. has 
been skilfully graduated; and in spite 
of an uncommonly broken country, 
is now traversed with expedition and 
ease. The Richmond road is now 
being turnpiked to Chilton's, 15 m's. 
from Lynchburg — the only part of 
the route that particularly required 
this mode of improvement. An ex- 
cellent turnpike is now nearly com- 
pleted fi'om this place to Lexington, 
by the way of the Blue Ridge Canal 
on James river. This road passes^ 
near the Natural Bridge, 30 m's. from 
Lynchburg. A similar road having 
already been opened westward from 
Lexington to Covington, the most di- 
rect route from the lower country to 
the Virginia Springs, will now be 
found to lead through Lynchburg. 
The Lynchburg and eastern turnpike, 
running S. W. through New London 
and Liberty, is now completed half 
the distance. This is an expensive 
macadimised road. It enters Lynch- 
burg at the lower end of the town ; to 
accommodate the wants of the other 
end, an arm has been constructed 
from Cocke, or West street, (the north- 
ernmost alley,) intersecting the turn- 
pike a mile and a half from town. 

The " Piedmont road," by Char- 
lottesville, Lynchburg, Danville, Sa- 
lem, N. C, &c. having lately been 
made the route for the great southern 
mail, the public at large have addi- 
tional inducements for improving the 
portion of it between Lynchburg and 
Danville, A good thoroughfare in 
this direction would prove an impor- 
tant accession to the commercial fa- 
cilites ol this town. 

A mail coach passes to and from 
Richmond 3 times a week; the line 
to this Icontinues westward to Lewisburg in 
Greenbriar county, passing by Liber- 
ty in Bedford county, Fincastle in 
Botetourt county, and the Sweet and 
White Sulphur Springs, intersecting 
the line from Richmond by way of 
Charlottesville at the latter place. 
Just bevond the Blue Ridge, abranch 



140 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— CAMPBELL, 



Company," and a large amount of 
stock taken. Circumstances caused 
the abandonment of that undertaking; 
3'et so important is it for Lynchburg 
to secure its S. W. trade, to the great- 
est extent, that the connection of the 
waters of the Tennessee with the 
James river at this place, is an enter- 
prise that ought never to be lost sight 
of. One of the richest sections of the 
Union will find this its most direct 
route to the Atlantic markets. 

The staple article of trade in Lynch- 
burg is tobacco ; for the inspection 
and storage of which there are in dif- 
ferent parts of the town, 7 large ware- 
houses. So fertile and productive 
were — and in a measure, still are — 
the tobacco lands of the country trad- 
ing to Lynchburg, that in regard to 
the quantity inspected, the place has 
long been the largest tobacco market 
in the world. 



of this line extends to Salem, where 
it joins the line passing up the Valley 
from Staunton. &c. Another mail 
coach passes between this place and 
Washington city, by way of Char- 
lottesville 3 times a v/eek; this line 
extends on south into Georgia. 

The commercial relations of Lynch- 
burg are extensive, embracing a large 
tract of country to the south and west. 
Exclusive of an important section of 
Virginia, the N. W. parts of North 
Carolina, and many counties in east 
Tennessee communicate with the At- 
lantic ports through this town. The 
recent arrangements for carrying 
through the long contemplated im- 
provements connecting the James and 
Kanawha rivers, are likely to affect 
the trade and prosperity of the place : 
but whether prosperously or adverse- 
ly, time must develope. In the year 
1832, a charter was obtained for "the 
Lynchburg and New River Rail Road 

The following is a tabular view of the statistics of the Tobacco Trade of 
Lynchburg for the last 12 years, including a statement of the inspec- 
tions at Richmond and Petersburg: 



For the year ending 


LYNCHBURG. 


RICHMOND. 


PETERSBURG. 


Oct. 1st, 


Passed. ] 


[lefused. 


Passed. 


Refused. 


Passed. 


lefused 


1822, 


10185 


1750 


7314 


2393 


13133 


4527 


1823, 


14081 


3057 


7716 


4561 


10628 


3352 


1824, 


12457 


1790 


8216 


3808 


8710 


2309 


1825, 


14817 


1957 


9254 


3041 


5866 


2067 


1826, 


11506 


1649 


8669 


3070 


1479 


1482 


1827. 


16127 


2465 


11142 


5087 


2096 


3346 


1828, 


13285 


2621 


10196 


7407 


1322 


4025 


1829, 


10981 


1946 


7970 


4626 


1201 


2407 


1830, 


11926 


3539 


8360 


7007 


2120 


4515 


1831, 


11842 


3743 


8939 


7419 


2002 


4634 


1832, 


9906 


3909 


5639 


5494 


1158 


3804 


1833, 


7957 


2173 


4868 


4617 


2877 


3605 



With the exhaustion of the rich 
soils that have heretofore produced 
that staple, the amount of tobacco 
grown, and the profits of the busi- 
ness, must gradually diminish. Ma- 
ny intelligent planters, foreseeing the 
inevitable course of things, are by de- 
grees abandoning the culture of the 
plant, and giving an increased atten- 



tion to the growing of wheat and the 
improvement of their overcropped 
lands. There is not in the Union a 
soil superior to theirs if properly man- 
aged. Their success in clover and 
wheat will animate the spirit of agri- 
cultural improvement, check the tide 
of emigration, and by furnishing in- 
creased quantities of merchantable 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— CAiMPBELL. 



141 



proJuce, aflorJ the surest gimrmitee 
J'or tlie penuauent prosperity of tlieir 
market town. 

The Lynchburg branch of the 
Bank of Virg-inia has a capital of 
$300,000, and that of the Farmers' 
Bank of Virginia, a capital of $ 



There are also two Savings 



Banks, paying interest on deposites 
The beneficial effects of these admi- 
rable institutions are widely felt. 

The most important Benevolent 
Societies of Lynchburg are, a Bible 
Society, auxiliary to the American 
Bible Society, instituted in the year 
1815; — a Colonization Society, insti- 
tuted in 182G, which has been instru-lof the latter. 



junction with Staunton river. It con- 
tains 20 dwelling houses, 2 mercan- 
tile stores, 1 manufacturing (lour mill, 
a tanyard, and various mechanics. 
Seneca creek has lately been improved 
by tlie Roanoke Company/, and boats 
can now come up to the mill. Popu- 
ation 50. 

Moueman's p. O. 221 m's. from 
W., and 143 from R. 

New London, P. V. near the W. 
border of Campbell, 209 m's. from 
W. and 131 from R. New London 
is an incorporated town, situated on the 
Lynchburg and Salem turnpike, 1 1 
m's. S. W. of the former, and 50 E. 
It contains 25 dwelling 



mental in sending out many people of 
color as colonists to Liberia, — and a 
numerous and influential Temperance 
Society. 

Lynchburg has no incorporated 
seminary of learning. The business 
of education is left entirely to indi- 
vidual enterprise. There is a good 
classical and mathematical school, se- 
veral schools for both sexes, and others 

for young ladies exclusively of 

which one is furnished with an exten- 
sive and costly Philosophical Appa- 
ratus. 

The town labors under the reproach 
of having no public library. 

In addition to the " Lynchburg Vir- 
ginian," a semi- weekly paper of long 
standing, another, also semi-weekly, 
has lately been established. 

The town was established in the 
year 1786, but so slow was its pro- 
gress that in 1793, it contained but 
five houses. The charter of incorpo- 
ration was obtained in 1805. Popu- 
lation in 1830, 4,630, including 12 
resident attorneys, and 15 practising 
physicians. 

Marysville, P. V. 147 m's. S. 
W. by W. of R., and 225 from W., 
situated in the S. part of the county, 
20 m's. S. W. of Lynchburg, and 15 
m's. S. of Campbell C. //., in a thick- 
ly settled and wealthy neighbourhood, 
on Seneca creek, a mile above its 



houses, 2 mercantile stores, 2 taverns, 
and 1 handsome Methodist meeting 
house, a rope walk, blacksmith shop, 
wheelwright, tanyard, and 2 saddlers. 
The New London Academy is situ- 
ated a mile W. of the town. At this in- 
stitution a student may be prepared to 
enter any of the colleges or Univer- 
sities with credit. There were in 
1834, 50 pupils: — the buildings con- 
sist of a handsome and commodious 
Academy, a presidents' house, and a 
large brick church well enclosed. 
The Bedford and Campbell Agricul- 
tural Society, holds its meetings at 
New London. There is a merchant 
mill on Buffalo creek, about half a 
mile west of the town, and another 
about the same distance south, both 
on a very extensive scale. Popula- 
tion 100. 

New London was founded about the 
year 1750, and about the time of the 
American revolution contained per- 
haps thrice its present number of in- 
hal)itants. There was then establish- 
ed at this place a United States armo- 
ry, and its artisans, which have since 
been removed to Harpers Ferry: — 
Fiv^e or six Scotch merchants, who 
were largely engaged in business 
about the commencement of the revo- 
lution, refused to take the oath of alle- 
giance, broke up their establishments, 
and left the country. These circum- 
i 



142 



EASTERN VIRC4INIA— CAROLINE. 



stances combining with the establish- 
ment of Lynchburg so near it on 
James river, have given a shock to 
the prosperity of the town from which 
it cannot recover. 

Under the old disirict system the 
Superior Court was held at New 
London. 

RED HILL, situated in the S. E. 
part of the county, on the borders ofl 



this county and Charlotte, about three- 
miles below Brookneal, on the Staun- 
ton river — The residence of PAT- 
RICK HENRY, and the burial 
place of himself and his lady. 

Reedy Spring, P. O. 110 ms. 
from R. and 196 S. W. of W. 

Yellow Branch, P. O. 135 ras. 
S. W. of R, and 213 from W. 



CAROLINE. 

Caroline was created by the House of Burgesses, in February, IT'S?, 
(in the language of the act) "on the heads of Essex, King and Queen, and 
King William." — The first court was held under a commission from Go- 
vernor Gooch, in May 1728. — It is bounded N. by the Rappahannock 
which separates it from King George, N. W. by same river separating it 
from Stafford, — N. E. by Essex, — E. and S. E. by King and Queen, and 
King William, — S. S. W. by the Pamunke3% which separates it from Han- 
over, — and W. by Spottsylvania. — Its shape is nearly a parallelogram, in 
length 30 miles from N. E. to S. W. and in breadth 20;— area 600 sq. ms. 
— lat. 37° 4' to 38° 16' N. and long. 0° 2' to 0° 43' W. of W. C— The 
surface is much broken, and the soil presents great variety. 

The Rappahannock and Pamunkey are on the borders of this counl\% 
and the Mattapony runs a little south of its centre, the low grounds of these 
rivers are admirably adapted to the culture of Indian corn, wheat, and to- 
bacco, — indeed for the firs>t they are said to be the best lands in the state. — 
Its principal villages are Bowling Green and Port Royal, and its Academies 
Rappahannock and Concord. Caroline was formerly divided into three 
parishes, Drysdale and St. Mary's, created in 1727, and St. Margarett's, in 
1744, in each of which a church was placed, only St. Margaretts remains: 
— but there are many other churches and meeting houses in the county, 
Avhich belong principally to the prevailing denomination — the Baptist. The 
people are religious, and remarkable for their wealth, hospitality and intel- 
ligence; — it was the birth place of the republican John Tatlor, — the 
highly gifted Edmund Pendleton, and the chivalric General Wood- 
ford." Population, 1820, 18,003— in 1830, 17,744.— Caroline belongs to 
the fifth judicial circuit, and third district. Taxes paid in 1833, $4440 82 
— 1834, on lots, $62 71 — lands, $2355 22 — on 5581 slaves, $1395 25 — 
3015 horses, $180 90—11 studs, $133 00— on 71 coaches, $180 56 — 
4 stages, $5 50—93 carryalls, $97 25—218 gigs, $121 94— Total, $45 33 
33. Amount expended in educating poor children in 1832, $519 88 — in 
1833, $539 84. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



BOWLING GREEN, P. V, and 

county seat, 44 ms. N. N. E. of R. 
and 78 from W. on the main road 



loading from Fredericksburg to Rich- 
mond, 22 miles from the former. — 
The public buildings are new, ban d- 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— CAROLINE, 



143 



some, and spacious, consisting of a 
court house, clerk's office, and jail, 
recently erected; one Episcopalian 
house of worship, and in the vicinity 
one church helonging to the (reform- 
ed) Baptists. There are 29 dwelling 
houses, 3 mercantile stores, 1 grist 
and saw mill, 1 coach and wagon 
manufactory, 2 blacksmiths, 1 tan- 
yard, 2 tailors, 2 bricklayers, 1 house- 
joiner, and 2 boot and shoe factories; 
2 elementary schools, one for each 
sex ; 1 well organized Sunday 
school, and 1 temperance society; al- 
so a female benevolent association, 
Avhich has a fair annually, the profits 
of which are appropriated to benevo- 
lent purposes. 

This village is located on a beauti- 
ful level green, ornamented with fine 
trees ; it derives its present name from 
the nature of its location, its original 
name was New Hope. — The seat of 
county justice was removed to this 
place in 1805. The railroad now 
under contract between Fredericks- 
burg and Richmond, is expected to 
make this village a place of consider- 
able trade. — A line of stages running 
N. and S. pass here twice a day; and 
two cross mails from E. to W. — The 
surrounding country is remarkable 
for its healthiness and fertility, pro- 
ducing abundantly all the staples of 
the state. Population 317 persons, 
of whom 6 are attorneys, and 2 phy- 
sicians. 

County Courts are held on the 2(1 
Monday in everymonth: — Quarterly 
in March, June, August, and No- 
vember. 

Judge Lomax holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chancery 
on the \st of May, and lO/A of Sep- 
tttnber. 

Chilesburg, p. O. 55 ms. from 
R. and 83 from W. | 

GoLANsviLLE, P. O. 43 ms. N. of 
R. and 90 S. S. W. of W.— It con- 
tains several dwelling houses, amer-j 
cantilo store, tanyard, blacksmith,} 
saddle and harness maker, tailor, to- 



bacco factory, manufacturing mill, 
and a grist and saw mill. Popula- 
tion 21 whites and 53 black.s. The 
scenery around is pretty and the 
country healthy; the soil is good, 
adapted to Indian corn, wheat, oats, 
and tobacco of fine quality. There 
are two mineral springs in the neigh- 
borhood, vSupposed to contain iron and 
sulphur. 

Jemap, p. O. G9 ms. from R. and 
08 from W, C. 

Mill Farm, P. O. 44 ms. from 
R. and 93 S. of W. 

Oxford, P. O. 33 ms. from R. and 
100 from W. 

Port Royal, P. V. on Rappa- 
hannock opposite Port Conway in 
King George, 59 ms. from R. and 78 
from W. — on the S. side of the river 
22 ms. below Fredericksburg. It is 
one of the oldest towns in Virginia, 
and was rapidly declining until a few 
years past, but is now improving. It 
contains 236 houses, 2 houses of pub- 
lic worship, 1 methodist and 1 Epis- 
copalian, 6 mercantile stores, and 1 
merchant mill. The mechanics are 
a tanner, saddler, carriage maker, 
and ship builder. Population in 1 830, 
GOO; 2 of whom are attorneys, and 2 
physicians. 

Port Royal was created a town by 
the House of Burgesses in 1744, — ^It 
possesses a fine harbor, which readily 
admits vessels drawing eleven feet 
water; it Avas formerly one of the 
principal markets in the state for to- 
bacco, but has now lost this important 
trade; it yet however exports large 
quantities of wheat and Indian corn. 
— Two steamboats regularly stop four 
times a week at this place on their 
route between Fredericksburg and 
Baltimore. 

Rappahaxxock Academy, P. O. 
64 ms. N. N. E. of R. and 72 S. S. W. 
of W., in the N. part of the county. 
— This was a flourishing and useful 
school a few years since, but we be- 
lieve there has been no teacher there 
for some lime past. — We now how- 



144 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— CHARLES CITY. 



ever see an advertisement, which states 
that the school will be opened on the 
15th January, 1835, with teachers fully 
competent to teach all the branches 
of education usually taught in our 
schools. 

Sparta, P. O. 48 ms. from R. and 
89 from W. 

Turner's Store, P. O. 86 ms. 
from W. and 36 N. of R. 



Veilleboro'j p. O. in N. part of 
the county, 8 ms. N. of Boioling 
Green, the seat of justice, 70 ms. S. 
S. W. of W. and 52 from R. on the 
stage road leading from Fredericks- 
burg to Richmond, 14 miles from the 
former. 

White Chimneys, P. O. 30 ms. 
N. of R. and 92 from W. 



CHARI-ES CITY* 

C'harles City was one of the eight original shires into which Vir- 
ginia was divided by the House of Burgesses in 1734. It is bobnded S. 
by James river which separates it from Surrj'-, Prince George, and Ches- 
terfield, — E. by the Chickahominy, Avhich separates it from James City, — 
N. by the same river separating it from New Kent, and W. by Henrico. 
Length 26 miles, mean breadth 8 ; area 208 sq. miles : extending from lat. 
37° 9' to 37° 28' N. and long. 0° 5' E. to 0° 22' W. of W. C— The sur- 
face of the county is rolling. — This county being so advantageously situ- 
ated on tide water, transacts its mercantile business directly with the large 
cities, and hence has not given growth to the number of little villages, with 
which many of our counties are crowded. Population 1820, 5255 — in 
1830, 5500. — Six attorneys, five regular physicians, and sundry Thomso- 
nians reside in the county. There are 2 Episcopal, 1 Quaker, 3 Baptist, 
and 4 Methodist churches in the county; also 1 classical academy, and seve- 
ral inferior schools ; 7 mercantile stores, 1 asylum for the poor, 5 grist mills, 
2 saw mills, and various mechanics. Taxes paid in 1833, $1397 84 — in 
1834, on land, $798 88—1579 slaves, $394 75—836 horses, $50 16—3 
studs, $52 00— 33 coaches, $81 50— 8 carryalls, $8 00— 45 gigs, $28 45. 
Total $1413 74. — In the primary schools no operations. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, «Slc. 



CHARLES CITY C. H., P. O. 
near the centre of the county 30 ms. 
S. S. E. of R> and 152 from W.— 
The only buildings are the court 
house, clerk's office, jail, a tavern, 
and a private dwelling. 

County Courts are held on the Zd 



Thursday in every month; — Qnar- 
terly in March, May, August, and 
November. 

Judge Upshur holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the \st of Ajyril and I2th of 
October. 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— CHARLOTTE. 145 

CHARLOTTE. 

Charlotte was created by the Legislature in 1764, from a part of 
Lunenburg county. The Southwestern border of Charlotte is washed by 
Staunton river, which separates it from Halifax. On the west, the line 
which separates Charlotte from Campbell runs on a ridge of highlands 
which give rise to waters flowing weslwardly into Falling river, and east- 
Avardly into Turnip creek. On the N. and N. E. the line, which separates 
Charlotte from Prince Edward, runs on a ridge of high lands, which give 
rise to Avaters flowing north and northeastwardly into the Appomatox, and 
south into the Staunton river. On the E. and S. E. the line, which sepa- 
rates Charlotte from Lunenburg, runs on a ridge which gives rise to 
waters flowing southoastwardly into the Meherrin, and westwardly into 
tributary streams of Staunton. On the S. the line which separates Char- 
lotte from Mecklenburg, runs on a ridge, which gives rise to waters flow- 
ing south into the Meherrin and northwestwardly into Bluestone. Length 
22 miles, mean breadth 18, and area 600 sq. miles: extending in lat. from 
36° 41' to 37° 16' N. and in long, from 10° 33' to 2° 05' W. of W. C— 
Charlotte county contains by actual surveys as entered on the commission- 
er's books, about 310,000 acres of land, valued, together with buildings, 
under the equalizing laws, to something near 2,275,000 dollars; the aver- 
age price per acre under that calculation including buildings is $8 75. 
The buildings being valued at nearly 356,000 dollars ; the average price 
per acre wihout the buildings is about $7 60.— The census taken in the 
year 1830, gives to the county, 15,252 souls— shewing about 20 acres to 
each individual in the county. 

The general surface of the county is greatly diversified with hills and 
vales, embracing every variety of soil, and is Avatered by numerous creeks 
and rivulets all tributa"ry to Staunton river, except the head branches of the 
Meherrin, on the E. and S. E. The principal streams of Charlotte flow- 
ing into Staunton and its tributaries, arc the foUoAving. 

"I'he first, beginning in the Avestern part of Charlotte, is Turnip Creek, 
the head Avaters of AA'hich rise in the neighborhood of the Red House, near 
the Campbell line, it runs south and enters Staunton river just above Cole's 
Ferry. This is not a large stream, yet it aflxirds considerable bottom or 
flat land, especially at and near its m'outh. It is from 15 to 20 miles in 
length. 

The next in order, proceeding southeastwardly is Cub Creek, the head 
branches of which are in Campbell county; from the place Avhich it enters 
the county to its junction vrith Staunton, the distance is from 30 to 40 
miles. It has many tributary streams ;— those on the Avest are Bear Creek, 
risincr near the Red House. ' Turkc!/ Cock and Louse Creek,— the two first 
are inconsiderable streams, the last is from 10 to 12 miles in length and at 
and near its junction Avith Cub creek, a little above Baldwm's imlls, 
affords much valuable bottom lands. Those on the E. are Little Cub, 
Horsepen, Rough creek, and Tcrrijs creek. Cub creek with its tributary 
streams Avaters a large and valuable portion of the "PPfr ^"d of Charlotte, 
affording a considerable quantity of rich bottom land and hill sides well suit- 
ed to the groAvth of the various kinds of grain, and in many places, produc- 
ing tobacco of the finest quality. It enters Staunton river 3 or 4 miles be- 

loAV Cole's Ferry. , j i j- „ a.^^. 

Next is Wallace's creek. Its head spring is near the road leading from 

19 



145 EASTERN VIRGINIA— CHARLOTTE. 

Charlotte court house to Cole's Ferrj', it flows through a neighborhood of 
very good land, and enters Staunton just above Morton's Ferry: it is from 
9 to 10 miles in length. 

Next in order is Little Roanoke ; which rises in the northeastern part of 
Charlotte, near the Prince Fidwnrrl line, and runs southwest tbrough the 
county and empties into Staunton river about 4 miles below Clark's Ferry. 
It is from 25 to 30 miles in length. This stream with its tributaries, waters 
a great part of the lower end of Charlotte, as well as a valuable part of 
the upper end. It is a low, flat and sluggish stream, afibrding very little 
fall of water, and contains as much bottom land as any in the state of its 
size and length ; particularly at its mouth ; where there is a body of rich 
low grounds, including those on Staunton, of fully a thousand acres. 
Randolph s Lower Quarter, situated below its mouth, itself contains be- 
tween 7 and 800 acres in one bodj'. The principal tributary stream, to 
Little Roanoke, on the west, is Wardsfork ; Avhich rises in the neighbor- 
hood of Chickentown in the upper end, and with its tributaries, waters 
the best tobacco land in the county ; indeed the lands on this stream arc 
remarkable for their universal fertilitJ^ It flows into L. Roanoke on a 
low bed at right angles — hence a large body of low grounds, the largest 
in the interior of the county, was for a long time under water and con- 
sidered irreclaimable. These grounds remained common until within a 
iew years past, and were so injurious to health as to be considered a public 
nuisance. About the year 1817 James W. Bouldin purchased a tract of 
land immediately in the fork, containing bottom lands on both streams, and 
commenced reclaiming. About the year 1819 his brother Judge Bouldin 
purchased a tract above on L Roanoke, and commenced draining : the 
plan of draining as it relates to the courses and location of the ditches on 
both purchases was laid out and executed under the direction of James W. 
Bouldin. By these means, certainly the largest, if not the finest body of 
low grounds, in the neighborhood of the Courthouse, is, from a wilderness 
of bogs, mire and stagnant waters, rendered arable and comparatively 
heahhy. 

The next tributary on the west i:s Diiniiivant ; which rises in the neigh- 
borhood of Edmond's Store, and flows through a neighborhood of good 
land, into L. Roanoke, just above Dabbs' Bridge. 

On the E. the first tributary stream is Hell's creek, though a small 
stream, it afibrds much good bottom land, particularly towards its mouth. 
It enters Liule Roanoke just below L. Roanoke bridge. 

Next in order are Spencer's and Spring creeks, rising on the dividing 
ridge, which separates Charlotte from Prince Edward and Lunenburg. 
They unite just before they flow into Little Roanoke. Just below their 
junction and at their mouth, there is a large body of valuable fiat land. 
That which lies above, immediately on L. Roanoke, is of the pipe clay 
soil and was formerly liable to inundations. Much has been done for its 
recovery from water and to improve its quality, still it is not equal to land 
above and below it. 

Next is Ash Camp, it rises in the neighborhood of Keysville, in a poor 
country, but as you descend this creek, the quantity and quality of the bot- 
tom lands increase. 

Ne.xt is Twltties' Creel-. It rises on the ridge, which separates the 
waters of Meherrin from those of Staunton river. This is a longer and 
larger stream than those just mentioned. It afibrds a considerable quan- 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— CflARLOTTE. 147 

titv of flat lands, yet with some few exceptions, the plantations on this 
stream are not remarkable for their productions. It enters Little Roanoke 
on a tract of land on w-hich the late Judge Paul Caruinoton, Jr. resid- 
ed ; it is considered very valuable. The first brick house in the county 
was built on this tract. 

The next streams are the Horsepois. They vise on the same r'nlge, the 
branches of which water a cereal part of the soutl.e ist of Charlotte. The head 
stream.s rise in and run through a body of as poor lands as any in the 
state, but as you approach their mouths, the quantity and quality of good 
lands increase, and after they unite the Horsepen afibrds much valuable 
low grounds. It enters L. Roanoke just above Jo/m Randolph's Lower 
Quarter. 

ReynoliVs Creek is a tributary to this stream. It rises on the road that 
leads "from the Double Bridges in Lunenburg to Moseley's Ferry. It runs 
through a neighborhood once of very fine lands, but much exhausted by 
cultivation ; it enters the Horsepen just below Bedford's Bridge. 

Next to L. Roanoke on the S. we come to Sandy Creek. In this portion 
of the county the soil and quality of the lands are essentially different from 
those in other parts. The soil is universally sandy or gravelly, and upon 
a slight view, it would appear to those who lived on lands of a different 
texture, to be very unproductive ; but it is known to be as productive for 
all kinds of grain and grass as any in the county, similarly situated, and 
of late years tobacco is produced of fine qualhy by judicious cultivators. 
Those who live on these lands, say that they vegetate quickly, are soon 
exhausted, but revive speedily, when proper measures are used. Several 
valuable plantations lie on Sandy Creek, near its mouth. It is a short 
stream, and enters Staunton a little above Moseley's Ferry. 

After leaving Sandy Creek, the county becomes very narrow to its 
southern extremity, a ridge running between Bluestone and Staunton to its 
termination. The first tributary, to Staunton after leaving Sandy Creek, is 
Buffaloe. This stream rises in the neighborhood of Jeffrey's Store and 
runs into Staunton river, a few miles below Moseley's Ferry. 

The next are Ca.rglVs and Hogan's Creeks. Two small streams water- 
ing the extreme south of the county. Hogan's Creek with its branches 
Avater some very valuable land. 

Bluestone affords to this county somo very valuable land, originally very 
fine, having a red clay foundation with mulatto soil. 

Staunton river gives to this county as much valuable bottom^ lands, as 
it does to any county on its waters. On the western extremity of the 
county, at the' mouth of FalUng river, lived and died the distinguished 
Patrick Henry. His residence was on the termination of the ridge, 
which separates Charlotte from Campbell. It is called Red Hill, from 
which there is a very handsome southern view of a very large body of 
rich low grounds, estimated at 500 acres. It is now the property of his 
two youngest sons. The remains of the orator and his lady repose on the 
spot. 

The next most conspicuous place on the river, proceedmg southwardly, 
is called Ward's Neck, situated just above the mouth of Cub Creek, be- 
tween that and Cole's Ferry ; it is embraced by a large bend or curve of 
the river, corresponding with the Cove in Halifax, which lies just below 
it on the opposite side of the river. It affords several beautiful situations 



148 EASTERN VIRGINIA— CHARLOTTE. 

for buildings, on elevated, fertile and level table lands, skirted by the richest 
and most fertile low grounds or river bottoms. 

The next place just below Clark's Ferry, is the residence of the late 
John Randolph of Roanoke. Proceeding southwest from the Court- 
house, on the main southern stage road, when getting within a mile of 
Clark's Ferry, a left hand road leads vip a gentle assent to the summit of 
the only hill in the county, dignified by the name of mountain. On this 
summit stands the buildings, late the residence of this illvistrious orator. 
They are situated literally iu the woods ; for there is not a vestige of land 
cultivated in view — they consist of two plain wooden buildings, of one story 
each, with tv^^o rooms on a floor, within a few steps of each other; the 
back building, which he mostly occupied, is entered through a piazza, on 
a pebble floor, the roof of which is supported by unhew/i posts taken im- 
mediately from the forest. Notwithstanding the simplicity of the out- 
ward appearance of these buildings, within the furniture, plate, paintings 
and library corresponded with the elevated characted of their owner, es- 
sentially rich but plain. A few steps to the west of the front building 
under a large pine tree, is interred the body of that Man, whose inimitable 
eloquence once electrified the people of the United States, and whose fame 
almost reached the remotest bounds of the civilized world. 

Immediately below Mr Randolph's, near the junction of the L. Roanoke 
with Staunton river, on an elevated and beautiful site, stands the residence 
of the late Judge Paul Carrington, Sen. It is now the property of his 
youngest son. Judge Carrington Avas a member of the bar of the county 
of Charlotte, when the county court was organized in the year 1765, he had 
been a practising lawyer and a member of the House of Burgesses, when 
this county was a part of Lunenburg. After the British Governor, Lord 
Dunmore, had abdicated the government of Virginia, a convention met 
in Richmond in the year 1775, to organize a provincial form of govern- 
ment and plan of defence for the colony. This plan of defence was sub- 
mitted by them to a committee of public safety. Paul Carrington was one 
of that committee. He subsequently became a Judge of the Court of Ap- 
peals, in which office he remained until a few years previous to his death. 

After leaving the lands at the mouth of the L. Roanoke, the quantity 
and quality of the low grounds decrease, so far as the county of Charlotte 
reaches on the river. 

Upon a general view of the soil, it may be said, that it is generous and 
free — that most of the wood, on the streams and hill sides has been cut 
down, the hill sides much exhausted, yet the bottom lands are generally 
productive, more especially where they are, in the hands of judicious cul- 
tivators. Our ridges contain the only forests, and they are mostly poor and 
barren— valuable only for their timbers. These remarks hold good gene- 
rally, except those tracts in possession of large land holders, on some of 
which, there are still some good bottom and high lands uncleared, particu- 
larly on L. Roanoke, Cub creek and Wardsfork. 

Agriculturalists say with confidence, that it is found by a proper course 
of cultivation, that all exhausted lands, originally good, especially those 
with red clay foundations are recoverable, and can be brought back to their 
original fertility— if so, it is confidently hoped that a spirit of improvement 
m agriculture may prevail, which will eflect this object. 

Mtnerals.—There is a singular vein of stone running throuc/h the coun- 
ty nearly from N. to S. It is composed of a series of round stones of va- 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— CHARLOTTE. 149 

rious sizes, sometimes very large; — the vein in some places is barely per- 
ceptible, consisting of only a few round pebbles, in others it protrudes a 
rugged mass of rocks. Gold and Silver have been diligently sought, but 
7iot found. 

Elections. — There are 3 precinct elections in the county — 1 at Harvey's 
store in Chicken-town, 1 at Fuqua's store, above Louse creek, both in the 
upper end of the county; and I at M' Cargo's in the lower end, near Wii- 
liesburg. 

Poor. — The County Court has lately purchased land and erected build, 
ings about 7 miles from the C. H. for the accommodation of the poor. The 
present inmates are 6 males, and 9 females. This arrangement is expected 
to lessen considerably the poor rates of the county. 

Society. — The great men who have resided in Charlotte, and the many 
pious and good men which she has produced, operating by their example 
and exertions upon an intelligent community, have given to Charlotte so- 
ciety a tone of dignified and lofty sentiment, not often met with, and not 
soon to be laid aside. 

Two Agricultural Societies have lately been formed in the county; 1 
at Charlotte C. H., the other near Wyliesburg in the lower end. These 
societies embrace the most wealthy and enterprising citizens of their re- 
spective neighbourhoods. 

The Main Western Road, from the east, leading by Prince Edward C. 
H. enters this county near the sources of Spring creek, after entering the 
county, the main or right branch crosses Cub creek at Harvey's bridge, 
thence by the Red House to Lynchburg and Campbel C. H. The left 
leads on by Rough creek church, crosses Cub creek, at Rawlins' bridge, 
after which it branches; the right goes on the ridge, on the head waters of 
Louse creek and Turkey cock, and intersects Avith a road leading from 
Cole's ferry, by the Red House, to Lynchburg. The left, at Rawlins' 
bridge, leads on by Chappel's shop, and Gaines' ; crosses Louse creek at 
Dennis', thence to Fuqua's store — after which it again branches: the Jirst 
right leads on to Hat creek in Campbell, the next to Booker's ferry and 
Red hill, crossing Turnip creek at Oliver's, just below Bruce's mill. The 
left to Cole's ferry. 

The next road that enters the county from the east by Prince Edward 
C. H. is the rnain southern stage road — it enters the county near the head 
waters of L. Roanoke, crosses that stream at L. Roanoke bridge, crosses 
Dunnevant, at Spencer's, thence to Charlotte C. H., a little above which, it 
branches: the right leading across Woodsfork to Price's old field, where it 
again branches: the right leading to White's tavern, where a left leads to 
the Red House, where it intersects with the main western road. The left 
at Price's old field leads to the road leading from Rough creek church to 
Booker's ferry, and to Cole's ferry. The left above Charlotte C. H. is the 
continuation of the stage road, and leads to Morton's ferry, and to Clark's 
ferry. 

The next road that passes through the county from the east, is by 
Moor's old ordinary in Prince Edward, it enters the county at Clark's, 
where it immediately branches. The right leads to L. Roanoke bridge; 
and thence to the main tcestern roadnear Chicken town : the left at Clark's 
leads to Keysville, thence to Charlotte C. H. At Keysville it branches, 
the right leading on the ridge between Ash camp and Tuelties' creek to 



150 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— CHARLOTTE. 



Bouldin's old store,* thence to Charlotte C H. and thence it intersects with 
Booker's ferry road at Harris's. 

The next road, that enters the county from the east, is one that crosses 
the Double Bridges in Lunenburg; it enters the county near Hayleysburg, 
thence by Eubank's store, to Brigdewater's, near which place it branches. 
The left leading on the ridge separating the waters of Meherrin from a 
branch of the Bluestone, to Mack Goode's. The right or main road at 
Brigewater's leads by Leciprus' store, and M'Cargo's to Wyliesburg, 
when it branches; the right leads across Sandy creek by Brock's, to Mose- 
ley's ferry; the left leads to Callicote's, thence to Brook's where it intersects 
with the Mosely ferry road, to Jeffries' store, to Blank's ferry, and to Clarks- 
ville and Abbey ville, in Mecklenburg. Population in 1820, 13,290—1830, 
15,252. Charlotte belongs to the 9th judicial circuit, and 5th district. 

Taxes paid in 1833, $4,239 97— in 1834, on land, 822,177 77—5288 
slaves, $1,322—3569 horses, $214,14 12. studs, $280—113 coaches, 
$283 65—24 carryalls, $24—99 gigs, $57 85. Total $4,301 41. Am't. 
expended in educating poor children in 1832, $360 16 — in 1833, $407 96. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, ike. 

FiNEwooD, P. V. 114 m's. S. W.jconiains a large C. H. built on a plan 
of R., and 205 from W., situated in furnished by Mr. Jefferson, a jail of 2 
the lower end of the Co. on the wa- stories, with a jailor's house, also of 2 
ters of Bluestone creek, on the road stories, immediately in front of it; all 
leading from Charlotte C. H. toBoyd-iof brick except the jail, which is of 
ton, Randolph Macon College, «kc. in ponderous hewn stone: — besides these, 



Mecklinburg, in a fertile and healthy 
neighbourhood. 

Friend's Grove, P. V. 195 S. S. 
W. of W., and 104 S. W. of R., 7 
m's. E. of the C. H., and 4 from 
Keysville. It contains 1 mercantile 
store, a tobacco factory giving employ- 
ment to 30 hands, and a blacksmith 
shop. 

H.\rvey's Store, P. O. 108 m's. 
S. W. of R., and 199 from W. 

MARYSVILLE, P. O. and Seat 
of Justice, 30 m's. S. E. of Lynch- 
burg, 90 m's. S. W. of R., and 187 
from W. in lat. 37° 03', N. long. 1° 
52' W. of W. C, situated on the 
main southern stage road, on a ridge 
between Little Roanoke and its tribu- 
tary Wardsfork, about 4 m's. from 



the village contains 40 dwelling 
houses, a Baptist and a Presbyterian 
house of worship, 2 well kept taverns, 
5 mercantile stores, 1 classical and 1 
common school, a temperance society, 
and a bible society hold their quarter- 
ly and annual meetings in this place. 
The mechanics, are a tanner, 3 sad- 
dlers, and 2 tailor shops both of which 
employ a number of hands, 3 black- 
smiths, 4 wagon makers shops, each 
of which employ 8 or 10 hands, and 
1 carriage maker, 1 cabinet maker, 3 
boot and shoe factories, besides seve- 
ral house carpenters and bricklayers. 
The mail is delivered thrice a week. 
Population 475 persons; of whom 4 
are attornej'^s, and 3 physicians. 
County Courts are held on the first 



their junction. The Public Square' 3Ioiulai/ in every raonih; — Quarterly 

* This place, Bouldin's old store, is one of the oldest settlements in this county ; the 
settlement was made by Col. Thomas Bouldin, who removed from Marvland, and 
settled here — within a few hundred yards of this place w^as buried the late Thomas 
T. Bouldin, deceased, here are buried also his father and grand father. Here also 
resides his mother, the sister of the late governor Tyler, active and healthy at the 
advanced age of 8'2 years. Seldom does it occur in this country, that the same jami- 
ly resides at the same phice for so long a time. 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— CHESTERFIELD. 



161 



in March, May, August and Nnvrm- 
ber. Judge Leigh, holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chancery 
on the 16/A of April and Scj)/ ember. 

Harvey's Store, P. O. 108 rn's. 
from R. and 199 from W. 

Keysville, p. V. on the head of 
Mehcrrin river, 99 m's. S, W. of R. 
and 190 froni W. It contains 7 dwel- 
ling; houses, 1 mercantile store, a tav- 
ern, 2 wagon makers employing- ma- 
ny hands, 2 blacksmiths, 1 boot and 
shoe factory, an excellent wool-card- 
ing machine on an extensive scale, 
and a cotton gin. Population 70. 

Red House, P. O. 1 12 m's. S. W. 
of R., and 194 from W. 

Rough Creek Church, P. O. 
105 m's. S. W. of R., and 196 from 
W., situated 9 m's. W. of the C. H. 
between Cub creek, and its tributary 
Rough creek : at this place there are 
2 stores, a Presbyterian church, a 
blacksmith and tailor, several private 
dwellings, and a resident physician. 



This has been, and still is in some 
measure, a favourite place of resort 
for the people of the upper end for 
political or social purposes. 

Roanoke Bridge, P. O. 89 m's. 
S. W. of R. and 180 from W., situated 
on the waters of L. Roanoke in a fer- 
tile and healthy district: — contains a 
store, a mill, and a blacksmith shop. 

Wheeler's Spring, P. O. 99 
m's. from R., and 190 from W. 

WvLiESBURG, P. O. 107 m's. from 
R., and 222 from W., situat(;d on the 
road leading from the Double Bridges 
to Moseley's ferry, 18 m's. S. of the 
C. H. It contains at this time a store, 
a blacksmith, and a resident phy- 
sician. This is a place of meeting 
for the lower end, as Rough creek 
church is for the upper end of the 
county. The road leading by Char- 
lotte C. H , and Reed's mill to Clark's 
ferrj-, is the dividing line of these 2 
divisions. 



CHESTSKFIELD. 



Chesterfield was created by the House of Burgesses in 1748, from 
a part of Henrico. It is bounded N. by the James which separates it from 
Henrico, and Charles City, — E. S. E. by the Appomattox, which separates 
it from Prince George, — S. and S. \\. by the same river, separating it from 
Dinwiddie S. and Amelia S. W. — and W. N. W. by Powhatan. Extreme 
length from the junction of Appomattox with James, to the western angle 
38 miles, mean breadth 12, — area 456 square miles. Lat. 37° 10' to 37^ 
31' N. and long. 0° 22' to 1° 05' W. of W. C— The surface is broken, 
and the soil is poor except on the rivers. — The most profitable railroad in 
the world is in this county, from James river to the coal viines, a distance 
of 13 miles. We subjoin an account of these mines from the pen of a tra- 
veller : 

"These coal mines are on the south side of James river, about twelve 
miles above the city of Richmond. At this citj^the granite rock makes its 
appearance. It forms the bed of the river, and affords an inexhaustible 
water power. On the road to the Chesterfield mines, rocks are not seen 
until you get near the mines. The country is rolling, and has the aspect 
of barrenness and poverty — yet good husbandry would soon give to it fresh- 
ness and beauty. — The elevation is gradual to the west, and as far as I could 
judge, the summit level, at the mouth of the Maidenhead mine, is about 
300 feet above the tide water in James river. 

"Within the circumference of about a mile square, there have been scve- 



152 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— CHESTERFIELD. 



ral mines opened and seven or cigkt are now Avrought. The rock is not 
many feet below the surface, and is from two hundred and fifty to four hun- 
dred and fifty feet thick. The prevailing rock is a light grey coarse sand 
stone — rather hard and some of it sparkling with chrystalized quartz. This 
rock alternates with a bluish clay in a state of considerable compactness, 
and with shell. — Much of these last two are so filled v.-ith the sulphate of 
iron, minutely disseminated, that they soon decompose in the atmosphere. 
There is no trace of the lime rock, nor as yet of the old red sand stone. It 
is doubtful, however, whether they have reached the bottom of the coal for- 
mation. At the bottom of one of the shafts, the floor upon which the coal 
rests is called granite— but from the description of the rock, I concluded it 
must be the hardest of the seinite rocks. 

"The coal here is bituminous. The basins appear to be small, and the 
colliers complain of the faults and troubles in them. The coal seams are 
from a few inches to several feet in thickness — one has been found nearly 
twenty feet thick. The dip rarely exceeds forty-five degrees. Wooldridge's 
mine is the deepest and the only one which has a steam engine to raise the 
coal and the water out of the pit. The others employ mules. The mines 
are worked day and night, except Sundays — when the water is drawn as 
often as necessary to keep the works below from being flooded. Drifts are 
cut from the foot of the shafts, and some of those have been carried out seve- 
ral hundred yards. These are said to be from ten to twenty feet wide, and 
from five to twenty or thirty feet high. Mules are employed in the mines 
to draw the coal to the foot of the shafts. These are fed and stabled in the 
chambers of the mine. Nevertheless, they keep fat. And what is certainly 
not a little remarkable to a novice, these mines abound in rats. They go 
down, it seems, on the ropes, attracted into these tartarean abodes by the 
provisions and provender, which arc sent down for the negroes and mules. 
The negroes prefer this to labor in the field. 

"All these mines raise about two hundred tons of coal in each twenty- 
four hours. This coal is sent daily, (Sundays excepted,) in a team of se- 
venty to a hundred cars, over a fine rail- way thirteen miles, to the river. 

" There are several valuable coal mines on the north side of James river, 
in the western part of Henrico county. Coal has likewise been discovered 
in Goochland and Powhatan counties." 

Chesterfield belongs to the seventh judicial circuit, and fourth district. 
Population in 1820, 18,003~in 1830, 18,637. Taxes paid in 1833, $5231 
31— in 1834, on lots $292 31— land, $2572 88— on 5266 slaves, $1316 50 
—3134 horses, $188 64— 12 studs, $390 00—123 coaches, $291 35—2 
stages, $6 00—46 carryalls, $52 00—234 gigs, $133 40. Total, $5252 
08. Amount expended in educating poor children in 1832, $601 65 — in 
1833, $561 64. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Bellona Arsenal, a United 
States military post, situated on beau- 
tiful elevated ground, on the south side 
of James river, 14 ms. above Rich- 
mond, 135 from W. and 2 south of 
Bellona P. O., Henrico county. It 
was established in 1816-17, since 



which time it has been garrisoned by 
a company of U. S. Artillery. It has 
been a depot for a considerable quan- 
tity of military stores, and during a 
great portion of the time since its con- 
struction, a number of artificers have 
been employed in repairing and fabri- 



i 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— CHESTERFIELD. 



153 



eating small arms and other muni- 
tions of war. Immediately adjacent 
to the Arsenal, is Bellona Foundry, 
owned by Major John Clarke, who 
for a number of years past has been 
casting cannon, — under an annual 
contract with the government. — The 
guns made at this place are said to be 
unsurpassed in quality by any made 
in the United States. In consequence 
of the continuous expense and incon- 
venience of transportation to and from 
the arsenal — of the extreme difficulty 
arising from its isolated location, of 
obtaining and retaining the mechanics 
necessary for an arsenal of construc- 
tion — of the unsafe condition of the 
property at a point, Avhere from its 
contiguity to the coal pits, a greater 
number of negroes could be collected 
in a kw hours, than at any other place 
in the commonwealth, and of the re- 
puted unhealthiness of the place, — an 
order has lately been issued for aban- 
doning the post and removing the 
troops and property to Fort Monroe 
at Old Point Comfort. 

CoLEsviLLE, P. O. 36 ms. S. W. 
of R. and 158 from W. in the S. W. 
angle of the county. 

GooDSBRiDGE, P. O. 38 ms. S. W. 
of R. and 160 from W. 

Hallsboro', p. V. 17 ms. from 
R. and 139 from W. — situated on the 
Buckingham road leading from Rich- 
mond to Lynchburg, 15 ms. from 
Scottsville in Powhatan county, — in a 
healthy and pleasant neighborhood. 
The soil in the vicinity is rather poor, 
and most adapted to the culture of 
oats and corn. — It contains several 
dwelling houses, 1 large Baptist meet- 
ing house, (called "Be^Ae^,") a large, 
comfortable, and convenient tavern, a 
mercantile store, and a common schoo^ . 
20 



The Lynchburg stage passes every 
day in the week. 

Hatchersville, P. O. 11 ms. 
from R. and 133 from W. 

Manchester, P. V. 123 ms. from 
W. and 1 from R, — pleasantly situ- 
ated on the margin of James river, 
opposite to Richmond, to which it is 
united by Mayo's bridge across the 
rapids. It contains about 360 houses, 
2 houses of worship, 1 Methodist and 
the other Baptist, 2 common schools, 
6 grocery stores, 1 cotton seed oil 
mill, 1 cotton factory, with a capital 
of $70,000, 8 tobacco manufactories, 
1 poor asylum, and 1 merchant mill. 
The principal mechanical pursuits 
are, house-carpentry, cabinet making, 
(to considerable extent,) coach making, 
blacksmith's work, &.c. Population 
1500 persons; of whom two are at- 
torneys, and three physicians. 

The Chesterfield ond Manchester 
Rail Road connects the strata of bitu- 
minous coal on James river, with its 
tide water, at Manchester; — It extends 
13^ miles in a single track, with se- 
veral turn-outs, and \h mile branch- 
roads to the coal beds. — The compa- 
ny was incorporated by the Legisla- 
ture in 1829, commenced work in 
January, 1830, and was opened for 
use in July, 1831. This road was 
so profitable as to afford a dividend of 
TEN PER CENT, to the Stockholders 
in the first six months; — A result 
which has not been equalled by any 
improvement in the United States, 
perhaps in the world. The cost of 
the road was 68,000 per mile; and 
including wagons, horses, &c. the 
whole disbursement of the company 
has been about $140,000; or $10,370 
per male. 

Vadensburg, P. O. 20 ms, S. of 
R. and H2 from W. 



154 EASTERN VIRGINIA— CULPEPEll. 

CUI.PEFER. 

CuLPEPEK was created by the Legislature in 1778 from a part of Orange. 
It is bounded N. and N. E. by the North Fork of Rappahannock river, 
which separates it from Fauquier N. and Stafford E. N. E.— E. and S. E. 
by the Rapid Ann river, which separates it from Spottsylvania E. and 
Orange S. E. — S. and S. W. by Orange, — W. and N. W. by the new 
county of Rappahannock. — We giv^e its dimensions as they existed pirior to 
the separation of Rappahannock, and expecting to receive information of 
the extent of the latter by the time it comes to press, by reference to that 
county, the present extent of Culpeper may be ascertained. Length of the 
old county from the junction of Rapid Ann and Rappahannock to its north- 
ern angle in the Blue Ridge 42 miles, — mean breadth 16, and area 672 
square miles; extending in lat. from 3S° 15' N. and long, from 0° 35' to 1° 
20' W. of W. C. — We do not as yet know precisely to what lat. and long, 
the eastern boundary of Rappahannock extends. Besides its two boundary 
streams, Calpeper is watered by a number of creeks and rivers flowing N. 
E. into the Rappahannock, S. E. into the Rapid Ann; but the former being- 
much longer, indicates the general slope of the county to be in that direc- 
tion, the chief of them is Aestham rirer which rises in Madison and crosses 
Culpeper; and next in importance. Mountain creek, which rises near the 
Madison line, flows nearly parallel to Hazel, branch of Aestham river, and 
empties like it into the Rappahannock. The surface is finely diversified 
Avith hill and dale, and contains large bodies of excellent land; of the same 
general character which pervades the counties generally on the eastern foot 
of the Blue Ridge. Population in 1820, 20,942 — 1830, 24,027. Culpe- 
per belongs to the 1 1th judicial circuit, and sixth district. Taxes paid in 
1833, $3309 95— in 1834, on lots, $136 40— land, $1930 29— on 322^ 
slaves, $805 50—3119 horses, $187 14- -9 studs, $122 00—43 coaches, 

$99 75 — 33 carryalls, $40 75 16 gigs, $9 10. Total $3330 94. 

Amount expended in educating poor children in 1832, $1012 93 — in 1834, 
$735 01. 

Historical Sketch. — Culpeper covntij^ at all times respectable, but 
chiefly distinguished in the revolutionary war, for the services of her Ed- 
WARD Stevexs, her Jonx Green, and her gallant Minute Men, who, as 
Mr. Randolph said, in one of his speeches in the United States Senate, 
^' were raised in a minute, armed in a minute, marched in a minute, fought 
in a minute, and vanquished in a minute;" — was first created in 1748, out 
of a part of the county of Orange. Every thing therefore of a prior date 
Avhich relates to the present county, must be sought either in Orange, or m 
Spotts^-lvania, from which Orange was taken in 1734, or in Essex, from- 
which Spottsylvania was taken in 1720; or lastly, in the o/rZ county of 
Rappahannock, which v/as divided in 1692; and Essex and the county of 
Richmond made out of it; with a direction that the records belonging to 
the county court of Rappahannock, prior to that division, Avhich Avas'inlfact 
an extinction of it, should be kept in Essex. — In 1793, Madison was taken 
from Culpeper, and in 1833, she was still further reduced in importance 
and extent by the act of assembly, which created a ncAV county and revived 
in it the name of Jxapjiahannock, with this difl^erence, that it is now the soil 
from which that valuable stream derives its sources, instead of that through 
which it flowed in the full majesty of its accumulated strength. The boim- 
daries of Culpeper, at the presen{ time, are the same that formerly existed, 



EASTERN VlRdTNIA— C'ULPKPEU 155 

except the iliviiling line botween il and Kappahai\uock. Tlmt, ujifortunately, 
is so described, that it is impossible to say with certainty, what it is. The 
act directs that the boundary line of Rappahannock shall begin "at the cor- 
ner of Madison and Culpeper counties upon the top of the Blue Ridge of 
mountains, and run thence wilh the line of said counties to the point where 
it is intersected by Hugh's (Hughes's) river, above the junction of Hugh's 
(Hughes's) and Hazel rivers; thence with Hugh's (Hughes's) river to the 
junction of the aforesaid rivers: thence to a bend in the river near a point 
called the Giant's Castle; thence to Horner's mill upon the Faurpiier and 
Culpeper line;" and thence v>'ith the lines of the bordering counties to the 
beginning. Unluckily Hughes's river crosses the Madison line into what 
was formerly Culpeper, at the point which seems to be indicated by the 
foregoing description, in the natural construction of the words; — flows some 
distance, bends, and recrosses into Madison, — making a sort of insulated 
area between the river and the county line — and then some distance below 
crosses again into Culpeper, ai a poiai still above the junction with the 
Hazel. In the natural construction of the language, Culpeper still retains 
jurisdiction over soil that is thus entirelj^ detached from the body of the 
county, and which for convenience sake ought to belong to Rappahannock. 
The commissioners for running and marking the county line have perform- 
ed their duty fully, as it seems to us, and yet have not touched this ques- 
tion; which vrill perhaps occasion some diiiiculty, in various ways, unless 
the assembly shall interpose to make it clear/// a part of the one or the other 
county. 

Culpeper, in its original shape, co)nprehended all "the debateable 
ground" betweeen the Crown of England and Lord Fairfax, tliat lay on 
the eastern side of the Blue Ridge, and v/as formerly the subject of a very 
interesting controversy, that deserves sUll to be remembered for the expla- 
nation it afiords of some things, which otherwise would be inexplicable. 
Charles the Second, while a fugitive from his kingdom, granted to Lord 
Hopton and others "all that entire tract of land, situated within the heads 
of the rivers Rappahannock and Quiriough or Potomac, the courses of the 
said rivers, as they are com_monly called and knoAvn by the inhabitants and 
descriptions of those parts, and Chesapeake bay, together with the rivers 
themselves, and all the islands within the banks of them;" and on the 8th 
of May, IGG9, after his restoration, and after that patent had been surren- 
dered, "in order that he might regrant the lands with alterations," — again 
granted the same tract of country to the Earl of St. Albans and others. — 
These afterwards sold their righl to Lord Culpeper; and Jam.es the Second, 
in the fourth year of his reign, but after he had in fact ceased to reign, con- 
firmed the patents, and granted the same tract to the Lord Culpeper, his 
heirs and assigns, forever. Such was the origin of the proprietary litletothc 
Northern Neck of A'irginia: — but if any doubt as to its validity could have 
existed, it was entirely removed, not only by universal acquiescence during 
the colonial government, but by solemn decisions of the highest judicial 
tribunal in the commonwealth' after the establishment of an independent 
government here. From Lord Culpeper this magnificent estate descended 
to his heir, Lord Fairfax; who (or his descendant, with the same title of 
nobility) afterwards removed to Virginia, and made it his residence. As 
the proprietors of the Northern Neck thus owned, the land lying between 
the Rappahannock, from its head to the bay, on the one side, and the Poto- 
mac, from its head to tlie bay on the other,— -and the Crown retained its title 



156 EASTERN VIRGINIA— CULPEPER. 

to all the lands not included within those limits or other\vise granted away, 
— it was perfectly clear, in the first settlements, — which commenced on the 
seaboard, — to whom the settlers were to apply for a title to their lands. 
Below the falls, the Rappahannock was a well defined natural boundary : 
and as the land happened to lie on the north or the south side of it, the title 
was to be derived from the Proprietary or the Crown. Bat where the set- 
tlements upon that river extended towards the mountains, it was discovered 
that it was formed by the confluence, a short distance above the falls, and at 
the point which is now the extren)ity of Culpeper county towards the sea, 
— of two streams so nearly equal in magnitude, that it might well be doubted 
which of them led to the "head" of the Rappahannock. The one formed 
of several tributaries that might well dispute among themselves the honor 
of being the main branch of that arm of the river, has its source at Ches- 
ter's Gap in the Blue Ridge, and in its whole course from thence to the 
point of the Great Fork of the Rappahannock, (as it is called to distinguish 
it from the Little Fork, formed aboA'e by the junction of this stream with 
Aestham's river,) separates the present counties of Fauquier, and (to a very 
small extent) Stafford, on the north, from Rappahannock and Culpeper on 
the south. The other, formed in like manner, has its source at that point 
in the Blue Ridge where the four counties of Orange, Madison, Rocking- 
ham and Shenandoah meet; and in its whole course from thence to its con- 
fluence with the former, it separates the present counties of Orange, and 
(to a very small extent) Spottsylvania on the south, from Madison and Cul- 
peper on the north. If the latter vrere the main branch of the Rappahan- 
nock, and consequently the boundary of the proprietary tract, — grants oi all 
the lands lying in what — from 174S to 1793 — was Culpeper co. (and now 
makes the three counties of Culpeper, Madison and Rappahannock,) were 
to be obtained from the proprietors of the Northern Neck: if the former, 
then from the Crown. And by drawing one line on the map of the state, 
from Fairfax's store, at the head of the North Branch of the Potomac, on 
the Back Bone of the Alleghany mountains, between the counties of Hardy 
and Randolph, to the former, — and another from the same point to the lat- 
ter, (head of the Rappahannock,) it will be found that the title depended 
upon the same considerations, to a larger tract of country on the western 
side of the Blue Ridge, than even these three counties on the eastern. 

As early as the year 1705, upon the presentation of a patent for lands 
lying within the limits of this debateable ground, — to be signed by the pro- 
per agents of the royal government in this colony, — the agent for the pro- 
prietor of the Northern Neck objected to it — and thereupon an order of 
council was made, that neither the Crown or the proprietor should issue 
patents for such lands, until the dispute should be settled, and that commis- 
sioners mutually chosen should view the two branches of the Rappahan- 
nock, which Ave have before described. They were accordingly chosen, 
and reported that the streams appeared to be of equal magnitude: — and 
some other persons (styling themselves Wood's trustees,) by the request of 
the proprietor's agent, certified the same thing. After this the colonial 
government seems to have treated the territory on the south side of the 
North Fork of the Rappahannock, rising at Chester's Gap, as belonging 
to the Crown: — for in 1720, an act of assembly was passed, creating the 
county of Spottsylvania, which, in declaring its' boundaries, directed a line 
to be run over the high mountains to the river on the north west side there- 
of, thence down the said river until it comes aga'mst the head of Rappa- 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— CULPEPER. 157 

hannocli, thence to the head of Rappahaimock river; and doicn that river 
to the mouth of Snow Creek. And in 1734, an act was passed /or divid- 
ing Spotfst/h-ania, which directed that all that territory of land adjoining 
to and above the dividing line thereby established, bounded S. by the 
line of Hanover county, (as it was then called,) northerly by the grant of 
the Lord Fairfax, and westerly by the utmost limits of Virginia, should 
be "thenceforth created into one distinct county, and be called and known 
by the name of the county of Orange. In 1748, an act was passed for 
dividing the county of Orange, which created the county of Culpeper; — 
and until the creation of Rappahannock in 1S33, Culpeper always extended 
to that North Fork and to Chester's Gap; and in fact, in tracing the titles 
to land in the old county of Culpeper, it is found, that the patent, during this 
period, was usually granted in the name of the King — sometimes in the 
name of Lord Fairfax. In 1733 that lord obtained from the King instruc- 
tions to the colonial government to appoint commissioners to settle the dis- 
pute about the boundaries, and to issue no more patents for lands lying 
within the contested districts, until the dispute Avas ended ; but these instruc- 
tions were not communicated to the governor and council until 1730. In 
that year Lord Fairfax arrived in the colony with the instructions ; and in 
the course of that and the succeeding year, a survey, in pursuance of them, 
was made of the Northern Neck, by the commissioners, who, differing in 
opinion, made separate reports: wliich, in 1733, were referred to the com- 
mittee of the council (in England) for plantation affairs, upon whose report, 
the King, on the 1 Itli of April 174.5, determined that all the lands contained 
between the head springs of the Potomac and the south branch of the Rap- 
pahaimock, as we have before described it,) and the mouths of the 2 rivers, 
belonged to Lord Fairfax. In the meantime the commissioners had made 
their reports to the colonial government, which, from the alarm thereby oc- 
casioned to the holders of lands within the unsettled limits, who had derived 
their titles from the Crown, produced remonstrances and counter petitions 
before the governor and council: — and they confirmed the survey and re- 
port, that were most favourable to Lord Fairfax, upon the terms, that he 
should establish all the grants that had been made "by the Crown: to which 
effect an order was made by the Lord on the 21st of December 1738. The 
royal order in council, already mentioned, also recited that Lord Fairfax 
had consented, and indeed proposed, " that all the grantees of lands under 
the Crown within the boundaries aforementioned, should quietly enjoy their 
lands according to their respective grants; and likewise to do and consent 
to all such acts as should be thought necessary to confirm and decree such 
grantees in the quiet possession of their said lands; and thereupon directed 
that the colonial government should not make any grants of lands within 
the said boundaries, or molest or disturb Lord Fairfax in the quiet posses- 
sion and enjoyment of the lands contained therein ; provided the said lands 
should be subject to the grants made of any parts thereof by his majesty, 
or any of his royal predecessors, and that the Lord Fairfax should comply 
with his proposal before mentioned. And in 1748, an act of assembly was 
passed which gave the form, and sanction and validity of law to this com- 
promise, as it might properly be called, — establishing the head spring of 
Rappahannock, commonly called Conway, as the proprietor's southern 
boundary, and confirming the titles of grantees from the Crown. At the 
same session the whole of the land, on the eastern side of the Blue Ridge, 
Avhich had been the subject of this important and protracted controversy, 



153 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— CULPEl^ER. 



Avas created into a separate and distinct county; and it was named after Lord 
Culpeper, the ancestor of the then present proprietor. 

At the C. H. of the county a town was established by an act passed in 
1759, which was called after the proprietor of the county himself, Fairfax, 
and has continued ever since to be the seat of justice for the county, by the 
same name. It Avas recently, by an act passed in 1834, incorporated; and 
at this time contains a C H., jail, and clerk's office, on the public square, 
all handsome buildings, an episcopalian and a presbyterian chiirch built of 
brick, and a masonic hall built of wood, with a large wooden meeting 
house in the immediate vicinity, belonging to the Baptist denomination: — 
its streets are broad and laid out in a rectangular form, and are Avell sup- 
plied with pumps. I'here are 3 taverns, besides some boarding houses, 9 
stores ; 1 watch maker and jeweller's shop, 2 saddlers, 4 shoe makers, 4 
tailors, and mantuamakers, 1 hattei', 3 blacksmiths, 2 carpenters and cabi- 
net makers, 1 considerable establishment for making Avagons, &c. and 
another quite extensiA'e for making coaches, carriages, «kc. The Piedmont 
line of post coaches, passes through this place. It contains also 7 lawyer's 
offices, 3 doctor's shops, and a parsonage house, Avhich the vestry of the 
Episcopal church have purchased, and the ladies have nearly paid for, by 
that ingenious method of making much out of little, Avhich has been latterly 
practised AA^ith such general success — a fair. There are in the immediate 
vicinity of the town 3 schools, all on private foundations, and 1 market 
house, also on private foundation;— 2 respectable lanyards are kept up in 
sight of the town. There is a printing establisliment, from Avhich issues a 
Aveekly paper, under the title of the Culpeper Gazette; and another very 
recently established, that sends forth weekly, The Messenger. 

TOWNS, YILLACIES, POST OFFICE, &c. 



Amissvili.e, p. O. 121 ms. fromjms, from Fairfax, and 10 from 

R., and G9 from W. Woodville, in Rappahannock. It 

Colvin's Tavpjrn, p. O. 90 ms. contains a tavern, store, and black- 



from R., and 80 from W. 

FAIRFAX, P. O. and seal of Jus- 
tice, 88 m.s. N. W. of Fredericks- 
burg, 76 S. W. of W. and 94 from. R., 
in lat. 38° 26', long. 1. 04', W. of C. 

Coiinhj Courts are held on the 2nd 



smith shop. 

.Tefi'ersonton, p. v. 109 m's 
from R., and 61 S. S. W. of W., situ- 
ated near the right branch of the Rap- 
pahannock, in the N. E. angle of the 
countA?-, and on the Piedmont stage 



Moii.day in every month: — Quartcrlj/ixoMia from Washington to Milledge- 
in March, Mai/, August and Novem-\\\\\e, Georgia. The tOAA'n is built on 
her. Judge Field holds his Circuit one street, and contains 43 dwelling 
Superior Court of Law and Chancery houses, 1 Baptist house of Avorship, 1 
on.i\\eZrd of June and ilh of Norein-]FeYn^\it association, for the purpose 
ber. [See above, on this page.] of educating young men for the min- 

Grantley's p. O. 116 ms. fromJstry, 1 Elementary school Avith 50 
R., and 59 ms. S. of W. scholars : also, 3 mercantile stores, 3 

Griffinsburg. P. O. 103 ms. from taA'erns, 1 tanyard, 1 hat m.anufactory, 



R., and 85 ms. S. W. of W., situated 
on the main road leading from Thorn- 
ton's Gap in the Blue Ridge, to 
Fredericksburo-, 18 ms. from the 



3 boot and shoe factories, a wagon 
maker, carriage maker, and 3 house 
carpenters. Population 300; of Avhom 
2 are physicians. ire's Sulphur 



former, and 50 ms. from the latter, 8 Springs, a place of considerable resort 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— CUMBERLAND. 



159 



in summer, arc only 2h ms. from Jcf- 
fersonton. 

Locust Dalk, P. O. 8G ms. from 
R., and 86 ms. S. S. W. of W. 

Midway, P. O. 9") ms. from R., 
and 68 S. S. W. of W. 

RicHARDsviLLE, formerly Smilhh 
Tavern, P: O. 95 ms. from R., and 
71 S. W. of W., situated on the stage 
road from Fredericksburg to Fairfax, 
18 ms. distant from each; in the gold 
region and near some of thebest mines 
yet discovered in Virginia. 

Racoon Ford, P. O., situated im^i 
mediately on the banks of Rapid Ann,! 
15 ms. by water above its confluence; 
with the Rappahannock, 30 W. of] 
Fredericksburg, 15 N. E. of Orange 
C. H., and 10 S. E. of Fairfax. It 
contains 8 dwelling houses, a mer- 
cantile store, house of entertainment, 
merchant mill, grist mill, saAv and 
shingle mill, wool carding machine 
and cotton gin, boot and shoe factory, 
a tailor, blacksmith, wagon maker, 
and carriage maker. Population 35 
whites, and 45 blacks. Total 80. 

Rexeville, p. O. 101 ms. from R. 
and 79 S. W. by W. of W., situated: 
handsomely on a healthy, and high! 
position, in the midst of a fertile coun- 
Xry, on 1 of the north branches of the 
Rappahannock, and immediately on! 
the stage road, Avhich leads from' 
Washington to Charlottesville, 60 ' 
ms. from the latter. It contains 12 
dwelling houses^, a mercantile store, 
new house of entertainment, tanyard,! 
shoe factory, cooper's shop, Avheel- 
wright, Wacksmith; and has a school 
in the neighbourhood. This littlei 
village is rapidly improving, the vi-j 
cmity being occupied by wealthy and] 
industrious farmers. I 



I Rock Mills, P. O. 113 ms. from 

R., and 75 S. AV. of W. 
I Stkvensburg, p. V. in the south- 
iern part of the county, 95 ms. from R. 
land 83 ms. S. W. of W.— beautifully 
situated between the Rapid Ann, and 
Rappahannock river, on the stage 
road from Fairfax to Fredericksburg, 
7 ms. distant from the former, and 30 
from the latter. It contains 20 dwel- 
ling houses, 2 mercantile stores, and 
1 house of worship, free for all de- 
nominations. Population 150 per- 
sons; of whom 2 are physicians. This 
place was formerly much resorted to 
by inhabitants of the lower counties 
during the sickly seasons. 

Thornton's Gap, P. O. 120 ms. 
N. W. of R., and 102 ms. N. W. by 
W. of W., situated in the western part 
of the county in the gap of the Blue 
Ridge. 

TiioMPSoNviLLE, P. O. 104 ms. 
from R., and 75 S. W. by W. of W. 
It contains 7 dwelling houses, 2 houses 
of worship, 1 Baptist, and 1 free for 
all denominations, 3 mercantile stores^ 
and 2 blacksmith's shops ; there are 
3 merchant mills in the vicinity. Pop-- 
ulation 70. There is a benevolent 
societ}', which holds its meetings at 
this place. 

Waylandsburg, P. V. 102 ms. 
from R. and 84 S. W. of W., situated 
on Crooked Run, Avhich separates 
Madison from Culpeper, near the 
road between Fairfax and Orange C 
H., 8 ms. W. of the former, 74 from; 
the latter, and 8 N. E. of Madison C 
H. It contains 18 houses, 1 of Avhich 
is a merchant mill with 4 pair of stones, 
and 1 a saw mill. Population 13. 



CUMBERLAND. 



Cumberland was created by the House of Burgess's in' 1748, from a part 
of Goochland. It is bounded N. by .Fames river, which separates it from 
Fluvanna, and Goochland, E. by Powhatan, S. E. and S. by the Appomat- 



160 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— CUMBERRLAND. 



tox which separates it from Amelia, and Prince Edward, and W. by Buck- 
ingham. Length 32 ms., mean breaith 10, and area 323 sq. ms. extending- 
in lat. from 37^ 12' to 37° 39' N. and long, from 1° 13' to 1° 40' W. of 
W. C. The slope of this county is N. E., and the central part is drained 
by Willis's river, which empties into the James, a few miles above Carters- 
ville. This stream is navigable by boats to Curdsville, a small town in 
Buckingham: (See Buckingham.) This county is also watered by 4 
creeks, which rise in the upper part within 3 or 4 miles of each other, near 
Rains' tavern. Bear branch empties into Willis's river. Great Guinea 
after running about 20 miles in the county empties into the Appomattox. 
Angle creek about 12 miles long, and Green creek, about 3; both of which 
afford much fertile bottom lands; — and Little Gunea, all flow into the Ap- 
pomattox. The Appomattox waters, and bounds the southern part of the 
county from Povv'hatan to Buckingham, about 30 miles, and the James 
river on the north, by making a considerable bend, bounds and waters 
about the same distance. 

The surface is undulating, and the soil productive. The staples are in- 
dian corn, wheat and tobacco. The latter has been considered the princi- 
pal article, but of late the farmers have turned their attention more to the 
cultivation of wheat; by which the lands have much improved, and the im- 
provement is still progressing. 

Iron and coal have recently been discovered, on the Appomattox, near 
Farmville. The prevailing religious sects, are Presbyterians, Baptists, and 
Methodists: — there are 10 houses of public worship, and 4 resident min- 
isters: — there are 4 flour manufacturing, and a number of grist mills in the 
county. Population 1820, 11,023—1830, 11,690. Cumberland belongs 
to the 8th judicial circuit, and 4th district. Taxes paid in 1833, $2,881 80,in 
'34, on lots. $59 13— land, $1,458 19—3850 slaves, 8962 50—2,161 horses, 
$129 66— 7 studs, $134— 50 coaches, $123 15—34 carryalls, $46 55— 
107 gigs, $68 70. Total $2,985 88. Expended in educating poor chil- 
dren in 1832, $376 73— in 1834, $196 38. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST-OFFICES, &r. 



Ca Ira, P. V. in the W part of 
the county, 72 ms. S. W. of R., and 
148 from W., situated 45 ms. E. N. 
E. of Lynchburg, on the N. side of 
Willis's river,5 ms.W. oi Cumberland 
C. H, 16 N. E. of Farmville, and 18 
ms.from Buckingham C.H. surround- 
ed by a fertile country. Willis's ri- 
ver is navigable to Curdsville, in 
Buckingham, 12 ms. above this place, 
and 60 ms. from its mouth. Ca Ira 
contains about 40 dwelling houses, 3 
mercantile stores — selling $40 000 
worth of goods annually, a merchant 
mill, which grinds from 28 to 30,000 
bushels of wheat in the grinding sea- 
son, a tobacco warehouse, at v;hich 
from 3 to 500 hogsheads of tobacco 



are annually received, a house of wor- 
ship free for all denominations, 2 ta- 
verns, and a masonic hall: — there are 
also among the mechanics, 2 tailors, 
2 wheehvrights, 2 blacksmiths, and 2 
plough manufacturers. 

This village was until lately un- 
healthy, and nearly depulated upon 
two different occasion: this was attri- 
buted to the pond attached to the man- 
ufacturing mill, which covered 200 
acres of ground, and nearly sur- 
rounded the village, and produced 
very severe bilious attacks. The 
dam has now been removed 2 ms. up 
the stream, and the water brought 
down by a navigable canal : the old 
pond has been filled up, and it.s site 



EASTERN VIRGINIA 



— DINV 



^VIDDIE. 



161 



yields immense 
and health is re- 



cultivated, Avhich 

crops to the owners 

stored to the villarrc. Population 210 

Three mails a week are received. 

Cartersvili.e, p. V. on the right 
bank of James river, 47 ras. W. of R 
and 12:2 from W., situated in a fertile 
and healthy country. It contains 50 
dwelling houses, 1 house of worship 
free for all denominations, a common 
school, a merchant mill, which grinds 
from 20 to 30,000 bushels of wheat 
annually, 5 mercantile stores, 3 gro- 
ceries, 2 builders of thrashing ma- 
chines, 2 lanyards, 1 saddler and 
many other mechanics, such as Avheel- 
wrights, plough makers, blacksmiths, 
shoe makers, &.c. Considerable trade 
is carried on in wheat and other pro- 
duce of the surrounding country. — 
Population 300 souls; of whom 1 is 
an attorney, and 2 physicians. 

CUMBERLAND, C. 11. P. V. 
55 ms. from R., and 140 from W. 
situated on a high and healthy ridge 
between Willis's river and the Appo- 
mattox; commanding a beautiful view 
of the Blue Ridge. It contains be- 
sides the county buildings, 5 dwelling 
houses, 1 mercantile store, 2 taverns, 
a saddler, boot and shoe factory, tai- 
lor, and various other mechanics. 
There is a house of worship in the 



vicinity, free for all denominations. 
The surrounding county is tolerably 
fertile, producing corn, wheat, oats, 
tobacco, &c. Population 30 whites 
and GO blacks. Total 90. 

County Courts are held on the ilh 
Motiday in every month; — Quarterly 
in February, May, July, and October. 
Judge Daniei., holds his Circuit Su- 
perior Court of Law and Chancery, 
on the \st of April and September. 

Lang horn's Tavern, P. O. 61 
ms. W. of R., and 146 from W. 

Raines', P. O. 69 ms. W. of R., 
and 154 from W. 

Stonev Point Mills, P. O. in 
the southern part of the county, 61 
ms. S. W. by W. of R., and 146 from 
W., situated on the Appomattox river, 
60 ms. above Petersburg, 16 ms. below 
Farmville. and 5 ms. S. of Cnmbcr- 
Innd C. H. It contains 20 houses, 1 
large manufacturing mill, 2 mercan- 
tile stores, a wheelwright, blacksmith, 
coopei', and tailor Tobacco of as 
good quality as any in Virginia, is 
raised in this ncighbourhoofl. The 
soil is susceptible of high improve- 
ment. The Avater power is sufficient 
for iTiachinery of any extent. Popu- 
lation 90 persons; I of whom is a 
physician. 



DINWIDDIE. 

Dinwiddie was created by the Legislature in 1752, from a part of 
Prince George. It is bounded E. by Prince George, — S. E. by Sussex, — 
S. by Nottoway river, which separates it from Brunswick, — W. by Notto- 
way, — ^nd N. W. by Amelia. Dinwiddie is in form a hexagon, with a 
diameter of about 28 miles; — area about 616 sq. miles. It is divided near- 
ly into equal parts by the parallel of 37° N. lat. — its long, lies between 0*^ 
33' and 1° 3' W. of W. C. The northern part of the county, about one- 
fourth of the whole, slopes north and is drained by the Appomattox. The 
remainder inclines S. E. is drained by Monks Creek, S/oney, Sapony, and 
other tributaries of Nottoway river. — The surface is undulating. — Popu- 
lation in 1820, 13,792— in 1830, 21,801. Dinwiddie belongs to the second 
judicial circuit, and first district. Taxes paid in 1833, $6538, 50 — in 
'1834, on lots, $2736 59— land, $1863 68—5962 slaves, $1496 50—2673 
horses, $160 33— 7 studs, $258 00— 134 coaches, $348 25— 49 carryalls, 
21 



162 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— DIN WIDDIE. 



$49 55—233 gigs, $135 83. Total, $7042 78 Expended in educating 
poor children in 1832, $412 94 ; in 1833, $217 68. 

TOWNS, VILLAC4ES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



DINWIDDIE C. H. & P. O. sit- 
uated on Stoney Creek, 15 ms. S. W. 
of Peterburg, 40 from R. and 162 
from W. County courts are held on 
the third Monday in every month. 
Quarterly, March, May, August and 
.Xovcfnber. Judge May holds his 
Superior Court of Law and Chan- 
cery on l5^ April and September. 

GooDwvNsviLLE, P. O. 47 m's. 
S. S. W. of R. and 169 from W. 

Harrisville, or Wyoming, 54 
m's S. of R. and 176 from W., situat- 
ed in the S. E. corner of the county, 
near Nottoway river, on the main 
southern stage road. It contains a 
mercantile store, blacksmith shop, 
and wheelwright. In the vicinity 
there are 2 extensive manufacturing 
mills ; and the surrounding country 
is very thickly settled. 

PETERSBURG, Fort of Entry, 
and P. O. 22 miles S. of R. arid 
144 S. S. W. of W. lat. 37^ 13' and 
long. 24° W. of W. C: situated on 
the right or southern bank of Appo- 
mattox river — 12 ms. above its junc- 
tion with James river in the northern 
angle of the county, where it joins 
Prince George and Chesterfield ; so 
that a part of the town is in each of 
those counties. This depot is well 
situated to sustain a high commercial 
rank amongst the ports of Virginia. 
The harbor admits vessels of consi- 
derable draught, and the adjacent 
country is well peopled and cultivated. 
The falls of Appomadox near which 
the city stands, affords an illimitable 
water power, whilst a canal obviates 
the impediment to navigation. Pre- 
vious to the year 1815 the buildings 
were nearly all of wood, but in the 
summer of that year nearly all those 
situated on the rno.st commercial 
streets were consumed by fire. Since 
that event the town ha.? been rebuilt 



with neat and substantial brick houses 
and, in value as well as appearance, 
is very much improved. The num- 
ber of houses besides the county 
buildings, which are; handsome, may 
be estimated at about 800. There 
are 7 houses of public worship, be- 
longing to Episcopalians, Methodists, 
Baptists and Presbyterians, — a Ma- 
sonic Hall, female orphan asylum, se- 
veral common schools and one free 
school ; the latter is on the Lancastc- 
rian plan and was endowed principal- 
ly by a legacy left to the town, for 
that purpose by a benevolent indivi- 
dual, (Da\'id Anderson,) and is 
called the ''Anderson Seminary.^'' 
There are six tobacco factories, six 
manufacturing flour mills, 1 brass and 
cast-iron foundry, 2 earthen-ware pot- 
teries, 2 cotton-seed-oil mills, numer- 
ous mercantile stores, and 4 druggist 
shops. The principal mechanical 
pursuits are — 2 printing offices, by 
which 2 weekly papers are issued, 
and considerable book-work-printing 
done, 4 carriage manufacturies, 5 
wheelwrights, 4 cabinet makers, 3 
jersey wagon makers, 3 brick mold- 
ers, 1 stone cutter and mill stone 
maker, ^ tanneries, 5 saddlers, 15 
blacksmiths, 4 coppersmiths and tin- 
plate workers, 3 jewellers and watch 
makers, and many house carpenters, 
tailors, hatters, milleners, and mantua 
makers. Petersburg is now rapidlv 
increasing in bvisiness in consequence 
of its Rail Road, to the Roanohe 
river, which is about sixty miles long, 
and affords an opening by which 
largequantitiesof produce are brought 
to this market from the upper Roan- 
oke and from the interior of North 
Carolina, and by which goods are 
with much facility returned in ex- 
change, as the cars run daily to the 
Roanoke and buck again. The irrade 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— DINWIDDIE. 



169 



of the road, with the excejDtiou of two 
or three planes, with an ascent of 
twenty-seven or thirty feet per mile, 
is very favorable to the use of the 
locomotive engine ; and their success 
with this kind of power has not been 
surpassed in the country. They have 
now three engines upon the road, a 
part of which have been at work up- 
wards of nine months, and made their 
trips with as much regularity as could 
have been expected from horse pow- 
er. One of those, the "Liverpool," 
is probably, for her weight, the most 
effective engine of the country. This, 
and one of the other engines on this 
road, were constructed by M. Burry, 
of Liverpool, who has also furnished 
two engines for one of the Schuylkill 
rail roads, which we are informed work 
equally well. The proprietors of 
this road consider it as part of the 
great line of communication from 
north to south, and look to its ultinmte 
connexion with the Charleston rail 
road, by similar works through North 
Carolina. Another channel by^ 
which much produce is brought to 
this market, is the Upper Appo- 
moltox CariaL — through'which there 
is a constantly increasnig trade. 
To this market there have been 
brought in one year 40,000 bales of 
cotton, 5,000 hogsheads of tobacco 
and more than 100,000 bushels of 
wheat, besides many other articles. 

Petersburg is also much indebted 
for her pro.sperity to her cotton fac- 
tories ; of Avhich at present, there are 
three: — The first established was that 
of the Petersburg Manufacturing 
Companv, in the year 1828. This 
factory commenced spinning in the 
fall of that year with 500 spindles, 
and the number was gradually in- 
creased, until it now runs 2500, which 
daily spin about 1200 pounds of j'arn, 
or three hundred and sixty thousand 
pounds per annum. This yarn is 
made of the best cotton brought to 
the market, and the most of it is sold 
in ^-arn itself without further manu- 



facture ; some part of it is woven at 
the factory into a heavy cotton cloth 
called "oznaburgs," and is stamped 
''Virginia cloth,'^ in consequence of 
the likeness between this and the cot- 
ton cloth formerly so well known in 
this state by that name. This facto- 
ry gives employment to none but 
white persons, and has constantly 
employed about 110 operatives, who 
are mostly young girls, of good char- 
acter and industrious habits, who re- 
ceive in vi'eekly wages about thirteen 
thousand dollars per annum. — The 
Mercha?its' Manufacturing Compa- 
ny/ has two factories, one of which is 
on a small scale, and has for some 
years been in operation, the other re- 
cently erected, has but lately begun 
to spin ; it has a commodious house 
well planned, and runs 3500 spindles 
and a number of looms capable of 
weaving from 1500 to 2000 yards of 
cotton cloth per day and employs 
about 200 operatives. It is in con- 
templation to erect, ere long, two other 
cotton factories, on a large scale, and 
as the water power here is great, the 
raw material plenty, and operatives 
readily procured, it is probable that 
at no distant day, Petersburg will be 
a considerable manufacturing town. 
— From the town, a considerable for- 
eign trade is carried on with Eng- 
land, France, Holland, and Germanyi 
and goods of all descriptions are her^ 
plenty and cheap. Large ships load 
at City Point. The navigation from 
City Point to this place until lately 
was bad, afPjrding not more than four 
feet water — but within a few years 
works have been completed on the 
river, Avhich have deepened it to 
about seven feet. — At one time this 
town was considered unhealthy, but 
by draining and filling up marshes, 
and by other improvements, it has 
now become as salubrious as any^ part 
of lower Virginia; and has the char- 
acter of being hospitable and patri- 
otic ; and a very delightful place of 
residence. The Bank of Virginia 



I6i 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— DINWIDDIE. 



and Farmers' Bank of Virginia have 
each a branch at this place. It pos- 
sesses also an insurance office, and 
custom house. Population 1830, 
8,322. Co)-porafloyi courts are held 
on the third Monday in every month ; 
Quarterly in March, May, August 
and November. Judge May holds 
his Circuit Superior Court of Law 
and Chancery on the first of April 
and September. 



Poplar Grove, P. O. 39 ms. S. 
of R. and 161 from W. 

RicHiEviLLE, P.O. 62 ms. S. of R. 
and 164 from W. 

Safpony Creek, Cross Roads, 
and P. O. 44 ms. from R. and 166 
from W. In the southern part of the 
county, 22 ms. S. S. W. of Peters- 
burg. The creek is a branch of Sto- 
ney Creek", and the latter of Notto- 
way river. 



EI.IZABETII CITY. 

ElTzabeth City was one of the eight original shires into which Vir- 
ginia was divided in 1634. — It is bounded E. by the Chesapeake, S. by 
Hampton Roads, N. by Back river, Avhich separates it from York, and W. 
by Warwick.— Its form is nearly that of a square, about 18 miles on each 
side; — area 64 square miles. It extends from 37° 02' to 37° 08' N. lat. 
and from 0° 37' to 0° 47' E. of W. C. Population, 1820, 3,789—1830, 
5,053. — It belongs to the 3d judicial circuit, and 2nd district. Taxes paid 
in 1833, $794 24— in 1834, on lots, $184 62— on land, $316 63—912 
slaves, $228 00—408 horses, $24 43—3 studs, $71 00— 7 coaches, $16 
00—49 carryalls, $49 5.5—233 gig.s, $135 83. Total, $7042 78. Ex- 
pended in educating poor children in 1832, $45 39 — in 1834, no report. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 

of their labor in their own town; but 
the Fortifications at Old Point Com- 
fort, and the Rip Raps, have been for 
sometime past the principal source of 
revenue to tlie inhabitants both of the 
town and county, by the wages given 
for negro laborers. Hampton is as 
healthy as any town in lower Virgi- 
nia. jPopulation in 1830, 1120. — 
There are 2 attorneys, and 4 physi- 
cians. 

County Courts arc held on the 4//t 
Thursday in every month: — Quar- 
terly in March, June, August and 
November. 

Judge Upshur holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of L^aw and Chancery 
on the 24/A of April and 19///, of Sep- 
tember. 

Old Point Comfort, or For- 
tress Monroe, cape and P. O. 12 
ms. in a direct liije a little W. of N. 
Norfolk, 3 ni-s. S. E. of Hampton, the 



HAMPTON, P. V. and county 

seat, 96 ins. from R. and 199 S. E. of 
W. Hampton is a sea port, situated 
on Hampton Roads, 2^ miles from 
Fortress Monroe, 18 from Norfolk, 24 
from York Town, and 36 from Wil- 
liamsburg. — It contains about 130 
houses; 2 Methodist, 1 Baptist, and 1 
Episcopalian meeting house, 1 Aca- 
demy and 1 private school, 6 dry good 
stores, 10 grocery stores, 2 taverns, 3 
castor oil manufactories, (2 in town 
and 1 adjacent.) The principal me- 
chanical pursuits arc, shoe making, 
blacksmiths' work, house-carpentry, 
and ship-buildiug. Hampton has for 
some time been declining: — There is 
no commerce or inland trade to sup- 
port it. Hampton is the place of re- 
sidence for nearly all the pilots for 
James river, and the neighborhood of 
Norfolk; and when trade was brisk, 
they circulated nearly all the proceeds 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— ELIZABETH CITY. 



1G5 



county seat, and 202 ms. S. S. E. of 
W. C. The promontory, particular- 
ly called Old Point Cointbrt, is almost 
exactly on kit. 37", and with the op- 
posing- point, AVillioughby, on the 
riglit shore, forms the real mouth of 
James river, the intervening strait se- 
parating- Lynhaven bay from Hamp- 
ton Roads. 

The channel which leads in from 
the Capes of Virginia to Hampton 
Roads, is, at Old Point Comfort, re- 
duced to a very narrow line. The 
shoal water, whicli, under the action 
of the sea, and reacted upon by the bar, 
is kept in an unremitting ripple, has 
given the name of Rip Raps to this 
place. When the bar is passed, Hamp- 
ton Roads, which extend to Norfolk, 
about eighteen miles distant, into 
which James river, Elizabeth river, 
and Nansemond Mouth empty, afford 
the finest anchorange in the world, 
and in them its navies might ride with 
perfect safety. With a view of mak- 
ing this a secure retreat for ships of 
war and for our commerce, in any fu- 
ture contest with a naval power. Fort 
Monroe was built on the point, on the 
right side of the channel at the en- 
trance of the Roads — and the castle 
of the Rip Raps is directly opposite 
the point, at the distance of about 1900 
yards. The two forts will complete- 
ly command the channel, and it will 
be impossible for a single ship of war 
to pass without the permission of the 
power holding the fortresses. They 
are so constructed as to present im- 
mense batteries of cannon upon an 
approaching ship, from the moment 
she comes in reach, from the Capes, 
and throughout all the bendings of 
the cha)inel it must still be under the 
power of the cannon: for the forts 
present a new aspect at every turn, 
and in all probability the interdicted 
ship would be a wreck, or a confla- 
gration, from the hot shot throAvn into 
her, before she completed half the cir- 
cuit of the channel. 

There is much salutary experience, 



bought however dearly, in the lessons 
of the late -war. These Avaters were 
then the resort of the British fleets, 
and while all American vessels were 
either driven from their own harbors, 
or captured, the enemy made himself 
at home here — sent detachments to 
Baltimore and Washington — ravaged 
the shores of the Chesapeake' — burnt 
our Capitol and Navy Yards, and 
laid the whole country under contri- 
bution: The erection of the two 
Forts at this central point of our sea- 
board, gives us a refuge to our naval 
force, if driven in by superior num- 
bers, and will, in effect, not only oc- 
clude Hampton Roads to the enemy, 
and shut him out from James river 
and Norfolk, our naval depot, but 
must deter him ever venturing up the 
Chesapeake bay. If such an attempt 
were made, the first calm would put 
the most powerful fleet of an enemy 
completely at the mercy of a kw steam 
frigates or steam batteries, which, by 
means of their self-moving power, 
would be enabled to take such posi- 
tion as suited them, and to set fire to 
the ships of the enemy with hot shot, 
or cut them off in detail. The shel- 
ter of these forts, too, would enable a 
few ships, lying in security under their 
guns, to sally out and take advantage 
of any storm which might separate a 
blockading force, exposed to the acci- 
dents of an open sea. 

These circvunstances give great im- 
portance to the Avorks which are to 
form the gates at Hampton Roads — 
and, as a consequence, in a great de- 
gree to the whole Chesapeake bay. 
Fort Monroe is already finished, and 
is at this moment in admirable condi- 
tion, if its armaments were completed. 

The Rip Raps structure, is a mon- 
ument, worthy of the people who have 
lavished their means in its erection, 
and of the genius of the engineers by 
whom it was planned. The area of 
the structure, as originally staked off 
includes five acres; a great part of 
which was 22 feet below the surface 



16G 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— ELIZABETH CITY. 



of the sea, and that nearest the surface^ 
18 feet. To get a foundation above 
water for the Fort or Castle, an Island 
has been raised, by throwing rocks 
into the water, until, by gradual ac- 
cumulation, it has emerged above the 
tides. The rock of which this Island 
is formed, has been brought from great 
distances, and at a vast expense. 

After a foundation was obtained for 
the Castle above high water, the build- 
ing of the Castle was begun, and car 
ried up so as to form the first embra 
sures. It was found that the settling 
of the artificial mound of stone crack 
ed the Avails. The building Avas, 
therefore, discontinued; but immense 
masses of granite have since been 
brought and lodged upon the lines of 
the work, that the weight of the ma- 
terial, might be employed in consoli- 
dating its foundations. For some 
years this marine pyramid sunk be- 
tween six and eight inches; during 
the last year but one, although press- 
ed with the weight of all the material 
gathered for the superstructure, it set- 
tled about three inches. 

The present aspect of the place is 
rough and savage, and when the surge 
rushes in among the hollow piles of 
granite, and the wind whistles among 
the naked spars, which are planted 
round the walls for the support of the 
scaffolding, the music of the surround- 
ing elements of sea and air, is quite 
in keeping with the dreary, desolate 
spot, which, at a distance, looks like 
a Gibralter, beaten down by cannon- 
ade, and fallen prostrate in the sea. 

Nothing could add more to the 
grandeur, of what has been justly 
called the American Medi{erranca7i, 
than the elevation of the Castle at 
Rip Raps — the rising of this giant of 
the flood, from the waves, as contem- 
plated by Commodore WarrentonJ 
Commodore Elliot, General Armis-! 
toad, General Bernard, General Swiftj 



and Major McRee, the commissioners 
and engineers, in whose design the 
work originated. The ancients tell 
us that Venus rose from the sea, but 
it would seem a much fitter element, 
to give birth to the god of war; and 
never Avas there a nobler scene, or 
nobler temple, than that appropriated 
for his cradle, by the American peo- 
ple at the Rip Raps. He Avill appear 
here, not like the goddess of love, 
borne in a shell upon a summer's sea, 
but upon a tOAver of strength amidst 
the noise of restless surges, — a fit 
emblem of the American people, 
Avhose martial strength belongs alike 
to the land and to the ocean. 

It is a circumstance Avorth notice, 
that the material for the structure of 
the Castle of the Rip Raps is drawn 
from most of the commercial states of 
the Union. In walking over the piles 
you behold the dark grey granite of 
Maine — thcAvhitish blue and the black 
speckled granite of Connecticut — the 
red free stone of the same state — the 
pied granite of the Susquehannah — 
the deep blue of the Little Falls of 
Potomac — and the ash colored of the 
James river. 

In this edifice, Avhich is to form a 
strong hold in a central position — de- 
fend our great naA-al depot, and to pro- 
tect our naA-al poAA'er OA^er the ocean; 
and especially to afford a place of re- 
fuge to the commerce of the nation, 
each commercial state may point to a 
portion of the blended strength Avhich 
it has contributed to the common 
structure. The castle, at the Rip 
Raps, should then be called, as AA-ell 
from its use, as from its origin, the 
Casllonf the Federal Union — and 
Avhen attacked by foreign or domestic 
assailants, it should run up Avith 
the ensign of "the Federal Union," 
the Avatch Avord " it mist be preserve 
ed:' 



EASTERN VIRCUNIA— ESSEX. 167 

ESSEX. 

Essex was created by the Legislature in 1692, from a part of (Old) 
Rappahannock Co. It is bounded E. by the Rappahannock river, which 
separates it from Richmond, — S. E. by Middlesex, — S. and S. W. ];y King 
and Q,ueen, — W. and N. W. by Caroline, — and N. by the Rappahannock, 
■which divides it froni King George and Westmoreland. Length 28 miles, 
mean breadth 10, and area 280 sq. miles. Lat. 38° intersects the meridian of 
Washington, about one-third of the length of the county from its northern 
extremit}'. Surface in the Avestern part moderately hilly, and soil general- 
ly sandy and barren except on the rivers and creeks. Population 1820, 
9,999 — 1830, 10,531. Essex belongs to the fourth judicial circuit, and 
second district. Taxes paid in 1833, $2452 26— in 1834 on lots, $55 10 
—land, $1124 96—3235 slaves, $808 75—1476 horses, $88 66— studs, 
$118 00—38 coaches $101 75—1 stage $3— 21 caryalls, $24 10—178 
gigs, $99 15. Total $2996 18. Expended in education of poor children 
in 1834, $183 72— in 1833, $300 74. 

TOWNS, VILLAC4ES, POST OFFICES, &c. 

BoWKRs, P. O. 62 ms. N. E. bylN. E. of R. and 109 S. E. of W. 
E. of R. and 121 from W. in the:lat. 37° 58' N.; long 11° 10' E. W. 
southeastern part of the couuty. C. The situation is low and flat, but 



DuNNsviLLE, P. O. 56 ms. S. E. 
from R. and 115 from W. 



as there is not much marsh land in 
the neighborhood, it is not very sick- 



LoRETTO, P. V. 69 ms. N. E. from ly. It was formerly a place of con- 
R. and 92 from W. situated on the siderable trade, as large vessels can 
mail route from TappahanHOck{o¥xc-'Asce)L\^ some distance above if, but 
dericksburg, about 40 miles fromthelike mostof the villages on tide wa- 
latter and 20 from the former; and a'ter in Virginia it is not increasing, 
mile from the Rappahannock river, jbecause the business formerly trans- 
It contains 20 dwelling houses, 1 -acted by them directly with foreign 
Episcopal church, 2 mercantile stores, Icountries, is now transacted through 
a tavern, shoemaker, blacksmith, tai-'the medium of the cities. It is about 
lor, bricklayer, painter, and several 50 miles from the open Chesapeake 
bourse carpenters. Population 50jbay. It contains 29 dwelling houses, 
persons, of whom one is a physician. '4 mercantile stores, 2 druggists, one 

Lloyds, P. O. 62 ms. from R. and'house of worship free for all denomi- 
97 from W. i nations, 2 hotels, a female seminary 

Miller's Tavern, P. O. 40 ms. of the first order, which has been cs- 
from R. and 119 S. of W. jtablished 15 years, and received an 

Montague, P. V. 67 ms. S. E. byunusual share of public favor ; in this 
E. from R. and 126 from W. A:all the usual female accomplishments 
small village in the southern part of are taught, whilst every attention is 
the county, on the stage road from'paid to the moral and religious duties 
Tappahannock, to Urbanna, and 2 of the pupils, by the pious and ac- 
m's from the Rappahannock river. jcomplished lady who presides over 
Population 50 ; of whom one is an the establishment. — The mechanics 
attorney, and one a physician. .are, a jeweller, milliner and mantua 

TAPPAtlANNOCK, P. V. and maker, 2 tailors, a saddle and harness 
scat of justice ; situated on the right;makcr, a coach maker, and 2 boot and 
bank "of the Rappahannock, 50 milcshhoe makers. — There is a Ferry 



108 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— FAIRFAX. 



across the Rappahannoclv at this point. 1 in March, May, Angi/sl and Novem 



Population 1830, 280. Three attor- 
neys, and five physicians reside here. 
County courts are hekl on the third 
Monday in every month : Quarlcrly 



bcr. Judge Brown holds his Cir- 
cuit Superior Court of Law and 
Chancery, on the Alh of May and 
October, 



FAIRFAX. 

Fairfax was created by the Legislature in 1742, from apart of Prince 
William. It is bounded E. partly by the Potomac river, which separates it 
from Prince George's Co., of Maryland, and partly by the District of Co- 
lumbia, — S. by the Potomac and Occoquan river, which separates it from 
Prince William, — W. by Loiidoun,— and N. by the Potomac, separating 
it from Montgomery Co. Maryland. Length from S. E. to N. W. 25 ms. 
mean breadth 180 — area 450 square miles; it extends in lat. from 35° 3G' 
to 39° 03' N. and in long, from 0° 03' to 0° 33' W. of W. C. The sur- 
face is hilly and broken ; the soil is in some places good, but much of it 
is sterile. Population 1820, 11,404; in 1830, 9,204. Fairfax belongs to 
the 6th judicial circuit and 3d district. Taxes paid in 1833, $3070 00 — 
in 1834 on lots, $56 72— land, $2144 63—1896 slaves, 474 00—2618 
horses, $157 08—6 studs, $35 00—44 coaches, $90 00—31 caryalls, 
$31 00— 12 gigs, $'7 75. Total, 2996 18. Expended in educating poor 
children in 1832, $435 50— in 1833, $440 70. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &lc. 



Centreville, p. V. in the wes- 
tern part of the county, 143 ms. from 
R., and 27 S. W. of W. This village 
is situated on the Fauquier, and Alex- 
andria turnpike road, about 6 ms. from 
ihe line dividing the counties of Lou- 
doun, and Prince William. It derives 
its name from its central position, being 
about cqui-distant from Leesburg, 
Middleburg, Warrcnton, Washington, 
Georgetown and Alexandria. Its situ- 
ation is elevated and highly pictu- 
resqiie,a(rording one of the best moun- 
tain prospects in the state of Virginia. 
It has always been remarkable for the 
salubrity of its air, and the health of its 
inhabitants. It contains 30 dwelling 
houses, 1 Methodist meeting house, 2 
taverns, 3 mercantile stores, 1 com- 
mon school, and a well organized 
Sunday school. The mechanics are 
2 tanners, 1 saddler, 4 boot and shoe 
manufacturers, 1 wheelwright, 2 black- 
smiths, 1 cabinet maker, 2 house car- 



penters, and 1 tailor. For some time 
past this village has been declining; 
but the spirit of industry and enter- 
prize at present manifested by its in- 
habitants, justifies the hope of a more 
favourable state of things. Population 
220 ; of whom 2 are attorneys, and 3 
phj'sicians. 

Dronesville, p. O. 140 ms. from 
R., and 17 from W. 

FAIRFAX C. I-I. P. O. 140 ms. 
from R., and 28 ms. S. W. by W. of 
W. It contains besides the ordinary 
county buildings, 50 dwelling houses, 
for the most part frame buildings, 3 
mercantile stores, 4 taverns, and 1 
common school. The mechanics are 
boot and shoe makers, saddlers, black- 
smiths, tailors, &:.c. Population 200 
persons; of Avhom 4 are attorneys and 
2 physicians. 

County Courts are held on the Zrd 
Monday in every montli ; — Quarterly 
in March, June, Avgvst and NovW, 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— FAIRFAX. 



169 



JuDGi: Scott holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chancery 
on the ^i'lth of May and October. 

MOUNT VERNON, is situated 
8 ms. from Alex;indria, and 15 ms. 
from Vv^ashiag-ton. The house erect- 
ed on this consecrated spot, is of wood, 
cut i\\ imitation of free stone. The 
centre part was buih by Lawrence 
Washington, brother to the General: 
the wings were added by CTeneral 
Wasliington. It is named after Ad- 
miral Vernon, in whose expedition 
Lawrence Washington served. The 
house is 2 stories high and 96 feet in 
length, witli a portico fronting the ri- 
ver, extending tlie whole length of the 
house surmounted by a cupola; the 
grounds are in the same state as left 
by General Washington. 

The house contains on the ground 
floor, 6 rooms and a spacious passage, 
4 of these are of ordinary size: at tlie 
north east is a large room, very lefty, 
with a handsomely sculptured ceiling, 
which contains a very handsome mar- 
ble mantle-piece sent to General 
Washington from Ital}'-, — also a very 
fine organ, on which instrument the 
late Mrs. Washington was an accom- 
plished performer; this room is only 
used for large dinner parties, &c. 
The room, at the south east end of the 
house, is used as a family dining 
room, and contains busts of Monsieur 
Neckar, Paul Jones, and General 
Washington, — also a handsome libra- 
ry, fitted in the wall, with glass cases: 
the books chiefly coiiected by Gene- 
ral Washington. 

The house fronts N. W., the rear 
looking to the river. In front of the 
house is a lawn, containing 5 or 6 
acres of ground, with a serpentine walk 
around it, fringed with shrubbery, 
and planted with poplar. On each 
side of the lawn stands a garden : the 
one on the right is the flower garden, 
and contains two green houses, (one 
built by Gen. Washington, the other 
by Judge Washington,) a hot house, 
and a pinery. It is laid otT in hand- 



some walks, with box-wood borders, 
remarkable for their beauty. It con- 
tains, also, a quantity of fig trees pro- 
ducing excellent fruit — the other is a 
kitchen garden, containing only fruit 
and vegetables. 

About 200 yards from the house, in 
a southerly direction, stands a sum- 
mer house, on the edge of the river 
bank, which is lofty and sloping, and 
clothed with wood to the water's edge. 
The summer house commands a fine 
prospect of the river, and the Mary- 
land shore, — also of the White House 
at a distance of 5 or 6 ms. down the 
river, where an engagement took 
place during the late war, with the 
British vessels which ascended the ri- 
ver. Proceeding from the summer 
house about 150 j'ards, in a westerly 
direction, you come to the vault — a 
plain excavation in the bank, faced 
with brick, and surrounded vrith a 
rough white-washed paling. Several 
loffy oaks stand around it, and small 
red cedar trees grow on the top of the 
tomb. The door and door posts are 
covered with names of visitors. In the 
vault are buried General Washixg- 
TOM and his wife. Judge Washing- 
ton and his loifc, with many relations 
of the family. 

The estate, as owned by Judge 
Washington, consisted of between 3 
and 4000 acres, now divided between 
the Judge's nephews. John Augustine 
V/ashington, owns Mount Vernon 
with the grounds immediately around 
the house, and 1200 acres of land. 
The fallow deer abound in the 
woods. The timber of v/ hich is com- 
posed chiefly of white and black oak, 
! with dogvv'ood, hickory, ash, cedar, 
1&.C., the soil is thin, and rather poor, 
'cultivated chiefly in Indian corn, rye. 
barley, &c. Judge Washington cul- 
tivated the millet to a considerable ex- 
tent ; — he kept many sheep, and found 
them profitable. There are 2 fishe- 
ries on the place, v/here shad and her. 
ring are caught in large quantities, 
'.lount Vernon is healthy during all 



170 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— FAIRFAX. 



the year except the fall, when agues 
and bilious fevers prevail. An intel- 
ligent visiter, connected with the pub- 
lic press, some years since gave to the 
world an interesiiug sketch of a visit 
to Mount Vernon, he remarks, " we 
were conducted over long gravel 
walks, bordered with box, which is 
arrancred and trimmed into the most 



more rare plants we saw the night 
blooming cereus, the guava, from 
which the jelly of that name is made, 
allocs of a gigantic growth, the West 
India plantain, the sweet cassia in 
bloom, the prickley pear, and a thou- 
sand others. They are all tastefully 
arranged in large boxes made for the 
purpose, and nurtured with unceasing 



fanciful figures, and which at the agelattention, requirmg the constant ser- 
vices of two assistants besides the 
chief jjardener. To the north of the 



of 20 years and upwards, still pos 
scsses the vigour and freshness of 
youth. At the extremity of these ex- 
tensive alleys and pleasure grounds, 
ornamented With fruit trees and shrub- 
bery, and clothed in perennial ver- 
dure, stands two hot houses, and as 
many green houses, situated in the 
svmniest part of the garden, and shield- 
ed from the northern winds by a long 
range of wooden buildings, for the ac- 
commodation of servarits. From the 
air of a frosty December morning, we 
were suddenly introduced into the 
tropical climate of these spacious 
houses, where we long sauntered 
among groves of the cofiee tree, le- 
mons lind oranges, all in full bearinf^, 
regailing our senses with the flowers 
and odours of spring." 

""One of the hot houses is appro- 
priated entirely to rearing the pine 
apple which grows in great perfec- 
tion, long rows of which we saw in 
a flourishing and luxuriant condition. 
A stalk produces but a single apple, 
which grows near the ground, in the 
centre of a cluster of tall and spear- 
shaped leaves. Many bushels of le- 
mons and oranges of every variety 
are annually grown, which besides 
furnishing the family with a supply 
of these fruits at all seasons, are dis- 
tributed as a delicacy to their friends, 
or used to administer to the comforts 
of their neighbours in cases of sick- 
ness. The coffee plant thrives well, 
yields abundantly, and in quality is 
said to be equal to the best Mocha. 
The branches under which we walk- 
ed were laden with the fruit, fast ad- 



range of buildings before mentioned, 
is an extensive kitchen garden, sur- 
rounded Avith a hedge of cedar, so 
regularly trimmed, as to present the 
appearance of a verdant wall. At 
every step in these pleasure grounds, 
the thought occurred that the illus- 
trious projector is no more. "There 
was a garden, and in the garden, a 
new sepulchre," says the Scripture. 
The lesson on human pursuits and 
human pleasures, inculcated by this 
concise and beautiful narration of the 
Evangelist, never struck me more 
forcibly than when we left the gate, 
and walked towards the tomb of 
Washington. In passing the house, 
the chamber in which he died Avas 
pointed out to us ; and imagination 
aided by these memorials, soon pre- 
sented the Avhole scene in such dis- 
tinct and vivid colors that we seemed 
almost to follow his remains to the 
grave. The family vault in Avhich 
the dust of the hero reposes, is at the 
distance of perhaps 30 rods from the 
house immediately upon the bank of 
the riA-er. A more romantic and pic- 
turesque site for a tomb can scarcely 
be imagined. BetAvecn it and the 
Potomac, is a curtain of forest trees 
covering the .steep declivity to the 
Avater's edge, breaking the glare of 
the prospect, and yet afibrdingglimpes 
of the river, Avhen the foliage is the 
thickest. The tomb is surrounded 
by several large natiA^e oaks, Avhich 
are venerable by their years, and 
which annually strew the sepulchre 



vancing to maturity. Among the lAvith autumnal leaves, furnishing the 



EASTEPvN VIRGINIA— FAUQUIER. 



171 



most appropriate draptMy for such a 
place, and giving a still deeper im- 
pression to the memento mori. Inter- 
spersed among the oaks, and over 
hanging the tomh, is a copse of red 
cedar; bnt whether native or trans- 
planted, I could not ascertain, its 
ever-green bough.s presents a fine 
contrast to the hoary and leafless 
branches of the oak ; and while the de- 
ciduous foliage of the latter indicates 
the decay of the body, the eternal ver- 
dure of the former furnishes a beau- 



tiful emblem of the immortal spirit. 
7^he sacred and symbolic cassia was 
familiar to Vfashington, and perhaps 
led to the selection of a spot where 
the ever green flourished." 

Pleasant Valley, P. V. 138 ms. 
from R., and 30 ms. VV. of W., situ- 
ated on Little river turnpike road, 10 
ms. above Fairfax C. H. It contains 
10 dwelling houses, a tavern, store, 
and blacksmith shop. Population 20. 

Prospkct Hill, P. O. 132 ms, 
from R., and-9 W. of W. 



FAUQ,UIKR. 

Fauqx'Ier. was created by the legislature in 17;")9, from a part of Prince 
William. It is bounded N. by Loudoun, N. E. and E. by Prince William, 
E. and.S. E. by Stafford, S. and S. W. by the Rappahannock, which sepa- 
rates it from Culpeper, and W. N. W. by the Blue Ridge, which separates 
it from Frederick: — greatest length 4.'3 ms. mean breadth 16, and area 720 
sq. ms.— It extends in lat. from 38° 21' to 39° 02,' and in long, from 0° 32,' 
to 1 "^ 5' W. of W. C". This county possesses very valuable beds of mag- 
nesia, soap stone, and several gold mines, worked vipon an extensive scale. 
The northern part of the county slopes north, and sends it waters to Goose 
creek; but from the neighbourhood of Cobler mountain, near Salem, a ridge 
runs to the S. E. extremity of the county, which divides its Avaters: those on 
the N. E. side flowing N. E. into the Occoquan, and those on the S. W. 
fijwing in a S. E. direction until they reach the Rappahannock. The sur- 
face is agreeably diversified, and the soil when judiciously cultivated, sus- 
ceptible of high improvement, and very productive. Population 1820, 
23,103 — 1830, 26,036. Fauquier belongs to the Qth judicial circuit, and 
3aZ disificl. Taxes paid in 1833, $7,282 69— in 1834, on lots, $293 42— 
land, $1,.'3.58 74— j,903 slaves, $1,475 75—7132 horses, $427 92—28 
studs, $311 00—76 coaches, $191 50—52 carryalls, $62 26—35 gigs, 
1^23 75. Total $7,344 28. No report of school commissioners. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Arnold's Old Place, P. O. 129 
ms. from R., and 73 from W. 

Barnett.s' Mills, P. O. 93 ms. 
from R., and 68 from W., situated on 
the north side of the Rappahannock 
river, about 6 ms. above its junction 
with the Rapid Ann. It contains 12 
dwelling houses, a Presbyterian house 
of worship, a mercantile store, an ex- 
tensive flour manufacturing mill, 40 
fe?t squire, and 5 stories high, which 



makes annually from 3 to 4000 bar- 
rels of flour, a grist, and a saw mill 
which saws from 2 to 300,000 feet of 
plank annually. The mechanical 
pursuits are various, such as millers, 
mill-wrights, coopers, boot and shoe 
makers, blacksmiths, &ic. Popula- 
tion 30. 

The Rappahannock is at this place 
100 yards wide, and is now being 
made navigable for boats to Freda- 



172 



EASTERN VIRGINIA—FAUQUIER. 



ricksbursr.'by the RappaJiannock Com- 
fany. The navigation is to extend 
50 ms. above Barnett's mills, and will 
greatly enhance the value of watt-r 
power at this and other points on the 
river. The water power at this 
place is created by a dam 5 feet high, 
situated half a mile above the mills, 
and conveyed to them by a canal cut 
in some places through the solid rock, 
to the depth of 25 or 30 feet, the fall 
gained by the dam and canal is 16 
feet. Tijere has recently been erected 
at this place a stavipijig mill, for the 
purpose of stamping gold ores, ob- 
tained from a mine about half a mile 
distant, worked by a company. The 
ore of this mine is thought by expe- 
rienced judges, to contain gold enough 
to afford a good profit upon the in- 
vestment necessary to keep the mine 
in operation,— It is even said that ore 
yielding /./i!// cents a bushel, may be 
worked profitably — and picked ore 
from this mine has yielded $8 per 
bushel hy actual assay. We learn 
also by a recent com.munication, that 
the miners in searching for gold have 
recently discovered a beautiful soap- 
stone which has already becom.e an 
article of commerce, and is likely to 
be very profitable, when the improve- 
ments on the river shall haA-e been 
completed sufficiently for its trans- 
portation. 

Blackwell's Mill, 116 ms. N. 
N. W. of R., and 60 ms. S. W. by 
W. of W., situated 6 ms. W. of War- 
renton, 40 N. of Fredericksburg, and 
50 ms. S. W. of Alexandria, on the 
ea.st side of Carter's Run, about 2 ms. 
above its junction with the Rappa- 
hannock, on the main road leading 
from Warrenton to Chester's Gap; at 
the end of the progressing improA^e- 
ment of navigation, which, when com- 
plete will make the mill, the main de- 
posit of all the grain raised west of if, 
as far as the Blue Ridge, a distance of 
18 ms, of fine wheat growing country. 
This mill stands unrivalled in its sec- 
tion of country, for the immense 



amount of wheat which it purchases. 
It manufactures 30,000 bushels an- 
nually. There is also a good saw 
mill, with an abundance of pine timber 
at hand, 1 general store, and 10 dwel- 
ling houses. The country around is 
densely populated ; — the soil suscep- 
tible of high improvement, especially 
by the use of clover and plaister. 
Ponulation at the mill 30. 

boDDsviLLE, p. O. 105 ms. from 
R. and 68 from W. 

Edgefield, P. O. 105 ms. from R. 
and 73 from W. 

Elk Marsh, P. O. 101 ms. from 
R. and 57 from W. — situated in the 
southern part of the county, 22 ms. 
N. W. of Fredericksburg. 

Elk Run Church, P. O. 90 ms. 
from R. and G8 from W. — situated in 
the S. E. part of the county, 20 ms. 
N. N. W. of Fredericksburg. 

Farrowsville, p. V. in N. W. 
part of the county, 130 ms. from R. 
and 64 W. of W. — situated on the 
head waters of Goose creek, 4 ms. be- 
low Manassa's Gap. — It contains a 
tavern, 2 mercantile stores, and a house 
of public worship free for all denomi- 
nations. Population 20. 

Fayetteville, p. O. situated 50 
ms. S. W. of W., in the southern part 
of the county. 

Foxville, p. V. 108 ms. from R. 
and 64 W. of W. — situated on the 
banks of the Rappahannock, 30 ms. 
from Fredericksburg. It contains 2 
extensive manufacturing mills, 2 wool 
carding machines, 1 mercantile store, 
and several blacksmiths, and coopers. 
Large quantities of good slate are 
found in the neighborhood; in which 
there is also a mineral spring — said 
to be ivhiie sulphur — which is now a 
place of considerable resort. — The 
surrounding country is fertile and 
thickly settled with intelligent and in- 
dependent farmers. 

Germantown, p. O. 95 ms. from 
R. and 61 from W. — about the centre 
of the county. 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— FAUaUlER. 



178 



GuioGsBv's Store, 127 ms. from 
R. and Gl from AV. 

Lee's Sulphur Spring, on the 
Rappahannock, near Thompson's 
Falls, on the road from Warrenton 
to Joffersonton, in Culpeper. This 
spring has been only known for a 
few years, but has become exceeding- 
ly popular, and attracts such a con- 
course in summer, as to have induced 
their enterprising proprietor (John 
Hancock Leo) to go to very great ex- 
pense in erecting large, pleasant, and 
commodious buildings; and laying out 
the gro\inds with great beauty, taste, 
and variety of ornamental trees, &c. 

McRaeville, p. O. 127 ms. from 
R. and 53 from W. 

MoRRisviLLE, p. Y. in the south- 
ern part of the county. — 95 ms. from 
R. and 63 from W. — situated on the 
stage road which leads from Falmouth 
to Washington, the county seat of 
Rappahannock county, 19 ms. from 
the former, 18 from War rreiitoii, mid 
20 from Fredericksburg. It contains 
a general store, tavern, hatter, tailor, 
wheelwright, and blacksmith. — The 
Baptists hold a monthly meeting at 
this place. Population, 20 Avhites, 
and 18 blacks. 

New Baltimore, P. V. 122 ms. 
from R. and 45 S. of W. from W.— 
situated in the eastern part of the 
county, on the post road leading from 
Warrenton to Alexandria, 5 miles 
from the former. It contains 1 7 dwel- 
ling houses, 1 flourishing Academy, 
incorporated 5 years since by the Le- 
gislature, and now in high estimation, 
2 mercantile stores, a lanyard, wheel- 
w-right, blacksmith, boot and shoe 
factory, and 2 wheat flin factories on 
an improved plan — A Colonization 
Society, auxiliary to the State Society 
has recently been fumed. — In the 
vicinity there is a Baptist house of 
worship, called Broad Run meeting 
house. Population 115 persons; of 
whom 2 are physicians. 

Oak Hill, P. O. 122 ms. from 
R. and 58 S. W. by AV. of W. 



Orleans, P. O. distances omitted 
on the post office list. 

Paris, P. V. 131 ms. from R. and 
58 S. W. by W. of W.— situated in 
the northern part of the county, at the 
foot of Ashby's Gap, in the Blue 
Ridge, and immediately at the junc- 
tion of the roads leading from Alex- 
andria and Fredericksburg to Win- 
chester. — It contains 25 dwelling 
houses, 3 mercantile stores, 1 house 
of public worship, free for all deno- 
minations, 1 common school, 2 sad- 
dlers, 1 cabinet maker, 1 tailor, 1 tur- 
ner, 2 smith shops, 1 wheat fan ma- 
ker, 2 wagon makers, 1 chair maker, 
and 3 boot and shoe factories. — This 
village enjoys a pure atmosphere, 
good water, and good health at all 
seasons; a disease of a local charac- 
ter has never been known to invade 
it. — The people are intelligent and 
industrious ; famed for their moral de- 
portment and hospitality. — The prac- 
tice of gaming and horse racing, once 
the favorite amusements of the place 
and its vicinity, have now entirely 
gone out of vogue. The valley in 
v.'hich Paris is located extends 5 or 6 
miles southward of the village. The 
land of the surrounding country is 
fertile, producing all the principle sta- 
ples of the state, and worth at an ave- 
rage price about twenty dollars an 
acre, falling however in A'alue as it 
recedes from the mountain. Popula- 
tion 200 persons; one of whom is a 
physician. 

Rectortown, p. V. 129 ms. from 
R. and 53 S. W. by W. of W^— situ- 
ated a mile to the S. E. of Goose 
creek, in a very healthy and fertile 
neighborhood. It contains 24 dwel- 
ling houses, 1 Methodist house of 
worship, 2 mercantile stores, 1 tavern, 
1 saddler, I wagon maker, 3 black- 
smiths, 1 cabinet maker, 1 boot and 
shoe maker, 1 tailor, 3 extensive mer- 
chant mills, 1 saw mill, and 1 carding 
machine. Population 100; one phy- 
sician. 

SoMERviLLE, P. V. 85 ms. from R. 



174 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— FAUUUIER. 



and 73 W. of W. — situated near the 
S. E. border of the county, on the 
main stage road leading from Fal- 
mouth to Winchester, 19 ms. from 
the former, 20 ms. S. E. of Warren- 
t07i, 19 from Brcntsville, 7 N. W. of 
Spottedville, and 5 S. E. of Elk Run; 
and at the intersection of the roads 
leading to those pbces. In the vi- 
cinity of the post office, is one large 
and flourishing male seminary, in 
which is taught all the usual branches 
of education taught in our schools, 
and averaging generally from GO to 
80 pupils; a tavern, mercantile store, 
blacksmith's shop, rtmning several 
forges, and a cotton gin. The coun- 
try around is moderately fertile and 
thickly settled. 

Salem, P. V. in the northern part 
of the county, 1 17 ms. from R. and 63 
W. of W. This village is laid out 
with one main street running E. and 
W. — nearly half a mile in length; 
and two cross streets, as yet unim- 
proved. — It is situated on the stage 
road leading from Warrenton to Win- 
chester, 13 miles from the former, and 
30 from the latter place, on a hand- 
some ridge, which divides the w^aters 
which flow through Goose creek into 
the Potomac, from those which flow 
into the Rappahannock. It contains 
33 dwelling houses, 3 mercantile 
stores, 1 Academy, used as a place of 
public worship by all denominations, 
until a large and handsome brick 
meeting house, which is now being 
erected, shall be completed, 1 common 
school, 1 well organized Sunday 
school, and 3 taverns. — The mecha- 
nics are, saddlers, tailors, boot and 
shoe makers, coach makers, v.'agon 
makers, blacksmiths, bricklayers, 
stone masons, plasterers and fancy- 
wall painters, house-joiners, &c. The 
principal article of trade is lumber, 
great quantities of which are brought 
from the country for some distance 
round. There is a tri-weekly stage 
running from Fredericksburg to Win 
Chester, and a cross mail 3 times a 



week from Buckland to this place. 
Population 250 persons: of whom 
one is a phj-sician. 

Walnut Branch, P. 0.111 ms. 
from R. and 55 S. W. of W. 

WARRENTON, P. V. and ^cat 
of justice, 107 ms. from R. and 51 S. 
W. bv W. of W., in lat. 38° 4 1' N. «fc 
long."'0° 46' W. of W. C— It is a beau-_ 
tiful village situated near the centre of 
the county; and contains (besides the 
ordinary county buildings which are 
spacious and handsome, and erected 
at an expense estima-ted at $30,000,) 
200 neat and closely built dwelling 
houses, 3 houses of public worship, 
MethodLst, Presbyterian, and Episco- 
palian, 4 primary schools, 3 taverns, 
4 private boarding houses, 2 printing 
offices, each issuing a weekly paper, 
4 wheelwrights, 1 coach maker, 3 
saddlers, 1 hatter, 2 boot and shoe 
factories, 2 cabinet makers, 5 hotjse 
carpenters, 4 blacksmith shops, 2 tai- 
lors, 2 clock and watch makers, 3 ba- 
kers, 1 tanner and currier, 3 brewe- 
ries, 1 tin plate worker, 2 milliners, 1 
mantuamaker, 1 house and sign paint- 
er, and 2 plough manufactories. This 
village has a regular market, which 
is held in a neat little building, the 
upper part of which is used as a Town 
Hall. Population 1300; of whom 
3 are resident ministers, 9 attorney's, 
and 8 physicians. The Winchester, 
Fredericksburg, Alexandria, &- Char- 
lottesville, post roads intersect each 
other at right angles in Warrenton, 
which makes it quite a thorough-fare. 
Many travellers going south prefer 
this route as it gives them an oppor- 
tunity of viewing the rich counties at 
the foot of the Blue Ridge, Fauquier, 
Culpcper, Orange, Albi marie, &c. 
and of visiting the Univirsily of Vir- 
gijiia. There is an excellent McAd- 
amiscd turnpike froni Warrenton to 
Alexandria. 

County Courts arc h dd on the 4 /A 
Monday in every month; — Quarterly 
in March, May, .4z/^'-«.?/, and Norem 
ber. 



EASTERN VIRGIxMA— FLUVANNA. 175 

Judge Scott holds his Circuit eantile stores, a cooper's shop, black- 
Superior Court of Law and Chancery smith shop, and a boot and shoe fac- 
on tlie 1st of April and September, tory: — on the east or Fauquier side 

Weavkr's Mill, P. O. 114 miles there are 3 dwcUino- houses, 1 grist 
from R. and 59 S. W. by W. of W. and 1 saw mill, l^opulaliou of the 

WiiKATLEY, p. V. 105 ms. Irom whole place 90. 'Vho Rappahannock 
R. and 01 S. W. bj^ W. of W. — situ-iriver is at this place 100 yards wide, 
aied '2^^ miles above Fredericksburg, and has in the distance of a mile, a 
upon the Rappahannock, which di-|fall of 44 feet, commencing above the 
vides the town and throws a part into'village and terminating below. This 
Culpeper. — On the Culpeper sideithe Rajrpahannork Company \\\\\ 
there are S dwelling houses, 1 extensiveievade by a canal which they have 
Hour manufacturing mill, capable oficoinmenced on the Fauquier side. — 
grinding 50,000 bushels of wheat inlVast quantities of building stone of 
the ordinary grinding season, 1 cotton'excellent quality, may be found on 
gin, and wool-carding machine, 2mer-lboth sides of the river. 



FL.UVAIVNA. 

Flxtvanxa was created by the Legislature in 1777', from a part of AI» 
bemarlo county. — It is bounded N. by Louisa, W. by Albemarle, S. by 
James river, which separates it from Buckingham, and E. partl}^ by Gooch- 
land, and partly by a bend of James river, separating it from Cumberland. 
It is in shape a parallelogram, approaching to a square, its border in com- 
mon with Albemarle is 26 miles, its mean breadth 16, — area 416 sq. miles. 
It extends in lat. from 37= 40' to 37=^ 58' N. and in long, from 1^ 12' to 1^ 43' 
W. of W. C. The Riuatifia, river enters it from Albemarle, and flowing 
S. E. divides the county diagonally, leaving nearly half on the north side, 
and empties into James river at Columbia. The surface is for the most 
part broken, but between the Rivanna and James there is a large tract of 
barren, level land which runs for some distance into Albemarle. The soil 
on the rivers is good — that on the James equal perhaps to any of the cele- 
brated low grounds on that river. The lower part of the county, — included 
in a line drawn from the mouth of little Bremo creek to the N. E. angle 
of the county — has a dark greyish soil resembling disintegrated granite 
which produces the best chewing' tobacco in the state. An eminent tobacco 
manufacturer of Richmond has ofiered the inhabitants of this district to 
take all of their tobacco, (lugs included,) at i^lO a hundred, and pay all 
costs and charges for its delivery in Richmond. 

The vein of gold which runs through Louisa, Goochland and Fluvarma 
into Buckingham, is worked near Palmyra, the county seat of Fluvanna. 
Population 1820, 6,704— in 1830, 8,221.— This county"^ belongs to the lltli 
judicial circuit and 6th district. Taxes paid in 1832-3, $2092 18 — in 
"1833-4, on lots, S»37 31— land, §1316 83—2093 slaves, $523 25—1623 
horses, )$97 56—7 studs, $84 00—10 coaches, $26 25— 20 carryalls, $24 
05—30 gigs, $23 35. Total, $2132 60. Expended in educating poor 
children in 1832, $166 83— in 1833, $359 73. 



176 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— FRANKLIN. 



TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Columbia, P. V. 52 ms. N. W. byl 
W. of R. and 122 from W. — situated 
on the left bank of the Rivanna, at its 
junction with the James. — It contains 
20 dwelling houses, 4 mercantile 
stores, 2 taverns, 1 house of public 
worship, free for all denominations, 1 
common school, 2 tailors, 3 boot and 
shoe factories, 2 cabinet makers, 1 
wheelwright, 1 house carpenter, and 

1 smith's shop. Population 85 whites, 
one of whom is a physician, 54 free 
colored persons, and 33 slaves. To- 
tal, 177. 

Laurel Spring, P. O. 61 ms. N. 
W. by W. of R. and from W. 

Lindsey's Cross Roads, P. O. 
80 ms. W. of R. and 123 from W. 

PALMYRA, P. V. and seat oj 
justice, 59 ms. N. W. by W. of R. 
and 136 S. W. of W., in lat. 37° 47' 
N. and long. 1° 29' W. of W. C— 
situated on the Rivanna river, 14 ms. 
from its junction with the James. 
Besides the county buildings which 
are of brick, and have been recently 
erected, it contains 14 dwelling hous- 
es, 1 methodist house of worship, 1 
mercantile store, 1 tavern, 1 merchant, 
grist and saw mill, 1 Avoollen factory, 

2 saddlers, 2 tailors, 1 boot and shoe 
factory, 1 tanyard, 1 cabinet maker, 
and several carpenters and coopers. 
A handsome and permanent bridge is 
erected across the Rivanna, This 
village is thriving. 

Co7inty Courts are held on the Atk 
Monday in every month; — Quarter- 
ly in March, June, August, and No- 
vember. 

Judge Field holds hii Circuit 



Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the \st of April and Septem- 
ber. 

Union Mills, 6S ms. N. W. by 
W. of R. and 122 from W., situated 
on the left bank of the Rivanna, on 
the post road, 25 miles from Colum- 
bia, and 16 from Charlottesville, in 
the midst of beautiful mountain and 
river scenery. At this place there 
are located, a merchant mill, grist and 
saw mill, and a cotton factor}^ called 
the Virginia Union Factory. — 
This factory owned by Messrs. Tim- 
herlake and Magruder,\sa large and 
commodious brick building ; it runs 
15U0 spindles, besides the necessary 
machinery for carding, &:.c. — it con- 
tains 12 poAVcr looms, in which seve- 
ral hundred yards of substantial cloth 
are made per day. The cotton yarn 
of this establisluricnt is in high repute 
throughout the state. More than 100 
operatives are employed by the enter- 
prising proprietors in the different de- 
partments of their establishment. — 
The place contains comfortable houses 
for the accommodation of 1 8 or 20 
families, a tanyard, and a methodist 
house of worship; besides the elegant 
dwellings of the proprietors. 

Wilmington, P. V. 55 ms. N. 
W. by W. of R. and 132 from W., 
situated on Rivanna river, 14 miles 
above its mouth. There arc located 
here 2 taverns, 2 mercantile stores, 
and a blacksmith shop. 

Winn's Tavern, P. O. 68 ms. N. 
W. by W. of R. and 142 from AV. in 
the western part of the count3^ 



FRANKI.1N. 



Franklin was created by the Legislature in 1784, from parts of Bed- 
ford and Henry counties. It lies S. W. of Staunton river, and is bounded 
by the county of Botetourt on the N., Bedford on the N. E. and E., Pitt- 
sylvania on the S. E., Henry on the S., Patrick on the S. W., by the Blue 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— FRANKLIN. 177 

Ridge, separating it from Floy.l on the W. and a small part of Montg-omery 
and part of Botetourt on the. N. W. Length 30 miles, mean breadih 25, 
and area 750 s|uare miles. It contains in lat. from 36-^ 46' to 37® 13' N. 
and in long, from 2^ 41' to 3^ 18' W. of W. C 

Black IVtiter river and Pig river rise in the Blue Ridge on the west, 
and run nearly pirallel with each other through the county to the east. 
Bla':I< Water emptying itself into the Staunton at the junction of the Bed- 
ford, Pittsylvania and Franklin lines; and Pig river emptying itself in the 
same stream in the county of Pittsylvania. — Neither river is navigable. 

The streams called creeks are all small, though of sufficient size for the 
usual purposes of machinery. The principal of these are S7ioio c re e A;, ris- 
ing in the mountain and running east into Pig river — Maggotty, rising in 
the Blue Ridge, running to the east into Blaclc Water — Ckesnut creek, run- 
ning to the east into Pig river — GiWs creek, rising in the Blue Ridge and 
running to the east into Black Water — Ruimett Bag, rising in the Blue 
Ridge and running to the S. E. into Smith's river, in the county of Patrick, 
and Nicholas creek, running south into Smith's river. 

There are some small mountains — Ckesnut mountain south of the court 
house about twelve miles, and the Grassi/ Hill, on the north, about a mile 
from the court house, are the largest. The others are small and deserve no 
particular notice. About half a mile east of this place an immense rock 
rises very abruptly, particularly on the north, at least two hundred feet above 
its base, from which the county tovvn takes its name — it is known as the 
Bald Knob, from its barren surface of rock — whose area is about eighty 
feet in length, by a mean breadth of about fifteen. 

Tha Sti'inton or Roanoke river, from the point where it passes through 
the Blue Ridg3, form^ a natural boundary of the county, separating it from 
Bedford. — The Blue Ridge from the same point forms another natural 
boundary on the north, separating Franklin from Botetourt, until it loses 
itself in the Alleghany at the Bent mountain, which then forms the boun- 
dary separating Franklin from Montgomery and Floyd, until it reaches the 
Patrick line. 

The staples are principally tobacco, wheat, Indian corn and iron. The 
Washington Iron Works, on Pig river, within half a mile of Rocky Mount, 
yield annually about 150 tons of iron of a very superior quality. Iron ore 
is found in varioui parts of the county. 

The slope of the county is E. S. E. The elevation of the surface is 
about equal to that of the adjoining county of Bedford, or about 650 feet 
above the tide of the ocean. The general face of the country is rolling — 
the soil of a medium quality, with a clay foundation, and generally well 
adapted to farming. Population 1820, 12,017— in 1830, 14,91 1.— Frank- 
lin belongs to the tenth judicial circuit, and fifth district. Taxes paid in 
1832-3 82 182 19— in 1833-4. on lots. 819 35— land, $1131 12—2612 
slaves, $553 03—3459 horses, S207 54— 14 studs, $146 GO— 8 coaches. 
$21 00—9 carryalls, $3 00—12 gigs, $7 35. Total, $2194 36. Ex- 
pended in educating poor children in ^832. $518 50— in 1833, $1188 55. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, (fcc. 

Boon's Mills, P. O. 184 ms. S.I Calloway's Mill, P.O. 193 ms. 
W. of R. and 252 S. W. by W. of S. W. by W. of R. and 271 from W. 
W. ^ 

23 



178 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— GLOUCESTER. 



Cooper's P. O. 172 ms. S. W. by| 
W. of R. and 250 from W. 

Dickenson, P. O. 201 ms. S. W. 
of R. and 279 from W. 

Haleford, p. O. 169 ms. from R. 
and 242 from W. 

Helm's, P. O. 203 ms. from R. and 
281 S. W. of W. 

Hunter's Hall, P. O. I9S ms. 
S. W. by W. of R. and 274 from W. 

Rocky Mount, P. V. and scat of 
justice 185 ms. from R. and 2G3 S. 
W. of W.— situated on a branch of 
Pig river, a tributary of Roanoke, in 
lat. 36° 57' N. and long. 2° 50' W. 
of W. C. It contains besides the 
usual county buildings, about 30 
dwelling houses, 3 general stores, and 
2 taverns. — The mechanics are 2 tai- 
lors, a saddler, cabinet maker, 2 black- 
smiths, a boot and shoe manufacturer, 
a printing office, Avhich issues a week- 
ly paper, and a tanyard. — In the vi- 
cinity there is an iron furnace and 
forge, Avhich give employment to 100 
operatives, and manufacture about 1 60 
tons of bar iron and castings annually. 
Population (exclusive of the persons 
employed in the iron manufactory) 
175 persons; of whom 3 are attor- 
neys, and 1 a physician. 

County Courts are held on the \st 
Monday in every month; — Quarter- 



ly in March, June, August and No- 
vember. 

Judge Saunders holds his Cir- 
cuit Superior Court of Law and Chan- 
cery on the 9tk of Ma-y and October. 

Shady Grove, P. 6. 217 ms. from 
R. and 305 S. W. of W. 

Taylor's Store, P. O. 173 ms, 
S. W. by W. of R. and 251 from W, 
situated 12 ms. E. of Rocky Mount. 

Union Hall, P. V. 201 ms. from 
R. and 276 S. W. of W. — situated near 
the Blue Ridge mountain, between 
Pig and Black Water rivers, on the 
main stage road lending from Henry 
C. H. to Lynchburg, at the intersec- 
'tion of the road from Pittsylvania C- 
H. to Rorky Mount. It contains 15 
dwelling houses, 1 Methodist house of 
worship, at which n\\ English school 
is kept, and one well organised tem- 
perance society. The mechanics are 
a tanner, tailor, blacksmith, and to- 
bacco manufacturer. In the vicinity 
on Pig rix-er is an extensive manufac- 
turing flour mill, and a wool and cot- 
ton manufactory. Population 25 per- 
sons; of Vv'hom one is a physician. 

Woodpecker's Level, P. O. 208 
ms. from R. and 286 S. W. of W.— 
situated in the western part of the 
county, 23 ms. east of Rocky Mount, 



GLOUCESTER, 



Gloucester was created by the Legislature in 1652, from a part of 
York comity. If is bounded N. by the Piankatank river, which separates 
it from Middlesex, — E. by Mathews and an arm of the Chesapeake formed 
by the mouth of York river, and Mob Jack bay, — S. by York river, which 
separates it from York county, — S. W. by the same river, separating it from 
James City county and New Kent, and N. W. by King and Q.ueen county. 
Length 28 miles, mean width 10, and area 280 square miles. It extends 
in lat. from 37° 15' to 37° 35', and in long, from 0° 14' (o 0° 42' E. of W, 
C. The principal products of this county are corn, cotton, and Avheat, — 
much barley was formerly raised, but from some unknown cause the lands 
have ceased to be adapted to its cultivation. Popiilation 1820, 9,678 — in 
1830, white males, 217 — females, 2197— total, 4314 — slaves, males, 2885 
— females, 2806 — total, 5691 — free coloi'cd persons, males, 275 — females, 
328 — total, 603. Number of families, 911; average number in each family 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— C400CnT.AND. 



179 



1 1; miinhor of persons to llic squaro iniK% 35. Gloucoster belono^s to the 
fourth jiuiicial circuit, and sccoikI tlistrict. Taxes paid in 1832-3, 82180 
91— ill 1833-4, OH lots, $389 00— laml, i?790 GG— 3042 slaves, $7G0 50 
— 122G horses, 873 20 — 4 sluds, $7G 00— G4 coaches, $139 GO — 9 car- 
ryalls, §10 00 — 214 giqs, $113 G5 — total, $2172 50. Expended iu edu- 
cating poor children in 1832, $125 42 — in 1833, $334 73. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Glf.n-n's p. O. 89 ms. E. of R. 
and 148 from W. 

GLOUCESTER C. H. P. V. 82 
ms. E. of R. and IGG from W. — situ- 
ated near the centre of the countj^ 2 
miles from the head of Ware river, 
and 14 from Gloucester ferry. It 
cont:iins a court house, clerk's office, 
a criminal and a debtors jail, 8 dwel- 
ling houses, 1 incorporated Academy 
for males, called ' Neicington,' and 
one female Academy, 4 mercantile 
stores, and 1 tavern. The mechanics 
are a wheelwright, 2 carriage makers, 
3 blacksmiths, a hoot and shoe facto- 
ry, and 2 tailors. There are eii'-Iil 



houses of public worship, within the 
circumference of 14 miles from the 
court house, of which 2 are Episco- 
palian, 2 Baptist, and 4 Methodist. 
Population 120. 

The mail between Washington City 
and York Town passes this office 
four limes a week, and between Rich- 
mond and Mathews twice a week. 

Count 1/ Courts are held on i\\e first 
Monday in every month ; — Quarterly 
ill March, Mcuj, August and Novem- 
ber. 

Judge Brown holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chancery 
on the 24 /A of Mai/ and October, 



GOOCHLAND. 

GoociiL.vND was created by the Legislature in 1727, from a part of Hen- 
rico. It is bounded, on the W. by Fluvanna, N. by Hanover and Louisa, 
E. by Henrico, and S. by James river, which separates it from Powhatan 
and Cumberland. It is 30 miles in length by about 10 in mean breadth, 
containing 300 sq. miles. It extends in lat. from 37^ 31' to 37° 51' N. and 
in long, from ^0 47' to i° 20' W. of W. C. 

The general surface of the county is undulating, in some places rather 
broken. In diverging from the river it becomes more level and uniform, 
particularly in the upper part of the county, There is great diversity of 
soil, though much that is now exhausted and abandoned for all purposes of 
cultivation, was naturally of good and improvable quality. By far the finest 
portion of the county is that in the vicinity of James river. Perhaps there 
is no other tract of similar extent in eastern Virginia, that combines equal 
nitural advantages with so much fertility of soil and beauty of scenery. 
The width of the low grounds which form the ravine of the river, and the 
bold features of the adjacent highland.s, present a pleasing and striking con- 
trast. Added to this, an improved system of husbandry has been generally 
adopted throughout this section within a few years, the good effects of which 
are decidedly manifest. But though the lands in the vicinity of the river 
are undoubtedly much finer than in other parts of the county, yet they are 
in mmy places' of excellent quality, and easily susceptible of improvement, 
'i'lie ch'ief products are corn, wheat, tobacco and oats. Wheat and tobacco 



180 EASTERN VIRGINIA— GOOCHLAND. 

are the staple commodities for market, though the extent to which the latter 
is cultivated has been much circumscribed of late years. 

Goochland is well watered, particularly in the lower part by good streams, 
which mostly empty into James river. On many of these, there is water 
power to a considerable extent, but none of it is employed for domestic manu- 
factures. Saw and grist mills are numerous. 

Roads and Canals. — The most important local improvement in the county 
is the Tuckahoe canal, which was excavated about the year 1828. It was 
projected for the purpose of conveying the coal on Tuckahoe creek to 
Richmond, and is exclusively within the county. It communicates with 
the James river canal by means of a lock. Being constructed upon eco- 
nomical but efficient principles, the stock has proved to be exceedingly valu- 
able. The only good road in the county, and one of the best between the 
Blue Ridge and Tide Water, is the main stage road leading by the court 
house, from Richmond to Charlottesville. A laudable pride is feh, to keep 
this highway in good repair. There are sections of other roads, preserved 
in good order; but generally speaking, the road laws are executed with 
very little attention to public convenience. The Three Chopped road is 
almost as much famed for its often impassable condition as the well known 
bog of the Choppawamsic. 

Mineiah. — The mineral wealth of Goochland is considerable. Bitumi- 
nous coal is found in great abundance in the lower or eastern part of the 
county, both on Tuckahoe creek and on James river. In the upper portion 
of the county, gold has been discovered in many places, from which some 
profit has been realised. 

Churches. — There are from 15 to 20 houses of public worship in the 
county, the greater part of \\ hich belong to the Baptists, M'ho constitute the 
prevailing sect. The other religious societies are the Methodists, Presb)'- 
terians, Episcopalians and Friends. 

Streams. — Tuckahoe creek, a stream of some size, forms in part the lower 
boundary of the county. In its vicinity, a few miles from James river, 
there is an extensive body of coal, of excellent qualitJ^ To facilitate the 
transportation of this mineral to market, the Tuckahoe canal Avas opened 
in 1828, to communicate with the James river improvement. The stock of 
this canal is probably the most valuable canal stock in Virginia, the divi- 
dend being 33 per cent, per annum. On Tuckahoe creek and its branches 
there are many grist and saw mills, the latter of which furnish a great 
quantity of lumber for the Richmond market. The stream is about 15 or 
20 miles in length, pursuing generally a S. E. course to its junction with 
James river. The country which it waters is of medium quality — some of 
it very good. 

Dover creek, about ten miles long, emptying into James river at Dover 
mills. Its general course is southerly. The soil on either side, after leav- 
ing the river for a mile or two, is of inferior quality, and not a little of it 
an entire waste. 

Genito creek empties into James river at Jude's ferry. At about two miles 
from the river it is divided into the eastern and western branches, on the 
former of which there is a saw mill, and on the latter two grist mills. The 
land along this stream is mostly of excellent quality. General course south, 
and about eight miles in length. 

Beaverdam creek, one of the principal streams in the county, empties in- 
to James river about five miles below the court house, after pursuing a very 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— GOOCIII. AND. 181 

devious course. The principal branches of this stream, are the eastern 
and western forks, and Horsepen creek. It drains a considerable portion 
of country, much of which is distinguished for its fertility, and the durable 
qualities of the soil. The flats along the creek are generally wide, and 
yield great crops of Indian corn. The higland is remarkably well adapted 
to the growth of wheat. Though the land is rolling throughout the whole 
length of Bi^averdam creek, there is not much water power, and of course 
very few mills on the stream. On the Horsepen, there is an excellent grist 
mill, and a saw mill. 

Lilllc. creek, a small stream entering into James river three miles above 
the court house. It is five or six miles long; general course to the south. 
Its passage is through a portion of beautiful country. 

Lickiughole creek is a considerable stream M'hich discharges itself into 
James river four miles above the court house. It was formerly navigable 
for batteaux for two or three miles to a manufacturing mill, but its bed has 
now become so obstructed by hammocks, as to impede their progress, except 
tor a short distance. It is divided into two branches, the larger and smaller, 
both of which pass through a country of tolerable fertility. There are but 
few mills on this stream. Length about 15 miles, pursuing a somewhat 
southeasterly direction to its entrance into the river. 

Byrd creek, the largest stream in the county, empties into James river 
about 7 miles below Columbia. It is divided into two branches, Big and 
Little Byrd, which unite near the mouth. The Big Byrd rises in Fluvanna, 
and flows a S. E. course, running through a hilly country, especially near 
its termination. The lands on this stream as well as the Little Byrd are gene- 
rally thin, but abound in fine timber. There are several grist and saw mills. 
It is on the smaller branches of the Byrd that gold has been found. 

Islands. — Sabot island contains 500 acres, and is situated opposite to 
Dover mills. The soil is in a high degree fertile. 

Pleasant' s islands, a short distance above Judes ferry, and three miles be- 
low Maiden's Adventure falls. The land is extremely fertile, and some of 
the original growth was Horse Chesnut, (^Esculus flava,) a very uncom- 
mon forest tree in Eastern Virginia. The two islands contain nearly 200 
acres. 

Bjllings islani, in Rock Castle neck, about ten miles above the court 
house, contains 500 acres, and possesses a soil of great fertility. 

Elk island, a few miles above Cartersville, contains 1000 acres, and is 
much celebrated for the strength and fdrtility of its soil ; half of this island 
sold a few years since for the enormous price of S^75,000. 

Ferries. — Mani.can town ferry, a few miles above Powell's. 

Ju les ferry, at the mouth of Gonito creek. 

M'tch'i'i.v-'' ferry, one mile below the court house. 

Population in 1820, 10,037 — in 1S30, 10,360. Goochland belongs to the 
7th judicial circuit, and 4th district. Tax paid in 1832-3, S3358 09 — in 
1833-4, o\ land, $2223 3G— 315G slaves, $789 00—2156 horses, $129 
33 — 5 studs, '>if,7C> 00—44 coaches, $113 50—30 carryalls, $35 80—63 
gig>, $^5 8 J — 'Total, $3407 87. Expended in educating poor children in 
1833, $186 42. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 

Beaverdam, p. O. 24 ms. W. oflton, on the mail route leading to 
R. and 133 S. S. W. from Washing- Charlottesville, and one mile north of 



182 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— GOOCHLAND. 



James river. There are here a tavern, a 
store, and a blacksmith's shop. It is 
situated in a populous neighborhood, 
not far from Beaverdain creek, whence 
its name. It is surrounded mostly by 
a beautiful, undulating country, well 
adapted to the production of Indian 
corn, wheat, and clover. Tobacco 
was formerly one of the staples, but 
of late years its culture has been near- 
ly discontinued. 

Dover Mills, P. O. on Dover 
creek, near the Charlottesville road, 
21 miles west from Richmond, 135 
from W. and 10 miles below the C. 
H. A store is kept here, and recent- 
ly a tavern has been built. The mill 
possesses advantages greater perhaps 
than any other in the county. Be 
ing situated at the bank of the James 
river canal, it has every command of 
water power, and facility for transpor 
tation to market. A large quantity of 
wheat is yearly manufactured into 
flour, and it is in many respects a 
place of much activitj' in business. It 
is in the midst of one of the finest 
wheat growing portions of the coun- 
ty, and also affords a market for some 
of the produce of the contiguous parts 
of Louisa and Hanover. 

Fife's P. O. 39 ms. W. of R. and 
116 S. S. W. of W.— situated in the 
western part of the countv, on the 
Charlottesville road, near its intersec- 
tion with the mail route from Frede- 
ricksburg to Cartersville on James 
river, and Salisbury, N. C. A store 
is kept here. The soil of the sur- 
rounding country is of variable quali- 
ty; some of it well adapted to the 
growth of tobacco. 

GOOCHLAND C. H. 127 miles 
from W. and 28 above R. on the 
Charlottesville or river road, and one 
mile north of James river. The place 
has a village-like appearance, and 
contains a tavern, store, tailor's shop, 
<fce. The public buildings are built 
in a neat and durable manner. A 
portion of the adjacent country cxhi-| 
bits rather a hilly and broken suface,' 



but the soil is mostly of good qualitj', 
and some of it exceedingly fertile. 

County Courls are held on the 3(^ 
Monday in every month: — Quarter- 
ly in March, May, August and No- 
vember. 

Judge Clopton holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the ilih of April and \st of 
October. 

Johnson's Sprixc;, P. O. on the 
Three Chopped road, 28 miles from 
R. and 150 from \V. The land in 
the vicinity is of inferior quality, 
much exhausted by injudicious culti- 
vation. 

Mitchell's, P. O. on the Three 
Chopped road, 50 ms. from R. and 
153 S. S. W. of W. There is a store 
at this place. The land in the vicini- 
ty is of tolerable quality, well adapted 
to the growth of tobacco, of which a 
considerable quantity is prepared for 
market. 

Powell's, P. O. 1 5 ms. W. of R., 
137 from W. and IG below the court 
house, on the Charlottesville mail 
road. At this well known place, a 
tavern has been kept a number of 
years bv William Powell. The good 
order and excellent accommodations 
which distinguish his house, deserve 
a notice in any account which may 
be given of this place. It is situated 
in a thickly settled neighborhood, in 
about two miles of James river. The 
land in the vicinity is of medium 
quality, adapted to the culture of oats, 
of which a large quantity is consum- 
ed at the adjacent coal pits. 

Saunderson's, p. O. 160 ms. S. 
S. W. of W. and 42 from R. 

Shannon Hill, P. O. on the 
Three Chopped road, 52 miles from 
R. and 147 S. S. W. of W. The 
adjoining land is of medium quality, 
well adapted to the production of to- 
bacco, in common with much of the 
upper part of the county, in which it 
is located. There are located here 
besides the po.'^t office, a new and com- 
modious tavern, a mercantile store, 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— GREENSVILLE. 



183 



blacksmith shop, and a boot and shoe 
factory. Tlicre are several Baptist 
houses of worship in the vicinity. 
Considerable quantities of gold have 
lately been discovered in the neigh- 
borhood, both on the surfoce and in 
mines. One mine has recently sold 
for 810,000. 

Watkinsville, p. O. situated on 
the Three Chopped road, leading from 
Richmond to Charlottesville, 36 miles 
from R. 1.5S from VV. and 7 N. of 



Goochland C, 11. near the head of 
Beaverdam creek, about half a mile 
from the northern boundary of the 
county, on the ridge which separates 
the waters of the James from South- 
anna river. The land in the neigh- 
borhood is naturally very fine, well 
adapted to the growth of wheat and 
clover. It contains 8 dwelling houses, 
1 mercantile store, a tavern, tailor's 
and blacksmith's shops. Population 



Grben-sville was created by the Legislature in 1781, from a part of 
Brunswick. It is bounded north by Nottoway river, which separates it 
from thj county of Dinwiddle and part of Essex, — ^E. by Sussex and South- 
ampton counties, — S. by Northampton county, of North Carolina, — and 
W. by Brunswick. Length 22 miles, mean breadth 14, and area 308 square 
miles. It extends in lat. "from 36=^ 30' to 36"^ 48' N. and in long, from 0° 
20' to 0^ 46' W. of W. C. — 'Meherrin river enters it on the west from 
Brunswick, traverses it in a southeasterly direction, and cuts off about one- 
third of the covxnty to the north; and being bounded on the north by Not- 
toway river, it has considerable commercial advantages. The county slopes 
to the S. E. Popuhtioa in 1820, 6,858— in 1830, 7,117. Greensville be- 
longs to the first judicial circuit and first district. Taxes paid in 1832-3, 
$1933 73— in 1834, on lots, $21 51— land, 8922 06—2420 slaves, 8005 
00—1425 horses, 885 50— 4 studs, $153 00—49 coaches, 8133 75—8 

carryalls, 88 10—84 gigs, 849 35— Total, 81987 27. No report from 

school commissioners. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



HtCKSFORD, P. V. and seat of 
justice, 63 miles S. of Richmond and 
185 from W. — situated on the right 
or south bank of the Mehcrrin river, 
in lat. 31^"^ 37' N. and long. 0° 35' 
W. of W. C. It contains 12 dwel- 
ling houses, including 3 taverns, and 
3 general stores; court house, clerk's 
Oi'Hce, and jail. The Peltrshvrg 
Kiilroal passes within one hundred 
yards of this village, on its east side. 
The railroad bridge, across the Mc- 
herrin river, is one hundred yards 
long, supported by two hundred stone 
piers, and two abutments of the same 
material. Population 35 whites, one 



of whom is a physician, and 30 
blacks — total 65. 

Covntii Courts are held on the \st 
Monday in every month; — Quarter- 
ly in March, May, August and Oct'r. 

Judge Baker holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of I^w and Chance- 
ry on the 15/A of April and 23rf of 
October. 

Sandy Mount, P. O. in the south- 
ern part of the county, 75 miles from 
R. and 197 from Washington. 

Poplar Mount, P. O. 56 miles 
S. of R. and 178 from W.— situated 
on the south side of Nottoway river, 
on the road leading from Hicksford 



184 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— HALIFAX. 



to Petersburg, 12 miles S. of the for- 
mer, and 32 from the latter, and 8 
miles east of the Petersburg rail 
road. The surrounding country is 
wealthy, and the soil fertile, producing 



well all the staple commodities of the 
state, tobacco, cotton, wheat, Indian 
corn, &c. — which is sold in the Pe- 
tersburg market. 



HALIFAX. 

Halifax was created by the Legislature in 1752, from a part of Lunen- 
burg county. It is bounded on the north by Staunton river, which sepa- 
rates it from Campbell, — N. E. by the same river, separating it from Char- 
lotte, — E. by Mecklenburg, — S. by Granville county, of North Carolijia, — 
and W. by Pittsylvania. Its length is 33 miles, mean breadth 23, and area 
759 square miles. It extends in lat. from 36° 30' to 37° 02' N. and in long, 
from 1° 38' to 2° 12' W. of W. C. Though the Roanoke curves semi- 
circularly round the northern and eastern border of this county the slope is 
almost directly eastward. Dan river enters at the S. W. angle of the coun- 
ty, and flowing N. E. by E. over the county, receives within it Banister 
river from the N. W. and Hycootee from the S. W. and thus augmented, 
joins the Roanoke at the extreme eastern angle of the county. It is well 
•watered, and has an excellent soil. Much first rate tobacco is raised in the 
county. Population in 1820, 19,000— in 1833,-28,034. Halifax belongs 
to the ninth judicial circuit, and fifth district. Tax paid in 1832-3, $6216 
14— in 1834, on lots, $23 66— on land, 83218 43— 7727 slaves, $1931 75 
—5769 horses, $346 14—20 studs, $312 00—78 coaches, $203 20—81 
carryalls, $82 15—102 gigs, $61 10— Total, $6178 43: Expended in 
educating poor children in 1832, $704 21— in 1833, $690 76. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Barksdale, p. O. 246 ms. S. W. 
of W. and 156 S. W. by W. of R. 

situated between Dan and Banister 
rivers, 14 miles north of Halifax C. 
H. This village contains several 
dwelling houses, 1 Baptist house of 
public worship, 1 common school, a 
Sabbath school, a missionary and tem- 
perance society, an apothecary, wheel- 
Avright, boot and shoe factory, and a 
blacksmith. The post office located 
at this place is perhaps the oldest es- 
tablishment in the county. The land 
of the surrounding country is light 
and sandy, remarkably free and pro- 
ductive, but easily exhausted. The 
staple commodity is tobacco. 

banister; p. V. and seat of 
justice, situated on the south side of 
Banister river, 130 miles S. W. by 



W. of Richmond, and 220 S. W. of 
Washington; in lat. 36° 44' N. and 
long. I'' 58' W. of W. C. and about 
10 miles below the head of naviga- 
tion. Besides the usual county build- 
ings, it contains 25 dwelling houses, 
with a number of out houses, mecha- 
nic's shops, &c. 2 spacious houses of 
public worship, 1 Episcopalian and 
the other Methodist, a large and hand- 
some Masonic Hall, (which has late- 
ly been erected of brick, in an elevat- 
ed and ad.vantageous situation, about 
the middle of the village,) several 
handsome and commodious taverns, 3 
general stores, and 1 grocery. The 
mechanics are a saddler, coach maker, 
2 wheelwrights, 3 blacksmiths, 2 tai- 
lors, 1 cabinet maker, and 2 boot and 
shoe manufacturers, There are in 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— HANOVER. 



185 



the vicinity 2 extensive flour manu-j mercantile store; and in the vicinity, 
facturiiig mills, 2 saw mills, and 2 2 houses of public worship, I Baptist, 
cotton gins. The face of the country and the other Presbyterian. The 
on each side of the village is very country around is densely settled, and 
much broken, which causes it to be 
very long and narrow, and the hous- 
es to be built in a scattering manner, 
except immediately around the court 
house, where all the stores and me- 
chanic's shops are located. The vil- 
lage is remarkable for its health, be- 
ing well elevated by a gradual ascent 
of three quarters of a mile from the 
river. It is situated on the main road 
from Fredericksburg to the south. 
Seven stages pass through weekly, 
and eleven mails are received at the 
post office. There is a race course 
in the neighborhood, over which ra- 
ces are run once a year. Population 
250 persons ; of whom 3 are attorneys 
and 3 physicians. 

County Courts, are held on the 
4/A Monday in every month: — Quar- 
terly in March, June, August and 
November. 

Judge Leigh holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chancery 
on the 1st of April and September. 

Bennett's Store, P. O. 146 ms. 
S. W. of R., and 236 from W. 

Bentleysville, p. O. 115 ms. 
from R., and 230 from W. 

Black Walnut, P. O. 141 ms. 
S. W. of R., and 230 from W. 

Bloomsburoii, p. O. in the south- 
ern part of the county, 13 ms. S. of 
Bannister, 233 ms. S. S. W. of W., 
and 143 S. W. by W. of R., situated 
2 ms. S. of Dan river, and 8 ms. from 
the North Carolina line, on the main 
S. W. stage road leading from Wash- 
ington City to Salisbury, N. C. and 
Milledgeville, Georgia. There are 
located here a dwelling house, and a 



the land fertile, producing in abun- 
dance, tobacco, wheat, Indian corn, 
cotton, &c. 

Brooklvn, p. V. 148 ms. S. W. 
of R., and 238 from W. It contains 
12 dwelling houses, I mercantile 
store, 1 druggist shop, 1 tanyard, I 
boot and shoe factory, 1 coach and 
wagon maker, I tailor, 2 blacksmith 
shops, and 1 house carpenter. The 
situation is high and healthy. Pop- 
ulation 60 persons; I of whom is a 
physician. 

Centreton, p. O. 139 ms. S. W. 
by W. of R., and 229 from W. 
' Meadsville, 139 ms. S. W. of W. 
and 229 from R., situated at the head 
of navigation on Banister river, 20 
ms. from its junction with Dan river, 
and 10 from the C. H. It contains 
12 dwelling houses, 2 general stores, 
1 tobacco warehouse. 1 iron foundry 
and plough manufactory, 1 cabinet 
maker, 1 tanyard, 1 tailor, 1 black- 
smith, 2 extensive flour manufactur- 
ing mills, a wool carding machine, 
and a cotton gin. Population 70 per- 
sons ; 1 of whom is a physician. 

Mount Laurel, P. O. 115 ms. S. 
W. of R., and 206 from W. 

Republican Grove, 149 ms. S. 
W. of R., and 239 from W. 

Scottsburg, p. V. 135 ms. S. S. 
W. of R., and 235 from W. It con- 
tains several dwelling houses, 1 tavern, 
1 mercantile store, and 1 smith's shop. 
Population 40. 

Warren's Store, P. O. 115 ms. 
S. W. by W. of R.. and 205 from W. 
situated in the western part of the 
county. 



HANOVER. 

Hanover was created by the legislature in 1720, from a part of New 
Kent County. It is bounded N. by the Pamunkey which separates it from 
24 



186 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— HANOVER. 



Spottsylvania, Caroline, and King William counties. E. by New Kent, S. 
by the Chickahominy to its source, separating it from Henrico, and by 
Goochland, and W. by Louisa. Its length is 45 ms., main width 14, 
and area 630 square ms.; and it extends in lat. from 37° 29', to 38° 05' N. 
and in long, from 0° 15,' to 0° 57' W. of W. C. The North Anna river 
bounds the county from its N. W. angle to its N. E. angle, — the South 
Anna enters the county near its S. W. extremity, and unites with the form- 
er, about the middle of the northern county line, and near the south eastern 
extremity of Caroline; the two then take the name of Pamunkey, and 
uniting with the Mattopony at the south eastern extremity of King William 
County, form York river. The Chickahominy rises at the point at which 
Hanover, Goochland, and Henrico meet, and forming the county line of 
Hanover, it afterwards separates New Kent from Charles City, and turn- 
nig S. enters James river between the latter county and James City. The 
surface of Hanover is hilly, and the soil of every extreme, from best river 
alluvion, to barren sand. Population in 1820, 15,267—1830, 16,253. It 
belongs to the 7th judicial circuit, and 4th district. Taxes paid in 1832-3, 
$4,488 37— in 1833-4, on lots, $5 1 1— on land, $2,617 04—4,655 slaves, 
$1,163 75—3,160 horses, $189 60—12 studs, $320 00—116 coaches, 
$263 00—1 stage, $2 00—28 carryalls, $28 00—178 gigs, $100 00. To- 
tal $4,689 40. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $165 20 — 
in 1833, $255 12. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Cold Harbour, Election Pre- 
cinct, near the S. E. angle of the 
count}'-. 

Dextoxsville, p. O. 22 ms. N. 
of R., and 144 from W. 

GuEEX Bay, P. O. 94 ms. S. S. 
W. of W., and 52 ms. from R. 

HANOVER C. H. P. V. 20 ms. 
from R., and 102 from W., situated 
on the north side of Machunp's creek, 
immediately on the main stage road 
leading from Richmond to Frede- 
ricksburg, 46 ms. from the latter place, 
on the top of the first range of hills 
inclining down to the creek, and about 
1 mile above the junction of the creek 
with the Pamunky river. It is sit- 
uated in a pleasant and wealthy neigh- 
bourhood, the river running almost 
entirely round it, making very exten- 
sive and fertile flats, highly produc- 
tive in all kinds of grain usually cul- 
tivated in Virginia. The flat lands 
were natui'ally rich, and arc now un- 
dergoing considerable improvement 
fi"om the use of marie, which abounds 
on almost every estate in the neigh- 



bourhood. The marie in many in- 
stances is found several miles from 
the river, in very large and extensive 
beds, and very rich. This place con- 
tains a C. H., Clerk's oliicc, and 2 
jails, a very large and commodiou.s 
tavern with various other houses, 1 
mercantile store, 1 blacksmith, and 1 
boot and shoe maker. Population 
about 50 persons of whom 1 is an at- 
torney. 

"Hanover C. H. is famed for being 
the arena on which the famous Po^ 
trick Hcri-ry figured in early life. It 
was here that those speeches Avere de- 
livered by him that fired the bosoms 
of his countrymen ; and fixed and con- 
firmed them in the manly spirit that 
so soon displayed itself in the expedi- 
tion that was undertaken against Go- 
vernor Dunmore, commonly called 
the gunpovv'der expedition. It was 
here that the first company of armed 
men were formed and organized in 
opposition to British tyranny, in Vir- 
ginia; and in the walls of the present 
(.'. 11. that the splendid and manly el- 



K ASTERN V IT? r;i XI A— HANOVER. 



187 



oqueucc of ilie illustrious Ilonry was 
first heard, felt and fully acknowledged 
by his countryiiieu. It was here that 
his vivid fancy taking wing rose to 
some of the most sublime heights that 
human genius is capable of attaining, 
It was here that on one occasion he 
received in common with his coun- 
trymen intelligence of the premeditat- 
ed aggressions against his countr}', by 
England, and inspired with the indig- 
nation which such a comnumication 
was calculated to produce on the mind 
of so intelligent, high minded and pa- 
triotic a spirit, he could not contain 
himself for a moment, and not seeking 
the customary rostrum he took ad- 
vantage of the first convenient eleva- 
tion which presented itself, and spoke 
in a strain, such as they had never be- 
fore heard from man. The effect was as 
he desired, he awakened and aroused 
them to a just estimate of the lawless 
rule premeditated by the British min- 
istry. The after events of his history 
are too well known to need commen- 
tary. 

To Hanover, also, the vrorld i.s in- 
debted for one of the first orators and 
politicians now figuring in the arena 
of American politics — Henry Claj^ — 
Clay was born and reared within 3 
ms. of Hanover C. H. and the vene- 
ration in which this spot is hold may 
bj judged from the fact, that passen- 
gers in almost every stage which pas- 
ses from time to time, are in the habit 
of getting out and visiting the C. H., 
and lingering away the passing hours 
in reminiscences of the master spirits 
tkat hnve rendered them illustrious. 

These same venerated walls have 
also in more modern date, been made 
10 resound with the argum Mitative 
genius, and sonorous voice of the de- 
parted Morris, who was also a na- 
tive of this old and venerable county." 

Coitnfi/ o)ii Co)yoratioii Courts are 
held on the \tk Tacsdaf/ in every 
month: — Quar/erli/ in Frh. April, 
Ji/li/, and Octnhnr. 

Ji'Dor. Cloptox holds his Circuit 



Superior Court of Law and Chancery 
on the 2Gth of Aj)ril, and 15/A of Sep- 
t ember. 

Hanoverton, p. O. 31 ms. N. E. 
of R., and 94 S. S. W. of W., situated 
on the right bank of the Pamunky 
river. 

MoxTPELiER, P. O. 24 ms. N. of 
R., and 112 ms. from W., situated on 
the main stage road, leading from 
Richmond to Louisa C. H. GO ms. 
from the latter. 

Negro Foot, Election Precinct, 
in the western extremity of the coun- 
t}', nearlj' equal distance from the 
northern and southern boundary. 

Newfound Mill.s, P. O. 36 
ms. N. of R., and 102 ms. S. S. W. 
of VV^ 

Tayloksville, p. O., 28 ms. N 
of R., and 106 from W. 

Thompson's Store, P. O. 46 ms. 
N. of R., and 92 from W., situated in 
the northern part of the county. 

Old Church, P. O. 15 ms. N. of 
R., and 122 from W. 

Verdon, p. V. 30 ms. N. of R., 
and 105 from W. between the North 
Anna, and Little river, immediately 
on the latter ; and at the intersection 
of the roads leading from Hanover 
C. H. to Louisa C. H., and from the 
Bowling Green, in Caroline, to Rich- 
mond — 12 ms. from the first — 20 from 
the second, and 35 ms. both from 
Louisa C. 11. and Goochland C. H. 
In the vicinity are several dwelling 
houses, 1 mercantile store, 1 cotton 
manufactory, 2 wheelwrights, 2 black- 
smillLs, and various other mechanics. 
I Population 50. 

I \VooDi..\wN, p. O in the N. AV. 
1 part of tlic countv, 30 ms. northward of 
: R., and 105 ms. S. W. by W. of W. 
JC, situated immediately on the main 
{stage road, leading from R., to Louisa 
jC. H., 23 ms. from the latter; and at 
the head of several small streams, on 
I the N. side of the South Branch of the 
Pamunlvv river. 



188 EASTERN VIRGINIA— HENRICO. 

HENRICO. 

Henrico is bounded on the S. W. by James river, which separates it 
from Chesterfield; on the N. W. by Goochlnnd ; on the N. E. by Hanover 
and New Kent ; and on the S. E. by the county of Charles City. Its mean 
length is 27 ms.; mean breadth 10^ ms., and area 291 square ms., extend- 
ing in lat. from 37° 57' to 37° 4', and long. 0° 20' to 0" 49; W. of W. C. 
Henrico was one of the primitive counties or shires into which the colony 
Avas divided in 1634. Its territory was of course, at that time, very exten- 
sive, but repeated partitions in order to form other counties, have reduced 
it to its present comparatively small size. With the exception of the lands 
on James river, which are very fertile, the soil is generally light and un- 
productive. There are also some good farms on the Chickahominy, a 
small stream which divides the county from New Kent and Hanover, and 
enters James river above Jamestown. The surface is moderately undulat- 
ing, terminating in abrupt precipices both on the Chickahominy and James 
river bottoms. Richmond, the metropolis of Virginia, is shuated in the 
centre of the county in reference to its length from N. W. to S. E. (See 
Richmond City.) About a mile below town, the famous Indian King 
Powhatan had one of his principal lodges. The estate has been long in 
the possession of the Mayo family, and is known by the name of its former 
Indian proprietor. The population of Henrico, in 1800, exclusive of Rich- 
mond, was 9,149 — and in 1830, according to the last census, 12,737 — shew- 
ing an increase of 3,588, or nearly 40 per cent, in 30 years. Of its popu- 
lation last ascertained, there were free whites, 5,716 — slaves, 5,932 — free 
colored, 1,089. Total 12,737. Taxes paid in 1833, si^l3,470 16— and in 
1834, on lots, $7,729 77— on Land, $3,170 73— on 7,580 slaves, $1,895— 
3,290 horses, $197 88—4 studs, $270 00—266 coaches, $698 25—62 
carryalls, $65 10—104 gigs, $79 95. Total $14,106 68. No report 
from school commissioners. The county is intersected by 3 good turnpike 
roads, having toll gates, — the Brook, Mechanicsville, and another leading 
to Petersburg on the north side of James river. There are few or no 
schools worthy of notice, except a Baptist Seminary, about 4 ms. from 
Richmond. The mass of the population are poor and uninformed, and are 
somewhat remarkable for a keen jealously of metropolitan influence. 

County Courts are held on the \si Monday in every month, and Qiiar- 
terly, March, June, August and November. 

Judge Clopton, holds his Superior Court of Law and Chancery on the 
Sth of May, and 22(i of October. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



RICHMOND CITY, the metrop- 
olis of Virginia, is situated in the 
county of Henrico, on the north side 
of James river, and immediately at 
the great falls, or head of tide water. 
Lat. 37° 32' N., long. 25° 54' W. of 
W. Its location is uncommonly de- 
lightful, and has often excited the ad- 
miration of strangers. Perhaps the 



picture which has ever been drawn 
of its natural beauties, is from the pen 
of the eminent and lamented author of 
the British Spy. " I have never met, 
says that enchanting writer, "with 
such an assemblage of striking and in- 
teresting objects. The town dispersed 
over hills of various shapes; the river 
descending from west to east, and ob- 



most glowing, and yet mo.st faithful jstructed by a multitude of small is 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— HENRICO. 



189' 



lands, clumps of trees, and myriads of 
rocks; among which it tumbles, foams 
and roars; constituting what are called 
the falls; the same river at the lower 
end of the town, bending at right an- 
gles to the south, and winding re- 
luctantly off for many miles in that 
direction; its polished surface caught 
here and there by the eye, but more 
generally covered from the view by 
the trees; among which the white 
sails of approaching and departing 
vessels exhibit a curious and interest- 
ing appearance: then again on the op- 
posite side, the little town of Man- 
chester built on a hill, w^hich sloping 
gently to the river, opens the whole 
town to the view, interspersed as it is 
with vigorous and flourishing pop- 
lars; and surrounded to a great dis- 
tance by green plains and stately 
woods; — all these objects falling at 
once under the eye, constitute by for 
the most finely varied and most ani- 
mated landscape that I have ever 
seen." The truth and beauty of the 
foregoing sketch may be realised from 
numberless positions or points of view, 
extending from the high hills to the 
west, which overlook the James river 
canal, as far as the Church Hill, the 
eastern barrier of the city. From the 
latter elevation, perhaps the landscape 
combines greater variety and gran- 
deur, than from any other point. 
Shockoe hill, however, is the favorite 
residence of the citizens. This is 
divided from the other by the valley 
of Shockoe creek, and is a high and 
spacious plain occupied by the princi- 
pal public buildings, and by nume- 
rous private edifices, some of which 
are of elegant and expensive con- 
struction. The Capitol, or Stale 
House, stands in the centre of a beau- 
tiful park or square, near the brow of 
the hill, and from its size and elevated 
position is the most conspicuous ob- 
ject in the city. The exterior ol the 
building is of admirable proportions, 
and its fine columns of Ionic architec- 
ture seen from a distance, have a very 



imposing effect. It was formed from 
a model of the Maison Carree at 
Nismes, — brought by Mr. Jefferson 
from France. Its interior construc- 
tion, however, is neither elegant nor 
convenient. In a large open saloon 
or hall, in the centre of the building, 
is a marble statue of Washington, ex- 
ecuted with great skill by Hodoun, a 
French artist. There is also a bust of 
Lafayette, occupying one of the niches 
in the wall. Besides the statue it is 
still in contemplation to erect a superb 
monument to the memory of Wash- 
ington on the capitol square. The 
fund which was dedicated to this ob- 
ject was originally raised by private 
subscription, and is now loaned out 
at interest by direction of the legisla- 
ture. Its present amount is about 
$18,000. When this monument is 
erected, it will add to the attractions 
of one of the finest promenades in the 
Union. The square Avhich contains 
about 9 acres, is enclosed by a hand- 
some railing of cast iron, and is or- 
namented by gravelled walks, and a 
variety of lorest and other trees. The 
Governor^ s House is a plain, neat 
building, adjoining the square, and on 
a part of the public domain. The 
City Hall, w'hich is also contiguous 
to the State House, is a costly and 
elegant building of Doric architec- 
ture. It is devoted to the use of the 
City Courts and Council, and other 
ofR:ers of the Corporation. The 
other public buildings, are the Peni- 
tentiary and Manufactory of Arms — 
both e.xtensive establishments, and 
well adapted to their respective pur- 
poses. The Bank of Virginia and 
Farmer's Bank, are connected under 
one roof, and together constitute a 
handsome edifice on the principal 
street. 

Richmond is not deficient in be- 
nevolent institutions. Besides a very 
spacious Poor House, which stands 
in the suburbs of the city, — there is 
a Female Orphan Asylum, supported 
in part by funds of the corporation, 



190 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— HENRICO. 



and partly ])y private liberality. Its Board of Trustees have been filled, 



funds have been principally raised 
however for several years past, by an 
annual fair held at the City Hall. 
This institution is incorporated by the 
legislature, and is under the luanage- 
ment of female directors. There is 
also Si school fur the education of jjoor 
children of both sexes, upon the Lan- 
casterian system, founded in 1816, 
which with some fluctuations in its 
progress, is still in a prosperous con- 
dition. It is now under the super in- 
tendance of trustees appointed by the 
City Council, and is sustained by an 
annual contribution from the Literary 
fund of the state, together with an ap- 
propriation from the city treasury. A 
suitable building was erected for the 
accommodation of the school, soon 
after its first establishment, and hun- 
dreds have received from it the bene- 
fits of elementary instruction, who 
would probably have been otherwise 
the victims of ignorance and depravity. 
The City has not been so fortunate 
in other institutions for the cultivation 
.of the mind. A ^cw good schools it is 
true have occasionally existed, where 
A competent knowledge of the classics 
and some of the. sciences might be ob- 
tained, but none of these sources of in- 
struction have been commensurate 
with the wants of the citizens. It is 
A remarkable circumstance, that the 
metropolis of the state, containing as 
it does con.^iiderable wealth aud popu- 
lation,' — -manj- distinguished and well 
informed men, and much boasted re- 
finement, should yet be destitute of a 
single academical institution. As far 
back as 1 803, a charter was obtained 
from the state by some of the promi- 
nent citizens, for the establishment of 
an academy by lottery and private 
subscription. A 'icw thousand dollars 
were raised, — a site was injudiciously 
selected a mile beyond the limits of the 
city — and the basement story of the 



and there is some prospect of reviving 
the institution. 

Besides this marked deficiency in 
the means of educating youth, there 
are few or no associations of an intel- 
lectual character among persons of 
maturer years. Whilst the northern 
cities can boast of their literary and 
scientific societies, the capital ot the 
ancient dominion scarcely contains 
one which deserves the name. An 
honorable exception, it is true, may be 
mentioned in the " Virginia Histori- 
caKind Philosophical Society," which 
was established in 1831, and has since 
been incorporated ; — but as its mem- 
bers are principally dispersed through 
the state, and few of the citizens of 
Richm.ond manifest any zeal in its 
welfare, it can scarcely be considered 
an association of the city, either in its 
origin or character. About 20 years 
since a Museum was erected princi- 
pally by individual enterprize; which 
was designed as a repository of the 
fine arts, and of natural curiosities. 
This institution however, has for a 
long time languished for want of pa- 
tronage. 

Societies however of a moral and 
religious cast, are numerous, active, 
and flourishing. Various associa- 
tions exist for promoting temperance, 
for colonizing the free people of color, 
for aiding missionaries, for the distri- 
bution of the Bible and religious 
tracts, and for various other objects of 
a similar character. The encourage- 
ment also which is given to Sabbath 
schools is extensive and beneficial. 
The means of religious instruction 
are very considerable, and probably 
in due proportion to the wants of the 
city. The Episcopalians have 3 
churches or houses of Avorship: — the 
Presbyterians 2, the Baptists 3, the 
Methodists 3, the Roman Catholics 1, 
and this last congregation are now 



building erected, but no further pro- constructing a new and elegant build- 
gress was made. Within the presentj ing, which will probably rival any in 
year, however, the vacancies in the the city for the style of it? artichec- 



EASTERxN V illG i N 1 A— HEN RICO. 



191 



turc. The Baptists Srrcdcrs or fol- 
lowers of Alexander Campbell, have 
1 place of worship, — the Unitarians 
and Qwakcrs 1 each, — and the Jciosn. 
handsome Syna^-og-ue in a retired and 
handsome situation. 

The Monumental Church, one of 
the tliree belonging to the Episcopa- 
lians, and of which the venerable 
Bishop of Eastern Virginia has long 
been the Rector, — has acquired a me- 
lancholy celebrity from the circum- 
stance that it occuj \i% the site of the 
Richmond Theatre, which was de- 
stroyed by fire in December 1811; on 
which tragical occasion the Grovernor 
of the Commonwealth, and 70 or SO 
respectable persons of both sexes pe- 
rished miserably in the flames. Long 
will that mournful event be remem- 
bered by those who survived or wit- 
nessed its horrors ! — Either from the 
deep impressions which it produced 
or from other causes, — the taste for 
theatrical exhibitions has not kept 
pace with the increase of wealth and 
population. The commodious Thea- 
tre which succeeded the old one, — 
which is placed in a far more eligible 
situation, and is of much safer con- 
struction, is only occasionally patro- 
nized when the appearance of some 
attractive star, or celebrated performer 
is announced. 

Richmond was first established by 
act of Assembly, as early as 1742, and 
became the seat of Government of the 
state in 1779. Various legislative 
acts have passed from time to time 
enlarging its corporate powers and 
privileges. Nine persons are an- 
nually chosen from each of the three 
wards into which the city is divided, 
who when assembled elect out of their 
own body a recorder, and 1 1 alder- 
men, who exercise judicial functions. 
The same persons also elect from 
their own body, or from the citizens 
at large, a Mayor, who is both a ju- 
dicial and executive officer. The re- 
maining 15 members constitute the 
legislative council of the citv, and as 



such, are authorized to raise and ap- 
propriate money, and to enact all such 
ordinances as are necessary for the due 
execution of the powers conferred by 
the charter. The valuation of real pro- 
perty within the city according to the 
assessment of 1833, was $6,614,550, 
The revenue raised for corporation 
purposes may be stated in round num- 
bers at $GO,(JOO, besides which, the 
city contributed as its quota of the 
state tax in the year 1833, nearly 
69,000. This large amount of taxa- 
tion is principally derived from real 
and personal property, and from li- 
censes to merchants, ordinary keep- 
ers, &c. The number of wholesale 
merchants, paying license tax in 1833, 
as appears by the returns of the State 
Commissioner was 20 : — retail ditto 
326, auctioneers 7, lottery ticket ven- 
ders 7, ordinary keepers 43, and keep- 
ers of houses of private entertainment 
9. According to the same returns 
there were 739 horses and mules, 157 
coaches, 9 carryalls, and 54 gigs. 

The expenses of the city are con- 
siderable. The principal items of ap- 
propriation arc 812,000 for a sinking 
fund, to pay the interest, and redeem 
gradually the corporation debt; 64,000 
for the poor; 61,700 to the Lancaste- 
rian Free School and Orphan Asy- 
lum; 61000 for repairing the streets; 
and 63,500 for the support of a night 
watch. The remaining expenses are 
on account of the public markets, fire 
companies, salaries of officers, paving 
of streets and various contingencies. 
The city debt at this time amounts to 
6136,150;— 695,000 of which, bear- 
ing an interest of 5 per centum only, 
was incurred on account of the icater 
works. These works were commen- 
ced in September 1830, under the di- 
rection of Albert Stein, an accomplish- 
ed Engineer from Holland, and were 
completed as hr as originally design- 
ed, at the end of the ensuing year. 
Since that time, a second ptunp and 
wheel, and a third reservoir have 
been added; making the cost of the 



192 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— HENRICO. 



whole work about $100,000. The 
pumps are each calculated to raise 
from the river, and propel into the re- 
sevoirs at a distance of 800 yards, and 
at a considerable elevation 400,000 
gallons of water in 24 hours. These 
pumps are designed to operate alter- 
nately, either being competent to fill 
the reservoirs in sufficient time. The 
reservoirs will each of them contain 
1,000,000 gallons, — and double lines 
of pipes extend from them to the pump 
house on the margin of the river. 
The main pipe from the resevoirs to 
the intersection of H. and 1st streets 
is 2,058 yards in length; and the 
smallest pipes extend from this thro' 
the principal streets, lessening in di- 
ameter to the point of greatest depres- 
sion from the level of the resevoirs, a 
distance of about 3 ms. Fire plugs 
are placed at convenient distances 
along the line of pipes, and afford an 
ample supply of water for extinguish- 
ing fires. In the lower part of the 
city the pressure is sufficient to force 
the Avater to the tops of the houses 
through hose, Avithout the aid of en- 
gines. Three hundred and forty 
houses and tenements are already 
furnished with water, and the rents 
which are daily increasing, amount 
at this time, April 1834, to $4,000. 
The annual expense of superintend- 
ance, &.c. is $1,000. These works 
may justly be considered the pride of 
the city. The water M'hich they sup- 
ply is not only pure and wholesome, 
but for a considerable part of the year 
is sufficiently clear to be used without 
filters. 

The exports of domestic produce 
from Richmond to foreign countries 
arc very considerable. In the year 
1833, their value in American vessels, 

was $2,466,360 00 

And in foreign vessels, 498,131 00 



Making the ag'rt. of $2,964, 491 00 

The value of domestic produce 

shipped coastwise to the principal 

Northern Cities, cannot be ascertain- 



ed correctly. It is believed to be at 
least equal if not greater than the 
amount exported to foreign countries, 
and if such be the fact, the total value 
of produce shipped, may be estimated 
at nearly $6,000,000. The import 
trade, however, bears no proportion to 
the other. The value of merchan- 
dize imported into the district of Rich- 
mond from foreign countries for the 
year 1833, amounted to only $209,963, 
and the duties paid to the Govern- 
ment of the United States to $75,120. 
Of this latter sum, $7, 197 was paid on 
merchandize brought by foreign ves- 
sels. 

In 1833, 5 schooners, 9 barks, 37 
brigs, and 30 ships, in all 81 vessels, 
cleared from the port of Richmond for 
foreign countries, the tonnage whereof 
amounted to 22,331, or an average of 
275 tons to each vessel. In the same 
year 4 schooners, 6 brigs, 2 barks, 
and 3 ships entered from foreign 
countries, — making in the aggregate, 
3,412 tons, or 227 to each ves.sel. 

No inconsiderable part of the pro- 
duce shipped from the city is brought 
doAvn the James River Canal. This 
important improvement commences 
at Maiden's Adventure, on James ri- 
ver about 30 miles distant, and termi- 
nates in a deep and commodious basin 
in the heart of the town. The tolls 
paid to the James River Company on 
produce descending in the year 1833, 
amounted to $43,949, and on various 
articles carried up the Canal to 
$10,139, making in the aggregate, 
$54,088. Among the items brought 
down, may be enumerated upwards 
of 15,000 hhds. of tobacco, 152,000 
barrels of flour, 133,000 bushels of 
wheat, 677,664 bushels of coal, 1,374 
tons of bar and pig iron ; and 2,230- 
900 lbs. of manufactured tobacco. 
Among the ascending articles may be 
mentioned, nearly 31,000 sacks of 
salt, 297 tons of bar and pig iron, and 
upwards of 3,000 tons of plaster, 
lime, <fcc. 

The proximity of the coal mines to 



EASTERN VIRGINIA-~HENRICO. 



193 



Rir.hmond, constitutes that mineral a 
valuable article of" commerce. B< 
sides the quantity brouglit down the 
canal, there were more than 2,000,000 
of bushels (4 pecks to the bushel) 
transported on tlie Chesterfield Rail 
Road in 1833, the tolls on which 
amounted to 837,813 30. The Ches- 
terfield Rail Road, terminates on the 
Manchester side of the river, and de- 
serves to be honorably mentioned as 
the first successful cnterprize of the 
kind in the state of Virginia. It was 
planned and executed under the di- 
rection of Moncure Robinson, a dis- 
tinguished Engineer, and it ov/es 
much in its original design and final 
accomplishment, to the perseverance 
and patronage of Mr. Mills, one of the 
few proprietors of its stock, and an 
owner of one of the extensive coal 
mines at the upper termination of the 
road. 

James river from Richmond to the 
ocean, presents a tedious and some- 
what obstructed navigation. This 
with the circumstance that she is sur- 
rounded by rival towns, each having 
its peculiar advantages of location, — 
will probably prevent the metropolis 
from ever attaining a high degree of 
commercial importance. There is no 
doubt, however, of its final destination 
as a manufacturing city, — as there is 
probably no spot in the Union en- 
dowed by nature with finer facilities 
for that kind of industry. From the 
commencement of the rapids a few 
miles above, the fall is upwards of 
100 feet to the level of tide water, and 
in all this space there is scarcely a 
limit to the extent of water power 
which exists. In the city and its vi- 
cinity, there are already several flour- 
ishing establishments which deserve 
to be mentioned. The Gallcgo Flour 
Mills having been destroyed by fire 
in the spring of 1833, their present 
proprietor, Mr. Chcvallie, is rebuild- 
ing them at a more convenient site on 
the bank of the James river basin, and 
upon a much more improved and en- 
25 



larged plan. The mill horse which 
is nearly complfetcd, is G storifs high 
from the foundation and covered with 
tin. It is 94 feet long by 83^ wide, 
and is calculated for 20 pair cf stones 
to be vvorked by 3 v/atsr wheels. 
Connected with it is another building 
80 feet square, and 4 stories high, in 
which the wheat v.iil be received and 
cleaned. The two toge^ljer present a 
fronton the basin of 163^ feet, and 
the whole appearance is very impos- 
ing. The old Gallego Mills ground 
upwards of 2D0.03D bushels of wheat 
in the 8 months preceding their de- 
struction. It is probable that the ope- 
rations of the new establishments will 
be much more extensive. The Gal- 
lego brand, and indeed that of the 
City Mills generally, has acquired 
much celebrity in the South American 
markets and elsewhere. 

HxxaVJs Mills, have also a high 
reputation: they ara 5 stories high 
and of nearly equal dimersior.s with 
Chevaliie's. They work 14 pair of 
stones, with 4 water vv'heels, ar.d grind 
about 200,030 bushels wheat annual- 
ly. This year that quantity v/ill pro- 
bably be exceeded, as it is contemplat- 
ed to add 4 additional pair of stones. 

R'xtherford's Mill works S pair of 
stones by 2 v»-ater whee's, ar.d grinds 
about 90,000 bushels of v/heat an- 
nually. 

Maya's Mill in Manchester oppo- 
site to Richmond, works 6 pair of 
stones by 3 water wheels, and grinds 
also about 90,033 bushels of wheat 
annually. 

In the city and its vicinitj', there 
are 5 corn or grist mills, 2 manufac- 
tories for cut nails, and rolling and 
slitthig iron, 2 saw mills, and 1 iron 
foundery, whose operations are exten- 
sive. 

Tkc Rickmojii Coiicn Manvfacio- 
ry is a large and important estath'sh- 
ment. It v/as established ly Cun- 
ningham &- Anderson, in tiie year 
1829. and sold by them with all its 
appendages, to the Rio hmond Manu 



101 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— HENRICO. 



facturing Company, incorporated by 
an act of the Virginia legislature in 
the winter of 1831. The building is 
of stone and brick, 4 stories high, 146 
feet long, and 44 feet Avide, situated 
upon the north bank of the James, a 
few hundred yards west of the Armo- 
ry, receiving its water power from the 
James river canal, immediately below 
the Penitentiary. The water is also 
conveyed from the canal in iron pipes 
of G inches bore to the building, thence 
up the stair -Avay to within 5 feet of 
the caves, from which in case of acci- 
dent by fire, every floor except the 
upper one, can be flooded in a few se- 
conds, by simply turning a cock and 
using a hose. In this factory are em- 
ployed from 60 to 70 white operatives 
and 130 blacks, from the age of 14 
and upwards: — a large proportion of 
both descriptions are females. It 
runs 3,77G spindles, and 80 looms, 
together with all the necessary pre- 
paratory machinery for spinning and 
weaving, of the most approved kinds, 
and consumes about 1,500 pounds of 
raw cotton per day. 

The fabrics are heavy, — negro 
shirtings 29 inches wide, 4-4 sheet- 
ings and f shirtings of No. 16 yarn, 
and cotton yarns from No. 5 to 20 — 
all of which are celebrated for their 
superior quality. The capital em- 
ployed is $120,000. 

The Galltgo Manufacturing Com- 
pany Avas incorpoi'ated in January 
1834, and the capital subscribed is 
$1.50,000. The buildings which it is 
supposed, will be commenced the pre- 
sent year, will be located near the 
Gallego Mills. The Franklin Com- 
fany for the manufacture of paper, 
has also been recently incorporated, 
and the capital nearly subscribed. 

Besides the manufactures produced 
at the Penitentiary on state account, 
the city has its due proportion of the 
various mechanic trades, and private 
manufactories. Of printing establish- 
ments there are as many as 11, (per- 
haps an undue proportion) from 2 of 



which there are issued daily, political 
and commercial papers, — from 1, a 
semi-weekly political, — from 3, week- 
ly Religious, — and from 1, a monthly 
journal devoted to Iherature, &c. The 
others are either Book or Job Offices. 
The number of professional men is 
also considerable, and it is the more 
remarkable that so many members of 
the medical faculty should find em- 
ployment in a city proverbial for the 
salubrity of its climate. Situated at 
the point of demarcation between the 
upper and lower districts, it is fortu- 
nately exempt from many of the mal- 
adies which are peculiar to both re- 
gions. It is neither visited by the 
enervating autumnal diseases of eas- 
tern Virginia, nor by the more violent 
and inflammatory attacks Avhich be- 
long to the upper country. The yel- 
low fever that scourge of cities more 
populous and commercial, has never 
prevailed. 

The population of Richmond has 
nearly trebled in 30 years. By the 
census of 1800, the free whites num- 
bered, 2,837 

Slaves, 2,293 

Free colored persons, - - 607 



5,737 

By the census of 1830, the free 

whites amounted to - - - 7,755 

Slaves, 6,349 

Free colored, 1,956 



16,060 
The several classes have increased 
in nearly corresponding ratios. 

Richmond has been frequently re- 
proached for a Avant of hospitality, and 
if this virtue consists in unreserved 
and indiscriminate attention to stran- 
gers and visitors, — the reproach is 
probably not altogether unfounded. 
It must be acknowledged too, that the 
manners and customs of what are 
called the leading classes, are not 
characteristic of the old Virginia cha- 
racter, which was frank, simple and 
unostentatious. In almost all consid- 



EASTERN VIRr;iN[A— HENRY. 



195 



erable towns, cvoii in republican 
America, artificial caxtcs or classes 
exist, which are founded principally 
upon the possession of wealth, or the 
mysterious refinements of fasliion, 
and have but little reference eitlu r to 
moral or intellectual distinction. It 
is probable that this vice of cities is 
one of the chief sources of that preju- 
dice which is felt towards them by the 
people of the country. 'I'hese re- 
marks, however, are not to be con- 
strued into a sweeping- censure upon 
towns, — for althoug-h in all dense 
populations, there is always a greater 
or less degree of human infirmity, — 
there is also an equal concentration of 
the more virtuous and noble qualities! 
of our nature. [ 



Corporation Coi/rfsare held for the 
City of Richmond, on the Fridui/ be- 
fore th(> last Monday in every month: 
Quarfcr/i/ in February, May, Aui^usl 
and Noccmlier. Terms of the (ieiie- 
ral Court nrc held on the \st Monday 
in July nnd December. Circuit Court 
of United States, at Richmond, on 
the 22nd ojMay and November. The 
Federal District Court on the 15//t 
of May, and November. 

B ELLON A, P. O. 2 ms. N. of Bel- 
lona Arsenal, Chesterfield Co. and 
10 ms. of R., situated on the main 
road, leading from Richmond to 
Charlottesville. 

Shout Pump, P. O., situated 12 
ms. from R., and 134 from W, 



HENRY. 

Henry was created by the Legislature in 177G, from a part of Pittsyl- 
vania county. It is bounded N. by Franklin, — E. by Pittsylvania, — S. by 
Rockingham Co. North Carolina, — and W. by Patrick. It is nearly in 
the form of a rhomb; and its mean length 20^ miles, mean breadth 17^- 
and area 357 square miles. It extends in lat. from 3(3° 30' to 30° 50' N. 
and ill long, from 2° 41' to 3° 08' W. of W. C. Its extreme southwestern 
angle is crossed by the two branches of Mary's river, but the greater part 
of the area of the county is included in the valley of Smith's river, which 
enters the county near its N. W. angle and leaves it near the N. E. angle. 
Population in 1820, 5,024,— in 1830, 7,100. Henry belongs to the tenth 
judicial circuit and fifth district. Tax paid in 1832-3, $1117 10 — in 
1833-4.— On lots, ^9 00— on land, $042 20— on 1538 slaves, $384 50— 
1409 horses, $84 54—5 studs, $51 00-0 coaches, $10 50—8 carryalls, 
§8 00—11 gigs, $5 50. Total, $1201 90. Expended in education of 
poor children in 1832, $149 52— in 1833, $277 11. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



DixviLLE, P. O. 199 ms. S. W. 
by W. of R. and 291 from W. 

Leatherwoods Store, P. O. 284 
ms. from W. and 192 from R. 

MARTINSVILLE, P. V. and 
county seat, situated near the left bank 
of Irvine or Smith river, about 70 
ms. S. W. of Lynchburg, 207 ms. S. 
W. by W. of 'Richmond, and 299 
from W. C. Besides the ordinary 



county buildings which are spacious 
and liandsomely Ituilt of brick — the 
court house being enclosed with a 
brick wall and having a well of ex- 
cellent water attached: It contains 8 
dwelling houses, 2 tawrns, 2 mer- 
cantile stores, 1 tanyard, and several 
mechanic shops. This little village 
is fast impruvinir, — it is remarkable 
for the good health of its inhabitants ; 



196 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— ISLE OF WIGHT. 



being situated on a beautiful emi- 
nence, commanding an extensive view 
of the surrounding country, and well 
supplied v/itji excellent springs. Seve- 
ral buildings are being erected. Popu- 
lation, 50 whites of whom 3 are phy- 
sicians ; and 34 blacks. 

CoTirity Co:irts are held on the 2}id 
Mondxy in every month: Quarter It/ 
in March, Jxi,nz, A'j.^v.zt and Novem- 
ber 

Judge Saunders holds his Cir- 
cuit Superior Court of Law and Chan- 
cery on the \st of May and October. 

Traylorsville, p. O. 305 ms. 
S. W. of W. and 213 from R.— situ- 
ated in the vv'estprn part of the coun- 
ty, 6 miles from Blariinsville and 15 
from the North Carolina line, on the 



im.ain southern post read leading from 
i Salem, N. C. to Fincastle, Botetourt 
I Co., in a romantic position, among 
I hills, rivers and creeks. It com- 
mands a magnificent view of the 
Blue Ridge, and its collateral ranges. 
There is great variety in the soil in 
the neighborhood, the land being of a 
I free, productive character, and well 
watered ; but not very fertile except on 
the v.-ater courses. At this place there 
are strong indications of gold and iron, 
I which are thought lo be abundant in 
this section of country. There are 
located here a mercantile store, sad- 
dler, house of entertainment, and a 
blacksmith shop Population 25 per- 
sons: one of whom is a physician. 



ISLS OF WIGHT. 

Isle of V/ight was one of the eight original shires, into which Vir- 
ginia was divjdtd in 16r. 4. Its r.am.e was originally Warrcsquycakc 
shire. It is bounded N. by James river, which separates it from James 
City, and Warwick countits, — E. and S. by Nansemond, — Vv''. by Black- 
water river, which separates it from Southampton, — and N. W. by Surry. 
Its length is 37 miles, width 11 ; and area 407 square miles ; audit extends 
in lat. from 36° 38' to 37° 07' N. and in long, from 0° 02' to 0° 36' E. of 
W. C. This county inclines to the N. E. and S. W. towards the James 
and Blackwater. It has many creeks and swamps upon its surface, and 
a great variety of soil, though it is (renerallv thin and sandy. 

Population in 1S20, 10,139—1830, 10,517, It belongs to \he first judi- 
cial circuit and first district. Tax paid in 1832-3, Si 840 95; in 1833-4 — 
on lots, 894 34— on land, $303 62—2173 slaves, 8544 50— 1 176 horses, 
$70 56— 7 studs, $58 03— 25 coaches, $59 90 — 6 carryalls, 86 00—219 
gigs, 8125 62. Total, 81876 54. Expended in educating poor children 
in 1832,8442 98; in 1333, $375 40. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



CoROWAUGH, Sioamp, CrecJc. and 
P. O in the S. W. part of the county. 
35 miles S. W. of Norfolk, 101 ms. 
from R. and 223 from W. 

ISLE OF WIGHT C. H. P. 0. 
situated near the centre of the county, 
89 miles S. E. bv E. of R. and 35 
ms. a little N. of W. Norfolk. 

County Courts are held on the 1st 



Monday in every month ; Quarterly 
in March, J-une, August txndi Novevi- 
bcr. 

Judge Baker holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chancery 
on the fourth of May and seventh of 
October. 

Mayfield, p. V. 72 ms. from R. 
and 195 from W. This little villap-e 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— JAMES CITY 



197 



stands upon 'one of the handsoincst 
and most highly improved situations 
in the countv, about 11 miles W. of 
Smithficld, ys S. of Surry C. H. 12 
N. of Isle of Wight C. H and 28 
N. of Jerusalem, the scat of justice 
of Southampton county. 

Smithfield, p. V. in the northern 
part of the county, 80 ras. S. E. by E. 
of R. and 201 from W. C. It is situ- 
ated on the south side of Pagan creek, 
a bold and navigable stream, 3 ms. 
from James river and 15 above Hamp- 
ton Roads, on an elevated bank, about 
25 feet above the waters of the creek ; 
commanding a beautiful view of both 
land and water scenery, — the country 
for 10 ms. on the opposite side of 
James river is in full view. 

It contains 350 houses, some of 
them handsome, 10 general stores, 
and one apothecary shop, 3 spacious 
houses of public worship, 1 Episco- 
palian, 1 Baptist and 1 Methodist, 1 
hotel kept in the best style, and seve- 
ral boarding houses, a male and a 
female academy, in which are taught 
all the branches of polite education, 4 



other schools containing generally 
150 pupils jointly, children being 
.sent here to school from the surround- 
ing country, and some Irom great 
distances, in consequence of the heal- 
thiness of the place. The mechani- 
cal pursuits are 1 saddler, 1 cabinet 
maker, 2 tailors, working constantly 
several hands, 2 coach making estab- 
lishments, 1 extensive tannery; and 
in the vicinity 2 cotton manufactories. 
The Bacon curing busi7iess is car- 
ried on here to great perfection, more 
extensively and perhaps more profit- 
ably than in any other place in the 
U. S. The bacon cured here has 
long been celebrated for its superior 
flavor, and the manner in which it is 
cured ; — large quantities of it are 
shipped annually in coasting vessels; 
it commands the preference in all the 
markets, and it is a source of great 
revenue. The village is located on 
the main post road leading from Pe- 
tersburg to Norfolk 60 ms. from the 
former, and 40 from the latter. Popu- 
lation 850 persons; of whom 3 are 
attorneys and 3 regular physicians. 



JAMES CITY. 



J.\MEs City was one of the eight original shires, into which Virginia 
was divided bv the Legislature in 1634. It is bounded on the N. and N. 
W. by New Kent, AV. by the Chickahominy river, which separates it from 
Charles City ; S. by James river, which separates it from Surry, and E. 
by Warwick and York counties, and York river, separating it from Glou- 
cester. Its length is 23 miles; its mean breadth 8; and area 184 square 
miles; and it extends in lat. from 37° 09' to 37° 25' N. and in long, from 
0° 03' to 0° 24' E. of W. C. The surface of the county is in undulating 
hills. Population in 1820.3,161 — 1830,^3,833. It belongs to the third 
judicial circuit; and second district. Tax paid in 1832-3, S655 44, in 
1833-4 on land, 303 41 — 1001 slaves, )§250 25—397 horses, $23 82—2 
studs, 830 00—8 coaches, 817 00—2 carryalls, 82 00—81 gigs, $43 80. 
Total, 8670 28. In 1832 no school commissions report. Expended in 
1833 in educating poor children, 854 23. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 

James Town. This town the first jnow no longer exi.sts as a place of 
British seltloment in America (1607.) 'resort to the merchant or artizan; but 



198 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— JAMES CITY. 



the spot on which it stood must ever 
be full of interest to the Antiquarian 
and the Historian. The land on 
which it stood has been for a number 
of years in the family of the Amblers, 
and has been for some time past in 
cultivation. The only relic of the 
olden time, which is pointed out to 
the traveller, as he hurries past with 
the swiftness of the wind in the fleet 
and beautiful and modern steamers 
which navigate the James, is an 
old chimney, which we believe be- 
longed to a church. This old town, 
stood on a point of land projecting 
into James river in the southern part 
of James City Co., in lat. 37° 12' and 
long. 0° 14' E. of W. C. 

Stith, in his history of Virginia, 
(p. 160) says that in the latter end of 
June 1619 Sir George Yeardley, then 
Governor, called the first assembly 
that was ever held in Virginia, at 
Jamestown; which at that time and 
for many years afterwards was called 
James City. Counties not being then 
laid oft', the representatives of the 
people were elected by townships ; 
the Boroughs of Jamestown, Hen- 
rico, Bermuda Hundred and others, 
sending their members to the assem- 
bly; from which circumstances, the 
lower house was first called the House 
of Burgesses. The acts of this as- 
sembly, says Stith, were remitted to 
England and presented to the London 
Company, to be read in the court on 
the 20th March following; for the 
company had then the regal power of 
confirming or annulling the acts of 
assemblJ^ 

We refer to the compendious his- 
tory of Virginia, in the first part of 
this work, for more information con- 
cerning the history of James Town. 

WILLIAMSBURG, P. T. and 
seat of justice for James City county, 
situated on the summh level between 
the rivers of York and James ; six 
miles distant from each, though navi- 
crable streams for small vessels ap 



mile of the city, 60 miles E. of R. 
12 N. of York'Town, and 163 miles 
from W.— lat. 37° 16' and long. 0° 
20' E. of W.; immediately on the 
ine dividing the counties ol York 
and James City, embracing a part of 
each county in the corporation. This 
little city, though it has not advanced 
much in wealth or population, has 
many very interesting claims on the 
student of the U. S. It was the 
cradle of our political existence, and 
for a long time the seat of govern- 
ment of "infant Virginia." It now 
contains about 200 dwelling houses, 
some of which are going fast to de- 
cay, and more than 1500 inhabitants, 
many of whom are weahhy. It is 
pleasantly laid out in parallel streets, 
with a pleasant square in the centre 
of more than 10 acres, where is situ- 
ated the Court-house, Clerk's Office, 
and Markethouse, lately built, through 
which runs the principal street, east 
and west, one mile in length and more 
than 100 feet in width. There is also 
a beautiful green square fronting the 
old Palace, which was formerly the 
residence of the Colonial Governor. 
At one end of this street stands the 
remains of the old Capitol, which 
was consumed by fire, in April, 1832, 
and at the other William and Mary 
College. The place where this city 
now stands, and the adjacent country, 
was first known by the name of the 
Middle Plantations, and was settled 
in 1632, by drafts from the adjoining 
settlements, principally from James 
Town, 7 miles distant. This place 
became the seat of government of 
this colony in 1698, some short time 
previous to which a great fire occur- 
red at Jamestown, which consumed 
the public records, and a larger part 
of the town, and continued as such 
until 1779, when it was removed to 
Richmond. The old Raleigh Ta- 
vern, where many important commit- 
tees of the Legislature met — where 
some of our most distinguished pa- 



proach on either side, within one triots concerted measures for aiding 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— JAMES CITY. 



199 



in the arduous struggle for liberty, 
and where, it is said, Richard H. Lee 
and others originated the plan to es- 
tablish corresponding committees 
throughout many or all of the colo- 
nies, is yet remaining, and is occu- 
pied as a public house ; over the por- 
tico of which is placed a bust of Sir 
Walter Raleigh. William and Mary 
College, which was founded in 1603, 
during the reign of William and Mary, 
who granted to it a donation of 20,000 
acres of land; is situated at this 
place, and with various fortunes of 
advance and recession, has continued 
to exist as a respectable Literary In- 
stitution. Besides this donation it 
received a penny a lb. duty, on cer- 
tain tobaccos, exported from Virginia 
and Maryland, which had been levied 
by the statute of the 2.5th of Charles 
II. The Assembly also gave it, by 
temporary laws, a duty on liquors 
imported, and skins and furs export- 
ed. From these resources it received 
upwards of £3000, communibus an- 
nis. The buildings are of brick and 
sufficiently large for the accommoda- 
tion of 100 students. By its charter 
dated the 8th of February 1692, it 
was placed under the direction of not 
less than 20 Visitors, and to have a 
President and 6 Professors, who were 
incorporated. It was formerly al- 
lowed a representative in the General 
Assembly. Under this charter a pro- 
fessorship of the Greek and Latin 
languages, a professorship of Mathe- 
matics, one ot Moral Philosophy, and 
two of Divinity were established. 
To these were annexed, for a sixth 
professorship, a considerable donation,! 
by Mr Boyle of England, for the in- 
struction of the Indians and their' 
conversion to Christianity. This was 
called the professorship of Braflerton, 
from an estate of that name in Eng- 
land purchased with the monies given.! 
The admission of the learners of 
Latin and Greek filled the College; 
with children. This rendering itj 
disagreeable, and degrading to young 



men already prepared for entering on 
the sciences, they were discouraged 
from resorting to it, and thus the 
.school for Mathematics and Moral 
Philosophy, which might have been 
of some service, became of very lit- 
tle. The revenues too were exhaust- 
ed in accommodating those who came 
only to acquire the rudiments of sci- 
ence. After the revolution, the Visi- 
tors, having no power to change those 
circumstances in the constitution of 
the College, which Avere fixed by the 
barter, and being therefore confined 
in the number of professorships, un- 
dertook to change the object of the 
professorships. They excluded the 
two schools for Divinity, and that for 
the Greek and Latin languages, and 
substituted others. At present it has 
19 acting Visitors, and is under the 
superintendency of a President and 5 
Professors, embracing the Professor 
of Humanity, who has charge of the 
classical department. There is also 
a Law department in this Institution. 
Fronting the building is a beautiful 
Igreen square, of about 4 acres, In 
jthe Avalk leading from the gate to the 
College, stands the marble statue of 
Norborne Berkeley, (Lord Botte- 
tourt,) who was formerly GoAernor of 
jVirginia, and a man distinguished 
for love of piety, literature, and in the 
early part of his administration 
[good government, which was removed 
!from the old Capitol in 1797, where 
it was first erected, at the expense of 
the colony, in 1774. It is much 
uiutilated, though it still presents a 
specimen of superior sculpture. A 
very respectable Female Academy, 
and 3 other private schools are estab- 
lished in this place. 

There is also here a Lunatic Hos- 
pital, sufficiently large for the accom- 
modation of 60 patients, in separate 
rooms or cells; and an addition is 
now making to enlarge the building, 
by an increase of 24 cells. The hos- 
pital is neatly kept and the patients 
are well attended. Besides the court 



200 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— KING & QUEEN, 



house, and other public buildings 
mentioned, there is a public jail, an 
Episcopal church, Methodist chapel, 
and one Baptist meeting house. The 
public buildings were no doubt erect- 
ed at great expense, but now present 
the appearance of decaying grandeur. 
There are also 16 stores, 1 manufac- 
tory a short distance from the city, 4 
merchant mills in the vicinity, 3 tan- 
yards, 1 saddler's shop, and a num- 
ber of mechanics, who are generally 
employed, 2 benevolent societies, 9 
attornics, and 5 regular physicians., 



This city is remarkably healthy for 
9 months of the year. It has the 
reputation of being unhealthy the re- 
maining 3 months, though for many 
years past it has been quitethe reverse. 

County Courts are held on the Id 
Monday m every month; — Quarterly 
in March, May, August and Novem- 
ber. 

Judge Upshuu holds his Circuit 
Superior Courts of Law and Chan- 
cery on the 7th of April and the 22d 
of October. 



King «5c GIiieen was created by act of the Colonial Legislature in 1691, 
in the third year of the reign of William and Mary, and formed out of a 
part of New Kent county. It is bounded by Caroline on the N. W. — Es- 
sex N. E. — Piankatank river, separating it from Middlesex, E. — Gloucester 
S. E. — James river S. — and Matapony river, separating it from King Wil- 
liam S. W. and W. — Its length is 40 miles, mean width 1 1, and area 335 sq. 
miles — Extending in lat. from 36° 27' to 37° 56' N. and in long, from 0° 
18' E. to 0° 13' W. of W. C. The surface slopes southward towards Ma- 
tapony river, or southeastward towards Piankatank. Large and extensive 
ba}iks of 7narlc run entirely through the county, which furnish an inex- 
haustible source of improvement to this once barren soil: many of the most 
enterprising farmers have tried it, and the land which previously produced 
only six to eight bushels of maize or Indian corn to the acre, now bring 20 
and 25; and as might be anticipated from such a result a considerable spirit 
of improA'ement has been excited among the farmers. 3Iarshcs abound in 
this county, and if reclaimed would doubtless prove valuable. — No county 
in the state contains memorials of greater magnificence than King 6c Queen, 
— on the Matapony a beautiful stream which borders the southern part of 
the county, till it empties into the York river, are the vestiges of many an- 
cient and once highly improved seats. — Among these we might enumerate 
Lanei'illc — Plcnsa.yi't Hill — Ncwington — Maniapike — Mantua — Rickohoe 
— White Hall, ^-c. — known as the former residences of the Braxtons, Cor- 
bins, Robinsons, &c. The prevailing religion of King & Q,\iecn, is that 
of the Baptists, who have seven chinches, and five ministers. The Metho- 
dists have four houses of public worship. There is one free for all deno- 
minations, and one belonging to the reformed Baptists (or Campbellites.) 
There are four classical, and many common schools; one extensive manufac- 
turing flour mill, and 25 others, and 2 lanyards. Population 1820, 11,798 
— in 1830, 11,644. This county belongs to the fourth judicial circuit and 
second district. Taxes paid in l'833, S2340 91— in 1834, on lots, @1 79 — 
on land, >55 1042 18— 3064 slaves, $760 00— 1439 horses, $86 34— 5 studs, 
$82 00—50 coaches, $127 00—1 stage, $2 50—10 carryalls, $12 30— 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— KING <k QUEEN. 



201 



315 gigs, i?176 20— Total, S2296 31. Expended in educating poor chil- 
dren in 1832, 8320 22— in 1833, $329 37. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Bruinc.tox, p. O. 36 miles N. E. 
of R. and 240 from Washington; — 
situated in the N. E. part of the 
county. 

Carlton's Store, P. O. 44 ms. 
E. of R. and 137 from W. 

Clarkston, p. O. 32 ms. N. E. 
of R. and 115 from W. 

Dunkirk, P. O. some times called 
TodcVs bridge, 54 ms. N. E. of R.' 
and 140 S. W. of W. — It is situated! 
on the left bank of Mattapony river, i 
at the head of tide water, 60 miles a-j 
bovc York Town, on the main postj 
road leading from Richmond to Tap-] 
pahannock, 22 miles from the latter.; 
It now contains only one mercantile 
store, and two dwelling houses. Thisj 
place was at one time a village of 
considerable trade, it was the depot] 
for the merchandise, and much of the| 
agricultural produce of the contigu- 
ous upper country; but its extreme 
sickliness combined with other caus- 
es, has nearly obliterated it from ex- 
istence. There is a toll bridge across 
the Mattapony at this place, owned by 
a private individual. 

KING & aUEEN C. H. 49 ms. 
from Richmond, and 142 from Wash- 
ington, — situated on the flat lands ofj 
the Mattapony, about three quarters 
of a mile from the river. It contains 
besides the usual county buildings, 4' 
dwelling houses, 2 miscellaneous 
stores, a tavern, a magazine, and a tan- 
yard. There is in the vicinity a flour 
manufacturing mill and a gristmill 
which also has machinery for grinding 
and packing cotton. Population 14 
whites ; of whom 1 is an attorney, and 1 
a physician, and 40 colored — total 54. 
This village is proverbially unhealthy, 
being nearly surrounded by marshes, 
— to this circumstance may be attri- 
26 



buted the small amount of its popula- 
tion. 

Count ij Courts are held on the 2d 
Monday in every Yaon\.\\\— Quarter- 
ly in March, May, August and Nov^r. 

Judge Semple holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the \st Monday in Moaj and 
November. 

Little Plymouth, P. V. 57 ms. 
N. E. by E. of R. and 150 from W. 
situated in the southern part of the 
county. It contains 7 dwelling hous- 
es, one female seminary, which ave- 
rages from 25 to 30 pupils, one com- 
mon school, two coach and gig manu- 
factories, 2 mercantile stores, and 2 
smithshops. Population 50 persons; 
of whom one is a physician. 

Newtown, P. V. 38 ms. N. E. of 
R. and 99 S. W. of Washington- 
situated in the northern part of the 
county 3 miles north of the Mattapo- 
ny river. It contains 20 dwelling 
houses, one house of public worship 
belonging to the reformed Baptists (or 
desciples of Campbell,) 1 male semi- 
nary, averaging 30 pupils, 2 mercan- 
tile stores, a tailor, boot and shoe ma- 
ker, and a blacksmith, &c. Popula- 
tion 75. 

Patrick, P. O. The distances 
not mentioned on the P. O. list. 

Shackleford's, p. O. 67 ms. from 
R. and 160 S. of W. 

Stevensville, p. O. 31 ms. N. 
E. of R. and 130 S. of W. 

Walkerton, p. O. 30 ms. N. E. 
'of R. and 123 S. of W. — handsomely 
situated on the west bank of the Mat- 
tapony river, 10 miles from King ^ 
Queen C. H. and from Dunkirk. It 
contains 3 dwelling house~, 1 miscel- 
laneous store, and I extensive flour 
manufacturing mill. 



202 EASTERN VIRGINIA— KING GEORGE. 

KING GEORGE. 

King George was created by the legislature in 1720, from a part of 
Richmond County. It is bounded N. by the Potomac river, separating il 
from Charles County, Md. E. by Westmoreland, S. by the Rappahannock 
river, which separatts it from Essex and Caroline, and W. by Stafford. 
Its length is 18 ms. mean breadth 10, and area 180 sq. ms. It extends in 
lat. from 38° 11', to 38° 23' N. and in long, from 0° 03', E. to 0° 13' W. 
of W. C. The surface is hilly and soil diversified. Population in 1820, 
6,1 16 — in 1830, 6,S97. It belongs to the 5th judicial circuit and 3d district. 
Tax paid in 1832-3, $1,724 87— in 1833-4, on lots, $4 68— on land, 
5^1,023 09— on 1,931 slaves, $482 75—1,353 horses, $81 18—4 studs, 
§37 00—32 coaches, §75 95—14 carryalls, 814 00—73 gigs, $42 10. 
Total 81,760 75. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $249 92, 
in 1833, $225 27. 

TOWNS. VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Hampstead, p. O. in the S. E 
angle of the county, 96 ms. N. E. of 
R., and 86 ms. S. W. of W. Hamp- 
stead is called a village an the post 
office list, but is in truth merely an 
old established post office, perhaps 
the oldest in the county, and equally 
long known as a stand for a store. 
It is situated 1 mile from Boyd's 
hole on the western shore of the Po- 
tomac, and about 6 ms. N. E. of King 
George C. H. in a rich country: the 
staples of which are, corn, wheat and 
cotton. There are no manufactures 
in the Northern neck ; agriculture is 
the pursuit of the whole population. 
Within a mile and a half of Hamp- 
stead, there is a Protestant Episcopal 
church of the largest class of country 
churches, built of brick r — it is called 
St. Paul's, and its congregation em- 
braces all the middle and loAver part 
of the county. The Rev. Mr. Gold- 
smith is its present pastor. 

KING GEORGE C. H. P. O. 
situated near the centre of the county, 
88 ms. N. N. E. of R., and 78 ms. S. 
W. of W. There are besides the 
usual county buildings, 14 dwelling 
houses, 1 general store, and 1 tavern. 
The mechanics are, tailors, boot and 
shoe makers, saddlers, blacksmiths, 
&ic. Population 50 persons; of whom 
I is a physician. 



County Courts are held on the \si 
Thursday, in every month: — Quar- 
terly in March, June, August and 
Note77iber. 

Judge Lomax holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chancery, 
on the \si of May and 8/A of Octo- 
ber. 

MiLLviLLE, p. V. 97 ms. from R., 
and 87 ms. S. of W. This village 
contains 8 dwelling houses, 2 general 
stores, I grist mill, 1 blacksmith an^ 
i 1 shoemaker shop, and 19 inhabitants. 
Millville is situated on the head wa- 
ter of Rosier's creek, which divides 
King George and Westmoreland 
counties, so that a part of the village 
is in each county. 

Port Conway, P. V. and Sea. 
Port, 60 ms. from R., and 79 ms. S. 
oi W., situated on the N. side of the 
Rappahannock, opposite to P. Royal, 
in Caroline, in the S. W\ part of the 
county. It contains 13 dwelling 
houses, 2 mercantile stores, and seve- 
ral mechanics The land in the vi- 
cinity is considered fertile, and well 
adapted to corn and wheat, the only 
crops cultivated to any extent. The 
location is a beautiful one for a large 
town, the land extending back for 2 
ms. in a perfect level. Some years 
since there was a tobacro warehouse, 
and inspection at this place, and con- 



EASTERN A'IRGINIA— KING WILLIAM. 203 

siderablc trade carried on in that ar-jturned their attention to wheat and 
tide, but of late years the farmers corn. Population of Port Conway 
have abandoned its cultivation, and|35. 



KING WILLIAM. 

Kixo William was established by the legislature in 1701, and formed 
out of a part of King <fc Q,ueeu Co. It is bounded on the N. W. by the 
county of Caroline, on the S. and W. by the Pamunkey river, which sepa- 
rates "it from Hanover and New Kent, and on tlie N., and E. by the Matta- 
pony river, which .separate.? it from the county of King & Queen. Its 
mea'a length is 32 ms. — hs mean breadth 8A ms., and it contains 270 sq. 
ms. It extends in lat. from 37° 30', to 37° 57' N., and in long, from 0^ 
00' E. to 0' 19" W. of W. 

This county lie.s very much in the figure of an iso-sceles triangle, extend- 
ing from its boundary line with Caroline as its base, for a distance of 45 ms. 
between the two rivcr.s Pamunkey and Mattapony, lo their confluence at 
We-«t Point, the head of York river. These two branches of York river 
fertilize a large portion of this narrow county, and afford the mc^t conve- 
nient navigation, as well as fine shad and herring fisheries. Excellent 
oysters and crabs are taken in great abundance a few miles below West 
Point, and even at West Point, where the v^ater is strongly impregnated 
with salt. The Pamunkey is navigable by schooners carrying about 1.600 
bushels, from the Oyster-shdl Layiding, 2 ms. by land, below Balmey-s 
Fcrri/ ; which last point is considered the head of tide water, and is about 
35 ms. above West Point, and 16 ms. N. of the City of Richmond. The 
Mattapony is navigable by vessels of somewhat larger burthen, (say 2,000 
bushels) from Aylett's, a 'small village, on the S. bank of the river, about 30 
ms. above West Point, and 28 ms. N. of the City of Richmond, and 20 ms. 
from Tappahannock, in the county of Essex. Navigation is extended a 
few miles above Aylett's, to DunkiVk bridge by boats and small schooners, 
with light loads. With very trifling expense or trouble, the navigation 
might be made good lo Dunkirk for any vessel that could reach Aylett's. 
and the river might be readily and cheaply cleared out, so as to afTord good 
boat navigation many miles higher. 

The crops are chiefly of corn, and M'heat, altliough oats and cotton are 
profitably cultivated. Tobacco (as in most of the tide water counties) has 
been alrnost abandoned. Very profitable business may be. and no doubt 
will be done by shipping wood and timber for market from this county. 

Rumford Acadcmij is the only public seminary in the county worthy of 
notice. It is an excellent brick building, calculated to accommodate 40 or 
50 pupils with board, situated immediately on the road leading from Ay- 
lett's to the C. H. and 5 ms. distant from either place, in a very healthy 
and agreeable part of the county. This has been always esteemed an in- 
stitution of considerable mcrit^ and has generally enjoyed an excellent 
school, in which the usual branches of an academic education are taught. 
It is now in good hand.s, and may be justly recommended to the public, 
There is a Post Oflice at this Academy. 

This is a very relio:ious county, with but little, if any appearar.ce of bj- 
gotrv, intolerance or tanaticism. ' The Baptists are the most numerous sect. 



204 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— KING WILLIAM. 



of whom the Reformers constitute the larger portion. There is a very re- 
spectable congregation of Methodists, who have a large and excellent house 
for public worship, called Powell's chapel. There are also a kw Presby- 
terians, who usually attend religious worship at the Acquintaine church. 
There are 4 brick churches, viz: — Mangohick, Cat tail, Acquintaine and 
West Point Church. These churches are for the most part used by the 
Baptists, but free for all denominations. There is also an excellent Bap- 
tist meeting house called Beulah, used exclusively, it is believed by what 
are commonly denominated the old Baptists. Population in 1 820, 9,697 — 
in 1830, 9,319, whereof 3,389 were whites— and 5,930 blacks. This 
county belongs to the 4th judicial circuit and second district. Taxes paid 
in 1833, $2,565 87— in 1834, on lots, $20~on land, $1,238 76—3,319 
slaves, $829 75—1,655 horses, $99 30—7 studs, $100 00—67 coaches, 
$152 00—14 carryalls $14 00—222 gigs, $126 26. Total, $2,563 03. 
Expended ill educating poor children in 1832, $236 10— in 1833, $162 49. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Aylktt's p. V. 27 ms. N. E. of 
R., and 110 from W., situated at the 
head of navigation on the banks of 
Mattapony river, a branch of York 
river, about 30 ms. from its junction 
\vith the Pamunkey, to form York 
river. It contains 1 5 dwelling houses, 
3 mercantile stores, and 4 groceries. 
The mechanics are, tailors, house 
carpenters,wheel Wrights, blacksmiths, 
&c. Population 50 whites, and 60 
colored. Total 110. Aylett's, in 
proportion to the inhabitants it con- 
tains, is a place of considerable trade. 
Many thousand bushels of grain, are 
shipped annually to the neighboring 
markets, and coastwise. Vessels of 
easy draft of water can ascend up the 
Mattapony, and load at this village; 
but down about 8 ms. below the bar 
in the river, vessels of the burthen of 
3 to 4,000 bushels meet with no ob- 
struction in the navigation. In the 
vicinity of this place are several ma- 
nufacturmg flour mills, and 5 houses 
of public wor.ship, ,1 Episcopalian, 2 
Methodist, and 2 Baptist. 

Rwmfonl Arade/iny is situated 4 
ms. distant, and is a seminary ot re- 
spectable standing. The soil of the 
surrounding country, is light, sandy 
loam, and better adapted to the cul- 
ture of maize, cotton and peas, than 
wheat, or tobacco: and immediately on 



the river flats is quite productive. The 
inhabitants of the neighbourhood are 
intelligent, and in easy circumstances. 
Several handsome mansions are lo- 
cated near it, built in a modern and 
handsome style, and their fine appear- 
ance adds importance and beauty to 
this little village. 

Brandywine, lies at the intersec- 
tion of the road leading from Aylett's 
to Newcastle ferry, with the road lead- 
ing from Mechanicsville to the C. H. 
7 ms. from Aylett's, 4^, from Newcas- 
tle ferry, 10 ms. from the C. H. and 
5 from Mechanicsville. — It has an 
excellent tavern, a grocery, and gig 
maker. 

Enfield, P. O. 108 ms. from W. 
36 from R., and about 300 yds. froni 
Mechanicsville, and 3-2 ms. from 
Dabney's ferry, on the road leading 
from that ferry to Aylett's. It con- 
tains 2 stores, a blacksmith, shoema- 
ker, cabinet maker, saddler and har- 
ness maker, and a carpenters shop. 

GuKEN Mount, P. O. 33 ms. liom 
R. and 104 ms. from W. 

KING WILLIAM C. II., 27 ms. 
N. E. of R,, and 120 W. of S. fi'om 
W. E:, situated between the Mattapo- 
ny and Pamunkey rivers, 2 ms. from 
the former, and 5 from the latter, 6 
ms. distant both from l?umford Aca- 
demy and the Piping 'I'ree, 7 ms. from 



EASTERN VHiGINIA— LANCASTER. 



205 



Brandy wine, and 10 ms. from Aylctt's. 
It contains, besidos the usual county 
buildings, 8 dwelling houses, several 
mechanic shops, and 1 mercantile 
store. Some of the lots and buildings 
present a state of high improvement, 
and tasteful management, especially 
the public lots and buildings, consist- 
ing of a C. H., Clerk's ollice, and 2 
jails — all constructed of brick, and 
handsomely inclosed with an iron 
railing. The lot is laid off in a square 
which is beautifully set with grass, 
and shaded by a grove of locust trees. 
Population 7o persons; of whom 1 is 
an attorney, and 2 are regular physi- 
cians. 

Coufi/i/ Coil r Is are held on the il/i 
Monihii/ in every month; — Quarterly 
in March, May, Augasi and Novcm.- 
ber. 

Judge Sk.mplk holds his Circuit 
Superior (."ourt of Law and Chancery 
on the Ist of April nm\ September. 



L.\NEsviLi,E, P. O. 7 ms. below 
the C. H., has 2 stores, and several 
mechanics. 

Mangohick, p. O. 102 ms. from 
W., and 40 from R. There is here 
a store, blacksmith shop, gig maker, 
shoemaker, and tailor's shop. Dis- 
tant 10 ms. from Aylett's. 

PiriXG Tree, P. V. 20 ms. N. 
E. of H., and 127 from W., situated 
on the Pamunkey river, 10 ms. S. 
of Aylett's, though called a village, 
yet it is not remarkable for any thing 
more than a comfortable tavern house 
and ferry on the road leading direct 
to R. 

RuMFORD Academy, P. O., 115 
ms. a little S. of W. from W., and 32 
N. E. of R., situated on Mattapony 
river, 6 ms. below Aylett's, and ms. 
above the C. H. The mail arrives 
twice a week. (Sec above in descrip- 
tion of the county.) 



I^ANCASTF.R. 

Lancaster was created by the legislature in 1652; — we are not informed 
from what county it was taken. It is bounded N. by Richmond and Northum- 
berland counties, E. by Northumberland, and the Chesapeake, S. and W. 
by the Rappahannock river, which separates it from Middlesex. Its length 
is 24 ms., mean breadth 8, and area 300 sq. ms., and it extends in lat. from 
27° 35', to 37° 55' N., and in long, from 0^ 22', to 0° 40' E. of W. C. It 
is deeply indented on its Rappahannock border with several small but very 
convenient bays. Population in 1820, 5,517 — in 1830, 4,801. It belongs 
to the 5th judicial circuit and 3d district. Tax paid in 1832-3, $971 25 — in 
1833-4, on land, $462 86—1,385 slaves, $346 25—638 horses, $38 28— 
2 studs, $16 00—29 coaches, $60 00—7 carryalls, $7 00—108 gigs, 
$59 40. Total, $989 79. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, 
$117 90. 



TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



LANCASTER C. H., P. V., sit- 
uated near the centre of the county, 
83 ms. N. E. of R., and 145 ms. S 
S. E. of W. Besides the usual coun- 
ty buildings, it contains about 30 
dwelling houses, 3 mercantile stores, 
and 1 tavern. Various mechanical 



pursuits are carried on. Population 
80 persons; of whom 1 is an attor- 
ney, and 1 a physician. 

County Courts are held on the drd 
Monday in every month : — Quarterly 
in March, May, August and Norem- 
be.r. 



206 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— LOUDOUN. 



Judge Lomax holds his Circuit :the Post Office was located herein 
Superior Court of Law and Chance-|l818. It has 2 dwelling houses, 1 
ry, on the 25th of May, and 2Sth o/ country store, a blacksmith and tailor 
October. ' shop. 

Kilmarnock, P. V. situated on a Pain's y. Roads, P. O. 52 ms. 
small creek of Chesapeake bay, 90 [from W., and 72 ms. from R., situated 
ms. N. E. by E. of R., and 153 ms. jbetwecn the Rappahannock, and Car- 
from W., about 16 ms. N. of the jrotoman rivers, 15 ms. from the mouth 
mouth of Rappahannock river, and jof the former, and 5 ms. from the 
1^ ms. from the navigable waters ofimouth of the latter. In the neck 
Chesapeake bay. It contains 40 called Carrotoman, which runs N. 



dwelling houses, 3 mercantile stores, 
and 1 tavern. Vario\is mechanical 
pursuits are carried on: and in the 
neighbourhood in different directions, 
are 4 houses of public worship, 1 
Episcopalian, I Baptist, and 2 Metho- 
dist. Population 130 persons; of 
whom 1 is a physician. 

NuTTsviLLE, P. V. in the northern 
part of the county. 138 ms. S. S. E. 
of W., and 76 N. E. by E. of R., sit- 
uated 7 ms. above Lancasier C. //., 
in a N. W. direction, and about 2 ms 



and S. for the distance of 10 ms. be- 
tween those 2 rivers. Some 8 or 10 
years back, this was a place of con- 
siderable trade, but at present, it con- 
tains only 4 or 5 dwelling houses, a 
school, a Baptist meeting house, and 
2 boot and shoe factories. Popula- 
tion 40. The soil is fertile, producing 
well. The principal crops are wheat, 
Indian corn, and cotton. Though 
situated between 2 large commercial 
rivers, not more than 1 mile from 
either, the view is entirely obstructed 



from the Rappahannock river. Thisjby an immense growth of oak, and 
place was established 35 or 40 years^pine woods, an article of considerable 
since, by a person by the name of value in the trade of this section of 
Wm. D, Nutt, (hence Nuttsville) and'country. 



LOUDOUN. 

Loudoun Avas created by the Legislature in the year 1757, and formed 
from a part of Fairfax county. It is bounded on the N. by the Potomac, 
which separates it from Frederick county, Maryland, and on the N. E. by 
the same river, separating it from Montgomery county, Md,, — E. by Fair- 
fax, — S. by Prince William and Fauquier, — and W. by the Blue Ridge 
which separates it from Frederick and Jefferson counties. Its length is 
from S. E. to N. W. 22 miles, mean breadth 21, and area 468 square miles; 
and it extends in lat. from 38° 42' to 39° 18' N. and in long, from 0° 20' 
to 0° 54' W. of W. C. 

The most prominent feature of this county is its ranges of mountains. 
The blue Ridge divides this county from Frederick and Jefferson, the line 
running on the summit. It presents here that uniformity and general ap- 
pearance, Avhich characterizes it, throughout this State, having gaps or de- 
pressions every eight or ten miles, through which the public roads pass. 
Its altitude here varies from about 1000 to 1400 feet above tide water, and 
from 300 to 700 feet above the adjacent country; and its course is about 
S. S. W. Another range of nearly equal heitht. and similar features, called the 
Short Hills commences at the Potomac river about 4 miles below Ilarper's 
Ferry, running parallel to the ridge and extending about 9 miles into the 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— LOUDOUN. 207 

county, where it is broken by a branch of Kittoctan Creek passing through 
it ; beyond which it immediately rises again, and extends about 3 miles 
further, where it abruptly terminates. A third range called the Kittoctan 
mountain commences at the Potomac river, opposite the Point of Rocks in 
Maryland, about 12 miles below Harper's Ferry, and runs parallel to the 
Blue Ridge, nearly through the county; and forms a valley of about 10 
miles wide, from the northern to the southern boundary of the county. 
This mountain does not probably exceed an average of more than 300 
feet above the surrounding country, though some of its peaks may attain 
an altitude of 600 feet. It rises near the Potomac into one of its highest 
peaks, and in the same range becomes alternately depressed and elevated 
several times, until it reaches the neighborhood of Waterford, where it di- 
vides itself into several branches, and presents the appearance of an elevat- 
ed and hilly country, deeply indented by the severals streams that rises in 
its bosom. 

On reaching the Leesburg and Snicker's Gap turnpike road, a distance 
of 11 or 12 miles, it expands to 3 miles in width, and continues much the 
same until after it is broken by Goose Creek, and its tributary the N. W. 
Fork, when it gradually loses itself in the hills of Goose Creek and Lit- 
tle river, before reaching the Ashby's Gap turnpike. Immediately S. of 
Aldie on Little river, another range commences called the Bull Run moun- 
tain, and e.xtends in a single range into Fauquier county. This range 
might properly be considered a continuation of the easternmost range of the 
Kittoctan, as its course and some of its features correspond very nearly 
with it, save only that it is higher than any of the ranges of the latter, ex- 
cept the western. No range of mountains or even hills of much eleva- 
tion exists E. of the Kittoctan, that being the first range met with above 
tide water. Three or four detached hills, with an elevation of 100 or 200 
feet above the adjacent country, are on the M^aters of the N. W. Fork of 
Goose Creek, and are all that are deemed worthy of notice. 

It may be perceived, on reference to the map, by the course of the waters, 
that the general slope of the county is to the N. E. The streams that 
rise in the Blue Ridge mostly run to the E., until they approach the Kit- 
toctan mountain, where they either turn more to the N. or S. to pass that 
range by the N. W. Fork and Goose Creek, or by the Kittoctan creek 
that falls into the Potomac, above the Point of Rocks. E. of the Kittoc- 
tan mountain the streams generally pursue a N. course. The Kittoctan 
creek is very crooked, its basin does not exceed about 12 miles from N. to 
S. and includes the whole width of the valley between the mountains, ex- 
cept a small portion in the N. E. angle of the county; and yet its whole 
course measuring its meanders would exceed 35 miles in length ; and it 
has a fall of 180 feet in the last 18 miles of its course, and is about 20 yards 
wide near its mouth. Goose Creek where it enters the county from Fau- 
quier, is a considerable stream and pursues generally a N. E. course, and 
receives many small streams, until it passes the first range of the Kittoctan 
mountain, where it receives a large tributary, the N. W. Fork. The latter 
stream rises in the Blue Ridge, and pursues a S. E. course, and unites 
whh the Beaver Dam, coming from the S. W. immediately above the Kit- 
toctan mountain, where their united waters pass by a narrow valley to 
Goose Creek. After receiving the N. W. Fork, the main stream pursues 
generally an E. N. E. course for a few miles further, where it receives the 
Little river from the S. This stream rises in Fauquier county W. of the 



208 EASTERN VIRGINIA— LOUDOUN. 

Bull Run mountain, and enters this county a few miles above Aldie, and 
pursues a N. and N. E. course until after passing that toAvn, when it turns 
more northwardly and falls into Goose Creek. The now increased stream 
meanders a little more to the N. E. and N. and finally falls into the Poto- 
mac, 4 miles N. E. of Leesburg. Its length in this county is about 30 
miles, and it has a fall of 100 feet, in the last 22 miles of its course. It 
drains nearly one half of the county, and is about 60 yards wide at its 
mouth. 

Broad Run the next stream of consequence, E. of Goose Creek, rises in 
Prince William county, and pursues a N. course with some mcanderings 
through this county, and falls into the Potomac about 4 miles below the 
mouth of Goose Creek. Sugar Land run, a smaller stream, rises partly 
in this county, though its course is chiefly in Fairfax county, and falls into 
the Potomac at the N. E. angle of this county. In the S. E. angle of the 
county several streams rise and pursue a S. and S. E. course, and consti- 
tute some of the upper branches of Occoquan river. 

This county is not rich in minerals, though there are some small indi- 
cations of Iron ore in several places. A furnace formerly existed at the E. 
base of the Kittoctan mountain, on the margin of the Potomac river, but 
has been out of blast for a good many years, owing to the scarcity of fuel. 
The ore in the vicinity is said to be abundant, and the water- power there used 
was obtained from the Kittoctan creek, W. of the mountain, by excavating 
a tunnel through one of its spurs, 500 feet through the rock and 60 feet 
below the surface of the hill. Magnetic iron ore has been found in some 
places, and that, or some other similar substance, has an effect upon the 
needle of the surveyor's compass, and renders surveying very difficult 
where great accuracy is required. In some instances the needle has been 
known to be drawn 7° from its true course. This efl^ect is more or less 
observed nearly throughout the Kittoctan mountain, and in many other 
places in the county. In one place it is said that silver has been obtained 
in small quantity, and in another place there is an indication of copper ore, 
but whether sufficiently rich to justify working, remains to be tested. 
Small angular lumps of a yellowish colored substance have been found in 
a few places, embedded in rock, and supposed to contain sulpher, from the 
s^ifong sulphurous smell given out on its being exposed to a strong heat. 
Limestone has not been found in many places near the surface of the 
ground in this county. It is found in Digg's valley and some other places, 
and quarries are worked N. E. of Waterlbrd, on the E. side of the Black 
Oak Ridge, and at the base of the Kittoctan mountain, where Goose Creek 
first approaches it. Near the latter place, marble is found of an excellent 
quality, but has not been worked much. In the vicinity of Leesburg and 
N. of it, and between the Kittoctan mountain and the Potomac river, a 
colcareous rock is found in abundance, apparently formed of pebbles 
cemented together, and similar in formation to that used for the pillars of 
the Representatives Hall in the Capitol at Washington, and commonly 
known as the Potomac marble ; when burnt it produces an inferior lime. 

There are several mineral springs in the county of the class called 
Chalybeate, and several springs and wells that are aflccted with lime. 

Many varieties of stone are found in this county, among which are 
granite very abundant, home blende, gneiss, quartz, and as before observed, 
limestone and marble. Much of it however, on or near the surface, ap- 
pears to be a variety of granite and hornc blende. The latter kind is frc- 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— LOUDOUN. 209 

quently found in round or oval masses, and in that form it is almost impos- 
sible to break it. White flint is met with frequently, and blue flint occa- 
sionally, throughout the county, on or near the surface, but seldom in large 
nias.ses or deep in the ground. Small pointed stones of different kinds of 
flint, and supposed to be Indian darts, are occasionally found, as also some 
rare varieties of stones, of a singular form, and exhibiting some curious 
phenomena. Some few years ago, a stonemason broke a stone on the Kittoc- 
tan mountain, and found it to contain a shell resembling an oyster shell 
filled with sand petrified. 

The ditierent strata of rocks and earth, throughout the county, have a 
direction parallel with the mountain, and an elevated position inclining to 
the west, evidently shewing some general cause in their formation. 

Perhaps no county in the State is better watered for all purposes except 
manufacturing in times of drought. The springs are generally small and 
very numerous, and many of them are very lasting tho' liable to be effect- 
ed by drought. In such cases by absorption, and evaporation, the small 
streams arc frequently exhausted before uniting and render the larger ones 
too light for manufacturing purposes. Many of our farms might be 
divided into fields of ten acres each and have running water in each of 
them in ordinary seasons. But one spring in the county is large enough 
to turn a mill, and that is near Leesburg, on which is a large merchant 
mill capable of manufacturg 75000 bushels of wheat in a year. 

The mo.st common growth of timber found here, is the white, black, 
Spanish, red, and box oak ; hickory and green maple ; white and yellow 
poplar; black and white walnut, ash, sassafras, dogwood, chesnut, and 
chesnut oak on the mountains, peach oak (so called from the resemblance 
of its leaves to that of the peach tree;) in low grounds and near the mar- 
gin of stream.s, is the sycamore, red, and slippery elm, birch and some 
beech; the persimmon, black and red haw or white thorn is common and 
the Virginia thorn, suitable for hedging, is found in the eastern part of the 
county. Common locust is found in part of the county; the quaking asp 
is occasionally met with, and so is the yellow pine ; and on some of the 
cliffs of Goose Creek and Beaver Dam, the hemlock or spruce pine is to 
be found. The wild May cherry or service berry, the witch hazel, fringe 
tree, red bud, papaw and spicev/ood are not uncommon. Three varieties 
of the largo grape commonly called fox grape, and several kinds of lesser 
grapes, are found here, and were formerly very common. 

Almost every kind of fruit common to this climate succeeds well, espo- 
cially apples, peaches, cherries, plums, quinces and grapes : the farmers 
generally are very remiss in improving their orchards by selecting good 
fruit, but lately more attention has been paid to that subject and the good 
eficcts arc becoming visible. 

This county contains all the varieties of soil, from a rich alluvian to that 
of an unproductive clay. That part of it lying E. of a line drawn from 
the Potomac river near Leesburg by Aldie to the Fauquier line, is much 
more unproductive than that part to the W. partly on account of an infe- 
rior soil, and partly in consequence of that wretched system of farming 
hitherto too much practised in Virginia, of cropping with corn and to- 
bacco, without endeavoring to improve the quality of the soil. Some of 
it that formerly produced 30 or 40 bushels of corn to the acre is now 
thrown out to the commons, and considered useless. A good deal of this 
pirt of the county is very level, and has a clay soil, and is more produc 
27 



210 EASTERN VIRGINIA— LOUDOUN. 

tive in grass than grain. The other section or about three-fourths of the 
county has generally a good soil, and is very susceptilbe of improvement. 
The quality of the grain is good. Gypsum, or plaster of Paris, and clover 
act wonderfully in improving the soil, as well as barnyard manures. 

The staple articles are flour, wheat, pork and beef. Most of the wheat 
is manufactured into flour in the county, and the rye, corn, oats, and buck- 
wheat is mostly consumed at home. Much excellent pork is fattened in 
this county, and many hundred head of cattle are annually grazed to sup- 
ply the Baltimore and District markets. All kinds of vegetables common 
to this climate succeed well. 

The citizens of this county are characterized by a commendable spiritof 
internal improvement. A charter has been obtained and some subscrip- 
tions towards forming a company to improve the navigation of Goose Creek 
and some of its tributaries by a lock and dam system, and a charter also 
to form a company to m.ake a rail road from the mouth of the Kittoctan 
creek opposite the' Point of Rocks in Maryland, to Upperville in Fauqnier 

county. • -L i- 

A very considerable contrast is observable in the manners of the mhabi- 
tants in different sections of the county. That part of it lying N. AV. of 
Waterford was originally settled principally by Germans, and is now called 
the German settlement, and the middle of the county S. W. of Waterford 
and W. of Leasburg, was mostly settled by emigrants from the middle 
States, many of whom were members of the society of Friends. In these 
two sections the firms are generally from one to three hundred acres each 
and are mostly cultivated by free labor. In the S. and E. parts of the county 
the farms are many of them much larger and principally cultivated by slave 
labor. 

Very extensive prospects may be seen on some of the summits of the 
Blue Ridge. From the east side nearly all Loudoun, v/ith a good deal of 
Fairfax and Fauquier, is in full view, also a considerable part of Culpeper, 
and Prince William counties in this State, with Frederick and Montgo- 
mery counties of Maryland, and even some of Prince George county E. of 
Washington City. From the W. side of the summits may be seen She- 
nandoah, Frederick, Berkley, and JefTerson counties in this State— with 
Washington county, Maryland, and some of the mountain summits of 
Pennsylvania. 

Population in 1820, 22,702— in 1830, 21.939. This county belongs to 
the sixth judicial circuit and third district. Taxes paid in 1833, $8720 78 
—in 1834 on lots, $522 63— on land, $6205 41—3021 slaves, 8755 25— 
8399 horses, 8503 94—41 studs, 8381 00—74 coaches, 8160 00—123 
carryalls, 815 29—47 gigs, $37 80. Total, 88817 32, Expended i» 
educating poor children in 1832, $1230 18— in 1833, $1073 60. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Aldie, p. O. 149 ms. from R., and 
41 ms. from W., situated at the junc- 
tion of Snicker's Gap turnpike, with 
Little river turnpike, on Little river, 
at the point which it passes between 
Kittoctan and Bull Run mountains 



and 146 from R., situated on the main 
stage road, leading from Alexandria 
to Winchester, and distant from the 
former 29 ms., about a mile and a 
half from Arcold is Gum Spiiing, a 
small village containing 8 dwelling 



Arcold, P. O. 33 ms. W. of W., houses, 2 mercantile stores, 1 tanyard, 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— LOUDOUN. 



211 



1 blacksmith shop and a distillery. 
Population 20. This section of coun- 
try is thickly settled, though the land 
is generally poor. 

Bloomfield, p. V. 51 ms. N. W. 
by W. of W., and 1G8 from R., situat 
e^ within a mile of Snickersville. It 
contains 12 dwelling houses, 2 mer- 
cantile stores, 1 tan3^ird, 1 tin plate 
worker, 1 tailor, 1 cabinet maker, 1 
boot and slioe factory: and in the vi- 
cinity there is a Baptist house of wor- 
ship in which a school is kept. Pop- 
ulation 40. 

Edward's Fkrry, P. O. This^ 
ferry is across the Potomac, at the: 
point at which the road crosses that 
river between Rockville, in Mont-j 
gomery county, Maryland and Lees! 
burg, on the upper side of the mouth; 
of Goose creek, 21 ms. a little N. of^ 
W. from Rockville, 4 ms. N. E. of 
Leesburg, and 31 ms. N. W. of W.| 
The P. O. is on the Maryland side. 

Grigosvillk, p. V. 40 ms. W. of; 
W., and 162 from R. This place j 
received a charter of incorporation a' 
few years since, but has not progres- 
sed in improvement, — 1 family, a 
store and a P. O. are all it yet con- 
tains, although it is situated in a fer- 
tile and densely settled country, 9 ms. 
W. of Leesburg, the county seat, 12 
ms. S. of Waterford, and the same 
distance S. E. of Hillsborough, 8 ms, 
E. of Snickersville, 6 ms. N. E. of 
Middleburg, and 8 ms. W, of Aldie. 

GosiiEX, a small village in the 
southern part of the county, about 35 
ms. W. of W. 

Hamilton's Store, P. 0. 159 
ms. from R. and 37 from W. 

Hillsborough, at the eastern 
foot of the Blue Ridge, in the north- 
ern part of the county, 43 ms. N. N. 
W. of W., and 16.5" from R. It is 
pleasantly situated in the midst of a 
fine fertile country, and business like 
neigborhood, about 4 ms. E. of the 
Blue Ridge mountain, on the public 
road le.iding from Harper's ferry to 
Leesburg, 10 ms from the former, 



and 13 ms. from the latter. A line 
of stages passing from Harper's ferry, 
to Leesburg, passes through this 
place, and unhes at the latter place 
with one leading to Washington — 4 
mails a week are received at Hills- 
borough. It contains 30 dwelling 
houses, 3 mercantile stores, 1 Metho- 
dist house of worship, 1 Academy, 2 
flour manufacturing mills, 1 tavern 
and a temperance society. The me- 
chanics are a tanner, saddler, boot 
and shoe manufacturer, tailor, hatter, 
cabinet maker, 2 wagon makers, and 
1 blacksmith. Population 172 per- 
sons: of whom 1 is a physician. 

Holme's Mill, P. O. 40 ms. W 
of W. and 162 from R. 

HovsviLLE, P. O. 43 ms. from W. 
and 165 from R. The country around 
is thickly settled and generally 
healthy: the quality of the land is 
equal to any in Virginia ; the princi- 
ral products of the soil, are wheat, 
rye, corn, and oats, which are raised 
in great abundance. Hoysville lies 
to the E. of Kittoctan mountain, and 
1^ ms. from Kittoctan creek, about 2 
ms. S. of Potomac river, and 3 ms. 
distant from the Point of Rocks, at 
which the Chesapeake and Ohio Ca- 
nal, and the Baltimore and Ohio Rail 
Road meet. There are several flour 
manufacturing mills in the neighbor- 
hood, and mechanics of almost every 
description. 

HuGHEsviLLE, P. 0. 4 ms. from 
Leesburg, and 35 ms. N. W. of W., 
and 158 ms. from R. 

LEESBURG, P. V. and Seat of 
Justice, 31 ms. N. W. of W. C. and 
153 N. of R. in lat. 39^ 07', and long. 
0° 0' W. of W. C. It is a well built, 
and neat village, located near a small 
ridge of mountains. The environs 
are wavmg and well cultivated, and 
delightfully variegated by hill and 
dale. Ii contains about 500 houses. 
22 general stores, 3 houses of public 
worship. 1 Presbyterian, 1 Episcopa- 
lian, and 1 I^lethodist, a Bank (branch 
of the Valley bank,) in a large hand- 



212 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— LOUDOUN. 



some banking hoixse, 2 apothecaries 
shops, 3 schools for males, 1 classical, 
and 2 English, 3 for females, 2 of which 
have attained some celebrity, and 4 
taverns. The mechanical pursuits 
are 3 tanners, 3 saddlers, 4 boot and 
shoe factories, 3 tailor establishments, 
4 house carpenters, 1 cabinet maker, 
3 tin plate workers, 1 copper smith, 
1 white and lock smith, 3 black- 
smiths, 2 silver smiths, 1 coach ma- 
ker, 1 turner and chair maker, 1 
\vagon maker, 2 hat factories, 2 print- 
ing offices, each issuing a weekly 
paper; and all other necessary me- 
chanics for an inland town. The 
Eublic buildings are large, convenient, 
andsome and substantial. The C. 
H in the centre of a square well en- 
closed with a brick wall, the market 
house and jail of brick. The town 
is situated a quarter of a mile E. of 
Kittoctan mountain, on a high and 
healthy plain, 1^ ms. N. of Potomac 
river, and 2 ms. N. of Goose creek, 
surrounded by a fertile and well cul- 
tivated country adapted to the growth 
ot wheat, Indian corn, and tobacco — 
the former the staples. The streets 
are well paved, and the town, sup- 
plied with fine water, in pipes of 
wood, ft-om a spring issuing at the 
base of Kittoctan mountain. It is 
governed by a Mayor and 1 2 Coun- 
cillors, and is not excelled for morali- 
ty by any town in Virginia. Popu- 
lation 1,700 persons; of whom 5 are 
practising physicians, 2 dentists and 
7 resident attorneys. 

County Courts are held on the 
2nd Monday in every month : — 
Quarterly in March, June, August 
and November. 

Judge Scott holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chancery 
on the 2l5< of April and Sejpt ember. 
LovF.TTsviLLE, P. V. in the N. 
W. part of the county, 48 ms. N. W. 
of W. and 170 from R. It contains 
14 private dwellings, 4 mercantile 
stores, 1 German reformed church, 
and 1 Presbyterian church now being | 



erected, 2 boot and shoe factories, 1 
cabinet maker, 1 tailor, 1 saddler, 1 
milliner and mantua maker, and 1 
tavern. It is situated 7 ms. distant 
from Harper's ferry, 2 ms. from Poto- 
mac river, 6 ms. from the Point of 
Rocks, 7 ms. from Watcrford, and 8 
ms. from Hillsboro. This village is 
in a flourishing condition, being lo- 
cated in the centre of a German 
neighborhood, the inhabitants of which 
are industrious and wealthy. 

MiDDLEBUUG, P. V. on Goosc 
creek, the S. S. W. part of the county, 
46 ms. N. W. by W. of W. and 143 
ms. from R., situated 12 ms. from the 
top of the Blue Ridge, at Ashby's 
Gap, the corner of Loudoun and 
Fauquier counties, \ of a mile from 
the Fauquier line, and 16 ms. from 
Leesburg, the County Scat. It con- 
tains 70 dwelling houses, 7 mercan- 
tile stores, selling on an average 
$80,000 worth of goods per annum, 
2 houses of public Avorship, 1 metho- 
dist, and 1 free for all denominations, 
1 classical school, 1 Engli.sh school 
for males, 2 female academies and 2 
hotels. The mechanical pursuhsare 
1 tanner and currier, 2 coach manu- 
facturers, 2 boot and shoe factories, 2 
wagon makers, 2 blacksmiths, 1 chair 
maker, 2 tailors, 1 cabinet maker, 2 
house carpenters, 2 saddlers, and 3 
milliner, and mantua makers. Mid- 
dleburg is a growing and prosperous 
village, surrounded by a beautiful and 
fertile country. Its situation is ele- 
vated and airy, — the houses are not 
crowded, but scattered regularly over 
several gradually rising eminences. 
The face of the surrounding country 
is diversified and picturesque, — both 
from the aspect of its rolling or waved 
surface, and the richness and fertility 
of soil. There are within the cir- 
cumference of 10 ms. 18 flour manu- 
facturing mills, all plentifully filled, 
by the annual harvest. The land 
producing on the average acre, about 
25 bushels of superior wheat. — 
The village and neighborhood are 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— LOUDOUN. 



213 



plentifully watered, large flowing 
streams abounding in the country 
around. The village itself contains 
numerous and inexhaustible wells of 
the purest and best water. There 
are some sulphur and other medici- 
nal springs in the neighbourhood, 
which have not had that attention 
paid to them which they deserve, but 
which in a few years will most pro- 
bably become public resorts. Popu- 
lation 430 persons; of whom 2 are 
attorneys and 1 practising physicians. 

Mount Gilead, P. V. 37 ms. 
N. W. of W., and 159 ms. from R. 
It is situated nearly in the centre of 
this fertile and wealthy county, on the 
Kittoctan Mountain, at the intersec- 
tion of two public roads, one leading 
from Snickers Gap to Alexandria — 
the other through a line of towns 
from the S. to Philadelphia. The 
site of this village is a beautiful emi- 
nence, which rises to a moderate 
height, in a wide gap, or opening in 
the mountain. From the bleak winds 
of the north it is protected, by a much 
higher summit of the same mountain. 

The prospect from this place is 
most varied and extensive. To the 
E. and S. is a beautiful rolling moun- 
tainous country. But it is on the W. 
side of the village that the curious 
may behold the finest scenery in na- 
ture. Here a valley opens to view 
about 10 ms. wide, extending between 
the Kittoctan, and Blue mountains as 
far as the eye can reach ; diversified 
by hills and dales, fields and forests: 
it is equalled only in scenery of ro- 
mantic grandeur and sublimity, by 
the distant mountains which border it. 

Here, also, being the lower part of 
the mountain, is the natural as well 
as artificial passage to mill, market, 
court, &-C. for the citizens of the sur- 
rounding country. 

Combining so many natural ad- 
vantages, this place was purchased 
by the present proprietor in 1821. — 
It has since been laid out for a town, 
21 lots have been disposed of, and 10 



dwelling houses arc in difTcrent stages 
of progression. 

The ground plot of the town con- 
sists of 3 parallel streets, 2 of which 
are more than I a mile long, inter- 
sected by 8 other streets at right an- 
gles. The distance from Leesburg, 
Middleburg, Union, and Aldie, is re- 
spectively about 8 ms. and as those 
are the nearest towns it has to com- 
pete with, considering the density of 
the population, and the productive- 
ness of the country, it is calculated 
that two good establishments of every 
kind of business would be well sup- 
ported here. And the superior 
healthiness of the place will ensure to 
tradesmen and mechanics the great- 
est advantages; to boarding school 
and infirmary institutions the most 
eligible situation. It contains at pre- 
sent 1 mercantile store, 1 handsome 
school house built expressly for the 
purpose, and the Methodist society 
hold their meetings for worship there- 
in; an infirmary, which is an infant 
institution intended for the restoration 
of persons laboring under chronic 
diseases, and which has been attended 
with unusual success, — 2 boot and 
shoe factories, 1 cooper's shop, 2 cabi- 
net makers; and in the vicinity there 
is a large and spacious house of pub- 
lic worship (Baptist.) This place 
must rise in importance as it is lo- 
cated in a healthy, fertile district ; a 
canal or slack water navigation is 
about to be constructed on Goose 
creek, 1 branch of which will termi- 
nate within less than a mile of the 
corporation. Population 62 persons; 
of whom 1 is a practising physician. 

MoNTviLLE, P. O. 46 ms. N. W. 
of W. and 154 ms. from R., situated 
upon the Snicker's Gap turnpike 
road, distant 1 ^ ms. both from the wa- 
ters of Goose creek, and Beaver Dam. 
There is over the latter, an excellent 
one arch stone bridge, and over the 
former, a superior wooden arched 
bridge. Montvillc contains several 
dweljng houses, I mercantile store, 



214 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— LOUDOUN. 



2 taverns, 1 manufacturing flour mill, 
2 smith shops, 2 boot and shoe facto- 
ries, and various other mechanics. 
Population 71. 

The land in this neighborhood is 
remarkably good, and is valued in 
market at 35 and 40 dollars an acre. 
The principal pursuit of the inhabi- 
tants, is agriculture, — cattle grazing 
is also followed to some extent. 
There are several quarries in the 
neighborhood, I called Mounts quarry 
is of superior whetstone, and situated 
on the banks of Goose creek; near 
which there are very strong indica- 
tions of slate. The neighborhood 
abounds with lime of the best quality, 
and various other minerals. 

Noland's Ferry, P. O. 43 ms. 
N. W. of W., and 165 from R. The 
P. O. is situated a little above the 
mouth of Monocacy river. 

Oatland Mills, P. O. 37 ms. N. 
W. of W. and 154 from R. But for 
its locality, this P. O. would deserve 
no further notice than is taken in this 
work of many others of the same im- 
portance: but although of little ac- 
count, in point of revenue, it is of 
great utility to a populous neighbor- 
hood, and furnishes one of the deside- 
rata for this Gazetteer, as the large 
body of land which is included in the 
Oatland tract, affords a tolerable cri- 
terion of the soil for some miles N. 
and S. of it. Bordering on the Kit- 
toctan mountain, the soil is stiff and 
stony, except such as is adjacent to 
water courses, or the base of hills, 
where it receives the benefit of large 
supplies of decayed matter, rendering 
it loamy and inexhaustible: but in the 
main, it is of a generous quality, re- 
ceiving plaister and clover as its sta- 
ple manure, which it so pertinacious- 
ly retains, as to defy the washing of 
the heaviest rains: and still it is an 
anomaly, that some of the richest por- 
tions of this soil will not produce 
wheat — while rye, oats, and corn, sel- 
dom fail to equal the most sanguine 
hopes of the cultivator. There is, 



perhaps, no section of country E. of 
the Blue Ridge, which better deserves 
the appellation of pasture land, than 
this; for there are very few parcels 
where the white clover does not grow 
spontaneously in the greatest abun« 
dance. In this section of country na- 
ture has been sparing of her minera- 
logical favors. Iron ore is found in 
some places, but neither so rich or 
abundant as to cause it to be worked. 
Marble, such as the shores of the Po- 
tomac abound with, is scattered in 
.shallow strata, but is also unworthy of 
attention. Lime stone is obtained in 
the greatest abundance, and is Avell 
adapted, as a manure, to the soil. 
The Oatland Mills consist of a set of 
merchant stones, capable of grinding 
40 barrels of flour per day, — a pair 
of country stones, and another for 
plaister, — with an oil mill and 2 wool 
carding machines, all under different 
roofs, but in buildings so closely con- 
nected as to combine the convenience 
of a single one, — there is also a saw 
mill adjacent; all of which are worked 
by Goose creek, a bold stream empty- 
ing into the Potomac river, 12 ms. 
below. Across this creek, a few rods 
from the mills, is an excellent bridge 
of 120 feet span, lately erected at the 
cost of the countj'. Through the in- 
defatigable zeal of the Honorable C. 
F. Mercer, a topographical survey of 
Goose creek has recently been made, 
with a view of rendering it navigable 
by a canal, intersectingthe Chesapeake 
and Ohio Canal; and an estimate of 
the probable cost, also made, which 
will not exceed $30,000, — a part of 
this sum has been subscribed by per- 
sons in the immediate neighborhood, 
and a hope is entertained, that the re- 
sidue will be taken by the District of 
Columbia, to secure the vast amount 
of produce which must otherwise find 
a market at Baltimore by way of the 
Rail road. 

Philmont, p. V. 4 1 ms. from W. 
and 163 from R., situated on the 
Snickcrsvillc turnpike mad, 12 m.s. 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— LOUDOUN. 



215 



S. of Lccsburg, the Count >/ Scat, 10 
ms. from Snicker's ferry, 42 ms. from 
Alexandria. It contains 6 dwelling 
houses, 1 common school, 1 mercan- 
tile store, and 2 saddlers. The coun- 
try around is fertile and wealthy, set- 
tled for the most part by Quakers. 
Wheat is the principal article pro- 
duced. 

Purcell's Store, P. O. 41 ms. 
N. W. of W., and 163 ms. from R, 

RosEviLLE, 38 ms. from W. and 
146 ms. from R. 

Snickersville, p. V. in the wes- 
tern part of the county, 49 ms. W. of 
W., and 165 from R. This is a 
thriving and healthy village, advan- 
tageously situated at the south eastern 
base of the Blue Ridge mountain, in 
the midst of a densely populated and 
business-like neighborhood. It con- 
tains 16 dwelling houses, 1 house of 
public worship, free for all denomina- 
tions, 1 common school, 1 Masonic 
hall, 2 taverns, 2 mercantile stores, 2 
boot and shoe factories, 1 tailor, I 
wagon maker, 3 blacksmiths, and 1 
copper and tin plate worker. This 
section of the county is remarkable 
for the fertility and productiveness of 
its soil. A good turnpike from Win- 
chester to Alexandria, passes through 
it, and intersects at the former place 



Lcesbuig and Warrcnton, not more 
than 200 yards from the Fauquier 
line, and 3 ins. from the Blue Ridge. 
It contains 64 dwelling houses, 3 mer- 
cantile stores, 2 taverns and 1 hotel, 
I manufacturing flour mill, 3 houses 
of public worship, 1 Baptist, 1 Me- 
thodist, and 1 free for all denomina- 
tions, and another is now being erect- 
ed by the Episcopalians, — I Acade- 
my, in which the languages are 
taught, aud 1 common school. The 
mechanics are, a tanner, hatter, 3 
boot and shoe manufacturers, 2 mill 
Wrights, 1 saddler, 2 house joiners, 1 
tin plate worker, 1 bricklayer, 2 stone 
mason.?, and 2 plasterers. Upper- 
ville is surrounded by a very popu- 
lous and fertile country, remarkably 
well watered, and the land adapted to 
the growth of corn and wheat, and to 
grazing, which last is extensively 
carried on. This place is distant from 
Alexandria, 46 ms., and 54 from W., 
and its produce is principally carried to 
the former. Should the contemplated 
improvement of the navigation of 
Goose creek go into operation, it Avill 
afford an easier mode of transporta- 
tion, and add greatly to the wealth, 
and industry of this neighborhood, 
giving the former a choice of markets, 
besides les.senincf by more than one 



with one from Washington to Win- half, the expense of transportation. 
Chester, which passes through Lccs- 
burg. An exi'.ellent line of stages. 
which extends from Washington to 
Cumberland, in Indiana, passes thro' 
this village, Winchester and Lcesbvrg: 
Six mails a week are received at the 



Population 300 persons: of whom 1 
is an attorney, and 2 are regular phy- 
sicians. 

Union, P. V. in the western angle 
of the county, 51 ms. N. W. of W., 
and 173 ms. from R. It contains 25 



P. O. Population 98 persons; of I dwelling houses, 3 houses of public 
whom I is an attorney, and 2 are i worship, I of which belongs to the 
practising physicians. ! Methodist denomination, and the other 

Uppehvii/le,* p. V. in the ex- 2 are free for all; 1 common school, 2 
treme south western end of Loudoun,; mercantile stores, 1 tavern, a carding 
51 ms. W. of W., and 135 ms. from [machine Avorked by horse power, 
R., situated on the Ashby's Gap turn-jand to Avhich there is also attached a 
pike road, between Winchester and 'pair of burr stones. There are 1 
Alexandria, distant 23 ms. both from temperance society and various me- 

'chanical pursuits. The situation is 

♦ This post village has by some accident j^g^ltj^ j^ ^ thickly settled neigh- 
got transposed — it ought to have been in ^ i. . j , r- i-„-.'. t ...i °„j 

Fauquier Co. 



bourhood, 16 mt-. from Lcrshvrg,and 



216 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— LOUISA. 



equi-distantfrom Middleburg, Upper- 
ville and Snickersville. Population 
135 persons; of whom 1 is an attor- 
ney, and 3 are regular physicians. 

Waterford, P. V. in the northern 
part of the county, 37 ms. N. W. of 
W. C, and 1 59 ms. from R. Wa- 
terford is a fine flourishing little vil- 
lage, situated 6 ms. N. W. of Lccs- 
biirg, the County Scat, on the Kit- 
toctan creek. The land is equal to 
any in the state of Virginia, admira- 
bly adapted to clover and plaister, and 
is excellent wheat and corn land, 
which two articles are the staple pro- 
ductions of the county. Waterford 
contains 70 dwelling houses, 2 houses 



of public worship, 1 free for all de- 
nominations, the other a Friends' 
meeting house, G mercantile stores, 2 
free schools, 4 taverns, 1 manufactur- 
ing flour mill, and 1 saw, grist and 
plaister mill, and (in the vicinity) 2 
small cotton manufactories. The me- 
chanics are 1 tanner, 2 house joiners, 
2 cabinet makers, 1 chair maker and 
painter, 1 boot and shoe manufactur- 
ers, 2 hatters, 1 tailor, <5cc. Popula- 
tion about 400 persons : of whom 3 
are regular physicians. 

Wood Grove, P. O. in the north- 
ern part of the county, 44 ms. N. W, 
of W., and 166 ms. from R. 



LOUISA. 

Louisa was created by the Legislature in 1742, and was taken from the 
upper portion of Hanover county. It is bounded N. by Orange and Spott- 
sylvania — N. E. by Spottsylvauia, — E. by Hanover, — S. by Goochland 
and Fluvanna, and W. by Albemarle. Situated between 37° 45' and 38^ 
6' N. lat., and between 0° 42' and 1° 17' W. long, from Washington. 
This county is near the centre of Virginia and near the centre of the re- 
gion between tidewater and the Blue Ridge. Its mean length is from the 
line of Albemarle to that of Hanover, 30 miles: its mean breadth, from 
the upper part of Goochland to that of Spottsylvauia, 18 miles: area 550 
sq. miles. 

Water Courses. — The South Anna, an arm of the Pamunky, runs forty 
miles through this county in a S. E. direction. On the Orange and Spott- 
sylvauia line, the North A)i7ia runs an equal distance, bounding Louisa on 
the N. and N. E. Little river, and Nciofouncl river, rise in Louisa, and 
having entered Hanover, run, the former into the North-Anna, the latter 
into the South-Anna. Hopes arc entertained of rendering all these navi- 
gable to some extent : the South-Anna to the upper part of the county, 
within 10 miles of its source; and the North-Anna nearly as high. There 
are 35 rivulets, (here called creeks:) of which 24 arc tributary to the North- 
Anna, 10 to the South- Anna, and one to Little river. 

Soil, products, fare of the country, minerals, 6fc. — The soil was origi- 
nally of at least middling fertility: but by CA'ery species of mismanagement 
(amid which over-cropping, frequent grazing, had ploughing, scanty ma- 
nuring, and the culture of tobacco, stand conspicuous,) it has become 
pitiably barren. On high land six bushels of wheat, or ten of Indian corn, 
are the average product of an acre. Wheat yields about "i^ or 4 bushels to 
one of seed. 

The chief agricultural products are wheat, maize (or Indian corn) and 
tobacco: the last is diminishing in quantity cvcrjr year; owing more to the 
exhaustion of the lands suitable to its growth, than to a persuasion of its 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— LOUISA. 217 

impoverishing tondeucies. The forest land is covered with oak of several 
kinds, hickory, poplar, gum, maple, dogwood, and especially with yellow 
pine. The most usual undergrowth is chinquepin, and sometimes whortle- 
berry. When the soil is exhausted by cultivation, and suffered to lie idle, 
it shoots up thickets of yellow pine; which in 15 or 20 years form a cover, 
that affords a means of restoring the soil. 

There are no mountains. The ground is hilly, or rolling; a circum- 
stance combining with injudicious ploughing, and whh the light, sandy 
texture of the soil, to accelerate its impoverishment. Every hard rain 
sweeps off much uf the richest earth. Towards the upper part of the 
county is a singular tract of country, of about 8 or 10,000 acres, called 
"Green Spring land," (from the mineral spring of that name situated in it.) 
This tract lies in an irregular circle, of from four to six miles diameter : 
and far exceeds all other high land in the county, both in native fertility, 
and in susceptibility o( improvement. Its soil is a dark grey, containing 
very little sand, or stone of any kind; and resting, at a depth of 12 or 15 
inches, upon a stratum of compact, firm, red clay, scarcely penetrable by 
water. Thus the "Green-Spring land" avoids the two great characteristic 
defects of Louisa land — too large an intermixture of sand, and a too gritty 
and porous foundation. It is particularly suited to wheat; yielding 8 or 10 
bushels to one of seed, without manure: and capable of being made to yield 
15, 20, or 30 to one. This oasis is not heavily timbered: its oak and 
hickory are rather stinted: it has Ihtle or no pine; and a good deal of 
black-jack — elsewhere a symptom of sterility. 

The "Green-Spring" water is impregnated chiefly or wholly with sul- 
phur and magnesia, forming a mild s^dphate of magnesia (Epsom salts.) 
It has been ascertained to have no iron. This water was once in high 
vogue, and much resorted to by invalids and people of fashion. But the 
accommodations for company have now, for 25 or 30 years, been discon- 
tinued ; and visitors are compelled to throw themselves upon the hospi- 
tality of the neighborhood. The water is deemed good for dyspepsia, af- 
fections of the liver and lungs, and several other complaints. 

This spring is situated in the upper part of the county 60 miles from 
Richmond, 18 from Louisa C. H., and 25 from Charlottesville. Since the 
death of the former proprietor (Col. Morris) the place has gone to decay. 
There were several spacious buildings for the reception of visitors, but 
some have been consumed by fire, some have fallen down, and only a few 
houses in a state of rapid decay remain. The issue of the spring is small, 
but the stream runs constantly and with force. The water is clear and 
transparent, but quite unpleasant to the taste. 

Gold has, within two years past, been found abundantly in Louisa. 
Through the heart of the" count}-, runs that beU of gold land which per- 
vades Virginia, Carolina, and Georgia: in a direction nearly from N. E. 
to S. W. (viz. S. 49° 30' W.) Its breadth here is from 1 to 3 miles. No 
vein has yet been profitably worked. The richest dcpositcs have been 
found upon Contranj creek, in the northern part of the county. The ordi- 
nary depth at which these are found, is from, one to four feet; and nons 
deeper than 12 feet. In one of them (called "Tinder's mine") at the depth 
of 10 or 12 feet, the value of about 820,000 has been found; and near 
$10,000 of this were obtained within six days, ni November, 1833, by 
about 25 hand.s. There are nine deposites on or near the creek just_ men- 
tioned, which have been more nr Irss worked, and altogether have yielded 
28 



218 Eastern Virginia— louisa. 

near $40,000. Contiguous to one of them, (Walton's) a promising vein 
of rich ore has been opened, by a perpendicular shaft of 50 feet, and tlien a 
horizontal tunnel of 10 or 12 feet. This is the only instance in Louisa of 
a vein wrought upon scientific principles. 

Towards the S. W. part of the county, also, promising indications both 
of deposites and veins have been found : but none of them have been ex- 
tensively wrought. The usual indicia of vein-gold are cellated quartz, 
with talcose slate, sulphuret (or pyrites) of iron, &c. The deposites 
(which are thought to be broken down or j>artialli/ decomposed veins) are 
indicated commonly by the same signs ; and are usually in quartzose 
strata (or layers,) G, 10, or 12 inches thick; resting upon beds of slate. 
The apparatus for obtaining doposite gold is very simple and cheap: con-- 
sisting (besides the digging tools) of a small stream of water; a sort ot 
trough called a rocker, in which the earth is shaken in water, to separate 
it from the gold; a few tin-pans, and some quicksilver, to collect the fine 
particles of gold by its attraction. At the mines on Contrary, one hand 
ordinarily obtains from one to i\vc dwt. per day. One dwt. to the hand is 
considered profitable. There wer? from 60 to 70 hands employed in the 
county, on an average, during the year 1833, in searching for gold. Seve- 
ral mining companies having now been chartered by the Legislature, much 
more capital and labor will doubtless soon be employed. 

Iron ore is plentiful through the gold region. It was partially wrought 
before the Revolution, to supply a furnace in Spottsylvania : and might be 
worked to advantage now, were not wood scarce in the vicinity. Graphite, 
or carburet of iron, (improperly called black lead,) has been found in 
considerable quantities on the eastern branch of Contrary and on Cub creek; 
the former 2 or 3 miles and the latter 6 or 7 miles below the gold region. 

A range of granite from 5 to 8 miles wide, extends nearly across the 
county in much the same direction as the gold range, and in part coincid- 
ing with it; though generally the granite lies higher up the country, taper- 
ing off in the form of an ellipse, 6 or 8 miles to the S. W. of the Court 
House. Good millstones have been made of this rock. It is intermixed 
with the coarser and less pure granite, called gneiss. The rest of the 
county, without the granite region, is of the secondary formation ; chiefly 
slate, with quartz, mica, and some gneiss. Yet granite occasionally ap- 
pears miles distant from the range just described. On the eastearn or rather 
south-eastern edge of the granite formation, about 5 miles N. E. of Louisa 
C, H., is a quarry of stone 7iovactditt or Virginia oil-stone, highly valued 
for whet-stones. This quarry is a seain, or vein, 50 or 60 feet long and of 
unknown depth, in the centre of a peculiar formation, which extends for 
three-quarters of a mile in length, by a half-a-mile in breadth, partly within 
and partly without the granite range. The Virginia oilstone is exquisite- 
ly fine, and free from grit, yet sufficiently soft.* It is composed o[ feldtz- 
par, chrystallized silc.r, and sometimes hornblend, (three of the four ele- 
ments of granhe ) Another whetstone quarry is ten miles S. of Louisa 
C H., near what is called the Rack-punch, or Arrack-punch spring: but 
this is coarse compared with the former, being a sort of sandstone. 

Population iu 1830 , 16,151, or 29 to the ^square mile. The following 

* Tins valuable whetstone is now brou?ht into market in larpe quantities bv The 
propneters, y«.?/-,.. Colnwn, liaymond cf- Keller, Richmond. It has spread extensive- 
ly over the UnUcd States, and been sent to Europe. 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— LOUISA. 219 

table shews the population, and its three comparative classes, at tlie lliree last 
enumerations. 



Years. 


Whites. 


Sla ves. 


Free CoFd people. 


Total. 


1810 


5,253 


0,430 


157 


11,840 


1820 


5,967 


7,560 


219 


13,746 


1830 


G,4G8 


9,382 


301 


16,151 



The slaves have increased more rapidly than whites; the free colored 
people more rapidly than either. The following table shews at what rate 
per cent the whole population and each of its three classes, have increased, 
both during the whole 20 years preceding the last census, and during each 
half of that period: 



In-, of \mtcs. 


//(. of slaves. 


III. Fr. CoVd. 


In 


. vhoJe -pop 


Periods. perceiu. 


per cent. 


per cent. 




per cent. 


From 1810 to 1820 13^ 


17^ 


39 




16 


From 1820 to 1830 8^ 


24 


37 




17i 


From 1810 to 1830 23 


4G 


91 




36^ 



The county contains about 1400 dwelling houses, besides those occupied 
by slaves. None of them can pretend to elegance or grandeur ; for the 
greater number is of one story, and wooden, either framed or made with 
logs. Scarcely 20 are made of brick: and even painting is rare. 

Trades, occupations, <Sfc. — Louisa contains 15 regular practising phy- 
sicians, 4 lawyers, 12 ministers of the gospel (all of whom, however, have 
other pursuits also;) 4 saddler's shops, 14 tanneries, 3 carriage maker's 
shops, 5 tailors' shops, 1 silversmith, about 30 grist mills, at several of 
which good wheat-flour is made, and occasionally for the Richmond mar- 
ket. There is no cotton or woollen manufactory ; but there are several 
machines for picking cotton and carding wool. The great mass of the 
population is agricultural. There are about 20 stores where merchandize 
is sold. 

Religion awl morals. — The county contains about 2960 professing 
christians, viz. 1450 Baptists, 1340 Methodists, 140 Reformed Baptists, 
20 Presbyterians, and 10 Episcopalians. Houses of Avorship, 25, besides 
two stations, or permanent camps, for camp-meetings. These rural church- 
es are of the plainest structure, usually framed of scantling, merely shin- 
gled and weatherboarded, without ceiling or plastering on the inside; and 
costing from 150 to 450 dollars. 

The people in general are of moral and indu.strious habits. They have 
been noted for their simplicity in dress and equipage; what is called Vir- 
ginia-clothhamg moxQ. l^requently worn by them, than in most of the neigh- 
boring counties. There are 13 temperance societies in the county, com- 
prising altogether about 1200 members. There is a female colonization 
society, and several Bible, Tract, Missionary, and Sunday school societies. 

Schools, state of learning, t^c — There is but one permanent classical 
school in Louisa. There are several for teaching the plainer branches of 
knowledge; and three female boarding schools. The county has usually 
furnished about 5 students annually to the University of Virginia. 

Pavper system. — Until 1832 the poor were maintained at their own 
houses, or in the houses of their friends, by a spc^-ific sum yearly allotted 



220 EASTERN VIRGINIA— LOUISA. 

to each by the overseers of the poor. This sum was usually so squander- 
ed or misapplied, as to produce not more than half the due amount of com- 
fort and relief to the pauper: while at the same time many who were not 
proper objects of charity, palmed themselves as such upon the overseers. 
From both these causes, the poor tax arose to double its necessary or pro- 
per amount. In 1818 it was 35 cents on each tithable person; in 1828, 
54 cents: in 1829, 55 cents; and in 1831, 62 cents. In 14 years its whole 
amount had risen from $1615 to $3502; and this by such steady and regu- 
lar strides as shewed a likelihood of continued advances. Alarmed at so 
rapid an increase of the burthen, the county court resolved, as a means of 
checking it, to establish a Poor House. In 1831, about 200 acres of land 
Avere purchased, with a neat two-story brick house and some useful out- 
houses; to which several others were added at the county charge. The 
whole, cost less than i^2000. The poor, who chose to receive parish aid, 
were brought to the institution in January, 1832: it being determined that 
relief should be afforded to none out o/the Poor House. A superintendent, 
discreet, trusty, and kind, is employed for $200 per annum, and a small 
supply of meat and corn to his family. The inmates at the time this arti- 
cle was v\^ritten were 29. They are well fed, clothed, and lodged; and more 
comfortable in all respects than they could be under the former system. 
The tax for their support on each tythable person in 1832, was reduced to 
35 cents, and in 1833, to 13 ce7its. Formerly the number of paupers 
ranged from 50 to 90; costing the public, on an average, about $38 or 
$40 each. The present average is less than $26 each. Such as are able, 
labor upon the farm attached to the establishment ; and the females, who 
cannot work without doors, have cotton and wool furnished them to card 
and spin. 

Histori/, civil ayid political condition. — Louisa was laid of!" as a county 
(taken from the upper part of Hanover,) by an act of the General Assem- 
bly in May, 1742, and named after a princess of the royal family of Great 
Britain. In 1761 a portion was cut o^ from its upper end and added to 
Albemarle; leaving the boundaries of Louisa as they now stand. This 
county has been the scene of no important historical incident. Its citizens 
bore their full share in the Indian and French war of 1755, and in the war 
of the Revolution. Tarlton, with his cavalry, passed up by the Court 
House in 1781 on his expedition to Albemarle: and when La Fayette had 
united with Wayne at the Racoon Ford on the Rapidan, and turned to pur- 
sue the British general from whom he had been retreating, he made a 
forced and rapid march across this county, from Brock's Bridge on the 
North- Anna to the Fluvanna line, in order to intercept the enemy. The 
road which he opened for this purpose is still known as "the Marquis's 
road;" passing southwesterly 3 or 4 miles above the Green Spring. In 
the same year, two tories who had attached themselves as marauders to the 
British army, were summarily hung by one Holland and another man, 
near the Goochland boundary, 21 miles S. from Louisa C. H., with the 
countenance and before the eyes, of 20 or 30 ot the neighboring people. 
Louisa has produced no very distinguished men. Yet she first sent 
Patrick Henry as a delegate to the House of Burgesses in 1765, soon after 
his removal from Hanover: and she again elected him in 1776 and '7, 
till he returned to hi.s native county. 

Since the extension of the right of suffrage in 1830, there are about 900 
persons qualilicd to vote: but not even 800 have ever actually voted; and 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— LuUlSA. 



221 



the usual number polled is 5 or 600. There arc two places of voting, or 
"election precincts," besides the Court-House. 

Louisa belongs to the eleventh judicial circuit and sixth district. Taxes 
paid in 1832-3 $3839 20,— in 1833-4— on land, $2,110 92— 4764 slaves, 
$1191 00— 303G horses, $122 lG—7 studs, $85 00 — 76 coaches, $175 35 
—44 carryalls, 44 00—91 gigs, $51 95. Total, $3840 38. Expended 
in educating poor children in 1832, $505 13— in 1833, 442 96. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES. &c. 



RoswKLLviLi.E, P. O. ou tlic road 
leading from Richmond to Charlottes- 
ville, 64 ms. from the former, and 21 
from the latter. It is 12 miles above 
Louisa C. H. and 5 from the Green 
Springs. 

Bradi.eysburgii, P.O. 64 ms. N. 
W. by W. of R. and 109 from W. 
situated in the northern part of the 
county. 

CucKoovir.LE, P. V. 112 miles 
from W. and 46 from R., situated 
ou the road which leads from Rich- 
mond to Louisa C. H., 8 ms. from 
the latter. It contains a tavern, mer- 
cantile store, boot and shoe foctory, 
blacksmith shop, and 1 house of pub- 
lic worship, which belongs to the 
reformed Baptists, or Campbellites. 

Dabnev's Mills, P. O. in the E. 
part of the county, 84 ms. S. W. of 
W. and 52 N. of R. — situated ou the 
North- Anna river, which divides 
Loui.sa from Spottsylvania county. — 
There are located here a tavern, a 
tanner and currier, tailor, blacksmith, 
and a saw mill. 

Gardner's Cross Roads, P. O. 
40 ms. N. W. of R. and 96 S. W. 
of W. 

.Tacksox, p. O. 37 ms. N. W. of 
R. and 98 from VV. 

Locust Creek, P. O. formerly 
Chinquepln Groce, 101 ms. S. W. of 
AV. and 33 from R. 

LOUISA C. H. P. V. 110 ms. S. 
of W. and 54 N. W. of R. — situated 
precisely in lat. 38^ N. and long. 1° 
W. of W. C. It contains besides the 
Court-house, jail, and a large house 
of worship, 4 stores, a silversmith, 
blacksmith, 2 carriage makers, 2 tai- 



lors, a shoe maker, cabinet maker, 
saddler, 2 taverns, a milliner, 2 law- 
yer's offices, and a physician's. It is 
30 miles from Charlottesville. 

County Courts are held on the 2^ 
Mo7idai/ in every month. Quarterli/ 
in March, June, August and Novevi- 
bcr. 

JiTDGE Field holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chancery 
on the 10//i of April and September. 
The dockets of both courts are short. 
The amount of litigation being small 
by reason of the economy and inde- 
pendence of the people. The clear 
amount of the clerks' fees in both 
courts, after deducting insolvencies 
and the expenses of collections, is less 
than $1,200 per annum. The sher- 
ifalty is farmed for $350 per annum. 

Mechanicksville, p. O. situated 
within half a mile of South-Anna 
river, immediately on the road lead- 
ing from Richmond to Charlottes- 
ville, 65 ms. from the former, and 20 
from the latter — 12 ms. above Louisa 
C. H. and 5 from the Green Springs. 
This village contains several dwel- 
ling houses, 1 house of public wor- 
ship, free for all denominations, 1 
mercantile store, 1 tavern, 1 common 
school, and mechanics of various des- 
criptions. This place was founded 
in 1825, and takes its name from the 
number of mechanics located here. 
Wagons, carts, &c. are manufactured 
to great perfection, and in great num- 
bers. Tlie surrounding country is 
wealthy, and considered one of the 
best wheat districts below the moun- 
tains. The land is level and fertile. 
Population 40. 



822 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— LOUISA. 



Nkwark, p. O. in the eastern part 
of the count}', GO ms. N. W. of R. 
and 1 13 from W. C. — situated on the 
road leading from Richmond to Char- 
lottesville — 25 ms. from the latter. 

PoTTiEsviLLE, P. O. 89 ms. from 
W. and 47 from R. 

Thompson's >A Roads, P. O. 45 
miles N. W. of R. and 101 from W. 
situated on the stage road leading 
from Fredericksburg to Cartersville, 
50 miles S. of the former, and 20 N. 
of the latter, 40 miles E. of Char- 
lottesville, 7 from Yanceyville, and 
15 from Louisa C. H. — There are 2 
dwelling houses, 2 cabinet maker's 
shops, 1 boot and shoe factory, and 1 
Baptist house of worship, called South 
Anna meeting house, located at thi.s 



place. It is situated on the south side 
of South Anna river, within the dis- 
tance of half a mile from its banks. 

Poixdexter's Store, P. O. 68 
miles N. W. of R. and 135 of W., 
situated within half a mile from South 
Anna river, 10 miles from Ijouisa C. 
H. and 25 from Charlottesville. This 
place contains a general store, car- 
riage maker, blacksmith shop, and 
one Baptist house of public worship. 

Yanceyville, a small village on 
the South Anna river, 44 miles from 
R., 8 from Louisa C. H. and 40 from 
Charlottesville. This village contains 
a tavern, general store, blacksmith 
shop, boot and shoe factor^', manufac- 
turing flour mill, and a meeting house, 
free for all denominations. 



LUNENBURG. 



Lunenburg was created by act of the Legislature in 174G, and formed 
from a part of Brunswick count)\ It is bounded N. by Prince Edward, — 
N. E. by Nottoway river, which separates it from Nottoway county, — E. by 
Brunswick, — S. by Meherrin river, which separates it from Mecklenburg, 
and W. by Charlotte. — Its length is 25 miles, mean breath IG, and area 400 
square miles; and it extends in lat. from 37° 46' to 37° 04', and in long. 
1° 8' to 1° 22' W. of W. C. A ridge runs through the county, from E. to 
W. N. W., from which the waters flow N. E. and S. E. into the Nottoway 
and Meherrin. The general slope of the county is S. E. by E. Popula- 
tion in 1820, 10,667--in 1830, 11,957. Lunenburg belongs to the ninth 
judicial circuit, and fifth district. Tax paid in 1833, $2392 18 — in 1834, 
on land, $1056 91—3813 slaves, $953 25—2236 horses, $134 16—7 
studs, $100 00—46 coaches, $128 00—26 carryalls, $26 00—88 gigs, 
$53 85 — Total, $2452 17. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, 
$282 41— in 1833, $212 20. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Brydie's Store, P. O. in the nor- 
thern part of the county, 82 ms. S. 
W. of R. and 204 from VV. 

Columbian Grove, P. O. 98 ms. 
S. W. of R. and 220 from W., .situ- 
ated on Saflbld's road, 4 ms. N. of 
Saffbld's bridge across Meherrin river, 
10 ms. E. of Lewi.'! f 0/1, the county 
seat, and 58 W. S. W. of Petersburg. 
The lands in the neighborhood arc 



tolerably fertile, producing corn,Avheat, 
cotton and tobacco, the latter article is 
the staple commodity, and grows to 
great perfection on the low lands, 
creek bottoms, and margins of streams. 

Double Bridge, P. O. 87 miles 
S. W. of R. and 206 from W. 

Haleysburgh, p. O. 210 miles 
from W. and 95 from R. 

LEWJSTON, P. V. usually called 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— LUNENBURG. 



223 



Lunenburg C It., 01 ms. S. W. ofj 
Richmond, ami 213 from W. C. — in 
lat. 36° 50' N. and in long. 1° 16' 
W. of W. C. It is situated about the 
centre ot the county, in an elevated 
and healthy part of it, on the stage 
road leading from Petersburg, to Wil- 
liamsburg, N. C. and the stage passes 
through on every day except Sunday. 
It contains 20 dwelling houses, besides 
a handsome court house of brick, 
with a portico, and four large columns 
in front, jail and clerk's oflice, 2 mer- 
cantile stores, and 2 taverns. The 
principal mechanics are wheelwrights, 
saddle and harness makers and black- 
smiths. This town was lad ofi'iu the 
year 1817, by act of assembly of that 
year. There was at that lime but one 
family living here. The distance 
from Petersburg is 65 miles, from 
Hampden Sydney College 28, and 
from Randolph Macon College 30 



miles. Population 75 persons; of 
whom two are attorneys, and one a 
practising physician. 

County Courts are held on the 2(1 
Monday in every month; — Quarter- 
ly in March, June, Avgust and No- 
vember. 

Judge Leigh holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the Alh of May and October. 

Laurel Hill, P' O. 94 ms. S. W. 
of R. and 216 from W. 

McFar land's, p. O. 79 ms. from 
R. and 201 from W. 

Meiiekrin Guove, p. O. 92 ms. 
S. W. of R. and 194 from W. 

Oak Grove, P. O. 88 ms. from 
R. and 210 from W. 

Pleasant Grove, P. O. 89 ms. 
S. W. of R. and 204 from W. 

Wattsboro', p. O. in the Avestern 
part of the county, 97 ms. S. W. of 
R. and 219 from W. 



3IADISON. 

The county of IVladison was created by the Legislature in the year 
1792, and was taken entirely from the county of Culpcper. It is bounded 
on the north by the counties of Rappahannock and Culpeper, on the south 
by the county of Orange, on the west by the counties of Rockingham and 
Page, (the top of the Blue Ridge being the dividing line,) and on the east 
by a part of Culpeper and Orange. Its length is 2'o\ miles, and its breadth 
12^ ; and it contains an area of about 290 miles square, extending in lat. from 
38^ 14' to 38° 38' N. and in long, from 1° 09' to 1° 30' W. of AV. C. In 
the western part of the county there are several large mountains extending 
from the Blue Ridge into the county in an easterly direction from 
five to ten miles; the principal of these are, the Ragged mountain, the 
Double Top mountain, the Forked mountain, and the BlufT mountain; 
they are more elevated than the Blue Ridge. From these large 
and lofcy mountains, there are a number of small mountains projecting from 
them into the county, some of which, are very fertile, and produce in great 
abundance, wheat, rye, oats, corn, hemp, and tobacco: wheat may be con- 
sidered the staple of the county. In the mountain region small quantities 
of tobacco are made, and when well managed, it is of superior quality, and 
of fine texture and flavor. Between these mountains there are fine valleys 
of rich bottom land. Fruit of almost every description common to the cli- 
mate, particularly apples, grow to great perfection and in great abundance, 
in the mountains of Madison. 

Hughes' river rise.'^ in the Blue Ridge, in the north part of the count}', 
and constitutes apart of the dividing line between Madison and Rappahan- 
nock. The Robin.son river risc-^ in like manner in the Blue Ridce, and 



224 EASTERN VIRGINIA— MADISON. 

winds its course between the Ragged and Double Top mountains; it affords 
a quantity of fine low grounds. The high lands properly managed are ve- 
ry productive in small grain. This part of the county is thickly inhabited 
by industrious, independent farmers. The Rapid Ann (formerly called the 
Staunton river) rises in the Blue Ridge, between the Double Top mountain 
and the Bluff mountain, it winds its course in a southeastern direction and 
passes through a beautiful rich valley, for 8 or 10 miles, where the small 
mountains break off abruptly. The pine lands commence about that point 
and extend with a mixture of hickory, oak, chesnut, locust, poplar, &c. to 
the lower end of the county, a distance of between 15 and 20 miles. The 
Robinson and Rapid Ann rivers form a junction immediately at the lovyer 
end of the county. The Rapid Ann, from 10 to 1.5 miles above the union 
with the Robinson, receives several tributary streams, to wit: the Conway 
or Middle river, the South river and the Blue Run. At the lower end of 
the county, in what is called the Robinson fork, Gryan's run passes through 
a rich tract of country and empties into the Robinson river. The German 
ridge, which is a spur of the Double Top mountain, lies east of the Rapid 
Ann river a short distance, and runs south nearly parallel with the river, 
until it breaks off at the Rapid Ann meeting house. On the east of this 
little mountain there are several bold, fine springs, which constitute the head 
waters of the white oak run, which empties into the Robinson river, about 
two miles north of Madison C. H. and near the German Lutheran church. 
This small stream which extends 8 or 10 miles from its source to its junc- 
tion with the Robinson river, affords a large body of beautiful rich bottom 
land, it contains a dense and wealthy population. This river passes within 
half a mile on the west of Madison C. H. In the county there are seve- 
ral other small streams, such as Dark run. Cedar run, between Madison 
and Culpeper, the Big run and Whetstone run, which empties into the Rapid 
Ann, near \^here the small mountains break off' In the county of Madi- 
son there is but one incorporated town, called "The Town of Madison," it 
contains the county seat of Justice. It is a thriving little village, located 
very near the centre of the county, on a high, elevated ridge, and commands 
a beautiful and picturesque view of the Blue Ridge and ail of the Ihtle 
mountains extending into the county. The Thoroughfare mountain is a 
small mountain, about 8 miles N. E. of Madison C. H. and the Lost moun- 
tain about 5 miles S. E. of the C. H. They are entirely detached from the 
other mountains, and are nearly 20 miles east of the Blue Ridge. The 
public buildings have been recently erected of brick. The C. H. is built 
in the Corinthian order, and the workmanship executed in superior style. 
There are a number of private schools in the county of Madison, but no 
public seminary of learning. About the mountains there are many indica- 
tions of iron ore, particularly about ihe Forked mountain. Lead has been found 
on some parts of the German ridge, and it is said recently that some signs 
of gold have been seen in the lower end of the county, Ijut no particular 
search or examination has been made. There are two springs in the Ger- 
man ridge and near it, which are strongly impregnated with sulphur, but 
the water has never been analyzed and no attention seems now to be paid to 
it. This county is generally well watered, it has a pure climate, portions 
of it very rich soil, susceptible of a high state of improvement by clover 
and plaster, and for beauty and sublimity of scenery, surpassed by kw spots 
in Virginia. It contains 12 manufacturing flour mills, 20 gri&t mills, from 
10 to 15 saw mills, a number ol' tanneries, wheelwrights, carpenters, black- 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— MADISON. 



225 



smiths, saddlers, carding machines, and 1 5 general stores and groceries. 
There are in this county 5 resident physicians and 2 attorneys, 6 ministers 
of the gospel, and 15 churches or meeting houses, and a numher of itine- 
rant preachers, principally of the Methodist persuasion. The different reli- 
gious sects in this county are the Baptists, Episcopalians, Presbyterians, Lu- 
therans and Methodists — the Baptists being the most numerous. Population in 
1820, 8,490— in 1830,9,236. It belongs to the eleventh judicial circuit, 
and sixth district. Ta.xes paid in 1833, $2179 70 — in 1834, on lots, $31> 
46— on land, $1350 54— 2247 slaves, $561 75—1171 horses, $118 26— 
7 studs, $76 00—23 coaches, $47 25—3 carryalls, $3 00—22 gigs, $15 
25 — Total, $2211 51. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, 
6248 10— in 1833, $316 82. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Criglersville, p. O. 10 ms. N. 
of the court house. 

Graves, P. O. situated in the Aves- 
tern part of Madison, 108 miles from 
R. and 1 1 S. W. of W. 

James Citv, P, O. 87 ms. from 
W. and 105 from R. — situated on 
Crooked run, on the north side of 
Thoroughfare mountain, nine miles 
distant both from Madison and 
Culpeper court houses, on the line 
which divides the two counties of Cul- 
peper and Madison. It contains one 
large, well kept tavern, called Madi- 
son Inn, one mercantile store, one 
boot and shoe factory, a tailor, black- 
smith shop, and a merchant mill. — 
There is a Baptist house of worship 
in the vicinity. Population 50. 

MADISON, P. V. and scat of jus- 
tice, situated near the centre of the 
county, 110 miles N. N. W. of R. 
and 96 S. W. by W. of W. in lat. 
38° 22' N. and long. 1° 15' W. of 
W. C. This village, besides the or- 
dinary county buildings, contains 34 
dwelling houses, 6 mercantile stores, 
2 taverns, 2 houses of public worship, 
of which one belongs to the Episco- 
palians, and the other is free for all 
denominations, (of which the princi- 
pal part are Baptists, Methodists, E- 
piscopalians, Presbyterians, and Lu- 
therans,) and 2 well organized Sun- 
29 



day schools. There are in the vicinity 
5 manufacturing flour mills. The 
mechanics of the village are 2 tanners 
and curriers, 2 saddlers, 2 boot and 
shoe makers, 1 wheelwright, 3 black- 
smiths, 1 coppersmith and tin plate 
worker, 1 wagon maker, 1 house 
joiner, 1 cabinet and wheat fan maker, 
and 4 tailors. The town is heahhy, 
and improving. It has 2 resident at- 
torneys and 4 practising physicians; 
whole population 290. 

Coimty Courts are held on the 4 /A 
Thursday in every month ; — Quarter- 
ly in February, May, July and Oc- 
tober. , 

Judge Field holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the 12//iof il/^^ and October. 

Rapid Ann Meeting House, P. 
O. situated in the western part of the 
county, 102 miles from R. and 104 
S. W. of W. This little village con- 
tains 8 dwelling houses, besides shops, 
&.C., 3 houses of public worship, 1 
Baptist, 1 Episcopalian, and 1 free for 
all denominations, 1 common school, 
3 mercantile stores, 1 house of enter- 
tainment, 1 tanyard, 2 wagon makers, 
1 chair maker, 1 boot and shoe facto- 
ry, 1 blacksmith shop, &c. Popula- 
tion 73 persons; of whom one is a 
physician. 



226 EASTERN VIRGINIA— iMATHEWS. 

MATHKWS. 

Mathews was created by act of Assembly, m 1790, and formed from a 
pan of Gloucester county. This county is a peninsula, extending into the 
Chesapeake bay, united to the main by a narrow neck of land scarcely a 
mile wide, and its boundaries are almost entirely of water. It is bounded 
on the north by Piankalank river, which separates it from Middlesex, and 
by the Chesapeake; on the south by the Chesapeake and Mob- Jack bays; 
on the east by the Chesapeake; and on the west by North river and Moh- 
Jack bay and a narrow neck of land uniting it to Gloucester — extending in 
lat. from 37° 22' to 37° 30' N. and long, from 0° 33' to 0° 48' E.of W. 
C. This county is indented by numerous inlets from the bay, which cut 
and divide the land into a number of small necks, that are bounded on each 
side by a creek or river. The principal rivers are the Piankatank, East, 
and North rivers. The former is a bold stream, about a mile wide at its 
mouth, and extending itself 30 or 40 miles, into the interior, terminates in 
the Dragon swamp. East river is about the same width of the Piankatank 
at its mouth, which opens into Mob-Jack bay; it runs about 8 or 9 miles 
up, in the centre of the county, four mile.s from its mouth it sends off a 
branch," named Pudding creek, at the head of which is situated the court 
house. North river likewise enters into Mob-Jack bay; it does not differ 
much in size from the two rivers just described, and runs up into Glouces- 
ter, for the distance of 15 miles. These rivers arc all salt, of course, as 
they derive their Avaters from the bay, a little fresh Avater mingles with them 
at their heads, but does not materially affect their saltncss,Vxcept after very 
heavy and long continued rains. Besides these rivers, there are creeks 
almost too numerous to be named. Muddy creek is at the upper part of the 
county, and forms part of the line of separation from Gloucester: it is a ve- 
ry inconsiderable creek, and enters the Piankatank. Cob's creek is rather 
larger, it is about a mile long, and enters the same river 3 or 4 miles above 
its mouth. Queen's creek is much more considerable in size, being a fourth 
of a mile wide, and three miles in length; it enters the Piankalank at its 
mouth. About three miles below Glueen's creek, is the mouth of Slut's 
creek, which opens into Milford Ilaven, it is of the same size with Glueen's 
creek. Two miles below are Lilley's and Billup's creeks, they are small 
and near each other; they enter Milford Ilaven. A part of the bay which 
flows in between the main land and Gwj'n's island, and extends from the 
mouth of Piankatank to Billup's creek, is called Milford Haven, and is a 
secure harbor for vessels. At the lower extremity of the Haven is situated 
a small, uninhabited island, named Rigby's, between which and the main, 
is a passage called the Thoroughfare. A short distance below this is Gar- 
den creek, which is a small stream that enters into the Chesapeake. Off 
the mouth of this creek is a shoal, extending five miles out in the bay, nam- 
ed the Wolf Trap, and on which is stationed a light boat. Winter Harbor 
is a creek or inlet from the bay, which is narrow at its entrance, after run- 
ning a few hundred yards widens, and diverging extends itself into small 
branches, which run a mile or two in the land. Horn Harbor is another 
inlet just below the former, being much larger but not extending itself any 
farther in the land. Dicr's creek is an inconsiderable stream, just below 
Horn Harbor. The point of land lying below Uier's creek, is the lowest 
extremity of the county, named New Point Comfort; it is a sandy point 
Avhich juts out into the bay, and on which h erected a Light House. After 



EASTERN VTRrjINrA— MATHEWS. 227 

leaving New Point (.'onifort and asoonclinr^ on the south side of tlie county, 
about one mile above is Harper's creek, whicli is small. Pepper creek two 
miles above is more considerable. Two or three miles higher up, is tlie 
mouth of East river, between which and the mouth of North river is a 
point called White's. Entering tlie North river a short distance froni its 
mouth, is (todsey's creek, and 4 or 5 miles higher is Black Water creek, 
opening in the North river and running a mile or two into the interior. 

This county is only 20 miles long, and in its widest section not more than 
8, and area 127 sq. miles, varying from that width, down to a point, so that 
it will be seen from the sketch of the water courses, that the land is divided 
into many sections or nocks: — thus Chapel neck is a small body of land 
lying between North river and Black Water: — White's neck lies between 
North and East rivers, and consists of a considerable body of land which 
terminates at White's point. The land lying between Cob's and Queen's cr. is 
called Cow neck, and terminates in two j)oints denominated Iron and Bur- 
ton's points. Between Q,ueen's and Slut's creeks, is situated Crab neck, at 
the north corner of which neck is a place called Cricket hill. Lying be- 
tween Lilley's and Billup's creeks, is Lilley's neck. Between Winter and 
Horn Harbors, is a small point of land named Potatoe neck. I'he body of 
land which is situated between Horn Harbor and East river, extending from 
thence to the lowest e.vtremity of the county is known as Point Comfort. 

The mo.st remarkable feature in the topography of this county is its ex- 
treme levelness. The banks of the Piankatank river are somewhat elevated 
and from thence the land descends in an almost uninterrupted plain, until it 
terminates in the waters of the bay. It was evidently at some period co- 
vered by the sea, or bay, as the whole face of the country incontestibly 
proves. There are about 60,000 acres of land in this county, which is of 
a medium quality as regards feltility. It produces corn and oats, but is not 
so well adapted to wheat, from its extreme humidity; the country lays so 
remarkably level, that it is a very laborious and difficult operation to drain 
and lay dry the land. The soil is generally a sandy loam, with a substra- 
tuni of clay; there is little or none of silicious earth, nor does it contain any 
calcareous matter. Marl has been found in some parts of this county, and 
if sought, could no doubt be obtained in most places by digging to a suffi- , 
cient depth. In digging wells, coccle shells, oj-ster shells, and the shells of 
many testaceous animals, not known at the present day, are found 20 feet 
below the surface; together with wood, roots, weeds and a variety of unde- 
composcd vegetable substances. Recently, the leg bone of an animal, sup- 
posed to be an ox, akhough much larger than thai animal now exists, was 
found twenty feet below tlie surface, wiiich is lower than the bed of the con- 
tiguous river. These facts present matter for interesting speculations to the 
minds of the geologist and naturalist. 

The natural growth of timber on this land is oak, which ship carpenters 
say, will vie with the live oak, pine, chesnut and gum. The land after 
cultivation, if permitted to lie out, invariably puts up a growth of pine. 

Mathews contains a population of 7GG6 souls, of which number 3481 are 
slaves, and 190 free negroes. The people of this county are engaged in 
ship building, maritime and agricultural pursuits. Until recently the two 
former occupied their principal attention; so entirely were they engaged in 
ship building some years back, that the cultivation of the soil, was almost 
entirely neglected, and it was necessary to import corn for home consump- 
tion—hence it is that this county has been behind others in agricultural 



228 EASTERN VIRGINIA— MATHEWS. 

skill; lately vessel building has decreased, and agriculture receives more 
attention. About 20 years ago, there were annually built one hundred ves- 
sels of various sizes and denominations, from large ships down to the small- 
est craft; at the present period there are built, every year, from 20 to 30 
vessels of different burdens. There are belonging to this county about 200 
ship carpenters, a great number of them find employment in the Navy 
Yai-ds and other places during the summer months, and return to their 
homes on the approach of winter. The low price at which vessels are built 
render it rather unprofitable, and the workmen cannot all find employment 
at home. 

East river is a port of entry, and has a Collector, and Inspector of the 
revenue attached to it; there are 1700 tons of shipping belonging to this 
port, among which is one ship, one brig, and a number of schooners and 
small skippers. Some of them make voyages to almost every part of the 
commercial world, hence it is, that many of the 'young men are trained to 
the perils of the sea. 

This county is supplied with meal by means of wind and tide mills, there 
being 10 wind and 2 tide mills, with only one common grist mill; conse- 
quently the people do not feel much inconvenience from long, dry seasons, 
except in procuring water for the cattle. The land, lying almost on a dead 
level, there cannot be any fresh water streams running through it, and con- 
sequently in dry seasons every cattle hole, at which the stock was watered 
dries up, and they suffer much from thirst. Sometimes, in excessive drought, 
the inhabitants have difficulty in procuring water to drink themselves. Wells 
are generally dug 8 or 10 feet deep, so that the water they contain is that 
Avhich filtrates through the earth, and when the ground becomes dry, the 
water ceases to flow; but recently wells have been dug 30 feet, Avhen large 
veins of water have been found, which are inexhaustible. There are a few 
springs of excellent water, but they are rare. The manufacture of castor 
oil has been carried on by only one press, a [ew years since the palma 
christi bean was extensively cultivated, but it is now reduced. 

On the east side of the county is an island comprehended within its limits 
and known by the name of Gwyn's island; it contains 2000 acres of land, 
and 200 inhabitants. It is surrounded by the waters of the Chesapeake; it 
has two points, that to the north is called Cherry Point, and that to the south 
Sandy Point. There is a tradition, that Pocahontas, in attempting to swim 
across the Piankatank river, was near drowning, but was rescued from a 
Avatery grave by an individual, to whom, as a reward for his services, she 
gave this island. After Lord Dunmore was driven from Williamsburg, he 
took up his quarters on this island, where he remained some time. 

The predominant religion of the people is the Methodist; there are in 
this county seven meeting houses belonging to that denomination, two of 
which belongs to the reformed Methodist; there are two Baptist meeting 
houses, the congregations attached to which are rather thin ; there are a 
few Episcopalians and Universalists, who, however have no places for pub- 
lic worship; the latter never had any church, and the churches held by the 
former, under the old established English church, have fallen into dilapida- 
tion and decay. There is a Sunday school kept at almost every house of 
public worship in the county, and several common schools, but no academy. 
Population in 1810, 4227— in 1820, 6920— in 1830, 7666. It belongs to 
the fourth judicial circuit and second district. Taxes paid in 1833, $955 98 
—in 1834, on land, $380 13—1694 slaves, $423 50-5-59 horses, $^33 54 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— MECKLENBURG. 



229 



— 13 coaches, 
8950 07. 



$10 10— M carryalls, $10 20—80 gigs, $50 GO— Total, 



TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Bell Isle, P. O. in the northern 
part of tlie county, 13 ms. S. E. oi" R. 
and 182 S. S. E. of W. 

MATHEWS C. H. or Wcslvlllc, 
P. V. and seal of Justice, is situated 
near the centre of the county. It lies 
in 37° 35' N. lat. and 0° 40' E. hng. 
of Washington, 100 ms. E. of R. and 
184 from W. C. Westville contains 
about 30 houses, 4 mercantile stores, 
1 lanyard, 3 boot and shoe factories, 1 
tailor, 2 blacksmiths, 1 saddler, 1 car- 
riage maker, and 1 tavern. The pub- 
lic buildings are a very neat, new C. 
H., 2 jails, 1 for criminals and the 
Other for debtors, and a clerk's office. 



These houses are all well built of 
brick. Westville is a port of entry; 
there are 2 regular packets which ply 
between this place and Norfolk week- 
ly, and 1 that runs from it to Balti- 
more. Population 150, including 3 
regular physicians. 

Con Illy Courts are held on the 2<Z 
Monday in every month; — Quarterly 
in March, May, August and Nov'r. 

Judge Semple holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chan- 
cery on the Tuesdays after the \st 
Mondays in Ajrril and October. 

North End, P. O. inthe W. part of 
the Co., 9 1 ms. E. of R. & 1 75 from W. 



Mecklenburg, was created by the legislature in 1704, and formed out 
of a portion of Lunenburg: — It is bounded on the N. by Meherrin river, 
which divides it from the county of Lunenburg, on the E. hyaline runniug 
S. from the Meherrin to the Roanoke river, where it intersects the North 
Carolina line. On the S. by the state of N. C. on the W. by Aron's creek, 
and the Dan and Staunton rivers, which divide it from Halifax, and by a 
line running N. 3 1° E. 15-|- ms. which divides it from the county of Charlotte. 
It extends from 30° 30', to 30° 59' N. lat. and in long. 1°08', to 1° 40' W. ofW. 
C. — Length 30, mean width 18, and area 730 sq. ms. The rivers Dan 
and Staunton are separated by a narrow slip of land called the fork of Hali- 
fax, for 8 ms. which in that distance is no where more than 1 mile wide, 
and in several places not more than 100 yards, and has three passages 
uniting the 2 rivers before their final junction at Clarksville where they 
form the Roanoke. 

The Dan from Aron's creek, as the river meanders to its junction with the 
Staunton at Clarksville, is 12^ ms., and its course is E. S. E. the course of 
the Staunton is S. E. by E. and its distance as the river meanders from the 
Charlotte line, to Clarksville, is 9 ms. The course of the Roanoke from 
Clarksville to the S. E. corner of the county, wheie it intersects the N. C. 
line, is E. by S. — Thus the Roanoake and Dan divide the county into two 
unequal parts; that on the S. side of the river is somewhat the largest, but 
much the narrowest, and lies in the form of a rectangular triangle, the 
legs of which are the N. C. line; and Aron's creek, and the rivers Roanoke 
and Dan form the hypothenuse, throwing aboi\t 200 sq. ms. of this countj', 
on the S side of the river. Tliere are on the Roanoke, about 12,000 acres 
of very fertile low grounds, which are valued on an average, at $30 00 per 



230 EASTERN VIRGINIA— MECKLENBURG. 

acre: — the average width of the river is about 250 yards, and it has a do- 
scent or fall, of about 2 feet in a mile: the greatest falls are those at the 
Horseford, and Butcher's creek falls, each of which has a fall of about 5 
feet, in the distance of a mile. Fish are not very abundant in this river, but 
in the proper season a few shad are caught on the slopes fixed in the ri- 
ver, and with small seins: — the other fish are jack, chub, perch, round fish, 
&c. This river is navigable for boats, carrying 9 or 10 hogsheads of to- 
bacco. The river Meherrin which forms the northern boundary of the 
county, is (below the forks of the N. and S. Meherrin) about 40 yards wide 
on an average, and the decent, or fall of the river is about 3 feet in a mile. 
The bed of this river, is about 10 feet higher than the bed of the Roanoke. 
The quantity of low grounds on it, is not more than 1,000 acres, A-alued at 
an average "price of $20 00 per acre. This vb^r would be one of the 
easiest to render navigable of any in the state, by means of lock and dam 
navigation, from the head to Bell field, in Greensville, where the Petersburg 
Rail road crosses the river. The principal creeks in the county, on the S. 
side of the river, head in Granville, N. C, and are Aron's creek, which 
divides it from Halifax, on which are located 3 grist and 2 saw mills; and 
Buffalo creek on the margin of which, is 1 gristmill. On the latter creek 
are situated those valuable medicinal springs, called the Bufialo springs 
which in the watering season are visited by a number of persons from the 
south eastern part of the state, who do not choose to go as far up the coun- 
try as the mountains: those 2 creeks empty into the Dan river. Gn Blue 
Creek, half a mile below Clarksville, is situated 1 saw and grist mill. 
Grassey Creek has 1 grist mill on it, and receives before it empties into the 
river the water of Beaver pond creek: this creek empties into the Roanoke 
three fourths of a mile abov* Field's ferry. Nut bush has 1 grist mill lo- 
caated on it, and empties into the river, 1^ ms. below Haskins' ferr)-. Cot- 
ton creek enters the river If ms. below Alexande'rs ferry, and Smith's 
creek, 2 ms. below St. Tammany. Those creeks which empty into the 
Staunton, on the N. side of the river, are the Biff, Little, and Middle Blue- 
stone. Big Bluestone heads in Charlotte, and Litlle and Middle Blnestone 
empty into" it before it reaches the river. Kettle Creek also empties into 
Bluestone. Island creek is rather a biou or arm of the river, which breaks 
or runs out below Skipwith's ferry, and again enters the river, about 5 ms. 
below Clarksville; but before it empties into the river again, it receives the 
Sarnii/ creek. On Butcher's creek is situated 2 mills, and empties into the 
Roanoke at Butcher's creek falls, about 10 ms. below Clarksville. Allen's 
creek is the largest and longest creek in the county, and discharges more 
water than any other, — it has 3 mills on it, and receives on its passage to the 
river Coleman^s, and Mine creeks from the W. and Laton's creek. Cox's 
creek and the Long Branch on the E. Coleman's and Co.r's creek have 
each 1 mill on them. Allen's creek divides the lands of the county on the 
N. side of the river, into two nearly equal parts, it enters the river about 2 
ms above Alexander's ferry. On Miles' creek is located 3 mills and empties 
into the river at Goode's ferry. Dockery creek empties into Miles' creek. 
Avcn's creek and Parham's creek empty into Flat creek, which has 1 
mill on it, and empties into the river 2f ms. below Goode's ferry. Great 
creek has 1 mill on it, and empties into the river 7-^ ms. below St. Tamma- 
ny. Robin's creek empties into the Roanoke, near Haskins' ferry. Most 
of the larger creeks which empty into Roanoke, head within 2 or 3 ms. ot 
tlio Meherrin. There arc several other small creeks uhich empty into 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— MECKI.ENBUllG. 231 

Roanoke, or into the large creeks before they get to the river. Tlie creeks 
which empty into Mehcrrin river, are Finnewoori, which rises in Charlotte, 
Otter creek, Blacksfunc creek, Biicklunn muuntaiii, and Slitk^s crock. Tar/- 
lor''s creek rises in this county, and empties into the Mehcrrin 1 mile below 
Gee's Bridge, in the county ol" Brunswick. The quantity of low grounds 
which lie on the creeks and branches, may be estimated at about 4,000 
acres, and is supposed to be worth an average price of $20 an acre. 

The most eastern mountain in the state is in this county, and lies on the 
Meherrin river, at the mouth of iVIoantain creek,- — it is called Watkins' 
mountain. This county is neither mountainous or level, but is beautifully 
undulating, with hills and vallies: it is more hilly near the Meherrin river 
than elsewhere. The ridge which divides the waters of the Roanoke, from 
those of the Meherrin, is 210 ft. higher than the bed of the Roanoke, and 
200 higlier than the bed of the Meherrin. 

The soil of this county is generally fertile, although the ridges are thin 
and poor, yet it is generally a free soil. The lower, or eastern part of the 
county, is generally a light gray, or sandy soil, but free and productive; 
producing corn, oats cotton and tobacco of excellent quality, and as abundantly 
as any otner part of the county; it is in truth, the best cotton land in the 
county, but it is not so good for wheat as the other parts. There is a strip 
of land, running nearh" through the centre of the county, from N. to S. 
about 10 ms. in width, commencing 1 mile below Allen's creek and con- 
tinuing for 3 miles above Butcher's creek: the land is stifl'and red, — it con- 
sists of some of the best tracts of land in the county, though upon the ridges 
near Allen's and Butcher's creeks, some of it is sterile, but generally it is 
the best wheat land in the county, and produces a rich heavy crop of to- 
bacco; and in wet years excellent crops of corn and oats. The land in the 
upper part of the county above this red belt, is a light grey, gravelly soil, 
and produces abundantly corn, oats, Avheat and tobacco, but very little cotton 
is made in this section. The land on the S. side of Roanoke, is generally a 
light grey, fertile soil; and near Bufialo creek is a very free, productive 
grain land ; on, and near Grassy creek, both above and below% it is not so 
good, — on Nutbush, Cotton, and Smith's creek, it is generally very good 
and productive in grain, cotton and tobacco. The land on Bluestone, Cox's 
creek. Miles' creek, and Flat creek, is the best in the county, except the 
Roanoke plantations. The land on Allen's creek and Butcher's creek, 
although it contains a few of the best upland tracts in the county, is gene- 
rally inferior to other parts. 

The minerology of this county is but little known. There are some old 
pits, which are said to have been dug during, or before the revolution, by a 
mining company; and it is said that considerable quantities oi silver were 
obtained from them; but nothing has been attempted with them Avithin the 
last 50 or 60 years, — they are situated on Mine creek, near the centre of 
the county. There are indications of coal and iron to be found in several 
places, but no exertions have ever been made to discover the quantity, or 
value of it. There is a vein of granite, running through the county from 
S. W. to N. E. and in many of the hills, much gray rock. On most of the 
districts there is much common white flint rock; and in many places a spe- 
cies of rock which is of a yellowish gray color, which pulverizes very 
easily, and makes a fine grit for polishing metals. The timber is oak, pine 
and hickory, — the pine is principally confined to the lands about the centre 
of the county, between Cox's creek,^ind Bluestone: the oak is principally 



232 EASTERN VIRGINIA— MECKLENBURG. 

red oak, black jack and Spanish oak, -svith some white oak and post oak» 
The grape vine is very abundant. The under growth is chinquepin, dog- 
wood, sassafras, shumack, &c. The best qualities of the high land, has for 
its growth, post oak, hickory and black jack, or red oak ; the thinner soils 
are covered with whhe oak, Spanish oak and pine. The low grounds pro- 
duce considerable quantities of poplar, sycamore, birch, beech, ash, elm, 
&c. with some paupau, red bud and buckeye. The products of agriculture 
in this county are principally corn, wheat, tobacco and oats, with some cot- 
ton. — The quantity of tobacco, may be estimated at 3,500 hogsheads an- 
nually; the culture of cotton has been much reduced within the last 3 or 4 
years, and at this time does not much exceed 100 bales for exportation; 
wheat is produced in considerable quantities for exportation — and the cul- 
ture of it is increasing since the Roanoke has been rendered navigable, and 
would be still further increased, if the Meherrin was rendered navigable, 
which it is expected will shortly be undertaken. 

The amount of agricultural capital employed in the county may be stated 
as follows : — 

Value of the land at cash price, . - - - $2,150,000 00 

Value of slaves, at do. do. ... - 2,750,000 00 

Horses, cattle and plantation implements, - - 275,000 00 

$5,175,000 00 

It may be safely assumed, after deducting the clothing, feeding and tax 
of the slaves, — the feeding and tax of the horses and other stock, and the 
repairs of plantation tools, that the profit on the Avhole agricultural capital, 
counting the increase of the slaves, stock, &c. is equal to about 15 per cent. 
per annum ; of which the whites, who are not actually employed in the field, 
must be supported, which leaves but little, — not over 3 or 4 per cent, of 
clear profits to the county. 

The tobacco, cotton and wheat, is nearly all sold in Petersburg, Rich- 
mond and Clarksville, but a considerable quantity of wheat, is manufactured 
into flour and some ol it is sent down the Roanoke, to the lower parts of N. 
Carolina, and to Norfolk. 

R.vxDOLPH Macon College is situated in this county, 1 mile W. of 
Boydton, and bids fair to be a very valuable and respectable literary insti- 
tution; it has not been 2 years since its first establishment, and it has at pre- 
sent 3 professors, besides the President of the college, — an excellent 
preparatory school attached to it; and at the present session 87 students 
in college, and 66 in the preparatory school; it is considered to be principal- 
ly under the direction and care of the Methodist church, but not entirely so, 
as sev^eral of the Trustees do not belong to that church. 

There is in Boydton a female Academy, which deservedly ranks high as 
a boarding school for young ladies; and 2 other very respectable boarding 
schools for young ladies in the county ; but the general plan of education 
in this county, is the old fashioned mode of building a little log house in 
each neighborhood, where there are as many scholars to be had as will cm- 
ploy a teacher, at about $100 or 150, and the price which is generally paid 
for tuition, is from $7 to 10 for each pupil, for- the scholastic year of from 10 
to 1 1 months. The number of common schools in the county is 62, and the 
average number of pupils to each is 16, — making 990 pupils in the common 
schools;r-there are 64 in the young ladies boarding schools, 66 in the R. 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— MECKLENBURG. 233 

M. preparatory school, and 87 ia the college, — making the whole number 
ot" .students in the county 1,207. 

The most numerous denomination of Christians in this county is the Me- 
thodists: they have 26 meeting hou.ses. The next most numerous sect is 
the Baptists, which has 1,5 meeting houses: the next is the Presbyterians, 
which has 'A meeting houses. Tiie last denomination is the Episcopalians, 
which has 2 churches in the county. There are in this county 23 mercan- 
tile stores, which sell on an average $210,000 w^orth of dry goods, annually 
only. This county purchases yearly about 360,000 weight of pork from the 
western drovers. The principal mechanical pursuits of the county, are car- 
penters, blacksmiths and wheelwrights: the first being the most numerous : 
of the second, there are 47 shops in operation, and several of the latter. 
There are 4 lanyards, several saddle and harness makers, 3 carriage and 
gig manufactories, 3 cabinet luakers, several boot and shoe factories, and 4 
tailor's shops, — there are 26 licensed taverns, 9 manufacturing flour mills, 
31 grist, and 8 saw mills, also 19 regular physicians and 9 practising attor- 
neys, — 2 United States mail stages pass through this county 3 times a week, 

1 froni N. to S. and the other from E. to W. crossing each other at Boyd- 
ton. 

There are on the Dan and Staunton rivers 2 ferries, Nelson's ferry which 
crosses the Staunton at Abbeville, and Skipwith's which crosses the Dan 
and Staunton at the lowest point of Union, before their final junction, I mile 
above Clarksville; and there are 7 which cross the Roanoke, Sommerville's 
which crosses the river at Clarksville, — Field's which crosses 6^ ms. be- 
low Clarksville, — Taylor's 4^ ms. below Field's, and 3 ms. S. of Boydton, — 
Haskins' 7^ ms. below Taylor's, — Alexander's 9 ms. below Haskins', — 
Goode's 3 ms. below Alexander's, and St. Tammany or Blanton's ferry, 
which crosses the river at St. Tammany's 4 ms. below. Population in 1820, 
19,786 — in 1830, 20,477. — This county belongs to the 9th judicial circuit 
and 5th district. Taxes paid in 1833, $5,014 74 — in 1834, on lots, 
$153 93— land, $2,354 69—6,421 slaves, $1,605 25—4,219 horses, 
$253 14—13 studs, $384 00—99 coaches, $243 50—35 carryalls, 
$35 15 — 118 gigs, $75 30. Total, $5,104. Expended in educating poor 
children in 1832, $625 6:2— in 1833, $764 02. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 

Abbeville, or Abbi\i/riJlc, P. O. jfemale school, 1 lanyard, 1 saddler, 1 
situated on the left bank of the Staun-jboot and shoe maker, 2 tailors, 2 cab- 
ton river, about 20 ms. above the in-Iinet makers, 2 smith's shops, 1 watch 
flux of Dan river, and 126 ms. S. W. maker and silver smith, 1 coach and 
of R., and 227 S. S. W. of W. |gig manufactory, I confectionary, and 

BOYDTON, P. V. and Coinifj/^l milliner and mantua maker. Ran- 
Sert.^, 118 ms. S. W. of Richmond, and dolph Macon College is situated I 
224 ms. from Washington, a flou-|mile W. of the village; and a gram- 
rishing and healthy village, situated 'mer school 2^ ms. S. of the College, 
near the centre of the county, 6 ms. | The mail passes through this place 3 
N. of Roanoke river. Besides the | times a week, from Petersburg to 
usual county buildings, it contains 801 Williamsboro, N. C, and from Mil- 
dwelling houses, 4 mercantile stores, |ton, N. C. to Lawrenceville, Va. The 

2 hotels, 2 houses of public worship, celebrated Buffalo Springs are situated 
(1 Methodist and 1 Presbyterian,) 1 30 ms. VV. of Bovdton. Population 

30 



234 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— .AJECKLENBURG. 



400 persons; of whom 4 are aUor-' 
neys and 3 practising physicians. 

County Courts are held on the 3r/ 
Monday, in every month: — Quar- 
terly in March, June, August and 
November. 

Judge Leigh holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chancery 
on the \2th of May, and October. 

Christiansville, p. v. Ill ms. 
S. W. of Richmond, and 212 ms. from 
W., situated in the upper end of the 
county, about 12 ms. N. of the C. H. 
The mail stage from Petersburg to 
Williamsboro, N. C. passes this place 
3 times a Aveek. It contains 6 dwel- 
ling houses, besides mechanic's shops, 
&c., 2 mercantile stores, 1 tavern, and 
a house of entertainment, 1 house of 
public worship, (Episcopalian) 1 in- 
corporated Academy — and 1 common 
school, 1 tanyard, 1 saddler, 2 smith 
shops, 1 tailor and 1 wheehvright 
shop, &c. Population 48 whites, and 
about 100 blacks. The soil in the 
neighborhood is a stiff red clay, and 
tolerably fertile, producing corn, 
wheat, cotton, tobacco, &:c. The 
growth of timber is principally Span- 
ish oak. 

Clarksville, p. V. 138 ms. S. 
W. of Richmond, and 236 ms. from 
Washington City, situated on the S. 
side of Roanoke river, directly oppo- 
site the junction of Dan and Staunton 
rivers, which form the Roanoke, in the 
southern part of the county. It con- 
tains 14 private dwelling houses 2 
houses of public Avorship, (1 Baptist 
and 1 Presbyterian,) 1 Academy, 1 
well organized Sunday school, and 
9 mercantile stores. The mechanics 
are, 1 tanner, 2 saddlers, 2 black- 
smiths, 1 wheelwright, 1 coach ma- 
ker, 5 house carpenters, 1 cabinet ma- 
ker, 1 brick maker, 1 bricklayer and 
stone mason, I plough manufecturer, 
and 1 boot and shoe manufacturer. 
There are 2 places for stemming 
tobacco, 1 warehouse, and another 
being erected. From 1,700 to 2,000 
hogsheads of tobacco, are inspected 



annually. About 15 boats constantly 
run from Clarksville to Weldon N. 
C. Population 200 persons; of 
whom 2 are regular physician. 

CJreensburg, P. V. or Greensboro 
108 ms. S. S. W. of Richmond, and 
219 ms. from Washington City, situ- 
ated in the N. part of the county, on 
the N. side of Cox's road, 8 ms. N. 
of Boydton, the County Seat, and dis- 
tant 18 ms. both from Clarksvile and 
Lunenburg C. H. Greensboro has 
been a place of condsiderable business, 
but at present is occupied as a pri\ate 
estalishment by a farmer with the ex- 
ception of a house of private entertain- 
ment for travellers and a post office. 

Hailstone, P. O. 124 ms. S. S. 
W. of R., and 230 ms. from W. 

LoMBARUY Grove, P. O. 81 ms. 
S. W. of R. and 237 from W. Lom- 
bard y Grove is merely a country 
seat ; the P. O. is kept at a considera- 
ble mercantile house, and is situated 
immediatelj^ on the stage read leading 
from Belfield, A'a. to^Milton, N. C. 
in a fertile and populous neigborhood, 
237 ms. from W. and 115 from R. 

Mill Grove, P. O. 217 ms. S. S. 
W. of W. and 106 ms. S. W. of R. 

Palmer's Springs, P. O. in the 
western part of the county, 103 ms. 
S. W. of R. and 22.5 from"W. 

RANDOLni Macon College, sit- 
uated about a mile from the village of 
Boydton, in Mecklenburg county was 
founded by the Virginia Conference 
of the Methodist Episcopal church, 
and is considered to be specially un- 
der the superintendance and patron- 
age of that denomination. It is how- 
ever, strictly a literary institution, 
there being no theological profefsor- 
ship in it, nor is it contemplated to 
have such at any future time. The 
avowed object of its founders, is to af- 
ford a liberal education at a very re- 
duced expense; and for the me ms to 
enable them to do so, they rely solely 
on private subscriptions ant dona- 
tions, — the state ha\ing cDntributcd 
nothing towards it. 



EASTERN VTKOTNIA— AITDDLESEX. 



235 



The buildings are of the best biiok, 
and are covered with tin. on an im- 
proved plan. They are extensive and 
elegant, I'urnisliing according to cal- 
culation, accommodation for 200 stu- 
dents. " The studies taught are di- 
vided into 4 departments : 1st. That 
of Languages : 2nd. That of Mathe- 
matics : 3rd. That of Natural Philos- 
ophv and Chemistry: and 4Lh. IMiat 
of Ethics;" and it is contemplated to 
establish a "department of agricul- 
• ture," agreeably to a provision of the 
charter; in view of which the Trus- 
tees have purchased 300 acres of ex- 
cellent land adjoining the College. 
There is also attached to the institu- 
tion a preparatory school, the princi- 
ple of which is a member of the Fa- 
culty of the College; — the school of 
course, being under the same imme- 
diate government as the College. 

This institution was chartered by 
the legislature of Virginia, in 1830, 
and was opened with a lew students 
in 1832. The members have been 
rapidly increasing however, and it 
now (April 1834) has 150, with a' 



flaltering prospect of a still greater 
number. Indeed its prospeTity niay 
be regarded as certain; especially if 
the Trustees shall be able to endow it 
liberally, as it is proposed to do. The 
College edifice stands on a beautiful 
eminence, from the summit of which 
a commanding view of the surround- 
ing country may be seen ; while from 
its base, springs of pure and living 
water constantly gush. The situa- 
tion is as healthy as it is beautiful — 
a fact which is of course essential to 
its prosperity. 

Spanish Grove, P. O. 110 ms. 
S. W. of R., and 217 from W. 

Saint Tammany's P. O. 97 ms. 
from R., and 219 from W. 

South Hill, P. O. 232 ms. from 
VV., and 110 from R. 

Tanner's Store, P. O. 93 ms. 
from R., and 215 ms. S. S. W. of W. 

White House, P. O. in the south 
western part of Mecklenburg county, 
137 ms. S. W. of R. and 243 from W. 

Whittle's Mills, 105 ms. S. W. 
of R., and 227 from W, 



MIDDLESEX. 

Middlesex was created by act of Assembly in 1675, and formed ont of 
a part of Lancaster county. It is bounded on the N. W. by Essex, — N. 
E. by the Rappahannock, which separates it from the counties of Rich- 
mond and Lancaster, — S. E. by the Chesapeake bay and S. W. by the 
Dragon Run, and Piankitank river, which separates it from the counties 
of King 6c ciueen, Gloucester, and Mathews. This county comprises a 
long and narrow point between its two bounding rivers. Its greatest 
length from N. W. to S. E. or from the Essex line to Stingray Point is 
about 39 miles, its mean breadth 5; and area 175 sq. ms. It extends in 
lat. from 37° 30' to 37° 48' W. and in long, from 0° 13' to_0° 40' E. of 
W. C. Within ten miles of the Chesapeake bay the two rivers Pianki- 
tank and Rappahannock gradually approach each other, and emptying into 
the bay, form a point to which" the name of Stingray has been given. 
Many navigable branches of the Rappahannock river make up into the 
county, affording convenience to the farmer in sending his produce to Bal- 
timore and Norfolk, at which markets the produce of this county is most 
generally sold. The lands lying immediately on the Dragon, Piankitank, 
and Rappahannock are fertile. The Piankitank river is navigable about 
14 miles from the bav. Thence to its source, a distance of about GO or 70 



236 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— NANSEMOND. 



miles, it is called the Dragon Run; on either side of which, there is a space 
varying from a quarter of a mile to half a mile in width, covered with 
valuable cypress, and other timber, and of inexhaustable fertility. This 
land is at present valueless to its proprietors from the frequent inundations, 
caused by the obstructions to the flow of water in the bed of the Run. 
The attention of the Legislature has been called to the removal of these 
obstructions, and thereby bringing into market an miinense quantity of 
timber, and the produce of a large district of land which would thus be 
made arable; — But the want of energy in the owners of the adjoining 
farms has hitherto prevented, and it is "feared, will continue to prevent the 
execution of any plan for efiecting these desirable objects. The prevail- 
ing religion of this county is the Baptist. 

Population in 1820, 4,057— in 1830, 4122. Middlesex belongs to the 
fourth judicial circuit and second district. Taxes paid in 1833, $799 06 
— inl834.— On lots, $14 70— on land,$3G4 23— on 1 140 slaves, $285 00 
—451 horses, $26 06— 2 studs, $30 00—11 coaches, $29 25—7 carry- 
alls, $7 00—85 gigs, $49 66 Total, $806 90. Expended in educating 
poor children in 1832, $539 91— in 1833, $416 42. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Churchville, p. O. 76 ms. from 
R. and 135 from W. situated 6 ms. 
from the Essex line and 7 from Ur- 
banna. 

He.^lv's, p. O. situated on the 
Fiankatank river, 12 ms. below Ur- 
banna. 

URBANNA, P. V. and county 
seat, 83 ms. a little N. of E. from 
Richmond, and 142 a little E. of S. 
from W. C. — situated on the northern 
shore, and near the mouth of one of the 
branches of the Rappahannock called 
Urbanna creek. It is a sea port, lo- 
cated 1 8 ms. above the mouth of the 
river, — a small but healthy village. 
It contains besides the ordinary coun- 
ty buildings, 9 private dwelling 
houses, 4 mercantile stores, 2 taverns, 
1 cabinet maker, 1 tailor, and 1 car- 
riage maker. Population 175 per- 
sons, of whom 2 are resident attor- 
neys, 4 regular physicians, and 7 



officiating ministers of the Baptist 
church. Urbanna for many years 
seemed rapidly going to decay, but of 
late has much improved in popula- 
tion, the number of its stores, &c. — 
There is much travelling through 
this place, to and from the adjoining 
counties, by persons who take the 
steamboats here for Fredericksburg 
and Baltimore. The northern mail 
(via Tappahannock,)and the southern 
mail (via York,) are each transmit- 
ted twice a Aveek through this coun- 
ty, stopping at Churchville, Urban- 
na, and Healy's post ofiices. 

County Courts are held on the Ath 
Monday in every month. Quarterly 
in March, May, August and Novem- 
ber. 

Judge Seihple holds his Superior 
Court of Law and Chancery on the 
Tuesday after the Zd Monday \\\ April 
and October. 



NANSEMOND. 

Nansemond was created by act of Assembly in the year 1645, and 
formed from a part of the county of Upper Norfolk. It is bounded on the 
N. by Hampton Roads, — E. by Norfolk county, — S. by Pasquotank county 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— NANSEMOND. 237 

of North Carolina, — W. by Blackwatcr river which separates it from 
Southampton, — and N. W. by the county of Isle of Wiju^ht. Its length 
diagonally from S. W. to N. E. is 40 miles, mean breadth 10, and area 
04U square miles: — and it extends in lat. from 3G° 30' to 36" 54' N. and in 
lon<r. from 0° G' to 0" 41' E. of W. C. 

Hirers. — The Nanxemond is the larp-ost river in the county, about 31 
miles in leno^th from its mouth to Cohoou's mill, where it heads — it empties 
into Hampton Roads, and is 7 miles wide at its mouth. Its course is N. 
N. E. and runs nearly in the middle of the county as far as it goes. It 
is navigable to Sutiblk for vessels of from 75 to 100 tons, and for small 
craft and lighters to Cohoou's mill. Nansemond river affords the finest 
oysters, crabs, and fish. 

Western Branch Creek is a branch of Nansemond river, about 10 miles 
in length; — it heads at ITr(|uhavl's mill, and empties into the Nansemond 
about 7 miles below Suffolk. Vessels of 75 to 100 tons burthen can be 
navigated as far as Milner's five miles above its mouth. Just below Mil- 
ner's, this creek forks, sending a branch to Scott's mill: it is navigable for 
vessels from 35 to 40 tons as far as Scott's mill, which is distant about 5 
miles from its mouth. The course of the Western Branch is nearly E. 

Ckuckatuck Creek rises at Chuckatuck mill — is about 10 miles long, and 
empties into James river. It is navigable for vessels of 35 to 40 tens 
for 6 miles. It courses E. 

Black Water river is the dividing line between Nansemond and South- 
ampton for the distance of about 12 miles : course S. E. — any vessel 
which can come in at Ocracoke Inlet, can be navigated to South Quay. 

Somerton Creek is formed by the junction of Knuckle and Bear Swamps, 
in the county of Nansemond, it then runs about 8 miles in this county: 
course S. W. — and empties into Chowan river, about 2 miles from the 
Nansemond line. 

hake Drummond is supposed to be from 15 to 18 miles in circumfer- 
ence: it differs but little in its diameter from N. to S. or E. to W. The 
water has perhaps gained more celebrity than it merits: it is slighty 
diuretic : in some seasons of the year it will affect the bowells also a little, 
like any other water if confined, and impregnated with so much vegetable 
matter. It contains a quantity and variety of fish. The brown perch and 
chub are large and very fine: there are other varieties of perch, not so 
highly prized; — also piUe, gars, catfish, eels, &c. Few wild fowl are 
found on this beautiful lake, which is somewhat remarkable, and the few 
which frequent it are principally ducks. Nearly the whole of the lake is 
within this county ; — perhaps a mile of the eastern extremity may be in 
Norfolk county : the depth of water is from 12 to 14 feet a few hundred 
yards from the margin. The bottom of the lake is hard and firm. 

The Dismal Sicamp Land Company'' s Canal, from the basin (which is 
on the bank of Cedar Creek,* a branch of the Nansemond,) to the lake is 
10 miles; — running for G miles nearly S. E. and then S. — width from 10 
to 12 feet; — depth from 3 to 4 feet. The water of the caixal flows into the 
lake: it is connected with the Dismal Swamp Canal Company through 
the waters of the lake. From tide water to the lake the distance is 10 
miles. 

The Dismal Swamp Land Company's land (with the exception of a small 



*Craney Creek is tlie ancient name. 



238 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— NANSEMOND. 



part which is in the county of Norfolk,) is situated in the county of Nan- 
semond — quantity of acres forty thousand. The growth consists of jui^i- 
per, cypress, gum, ash, maple, pine. The quantity of shingles usually 
exported by the Company is from 2\ to 3 millions per annum, amounting 
to $40 or $50,000 — governed by fluctuation in prices. 

Agriculture is at a low ebb, "although certainly improving within a few 
years. More attention has been paid to making and using manure from 
farm pens. The benefit of marl has been fully tested, yet although abun- 
dant on the river and creek baiiks, is still used in a limited way. The 
principal crops are corn, oats, peas, some wheat and cotton. The staple is 
Indian corn. 

Tar, turpentine and staves are not so abundant as formerly ; — they still 
form the principal and leading articles of trade in the county. 

Population in 1810, 10,324—1820, 10,494— in 1830, 11,784. Nanse- 
mond belono-s to the first judicial circuit and first district. Taxes paid in 
1833, $2067 73— in 1834 on lots, $175 20— on land, 920 12—2320 
slaves, i^580 00—1411 horses, $84 CO— G studs, $66 00—45 coaches, 
«ji97 07^1 stage, $1 00— 4 carryalls, $4 00— 231 gigs, $136 15. Total, 
$2064 18. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $238 51 — in 
1833, $438 97. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Chvckatitck, V.Y. 110 ms. from 
R. and 214 from W. Chuckatuck 
can scarcely be termed a village, but 
is more properly a thickly populated 
neighborhood, embracing about one 
square mile ; the central part of which 
is at the head waters of a creek bear- 
ing the same name, and which makes 
into James river about 8 ms. from this 
place. It is situated on the stage road 
leading from Smithfield, Isle of Wight 
county, to Suffolk, the county scat, 10 
miles distant from both places, and 
about 20 from Norfolk by the nearest 
land route. It contains 20 dwellinp 
houses, 3 mercantile stores, 1 tavern, 
and 1 house of public worship, (Me- 
thodist.) There are about 125 inhab- 
itants, including the operatives em- 
ployed in the Smithfield and Chucka- 
tuck Cotton Manufactory, erected by 
a company. This establishment runs 
1000 spindles propelled by water 
power. It is in successful operation, 
and largely contributes to the business 
appearance and support of this place. 
Within this square mile is an old 
venerable Episcopalian brick church, 
arotind which there arc some hand 



some and valuable farms. The popu- 
lation is about 300 persons : of whom 
1 is a physician. The neighborhood 
possesses great advantages, having a 
level and fertile soil, fish and oysters 
of the finest kind in abundance, and 
navigation at the doors of its inhabi- 
tants. 

SoiMKRTON, P. V. near the southern 
side of the county, and within 1 mile 
of the North Carolina line; 120 ms. 
S. E. of Richmond and 242 from W. 
C. This little village has 6 dwelling 
houses, with 1 mercantile store, 1 
house of public worship, (Methodist,) 
1 common school, 1 tavern, 1 cabinet 
maker, 1 tailor, 1 blacksmith, and 1 
milliner and mantua maker. Somer- 
ton is situated on the stage road. lead- 
ing from Norfolk, Va. to Fayetteville, 
N. C, 45 ms. from the former; also 
on a road making indirectly from 
Murfreesboro', N. C. to Smithfield, 
Va. Population 40 whites and 60 
blacks. The country around is fer- 
tile and thickly settled, having with- 
lin the circumference of a few miles 
40 farm houses. 

SUFFOLK, P. V. and scat of jus- 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— NELSON. 



239 



fire, situated on the right bank of. 
Nansemond river, 28 nis. N. W. bv 
W. of Norfolk— 102 nis. S. E. by E. 
of Richmond, and 224 a little E, of 
S. from W.; in lat. 3G^ 43' N. and 
long. 0^ 27° E. of W. C. Suffolk 
is a flourishing and wealthy little vil- 
lage, containing, besides the usual 
county buildings, about 300 houses, 
20 general stores, 4 houses of public 
worship, (1 Episcopalian, 1 Baptist, 
and 2 Methodist,) 1 Dorcas society, 2 
well organized temperance societies, 
and 5 common schools. The me- 
chanics are, I tanner, 2 saddlers, 3 
boot and shoe man ufacturers,3 tailors, 
3 cabinet makers, 2 house carpenters, 
3 blacksmiths, 2 wheelwrights, <fec. 
Population 1200 persons, of whom 2 
are attorneys, and 2 regular physi- 
cians. The Portsmouth and Roan- 
oke rail road passes through the 
centre of this town — distance from 
Portsmouth 17 miles — from Ports- 
mouth to the termination at the Roan- 
oke 77 miles. 

Counli/ Courts are held on the 2d 
Moii'iai/in every month. Quarterly 
in March, June, August, and Novem- 
ber. 

JuDGK Baker holds his Superior 
Court of Law and Chancery on the 
loth Mai/ and oOth September. 

South tluAY, P. O. 95 ins. S. S. 
E. of Richn^ondand 217 from W. C. 



South Quay is situated on Black 
Water river, which is a branch of the 
Chowan river of N. Carolina, and 
makes the dividing line between Nan- 
semond and Southampton counties. 
It contains about half a dozen houses, 
and its principal pursuits are agricul- 
ture. There is a post office and also 
a surveyor's office for the collection 
of the revenue. The latter having 
been established in consequence of 
the importance attached to the place 
during the Revolutionary and late 
war as a Q,uay, or depot for goods — 
its inland advantages recommending 
it as such. There are only two fami- 
lies residing here, consisting of 40 
or 50 persons; 2 of whom are attor- 
ney's. In the immediate vicinity are 
several physicians, both scientific 
and Thompsonians, meeting houses, 
schools, mercantile stores, and mills; 
and the neighborhood is somewhat 
densely settled. Should the contem- 
plated rail road between Portsmouth 
and the Roanoke be completed, of 
which there is every probability, the 
value of this place will doubtless be 
greatly enhanced, as it will pass im- 
mediately by South Q,uay. This, 
together with the Dismal Swamp 
canal, which connects the Carolina 
and Virginia waters, already having' 
a very sensible influence on this part 
of the country. 



NELSON. 

Nelson was created by act of Assembly in 1S07, and formed out of a 
part of Amherst county. It is situated immediately between the Blue 
llid<.e and James river. Bounded by Albemarle N. E. and E. — by James 
river separating it from Buchingham S. E. — and Amherst S., and S. W. — 
by the Blue Ridge, separating it from Rockbridge W. — and Augusta S. 
W. The longest line is diagonal from the extreme southern to the ex- 
treme northern angle — about 4& ms. — greatest width 28 — and area 5G0 sq. 
ms. — extending in lat. from 37° 32' to 38° 02' N. and in long, from 1° 
50' to 2° 7' W. of W. C. Its declivity is S. of S. E.— and it is drained 
by the difTeri^nt branches of Rock Fish and Tye rivers. 

This county is very broken and mountainous, particularly as it approaches 
the Blue Ridge. Between the ridges of mountains arc many beautiful 



240 EASTERN VIRGINIA— NELSON. 

I'allies, very fertile and productive ; upon the James are extensive low 
grounds, from a quarter to half a mile in width, very rich and fertile : — in 
the northwestern part of the county, on the head waters of the Rockfish 
rivei", and on the southwestern, on the waters of the Tye river, are large 
tracts of low grounds, and nearly level bodies of fine productive lands. 
The staple products of the country are, wheat, Indian corn, tobacco, rye, 
oats and potatoes — ^to the production of which the soil is well adapted. 
Tobacco was at one time the principal production for market, but the cul- 
tivation of that article has of late years greatly diminished, and has been 
succeeded by the less exhausting cultivation of wheat and rye, 

This county is watered in the S. W. by Tye river, and in the N. E. by 
Rockfish river, both have their sources in the Blue Ridge, and after run- 
ning entirely through the county empty into the James. They are by the 
aid of artificial improvement, capable of battcaux navigation to within 10 
or 12 miles of the Blue Ridge. The mountains in this county afford evi- 
dent indications of being filled with iron and copper ore, and contain seve- 
ral chalybeate springs, one of which m the S. E- is much frequented, and 
has been found very beneficial in all cases of debility. The mountains of 
this county generally contain a A-ery rich soil, capable of producing fine 
crops of tobacco and corn, and partially adapted to the production of pota- 
toes and hemp.- — There is no county in the State which affords, by the ex- 
haustion of the soil, more lamentable proofs of an injudicious system of 
husbandry; but there is now a spirit of improvement among the planters 
and farmers; they are beginning to use clover and gypsum freely, the 
beneficial influence of which is very manifest, — and in a few years there 
is but little doubt that this county will be among the most fertile, produc- 
tive and wealthy counties in the State. 

Besides the rivers before referred to, there are numerous creeks pene- 
trating this county, in every direction, afibrding many sites for mills and 
other machinery. There are three manufacturing mills. — The forest of 
the county consists of oak, pine, chesnut, chesnut oak, hickory and pop- 
lar. — In the spring, summer and autumn, the scenery exhibited by the 
mountains and A'allics, is truly beautiful and picturesque, but in the winter 
gloomy and desolate. The health of the county is equal to that of any 
county in the State. 

Population in 1820, 10,137— in 1830, 11,251. Nelson belongs to the 
twelfth judicial circuit and sixth district. Taxes paid in 1833, $2723 .88 
— in 1834, on lots, $(53 36 — on land, $1586 57 — 2983 slaves, $745 75 — 
2375 horses, $142 50—16 studs, $184 50—16 coaches, $41 30—15 car- 
ryalls, $16 15—11 gigs, $6 95. Total, $2787 08. Expended in edu- 
cating poor children in 1832, $169 06 — in 1833, $192 45. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Daavson's, p. O 107 ms. N. W. 
of R. and 149 S. W. of W. 

Faber's Mills, P. O. in the W. 
part of the county, 170 ms. S. W. of 
W. C. and 103 "W. of R. It con- 
tains 1 mercantile store, 1 distillery, 
1 blacksmith shop, 1 tailor, 1 boot 



manufacturing flour mill, 1 saw mill, 
1 woollen manufactory, and 10 d^vel- 
ling houses; in the vicinity there is a 
Baptist house of public worship. 
Population 50. 

Greenfield, P. O. 152 ms. from 
W, and 110 from R. 



and shoe factory, 1 wheelwright, l[ LOVINGSTON, P. V. and seat 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— NELSON. 



241 



of justice, 118 ms. a little N. of W. 
from R. and IGU S. W. of W. C, in 
lat. ^7^ 44' and long. 1° 52' W. of 
W. C. — situated on a branch of Tye 
river, near the centre of the county, 
on the stage road leading from Char- 
lottesville to Lynchburg, nearly equi- 
distant between the two places, 40 
ms. nearly S. from Staunton, and 36 
ms. nearly N. from Buckingham C.H. 

"It is a thriving little village, beau- 
tifully situated in a cove, at the head 
of which is Loving's Gap to the N. 
and commanding a view of a fine 
country to the S. The surrounding 
hills are truly romantic. The Sugar 
Loaf mountain is situated about 4 ms. 
from town, the top of which is often 
visited by parties to enjoy the rich 
scenery of an extended eastern and 
southern view, and the prospect of an 
unbroken chain of the Blue Ridge 
mountain of more than GO ms. in ex- 
tent. The view from Hanblet's moun- 
tains which is near town, is among 
the most interesting in the State. 
The Blue Ridge, the Sugar Loaf, the 
Tobacco Row, and many other moun- 
tains are in full view, whilst the 
southern prospect unfolds to the vis- 
ion plantation beyond plantation, 
woods beyond woods, hill beyond hill 
in rich succession, until the scene 
closes, Avhere earth and sky meet, in 
the far distant horizon." 

"Lovings'on contains 124 houses, 
among which are the court house, 
clerk's office, and jail, enclosed by a 
brick wall, which is entered through 
two arched gates. There are G mer- 
cantile stores, 1 apothecarj' shop, 2 
schools, 2 taverns, 1 tanyard, 2 sad- 
dlers, 1 blacksmith, 2 cabinet makers, 
1 milliner and mautua maker, 1 
wheelwright, 1 house joiner, and 1 
chair maker. The diflerent chris- 
tian denominations are Methodist, 
Baptist, and Presbyterian. The court 
house is used as a place for public 
worship. Population 250 persons; 
of whom there are 3 attorneys, and 2 
practising physicians." 
31 



Counly Courts ditc lield on the \lh 
Monday in every month ; Quarterly 
in March, May, August and Novem- 
ber. 

Judge Tiiomp.son holds his Cir- 
cuit Superior Court of Law and 
Chancery on the 29/A of April and 
September. 

Mount Horeb, P. O. Ill ms. W. 
of R. and IGO from W. 

Murrell's Shop, P. O. 110 ms. 
W. of R. and 177 from W. 

New Market, or Tye River 
Warehouse, P. O. in the southern 
partof the county, at the' in flux of Tye 
river into the James, 108 ms. W. of 
R. and 165 from W. It contains a 
tobacco inspection, at which from 3 
to 500 hosgheads are annually in- 
spected, 1 mercantile store, 1 tavern, 
a grist and saw mill, a blacksmith 
shop, and 12 or 14 dwelling houses. 
Population 65 persons, of whom 2 
are physicians. 

TvE River Mills, P. O. in the 
western part of the county, 131 ms. 
N. W. of R. and 173 from" W.— situ- 
ated on the Blue Ridg«, near Tye 
river, and Tye river turnpike, 10 
miles N. W. of Lovingston, in a 
populous neighborhood. • The farm- 
ers of the surrounding country are 
wealthy and the land fertile, produce 
ing well all the staples of the coun- 
try. There are several mills and 
mercantile stores in the neighbor- 
hood. 

Variety Mills, P. O. in the 
eastern part of the counly, 112 ms. 
N. W. of R. and 167 from W. It 
contains 4 dwelling houses, 1 manu- 
facturing mill, 1 grist mill, 1 mercan- 
tile store, 1 tanyard, and 1 cooper 
shop. Population 25. 

Warminster, P. O. in the eastern 
part of the county, 160 ms. S. W. of 
W. and 100 W. of R. — situated on 
the left bank of .Tames river, ^ mile 
from its margin, where it receives the 
waters of Swan creek, 50 ms. below 
Lynchburg. Though called a vil- 
lage, it consists at present of but 3 



242 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— NEW KENT. 



dwelling houses, and 2 store houses, 
and a masonic hall nearly in ruins, 
which is sometimes used as a place of 
public worship. A classical school 
has been annually kept here, or in 
the immediate vicinity. White popu- 
lation 15, colored 10. One physician 
has generally resided here. War- 
minster was established by enactment 
in the year 1788, and for a number of 
years carried on a profitable com- 
merce with the surrouiiding country 
to the extent of 40 or 50 miles. The 
foundations of several of the largest 
estates in Virginia were laid here; 
but Aviih the progress of population 
in other quarters of the State — with 
the division of the old county of Am- 
herst, and the subsequent establish- 
ment of the towns of New Glasgow 
and Amhert C. H., Lovingston and 
New Market, Bent Creek, and other 
places, trade has been carried to every 
man's door, so that the country which 
was once tributary to Warminster, 
now carries its support to other places 
with greater natural advantages. — 
This place, in consequence, has for 
some years past been retrograding in 
the number of its inhabitants and 
houses ; many of the lots have been 
purchased by the proprietor of the 
estate, in the inidst of which it is situ- 
ated, and have been thrown into the 
adjacent fields. — An inspection of to- 



bacco was authorised by the same 
law which established the town, and 
was continued for some years Avith 
considerable success, and abandoned, 
like most of the smaller inspections 
on James river. The statute book 
likewise presents several enactments 
authorising lotteries for raising money 
to build an academy, a church, and 
for opening roads to this place: but 
it is not known that any of these 
were ever carried into effect. The 
valley of James river though fertile 
here, is narrow, and the interior coun- 
try on either side is not productive. 
I The roads to it from every quarter 
are bad, and it is not probable that even 
the contemplated central improve- 
ment would increase the village be- 
yond its present size. It may be re- 
marked however that its situation is 
picturesque in a high degree. From 
a cliff opposite, on the right bank of 
the river, is an extensive and inter- 
esting view, taking in the fertile val- 
ley, winding for several miles above 
and beloAv, with the seats on the ad- 
jacent heights ; the small village 
half concealed by trees in the midst 
of the cultivated plain beloAv, the near 
prospect embraced by ranges of 
mountains beyond, and the Blue 
Ridge, predominant over the whole, 
in the distant horizon. 



NEW KENT. 

Nkw Kknt was created by an act of the House of Burgesses in 1G54, 
and formed from a part of York county. It is bounded N. by the Pamun- 
key, Avhich separates it from King William — N. E. by the York, separat- 
ing it from King and Q-ueen, — E. by James City, — S. by the Chickahomi- 
ny, Avhich separates it from Charles City and Henrico, — and W. by Hano- 
ver. Its length diagonally from east to Avest, is 33 miles, its mean breadth 
7, and its area 231 sq. ms. — It extends m lat. from 37° 19' to 37° 36' N. 
and in long, from 0° 11' E. to 0° 24' W. of W. C. — New Kent is compos- 
ed of tAvo narrow inclined planes; leaning toAA'ards its bounding rivers, its 
surface is hilly. Population in 1820, 6,630 — in 1830, 6,458. New Kent 
belongs to the fourth judicial circuit and second district. Tax paid in 
1832-3, !$1271 91— in 1833-4, on lands, $618 84—1753 slaves, S438 25 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— NORFOLK. 



243 



— S34 horses, S50 04—2 studs, $-22 00—29 coaches, $68 25— 12 carryalls 
§12 50—50 gigs, 848 00— Total, $1257 88. Expended in educating 
poor children in 1832, $102 22— in 1833, $101 64. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



NEW KENT C. H. P. V. near 
the centre of the county, 133 miles 
S. W. of W. and 30 E. of R. in lat. 
37° 26", and long. 0" 06' W. of W. 
C. — situated on the south side of the 
main stage road leading from Rich- 
mond to Williamsburg, and 3 miles 
S. of Pamunkey river, the nearest 
point of which from the C. H. is the 
old town of Cumberland, situated im- 
mediately on the south side of the ri- 
ver. Besides the usual county build- 
ings, this village contains 10 dwelling 
houses, 6 mercantile stores, and 4 ta- 
verns — no house of public worship, 
the C H. being made use of for that 
purpose. — The stage from Richmond 
to Williamsburg arrives here on Mon- 
days, Wednesdays, and Fridays, and 



leaves here for Richmond, on Tues- 
days, Thursdays, & Saturdays. There 
ire 2 other mails a week — 1 from 
Hanover C. 11. and another from 
King William C. H., the former on 
Tuesdays, the latter on Wednesdays. 
New Kent C. 11. may be considered 
a healthy place, there being no ponds 
or other stagnant waters Avithin four 
miles of the village. Population 41 
persons; of whom otie is a physician. 

Count]/ Courls are held on the 2d 
Thursday in every month; — Quar- 
ter! i/ in March, May, August and No- 
vember. 

Judge Semple holds his Circuit 
.•5uperior (.."ourt of Law and Chance- 
ry on the 'Ziid Monday in Mat/ and 
November. 



NORFOLK. 

Norfolk was created by act of the Legislature in 1091, and formed out 
of a part of lower Norfolk. It is bounded on the N. by Hampton Roads 
and the Chesapeake, — E. by Princess Anne, — S. by Currituck and Cam- 
den counties of North Carolina, — and W. by Nansemond. Its length from 
south to north is 32 miles, its mean width 17, and area 544 sq. miles. — ex- 
tending in lat. from 36° 30' to 36° 59' N. and in long, from 0° 33' to 1° 2' 
E. of W. C. 

The northern part of this county is drained through Elizabeth river into 
the Chesapeake, and the southern through the Dismal Swamp, and Lake 
Drummond, into the Pasquotank, and thence into Albemarle Sound, North 
Carolina. (See an account of the Dismal Sivamp in the General Descrip- 
tion of Virginia, page 41, the more particular description there promised 
for this county, not having come to hand.) 

The Dismal Sivamp Canal is 22 miles long, and has been a work of 
snch. labor and difficulty, as cannot be appreciated by those who have not 
seen it in progress. The public reports show that nearly 8800,000 have 
been expended on the work. The tolls of the year ending November 30th 
1832, were $33,290, and those of 1829 were only $13,040, showing an in- 
crease of $20,250. Lake Drummond, near the centre of the Dismal 
Swamp, and three miles from the Canal, is in times of great drought the 
only feeder, it has a surface of about six square miles, and varies from 10 
to 20 foot deep. Its surface when lull is 21 1 feet above tide water, and 



244 EASTERN VIRGINIA— NORFOLK. 

iibove the level of the water in the upper level of the canal, which has five 
locks, two of the north end rising 13 feet. The N. W. lock, 10 miles S. 
has 3^ feet rise to the summit level ; Culpepcr lock, 6 miles distant, 3-| feet 
fall; and the south descending lock has 13 feet fall. This canal opens a 
communication between the port of Norfolk, and Portsmouth, and the wa- 
ters of Albemarle and Pamlico sounds. The north end empties into Deep 
creek, a branch of Elizabeth river, 4 miles in length; and the south into 
Toice's creek, a branch of Pasquotank river. The Dismal Swamp is 20 
miles through, in the direction of the canal. 

As the Portsmouth and Roanoke Rail Road, which is now under con- 
tract, is likely to exercise a very important influence upon the destinies of 
the whole section of country through which it will pass, we give a descrip- 
tion of its location and plan of construction, from the report of its engineer 
Walter Ctwynn, Esq. 

" The line which I have selected as the basis of my estimate, commences 
at the intersection of the western boundary of Portsmouth and the centre 
line of High street, and proceeds over an extremely level and unbroken 
surface to an eligible site for crossing by a bridge, a branch of the Nanse- 
mond river, a kw hundred yards north of the termination of the Dismal 
Swamp Land Company's Canal. Thence continuing the line to Suffolk 
several spring branches are crossed, requiring the construction of small 
stone drains and some heavy cuttings and fillings. After leaving Suffolk 
the character of the country changes and becomes somewhat bold — and in 
order to diminish the quantity of excavation and embankment several undu- 
lations in the plane of the Rail Road are unavoidably made — the inclina- 
tions are, however, gentle, and the line reaches Blackwater without encoun- 
tering any other difficulties than an increased expenditure on this portion of 
it. From Blackwater a level is maintained for some distance, the line passes 
along the borders of the Swamps which make up to the Highlands, and 
crossing the Nottoway, on the lands of Mr. Rochelle about seven miles be- 
low Jerusalem, it ascends at the rate of 20 feet per mile, passing near Mr. 
Gurley's to the Cypress Bridge Road. Thence, leaving Vick's Chapel a 
little to the south and making a slight undulation to avoid some filling, the 
line arriv^es at Capt. Barns' Quarter, on the summit of the ridge dividing the 
waters of the Nottoway from those of the Meherrin. From Captain Barns' 
a descent is effected on a grade of 20 feet per mile to Buckhorn Run. 
Thence the line is continued, on a level, across the Meherrin, about a mile 
above Branch's Bridge. It then ascends, varying from an inclination of 
20 to 12 feet per mile, until the summit of the Rail Road is attained, giving 
an elevation, above the level of tide water, of 144 feet. 

*' Descending from the summit, the Line crosses the Petersburg Rail 
Road, (on a level with that Road,) about two hundred yards south of Capt. 
Garey's. It afterwards crosses the head of Raccoon Swamp, and termi- 
nates on the North bank of the Roanoke River, opposite Weldon. Its direc- 
tion is S. 70 W., and its length 77 miles, being only half a mile longer 
than the distance on a direct line between Portsmouth and Weldon. 

" The greatest inclination does not exceed 20 feet to the mile, and through- 
out the whole extent of the Road there are but few deviations from a straight 
line, and these are effected on the arcs of circles whose radii are in no instance 
less than v5730 feet, and are most generally 1 1,4G0 feet in length. 

"Gentle inclinations and easy curvatures (when it is necessary to vary 
from a straight line) are points "of essential importance in the location of 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— NORFOLK. 245 

Rail Ixoacis — tlioso dosirablo objects as woll as a line cxlroinely favorable to 
tho ailvaiitanfooiis cinployni*^'iit of Locoinolive Engines arc hore attained. 
Indeed, considering the straightness and the moderate ascents and descents, 
the performance oi' an Engine {of given poircr) will be greater on this, 
than on any other Rail Road now constructed in the United States. We 
arc therefore enabled to use light Engines, thereby diminishing very consi- 
derably the great and leading items in the expense of transportation on 
Rail Roads, viz: trear and tear and I'cpairs. 

"The Engine which it is proposed to use will not exceed five tons weight, 
and its performance on this Road will be equal to that of a six ton Engine, 
on a Road with 30 feet grades. From this general view it will be seen, 
that the face of the country is eminently suitable to the proposed work. 
The intervening Swamps and the alluvial bottom lands of the Nottoway, 
Blackwater and Meherrin, ofler no serious obstacles. — The bottom is every 
where composed of solid materials, affording a firm foundation for any em- 
bankment or other structure it may be necessary to place on it. 

'' Const ru Clio )i of (he Road. — It will not be necessary on the present oc- 
casion to discuss the relative merits of the various modes of construction — 
and the variety of materials which have been used in the formation of Rail- 
Waj-s. Suffice it to say, that the almost universal substitution of wood for 
stone, and the iron-edge- rail, establishes its preference in the first instance 
even where stone is abundant and timber scarce. Among the many reasons 
for this preference of wood, are — its elasticity, its sufficient stabilit}'-, and its 
diminution of the iccar and tear of engines and cars. It follows, then as a 
necessary consequence, that I recommend for your Rail Road the use of 
timber, which is found in abundance, of excellent quality on almost every 
part of the line. 

"The superstructure, then, w-hich I propose to adopt, will be heart pine 
rails, nine by five inches, plated with iron bars two inches wide, and half 
an inch thick, resting on white or post oak sills, ten by twelve inches, and 
eight feet long, placed across the road, five feet apart from centre to centre. 
The rails will be placed parallel to each other four feet eight and a half 
inches apart, let into the sills and properly secured by white oak wedges. 
The sills will be notched for the reception of the rails and w-edges and hol- 
lowed out in the middle, so as to admit of the construction of a path over 
them, which will add considerable stiffness to the road, at a very moderate 
expense — and adapt it to the use of either horse or locomotivepower, or both. 

" Width of Road Bed. — I have estimated for a single rail-way, which 
for the present will afford sufficient accommodation to the trade and travel. 
The ditches, however, will be cut and the waste earth disposed with a view 
to a double track, whenever it may be deemed necessary. The graduated 
surface of the road-bed in excavations, will vary from 18 to 16 feet in width, 
the slopes being 4.5°. The graded surface on embankments will present 
a uniform width of 12A feet, with side slopes of 33J° or 1.^ base to 1 per- 
pendicular. 

"Between Suffolk and Spikes' Run we shall pass several small streams 
by means of stone drains. 'I'iie stone for this purpose can be readily ob- 
tained at Port Deposites, and the work done now, on as reasonable terms 
as at any other period. Farther on, wooden structures will be thrown over 
the water courses, with a span afl'ording sufficient room for the erection 
hereafter of .stone or brick culverts. The bridges across the Blackwater, 
Nottoway and Meherrin Rivers will be supported by abutments and piers 



24G 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— NORFOLK. 



iry, the stone for which can be transported by water from Norfolk 
espective sites, and will not at most exceed $5 per perch (of 25 



of masonr 
to their respecti 

cubic feet) delivered. On approaching the Roanoke, rock is found tolera- 
bly convenient to the line, and will probably be used in crossing the Oco- 
neechee, Troublefield, and Raccoon Swamp." 

Population in 1820, 15,40-5, including that of the borough of Norfolk — 
exclusive of the borough, 6,987 — in 1830, 24,814. Norfolk belongs to the 
first judicial circuit, and first district. Tax paid in 1832-3, (no report) — 
in 1833-4, on lots, $1403 G3— on land, $1220 23—3280 slaves, $770 00 
— 1572 horses, $94 32~G studs, $52 00—33 coaches, $73 00—27 carry- 
alls, $28 00—133 gigs, $87 15— Total, $3728 33. Expended in educat- 
ing poor children in 1832, $482 36— in 1833, $573 40. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 

Deep Creek, P. V. 123 ms. from lis composed of these two substances, 
R. and 226 from W. Deep creek, is land is of various depths, sometimes of 
a branch of Elizabeth river. The j 20 feet; — in this (.syjowi^c as it is call- 
village is situated near the creek, at jed here) are imbedded innumerable 
the northern extremity of the Dismal old trees of juniper, from which much 
Swamp canal. It stands on each side of the lumber shipped from Deep 
of the canal, near its northern outfall Creek is made. It is no uncommon 
lock, and has indeed been created by thing to find under the roots of a tree 
the canal. It is now a flourishing that has been cut for the purpose of 
depot, being located nearly equidistant making shingles, another and larger 
between the towns of Norfolk and old fallen tree, entirely covered with 
Portsmouth. It contains 25 dwelling sponge and trees of new growth, 
houses, 6 general stores, 2 taverns, 1 which is in a perfectly sound state, 
house of public worship, free for all and nearly or quite as good for shin- 
denominations, 1 grist mill, 1 saw gles, as the green timber. These 
mill, 2 boot and shoe factories, and 2 shingles, and the other lumber, are 
tailors. Its commercial business is brought out of the Swamp, eitlier 
nearly confined to a trade in large Ithrough ditches cut for the purpose, 
juniper or white cedar shingles, rails, jin narrow, long lighters, or are carted 
pales, and timber for coopers. It jOut by mules, on roads made of poles 
gives constant emploj-ment to ten or laid across the road, so as to touch 
twelve respectable schooners, which 'each other, forming a bridge or cause- 
load in the creek, a mile below thoiway. There are very many miles of 
locks, and trade to Philadelphia, New jsuch road. The laborers carry the 
York, and other places. These shin- jshingles, &c. to these roads from the 
gles and other juniper lumber, are the trees, on their heads or shoulders. — 
produceof the Dismal Swamp, though The border of Deep creek is a salt 
much of the Swamp has no trees of marsh. — In opening a communication 
large growth, but is covered with an ifrorn the north outfall lock, through 
almost impenetrable thicket of reeds, 'this marsh to the creek, a very large 
grass, and bushes; some parts of it, |and solid pine stump was found, evi- 
however, are timbered with gum, jdcntly in the place where it grew. It 
beach, pine, and oak; and other parts jis in the way of the navigation, and 
with juniper and cypress: these lat-jat very low tides, is uncovered. This 
ter growing where the water and mud lis the more surprising, as pines do 
or decayed vegetable matter is deep-not (ui other instances) grow in salt 
est. The whole surface of tlie Swamp 'marshes, but delight in a dry, sandy 



EASTERN VlRCilM A— NORFOLK. 



247 



soil. Much labor has boon spent, to 
little purpose, in attempting t(i re- 
move it. Pine stumps are also found 
in Albemarle sound, evidently in the 
same situation in which they grew, 
though now a number of feet under 
water, and below the surface of the 
Ocean. 

Another geological trait in this part 
of the state is worthy of notice. Wells 
dug in the sand to the depth of six, 
eight, or ten feet, aflbrd good water; 
but if carried a few feet lower, the 
stratum of sand is passed, and one of 
offensive mud is encountered, which 
destroys the well. 

There is a traditionary anecdote 
connected with Deep creek, which 
deserves to be noticed. During the 
war of the Revolution, a French ves- 
sel was pursued into this creek by an 
English vessel; and some remains of 
the Frenchman still continue, to ob- 
struct navigation, and confirm the sto- 
ry; but the tradition adds further, that 
before the French crew abandoned 
and sunk their ship, they charged a 
gun with specie, and threw it over- 
board, to prevent its falling into the 
hands of the English, and much time 
has been spent in a vain search for 
that gun. 

Great Bridge, P. O. situated on 
the southern road 12 miles S. S. E. of 
Norfolk, 126 S. E. by E. of R. and 
229 from W. 

NORFOLK BOROUGH, Sea 
Port, and P. O. 114 ms. S. E. by E. 
of Richmond, and 217 S. S. E. of 
Washington — in lat. 36° 52', and 
long. 0^' 41' E. of W. C— situated 8 
miles above Hampton Roads, on the 
north bank of Elizabeth river, near 
the junction of its southern and eas- 
tern branches. It covers about 600 
acres of ground. Norfolk harbor 
admits vessels of 18 feet draught, and 
renders the Borough the most com- 
mercial depot of Virginia. Its har- 
bor is perhaps surpassed by none in 
the world, being spacious, safe from all 
winds, and of easy access to the ocean, 



for vessels at all seasons of the year. 
It is completely fortified from foreign 
enemies by the fortress on Craney 
Island, and by the Avorks erected at 
the outlet of Hampton Roads, by the 
U. S. Government. It is within a 
few hour's sail of the Potomac, Rap- 
pahannock, York, and James rivers. 
The advantages which it possesses 
have attracted the attention of the 
General Government, which has ex- 
pended immense sums in the erection 
of a Navy Yard, Dry Dock, and Ma- 
rine Hospital, on a scale, and in a 
style, suited to the great naval depot 
of this Union. The close connection 
existing between Norfolk and North 
Carolina, by means ot the Dismal 
Swamp Canal, causes large quantities 
of produce from that state to find their 
way through this channel to markft. 
In addition to this, the Portsmouth 
Rail Road, (to be completed in 1835,) 
will open to its enterprising citizens 
an extensive back country, abounding 
in every production of our soil and 
climate. Previous to the late war, 
Norfolk monopolized almost all the 
trade with the British West Indies, 
which was a source of much profit to 
her merchants. From that period, 
however, with the exception of the 
years 1816, '17 and '18, during which, 
the restriction was removed, her com- 
merce has been in a languishing con- 
dition; till the opening of the canal, 
and other causes, again brought it in- 
to healthy action. Large quantities 
of corn, lumber, and naval stores arc 
annually shipped from this port to 
Europe, the West Indies, and South 
America. It is already an extensive 
cotton market, and destined to deal in 
that article to still greater extent. The 
city presents a handsome view from 
the water. The streets, in consequence 
of the numerous creeks running into 
the town from every direction, are 
laid out without any regard to order 
or regularity; many buildings, with 
stone fronts, and in imj)rovcd style, 
have been erected within a few years. 



248 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— NORFOLK. 



and real estate has greatly increased 
in value within the same period. Its 
health, too, has improved in a remark- 
able degree, owing doubtless to the 
paving of the streets, proper draining, 
and better water, by means of cisterns ; 
Avhich last are very common. The 
domestic government consists of a 
Mayor, Alderman, & Common Covui- 
cil; the first and last being chosen 
annually by the people. The public 
buildings are, a custom house, court 
house, almshouse, academy, and pri- 
mary school house, a. maritime hospi- 
tal, Mason's lodge, 8 houses of pub- 
lic worship, (2 Episcopalian, 2 Me- 
thodist, I Baptist, 1 Presbyterian, 1 
Catholic, and 1 for colored people.) 
There is 1 theatre, 1 free school, 18 
private seminaries, 2 printing offi- 
ces, — each issuing news papers — a 
news room, and an extensive public 
library. A lyceum, and infant school 
house, of beautiful design, have been 
erected by the liberality of private in- 
dividuals. There are 3 Banks, — U. 
States Bank, Virginia Bank, and 
Farmers' Bank of Virginia — ten 
steamboats ply from Norfolk to Bal- 
timore, Richmond, and other places. 
There are lU bote's, 3 steam mills, 3 
lanyards, 2 rope walks, and every 
mechanical pursuit is carried on. 

An Admiralty Court, a Superior 
Court of Law, and a Monthly Court, 
conduct the administration of justice. 
There are also, a mechanic's society, 
a humane, and a marine society, 2 
volunteer companies of Infantry, 1 of 
Artillery, 1 Rifle, and 1 Cavalry com- 
pany. A cemetery covering several 
acres of ground has been laid out by 
the corporation, and tastefully planted 
in evergreens, which adds much to 
the beauty of the place. Norfolk, 
except Williamsburg, is the oldest in- 
corporated town in Virginia, deriving 
its charter from the British Govern- 
ment. The market abounds in fish, 
oysters, vegetables, &c. of the choicest 
kinds. The chief imports are, coffee, 
rum, salt, sugar, and molasses. I'opu- 
tion about 1C^00U persons. It con- 



tains 14 attorneys, and 16 physicians, 
The following table partially exhi- 
bits the effects of the fluctuation in the 
trade of Norfolk, upon its population : 

It contained in 1810, 1820, 1830, 

Whites, 4,77G 4,618 5,131 

Free colored, 592 599 928 

Slaves, 3,825 3,261 3,757 



Total 



9,193 9,478 9,816 



showing an increase of 1,338, in the 
latter period. The relative increase 
of the whites and slaves being very 
nearly equal, at about 1 1 per cent. 

Cuiyoratio7b Courts are held on the 
ilh Mondays in every month; — Quoi-- 
terly in March, June, August and 
November. 

Judge Baker holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chancery 
on the 10 /A of June and 18 /A of No- 
vember. 

Expended in educating poor chil- 
dren in 1832, $342 50— in 1833, 
$340 55. 

North W^est River Bridge, 
P. O. in the S. E. part of the county, 
on a small tributary of Currituck 
Sound, 24 miles S. E. of Norfolk, and 
about an equal distance N. of Eliza- 
beth City in N. Carolina, 138 miles 
from R. and 241 from W. 

PORTSMOUTH, P. T. and scat 
of justice, opposite to the Borough of 
Norfolk, on the left bank of Elizabeth 
river, and at the mouth of its southern 
branch, 219 miles S. S. E. of W. and 
116 from R. Portsmouth affords one 
of the finest harbors in America: — 
ships of the largest class may lay 
with safety at its wharves. The U. 
S. Navy Yard is directly on the south- 
ern extremity of .Portsmouth, and 
within the boundaries of the town. 
The Government has made here a 
large and costly dry dock, of the be,st 
materials and workmanship, capable 
of admitting a seventy-four into its 
bosom. This portion of the town is 
called Gosporf, and resembles the 
Northern Liberties of Philadelphia. 
Charlestown, or Newtown, another 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— NORTPIAMPTON. 249 



suburb, rapidly improving, stands on 
the opposite side to Gosport. Popu- 
lation in 1S30, '2000. 

County Courts arc held on the 3(/ 
3Ionday in every month; — Quarterly 



in March, June, August and Nov'r. 

Judge Bakkk holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the 15/ of June and XQtk of No- 
vember. 



NORTIIA3IPTON. 

This county was one of the original shires of 1634, under the name of 
Accomac shire, and was changed to its present name in 1643. — It is bounded 
N. by Accomac, — W. and S. by Chesapeake bay, and E. by the Atlantic 
Ocean. Its length from S. to N. i.s 32 miles, its mean width, if the Atlan- 
tic Islands are included, 10, and its area 320 square miles. It extends in 
lal. from 37° 05' to 37° 33', and in long, from 1" to l'^ 28' E. of W. C— 
Paramore's, Hog's, Prout's, and Smith's islands cover the Atlantic coast of 
nearly the whole county. 

"The county of Northampton is the southern extremity of the long, low 
peninsula which forms the eastern side of the Chesapeake, and which com- 
prehends eight counties in Maryland and two in Virginia. Separated as 
these counties are from the rest of the state, by the spacious bay, which the 
eye can scarcely see across, and being aniong the first settled parts of the 
colony, they are a more unmixed people than is often to be found in our 
country, and retain more of the usages, and even language of former times, 
than perhaps any part of the state. The ancient hospitality of Virginia is 
here found unimpaired; and the inhabitants have a high relish for good liv- 
ing, which they are also enabled to indulge by a soil and climate extremely 
favorable to gardening, and by an abundance of excellent fish, oysters, and 
crabs. They preserve great neatness in their houses and persons, which is 
a characteristic of persons living in a sandy country. The whole county 
is as level as a bowling-green, and the roacis are good at all seasons of the 
year. This circumstance has probably increased the social character and 
habits of the people, as it certainly has their pleasure carriages. The num- 
ber of gigs in the county, is near three hundred, which is considerably- 
greater than that of the free holders. It is computed that the county pays 
about 810,000 a year for its carriages. 

"The soil of this county is thin, light, and always more or less mixed 
with sand; but as it commonly rests on a stiff clay, and the land is too level 
to be carried off by the rains, or to "to wash," to use a term of the upper 
country, the inhabitants are very much encouraged to pursue an improving 
course of husbandry; yet in truth they are but indifferent farmers. They 
cultivate the same land inces.'sautly, one year in Indian corn, and the next 
in oats, (their two principal crops,) and their lands improve under this severe 
process, provided they are not also pastured. Whenever a field is not in 
cultivation, it puts up every where a rich luxuriant crop of a sort of wild 
vetch, called the magotty-bay bean, which shades the land while it is grow- 
ing, and returns to it a rich' coat of vegetable manure. It is by means of 
th?s fertilizing plant, and the aliment which is plentifully furnished by the 
vapors from the sea, that the product of these lands is so much greater 
than a stranger would be led to expect from the appearance of the soil. The 
land is so easily cultivated, that there are few parta of the state in which 



250 EASTERN VIRGINIA— NORTHAMPTON. 

more is produced to the man, or the horse, though more may be produced 
to the acre. On the best farms, an hundred barrels to the hand are ollen 
obtained. The fig and the pomegranate flourish without protection during 
the winter. The former attains the size of a stout tree, some times twenty 
feet high, and its delicious fruit is in greater abundance than the inhabitants 
can consume. They have not yet learned the art of curing it, or perhaps 
the species they have, is not suited to that operation. 

"Wind mills are in use here, but tide mills, at the mouth of small inlets, 
are preferred when attainable. These inlets deeply indent the shore, both 
on the 'bay and sea side,' and while they are convenient for fishing, shoot- 
ing wild fowls, and as harbors for their boats and small craft, they give a 
pleasing variety to the landscapes, which are indeed as pretty as is compati- 
ble with so unvarying a surface. Upon the whole, we know of no part of 
the state in which the comforts of life are enjoyed in greater number, or 
higher perfection. They have too, the sea and land breezes of the West 
Indies; which temper the sultry heats of summer ; and their only annoy- 
ances seem to be a few musquetoes, a good many gnats, and noAv and then 
a bilious or intermittent fever. There is here an article of culture which 
is not much met with in other parts of the state — it is the palma christi, 
called castor bean. It now constitutes a part of almost every farmer's crop, 
to the extent of eight to ten acres or more. The quantity of the nut or 
bean produced, is the same as the land would produce in corn. Each bushel 
yields about two gallons and a half of oil, and sells, at the press, for $1 25 
a bushel. This plant is now* cultivated in many of the counties on the 
Western Shore, and the oil it affords has become a considerable article of 
export, being preferred to that of the West Indies. 

"Among the curiosities of this county, are the ancient records of the 
county from 1640, and a marble tomb, or sarcophagus, about five feet high, 
and as many long, from which we transcribe the following singular inscrip- 
tion; 

Under this marljle tomb lies the body ] This inscription put on this tomb Avas by 

of the Honoi-able John Cnstis, Esq. 1 his own positive orders. 

of the City of WilliamsbHig:, 

and Parish of Burton. Wm. Coslcy Man, in Fcnchurcli street, 
Formerly of Hungai's parish, on the I'ecit, London. 



Eastern Shore 



of Virg-inia and county of Northampton, | The writer was so intent on perpctnating- 
Aged 71 years, & yet livedbut seven years,, his troubles, that he has not mentioned the 



which was the space of time he kept 
A Bachelor's home at Arlington 
on the Eastern Shore of Virginia. 



time of his birth, nor did those who came 
after him supply the omission, or state tlie 
time of his death ; but it probably occurred 
early in the Last Century." 

It is certainly a strong caution against 
On the opposite side one reads ' the married state. 

Population in 1820, 7,70.") — in 1830, 8,644. Northampton belongs to 
the third judicial circuit, and second district. Taxes paid in 1832-3, $1967 
49— in 1833-4, on land, $99 18—1970 slaves, $492 50—1506 horses, 
$70 36—8 .studs, $140 00—13 coaches, $28 00—17 carryalls, $17 00— 
250 gigs, $224 70— Total, $99 2 74. Expended in educating poor chil- 
dren in 1832, $297 65— in 1833, $234 33. 



EASTERN YIRGTNTA— NOTITITUMBEIILAND. 



251 



TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 

Capkvim.e, p. O. situated 12 ms.{ The mechanical pursuits are, 1 coach 
south of Eastril/c, the county seat, 6 manufactory, which completes about 
N. of Cape Charles, and 17G from $G000 worth of work annuall\-, 1 
Richmond. Jt is a small village, con- coach and harness maker, 1 cabinet 
taiiiing 1-2 houses, 2 mercantile stores, maker, 2 blacksmiths, 2 boot and shoe 
1 boot and shoe factory, and several manufactories, 3 tailors, 1 house and 
other mechanics. It is a place of sign painter, and 1 hatter. There are 
great resort, for the neighbors of se- in this village, 3 castor oil manufacto- 
veral miles around, to obtain early ries, and 2 others in the country, the 
possession of the news, from vessels whole making and exporting about 
arriving on the coast. Population 25. 20,000 gallons of oil annually. Its 
EASTVILLE, P. V. and seat o/*, principal commerce is with Baltimore, 
j'lstirc, 244 ms. S. S. E. of W. C.' Philadelphia, and New York. Pro- 
and 174 E. of Richmond, in lat. 37"^' perty has increased rapidly in value 
30' and long. 1° lo' E. of W. C. — whithin the last three years, having 
situated about the middle of the coun-j in Eastville more than doubled. The 
ty, between the Chesapeake bay and inhabitants are not to be surpassed for 
the Atlantic Ocean, 2 ms. from the their morality. and hospitality to stran- 
Avater on either side, cqui-distant from' gers. Eastville is healthy. Popula- 
the northern and southern extremity tion 217 persons; of whom 2 arc at- 
of the county, and 18 ms. north of torneys and 3 regular physicians. 
Cape Charles. Eastville is divided! County Courts are held on the 2d 
bya small valley, which runs through' Moadaji in every month; — Quarterly 
the centre of the town, and has two in March, June, Scpttvibtr and No- 
principal streets, running at right an- vcnihcr. 

gles. It contains, besidc^s the usuall Circuit Superior Courts of Law 
countj' buildings, 21 dwelling houses,; and Chancery are held on the 15///. 
4 mercantile stores, 2 taverns, 1 ncwl of May and 2[ st of Ortobcrhy Jvdof, 
and haudsomebriciv Episcopal church, Upshur. 
1 common school, an<i I bible sociefv.l 



NORTHUMBERLAND. 

NoKTHi"MBi:uL.\\D, was Created by the legi.'ilatni-e in 1G4S; we do not 
know from what county it was tnken. It is bounded on the N. by the Po- 
tomac river, N. E. and E. by Chesapcalce bay, S. by Lancaster, S. W. by 
Richmond, and W. by Westmoreland. Its length is 30 ms.; mean width 12:|, 
and area 246 sq. ms.' It extends in lat. from 38- 40', to 38^ 05' N. and in 
long, from 0^ 2', to 0^ 45' E. of Washington City. The southern portion 
inclines southeastward to the Chesapeake, and the northern portion, north- 
eastward towards th? Potomac. Population in 1810, 8,308 — 1820, 8,016 — 

1830, 7,953. It belongs to the 5th judicial circuit, and 3d district. Tax 
pi id in 1832-3, i$ 1,233 34— in 1833-4— on lots. §22 00— on land, 
$;5SG 77—1,571 slaves, *392 75— 826 horses, $^49 56— 6 studs, 846 00— 
25 coaches, $54 50—6 carryalls, SG 00—158 gigs, $84 50. Total, 
81.242 80. Expendr'd in pdncatino' poor children in 1832, $242 80 — i^ 

1833, 8320 97. 



252 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— NOTTOWAY. 



TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Burgess' Store. P. O, in the 
southern part of Northumberland Co. 
101 ms. N. E. of R., and 160 ms from 
W. 

NORTHUxMBERLAND C. H. 
or HeathsviUe, P. V. 151 ms. S. S. 
E. of W. and 92 N. E. of R. This 
little village contains besides the or- 
dinary county buildings, 60 dwelling 
houses, 4 mercantile stores, 1 large 
and handsome Methodist meeting 
house, 1 Sunday school, 1 Academy, 
1 manufacturing flour mill, 1 tanyard, 
1 gig maker, I hatter, 1 saddler, 2 
tailors, 2 boot and shoe factories and 
1 confectionary. 

This village is pleasantly situated, 
ubout a mile and a half from the head 



lof Coan river, which is navigable, 
and empties into the Potomac. It is 
[perhaps the handsomest village in the 
Northern Neck. 

County Courts are held on the 2(i 
Monday in every month: — Quarter- 
ly in March, May, August and No' 
veviber. 

Judge Lomax holds his Circuit 
Superior Courts of Law and Chance- 
ry on the Zd of April, and \7th of 
October, 

Tan Yard, P. O. 101 ms. from 
R. and 162 ms. S. S. E. ofW. 

Wicomico Church, and P. O. 
about 6 ms. W. of Smith's Point, and 
9 ms. E. of Bridgetown, 160 ms. S, 
E. of W, and 98 ms. from R. 



NOTTOWAY. 

Nottoway, was created by the legi.slature In 17S8, and formed from a 
part of Amelia Co. It is bounded on the N. by Amelia, E. by Dinwiddie, 
S. by Nottoway river, which separates it from Lunenburg and Brunswick, 
and W. by Prince Edward. Its length is from S. E. to N. W. 19| ms. ; 
mean breadth 15, and area 297 sq. ms. It extends in lat. from 36° 54', to 
37° 14', and in long, from 1° 3', to 1° 26', W. of W. C. The northern 
part of this county is drained by creeks which flow through Amelia into 
the Appomattox river, and the southern part by the Nottoway and its tri- 
butaries. Population in 1810,9,770—1820,9,658—1830, 10,141. Notto- 
way belongs to the second judicial circuit, and 5th district. Tax paid in 
1832-3, $2,492 51— in 1833-4, on land, $1,270 54— 3,566 slaves, $891 50 
— 1,698 horses, $101 88—5 studs, $90 00—60 coaches, $151 50—20 
carryalls $20 00—84 gigs, $55 45. Total, $2,580 87. Expended in 
educating poor children in 1832, $247 70 — in 1833, $163 33. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Blacks and Whites, P. O. 60 
ms. S. W. of R.,and 182 ms. from W. 

Jeffries' Store, P. O. 197 ms. 
from W. and 75 ms. from R. 

Morganville, p. O. 56 ms. S. 
W. of R., and 178 from W. 

NOTTOWAY C. H. P. V. 67 
ms. W. of R. and 189 ms. from W. 
situated on Nottoway river, 1 mile N. 
of Hcndersonville, in the business 



part of the county. It contains a C. 
H., clerk's office, and a criminal and 
debtors jail, besides 15 dwelling 
houses, 1 mercantile store, 1 hotel, 
1 saddler, 1 tailor and 1 blacksmith's 
shop. In the vicinity on Nottoway 
river there is a manufiicturing flour 
mill. A daily stage passes this place 
on its route from Petersburg to N, C. 
'Population 70 persons; of whom I is 



EASTERN VllUaNlA— OKANCiE. 253 



au'attoruey an J 1 a regular pliysiciar.. 
Count tj Courts are lu-kl on the l.s7 
Thursday in every month: — Quarter- 
ly in. March, May, August and No- 
vember. 



Judge May holds liis Circuit Supe- 
rior Court of Law and Chancery ou 
the 10th of April and September. 



ORANGE. 

Or.wgk was created by act of Assembly in 1734, and formed out of a 
part of Spottsylvaniu Co. It is situated at the eastern base of the Blue 
llidire; bounded by Spotlsylvania, E. and S. E. ; Louisa, S. Albemarle, S. 
W. Blue Ridge, separating it from Rockingham, W. by Conway river, 
separating it from Madison, N. W. and by Rapid Ann river, separatuig it 
from Culpeper N. Its length diagonally from E. to W. is 56 ms. ; mean 
width 10 ms. ; and area 500 sq. ms. — Extending in lat. from 38° 07', to 38° 
25' N. and in long, from 0=^ 4:2', to 1" 45' W.'of Washington City. The 
northern part in its entire length, is bounded by, and drained into Rapid 
Ann, or S. W. branchof Rappahannock; its declivity is eastward. The S. 
E. angle gives source to the North Anna, and the S. W. to the extreme 
northern sources of the Rivanna river. 

The surface is hilly and the country is nearlj^ equally divided by the S. 
W. mountain. No countrj'- can excel it in the salubrity of its atmosphere, 
or the purity of its water, which in some instances is highly chalybeate, 
from the large masses of iron ore found imbedded in its soil. The quality 
of its soil is in general very fertile. In tJie upper or mountainous division, 
it is of a deep orange color, (whence its name) very productive and well 
adapted to the use of plaister and clover, the fertilizing effects of which, are 
visible upon many of the farms in this section. In the lower or S. E. di- 
vision, the soil, which is of a white, sandy character, is much less fertile 
and not so easily improved as the red mountain land. There is a vein of 
hmestono passing through this county, in a line nearly parallel with the 
mountains, which has in some places been opened and worked to advan- 
tage. Its mineral wealth is very great, a vein of copper ore, has been dis- 
covered in the Blue Ridge, not far rom Swift Run Gap, which is supposed 
to be valuable. Iron abounds in the vicinity of the mountains, and in the 
lower section of the county, not far from the Spottsylvania line, gold has 
been obtained, in considerable quantities. There are at present several 
mines in successful operations; the principal of which, are Grymes', the 
(h ecu wood, Coalter\s and Grasly\'i, at which latter place, the Virginia 
Mining Company, has been at considerable expense in erecting machinerj' 
for grinding the rock. 

Tliere is an Indian Mound in this county, on the lands of Mr. Jacob 
Walters, on the Rapid Ann river, near the boundary between Orange and 
Madison. This mound has been discovered, for nearly 120 years: but 
no description of it has hitherto been published. The bodies lie with their 
heads towards the N. The mound is probable between 12 and 15 ft. high- 
er than its base, and of very considerable length. The bodies lie in tiers, 
one above another, and about 2 ft. apart. It is supposed, that some Indian 
battle was fought here at some remote period; and there is every appear- 
ance of some of the bodies having been burned before interment, a.s thero 



254 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— ORANGE. 



are ffequontly found among the skeletons burned bones, and pieces of coal. 
The sight is'truly awful to one who is not in the habit of seeing the bones 
of human beings. The mound is about 30 ft. sq. and appears to contain 
between 3 and 400 of these skeletons. Pieces of scalping knives and toma- 
hawks, are frequently found near this spot of Indian interment. The staple 
productions of this county are wheat, rye, oats, corn, hemp, flax and tobacco. 
The wheat is mostly ground into flour at the mills Avithin the county, of 
which there are 8. 

Houses were erected in 1-833 for the reception of the poor, where tliey 
are supplied with all the comforts of life at the annual expense to the county 
of about $2,000. There is an institution in this county, Avhich was incor- 
porated some years since, under the name of the Orange Humane Socle I if, 
for the education of indigent youths; — it has a capital of upwards of $20,000, 
w^hich is loaned out to individuals upon good, real and personal security, 
the interest arising from which, is applied to the education of such youths 
of promise as are destitiUe. Orange is entitled to send 1 member, imder the 
new constitution to the assembly. Population in 1820, 12,913 — 1830, 
14,637. Taxes paid jn 1833, $3,790 15— in 1834, on lots, $16 98 — on 
land.$2,419 94— 3,708 slaves, $942 00— 3,138 horses, $188 28— 1 1 studs, 
$150 00 — 44 coaches, $91 45—24 carryalls, $24 00—35 gigs, $19 85. 
Total, $3,852 50. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $333 78 
— in 1833, no commisioner's report. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Barbouusville, p. v. at the 
north western foot of the S. W. moun- 
tain, 105 ms. S. W. of W, and 76 ms. 
N. W. of R., situated at the intersec- 
tion of the main stage road, leading 
from Washington to Milledgeville, 
Georgia, and the road from Swift Run 
Gap to Richmond. It contains 2 
mercantile stores, 2 houses of private 
entertainment, 2 tanyards, a saddk>r, 
tailor, wheelwriglit, blacksmith, boot 
and shoe maker, house of public wor- 
ship, free for all denominations, and 2 
Sunday schools. The situation is 
handsome, and well chosen for a vil- 
lage, 12 ms. S. W. of <)range C H. 
17 ms. from Charlottesville, and 6 
ms. from the elegant seat of the venera- 
ble ex-president M.\dison. A mail 
from the N., and 1 from the S. ar- 
rives here every day, and a horse 
mail twice a week. Population 50 
persons; of whom 1 is a physician. 

BuRTOXsviLLE, P. O. iu the eas- 
tern part of the county, 98 ms. N. W. 
of R. and lOS from W., situated on 
the S. bank of the Rapid Ann river, 



and immediately on the main road 
leading from Fredericksburg to Swift 
Run Gap, 50 ms. above the former, 
and 14 ms. below the latter, 16 ms. 
above Orange C. 11. and 6 ms. below 
Stannardsville, 10 ms. S. of Madison 
C. H. and 28 ms. S. of Culpeper C. 
H. at the intersection of the roads 
leading from the two last mentioned 
places to Charlottesville, and Swift 
Run ( iap, about i 1 ms. W. of Mr. 
Aladison's residence, and 25 N. of 
CharlottesviHc. J^urtonsville was 
formerly extensively known, on ac- 
count of its commercial business, but 
at present it has only a private resi- 
dence, and P. O. The soil of the sur- 
rounding country is good, and well 
adapted, to the culture of tobacco, In- 
dian corn, wheat. Rye, &c. and sus- 
ceptible of easy and high improve- 
ment by the use of clover, plaster, 
&c. The neighbourhood is Avell 
watered and healthy, with an indus- 
trious and thriving community. 

CuKs.M'T Hii-L, p. O. 85 ms. from 
R. and 87 n^.s. from \V. 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— 01LVNc;E, 



255 



Cavesvillk, p. O. situated 6 ms.|mail stages run daily through this 
above Barhoursville, on the road place liom Washington City to the 
from Swift Run Gap, to Richmond, VV. and one tri weekly, 4 horse coach 
82 ms. N. ^y. of R. and 111 ms. from here to Richmond Population 
from W. .303 persons ; of whom 4 arc attorneys 

GoRDOxsviLLK, P. O. 70 ms. N. and 3 regular physicians, 
^V. of R. and 102 ms. S. W. of VV., j Coitnlij Courts axe held on the Mh 
situated at the eastern foot of the S. .l/<^«^/«// in every month. Qvarlcrly 
W. mountain, and on the sources of, in March, Mai/, Avgusl and Nurcm- 
the North Anna river, about 50 ms. /icr. 

S. W. by W. of Fredericksburg, and: Jidgk Field holds liis Circuit 
10 ms. S. of Oraiijic C. H. It con- Superior Court of Law and Cliancery 
tains several dwelling houses, a mer-jon the 28/A of April and September. 
cantile store, tavern and smith's shop. Oraxgk Spuing, P. O. 104 ms. 

LocrsT Grove, P. O. 86 ms. from I from R. and 04 ms. from W. 
R. and 70 ms. S. W. of AV. i River Bank, or Ellisvillc P. O. 

Poplar Run, P. O. 83 ms. from 97 ms. from R. and 104 ms. S. W. of 
R., and 95 ms. S. W. of W. jW., situated at the junction of Hicko- 

ORANGE C. H. P. V. 80 ms.|ry creek whh the North Anna river, 
from R. and 92 ms. from W., situated: It contains 10 dwelling houses, 1 
about equi-dislant frour the N. E. audi mercantile store, I manufacturing flour 
N. W. angles of the county; 3 ms. jmill, 1 grist and saw mill, 1 tanyard, 
from the Rapid Ann river, and 8| 1 saddler, 1 tailor, 1 boot and shoe 
ms. from the North Anna, or north I maker, 1 blacksmith, 1 wheelwright, 
branch of the Pamunkey. This is!l cabinet maker, and 1 house carpen- 
onc of the most flourishing inland tor. This place is rapidly improving- 
villages below the mountains. It and bids fair to become a flourishing 
contains besides the ordinary county j village. Population about 100. 
buildings, 51 dwelling houses, mostly! Stanardsville, P. O. 92 ms. 
of brick, and built in a handsome from R. and 1 14 S. W. of W., situated 
style, 9 mercantile stores, 2 hou. es i f in the extreme western part of the Co. 
public worship, built of brick, (1 Epis- near the Blue Ridge, immediately on 
copalian, and 1 Methodist,) 1 female the Hillsborough road, leading from 
academy, 2 common schools and 2 Louisa C. H. to Harrisonburg, in a 
hotels. The mechanics are 1 hat healthy and pleasant neighborhood, 
manufacturer, 2 cabinet makers, 1 sil- It contains 21 dwelling hou.'^es, 5 
ver smith and jeweller, 3 blacksmiths, mercantile stores, 2 taverns, 1 tanyard, 
1 boot and shoe manufacturer, 1 tan- 1 saddler, 1 boot and shoe factory, 1 
yard, 1 house and sign painter, 2 tailor, 2 smith shops, 1 wheelwright, 
bricklayers, 3 house carpenters, 1 1 hatters shop, and 1 gun smith. Pop- 
wagon maker, 2 tailor.s, 1 coach ma- ulation, whites, 90 persons; of whom 
ker, 1 saddle and harness maker, 1 1 is a physician, — colored 52. Total, 
turner, and 1 printing office, from 1 42. 

which a weekly paper is issued. The Thorn e Hill, P. O. 92 ms. from 
facilities of stage accommodation in R., and 104 from W. 
this village are perhaps not to be sur- Verdierville, P. O. 91 ms. from 
passed in the state. Thirty mails are R., 81 nis. from W. 
received at the P. 0. in each week: 2 



256 EASTERN VIRC4INIA— PATRICK. 

PATRICK. 

Patrick county was established by the Legislature in 1791, and tal^en 
from Henry Co. Patrick is a border county, extending along the State line 
between Virginia and North Carolina, a distance of between 45 and 50 
miles. It is bounded on the N. by the Blue Ridge mountains, Avhich ia 
running W. approach so near the Carolina line, as to make the county very 
narrow at its western extremity. In fact the county formerly extended to 
the point where the mountain intersected the state line: but a considerable 
portion of its former western extremity has been added to the county of 
Grayson, for the convenience of the people residing therein. The con- 
tiguous counties on the N. and W. are the trans-montane counties of 
Floyd and Grayson ; on the E. it is bounded by the counties of Franklin 
and Henry. Its width varies from 30 to 80 miles, averaging something 
like 20 miles: and its area is 541 sq. ms. It extends in lat. from 36° 30' 
to 30° 47' N. and in long, from 2° 56' to 3° 40' W of W. C. 

The general face of the county is broken, but not as much so as that of 
most of the piedmont counties to the eastward of it. It is inter-sected 
however by several considerable mountains ranging from E. to \V. The 
principal of these is the Bull Motifitain, which unites with the main moun- 
tain at its western extremity, and runs eastwardly nearly to the eastern boun- 
dary of the county, dividing it (not very unequally) from W. to E. The 
Court House is situated on the S. side of this mountain at the distance of 
3 or 4 miles from its summit, which is as near as a suitable situation could 
be procured, on account of the spurs of the mountain. 

There is another mountain (Avhich may he considered a spur of the 
Blue Ridge) called Carter s mountain. It leaves the main mountain S. 
of the Bull mountain and ranges nearly parallel whh it, inclining a little 
more to the S. This mountain is not very long, extending in length not 
more than 8 or 10 miles. It lies very near the Courthouse, immediately S. 
of it, and terminates nearly opposite to it. The No Business mountain 
runs also parallel with the Bull mountain, on the S. side of it, but lies de- 
tached from the main mountain near the eastern end of the county. It is 
probably 7 or 8 miles long, and ranges pretty much in a line with Carter's 
mountain, there being however an interval of 4 or 5 miles between the 
eastern end of the one and the western end of the other. These are all 
the mountains which have acquired a distinct name and character; there 
are however a great number of spurs and knobs, which though nameles.'s, 
might w^ell deserve some distinguishing appellation. These generally 
extend out from the Blue Ridge in various directions and for various dis- 
tances. 

The principal water courses are the Dan, Smi/h''s river, the Mayos, and 
the Ararat, with their tributaries; — all which not only intersect the county, 
but have their sources in the mountains which form its northwestern border. 
The Dan rises in a plain on the fop oi the Blue Ridge, some 8 or 10 
miles from the declivity of the mountain, and running to the S. waters an 
extensive and level body of land called the meadows of Dan. It then 
breaks through the mountain, or rather tumbles down the mountain, and 
struggling on for 8 or 10 miles among .stupendous cliffs and precipices, 
reaches the level country, not far from the Slate line, and crosses into North 
Carolina. This stream crosses the county within about 10 miles of its 
Avcstcrn extrcmitv. 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— PATRICK. 257 

The Ararat also rises on tlie flat tabic laiicl on the top of tlie mounUiiii, 
not very remote from the head of the Dan, but takes a dillerenl direction. 
It runs to the S. W. and crossing the state line near the western extremity 
of the county, takes its way through the county of Surry, N. C. and empties 
into the Yadkin. 

Smilh'.s river has its source in the Blue Ridge to the N. of the Bull 
mountain, and traversing that section of the county lying between the Bull 
and Blue Ridge mountains from W. to E., crosses near the eastern ex- 
tremity of the Bull mountain into the county of Henry. 

There are two Maj/os, the South Mayo and North Mayo. The South 
Mayo rises in the main mountain, between the Bull mountain and Carter's 
mountain, and running southeastwardly between those two mountains, passes 
by the Court House, and crossing the south side of the country diagonally, 
enters North Carolina near the southeastern corner of the county. 

The North Mayo rises in the Bull mountain, on its S. side, and running 
eastwardly for some di.stance between that mountain and the No Busines.-s 
mountain, turns to the S. around the eastern extremity of the last named 
mountain, and enters North Carolina, first passing through a small corner 
of the county of Henry. — The two Mayos unite soon after leavmg Vir- 
ginia, and finally empty into the Dan. 

There are many creck.s tributary to the rivers already enumerated, a few 
of the principal of which shall be given. First those which empiy into 
Dan. This stream receives before it descends the mountain, Ivy Creek; 
as large as itself: after it descends the mountain, it receives a number of 
small streams not Avorthy of notice; — near where it crosses into North 
Carolina, it receives Archi/s creek from the S. W. and soon after crossing 
the lino it receives little Dan from the N. which also rises in Patrick. 
The Ararat receives after it descends the mountain. Doe run and John- 
son^s creek, from the N. and Clark^s creek from the S. Smith's river re- 
ceives Rork Castle creek. Widgeon creek, and several other smaller ones 
from the N. and Sycamore and Goblin Toicn creek, from the S. The 
South Mayo receives Spoon creek from the N., and Russelfs creek from the 
S., besides other smaller ones. The North Mayo receives Mill creek from 
the the S., and Roger^s creek from the N. 

There is a great diversity of soil in the county of Patrick. The numerous 
■water courses which intersect it in every direction afford more or less bottoni 
land of good quality, and a large portion of the upland is strong, though often 
steep and rocky. The soil and climate below the mountain are adapted to the 
culture of corn, wheat, rye, oats, tobacco and hemp. The land on the top of 
the mountain before alluded to, as being contiguous to the head of Dan, and 
designated as the meadows of Dan, is generally fertile, and while the climate 
is too cold for the successful culture of corn or tobacco, it is admirably adapted 
to the production of small grain and grass. This body of land is at present 
included in large surveys, made on speculation, which have not generally 
come into market; notwithstanding which it is rapidly seitHngand, without 
doubt, is destined to be the most flourishing part of the county. The ac- 
cess to it, though somewhat dilHcult on the S. and E., is entirely easy on 
the N. and W; as the descent of the mountain in those directions, is scarce- 
ly perceptible. The staple article of produce, on the south side of the 
Bull mountain is tobacco. On the N. side of that mountain there can 
scarcely be said to be a staple. The people live independently, mostly 
within "themselves and generally sell their surplus grain, pork, beef, brau- 



258 EASTERN VIRGINIA— PATRICK. 

dy, &c. The principal portion of the slave popuhition is on the south 
side of the county, which may in some measure account for the article pi 
tobacco henig more raised on that side than on the other. The mountani 
section of the county is beginning already in some degree to be. and 
is destined soon to be entirely, a grazing country: admirably calculat- 
ed for the raising of cattle, horses and hogs.~The tobacco raised m the 
county is mostly manufactured and sold in the southern and western 
States^. Immense quantities of this article are annually sent to the States 
of South Carolina, Georgia and Alabama, and sold at good prices for cash. 
Nearly every planter who raises tobacco to any extent is a manufacturer; 
but there are some who make a business of it, and purchase the article m 
the leaf from their neighbors, without prizing, at a very liberal price. 

Land is quite cheap compared with land of similar quality farther east- 
ward, and in consequence there has been for some years back an annual 
accession of population by immigration from the lower counties. This 
accession has however been more than counterbalanced in the last two or 
three years, by the prevalence of the Missouri mania, which has carried 
many of our best citizens to that State, and which still prevails though in 
an abated degree. 

The climate of this county is truly delightful. The bracing air of the 
mountain, combined with the mild breath of the south, renders the atmos- 
phere pure and at the same time soft, — and we do not believe there is a 
healthier climate in the world. For many years in some neighborhoods 
there was not a physician within twenty miles; (which our correspondent 
writes,) "you may consider either as the cause or effect of the health of my 
vicinity, which ever you like." There are no manufactories in the county, 
except those of tobacco, already referred to; and a forge oAvned by John 
A. Hairston, Esq. on Goblin Tow7t, creek, on the north side of the Bull 
mountain, near its eastern extremhy. This forge has been in operation 
for many years, and the enterprising proprietor, in conjunction with two 
connections, men of capital as Avell as himself, is now erecting a large fur- 
nace within a short distance of the forge, which will go into operation 
during the next fall or winter. The supply of ore is abundant, convenient, 
and ot the best quality. Iron ore abounds in other parts of the county 
also. 

"The scenery presented by the passage of Dan river down the mountain, 
and into the fiat country, is awful and sublime in the highest degree. The 
river rises in a plain, traverses it for 8 or 10 miles, till it reaches the de- 
clivity of the mountain, dashes down it by a rapid succession of perpen- 
dicular falls, and winds its solitary way, unapproached by any footstep 
save that of the mountain hunter, and hemmed in on every side by im- 
mense mountains, descending almost perpendicularly to the water edge for 
the distance of several miles, before its banks afford room for settlements. 
The Pinnacles of Dan are found in this interval. To approach them you 
must ascend the mountain at some conA'enient gap — upon reaching the top 
of the mountain, the country becomes comparatively level. The visiter 
goes along the top under the guidance of some mountaineer, who knows 
the locality of the pinnacles; he meets with no obstruction except fallen 
logs, and a most luxuriant growth of Aveeds, till suddenly he reaches the 
declivity of the mountain. An immense basin presents itself to his 
view, surrounded by lofty mountains, almost perpendicular, of Avhich 
the ridge on which he stands forms a boundary. The depth of the 
basin is beyond his view and appears to him to be incalculable. From 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— PATRICK. 2r,9 

the midst of the basin two pinnacles, in the shape of a sugar loaf, rise to a 
level with the surrounding mountains, and of course with the beholder. 
They appear to be masses of rock rudely piled on each other, with barely 
soil enough in the crevices to nourish a few bushes. There is no visible 
outlet to the basin, the narrow chasm through which the river makes its 
escape being out of view. If the visiter Avishes to ascend the main pin- 
riacle, (one being much larger than the other,) he descends from his sta- 
tion, the face of the mountain which is very steep, to a distance which he 
imagines sutficient to carry him down the highest mountain, — when he 
reaches a narrow ridge or pass-way not more than thirty feet Avide, con- 
necting at the distance of thirty or forty yards, the pinnacle to the main 
mountain, — and to his astonishment the river appears at an incalculable 
distance below him. The ascent of the pinnacle then commences and an 
arduous and somewhat perilous one it is. A narrow pathway winds up 
among the rocks, and in many places, the adventurous climber has to pull 
himself up a perpendicular ascent of five or six feet by the bushes. When 
he reaches the top, however, he is amply repaid for his labor in ascending. 
The prospect, though necessarily a limited one, is picturesque and sublime 
in a high degree. The view of the basin is then complete. The moun- 
tains surrounding it nearly of an uniform height; no outlet visible and the 
beholder perched upon the summit of an immense natural pyramid in the 
centre. The river is seen occasionally as it winds around the base of the 
pinnacle. It attempts to pass on the west side where the narrow ridge by 
which the visiter approaches arrests its course; it then winds entirely 
round the pinnacle close to its base until it comes to the opposite or southern 
side of the narrow ridge, passing between the two pinnacles: it then passes 
round the western and southern side of the smaller pinnacle, and makes 
its escape as it best can from its apparently hopeless imprisonment. The 
summit of the pinnacle is about twenty or thirty feet square, — and strange 
to relate, small bushes of the aspin grow upon it — which is found no where 
else growing wild in this section of country. The echo produced is 
somewhat remarkable. If a gun be fired oft' on the top of the pinnacle, 
you hear nothing for several seconds, when suddenly in the direction of the 
narrow pass through which the river flows, a rushing sound is heard, 
Avhich although not a correct echo, seems to be the sound of the report 
escaping through the pass."* 

"The other natural curiosity to which reference has been made is "the 
Bursted rock," which is not very far from the Pinnacles, and forms a part 
of the frowning and sublime scenery which overhangs the Dan, in its 
passage through the mountain. You approach it as you do the pinnacle 
along the level top of the mountain, till suddenly your course is arrested 
by a perpendicular descent of many hundred feet. The face of the pre- 
cipice is a smooth rock. Far below every thing appears in ruins rocks 
piled on rocks, — the timber swept from the earth; and every appearance 
indicates that a considerable portion of the mountain has been, by some 
great convulsion of nature, riven and torn from the rest and precipitated 
into the valley, or rather chasm below. 

♦ I have given you this imperfect description of this pinnacle of Dan from my own 
personal view and experience, having visited them on the 4th of July .some years 
ai^'o in company with several friends, and fired a salute from the top of the main 
pinnacle. I can therefore vouch for its fidelity, if I cannot recommend it for its 
clearness or beauty. 



'^60 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— PITTSYLVANIA. 



Population in 1810, 4,695,— 1820, 5,089—1830, 7,395. Patrick be- 
longs to the tenth judicial circuit and fifth district. Taxes paid in 1833, 
$816 40— in 1834 on land, $441 77— 980 slaves, $245 00— 1629 horses, 
$97 74_7 studs, $52 00—3 coaches, $8 80—3 carryalls, $3 00—2 gigs, 
$1 00. Total, $849 31. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, 
$281 92— in 1833, $203 89. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Arrarat, P. O. 282 ms. from R. 
and 358 S. W. by W. from W. 

Penn's, p. O. in the eastern part 
of the county, 17 miles N. E. of 
Ta7/lorsrille,22i ms. from R. and 
316 S. W. of W. 

TAYLORSVILLE, or Patrick 
C. H. P. O. — situated on Mayo river, 
90 ms. S. W. of Lynchburg, 35 S. 
of Christiansburg, 241 S. W. by W. 
of R. and 333. S. W. of W. in N. 
lat. 36" 38' and long. 3° 14' W. of 



W. C. It contains besides the usiial 
county buildings, 40 dwelling houses, 
2 mercantile stores, 3 taverns, a tan- 
yard, saddler, tailor, manufacturing 
flour mill, and 2 tobacco factories. 

County Cmirts are held on the 
Thursday after the 2d Monday in 
every month; — Quarterly in March, 
June, Avg-ust and November. 

Judge Saunders holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the 21 of Ajrril and Scj^timber. 



P ITTS'YL. V ANT A. 

Pittsylvania was established by the Legislature in 1767, and formed 
from a portion of Halifax. It is bounded on the N. by the Staunton river, 
Avhieh .separates it from Bedford and Campbell, — E. by Halifax, — S. by 
Caswell and Rockingham counties of North Carolina, — W. by Henry and 
Franklin. Its mean length is 35| miles, breadth 25^ ; audits area 891 
.sq. miles, It extends in lat. from 36° to 37° 05', and in long, from 2° 
12' to 2° 35' W. of W. C. This county is watered by Staunton river on 
the N., Dan on the S. and Banister in the centre. Much of the soil is ex- 
cellent, and large crops of tobacco are produced. Population in 1810, 
17,172; 1820,21,313; 1830,26,034. It belongs to the tenth judicial cir- 
cuit, and fifth district. Tax paid in 1833, $5089 04— in 1834 on lots, 
$167 21— on land, $2794 18—5905 slaves, $1476 25—5458 liorses, 
$327 48— 25 studs, $286 50— 53 coaches, $136 75— 35 carryalls $38 50 
—62 gigs, $38 95. Total, $5265 82. Expended in educating poor chil- 
dren in 18C2, $830 62, in 1833, $913 88. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES. &c. 



Berger's Store, P. O. 164 ms. S. 
W. by AV. of R. and 242 from W. 

Caeland's P. O. 179 ms. S. W. 
of R. and 271 from W^. 

Chesnut Grove, P O. in the 
southern part of the county, 180 ms. 
S. W. by W. of R. and 272 from W. 
situated 13 ms. S. of Compeli(ion,ih.c 



seat of justice. It contains 7 dwel- 
ling houses, a general mercantile 
store, and a grocery, Methodist house 
of worship, tobacco factory, tailor, 
boot and shoe maker, cabinet maker, 
and a blacksmith shop. The situa- 
tion is healthy, the soil of the sur- 
rounding country productive, and 



EASTERN VlRCaNlA— PI'JTSYLVANIA. 



2G1 



principal!}' adapted to the cultivation 
of tobacco, Indian corn, rye, oats, &:c. 
Population 30 persons, of whom 1 is 
a physician. 

Crafton, p. O. 156 ms. S. W. by 
W. of R.. and 236 S. S. W. of W. 
It contains 7 dwelling houses, 2 ta- 
verns, 2 blacksmith shops, a tailor, 
and boot and shoe maker. Popula- 
tion 28. 

Chalk Level, P. (). 109 ms. S. 
W. of R. and 247 from W. 

COMPETITION, P. V. and stat 
of justice, is situated near the centre 
of the county, on a branch of Banis- 
ter river, 1 67 ms. S. W by W. of R. 
and 259 S. W. of W. in lat. 36° 50' 
and long. 2° 20' W. of W. C. Be- 
sides the ordinary county buildings, 
it contains 125 dwelling houses, 3 
mercantile stores, 3 taverns, 1 house 
of public worship, (Methodist,) and 2 
common schools. The mechanics 
are, 1 watch maker and silversmith, 
1 tailor, 1 boot and shoe maker, 2 
blacksmiths, 1 wheelwright, 2 tan- 
ners, and several saddlers in the vi- 
cinity. This town is rapidly improv- 
ing. Several large and handsome 
brick buildings have lately been erec- 
ted. The situation is considered 
healthy. The land of the surround- 
ing country is fertile, producing well 
all the common staples — Indian corn, 
wheat, tobacco, &c. Population 200 
persons, of whom 3 are attorneys, 
and 2 practising physicians. 

Countii Courts <iro held on the 3^/ 
Monday in ev^ery month; Quarterly, 
in March, June, August and Novem- 
ber. 

JiTDOE Saunders holds his Cir- 
cuit Superior Court of I^aw and 
Chancery on the 20/A of May and 
October. 

Daxville, p. Y. 168 ms. from 
R. and 258 from W. Danville is a 
flourishing village, situated at the 
falls on the right bank of Dan river, 
near the S. border of the county, and 
about 5 ms. from tlie N. C. line. 
Dan river is navifrablc for battcaux 



40 ms. above this place. Danville 
was incorporated in pursuance of an 
act of the Legislature in 1831-2. 

It contains about 115 houses, 9 
miscellaneous stores, 3 groceries, 2 
commission houses, 2 tobacco ware- 
houses, 2 Branch Banks, (Virginia 
and Farmers,) 1 masonic hall, at pre- 
sent used as a place of public wor- 
ship by all denominations, 1 male 
and 1 female academy, in a flourish- 
ing condition, also a private seminary 
for young ladies, with upwards of 40 
pupils, — 1 well organized Sunday 
school, 1 apothecary shop, 2 tobacco 
factories, 1 oil mill, 2 manufacturing 
flour mills, 3 saw mills, 1 iron foun- 
drj', and 2 taverns. The mechanical 
pursuits are, 1 printing oflice, issuing 
a Aveekly paper, {Danville Reporter,) 

2 tanyards, 1 saddler, 2 boot and shoe 
factories, 4 tailors, 3 cabinet makers, 
1 chair maker, 2 milliners, 1 plough 
factory, and 3 blacksmiths. The 
prifieipal staples of this market are 
wheat and tobacco. Population sup- 
posed to be about 1000. It contains 

3 attorneys, and 7 regular physicians. 

Hill CJrove, P. O. 150 ms. S.W. 
by W. of R. and 228 from W,, situa- 
ted 4 ms. S. of Ward's bridge on the 
post road leading from Lynchburg Xo 
Danville, 30 ms. S. of the former, and 
40 N. of the latter place. This sec- 
tion of country is healthy, and Avell 
watered; the soil moderately fertile, 
well adapted to the culture of tobacco 
and grain. The growth of timber is 
generally oak, pine, hickory, «&c. 

Liberty Hall, P. O. 121 ms. S. 
W. by VV. of R. 

Moxroeton, p. O. on the right 
bank of Staunton river, in the ex- 
treme north western angle of the 
county, 161 ms. S. W. by W. of R. 
and 239 from W. This place some 
10 or 12 years ago, promised fair to 
become a town of some magnitude. 
It was laid off' in lots, and a consider- 
able number of them sold, several 
houses were built and occupied, and 
one or two stores established ; but by 



262 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— POWHATAN. 



some fatality, it had no sooner com- 
menced its career, than it begun to 
decline, and every one of the first 
settlers left the place, and most of the 
houses were thrown down; others 
moved off and rebuilt where they 
were of more service, and it now 
contains only 2 families, 1 tannery, 
and 1 manufacturing flour mill. 

Mount Airy, P. O. 164 ms. S. 
W. of R. and 242 from W., situated 
in the lower end of the county, 
in a healthy and flourishing neigh- 
borhood, about 5 miles from Halifax 
county line, at the intersection of the 
roads leading from Lynchburg to 
Danville and Milton, and the road 
leading from Charlotte to Franklin 
C H., 39 ms. from the former, 32 
from Danville, and 16 N. E. of Piit- 
sylvunia C. H. It has 1 mercantile 
store, several dwelling houses, a saw 
and grist mill, and 2 cotton machines 
are in the neighborhood, and 3 house.s 
of public worship, 1 Episcopalian, 1 
Methodist, and 1 Baptist. The face 
of the surrounding country is level, 
population not very dense, — the soil 
fertile, and well adapted to Indian 
corn, wheat, oats, and tobacco. 

Paytonsburg, p. O. distant 148 
ms. from R. and 248 from W., situa- 
ted on the road which leads from 
Danville to Richmond, 30 miles be- 
low the former. It contains several 
dwelling houses, 1 mercantile store, 
1 tavern, 1 tan yard, 1 saddler, 1 tai- 
lor, and a blacksmith shop, with seve- 
ral private families. The situation 
is eliirible and handsome. 



Robertson's Store, P.[0. 174 
ms. from R. and 252 S. W. of W. 

Smith's Store, P.O. 162 miles 
from R. and 244 S. W. of W. 

Spring Garden, P. O. 160 ms. 
from R. and 250 S. W by W. of W. 
It is situated 18 ms. N. of Danville, 
and 8 E. of Compcliiion. It contains 
a country store, house of entertain- 
ment, and a blacksmith shop. There 
is a Baptist house of worship in the 
neighborhood, called "Shockoe meet- 
ing house." Tbe soil in the imme- 
diate neighborhood is not very fer- 
tile. The productions are tobacco, 
wheat, corn, oats, &c.: that of the 
surrounding country is more so, be- 
ing- well adapted to wheat ; large 
crops of which will probably be 
raised as soon as the Roanoke im- 
provements, which are now in a state 
of forwardness, shall have been com- 
pleted. 

Sugar Tree, P. O. 20 ms. to the 
S. W. of Comjictiiion,, 187 ms. S.W. 
by W. of R. and 280 S. S. W. of W. 
It contains 4 mercantile stores, 1 
Methodist house of worship, 1 com- 
mon school, and 1 Sunday school, 1 
manufacturing flour mill, and 1 black- 
smith shop. The lands in this 
neighborhood are generally good, ex- 
cept immediately on the public road. 
There are several small streams 
which pass through this part of the 
county and empty into Dan river. 

Watkins' Store, P. O. in the S. 
W. ansrle of the county, 192 m.«. S. 
W. by'^W. of R. and 285 from W. 

Williams' Store, P. O. 152 m.s. 
from R. and 242 from W. 



PO^FIIATAN. 



Powhatan was created by the Legislature in 1777, and formed out of a 
part of Cumberland county. It is bounded on the N. by James river, 
which separates it from Goochland — on the E. by Chesterfield — on the S. 
b}'' the Appomattox river, which separates it from Amelia, and on the W. 
by Cumberland. It is siiuated about 37° 30' N. lat. and 1^ long. W. of 
W. C, extending about 30 miles in length, and avevagiiig about 14 in 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— POWHATAN. 263 

breadth, willi an area of 280 sq. ms, The face of tlie connty is level as a 
tcrriforj/ ; although undulatuig with small sinks and swells, or bottoms 
and hills running from the main ridge, which passes through the centre of 
the count V E. and W. to the James and Appomattox rivers. The James 
river washes the whole extent of the northern frontier from W. to E. and 
the Appomattox the southern frontier in like manner and direction. The 
creeks are numerous: those which empty into James river beginning near 
the Cumberland line, on the N. W and proceeding E. to the" Chesterfield 
line are, Miiddif creek, which rises in Cumberland, runs in a meandering 
direction N. and empties into James river between Cumberland and Pow- 
hatan. Oa this creek there is a manufacturing mill, called Muddy creek 
mills near Cartersville. Deep creek rises in Cumberland, runs N. E. re- 
ceiving the tributary waters of Little Deep creek, Indian Camp creek, 
Moore s creek, Mosbi/s and Horsepcn Branches, Sujanyi's creek, and Sallee's 
creek, all empty into James liver some 7 or 8 miles below the mouth of 
Muddy creek. On Sallee's creek are situated two grist mills. Jeferson 
creek rises in Powhatan, runs N. and empties into James river, at the town 
of Jefferson. Mohawk creek, rises in Powhatan runs N. and empties into 
James river, one mile above Michaux's Ferry; on this creek is situated one 
grist mill. Fine creek rises near Powhatan C. H. runs 8 or 10 miles N. 
E. and empties into James river. On this creek is situated the Fine creek 
manufncturing and grist mills. Jones^ creek rises in Powhatan, runs 12 
miles E. and N. E. and empties into James river. On this creek are situa- 
ted a manufacturing and grist mill, also another merchant mill runnino- 
2 pair of burrs, to which is connected a grist and saw mill, with 1 general 
store. On this creek are also located a cotton factory and 2 other grist 
mills, with 1 saw mill. Burners creek rises in Powhatan, runs 7 or 8 
miles N. E. and empties into James river, near the line between Chester- 
field and Powhatan. 

Those in the southern part of the county beginning at the lower end 
and proceeding upwards or westwards are — Swift creek, \\\w.\\ rises in 
Powhatan, runs S. E. through Chesterfield into Appomattox; on this 
creek in Powhatan are situated the Cedar Grove manufacturing and grist 
mills. Hurricane creek rises in Powhatan, runs S. and empties into 
Swift creek, 3 miles long. Skin Quarter creek rises in Powhatan, runs 8 
miles S. W. and empties into Appomattox. Buttericood crcc/t rises in Pow- 
hatan, runs 7 or 8 miles S. AV and empties into Appomattox; on this creek 
Haskins' mill, near Genito, is situated. Gcnito creek rises in Powhatan, 
runs S. W. and empties into Appomattox — 3 miles long. Lower Fighting 
creek rises near Rocky Oak meeting house, runs S. W. receiving Scott'' s 
creek and Hobson''s creek, unites with Upper Fighting creek, and empties 
into Appomattox. Upper Fighting creek rises near the Buckingham road, 
runs S. E. receiving Tucker^s and Blunfs creeks, unites with Lower 
Fighting creek, and empties into Appomattox. Between the mouth of 
this creek and the Cumberland line, there are many branches, and small 
creeks running through almost every plantation. 

There are two principal roads running through the countv — the Buck- 
ingham road, on the high ridge between the two rivers, and the Manakin 
Town road, between the Buckingham road and James river, together with 
numerous cross roads. 

The soil of Powhatan is various both in quality and appearance. The 
old farms have been much cxhaused by lung and injudicious cultivation, 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— POWHATAN, 



but a revival of a geological spirit, with the use of clover and plaster, 
seems to authorise the prediction that in twenty years the land of this coun- 
ty will again become fertile. The James and Appomattox rivers bounding 
two sides of the county at full length, aflbrd great quanties of rich low 
grounds, and thousands of little branches and creeks intersecting and 
variegating every portion of the county, render the soil quite productive 
generally. The principal crops are corn, oats, wheat and tobacco. The 
last two are the staple products. 

There arc some coal mines in the lower end of this county. A pit has 
been for several years regularly and profitably managed by the judicious 
owner, Capt. Win. Finney, in Avhose immediate neighborhood another 
vein of coal has been discovered on the land of Mr Edward Scott. Indi- 
cations of coal have also been discovered on the surface of the earth in 
many places in the lower end of the county. 

There are ten male schools now in opei"ation in this county, under the 
superintendence of competent teachers for the instruction of youth in the 
ordinary branches of education. There are also two female schools under 
the management of judicious and able teachers. 

The Baptists, Methodists and Presbyterians, arc the only regularly formed 
churches There are some Episcopalians, but no officiating minister of 
that denomination. The old Episcopal churches, Peterville and Manakin 
Town, have become free for the use of all denominations. There is also 
a church recently established in the lower end of the county called the 
Reformed Baptist, now composed of 12 members. There are also many 
Unitarians in the county, but no x-stablished church of that faith. 

Powhatan belongs to the seventh judicial circuit and fourth district. 
Population in 1820, 8,292 — 1830, 8,517 persons, of whom more than half 
were slav^es and free blacks. Tax paid in 1833, $2752 4G — in 1834 on 
lots, S45 58— on land, $1512 58—3049 slaves, $762 25—1791 horses, 
8107 4G— 3 stud.s, $100 00—86 coaches, $198 75—16 carryalls, $16 00 
—89 gigs, $50 25. Total, $2792 87. Expended in educating poor chil- 
dren in 1832, $106 84— in 1833, $45 36. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Ballsvillb:, p. O. 48 ms. from R. 
and 147 from W. 

Flat Rock, P. O. in the eastern 
part of the county, 25 ms. W. of R. 
and 147 from W. 

Gemto, p. V. 29 miles S. W. by 
W. from R. and 151 from W., situa- 
ted on the E. or left side of the Ap- 
pomattox river, in the southeastern 
part of the county, and 36 ms. from 
Petersburg. It contains 6 dwelling 
houses, I mercantile store, a tavern, 
blacksmith, and a tailor's shop. A 
permanent bridge is thrown across 
the Appomattox at this place, at 
which is situated a large manufactu-l 



ring flour mill. Population 25 per- 
sons; of whom 1 is a physician. 

Jefferson, P. V. is pleasantly 
situated on the south bank of James 
river, 35 ms. above R. 144 from W. 
and 7 ms. from the county seat. It 
has a direct water communication 
with Richmond, being situated only 
12 ms. above the head of the .Tames 
river canal. The elevation of this 
place affords the most beautiful pros- 
pect of the surrounding country, of 
any town or village on James river. 
From a farm half a mile below and 
in sight of Jefferson, may be seen the 
farms and residences of 8 wealthy 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— PRINCE EDWARD. 



265 



&vtd extensive formers iii the county 
of Goochland, besides some four or 
five in the county of Powhatan, and 
from the same place there is a desi- 
rable prospect of James river, both 
up ami down. It is a place of con- 
siderable trade for its size. The ex- 
ports are principally wheat and to- 
bacco. They ship annually aboat 
40,000 bush«ls of wheat, and 250 
hhds. of tobacco. It contains besides 
a ptiblic ferry, 2 stores, 1 rriarnifactur- 
ing mill, 1 tailor shop, 2 shoemakers, 
a!nd 1 saddlei^ and harness maker 
The mail from Richmond arrives at 
this place 3 times a week. It has 
besides hotrses of deposite, 8 dwel- 
ling houses; with a white population 
of 50 — and a population of 70 color- 
ed persons. 

SCOTTSVILLE, P. V. and seat 
of justice, 32 ms. W. of R. and 139 S. 
S. W. of W- in lat. 37°32' and long. 0^ 
56' W. of W. C. This village con- 
tains, besides the Court House, Clerk's 
office and jail, 20 dwelling houses, 3 
miscellaneous stores, a tanyard, sad- 
dler, boot and shoe m^ker, 2 tailors, 1 
felu'cksmith shop, and 3 taverns. 



County Courts are held on the Zd 
Monday in every month; — Quarterly 
in March, May, August and Nov'r. 

JuDOfi Clopton holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chan- 
cery on the 8th April and 1st Octo- 
ber 

SmJthsville, P. V. 38 ms. W. of 
R. and 132 from W., situated between 
two creeks — Deep creek on the W. 
and Bailee's creek on the E. It con- 
tains several dwelling houses, a 
house of public worship, (Presbyte- 
rian,) called "-Mount CannelJ^ 1 
country store, 1 house of entertain- 
ment, a plough maker, and black- 
smith shop; in the vicinity and on 
Sal'^^e's creek, there is located a 
mailtifacUtring flour mill, the pro- 
prietors of which have it in contem- 
platioti to extend the navigation of 
the creek to James river. There are 
several benevolent societies organized 
m this vicinity. Population 30. 

Sui^lktt' 8 Tavern, P. O. in the 
eastern part of the county, 23 ms. S, 
W. of R. and H5 from W. 



PRINCE EDWARD. 

Privce Edward was created by the legislature in 1753, and was form- 
ed out of a portion of Amelia Co. It is bounded S. E. by Lunenburg, S. 
and S. W. by Charlotte, W. by Campbell, N. W. and N. by Buckingham, 
N. E. by Cumberland and Amelia, and E. by Nottoway. Its length from 
E. to W. is 35 ms.; mean breadth 12 ms. and area 420 sq. ms.— Its mean 
Sat. is 37° 12', and long, from W. C. 1° 30' W. The Appomattox river, 
separates this county from Buckingham and Cumberland. 

This county is well watered by numerous creeks, emptying into the Ap- 
pomattox ri\*eT. They come in "the following order, viz : Vaughan's, and 
Harris' creeks: Btifaloe — This creek was examined a few years ago, and it 
was coutemplatod to make it navigable for boats, in conjunction with the ht- 
tle Roanoke, in Charlotte. The Engineer made an unfavorable report. 
Briery Bush and Sanly creeks. These creeks all run nearly parallel. 
Briery is a sluggish stream, Buffaloe and Bush swift. The Appomattox 
is a fine stream, narrow but very deep. 

The soil in this county is very good. The gray land predommates^ It 
is of a sandy texture, and well adapted to corn and tobacco. Much of the 
land presents the same appearance as the stale does generally. It has been 
34 



266 EASTERN VIRGINIA— PRINCE EDWARD. 

exhausted by continual culture, without any regard to system. A large 
quantity of it is unenclosed. The pine in this county, as in most parts of the 
state, takes possession of the worn out land, and renders much aid in restor- 
ing the lands. 

''Prince Edward is rich in minerals and fosils. In the last few years 
there have been many developements of its mineral weahh. Numerous 
beds of calcarious rock or marl, have been discovered; and from indications, 
it is probable that it may be found in large quantities. 

Near Farmville, and in other parts of the county there are very strong 
indications, that coal of the finest quality may be obtained. It may be found 
by digging a little Avay, and it is to be regretted, that regular attempts have 
not been made to explore these mines of wealth. If the navigation of the 
Appomattox is improved, at no distant day, coal may be a source ot much 
wealth to this county. 

Copper ore has been found in various parts of the county very pure. 
There are some indications of gold, but not very strong. 

There is one solitary mountain in this county, "Leigh's mountain." It 
is an axact cone, and adds something to the scenery. It is between Bush 
and Sandy rivers. 

Farmville, is a town of considerable commercial importance. It is situated 
at the head of batteaux navigation on the Appomattox; however, boats can 
get up much higher. This is the fourth tobacco market in Virginia, and 
in point of the quality of its tobaacco, it is the first. More than half a mil- 
lion of dollars;. are annually paid here for tobacco. The trade of Farmville 
is drawn trom Halifax, Lunenburg, Charlotte, Nottovv-ay and a part of Camp- 
bell. 

Hampden Si/dney College was founded in 1774 for the purpose of cher- 
ishing those ideas of civil and religious liberty which were beginning at 
that time to be diffused. It was chartered in 1783 and rcc_eived its present 
name from tJiose two martyrs to liberty, J. Hampden and A. Sydney. It 
was established and has ever been supported by the private munificence of 
public spirited individuals. It has an elevated and pleasant situation, 1 
mile from the C. H. and 80 ms. S. W. of Richmond. The healthiness of 
its situation is well known, there having been but one death among the stu- 
dents since its foundation. The annual income of the funds of the Institu- 
tion has not, until recently exceeded 6G00: but within the last 5 years, it 
has received a contribution of $30,000, of which $20,000 have been set 
apart for a permanent fund. The only assistance it has ever received from 
the state was 2 small tracts of escheated lands, which were of very little va- 
lue. Although the Institution has had to encounter many difficulties for 
want of funds, yet it ha.s generally been in successful operation and has ed- 
ucated upwards of 2,000 young men; many of whom have been of eminent 
usefulness, and some of great abilities. More instructors have emanated 
from this Institution than from any other in the southern country. Connect- 
ed with the College is a Literary and Philosophical Society, and an Insti- 
tute of Education. There are also several societies among the students, 
which are of great aisistance to them in the prosecution of their studies. 
The legislative government of the College is vested in 27 trustees who fill 
up vacancies in their own body. 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— PRINCE EDWARD. 267 



The Presidents of Hampden Sidney have been 

Rev. S. S. Smith, Ironi 1774 to 1779 
Rev. J. B. Smith, from 1779, to 1789 
Pros. pro. tem. 1789, to 1797. 



Rev. A. Alexander, D. D. 1777, to 1 806. 
Rev. M. Hoge, D. D. 1807, to 1820. 
.T, P. CushinV A. M. 1821. 



Besides the President there are Professorship.s of Chemistry, Natural 
Philosophy, Mathematics, and Language. The number of students lor the 
last 15 years has averaged about 100. The number of matriculates this 
year is 69. It has a valuable and extensive Chemical and Philosophical 
Apparatus and a library of about 5,000 vols. 

The buildings connected with College are the College edifice, 190 fl. by 
50, 4 stories high and containing 48 rooms for student's, a chape , a library 
and 3 other public rooms ; a President's house and a stcAvard's establish- 
ment — all of brick, and 2 other houses for Professors. Annual expenses — 
for tuition, board, room rent, washing, $150. 

Commencement is on the 4th Wednesday'- in September. Vacations — 
Lst. the month of October ; 2d. the month of Ma}'. 

The Union Theological Seminary is located in Prince Edward Co. in 
the vicinity of the C. H. and near Hampden Sydney College. The Institu- 
tion had its origin in efforts made by the presbytery of Hanover, and the 
Synod of Virginia, as early as 1812, "to give to their candidates for the min- 
istry a more complete theological education. It did not however go into 
operation in a regular form until the year 1824. 

The Seminary is under the controul of a board of 24 directors chosen 
once in 4 years by the Synods of Virginia and North Carolina. 

Its funds are derived from the free contribution of Presbyterians in va- 
rious parts of the country, and amount to nearh"- enough to provide for the 
support of 3 Professor.s. 

Its buildings are of brick and coni-i.'^t of 2 Professor's dwellings, and a 
central edifice, 196 ft. long and 4 stories high, containing a chapel, library, 
lecture rooms, museum, depository, dining hall, rooms for 100 students, and 
for the family of a steward. The library is small, containing only 3,000 
vols, but is highly valuable from the care employed in its selection. 

Its officers are the Professors of the Institution, namely, those of Chris- 
tian Theology, of Ecclesiastical History and Polity, of Oriental Literature 
and such others as may be chosen. These constitute a faculty for internal 
government, of which the Professor of Christian Theology is ex-officio 
chairman. 

Its students are only those who design to become ministers of the gospel. 
Any such person can become a member of the Institution, who is a mem- 
ber of any Christian church, who sustains before the faculty a satisfactory 
examination on personal experience of religion, vv-ho has graduated at some 
reputable College, or gained in some other way a liberal education. 

The course of study in the Institution embraces the Hebrew and Chal- 
dee languages, Jewish Archiology, Sacred Geography, Biblical Criticism, 
Biblical Literature, Biblical Interpretation, Theory and Practice, Biblical 
History, Ecclesiastical History and Polity, Church Government, Natural 
Theology, Evidences of Revelation, Canon Christian Theology, Confes- 
sion of Faith, Pastoral Theology, and the Composition and Delivery of Ser- 
mons. 



268 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— PRINCE EDWARD. 



Since 1824, J 27 stnden.ts have belonged to the Institution, and its chairs 
have been filled as follows:— j-j,oo. 

Theology— io\m H. Rice, D. D. inaugurated 1824,— died 183L 

Oriental Li/— Hiram P. Goodrich, inaugurated 1828. 

Theology— -George A. Baxter, inaug. 1832. 

Church Hisforj/ — Vacant. 

Assistant — Eli'sha Ballantinc. i, - r j 

The people of this county are genjexally intelligent and vv.ell infoj-med. 
The Presbyterian denoxiiination are more numerous than in any other Co. 
in the state. Population in 1820, 12,58T~in 1830, 14,109, or 55 to the 
sq. m. giving an increase of 1,530 in 10 yrs; of the last amount there were 
whites, 5,514, and 8,593 blacks, giving an increase of 3,079 over the free popu- 
lation: many of which are free blacks and mulatt&es. The free negroes in this 
county are more numerous than in any other county in the state. Prince 
Edward belongs to the 9th judicial ctrcui^, and fifth district. Tax paid in 
1833, $3,844 73~in 1834, on lots, $118 28— land, 1,751 76—4831 slaves, 
m 207 75—2,685 horses, $161 10—6 studs, $102 00—122 coaches, 
j|336 60—44 carryalls, $49 40—144 gigs, $88 00. Total, $3,814 89. 
Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $126 45— in 1833, $207 33. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



BuRKEsviLLE, P. O. in the south- 
ern part of the county, 66 ms. S. W. 
by W. of R, and 188 from W. 

Carter's Store, P. O. in the S. 
W. part of the county, 81 ms. S. W. 
by W. of R. and 172 ms. from W. 

Farmviele, p. V. 68 ms. S. W. 
by W. of R. and 159 from W., situ- 
ated on the N. border of the county, 
near the head of batteaux navigation, 
and on the S. side of Appomattox ri- 
ver. This village was mcorporated 
in 1832, with 7 trustees, having pow- 
er to tax, &c. It contains 2 tobacco 
virarehouses, at which are inspected 
annually from 4,000 to 4,500 hogs- 
heads; this inspection affords a larger 
proportion of fine French tobacco, 
than any other in the state. There 
are 5 tobacco factories, giving em- 
ployment to 250 hands, 10 mercantile 
stores, 2 houses of public worfehip, ( 1 
Presbyterian and 1 Methodist,) 2 ta- 
verns, i printing office, 1 female 
school, i cabinet maker, 2 smith shops, 
1 tailor, 1 wheelwright, 1 boot and 
phoe factory, 1 saddler, 1 tan yard, 2 
confectioners, and 2 milliners and 
mantua makers. The navigation of 
the river from this place to Petersburg 



is good at all seasons of the year, and 
gives employment to about 40 bat- 
teaux, with 3 men in each, carrying 
from 5 to 7 tons. Farmville is grow- 
ing in importance and trade. It is at 
the present time one of the finest towns 
in proportion to its size and commerce 
in Virginia. Population 800 persons; 
of whom 2 are physicians. 

Hermitage, P". O. 91 ms. S. W, 
by W. of R. and 182 ms. from W., 
situated in the western part of the Co, 
on a considerable eminence which 
commands a beautiful view, at the iji^ 
tersection of the roads leading from 
Charlottesville, to the S. and from 
Petersburg to Lynchburg. It hap 
Vaughan's creek on the B., and a mill 
creek on the N. side. It contains 
several dwelling houses, and 1 mer^s 
cantile store, <fcc. The lands in the 
neighborhood, are of a light, gray, 
sandy soil, producing wheat, corn, 
oats and tobacco tolerable? well. 

Jamestown, P. V. 60 ms. S. W, 
by W. of R. and 167 from W., situ- 
ated in the N. E. angle of the county 
on the S. side of Appomattox river, 8 
ms. below Farmville, 3 ms. below the 
dividing line of Prince Edward and 



EASTERN VIRGINIA—PRINCE GEORGE 



269 



Amelia, and GO ms. from Pctevsburo^ 
aud Lynchburg;. This vilkge was 
laid oit in 1796 into 8 squares, eacli 
cautaining 4^ acre lots. The mer- 
cantile business of this place was at 
one time very flourishing; the inspec- 
tion of tobacco was carried 'Ou te a 
limited extent for severai years, but 
has been discontinued; sjiice wliich 
time the village has ceased to flourish. 
It contains at this time, several dwel- 
ling houses, I house of public wor- 
ship, free for all denominations, 2 mis- 
cellaneous stof.es, and 1 house of en- 
tertainment. The surrounding coun- 
try, is healthy,-^the laud much bro- 
ken, and the soil pecutiarly adapted 
to the growth of tine tobacco, which 
with wheat constitutes the staple. 

Marble Hill, P. O. 83ms. S. W. 
by W. of R. and 174 ms. from W. 

Merriman's Shop, P. O. 94 
ms. from R. and 185 ms. from W. 

Moor's Orpinarv, 90 ms. S. W. 
by W. of R. and 181 ms. from W. 

PRINCE EDWARD C. H. P. 
V. 75 ms. S. W. by W. oi' R. and 166 
ms. from W. This village contains 
21 dwelling houses, besides the usual 
county buildings, and about the same 
Rumber of public and private offices; 
a large and handsome Presbyterian 
church built ot brick, Wautifully situ- 
ated about a quarter of a mile from the 
village, 1 tanyard, 1 coach manufac- 
t3Ty, and various othm* mechanics. 
There are 2 flourishing academies ; 
the female seminary, deserves the 
high reputation which it enjoys, — 
The present number of pupils is about 
80. The cour.se of studies, requires 



,3 years to complete it ; in addition to 
the instruction adorded by the 3 prin- 
cipals and tlieir 5 assistants, the pu- 
pils have the advantage of instruction 
in science, a^id thc.languages from the 
Professors of Hampden Sydney Col- 
lege, — the other institution alUded to 
is for males, and prepai^ec pupils to 
enter the Colleges with credit : the 
annual number is between 40 and 50. 

Count ji Courts ^xc held on the Zrd 
Monday inevepy month; — Quarterly 
ly in March, May, August and No- 
vember, 

Jui>GE LejcM holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the t^f/i of April and Septem' 
her. 

Prospect, P. O. 80 ms. S. S. W. 
of R. and 171 ms. from W. 

Saxry River Church, P. O. in 
the S. E. part of the county, 79 ms. 
S. W. by W. of R. and 170 ms. from 
VV. This place takes its name from 
a small -tributary of the Appomattox, 
It Avas built in Ihe year 1768 by the 
church of England. Since the revo- 
lutioti, it has beejj kept up by the citi^ 
zens of the neighborhood of all de- 
nominations. In the immediate vi' 
cinity of the church, there is a house 
of entertainment, a mercantile store, 
several mechanics, and 1 physician. 
The land of the surrounding country 
is generally good ; the principal pro- 
duct is tobacco; and the neighborhood 
is wealthy. 

Walker's Chitrch, P. O. in the 
southern part of the county, 88 ms. 
S. W, hy W. of R. and 177 from W. 



PRINCE GEORGE. 



Prixce George was created by the Legislature in 1702, and formed 
from a part of Charles City Co. It is bounded on the N. by the Appomattox 
which separates it from Chesterfield, and James river which separates it 
from Charles City, — E. by Surry, — S. by Sussex, — and W. by Dinwiddie. 
Its length from E. to W. is 21 ms. breadth 12, and area 312 sq. miles. It 
extends in lat. from 37° to 37° 15' N. and in long, from 0° 5' E. of W. C. 



970 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— PRINCE GEORGE. 



to 0° 25' W. of "W. C. Very little of this county sloyes towards its 
border near the Appomattox and James, by far the greater portion slopes 
S. E. towards Blackwater river, tiie sources of which lie in this county. 
Population in 18-20, 8,030— in 1830, 8,367. This county belongs to the 
2nd judicial circuit, and 1st di.slrict. Tax paid in 1833, 61,868 85 — 
in 1834, on lots, $80 79— on land, $916 53—2,478 slaves, §619 50— 
1,177 horses, $70 74—3 studs, $46 00—49 coaches, $133 80-20 carry- 
alls, $20 00—96 gigs, 854 15— Total, $1,941 49. Expended in educat- 
ing poor children in 1832, $137 SO— in 1833, $205 16. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 

CITY POINT, Port nnd Posti reflect credit, on the enterprize of Vir 



Village, on the right shore cl 
James river, at the junction of the 
James and Appomattox, in the N. W. 
part of the county, 12 ms. below Pe- 
tersburg, 34 ms. S. E. oi R. and 156 
ms. from W. City Point of itself, is 
a very inconsiderable village, being a 
place of no trade, except in a small 
retail way. It is however a conside- 
rable port, as an appendage of the 
towns of Petersburg and Richmond. 
At City Point there are 4 or 5 



ginia capitalists and insure to the Old 
Dominion that commercial impor- 
tance to which she is so justly entit- 
led, and which will be so beneficial to 
every class of the community; but 
more especially to the farmers, whose 
products, will meet a ready sale, at 
such prices, as cannot fail to reward 
their industry. City Point, contains 
about 25 houses, 3 taverns, 3 groce^ 
^ries, a school and hospital. 

Prince George is famed for the 



ivharves, projecting a short distance; manufiicture of her hollow icare, i. e. 
into the river, within 30 yards of flour barrels,&c , her marshes for soras 
which is a sufficient depth of water 



to swim the largest ship that ever 
floated. "Not only is a large foreign 



and wild ducks, 6i.c. and her rivers, 
creeks and mill ponds for fine chub, 
perch, sturgeon, rock fish, shad, &:c. 



shipping business done here, but the Population between 90 and 100 per 
white sails of domestic commerce, I sons; of whom 1 is a physician. 
daily gladden the eye, as it pas.sesj PRINCE GEORGEC. H. is sit- 
and repasses this port, freighted in itsjuated near the centre of the county. 
progress upwards with the wealth j County Courts are held on the 9.(1 



and productions, and exports of every 
clime, while its return carries to eve- 
ry port of our happy Union, the pro- 
duce of our soil and of our mines.' 
Exclusive of the ordinary shipping, 
there are steam, freight, tow and pas- 
sagcboats, which make this a stopping 
place in their passage up and dowr 



Tuesday in every month : — Quarter- 
ly in March, May, August and No- 
vember. 

JuDGF. May, holds his Circuit Su- 
perior Court of Law and Chancery 
on the 25 .'.4 of May and October. 

Templetox, p." O. 36 ms. S. W. 
.of R. and 15S ms. from Vv""., situated 



the river. In short City Point, 'immediately, on the post road, which 
though small in itself is a considera-| leads from Petersburg, to Jerusalem, 
ble out port to the City of Richmond,^ in Southampton Co. 15 ms. from the 
and the town of Petersburg, and when former, and 35 ms. from the latter, 
the Petersburg Rail road, and thej There is an ordinary kept here which 
James and Kanawha improvement' h.is been in existence for 30 years. 
shall be in full operation, it is morel The situation is high and salubrious, 
than probable that this little village, remote from any ^vater course, or 
will present an appearance that will mav.shy laiid. 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— PRINCESS ANNE. 
PRINCESS AKNE. 



271 



P!UNci;.-:s Anne wiiscreated hy the legislature in IGOI.and formed from 
a portion of lowiT Norfolk county. It i.s bounded on the N. hj- the Chcs- 
ajieak, E. by the Atlantic, S. by Currituck Co. N. Carolina, and W. by 
Norfolk county. Its length from S. to N. is 30 in.s. ; mean breadth 12, and 
area 3G0 .scjuare miles. The parallel of N. lat. 36*^ 45' and long. 1^ E. oi 
W. C intersect near the centre of the county. The northern part of this 
county, slopes N. and pours its waters into Lyn Haven bay, — the Avesterii 
part, into the eastern branch of Elizaheth river, — the southern part into 
Back Bay, and Currituck Sound. 

Population in 1810, 9,498,-1820, 8,730— in 1830,9,102. This coun- 
ty belongs to the first judicial circuit and first district. Tax paid in 1833, 
$^1846 85— in 1834 on lots, $16 63— on land, $1 1 15 45—1744 slaves, 
$436 00— 1757 horses, $105 42— 6 studs, $83 00— 17 coaches, $38 25— 
16 carryalls, S17 25—154 gigs, $95 50. Tot;-.!, $1907 50. Expende4 
in educating poor children in 1832, $267 94 — in 1833, $115 03. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Kempsville, p. v. 10 ms. S. E. 
by E. of Norfolk. 124 from R. and 
227 from W. situated on the eastern 
branch of Elizabeth river, at the head 
of tide water. It contains 27 dwel- 
ling houses, 1 miscellaneous store, 
and several groceries, 1 Baptist house 
of worship, and 1 common school. 
The mechanics are a tanner and cur- 
rier, several carpenters, wheelwrights, 
blacksmiths, 6cc. Large quantities 
of lumber are sent in rafts and light- 
ers, from this place to Norfolk ; also 
much navy-timber, staves, wood, &;c. 
Population 200 persons; of whom 3 
are physicians. 

London Bridgk, P. O. in the 
northeastern part of the county, 15 
ms. N. E. of Norfolk, 8 S. VV. of 
Cape Henry, 130 from R. and 233 
from W. 



PRINCESS ANNE C. H. P. V, 
137 ms. from R. and 240 from W. in 

lat. 36° 44, N. and long 0° 57' E. of 
W. C. It contains, besides the usual 
county buildings, 17 dwelling houses, 
2 Methodist houses of public wor- 
ship, 2 elementary schools, 1 miscel- 
laneous store, several carpenters, and 
various other mechanics. The prin- 
cipal pursuit of the inhabitants is 
farming. Population 150 persons; 
of whom I is an attorney, and 2 arc 
physicians. 

Count J/ Courts are held on the 
1a'/ Monday in every month. Quar- 
le.rly in March, June, August and 
November. 

Judge Baker holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
|ry on the 25^A Mau and 22rf Scp- 
\tcmbcr. 



PltI3,X'E WILLIAM. 

Printe William was established by the Legislature in 1730, and 
formed from a portion of Stafford and King George counties. It is bound- 
ed N. and N. E. by Bull Run, and Occoquan river, which separate it from 
Loudovm and Fairfax, — E. by the Potomac, separating it from Charles 
county Maryland, — S. by Stafford, — S. W. and W. by Fauquier. Its mean 
length is 30| miles, mean breadth 12; and its area 370 square miles. It 



272 EASTERN VIUGINIA— PRINCE WILLIAM. 

extends in lat. from 38° 30' to 38° 55' N. and in long, frotti 0° 15' to 0^ 
45' W. of W. C. 

Occoqnaii rieef tises in Loudoun, Fairfox, and Fauquier counties; 
traverses and drains the upper part of Prince William. It is an impo?- 
tant tributary of the Potomac, and falls into that river 25 ms. below W. C. 
and nearly opposite to Indian Point. Its principal branches are Bull Run, 
Broad Run and Cedar Run. Bull Run from its source to its mouth, is 
the divitiing line between the counties of Fairfax and Prince William. It 
joins the Occoquan about 7 miles above the town of Occoquan, and H 
miles from the Potomac river. Broad Ruyi has its source in Fauquier 
coumy, arid after passing through the chain of the Bull Run mountain, at 
the pass of Thoroughfare, and by the to'wn of Buckland, joins the Cedar 
Run about a mile below BrentSville, the coxint-y town of Prince William. 
Cedar Run rises in Fauquier county, and passing near Warrenton, 
joiris Broad Run near Brentsville. These streams, and mdeed tnany of 
their branches, afford tine seats for mandfacturing establishments. At the 
junction of Broad and Cedar, the river receives the name of Occoquan. 
Its general direction towards the Potomac is S. E. — and its length about 
25 ms. At 1 8 rris. from the junction it meets, the tides at the town of Oc- 
coquan. Here it reaches the hills, which are the boundary of the Poto- 
mac valley, and down thern the river is precipitated about 72 feet, in the 
distance of or* > and a half miles. In these hills is the chain of I'ocliS 
which crosses all the rivers of Lower Virginia at- the head of tide water. 
The action of the water in the course of ages, has washed fh6 earth from 
the channel, and the rocks lie in its bed in every rude variety of position. 
The banks of the river here present every where jutting rOcks, and some- 
times great precipices. The pine finds sustenance among the crevices 
and gives a relief and a grace to scener}^ that would otherwise be savage. 
Immediately below the to\tn of Occoquan the banks subside into a plain; 
and at two miles, the ancient town of Colchester is passed. Five miles 
below Colchester a junction is effected with the Potomac, between High 
and Freestone Points. At its mouth the Occoquan is five miles wide; at 
the head of the tide, it is aboul 75 yards; hefe however it is hemmed in 
by the hills, and as tl>e volume of its waters is very great, in floods it is 
very deep, (viz, from 12 to 20 feet.) Belovy the town of Colchester it 
suddenly widens to two or three miles. The earth and rubbish brought 
down by the floods are deposited, and at such times the navigation is ob- 
structed for vessels drawing more than 5 feet water. There is however 
nothing which opposes serious obstacles to clearing the bar, whenever the 
wants of the people inhabiting the countrj'^ drained by it.s waters shall re- 
quire it. The subject has already attracted some attention, and the navi- 
gation of the river and its important branch Cedar run, which it has been 
proposed to effect, above the tide by the lock and dam system, has been 
the occasion of some pfoceedinszs in the legislature. 

Population in 1810, 11,311 — 1820,0,419—1830, 9,320. Prince Wil- 
liam belongs to the sixth judicial circuit and third district. Tax paid in 
1833, $2697 07— in 1834 on lots, $183 15— on land, 1772 65—1737 
slaves, $434 25—2383 horses, $142 98—5 studs, $48 00—27 coaches, 
$59 50—15 carryalls, $15 00—16 gigs, $12 95. Total, $2668 48. 
Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $500 18 — in 1833, $565 32. 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— PRINCE WILLIAM. 



273 



TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



BRENTSVILLE. P. V, and seat 
of justice, 104 ms. from R. and 48 
S. W. of W.— The Court House, 
clerk's office and jail are handsomely 
situated on the main street, in a pub-,' 
lie square of three acres, Besides^ 
them, the village contains 19 dvvel-j 
ling houses, 3 miscellaneous stores 2 1 
handsome taverns, built of brick andj 
stuccoed, 1 house of entertainment, 1 ! 
house of public worship, free for all 
denominations, — a bible society, a 
Sunday school, a temperance and a I 
tract society, which have been of con- j 
siderable utility for the last 5 or 6 
years. There is in the vicinity a 
common school in which the rudi-l 
ments of English education are taught, j 
Brentsville is of recent establish- i 
ment, having been located around thej 
site of the new court house in 1822,1 
at which time it was completed, and 
the courts removed from Dumfries. 
It has progressed with its improve- 
ments perhaps more rapidly than has 
been observable with other county 
towns within the same period after 
their establishment, though it may be 
considered nearly stationary for the 
present. The wasteful tenure of the 
Bristoe estate, the property of the 
commonwealth, in the midst of which 
it is located, has in a manner cut it 
off from the benefits of a thriving 
neighborhood. This tract, contain- 
ing near 7000 acres and naturally 
the best land in this section, has been 
ravaged of all its timber, and for the 
most part "ploughed down to be bar- 
ren," by an unmerciful course of 
cultivation, under a numerous tenan- 
try, for upwards of 70 years. Most 
of the lots around the place have be- 
come freed from their lease, by the 
dl reliction of the tenants, who have 
left them an immense common: but 
by an act of Assembly of 1833-4, 
authorising the sale of this estate on 
such terms as the president and di- 
rectors of the Literary Fund may di 



rect, there is no doubt but the desert 
will soon be made to blossom under 
the labors of individual enterprise, 
and Brentsville will take a new start 
towards prosperity. Situated at the 
head of Occoquan river, which could 
easily be made navigable for boats at 
a cheap rate, and laying near two 
large runs, (Broad and Cedar,) which 
here form the Occoquan. Brents- 
ville is 14 miles from Dumfries, 18 
from Occoquan mills, and equidistant 
33 ms. from Fredericksburg and 
Alexandria, 12 from Hay Market, 
and 20 from W&rrenton. it is within 
9 or 10 ms. of the Warrenton and 
Alexandria turnpike Population 
130 persons, of whom 3 are attorneys 
and 3 regular physicians. The 
place is healthy and has a beautiful 
prospect of the Bull Run and Watery 
range of mountains, and the more 
di^ta^t Blue Ridge. 

County Courts are held on the \st 
Mo?idai/, in every month: — Quar- 
terly in March, June, August and 
November. 

Judge Scott holds bis Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chancery 
on the l5^ of May, and October. 

Buckla:>d, P. V. in the north- 
western part of the county, 5 ms. S. 
W. of Hay Market, 116 from R. and 
42 from W. This village has an 
elevated and romantic situation on 
Broad Run, a never failing stream, 
on which two extensive flour manu- 
facturing mills are situated, — the one 
in the tov/n and the other en its edge. 
A turnpike runs through the village 
which extends 35 ms. below to Alex* 
dria, and 8 ms. above to Warrenton. 
This village and its subuibs contains 
22 dwelling houses, 1 general store, 
1 large and extensive diatillery, I 
apothecary shop, 1 house of public 
worship ^ree for all denominations, 
and 2 houses of entertainment. The 
mechanics are, 1 tanner and cur- 
rier, 1 wagon maker. 1 boot and shoo 



274 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— PRINCE WILLIAM 



Tnanufaclurcr, I cooper, 1 hatter, 1 
inillvvright, I blacksmith, 1 tailor and 
saddler. Buckland is an incorpora- 
ted town, and for beauty of situation 
and circumjacent scenery is perhaps 
not to be surpassed by any other in 
the county. There is one well or- 
ganized siuiday school, and 1 com- 
mon school. Population 130 whites; 
of whom 1 is a physician; and 50 
blacks. 

Dumfries, P. V. 33 ms. S. S. W. 
of W. and 89 from R., situated on 
tluantico creek, near the Potomac 
river. It contains SO dwelling houses, 
3 mercantile stores, a Baptist and a 
Methodist house of worship, 1 school 
Jiouse, 2 taverns, 1 manufacturing 
Hour mill, 1 woollen manufactory, 1 
temperance society, a tanyard, 2 sad- 
dlers, 5 house carpenters, and 2 black- 
smith shops. During the freeze in 
the winter when the steam boat be- 
tween the city of Washington and 
Potomac creek is obstructed by ice, 
llie great northern and southern mail 
from W. C. to New Orleans, is car- 
ried through this town. The road in 
its neighborhood between Fredericks- 
burg and Alexandria, is in a worse 
condition than perhaps any in the 
middle States, so utterly impassable 
at times that the mail cannot travel 
This road being the principal source 
of the irregularities of the mail at 
the south, a canal was undertaken, 
and about three-eighths of a mile 
completed, but the whole scheme 
failed for the want of tbe proper di 
rection of the funds. The mouth of 
Q,uantico, 2;j miles from Dumfries, is 
the best winter harbor on the Poto- 
mac. The river seldom freezes low- 
er than that point 

Dumlries is one of the oldest towns 
in the LTnited States, and once could 
boast of much commerce, but owing 
lo a variety of circumstances, like 
many old settlements, it is noAV in a 
great measure abandoned, and many 



500 persons; of whom 1 is an attor- 
ney and 2 are regular physicians. 

Hay Market, P. O. situated in 
the northern part of the county on 
the head of Occoquan creek, 120 ms, 
from R. and 43 from W. 

Liberia, P. V. 112 ms. from R. 
and 33 S. W. of W. C. It contains 
a store, ware house and blacksmith 
shop, and a little distance from these 
under the same name, 7 other build- 
ings. This place was established in 
1825, and the post-ofiice in 1829. It 
is 7 ms. distant from Brentsville, in a 
N. E. direction. A mail goes once 
a week from this place to Centreville 
5 ms. N. of it, at which place it inter- 
sects the S. W. mail from W. C. 
The trade of the place is in dry 
goods and groceries, and the pur- 
chase of country produce. The 
country around is thickly settled, and 
the inhabitants are distinguished for 
their moral deportment. The land 
of the surrounding country was of 
universally good quality, but has been 
much abused by a system of misera- 
ble cultivation; it is yet susceptible of 
a high degree of improvement, by 
the use of clover and gypsum, of 
which many farmers have commenced 
the use. 

Occoquan, P. V. 23 ms. S. W. of 
W. and 99 from R., situated in the 
N. E. part of the county on the south 
side of Occoquan river. It was es- 
tablished by act of Assembly in the 
year 1804. The site on AAhich this 
town is situated is extremely rugged 
and ill-suited for building. The 
town is regularly laid out, the streets 
generally cross each other at right 
angles. It contains about 50 dwel- 
ling houses, several mercantile stores, 
and various mechanics, — a cotton 
manufactory in complete operation, 
and one of the first established in the 
State, now running 1000 spindles, 1 
extensive manufacturing flour mill, 
grinding in the ordinary season 150 



of its excellent dwellings are in a| barrels per day, — with the necessary 
state of rapid decay. Population (appendages of grist, saw, and plaster 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— PRINCE WILLIAM. 



27i 



mills. A handsome and permanent 
bridge is erected across the river at 
this place; over the bridge and thro' 
the town runs the great mail route 
from Washington to the south. This 
village is in a flourishing condition, 
and with confidence looks forward to 
further improvement. 'IMie principal 
trade of the town is with the counties 
of Fairfax, Loudoun, Fauquier, and 
Stafford. The Occoquan at this 
place has a full of 72 feet in 1^ ms. 
affording excellent sites for manufac- 
tories. This is the market for many 
of the most important shad and her- 
ring fisheries on the Potomac. The 
scenery at and near Occoquan has 
frequently been the theme of praise. 
The traveller moving along the plains 
of lower Virginia, his eye accustom- 
ed to the tame prospect of the alluvial 
country, suddenly finds himself in a 
ravine, descending a hill, the precipi- 
tous ridges of which inspire him 
with terror. Should curiosity prompt 
him to tarry the rest of the day amidst 
this wild scene, the sacrifice will be 
amply repaid. — The botany of this 
neighborhood is very rich ; here are 
in close proximity plants of the 
mountain and of the marshes. The 
mosses are numerous and beautiful. 
In the marshes, near the mouth ofi 
the river, are many interesting plants. 
In the river in this vicinit^r there is a 
quarry of valuable whetstones, a bank 
impregnated with alum, and a cave 
which has never been satisfactorilj- 
explored. 

Thoroughfare, P. V. 47 ms. S. 
W. of W. and 124 from R., situated 
near the western boundary of the 
county, 9 ms. N. E. of Warrenton: 
with a turnpike to Ale.xandria 36 
ms. distant. It lies immediately un- 
der the Bull Run mountain, Avhich 
runs N. and S. and takes its name 
from a small stream which passes 
through it. About 3 miles N. of this 
place Broad Run, one of the best 
streams in this section of country for 
.size and con.stanov, passes through 



the same mountain. Upon this 
.stream there ai"e 2 manufacturing 
flour mills, running 3 pair of buhrs, 
and which jointly manufacture from 
20 to 30,000 bushels of wheat annu- 
ally; the water of these mills has a 
fall of from 22 to 24 feet in the dis- 
tance of half a mile. About 600 
yard.s below the I'horoughfare, there 
is an advantageous position for a 
manufactory, with a fall of water of 
22 feet. At this place are located 12 
dwelling houses, and 1 mercantile 
store. Baoad Run is composed of 
two streams which unite a short dis- 
tance above the mountain, each hav- 
ing pursued their respective courses 
through a rich and mountainous re- 
gion for many miles; at the base of 
the mountain they unite, and rush to- 
gether Avitli great velocity over a 
rocky bed: bearing a striking resem- 
blance to the scene presented by the 
mountains, rivers, &c., at Harper's 
Ferry, on a smaller scale. 

The land lying immediately above 
the mountains is rich, and contains a 
dense population, bearing a strong 
evidence that it was once inundated, 
from a like cause as at Harper's Fer- 
ry. The western side of the moun- 
tain presents an abrupt precipice of 
granite rock, while the trees grow to 
the summit. On the east in the gap 
of the mountain, the rocks lie scat- 
terred in wild confusion, evidentlj' 
thrown out by some great concussion 
of nature. Near the gap is a spring 
issuing from under a great rock, of 
the p'.irest and best water, which is 
not increased or diminished in any 
season. It stands on the road side, 
and is by travellers regarded as the 
"Diamond Spring, in Palestine." 
There are some indications of coal 
and iron, but neither has as yet been 
discovered. The mountains on the 
east side present a most romantic 
and beautiful view of the rapid and 
roaring current winding its way 
through a-feviile valley. 



276 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— RAPPAHANNOCK. 



RAPPAHANNOCK. 

Rappahannock was created by the Legislature in 1831, and formed 
out of a portion of Culpeper county. It is bounded on the N. by the North 
Fork of the Rappahannock river, which separates it from Fauquier, — E. 
by Culpeper, — S. by Madison, — and W. by the Blue Ridge, which sepa- 
rates it from Shenandoah. It extends in fat. from about 38° 3' to 38° 22' 
N. and in long, from about 0° 5' to 1° 15' W. of W. C. Its precise di- 
mensions in miles, we are unacquainted with. Its population also, being 
included with that of Culpeper at the last census, is unknown. 

Rappahannock belongs to the 11th judicial circuit and 6th district. Tax 
paid in 1833, $1851 06— in 1834, on lots, 846 72— on land, $1096 83-- 
1853 slaves. $464 50—2743 horses, $164 58—10 studs, $81 00— J 3 
coaches, 833 00— 6 carryalls, S6 00— 9 gigs, $5 50. Total, $1898 13, 
No report from school commissioners 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Flint Hill, P. O. 128 ms. from 
R. and 91 S. W. of W. This vil- 
lage contains 26 dwelling houses, 4 
mercantile stores, 2 taverns, 1 manu- 
facturing flour mill, 1 house of pub- 
lic worship, free for all denomina- 
tions, 2 tanyards, 2 saddlers, with va- 
rious other mechanics Population 
140 persons; of whom 1 is an attor- 
ney, and 2 practising physicians. 

Gaines' Cross Roads, P. O. 87 
ms. S. W. of W. and 124 N. N. W. 
of R. It contains 9 dwelling houses, 
1 general store, 1 tailor, and 1 black- 
smith shop, and 1 Baptist house of 
worship. The surrounding country 
is fertile, well cultivated and densely 
settled. 

Newsy's Cross Roads, P. O. 109 
ms. from R. and 70 N. W. by W. of 
W. It contains several dwelling 
houses, and 2 mercantile stores. 
Population 30. There are within 
the circumference ol 6 miles ten 
country and flour manufacturing 
mills, several tanyards, &c. The 
country around is thickly settled and 
fertile, producing well all the com- 
mon staples of the country. 

Sandy Hook, P. O. 134 ms. from 
R. and 85 from W., situated 3 ms. S. 
of Chester C4ap, and one-fourth of a 
mile N. of Flint Hill in Wakefield 
Manor, on the road leading from 



Washington, the seat of justice, ta 
Front Royal, in Frederick county, 9 
ms. from the former and 10 from the 
latter. The land adjoining Sandy 
Hook is fertile and productive, about 
8000 acres of it is in the possession 
of Bazil Gordon, of Falmouth, Va. 
Sandy Hook has 4 dwelling houses, 
1 mercantile store, 1 blacksmith, 1 
wheelwright, and 1 boot and shoe 
maker. Population 33: of whom 1 
is a physician. 

Slate Mills, P. O. 109 ms. from 
R. and 91 S. W. of W. This vil- 
lage contains 4 dwelling houses, 1 
general store, 1 manufacturing flour 
mill, a grist and saw mill, 2 black- 
smiths, a wheelwright, and a cooper 

hop. 

WASHINGTON, P. V. and seat 
of justice, 118 ms. from R. and 81 
S. W. of W. C. It is situated at the 
southeastern foot of the Blue Ridge, 
in a fertile country, upon one of the 
head branches of Rappahannock 
river, (called Bnsh river,) and recent- 
ly chosen as the seat of justice for the 
county. It was formerly a P. O. in 
Culpeper Co.) It contains besides 
the usual county buildings, (lately 
erected,) 1 academy, 55 dwelling 
hotises, 4 mercantile stores, 2 taverns, 
1 house of public worship, free for 
all denominations. The principal 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— RICHMOND. 



277 



mechanics arc 4 hlacksmiths, 4 car- 
penters, 2 saddlers, 1 halter, 1 tan- 
ner, 2 wagon makers, 3 tailors, 4 
shoemakers, I cabinet maker, 1 sil- 
versmith, 3 milliners, I plaisterer and 
bricklayer. In the vicinity there is 
a large and highly respectable female 
seminary, in which are taught all 
the various branches of English lite- 
rature, together with the French and 
Italian languages: and in the imme- 
diate neighborhood, are 2 large and 
extensive manufacturing flour mills. 
This village is rapidly improving, 
and is in a flourishing and prosper- 
ous condition, being situated in a 
thickly settled and enterprising neigh- 
borhood. Population 350 persons; 
of whom 4 are attorneys, and 2 regu 
lar physicians. 

County Courts are held on the Is/ 
Mo?tdaj/ in every month. Quarterli/ 



in March, June, September, and No- 
vein her. 

Judge Field holds his Circuit Su- 
perior Court of Law and Chancery 
on the '2'2d of April and September. 

WooDviLLE, P. V. in the western 
angle of the county, 1 15 ms, N. W. 
of R. and 97 S. W. by W. of W., 
situated on the road leading from 
Thornton's Gap, in the Blue Ridge, 
to Fredericksburg, 1 1 ms. from the 
top of the Ridge, and 55 from the 
latter. It contains 4 mercantile stores, 
2 taverns, I school in which is taught 
all the main branches of an English 
education, 30 dwelling houses, 1 tan- 
yard, 3 blacksmiths, 1 saddler, 1 boot 
and shoe maker, 1 cabinet maker, 1 
carpenter and house joiner, and 1 
tailor. Population 200 persons; of 
whom 1 is an attorney, and 2 are 
regular physicians. 



RIOHMOXD. 

Richmond was created by the Legislature in 1692, when the old county 
of Rappahannock was extinguished and the counties of Essex and Rich- 
mond made from its territories. It is bounded N. and N. E. by Westmore- 
land, — E. by Northumberland, — S. by Moratico creek, which separates it 
from Lancaster, — S. W. and W. by the Rappahannock river, which sepa- 
rates it from Essex, — and N. W. by Brockenbrough creek, separating it 
from Westmoreland. Its mean length is 25 miles, breadth 7^; and area 
194 sq. miles. It extends in lat. from 37° 47' to 33° 10' N. and in long, 
from 0° 10' to 0° 30' E. of W. C. 

Richmond belongs to the fifth judicial circuit, and third district. Popu- 
lation in 1820, 5,706~in 1830, 6,055. Tax paid in 1833, 81158 67— in 
1834,— on land, $679 02—1281 slaves, 8320 25—686 horses, 841 16— 
4 stud.s, $40 00—16 coaches, 840 40—9 carryalls, 89 00—78 gigs, 
$47 25. Total, 81177 08. Expended in educating poor children in 
1833, 8167 51— no report for 1832. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Harn-h.vm, p. O. 66 ms. N.E. of R. 
and 128 from W. 

Lyei-l's Store. P. O. 60 ms. from 
R. and 122 S. S. E. of W. 

RICHMOND C. H. P. V. 56 ms. 



W. C. This village, besides the 
usual county buildings, court house, 
clerk's office and jail, contains 9 pri- 
vate dwelling houses, 2 general stores, 
I house of public worship, (Episco- 



from R. and 118 S. E. of W., in lat. Jpalian,) 1/female hoarding school, in 
37° 55' N. and long. 0^ 18' E. ofjwhich are taught the necessary 



278 EASTERN VIRGINIA— SOUTHAMPTON. 

branches of polite education, and 1 neighborhood. Population 100 per- 
primary school for boys, 2 boot and! sons: of whom 4 are attorneys, and 
shoe factories, I saddler, and 2 houses jl a physician. 

Covnty Courts are lield on the \st 
Monday in every month. Quarterly 
in March, May, August and Novem- 
ber. 

Judge Lomax holds his Circuit 



of public entertainment. Tlie near 
est navigable waters are two branches 
of the Rappahannock river, each 3 
ms. distant, one the Toteskey, the 
other Rappahannock creek. The 



situation of this place is elevated andjSuperior Court of Law and Chance- 
healthy, and the vicinity in a highiry on the I'-ith of April and Sth of 
state of improvement. Indian corn, Ortober. 
and wheat are the staple crops of the ' 



SOUTIIxl MFTON. 

Southampton was created l)y act of Assembly in 1748, and formed out 
of a part of Isle of Wight county. It is bounded N. W. by Sussex, — 
Surry N. — Blackwater river, separating it from the Isle of Wight, N. E. 
— Nansemond E., — Hertford and Northampton counties, N. Carolina, S. 
— and Meherrin river, separating it from Greensville, S. W. Its length is 
40 miles, mean width 15; and area 600 square miles. The parallel of N. 
lat. 36*-^ 40', and the meridian of W. C. intersect in this county. Its slope 
is southeastward, and in that direction it is traversed by Nottoway river. 
The soil of this county is light and but little broken and well adapted to 
the cultivation of Indian corn, cotton, benns and potatoes, of which the 
two first are the principal commodities 'J'he husbandry is generally good. 
— It abounds in the finest of pine timber, from which is made for exporta- 
tion tar and turpentine. Nottoway river runs from N. W. to S. E., and by 
its junction with the Black water river forms the Chowan. It is naviga- 
ble for vessels of GO or 70 tons, as far as Monroe, from which place con- 
siderable quantities of lumber and other produce are shipped to Norfolk. 
Its length is about 120 miles. — Blackwater river takes its rise in Prince 
George county, and running in a southwardly direction, unites with the 
Nottoway. It is navigable for vessels of the largest size as far as South 
Quay in Nansemond county, and for small vessels for some miles higher 
up into the county of Southampton. In the low grounds bordering upon 
Nottoway and Blackwater rivers, the growth is chiefly oak and cypress of 
the finest quality, which must at no distant period be of great value. — The 
Portsmouth and Roanoke rail road passing through the county, and con- 
sequently crossing each of these rivers, will afford the greatest facilitj'^ in 
conveying produce to market. — The prevailing religious denominations in 
this county are the Methodist and Baptist. They each have numerous 
houses of public worship in convenient parts of the county. 

Population in 1820, 14,170 — in 1830, 16,074. Southampton belongs to 
the first judicial circuit and first district. Tax paid in 1833, S3 136 33 — 
in 1834.— On lots, $31 28— on land, $1470 03—3835 slaves, $958 75— 
2661 horses, $1.59 66—14 studs, $166 00—51 coaches, $125 00—24 car- 
ryalls, $24 00—277 gigs, $161 55. Total, $3096 28. Expended in 
educating poor children in 1832, $515 45— in 1833, $507 SI, 



KASTERN VUlUlNlA-Sl'OTTSYLVANlA. 



270 



TOWNS, VILLAGES, POS T OFFICES, &c. 



t>r.Tni.KHEM Cross RoAns, P. O. 
Dl ms. from II. and 213 from W. 

BowKKs', P.O. 91 ms. S. E. of R. 
and 213 from W. siluatod in the 
southern part of the count v. 

Farm Tavern, P. O/OO ms. S. 
S. E. of R. and 210 S. of W. 

JERUSALEM, P. V. and seal of 
Justice. 81 ms. S. S. E. of R. and 
203 from W. in lat. 36'^ 42' and long. 
0^ 3' W. of W. This village is situa- 
ted on Nottoway river, and contains 
besides the ordinary county buildings, 
about 25 dwelling houses, 4 mercan- 
tile stores, 1 saddler, 1 carriage maker, 
2 hotels, 1 masonic hall, and 2 houses 



of public entertainment. This town 
has been stationary for 20 years, hav- 
ing neither retrograded or advanced. 
Population 175 persons; of whom 4 
are resident attorneys, and 4 regular 
physicians. 

Counfi/ Courts arc held on the Zd 
Mondai/ in every month; — Quarter- 
ly in March, June, August and No' 
vember. 

JuDGK Baker holds liis Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chancery 
on the \st of June and 29//i of Octo- 
ber. 

Ukqtihart'p Stoke, P. O. 79 ms. 
S. E. of R. and 201 from W. 



SPOTTSYL.VAN1 A. 

Sfott.svlvam.a, was created by the legislature in 1720, and formed out 
of portions of Essex, King William arrcVKing & Queen counties. It is 
bounded on the N. by the Rappahannock river which separates it from 
Culpeper and Stafford, on the E. by Caroline, on the S. by Caroline, Han- 
over and Louisa, and on the W. by Orange. It is situated between 37° 59' 
and 38° 20' N. and between 20° 30' and 57° 30' W. from W. This coun- 
ty contains exclusive of Fredericksburg, 11,826 inhabitants. The soil of 
Spottsylvania is various, that near the rivers and smaller streams is very 
line; but it is far otherwise on the ridges; for a wretched system of cultiva- 
tion adopted by the first settlers and long persisted in by their descendants, 
has reduced the land, originally thin, to a condition from which it will re- 
quire much time and labor to rescue it. 

The gold mines of this county having excited some interest, it may not 
be out of place here to say something of them. Abo\it seven j-ears ago two 
brothers of the name of White, discovered some small pieces of gold on 
their farm, this naturally excited them to look further; when it was disco- 
vered that after every rain numerous particles of various sizes became visi- 
ble. This was a sufficient hint to others. The most energetic, but misdi- 
rected zeal covered the country with explorers, having the least possible 
knowledge of the matter in hand. ThV}- might be seen hurrying hither 
and thither with a spade and tin pan, now stooping to lift a stone — now 
stooping to wound the bosom of their mother earth, and perhaps add another 
pound to the already cumbrous load of "indications" at their back. It 
Avas marvellous to see how they mutilated and distorted terms of science. 
The classic heathen were not more familiar with their household gods, than 
were these children of mamon Avith what they were pleased to call 'fridigi- 
nous quartz and '' oxinginized iro7i." A little cube of sulphuret of iron 
found on a man's farm, would elevate liis hopes to the highest pitch of ex- 
citement: and if anyone told him that it was not gold, lie incontinently sus- 



S^af EASTERN- -VIRC4IIiIA— SPOTITS Y.i.y.±:NlA. 

pected him of a design to purchase the land. Gold, however, was found in 
considerable quantities, and that sort of stock rose to an excessive price^ 
which of necessity produced a correspondent reaction, and the present de- 
pression is probably as much below the real value, as the former was 
above it.* 

Tobacco was formerly planted to the exclusion of almost every thing 
else ; but within the last 30 years it has gradually given place to wheat and 
Indian corn. 

The minerals found in greatest abundance are granite, free stone, quartz 
and shistus : the two latter being ordinarily the gangue of the gold. 

The religious sects in the county are exclusive of the town, chiefly Bap- 
tists, who have 8 meeting houses; and Methodists who have 4 meeting 
houses. Of stores there are 7; mills 25, some of which are prepared for 
making flour, but only I is thus employed, and taverns 5. In these last 
are included only those which have tavern licence. The natural growth of 
the county is principally oak, and what is here called fox-tail pine, the lat- 
ter being'found in lands v/hich were formerly exhausted by injudicious cul- 
tivation, and being neglected have thus clothed themselves. Population 
1820, 14,254 — 1830, 15,134. This county belongs to the 5th judicial cir- 
cuit and 3rd district. Taxes paid in 1833, $4,0G4 10 — in 1834, on lot^, 
$959 24— on land, $1,534 89—4,250 slaves, 81,062 50—2,478 horses, 
§148 68—10 studs, $98 00—78 coaches, 8174 00—4 stages, $7 00—39 
carrayalls, 839 00—131 gigs, 880 27. Total, 84,103 58. Expended in 
educating poor children in 1832, $402 39— in 1833, 8507 23. 

Historical Sketch. — The earliest authentic information we have of 
that portion of our state now called Spot'tsylvania, is found in an act past 
"at a grand assemblie held at Tames Cittie" between the 20th September 
1674, and the 17th March 1675, in v^^hich war is declared against the In- 
dians ; and amongst other provisions for earring it on, it is ordered that 
"one hundred and eleven men out of Glocester county be garrisoned at one 
"ffort," or place of defence at or neare the ffalls of Rapahanack river, of 
which flbrt Major Lawrence Smith to be captain or chiefe commander;" 
and that this "ffort" be furnished with " ffour hundred and eighty pounds 
of powder, ffourteen hundred and fforty three pounds of shott." This "fforl" 
was built in 1676 as appears by the preamble of a subsequent act. 

In the year 1679 Major Lawrence Smith upon his own suggestion was 
empowered, provided he would settle or seate downe at or neare said fort 
by the last day of March 1681, and have in readiness upon all occasions on 
beat of drum, fifty able men well armed with sufficient ammunitions, d:c. 
and two hundred men more within the space of a mile along the river, and 
a quarter of a mile back from the river, prepared always to march twenty 
miles in any direction from the fi-.rt ; or should they be obliged to go more 
than such distance to be paid f^-^- •> time thus employed at the rate of 
other " souldiers," " to execute martiall discipline" amongst the said fifty 
" souldiers and others so put in arms" both in times of war and peace : and 

* There arc two manners of gathering gold practised here — 1st. by waihing the 
earth for what is called '• surface-gold." This plan is pursued in several places in 
the county. The earth containing the particles, is thrown into cradles, into which 
mercury is poured, and a constant stream of water is directed — the amalgum found in 
the bottom is distilled — 2nd. mining, properly so called, is also carried on at a place 
on the Rappahannock river aboiU, 20 miles above Fredericksburg, the property of the 
United Stales Mining Company, incorporated at the labt session of the legislature. 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— SPOTTSYLVANIA. 281 

said Smith with two others of said privileged place to hear and determine 
all causes civil and criminal, that may arise within said limits, as a county 
Court might do, and to make bye-laws for the same. These military set- 
tlers were priviledged from arrest for any debts save those due to the King, 
and those contracted among themselves — and were free from laxes and le- 
vies save those laid within their own limits. 

The exact situation of this fort cannot now be determined with absolute 
certainty; but as it is known that there was once a military post at Germana, 
some ruins of which are still occasionally turned up by the plough, it is 
probable th^t this is the spot selected by Col. Smith for his colony. 

The earliest notice we have of Spoftsylvania county, as such, is found in 
7th Geo. I. 1720, passed at Williamsburg, of which the preamble declares 
by way of inducement " that the frontiers toward the high mountains are ex- 
posed to danger from the Indians and ihe late settlements of the French to 
the westward of the said mountains." Therefore it is enacted that Spott- 
sylvania county bounds upon Snow creek up to the mill, thence by a S. W. 
line to the North Anna, thence up the said river as far as convenient, and 
thence by a line to be run over the high mountains to the river on the N. 
W. side thereof, so as to include the northern passage through the said 
mountains, thence down the said river until it comes against the head of 
Rappahannock, thence by a line to the head of Rappahannock river and 
down that river to the mouth of Snow creek, which tract of lands from the 
1st of May 1721 shall become a county by the name of Spottsylvania Co." 

The a^t goes on to direct thai " fifteen hundred pounds current money 
of Virginia shall be paid by the treasurer to the Governor, for these uses, 
to wit : £000 to be expended in a church, court house, prison, pillory and 
stocks in said county: £1,000 to be laid out in arms, ammunition, (fee. of 
which each "Chrisfian tytheable" is to have "one firelock, musket,* one 
socket, bayonet fired thereto, one cartouch box, eight pounds bullet, and 
two pound.s powder." The inhabitants were made free of public levies for 
ten years, and the whole county made one parish by the name of St. George. 

From the following clause of the same act it is presumed that this new 
county had been cut off from Essex, King <fc Clueen and Kmg William: 
for the act declares that " until the Governor shall settle a court in Spottsyl- 
vania," the justices of these counties " shall take power over them by their 
warrants, and the clerks of said courts by their process returnable to their 
said courts, in the same ■manner as before the said county icas constitided.^'' 

In the year 1730 an act wa-s passed directing that the Burgesses for this 
county should be allowed for four days journey in passing to Williams- 
burg; and the same returning. In the same year St. George's Parish was. 
divided by a line running from the mouth of Rappahannock to the Pamun- 
key: the upper portion to be called St. Mark's Parish ; the lower part to re- 
tain the name of St. George's Parish. Four years after this the county was 
thus divided: St. George's Parish to-be stilf called Spottsylvania; and St. 
Mark's Parish to be called Grange.. A all settlers beyond the " Sherran- 
do,"t river to be exempt for three years from the "paiment" of public and 
parish dues. 

* Whether it was intended to make these a compound word as firelock-mu-'skct, wc 
know not — we have followed the pritUcd act. 
+ This i.s the spelling of the act '• Shcnando." 
36 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— SPOTTSYLVANI A. 



The Governor fixed the seat of justice at Germanna, where the first court 
sat on the 1st day of August 1722 when Augustine Smith, Richard Booker, 
John Taliaferro, Wm. Hunsford, Richard Johnson and Wm. Bledsoe were 
sworn as justices, John Waller, as clerk, and Wm. Bledsoe as sheriff: this 
place being found " inconvenient to the people," it was directed by law that 
from and after the 1st August 1732, the court should be held at Fredericks- 
burg, which law was repealed seventeen years afterwards, because it was 
" derogatory to his majesty's prerogative to take from the Governor or com- 
mander-in-chief of this colony his power and authority of removing or ad; 
journing the courts;" and because "it might be inconvenient in a. case- 9^ 
small pox or other contagious distemper." r . 

In 1769 the county which had theretofore been one parish was thus .di- 
vided, — all that part lyingbetween the rivers Rappahannock and Po retail- 
ed the name of St. George's Parish, — the rest of the county was erected 
into a new parish called Berkley. In 1778 an act was passed authorising 
the justices to build a Court house at some point near the centre of the coutt- 
tv to which the courts hould be removed, provided a majority of the justice* 
should concur in deeming it advisable. It appears that the justices deter- 
mined to avail themselves of this privilege, for an act of 1780 passed, as.is 
therein stated fn consequence of a representation, that the Court house ia 
Fredericksburg was "unfit to hold courts in," authorises the county court 
to be held at the house of John Holiaday, " until the new Court house iipw 
building in the said couniy shall be completed.'''' 

The first regular stage coaches that passed through this county were es- 
tablished by Nathaniel Twiniag, by virture of an exclusive privilege 
granted him in 1784, for the term of three years, to be paid at the- rate of 
five pence per mile by each passenger. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Chancellorsville, p. v. 76 ms. 
from R. and 66 from W., situated at 
the junction of Elly's road with the 
Swift Run Gap and Fredericksburg 
turnpike, about 10 ms. from the latter 
place. It contains 14 dwelling houses, 
a tavern which has a front of 106 ft. 
on the turnpike and runs back 55 ft. 
on Elly's road, and a blacksmith shop. 
The surrounding scenery is very 
pretty, and the soil tolerably fertile 
and susceptib)e of improvement. The 
products are corn, wheat, rye, oats 
and hay, which are principally sold 
in Fredericksburg. The neighbor- 
hood is thickly settled, and contain 3 
houses of public worship, 2 of which 
belong to the Baptist, and 1 to the 
Methodists, and a Sunday school in a 
prosperous condition. 

I^AiVlELsviLLE, p. O. 90 ms. fi-om 
R. and 80 vm. S. W. of W. Daniels- 



ville is only a P. O. situated in the 
midst of the gold region, and contigu- 
ous to the White Hall gold mine, 10 
ms. S. W. of Fredericksburg. 24 ms. 
E. of Orange C. H., 8 nis. S. of the 
Wildnerness tavern, 12 ms. E. of the 
Orange Springs, and 10 ms. W. of 
Spottsylvania C. H. immediately on 
the road leading from Orange Springs 
to Fredericksburg. The mail is car- 
ried on horseback, and received on 
Wednesday's and Thursday's. 

Fredericksburg, Port of Entry, 
and Post Town, 56 miles South S. 
W. of Washington City, and 66 ms. 
a little E. of N. from Richmond, in 
lat. 38° 34', 20" N. and long. 77° 38' 
W. of W. C, situated on the S. side 
of Rappahannock river, at the head of 
tide water, and about 150 ms. from its 
mouth. This is a prosperous port : 
vessels of 140 tons can be naviffated 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— SPOTTSYLVANIA. 



283 



to the foot of the falls. It derives its 
name from Prince Frederick, father 
of Georg-e III. and was founded in 
17-27, on what was originally called 
the lease land, and contained when 
first laid out, 50 acres, — in 1742 the 
boundaries of the town were enlarged, 
and still further enlarged in 1759. 
The town is seated in a rich valley, 
the view of which from any of the 
neighbouring liills is exceedingly 
beautiful. It is incorporated, the 
management of its affairs are entrust- 
ed to a Mayor at i$400 per annum, 
and a common Council without sala- 
ries. The corporation owes about 
$16,000, but holds real property to a 
rhuch larger amount. The public 
buiWings are a C. H., clerk's office 
and jail, a neat brick market house 
a1)undantly supplied with all kinds of 
meats, fish and vegetables. There 
are 5 houses of public worship, 1 
Episcopalian, 1 Presbyterian, 1 Me- 
thodist, I Baptist and 1 Reformed 
Baptist, 5 male and 7 female schools, 
besides 2 free schools, 1 male and 1 
female, which are incorporated and 
endowed, the former having 40, and 
the latter 18 pupils, and to each of the 
above churches is attached a Sunday 
school. There are 1 orphan asylum, 
4 taverns and 97 licensed stores, 2 
printing offices, the Virginia Herald 
and the Political Arena, each issuing 
a semi-weekly paper. The former of 
these is the oldest paper in Virginia. 
The principal mechanical pursuits 
are 3 tanneries and 3 saddlers, be- 
sides house carpenters, iron founders, 
cabinet makers, tailors, boot and shoe 
makers, house, sign and ornamental 
painters, stone cutters, brick layers, 
blacksmiths, watch makers, tallow 
chandlers, tin plate workers, copper 
smiths, gun smiths, hatters, butchers, 
bakers, machinists, coach makers and 
trimmers, carvers and gilders, stucco 
workers, plaisterers, plumbers, turn- 
ers and confectioners. This town is 
supplied with 3 kinds of fuel, viz: — 
wood from the neighborliood, by land 



and by the canal, tlie lower part of 
which is now open, bituminous coal 
from Richmond, and the anthracite, 
and is supplied with Avater, through 
aqueducts, constructed by an incorpo- 
rated company. In the immediate vi- 
cinity are found vast quantities of very 
fine granite and free stone. A canal 
is now in progress to connect this 
town with Fox's mill, a point on the 
river 35 ms. above. There are an- 
nually exported from this town 75,000 
barrels of flour, 150,000 bushels of 
wheat, 400 hogsheads of tobacco, 
about 500,000 bushels of Indian corn, 
500 tierces of flax seed, and between 
65 and $70,000 worth of gold, &,c. 
In the year 1738 a law was passed di- 
recting that " Fairs should be held in 
Fredericksburg twice a year lor the 
sale of cattle, provisions, goods, wares 
and all kinds of merchandize whatso- 
ever." All persons at such Fairs, 
going to or from them, were privil- 
edged from arrest and execution — du- 
ring the Fairs, and for 2 days before 
and 2 days after them, except for cap- 
ital offences, breaches of the peace, or 
for any controversies, suits and quar- 
rels that might arise during the time. 
These Fairs were continued from 
time to time, by various acts until 
1769 when the right of holding them 
was made perpetual. Population, 
whites 1,797 persons; of whom 10 
are resident attorneys, and 6 regular 
physicians: slaves, 1,124; free blacks, 
387. Total 3,308. 

Lewis's Store, P O. 59 ms, from 
R. and 84 ms. from. W. 

Mount Pleas.vnt, P. O. 60 ms. 
from R. and 76 from W., situated im- 
mediately on the main south western 
route, leading from Fredericksburg 
[by Cartersville to Powelton, in Geor- 
|gia, 20 ms. S. W. of F., 5 ms. S. of 
.Spottsvlvania C. H. 6 ms. N. W. of 
'New "Market, 10 ms. N. of Dabney 
j Mills, and 7 ms. N. E, of Lewis's 
I Store. 

I Partlow, p. O. 59 ms. N. of R. 
land 79 ms. S. S. V\^ of W, 



284-. 



EASTERN VlRGIiM A— STAFFORD. 



SPOTTSYLVANIA C. H. P. O. 

situated about the centre of the coun- 
ty, on Po river. 

County Con,rts are held on the 2fZ 
Thursday in every month; — Quarter- 
ly in March, May, August and No- 
vember. 

Circuit Superior Courts of Law 
and Chancery are held on the Q,3d 
of May and August, by Judge Lo- 

MAX. 

Thomburg, p. V. 69 ms. from R. 
and 70 ms. S. W. of W., situated 14 
ms. S. of Fredericksburg. A part of the 
village is on the N. and a part on the 
S. side of the river Po. It contains 
several dwelling houses, 1 mercantile 
store, 1 house of entertainment, 1 
general mill, running 3 pair of stones, 
1 tanyard and a blacksmith's .shop, 1 
common school; and there is in the 
vicinity a Baptist house of public 
worship. The mail arrives only 
once a week. 

Todd's Store, P. O. 80 ms. from 
R. and 70 ms from W. 

Twyman's Store, P. O. 99 ms. 
from R, and 89 ms, S. AV. of W. 



Wilderness, P. O. on the north 
western border of the county, 81 ms. 
from R. and 71 ms. S. S. W. of W., 
situated on the turnpike road, 15 ms. 
from Fredericksburg. It contains 
several dwelling houses, 1 extensive 
mercantile store, 1 tavern, a tailor's 
and a blacksmith's shop. This place; 
is situated in a healthy country, which 
produces corn, oats, barley, wheat, to- 
bacco, rye, potatoes, hemp, flax, <fcc. 
Much gold is found in the vicinity., 
and several gold establishments in ac- 
tive operation, some of which are 
jworked to great advantage and profit. 
jThese gold operations, have already 
'produced a very sensible eflfect upon 
jthis section of country, bringing a 
considerable amount of capital into ac- 
tive use, and makinsf business brisk. 
I ... 

•Should the mining business continue 

jto improve, of which there is at pre- 
jsent no doubt, this place must increase 
considerably in importance. The 
mail from Fredericksburg to Char-. 
lottesville, and a horse mail from 
[Louisa pass daily. Fifteen mails a 
v.'eek are received. 



STAFFO.R.D. 



Stafford was created by act of Aftsembly 1675, and formed out of a 
pan of Westmoreland county. It is bounded on the N. by Prince Wil- 
liam, — E. by the Potomac river, separating it from Charles Co. Md., — 
S. E. by King George county, — S. by the Rappahannock Avhich separates 
it from Caroline county, — S. W. by Spottsylvania, — W. by Culpeper, — 
and N. W. by Fauqier. Near lat. 38° 25', long. 0° 22' W. of W. C. — 
Length 20 miles; mean width 12, — and area 300 square miles. Its sur- 
face is hilly, and generally poor. The agricultural productions are wheat, 
rye, corn, oats, hay, tobacco, &c. The soil is of a varied character. On 
the Potomac it is of a light loam, which is very productive, and is inter- 
spersed with beds of shell marl of the richest quality. Contiguous to this 
division of the county, there is a tract of land six or eight miles in width 
and extending through the entire length of the county, which abounds 
whh free stone of excellent quality. Large quantities of this article are 
exported to supply the demands of Washington, Baltimore, Norfolk and 
various other places. The soil in this free stone region is of a sandy 
nature, and less productive than the loam in the more immediate -Cicinity of 
the Potomac. In the remaining portion of Stafford the soil is a clay of 
varying color and consistency, and with proper husbandry produces good 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— STAFFORD. 



crops of wheat. The species of stone found here are granite, quartz, &c. 
A vein of gold ore extends through this part of the county, which is 
represented to be equal in richness to any that has been discovered in Vir- 
ginia. There are three considerable creeks in the county, viz: Aquia, 
Potomac, and Accokeek ; all of which admit the tides from Potomac river. 
The two first named arc navigable by schooners for several miles in the 
interior, and in common with the river aflbrds valuable sites for herring 
fisheries. There are nine houses of public worship in this county — 4 
Baptist, 2 Methodist, 1 Presbyterian, and 2 free for all denominations. 

Population 1820, 9,517— in 1830, 9,362. It belongs to the sixth judi- 
cial circuit and third district. Taxes paid in 1833. $2085 32 — in 1834 on 
lots, 118 63— on land, $1179 73— 181G slaves, $454 00—1690 horses, 
$101 40—4 studs, $43 00—30 coaches, $64 00—47 carryalls, $47 00— 
29 gig.s, $18 05. Total, $2025 81. Expended in educating poor children 
in 1832, $305 1 1— in 1833, $247 28, 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



A QUI A, P. O. 80 ms. from R. and 
42 from W. It takes its name from a 
creek on which it is situated at the 
head of tide water. There are one 
or two old dilapidated houses, in 
which some trade was probably for- 
merly carried on, — but no business is 
now done. 

Falmouth, P. V. 68 ms. N. of R. 
and 58 S. S. W. of W., situated on 
the left bank of Rappahannock river, 
at the foot of tlie falls, in the southern 
part of the county, a mile above Fred- 
ericksburg. It is connected with 
the Spottsylvania shore by a bridge. 
Falmouth was incorporated and laid 
out as a village by act of Assembly 
in 1727. It has rapidly improved — 
containing 70 dwelling houses, 12 
general stores, 1 house of public 
w^orship free for all denominations, 1 
common school, 1 masonic hall, 1 
druggist shop, 3 merchant mills, 
manufacturing about 30,000 barrels 
of flour annually, and inspecting 
60,000, 3 grist mills, 1 in the town 
and 2 in its immediate vicinity, (one 
of which is situated on the site of an 
old forge, at which was the largest 
manufactory of arms during the revo- 
lution,) 1 lanyard, 1 tailor, 2 black- 
smith shops, and 1 buhr mill stone 
factory. The handsomest bridge 
across the Rappahannock is .situated 



at this place. Population about 500 
persons, of whom 2 are attorneys and 
3 regular physicians. 

Spottedville, p. O. 69 ms. from 
R. and 79 from W., situated 12 m-s. 
N. W. of Falmouth, on the stage 
road leading from Winchester and 
\\ arrentou to Frederick.sburg, and in 
the immediate vicinity of several 
gold mines. Spottedville is the name 
of a P. O. which stands 4 ms. above 
ihe place at M'hich the road forks. 
At the latter place are situated a ta- 
vern, a mercantile store, a Baptist 
and a Methodist house of public wor- 
ship At this place a road to Staf- 
ford C. H., 16 ms. distant, intersects 
one to Richard's Ferry, and the Rat- 
tle Snake gold mines, one to JefTer- 
sonton in Culpeper, and one to Sum- 
merville. Elk Run, and Warrenton. 

STAFFORD C. H. P. V. 76 ms. 
N. E. of R. and 46 S. W. of W., in 
lat. 38° 10' N. and long. 25' W. of 
W. C. This village, besides the usu- 
al county buildings, contains 13 dwel- 
ling houses, 2 mercantile stores, 1 
tavern and several mechanics. Popu- 
lation 90 persons, of whom 1 is a 
physician. 

County Courts are held on the 2fZ 
Monday in every month; Quarterly 
!in March, June, Avgvsi and Novem- 
ber. 



086 EASTERN VIRGINIA— SURRY. 



Judge Scott holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 



Stafford Springs, P. U. in the- 
western part of the county, 104 ins 



ry on the 2d of June and November, from R. and 88 from W. 



SURRY. 

This county was created by the legislature in 1652, we are not 
able to ascertain from what county it was created. It is bounded N. W. 
and N. by Prince George, N. and N. E. by James river, which i^eparates 
it from Charles City and James City, E. and S. E. by Isle of Wight, S.- 
by Southampton, and S. W. by Sussex. Its length and breadth are nearly 
equal and about 18 ms., area 324 sq. ms. It extends in lat. from 26° 507 
to 37° ir N. and in long, from 0° 19', E. to 0° 18' W. ot W. C. The 
southern and western part of Surry slopes to the S. E. and is drained into 
Blackwater river, the N. E. part slopes towards the James. Population in 
1810, 6,855 — 1820, 6,594 — 1830, 7,109. It belongs to the 1st judicial cir- 
cuh, and 1st district. Tax paid in 1833, $1,261 04— in 1834. on lots, 
$2 19— land, $625 29—1,702 slaves, $425 50—861 horses, $51 66^^ 
studs, $26 00—19 coaches, $44 50—18 carryalls, $18 00—10 gigs, 
$64 35. Total, $1,257 49. Expended in educating poor children' iti 
1832, $374 27— in 1833, $263 18. - 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 

Bacon Castle, P. O, 70 ms. from mechanics are a cabinet maker and 
R. and 192 ms. from W. itailor. Two miles west of the towh 

Bailevsburo, p. O. 67 ms. S. E. ja cotton factory has recently gone in- 
of R. and 189 from W. [to operation which runs 250 spindles". 

Cabin Point, 47 ms. S. E. of R. [Population 44 persons : of whom 1 is 
and 169 ms. from W. C, situated in lan attorney and 1 a physician, 
the western part of the county nearlyl Count]/ Courts are held on the ith 
in the meridian of Washington. \Monday in every month: — Quarier- 

SURRY C. H. P. O. 60 ms. S. E.j/y in March, May, August and No- 
by E. of R. and 183 ms. a little E. ofjrcmAer. 

S. from W. It contains besides thej Judge Baker holds his Circuit 
ordinary county buildings, 4 dwelling'Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
houses, a tavern, 2 mercantile store.siry on the 2oth of April, and \5th of 
and a repository of public arms. The^Octobcr. 



SUSSEX. 

Sussex was created by the legislature in 1754, and taken from a part of 
thecounty of Surry. It is bounded on the N. by Prince George, N. E. by 
Sujrry, S. E. and S. by Southampton, and W. by Dinwiddie. Its length 
from S. W. to N. E. is 37 ms. ; mean breadth 16 ms. ; and area 592 sq. ms. 
It extends in lat. from 36° 42', to 37° 07' N. and in long, from 0° 02' E. 
to 0° 46' W. of W. C. The southern parts are drained into Three creek, 
a branch of Nottoway, — its central parts into Nottoway river, and its north- 



EASTERN VIRCUNIA— SUSSEX. 



287 



em parts into Blackwater river. Population in 1810, 11,3G2 — 1820, 
11,884 — 1830, 12,720. It belongs to the second judicial circuit, and first 
district. Tax paid in 1833, $2,729 44— in 1834, on land, $1,200 01 — 
4,067 slaves, 81,016 75—1,974 horses, $118 44—3 studs, $25 00—72 
coaches, $188 25—12 carryalls $12 00—257 gigs, $145 10. Total, 
$2,711 55. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $338 95 — in 
1833, $600 97. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, 6lc. 

. Coman's Well, P. O. 54 ms. S.lbesides the warehouse, are a hand- 
S>,E. of R. and 176 ms. from W. some and commodious building just 
Davis's Tavern, P. O. 50 ms. S. jcompleted, intended for a tavern, 1 



E. ofR 

Littleton, P. O. 66 ms. S. of R, 
and 188 ms. from W. 

MiLLBORo' P. O. 55 ms. S. S. E. 
of R. and 5 ms. S. E. of Sussex C. H. 
■ Parham's Store, P. O. 50 ms. S. 
&. E. of R. and 172 ms. from W. 

Stoney Creek Warehouse, P. 
O. 43jms. from R. and 1 65 ms. from W. 
This P. O. has baen recently moved 
from Rowanty creek, and is now situ- 
ated on the Petersburg Hail Road, 
immediately on the south bank of 
Rowanty creek, over which the Rail 
Road passes, by means of a bridge 
110 ft. in length, built on the lattice 
plan of Towns. The warehouse is 
one of the depots, substantially built 
with a turn- out station immediately 
through it. The house is 70 ft by 
30. The engine and cars pass thro' 
when ever necessary, to prevent the 
obstruction of each other, or loading 
and unloading, &c. The locomotive 
engines with their trains of cars and 
coaches pass and repass daily, with 
the exception of Sunday, when the 
train carrying the mail only has the 
privilege. The United States south- 
ern mail, together with the small 
mails for the adjacent post ofllces are 
carried by these locomotives. The 
produce of the Roanoke and the in- 
termediate country are transported by 
this road with facility, and in great 
quantity and variety. Five ms. S. of 
this place, the road passes Nottoway 
river, by means of a similar bridge 
of the same length and construction. 



mercantile store and the houses of 
several mechanics. In the vicinity 
are 3 houses of public worship, (2 
Methodist and 1 Baptist,) 4 well es- 
tablished grist and 2 saw mills. This 
depot is 9 ms. Avest of the C. H. and 
3 ms. from the junction of Stoney and 
Rowanty creeks, with the Nottoway 
river, — all of which streams afford a 
moderate supply of shad in their sea- 
son, and an abundance of small fish 
at ail times. The lands arc general- 
ly fertile and well adapted to the cul- 
ture of Indian corn, wheat, oats and 
tobacco. The neighboringlow grounds 
and swamps afford quantities of white 
oak and pine timbci, from which are 
manufactured an abundance of pipe 
and other staves, and sent by the Rail 
Road, together with other lumber to 
Petersburg. 

Judging by the progress of im- 
provement since the company built 
this warehouse, it is reasonable to an- 
ticipate, that at no distant day a thriv- 
ing and handsome little village will 
spring up. The neighborhood is 
supplied with excellent water, and 
thickly settled with industrious and 
wealthy farmers. 

SUSSEX C. H. P. O. 50 ms. S. S. 
E. of R. and 172 ms. S. W. of W. 
situated about the centre of the Co. 

County Courts are held on the \st 
Thursday in every month; — Quarter- 
ly in March, May, August and Octo- 
ber. 

JrDGE May holds his Circuit 
Superior Courts of Law and Chancery 



The improvements at Stoney creek, on the 10^/i of May wwi^ October. 



288 EASTERN VIRGINIA— WARWICK. 

WARWICK. 

Warwick was one of the eight original shires into which Virginia was 
divided by the legislature in 1634, under the name of Warwick river. It 
is bounded on the N. by York county, E. by Elizabeth City county, S. by 
James river which separates it from Isle of Wight, and W. by James City 
county. Its length diagonally from south east to north west is 18 ms. ; 
mean width 7^; and area 95 sq. ms. It extends in lat. from 37° 03', to 37° 
13' north, and in long, from 0° 22', to 0° 38' east of Washington City. It 
occupies a portion of the narrow peninsula which runs down between York 
and James rivers, and slopes towards the latter. Population in 1810, 1,835 
— in 1820, 1,608—1830, 1,570. It belongs to the third judicial circuit, 
and second district. Tax paid in 1834, on land, $170 64 — 544 slaves, 
$136 00—230 horses, $13 80—3 coaches, $8 00—2 carryalls, $2 00— 
36 gigs, $20 30. Total, $350 74. Expended in educating poor children 
in 1832, $20 42— in 1833, $57 81. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 

WARWICK C. H. P. O. 184 ms.f County Courts are held on the 2d 
S. E. of W. and 81 ms. S. E. by E. o{\Thurs day in every month; — Quarter- 



R. Besides the usual county build 
ings, there are only 2 dwelling 
houses ; 1 of which is a house of pri- 
vate entertainment, 1 general store, 
and I common school. Population 
21. 



ly in March, May, August and No- 
vember. 

Judge UpsiixTn holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the 29th of A-pril and Sej^t em- 
ber. 



WESTMOREI.AND. 

Westmoreland county is situated on the N. E. frontier of Virginia, 
and occupies an intermediate space in that range of counties embraced be- 
tween the Potomac and Rappahannock rivers — commonly designated as 
the Northern Neck. 

The first mention which has been found of this county is in an act* of 
the "Grand Assembly" of July 1653; by which Act, "It is ordered, that 
the bounds of the county of Westmoreland be as foUoweth, (viz.) from 
Machoactoke river, Avhere Mr. Cole lives, and so upwards to the falls of 
the great river Pawtomake, above the Necostin's tovvne." From the lan- 
guage of this statute it would seem that the county was previously in exis- 
tence; but it is not ascertained at what time it was taken from the older 
county of Northumberland (at first called Chicawane or Chickcown) 
which was established in 1648, and declared by an act of that year to 
contain the "neck of land between Rapoahannock river and Potomack 
river, t 

The large extent which was at first given to Westn.ioreland has been 
greatly diminished, so that at present it lies between 38° 29' N. lat. and 

* Henning's Stat, at Large, ,381. 
t Henning's Stat, at Large, 352. 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— WESTMORELAND. 289 

0=^ 30' E. long, from W.; and is bounded on the N. E. by the Potomac 
river on the N. W. by King George county, — on the S. by the Rap- 
pahannock and Richmond counties — and on the S. E. by the county of Nor- 
thumberland. Its length is about 30 miles, and its mean breadth 9^ ms. 
and is estimated to contain an area of 335 sq. ms. 

The county is indented by numerous water courses, chiefly tributary to 
the Potomac. The first in importance is Nominy (ot Nomini) bay, an 
arm of the Potomac, and extending five miles in lengtnard one in breadth. 
Its mean depth is 8 feet. It affords a safe harbor for vessels of small bur- 
den. Into this bay flows Nominy river, which is navigable for vessels of 
burden for about 7 miles from its mouth, and for boats two miles farther. 

1^\\G creeks running into the Potomac are — Monroe's, navigable for 
vessels and for boats for about 4 miles from its mouth ; Mattox, for ves- 
sels of burden as far as the bridge about 3 miles, and for boats 3 or 4 ruilea 
beyond ; Popes creek, navigable about 2 miles for boats only. These 
creeks are situated in the N. W. part of the county. To the N. E. are 
found, Ckantilly or Cold Harbor creek, navigable for boats only about one 
mile ; Lower Machodoc, four miles for vessels and for boats I mile higher. 

Into Nominy bay empty — Currisman creek, navigable about I mile.— 
Poor Jack, about 1 mile and a quarter; Smart's, about three-quarters of a 
mils by boats only. Buck?ier\s creek flows into Nominy river, and may be 
navigated by small craft for .3 miles, and 1 mile farther by boats; YocO' 
mica river receives the waters of Gar7ier's, Jackson's and Bomtw's creeks : 
the first navigable for 2 miles — the second for 1 mile and a quarter, and the 
last for one and a half miles for boats only. Glebe creek may be here 
mentioned, flowing into the Potomac midway between Buckner's and Yo« 
comico, and navigable for vessels of light burden for one or two miles. la 
the western part of the county Baldwin's and Brockenbrotigh's creeks rua 
into the Rappahannock. They are believed to be wholly unnavigable. 

Most of these waters abound with the finest fish, oysters and v.-ild fowl ; 
which furnish the means of subsistence to many of the poor, and spread 
the richest repasts* of luxury on the tables of the wealthy. 

The face of the county is" diversified by hills and flat land. A range of 
the former, pursuing a S' E. and N. W. course, penetrates the entire coun- 
ty longitudinally, and divides the waters of the Potomac and Rappahan- 
nock. Upon the summit of this range, at various intervals are situated 
several private mansions, from which can be seen in opposite directions 
the waters of the majestic Potomac, and of the gently meandering Rappa- 
hannock, with extensive plains intervening — exhibiting to the delightful 
eye of every lover of natural scenery, the m.ost beautiful and variegated 
landscapes. 

The soil on either river, and adjacent to the creeks, is fertile and produc- 
tive, and rem.arkably well adapted to the growth of Indian corn and wheat ; 
the two kinds of grain chiefly cultivated. That on the Potomac and its 
tributaries consists of a rich argillacious, loamy mixture. That on the 
Rappahannock contains a greater measure of sand ; and though not infe- 



♦ The good people of Westmoreland, however frugal and temperate in all things 
else, discover a highly epicurean taste for these "luxuries of the deep." Although 
so abundant and so accessible— they loose none of their value from this cause— but 
(are nevertheless held in the highest estimation — 

■ As if incvcftse of appetite greiv" 

■ By what it fed oa." 
37 



200 EASTERN VIRC4INIA— WESTiMORELAND. 

rior in fertility, is from this cause better suited to the production of corn 
than wheat. The middle or forest lands are, for the most part sterile — 
are covered with a thick growth of pine and cedar and exhibit all the 
symptoms of early exhaustion from the successive culture of tobacco, and 
neglect of improvement. They are not irreclaimable ; for experiment has 
proved that these lands are susceptible of the highest degree of improve- 
ment by the aid of clover and plaster ; and they have in many instances 
gratefully repaid the attentions of the husbandman by the production of 
ample and abundant crops. This is peculiarly the case with that section 
of the county which lies above, or to the N. W. of the Court House. And 
the same remarks will apply with nearly equal propriety to that portion, 
which is situated below, or to S. and S. E. of the C. H. 

Hitherto, indeed, but little regard has been paid to system in agricultural 
improvement. But within the last few years an honorable and praisc- 
Avorthy emulation has been excited among the farmers to excel in skill 
and industry : and whilst greater neatness and arrangement have marked 
this increased attention to the farming operations, more plentiful returns and 
an advanced fertility in the condition of the soil, are most happily mani- 
fested. 

Wheat and corn are the staple productions ; though other crops are 
gtown — such as rye, oats and cotton, &.C., which are principally used in 
domestic consumption. Cord wood (pine, hickory and oak, and some tan- 
bark, but chiefly the former) has been extensively exported from the county 
to the cities of the District, and to Baltimore, and has proved a source of 
lucrative commerce. It is estimated that upwards of 15,000 cords have 
been shipped in one year from the county. 

Westmoreland possesses but few antiquities or natural curiosities : and 
none of sufBcient interest and importance to distinguish its history, or im- 
part attractions to its geography : none from which the philosopher of na- 
ture or of man could glean new materials for useful remark or ingenious 
speculation, either to enlarge the circle of physical science, or to' illustrate 
the manners and customs of an antecedent race of human beings. 

Of the curioshies of nature the most interesting perhaps is the clifTs on 
the Potomac. These rise abruptly from the water's edge and form a pre- 
cipice of between two and three hundred feet high: — extending to a distance 
of more than four miles along the course of the river. In the sides of 
these cliffs at intervals from their base to their summit are found embedded 
the remains of various kinds of fish and other animals — denoting accord- 
ing to the received theory on the subject, an antediluvian existence of these 
animals. Many fossil remains have also been found deeply deposited be- 
neath the surface of the earth, far in the interior of the county and in a 
champaign region — some curious specimens of Avhich are in the possession 
of a gentleman residing near the Court house, Avho has made several rare 
collections of the kind. 

Though there is presented but little here of importance to arrest the eye 
of the stranger, yet to the citizen of the county there are some objects of 
peculiar aUraction and interest. These are the birthplaces and former resi- 
dences of some of the sons of Westmoreland and the most distinguished 
men of our country. The ruins of Chantilly, situated upon the Potomac 
— once the residence of Richard Henry Lee, are still exhibited. With- 
in a few miles of the same river and higher up may be seen Stradford, the 
family seat of the Lee's for many generations ; and latterly of Gen'l Henry 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— WESTiMORELAND. 29t 

Lee. On Pope's creek the srarr.ely disiingubhed remains of a house are 
discovered, which tradition designates as the spot on which the illustrious 
WASHINGTON was born.* In a few years these will have become 
obliterated, as they are now barely perceptible, and not a stone be left to 
point the inquisitive patriot to the place that gave birth to the "Father of 
his county." Ought not the spot to be rescued from the oblivion to which 
it is destined by the effects of time and the incursions of the ploughshare? 
Does it not merit from the hands of his countrymen a durable memorial of 
the incident by which it is marked? Let the public of Virginia answer. 
— At the head of Monroe's creek is a spot also known as remarkable for 
the birth of the late President James Monroe. 

In the Hall of Justice hangs a full length portrait of the Earl of Chat- 
ham. This painting was executed by Peel, and presented by Edmund 
Jennings, Esq. merchant of London, to the "Gentlemen of Westmoreland," 
in 1768, through the hands of R. H. Lee. The letters of Mr Jennings to 
Mr. Lee upon its presentation, are preserved in the clerk's office among the 
archives of the county. 

The picture repressnts Lord Chatham, in the costume of a Roman Sena- 
tor — with head, arms and legs bare, and holding in his left hand a copy of 
Magna Charta ; and obliquely to his right in the foreground is presented 
an altar with the flame of liberty issuing forth — and upon it desposited a 
civic wreath. 

But however destitute this county is of natural curiosities and works of 
art — yet there are events connected with her history, already partially al- 
luded to, which furnish abundant cause to .her citizens to exult in her fame, 
and justify them in claiming for their county the classical appellation of 
the Athens of Virginia, Some of the most renowned men of this coun- 
try Avere born within her borders. Of these may be mentioned Washing- 
ton, R. H. Lee and his three brothers, Thomas, Francis and Arthur, 
Geu'l Henry Lee, the late Judge Bushrod Washington, and the late Presi- 
dent James Monroe — names of the highest distinction for wisdom, patriot- 
ism, eloquence, learning, fortitude and valor, and which of themselves 
would render illu.strious the history of any country. To have given birth 
to these distinguished men and fathers of the American Republic, is a 
source of cherished pride and honor to the citizens of Westmoreland, and 
they refer to these incidents as constituting a brilliant epoch in the annals 
of their county — and as vindicating for it a clear and undisputed title to 
the classic name tiiey have appropriated to it. Should centuries elapse 
before it again attains distinction for its moral and intellectual character — 
it has acquired a fame venerable and immortal, that must descend conspicu- 
ous to all future ages. 

The population'of this county in 1810 was 8,102 — in 1820,6,901 — in 
1830, 8,411 — of whom 3,718 were whites— 3,845 slaves, and 848 free per- 
sons of color. It belongs to the fifth judicial circuit, and third district. 



* We subjoin tliis nolo from anotlr.'r poii : 

"General Wasliuigton was born on a plantat ion called Wakefield, now tlie pro- 
perty of John Gray, Esq. of Traveller's lle^t, lying on Pope'.s Creek, in AVesimore- 
land" county, Va. The house in which he fust saw light, was 300 yards from the 
creek, half a mile from its entrance into the Potomac. The mansion has long since 
fallen into ruins. Some of tiie trees of '-olden days," are yet standing around it. 
There is nothing at present to interest, except the' recollections that must crowd 
upon the mind, while contemplating the birth place of AViuhiuton.'' 



292 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— YORK 



Tax paid in 1834 on lots, 89 19-^land, 8806 92— 19fi:^ slaves, 8490 75— 
1045 horses, $62 70—3 studs, 838 00—34 coaches, 881 25—13 car- 
ryalls, 813 00—99 gig?, 658 45. Total, 81560 26. Expended in edu- 
cating poor children in 1833, 8240 46. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Hague, P. O. situated in the east- 
ern part of the county, 70 ms. S. E. 
of R., and 132 from W. 

HuTTSviLLE, P. O. 65 miles from 
R. and 127 from W. 

KiNSALE, P. O. 76 ms. from "R. 
and 138 from W. 

Leeds, P. O. 82 ms. from R. and 
104 S. S. E. of W. 

Oak Grove, P. 0. 88 ms. N. N. 
E. of R. and 98 S. of W. This 
post office has recently been removed 
from Mattox Bridge. Oak Grove is 
situated equidistant (6 ms.) from the 
Potomac and Rappahannock rivers, 
and one mile from Mat'ox creek. It 
contains 4 dwelling houses, 1 house 
of public worship, (Methodist,) 3 
mercantile stores, (and 2 others in the 
immediate vicinity,) 1 tavern, and 1 
house of private entertainment. The 
soil in the neighborhood is generally 
fertile and well adapted to the culture 
of Indian corn, wheat, tobacco, cotton, 
&c. Though the two first articles 
are almost solely cultivated : next to 
these the principal article of trade is 
wood] so brisk is the sale, and so large 
the supply, that 4 or 5 vessels and 
frequently more are continually load- 
ing at Mattox bridge. The facilities 
of commerce are so great with the 
District of Columbia, Baltimore, 
Fredericksburg and other places, that 
no large village can ever be expected 
to spring up here. The neighbor- 



hood is thickly settled, and country 
stores are to be met with at intervals 
of every 4 or 5 miles. The scenery 
of the surrounding country is beauti- 
ful and picturesque, and would well 
repay those who have money and 
leisure in paying a visit to this vicin- 
ity, not far from which is the birth- 
places of the illustrious Washing- 
ton, Marshall, Monroe, and other 
distinguished men. 

WESTMORELAND C. H. P. V. 
70 ms. from R. and 116 S. S. E. of 
W., situated near the centre of the 
county, being equidistant behveen the 
rivers Rappahannock and Potomac. 
The houses are but {ew, and arranged 
without regard to order or compact- 
ness ; of these 8 are built of brick, 
including the Court House, Clerk's 
office and jail, — the rest are of wood, 
very old and much dilapidated. It 
contains 2 general mercantile stores, 

2 taverns, 1 carriage maker, 1 sad- 
dler, 1 boot and shoe maker, and 1 
tailor. Population about 1 00 persons ; 
of whom 5 are resident attorneys, and 

3 regular physicians. 

County Courts are held on the 4/A 
Mo7iday in every month: — Qvarter- 
ly in March, J-ane, August and No- 
vember. 

Judge Lomax holds his Cirouit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the 21i/ of April and \?jth Oc- 
tober. 



YORK. 

York wa.^ one of the eight original shires into which Virginia, was di- 
vided by the legislature, in 1634. It is bounded on the N. by York river, 
which separates it from Gloucester, E. by the Chesapeake bay, S by Eliza- 
beth City and Warwick counties, and W by Jamei^ City county. Its mean 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— YORK. 



293 



lene^tli is 2G ms. ; mean breath 5^ nis.; and area 149 sq. ms. Il ('Xlends in 
lat Irom 37^ 08', to 37^ 23' N. and in long, from 0^ 12', to 0=^ 40' E. of W. 
This county occupie.s nearly lialf of the peninsula which is formed by the 
near approach of the York and James rivers ; but the .surface inclines to- 
wards the former, on which it lies. Much of the soil is good. Population 
in ISia, r),lS7--in 1820, 14,380—1830, 5,334. York belongs to the 3rd 
judicial circuit, and 2nd district. Tax paid in 1833, 8802 OG~in 1834, on 
lots, $31 G9— on land, $1,261 50—1,220 slaves, $305 00— 3G5 horses, 
j^33 90—5 studs, $20 00—12 coaches, $24 00—7 carryalls, $7 00—72 
gigs, $40 35. Total, $823 45. Expended in educating poor children in 
18"32, $292 G8— in 1833, $184 39. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 

U.A.LF-WAY-HorsE, P. O. 84 ms.j scenery. Population 282 persons ; of 
S. E. by E. of R. and 187 ms. from whom 1 is an attorney, and 2 are re- 



W., situated in the eastern part of the 
county, about l2 ms. S. E. of the C. 
H. and half a mile from Poquosin ri- 
ver. There are at this place 5 build- 



ings, 2 of which are old stores, not vember 



occupied at present, 1 public house, 
and 1 excellent dwelling house. The 
land in the neighborhood is fertile, 
producing well the ordinary staples, 
corn, wheat, oats, «fcc. The situation 
is pleasant and eligible, directly on the 



gular j)hysicians. 

County Courts are held on the Zd 
Monday in every month; — Quarter- 
ly in March, June, Augnat and No- 



Circuit Superior Courts of Law 
and Chancery are held on the24/Aof 
April and September, by Judge Up- 
shur. 

Before closing Eastern Virginia it 
may be interesting to the reader lo 



main stage road from Yorktown to! peruse a succinct account of the me- 
Hampton. Imorable events which took place at 

YORKTOWN, P. V. Port ofen-'Ahe siege of Yorktown during the re- 
tn/ and seat of justice, 72 ms. S. E.i volution, and whicli eventuated in the 
by E. of R. and 175 ms. S. S. E. of surrender of the whole of the English 
W. in lat. 37^ 14', and long. 0^ 30' army, under the command of Lord 



E. of W. C, situated immediately on 
the right bank of York river, 1 1 ms. 
above its mouth, and 33 ms. N. W. 
from Norfolk. Yorktown suffered 
considerably from a fire which occur- 
red during the last war, when most 
of the best buildings were destroyed. 



Cornwallis, to the combined Ameri- 
can and French army, under the com- 
mand of Washington, which was the 
closing scene of the American war, 
and the establishment of American 
independence. 

'I'lie following brief outline secm.<5 



together with the old Episcopal lo have been taken from the journal 
church. The present number ofjof an American officer, engaged in 
houses, besides the county buildings, ithe scenes which he describes, and to 



have been published in some peiiodi- 
cal about the year 1784 or 1785. 
Siege oj York and Gloucester. 

Sept. 15, 1781.— General Wash- 
ington arrived at Williamsburg; re- 
ceived the iMarquis de la Fayette's 

^^,^^„ command, and count St. Simon's 

ly situated in an open country, having' troops, which had arrived the 30th of 
a beautiful view of land and water August, with count de Grasse, and 



are 40, — the most of which are going 
fast to decay. It has several stores, 
1 house of public worship (Baptist,) 
1 school, in which are taught the ru 
diments of English education, 1 tan- 
yard, 1 cabinet maker, 1 carriage ma- 
ker, I house carpenter, and 3 black- 
smith shops. Yorktown is pleasant- 



294 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— YORK. 



landed at Jamestown tlie 3d instant. 

21. — First division of the northern 
army arrived in James's river. The 
23d and 24th almost the whole got in 
and landed. The 27th, the whole 
army moved, and encamped in a line, 
three quarters of a mile advanced off 
Williamsburg, distant from Yorktown 
1 1 miles. 

28. — The whole moved at day- 
light: after two halts, arrived within a 
mile and a half of the enemy's works: 
displayed and lay on our arms all 
night. Beaver pond creek, and mo- 
rass in our front, over which bridges 
were built that night: and general 
Muhlenbergh's brigade of light infan- 
try formed a picquet in advance. 

29. — About sunrise moved to with- 
in three quarters of a mile of the ene- 
my's out-works, and displayed into 
two lines, a ravine in front, to view- 
cur ground; advanced small parties 
in front to cover our reconnoitering 
parties. At four, P. M. moved to our 
ground on the right, and encamped 
>vithin range of the enemy's artillery 
in two lines; advanced a line of pic- 
quets in front, and increased our camp 
guards. 

30. — The enemy fearing v\-e should 
turn their left, and get between their 
out-works and the town, abandoned 
the whole of them, and retired to town 
a little before dajr-light, leaving a few 
light horse to protect tiieit rear. 
Colonel Scammel, being officer of the 
day, advanced to reconnoitre and re- 
port accordingly, when he was inter- 
cepted, wounded and taken, bv a few 
light horse, who had lain concealed. 
[He died of his wounds in six days.j 
Both lines were put in motion, and 
advanced with caution towards their 
works, suspecting some feint of tlie 
enemy. Lay on our arms all that 
night. The light infantry remained 
on the ground, as a covering party to 
the fatigued men, busied in erecting a 
chain of redoubts to guard our camp, 
and cover our working parties, who 
were occupied in procuring materials 
/or the siege 



31. — The light infantry relieved by 
Wayne's division this evening. The 
redoubts completed this niglu, and 
filled with a proper number of troops- 
October 1 to 6. — Employed in pre- 
paring materials, getting up our artil- 
lery, 6lc. At six o'clock, moved on 
the ground, and opened our first pa- 
rallel, about six hundred yards from 
the enemy's works, under cover by 
day-light. No accident. Continued 
working till mornings. 

7. — The light troops entered in line 
reversed, with drums beating, and co- 
lours flying; planted their standards 
on the top of the line of the parallel; 
continued working on the batteries, 
which were completed about five 
o'clock. 

9.-^-P. M. the enemy received the 
first shot from us, which was contin- 
ued with spirit from cannon and mor- 
tars. The enemy's fire slackened. 
Several of their guns were dismount- 
ed: and they were obliged to fill up 
their entrenchments. 

10. — Light infantry mounted: and 
the Charon of 44 guns and two smaller 
vessels, were burned by some hot 
shot from the left of the line, com- 
manded hy count St. Simon. This 
happened about eight o'clock in the 
evening, the weather being serene and 
calm, and aflbrded an awful and me- 
lancholly sight. The Charon was on 
fire from the water's edge to her truck 
at the same time. I never saw any 
thing so magnificent. 

11. — In the evening, the second 
parallel opened by B. Steuben's di- 
vision. This parallel was carried on 
with amazing rapidity, at 360 yards 
distance from the enemy's batteries, 
under a very heavy fire, the enemy's 
shot and shells directed at the work- 
men : our shot and shells going over 
our heads in a continual blaze the 
whole night. The sight was beauti- 
fully tremendous. We lost but one 
man, shot by our own men, the gun 
not being sufficiently elevated, or 
being fired with a bnd osrtridge. 



EASTERN VIRGhMA— YOltK. 



295 



I2tli, 13lli, and I hh. Continued 
completing the batteries of the second 
parallel, and wounding their abattis, 
and frize-works with our shot and 
shells. About two o'clock, P. M. the 
out defences of two redoubts, that 
were advanced on their left 250 yards 
in their front, were thought sufficient- 
ly weakened, to attempt them that 
evening by storm. The light infan- 
try were relieved, and directed to re- 
fresh themselves with dinner and a 
nap. About dusk, they moved on, 
under the Marquis, and were in pos- 
session of one, in nine minutes. The 
other was carried by the French 
grenadiers and light infantry, under 
baron Viomenil, nearly about the 
same time, when the second parallel 
was continued on, and enveloped these 
two redoubts, and finished a line ol 
communication between the rights of 
the first and second parallel of up- 
wards of a mile, before day-light next 
morning. The whole of this was 
performed under a very incessant and 
heavy fire from the enemy, with 
amazing steadiness and expedition. 

15. — Employed in repairing the 
redoubts, and erecting batteries, now 
within reach of the enemy's grape, 
rifle and wall-pieces. 

16. — This night, a timid, ill con- 
ducted sortie was attempted under 
lieutenant-colonel Abercrombie, with 
about six hundred men. They en- 
tered the parallel about the centre, 
nearly between the French and Ame- 
rican troops, at a battery erecting by 
the Americans, not completed. They 
killed a sarjeant and two privates of 
captain Savage's company of artillery: 
spiked six guns with the end of their 
bayonets, which they broke off in the 
vent-holes; turned about ; and went off 
with the greatest precipitation. In 
their retreat, they were pursued, and 
lost twelve men — six killed, four 
wounded, two taken : the light infan- 
try in the trenches. Lord Cornwal- 
lis, in his account of the matter, says 
our loss was iipwards of 100. , 



17. — Light infantry still in the 
trenches. Between ten and pleven, 
A. M. chamade beat, and propositions 
for surrender sent out by his lordship: 
received by the Marquis, and for- 
warded to head-quarters. Cessation 
of firing about twenty minutes, till 
flag had returned within their works. 
On our resuming the fire, a second 
chamade beat: and the officer return- 
ing, was told that the answer, as soon 
as received from head-quarters, would 
be forwarded. The firing on both 
sides re-commenced, and went on as 
usual, only small intermissions, du- 
ring the passing of two or three let- 
ters from each side. Light infantry 
relieved by the baron Steuben's divis- 
ion : and the business being concluded 
that evening, the firing ceased about 
five o'clock% P. M. The 18th and 
part of the 19th, taken up in adjusting 
matters, viz. articles of capitulation, 
public letters, &c. 

19. P. M. — They marched out and 
laid down their arms. The whole of 
the king's troop, including sailors and 
marines, amounted to 8,054, officers 
included. 

Thus ended this business, in nine 
days from our breaking ground. 

The whole of our strength, includ- 
ing every person that drew provisions 
by the commissary-general's return, 
amounted to 12,200. Our loss was 
324 killed, wounded and died in the 
hospital; sick in the hospital about 
GOO; unfit for duty, 830. So that 
when the necessary detail of the Avhole 
army was completed, his lordship was 
never opposed by more than an equal 
number. Very frequently, from our 
great fatigue, parties at a considerable 
distance from the camp, and trenches 
two miles, had he come out to us, we 
could have opposed him with but 
very few more than two thirds of his 
number. This, I believe, will be al- 
lowed by any officer of discernment, 
who was acquainted with the details 
of the victorious combined army. 



WESTEEM VIRGINIA. 



INTRODUCTION. 

Perh.vi'.s no section of country of th« same extent, possesses greater 
natural advantages than that portion of the State of Virginia west'.vard of 
the Bine Kidge Mountain. Possessed of a climate the most salubrious 
and invigorating-, and a soil happily adapted to the production of almost 
every thing- usefixl to man, nothing- is wanting but industry to render this 
one of the fairest agricultural portions of the globe. The vallies of the 
Shenandoah, the Upper James river, the Kanawha and Holston, found in 
this portion of the commonwealth, present a field almost unrivalled for the 
exertions of an industrious and enterprising population. Some of these 
as yet, are comparatively unreclaimed and in a state of nature; but the time 
is not distant, when under the invigorating influence of wise atjd salutary 
regulations, they will be seen teeming with the products of enterprise and 
industry. But Western Virginia is not remarkable only for agricultural 
advantages. Her fossil and mineral wealth is no where equaled; iron, 
lead, gypsum, coal, and salt, are found in different places in this region, 
some of which have already become a fruitful source of commerce and of 
•wealth. Other and similar sources of Avealth may still be buried and con- 
cealed from the eye of man in our extensive forest regions. The salt of 
the Kanawha and Holston, after suppljang the home consumption, is 
already an article of extensive and profitable commerce upon most of the 
western waters. The iron of the valley, the excellence of which is readily 
admitted, would soon become a staple of commerce and a source of wealth 
to that section, did the improvements of the country supply the required, 
facilities for the transportation of so cum.bersome an article. These enu- 
merated m.anufactures, though already claiming notice from their conse- 
quence, are to be regarded as yet in their infancy, compared with the rank 
they will hereafter attain, in numbers and extent, should the increasing" 
com.merce and enterprise of the country call forth their resources. Witti 
the exception of the commercial channels which nature has provided as 
outlets for them., our productions, whether manufactured or agricultural, 
are and must be limited to a narrow region of country snrrounding them. 
This will continue to be the case until the country becomes aroused to the 
necessity of following the example of our sister con'imunities. in opening 
additional and much needed line^ of commercial intercourse. 
08 



398 WESTERiN VIRGINIA— INTRODUCTION. 

Had nature been even more bountiful than she has to this favored region, 
still if her gifts are neglected or unimproved, no benefits result to the 
community. Such is in fact the condition of Western Virginia. We possess 
natural advantages in abundance, every thing for skill and enterprise and 
industry to work upon, but no corresponding results such as are elsewhere 
exhibited, are any where seen. 

This state of things merits an attentive consideration and demands an 
adequate remedy. Let the citizens of Western Virginia arouse themselves, 
and harmoniously unite in efforts to improve their condition and bring into 
active and profitable exercise the numerous discovered and undiscovered 
sources oi wealth with which our country abounds. 



GENERAL DESCRIPTION, 



This division of the commonwealth, as recognized by the constitution of 
1830, extends from the Blue Ridge to the Ohio, and contains forty-five 
counties, with an area of 38,900 square miles, equal to 24,896,000 acres. 
The population in 1830, was 378,475, of which the free inhabitants num- 
bered 324,988, and the slaves 53,437 — shewing an increase of nearly 25 
per cent in the first class, and nearly 24 per cent in the second, within the 
preceding ten years. 

This sparse population oi less than ten souls to a square mile, is not 
owing to either a want of salubrity in the climate, or of fertility in the soil, 
but to adventitious causes which time is progressively removing. The 
early policy of the general government in bringing large bodies of the 
public domain into market, at very low prices, and on long credits, with 
the recent diminution of three-eights of the former prices placed on those 
lands, have e.xercised a very important control over the settlement and con- 
.sequent improvement of this part of Virginia. The nearer districts of 
level and fertile land in the New States, are howeA-er receiving a sufficient 
population to give increased value to the soil, and the government sales at 
more distant points become less sensibly felt ; but should the threatening 
efforts now making to employ the Public Lands as a bounty to draw off 
the inhabitants of the old States, by giving new homes to all who will 
occupy them, at merely nominal prices, prove successful, no portion of 
the original states will feel the effects more sensibly than Virginia, and par- 
ticularly the district under consideration. The retarded population of the 
western counties, has also been owing in some measure to the unsettled 
state of the land titles ; an evil which recent legislation has gone far to 
remove. By an act of the 5th of February, 1831, the limitation in writs 
of right is reduced to twenty-five years : and in actions of ejectment, to 
fifteen years: and by an act of the 10th of March, 1832, a lein is given on 
lands, in favor of the occupant thereof, for the value of the improvements 
which may be made thereon, before notice of the adverse title. The first 
of these laws gives safety and security to the great body of the land-hold- 
ers, and the second gives full remuneration for all the improvements in the 
event of an eviction ; they were called for by the condition of the country, 
and will no doubt give confidence to future immigrants, as well as invigo- 
rate the industry of the present inhabitants. No climate can be more 
favorable to health and longevity ;' the temperate latitude and elevation of 
the country; protect it in a great measure from the extremes of heat and 
cold, and when they occur, they are very rarely of inconvenient duration. 

The face of the country presents an uneven surface, owing to the ranges 
of mountains which intersect it froni the northeast to the southwest, and 



300 GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF 

which occupy much of the territory from the North mountain, and skirts 
the large limestone valley of Virginia, to the Cumberland and Laural Hill 
chain. These mountains rise from two to three thousand feet above the 
ocean, but are neither sterile, or unusually steep; on the contrary they are 
generally covered with the finest timber, and abound with kinds denoting 
high fertility ; the vallies are frequently extensive, and present to the eye 
the most beautiful and majestic scenery. The soil of tliis district consists 
of almost every variety. The great limestone valley of Virginia, extend- 
ing from the Potomac to the county of Montgomery, near two hundred and 
fifty miles in length, and from twenty to forty miles in width, is perhaps 
not surpassed in the abundance and variety of its agricultural products, by 
any district of the same extent in the Atlantic Stales. 

From the North mountain, to the \yestern chain ot the Alleghanies, formed 
by the continuing links between the Cumberland and the Laurel mountains of 
Pennsylvania, the country presents a series of ridges and well watered 
vallies, the latter generally rich, and the former not unfrequently oflering 
easy slopes to cultivation and for pasture. Along the sununit of the mid- 
dle range much high table land is found, and considerable portions of it 
free from timber, and covered with grass. Some of those natural meadows 
are of large extent, and serve as pasture, for numerous herds of horned 
cattle. Although the western division of Virginia may throughout be em- 
phatically denominated a grass country, yet it no where else equals the abun- 
aant and nutricious productions annually displayed upon those elevated table 
lands, and whether the grazing farm is prepared by enclosing and reclaim- 
ing the natural meadows; or by^freeing the ground of its forest trees, the 
prodiict is equally certain and abundant. The country extending from the 
Cumberland and Laurel range of mountains to the Ohio river, is generally 
broken ; but interspersed with extensive districts of land sulTicieritly level 
for agricuhural purposes, and of which industry is annually bringing large 
portions into cuUure. 

The Ohio and Potomac, as well as their large tributaries, are proverbial 
for the rich alluvial lands which border those streams. These bodies of 
very fertile and almost inexhaustible low grounds, vary in width from a 
few hundred yards to one and tv.-o miles. Sufllciently undulating to pass 
the water from their surface, and generally elevated above the freshets to 
which the western rivers are liable. 1'hese alluvial tracts arc admirably 
adapted to the culture of hemp, tobacco. Indian corn, and turnij)s, and after 
a few years yield very fine crops of wheat, barley, rye, oats, potatoes, Slc. 
The upland as before remarked, is frequently rough and broken, but gene- 
rally not so much so, a.s to prevent its employment in cultivation and pas- 
ture, when advancing population shall require its use for those purpo.ses ; 
the highest and steepest hills are well adapted to the growth and produc- 
tion of many of the most valuable species of the grape, and on their sides 
the mulberry flourishes v.'ith peculiar vigor, h may not therefore be unrea- 
sonable to anticipate the time, when wine and silk will be ])rc)minent arti- 
cles of the export from this region of country. 

The principal agricultural products of the western district of Virginia, 
at this time, are wheat, rye, oats, barley, buck wheat, hemp, flax, tobacco 
and corn, v.-ith abundant supplies of indigenous and exotic grapes. 'J"he 
grazing and feeding farms, which stand next in importance, export annual- 
ly a large amount in neat cattle, horses, mules, hogs and sheep, besides 
beef, bacon, lard, butter and wool. Of the products of the foreot, the west- 



WESTERN VIRGINIA. 301 

em counties furnish much the larger portion, consisting- of pfonsanfr, fur, 
pel.ries. venison iiams, staves, limber, jjiank, and cord wood on the rivers 
navigated with stea nboats. The manufactories, althoug-h in tlieir infancy, 
yield considerahie supplies to other States, in flour, salt, leather, and former- 
ly of lead. 

" Mountains are the mothers of minerals," and the country from the 
B!u3 Ridge to the Ohio river, fully verifies the truth of the aphorism. Al- 
though this district has as yet, but slightly attracted the notice of the scien- 
tific mineralogist, many of these useful metals and fossils have been 
discovered, and in some instances brought into extensive use. Iron is 
found in abundance on the waters of the Potomac, Shenandoah, James, 
Jackson and the Roanoke rivers, and at many places on the upper branches 
of those streams, is manufactured to great extent, and with corresponding 
advantage; on New river, or the Upper Kanawha and its tributaries, this 
valuable mineral abounds, and of the best qualities ; it is also found in very 
encouraging quantities and exhibiting fine appearances, convenient to the 
waters of the Great and fjittle Kanawhas, Monongahela, Elk, Gauley, 
Guyandotte and Sandy rivers. The ores which have been discovered, pre- 
sent almost every variety, but those apparently most abundant, are the com- 
pact brown ore, the brown hematite, and specular ores. 

The salt district of Virginia, passing west of the Alleghany range, and 
nearly in a parallel course with those mountains, t'urni.shes this important 
article in greater -or less abundance, in the counties of Harrison, Lewis, 
Kanawha and Washington. In the two latter counties, however, are situ- 
ated the principal manufactories j that of Kaoawha, supplying about one 
million and a half of bushels per annum, and the Washington works about 
100,000. An analysis of the Kanawha water, gives 35 mur. of lime — 2 
car. of iron — 1 free car. acid — 56 chloride of sodium and bromide of cal- 
cium — and 956 moisture. 

The water used in the manufactory of salt in the county of Washing- 
ton, contains less of (he muriate, and more of the sulphate of lime, and a 
larger portion of the chloride of sodium. Lead of considerable quantities 
v/as long since discovered in the county of Wythe, and was formerly much ■ 
u.sed in commerce, but owing to the expensive land carriage Avliioh had to" 
be encountered in conveying it to market, and to the opening lead mines 
more lavorafjly situated on the MissLssippi, those of Wythe have in a great 
measure fallen into disuse. 

Extensive beds of exifrangible gvpsum are f(unid on the upper Lranche.s 
of the Holston, but are comparativelj-^ useless from the want of convenient" 
and cheap lines of tran.«portation ; and the same remark applies to the 
quarries of very superior luihr stone, shuated near Christiansburgh, in the 
county of Montgomery. 

The coal formation of the western part of Virginia, is limited on the 
Kentucky border, to the country lying between the Cumberland range, and 
the Ohio river — extending to the northeast, the coal district spreads from 
the Ohio, as far ea.stwardly as the neighborhood of Westernport on the 
Potomac. 'J'hroughout this entire tract of country, bituminous coal pre- 
sents itself in great abundance, in beds varying in thickness, from a few 
inches to 12 and 15 feet; attended every where by micacious sand-stone, 
conglomerate rocks, and clay slate, the latter abounding in vegetable im- 
pres.'^ions. At the salt wells on the Great Kanawha, as well as at many 
natural springs within the coal region, napthu is found tloating on the -.ur^ 



302 GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF 

face of the water in considerable quantities. Anthracite Coal, to which 
Pennsylvania is indebted Cor the rapid extension of many ot her important 
manufactories, as well as tlie great enlargement of her interior commerce, 
has been recently discovered in the counties of Berkley and Morgan. 
Still more recent researches have ascertained the existence of this valuable 
mineral, apparentlj'^ in extensive bodies, in the counties of Rockingham 
and Augusta, from which it is probable that the great Valley of Vir- 
ginia will ere long become as celebrated for the extent of its manufactories 
as it is now proverbial for its large agricultural products. 

As this district undergoes more thorough examination, and its mineral 
resources become farther developed, it will probably disclose as extensive 
masses of iron and coal in the same vicinhies, as now distinguish South 
V^ales ; and although the bituminous coal may contain more volatile matter, 
and less charcoal, than the Welch furnace coal, the value of the tar and. 
pitch which it will yield, may more than compensate for the comparative 
deficiency of carbon. 

No quarter of the world presents a greater variety of mineral waters, 
than this portion of Virginia. Medicinal springs are almost as numerous 
as the counties, but it will suffice to notice those which have attracted the 
greatest share of public consideration, and which receive annually the 
greatest number of visitors. In the large limestone valley immediately 
west of the Blue Ridge, are the Berkley and Morgan springs, the Shenan- 
doah springs, the Augusta springs, and the Botetourt springs. They are 
usually attended by a respectable number ot A'isitors, and the medicinal 
effects of the waters have giv^asome reputation to each of those fountains. 
The county of Bath is distinguished by the Warm and Hot springs, situ- 
ated within five miles of each other, and upon the principal road leading 
east and west, through Virginia, the great bath at the Warm Springs is 
universally admired by all Vv'ho have enjoyed the luxury of its tepid and 
buoyant waters. 

This copious fountain of hydrosulphurous water, rises within the walls 
of the bath, and preserves a uniform temperature of 90° of Fr. The baths 
of the Hot springs differ in temperature, from 51° to 107°, and belong to 
the thermal saline class. These fountains may be justly placed at the 
head of the thermal waters of the United States, and from their use, the 
happiest effects have been produced in cases of chronic rheumatism and 
hepatic affections of long standing. 

In the adjoinmg counties of Greenbrier and Monroe, aie situated the 
White Sulphur, the Salt Sulphur, and the Red Sulphur Springs; they are 
classed as cold hydrosulphurous waters; the first is peculiarly distinguish- 
ed for efficacy in cases familiarly denominated bilious and liver complaints ; 
the second for the removal of dyspepsia, and all affections of the stomach, 
whether connected with the state of the liver or not: the third has a high 
reputation from the peculiar influence which its waters exercise over pul^ 
monary affections. 

The Sweet Springs are also in the county of Monroe, near the eastern 
base of the Alleghany. This fountain, like the Berkley springs, is cold, 
acidulous or carborated, and yields a copious stream of the temperature of 
73° of Fr. The Sweet springs have acquired a fashionable and well 
merited celebrity ; the water is believed to be particularly serviceable in 
the variety of the dyspepsia, accompanied bv gastrodynia or spasm. In 
.secondary debilily of the digesiivo canal, from the exhau.'^ting heats of sum- 



WESTERN VIRCilNlA. 30S 

mer, or in chronic diarrhea or dysentery, without fever, or not sustained by 
hepatic inflammation, the internal use of these waters have produced the 
happiest etlects. These hio;hly valuable fountains of health arc so con- 
veniently situated as to enable the visitors to alternate their use, with great 
advantage and satisfaction ; and the several proprietors have so extended 
their means of accommodating company, and added so many comforts and 
beauties to their respective establishments, that they are now annually at- 
tended by a large concourse of fashionable people from the valley of the 
Mississippi, and from the middle and southern States, as well as by inva- 
lids from almost every quarter of the Union. A Spring on Muddy 
creek, in Greenbrier county, heretofore visited by but few persons, as the 
accommodations have been very limited, is beginning to attract much pub- 
lic interest from the highly salutary influence which the waters have pro- 
duced in aggravated cases of scrofula. The favorable results experienced 
by persons suffering under this afflicting and inscrutable disease, induced 
a number of gentlemen in 1833, to unite in the purchase and improvement 
of the property; and measures are now in progress for erecting extensive 
and convenient buildings, and for giving to this spring as many attractions 
as are found at the most fashionable medicinal fountains. 

Many natural curiosities of an interesting character are to be found be- 
tween the Blue Ridge and the Ohio. Those most known are Weyer's 
and Madison's Caves, near the Shenandoah river, and about two miles from 
Port Republic. These wonderful caverns are both subterranean openings 
in the same limestone hill. The first has been explored to the distance of 
900 yards, and the latter has been penetiated to the depth of 120 yards. 
Madison's cave has been much disfigured by the manufacture of salt- 
petre, to which it was for some time appropriated. Weyer's cave is how- 
ever in a fine state of preservation ; the entrance is narrow, but the cavern 
enlarges as it advances under the hill, until some of the apartments present 
an extent of floor equal to 300 by 200 feet, with majestic ceiling springing 
to the height of 80 and 90 feet. The drippings of this cave are not suf- 
ficient to affect the lights which are neces.sary to its examination, or to in- 
commode the visitors. The deposits of lime dissolved in the water, forms 
stalactites of ahnot-t every shape, and of every variety of beauty — curtains 
descending in wave-like folds from the ceiling to the floor — plain and 
fluted columns — colonades, various resemblances of household furniture, 
and marble statues, which require but little imagination to give them fair 
proportiono, and the habiliments of the ancient Romans, are among the 
pleasing objects with which the sight of the visitor is regaled ; the colors 
are for the most part v.-hite, but sometimes red, and occasionally variegated. 
When illuminated, the cave presents one of the most magnificent scenes in 
nature. There are two other caves in this limestone district that are as yet 
but little know»» but are said to be equal if not superior in beauty and 
magnificence to Weyer's cave. One of these is called Alluis Cave — the 
other is near the top of a small mountain called Cave Hill, situated one 
mile west of I.Airay, (county seat of Page.) Allen's cave is situated in 
Shenandoah county, a short' distance from Front Royal. Descriptions of 
these caves will be found in the counties in which they arc locafed. 

The Natural Bridge over Cedar Creek, in the county of Rockbridge, 
which rises 270 feet; the Natural Tunnel, in Scott county, and the grand 
and majestic scenery at and around Harper's Ferry, attract visiters from 
considerable distances. The Blowing cave, near the Cow Pasture river* 



304 GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF 

..which constantly sends forth a strong current of air: and the cbbn^g and 
-flowing, or Syphon spring, on the estate of the late Capt. John Lewis, in 
the same valley, are objects of examination with most of the investigating 
travellers who visit that part of the State. On the -low grounds of the 
Great Kanawha, about seven miles above Charleston, are several fissures 
in the earth through which constant streams of carburetted hydrogen gas 
are discharged. These are called burning springs, as the earth is so de- 
pressed around them as to collect and retain the water in or^Jinary seasons, 
and which is kept in active ebulition by the gas which is discharged 
through it ; when inflamed, this gas burns with a pale blaze at the surface 
of the water, when it mixes with the atmosphere, until it is extinguished 
by a strong current of air. This is by no means a rare production of 
4iature in this district, as considerable issues of it are found on Big Sandy, 
and Little Kanawha rivers, and in boring for salt water on the C4rcat Ka- 
nawha, the discliarges of carbureted hydrogen have been so great and con- 
tinued, as to compel in one instance, the abandonment of the work. 

That part of the Great Kanawha which is above the mouth of Gauley, 
•having to search its intricate way, and force its passage through a chain of 
lofty and rugged mountains, exhibits a series of the most stupendous clifTs 
from the mouth of Greenbrier to Gauley river, particularly Avhere Gauley 
mountain is riven to its base by this stream in its passage to the Ohio ; at 
this point, and near the great western turnpike, those cliiTs present them- 
selves frequently to the eye of the traveller in majestic grfindeur. One of 

'the most lofty and perpendicular was formerly designated by a hawk's nest 
on its side, but is now called "Marshall's Pillar," commemorative of the 
laborious and perilous voyage of the Chief Justice in his examination of 
this river in 1812. From the flat rock forming the summit, to the agitated 
waters below, the view is fearfully grand : few of the many who visit it, 
can look over this dizzy height but in a reclining position ; the elevation is 
estimated by engineers at from 750 to 800 feet, but no actual admeasure- 
ment has yet been made. 

The sparse population of many parts of the country, has heretofore pro- 
duced its usual effects in relation to education ; schools however have been 
annually multiplying, and with the aid afforded by the literary fund, pri- 
mary instruction is generally diflused, and becoming m.ore elevated in its 
range. Well organized academies are established in many of the coun- 
ties, and those of Frederick, Augusta, Washington, Greenbrier, Kanawha, 
and Harrison, particularly deserve notice. Washington College in Rock- 
bridge, justly ranks among the most useful and di.^tinguishcd of the south- 
ern seminaries. It received a most serviceable addition to ils funds by a 
devise from Gen'l George Washington, which was followed by a be- 
quest of a large estate from Mr. John Robinson, one of its early patrons, 
and more recently a donation of the funds of the Cincinnati society of 
Virginia. Thus liberally founded, and supplied with able professors, 
this institution contributes largely to the learning and intelligence of the 
country. 

Commercial roads and navigable canals are greatly wanted As yet the 
government of Virginia has comparatively done but little towards improv- 
ing the rivers and roads of this district. Among the works constructed 
under the direction of the State, is the James and Kanawha turnpike, 
leading from Covington to the town of Guyandotte on the Ohio, and to 
the mouth of Bier Sandy river. This road passes by, or near, the principal 



WESTERN VIRGINIA. 3#5 

mineral springs west of the Alleghan}'^ ; the work is approaching comple- 
tion on the westi?rn end, and its extension is in progress eastward by the 
Hot and Warm Springs to tlie town of Staunton in Augusta. Incomplete 
as the work is, this road forms one of the most important avenues of inter- 
course between the eastern and western waters ; it is much used in ordi- 
nary travelling, and in the transportation of property ; and at this time 
daily lines of stage coaches find full employment upon the route. They 
are connected in the conveyance of passengers with the steam boats of the 
Ohio, and those of the James and Potomac rivers. On the western end, 
even this provision for the accommodation of passengers has been found 
insufficient, and a tri-weekly line has been added between the Ohio river 
and the White Sulphur Springs, during the visiting season. Under the 
direction, and with the funds of the State, a like road has been located from 
Winchester to Parkersburgh, on the Ohio, which when finished will con- 
fer important advantag-es on the northwest counties. 

To a joint stock company aided by the State, the Valley of Virginia 
has been much indebted for the improvement of the navigation of Shenan- 
doah river. The work undertaken by the company has been so far com- 
pleted, as to draw to that river an accession of trade which has increased 
the tolls from B604 in 1827 to87,691 in 1831 — continuing to improve 
with each .succeeding year. The Chesapeake and Ohio canal, although 
passing up on the nortli side of the Potomac, confers important advantages 
on the northern border of the State, and will as it advances westward still 
further invigorate and extend the agricuUural industry, and enlarge the 
commercial operations of the Virginia counties within its influence. 
These works undertaken, or fostered by the commonv\-eahh, hov/ever use- 
ful, are but of minor character when compared with the important enter- 
prize on which the government of Virginia has long deliberated, of draw- 
ing a fertilizing portion of the commerce of the Western States, to her 
eastern cities. °0f this enterprize so long meditated and so fully discussed, we 
find the following account given in a memorial addressed to the General 
Assembly in 1828. " The Legislative Declaration, that next to the enjoy- 
ment of 'civil liberty itself, it might be questioiied whether the best organ- 
ized government could assure to those for whom all governments are in- 
stituted, a greater blessing than an open, free and easy intercourse with 
one another, by good roads, navigable rivers, and canals ; that their ten- 
den.cy, by extending commerce, promoted the agriculture of a nation, and 
thereby augmented its wealth and population; — satisfied us that these 
great interests of Virginia were no longer to be neglected, andthatas many 
of the other States v/ere advancing in wealth and num.bers with a rapidity 
which had astonished themselves, the ancient and elder sister of the Union 
would remove the reproach of her remaining stationary." 

"This manifest determination of the Legislature to improve the vast ad- 
vantan-es po'?fJ3sscd by the common^vealth, seemed to be based on consid- 
erations of so fixed and durable a character, that but little doubt was en- 
tertained by your memorialist of the achievement of the great work of 
connecting "the eastern and western waters of Virginia, by navigable canals 
and turnpike roads of the most permanent conctrnction, when Avater con- 
veyance was unattainable, this measure had entered largely into the views 
of the proprietor of the land on which the City of Richmond and the town 
of Manchester now stands, and as early as the year 1767. was adverted 
to by that distinguished individual, in his proposition for the sale of the 
39 



§03 GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF 

jots of those towns, in strong and prophetic terms. The practicability 
and vast advantages of opening this line of communication to the western 
frontier of the middle colonies, were dwelt upon as matters of great inter- 
est to.the future prosperity of Virginia. Our Washington was scarcely disen- 
.gaged from the toils of ihe camp, when turning his capacious mind to the 
objects' tending to promote and secure the public happiness, made a com- 
munication to Gov. Harrison, in which the incalculable importance of con- 
necting the eastern and western waters of Virginia, was enforced Avith 
zeal, and supported by considerations combining the present with the 
future, which must have resulted in the immediate undertaking of the 
\York, but for the exhausted state of the Treasury. Our venerable Jeffer- 
son, partaking in the view of his distinguished friend, and equally desirous 
of improving and exalting his native State, made an eflbrt to secure to this 
great work the influence and active direction of the father of his country; 
deeming its magnitude sufficient to invite his superintendence, and its com- 
.jvletion the happiest monument of his retirement." 

_;• "The continued interest manifested by our citizens in almost every quar- 
ter of the State, and the improved condition of the Treasury, induced the 
Jjegislature in 1813-14 to organize a commission for exploring and re- 
.-{Kjrting on the practicability, utility and expense of efTecting this long con- 
templated connevjon, and for ascertaining the best means of securing to 
.."Virginia a due participation in the rich trade of the West. The report of 
CJir distinguished fellow-citizen, the Chief Justice of the United States, 
g'^lth that of other gentlemen designated with him to perform that duty, 
fully realized the previous anticipations, and furnished the strongest induce- 
.«^ente for the execution of the work. The war with Great Britain, in 
Jivhich.we were then engaged, however, compelled its postponement. The 
conflict, over, the government of Virginia resumed this interesting sub- 
-;^ct, and after various examinations of all its details by the most experi- 
enced engineers, and with the fullest development of all its branches, by an 
act bearing date the 17th February 1820, dttcrmined upon the execution 
of the entire work, from the tide water of James river to the confluence of 
the Kanawha and Ohio, providing by law for the completion thereof in 
t^e following order. 1. To render the Great Kanawha navigable at all 
seasons of the year, for boats drawing three feet water, from the great falls 
to the Ohio river. 2d!y. To improve the navigation of James river, from 
ticle. water to Pleasani's Island, by locks and navigable canals, affording at 
all seasons of the year, at least three feet depth of navigable water. 3dly 
•To make the best road practicable, at an expense of $100,000, from the 
iiiouth.of Dunla^o's crcek,to the great'falls of Kanawha. 4thly. To make 
navigable locks and canals, from Pleasant's Island to Dunlap's creek, fur- 
nishing at least the same depth of water for the entire distance. A mea- 
sure so important in its influence over the future destinies of the State ; 
originating with the sages of the countrj^ the fathers of the land ; sustain- 
ed and approved by the wisdom of successive Legislative bodies; its prac- 
ticability demonstrated by the combined science of the best qualified engi- 
neers, could not but be regarded as irrevocably determined on ; the period 
of its completion to be hastened by all the resources of the commonwealth. 
Such were Unquestionably the convictions of the Legislature of 1819-20, 
and of your memorialist."' 

Notwithstanding the previous determination of the Legislature, and the 
strong inducements presented for reanimated action on the part of the gov- 



WESTERN VIRGINrA. it:" i^t 

eminent, eight pears of plans and deliberations have passed by. One 
project after another has been proposed, considered and abandoned, whi^e 
two short sections of canal on the margin of James river, and the abovtiV« 
attempt to improve the navigation of the Great Kanawha, remains the 
monument of that indecision and procrastinating polic3^ which has stripped 
the commonwealth of her elevation in the family of States, and is so rapid- 
ly sending her people to seek new homes, where the "blessings next to 
civil liberty" are not only proclaimed, but practically secured. While the 
pen is tracing these brief notes, the General Assembly is engaged in de'- 
liberations upon this subject ; but whether their labors will result in anotiie'r 
abortive attempt to put this work in progress, or in the provision of ade- 
quate means for its entire execution, on a scale of usefulness and durabili- 
ty, worthy of the ancient commonwealth, and commensurate to the advan- 
tages which it ought to confer on her sister States, is extremely doubtful.* - 

If Virginia should ever resume this great Avork Avith ardor and reason- 
able unanimity ; and pursue it with constancy of purpose to its final com.- 
pletion, it must produce a new era in her history, and entirely change the 
destiny which now seems to await her. 

Among the liigh considerations that so strongly prompt her to the em- 
ployment of her resources and credit in achieving this great viK)rk, the fol- 
lowing are perhaps the most prominent. 

The certain participation in a large portion of the commerce of the 
\%-est, the value of which is attested by the expenditures and-eflbrt-s of other 
States to become partakers. The development of her exhaustless mineral 
resources, and the consequent extension of* important manufectories into 
every section of the country. The giving to her agricultural and planting 
interests the highest stimulus — the creation of a rich and fertilizing inte- 
rior commerce, sustaining in return the most extensive foreign trade. The 
rapid increase of her population with the comfort and weahh -which must 
attend them — and the speedy and permanent advance in the -'value of the 
entire landed property of the State. Those of a political character are 
scarcely less important. Its connecting influence upon the States them- 
selves and upon the two great divisions of Virginia, noAv hanging but 
loosely together, must be apparent to all, and if the Union is ever destined 
to crumble, such a line of intercommunication, with the connections and 
aseoeialions to which it must give rise, cannot fail to unite in the same des- 
tinies, the southern States, and those of the Great Valley of the Missi&T. 
sippi. , '.'[' 

~ *Since this was written, the Legislature pa.ssed the act allowing the patriotic arid 
enterprising corporation of Richmond to take ,'$250,000, in addition to their previou.s 
subscription of S400,000, and taking the remaining $500,000 for the Slate ; by which 
acts the whole amount of $5,000000 is .subscribed, which was necessary to secure the 
charter of the James River and Kanawha Compaiiv, and the successful prosecutiofl 
of this great work ensured. 



WESTERN VIRGINIA. 



ALLEGHANY. 

Alleghany was created by the legislature in 1822, and formed from 
portions of Bath, Bottetourt and Monroe. It is bounded N. by Bath and a 
small portion of Greenbrier, E. by Rockbridge and Bottetourt, S. by Mon- 
roe, and W. by Greenbrier; its mean length is 26 ms. ; mean breadth 20 ; 
and area 521 sq. ras. It lies between ]at. 37° 35', and 38° N. and the cen- 
tre about 3° W. long, from W. C. Most of this county is a high mountam 
valley, drained by the head waters of the James river. Poti's and Dun- 
lap's creeks rise 'in Monroe and flow N. E. until they unite with Jackson's 
river near Covington, about the centre of the county. Jackson's river rises 
in Pendleton, and flowing S. through Bath, enters Alleghany, passess the 
gap between Peter's and the Warm 'Spring mountains, receives Pott's creek 
from the S., and then turns first N. E. and then after turning the N. E. 
flank of Rich Patch mountain, it flows S. E. into Bottetourt. Coiv-Pas- 
ivre river rises also in Pendleton, flow^s by a tortuous channel, nearly due 
S. through Bath and Alleghany, and unites with Jackson's river, soon after 
it passes into Bottetourt. These two rivers by their union constitute the 
James. Much of the surface of this county is covered with mountains; its 
mean level exceeds 10,000 ft. above the tides of the ocean. The mam Al- 
leghany chain forms its boundary on the W. Pefer^s mountain and Warm 
Spring mountain divide the county into nearly two equal parts, having only 
a narrow gap at Covington. Poh or Middle mountain and Ricli Patch, 
form its boundary on the S. E. Besides these continuous ranges, there 
area number of "others filling up the intervals, such as Oliver, Morris, 
Beard's, &c. The staples of the county are grain, and its products gene- 
rally the same as other counties situated in the same latitude. Population 
in 1830, 2,816. It belongs to the 17th judicial circuit and 9th district. 
Tax paid in 1833, $473 15— in 1834 on "lots, $39 26— on land, $273 42 
—348 slaves, $87 00—926 horses, $55 56—2 studs, $13 00—7 coaches, 
$12 00— 5 carryalls, $5 00— 2gigs, $1 00. Total, $488 24. Expended 
in educating poor children in 1832, $87 00— in 1833, $166 47. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 

Calahan's P. O. 196 ms. from R. confluence with the Cow Pasture, 
and 238 ms. from W., situated at the! and directly opposite the termination 
junction of roads leading to thejof the Kanawha turnpike road. It 
Warm, Sweet and White Sulphur! contains besides the county buildings, 
Springs. :50 dwelling houses, and about the 

COVINGTON, P. V. and Seat' same number of mechanic shops. 
o/jMS/ice, 191 ms. W. of R. and 233 The buildings are principally of 
S. W. of W. Covington is situated atj brick, and in some of them much taste 
the head of the James river navigation I is displayed; 2 handsome and spa- 
ou Jackson's river, 15 ms. above its cious houses of public worship are 



WESTERN VIUOIMA— AI.LEcaiANY. 



809 



about being erected, ( I Presbyterian 
and 1 Methodist,) 1 English and 
Classical school, and 3 mercantile 
stores. The mechanics are tanners, 
saddlers, boot and shoe makers, hat- 
ters, tailors, gunsmiths, house carpen- 
ters, cabinet makers, wagon makers, 
copper smiths, chair makers, black- 
smiths and last makers. Its situation 
is handsome and eligible, on one of 
the greatest thoroughfares in Virgin- 
ia, as travellers from E. to W. pass 
throuofh this place to the Virginia 
Springs, it bemg nearly equi-distant 
from several, viz : — 20 ms. from the 
White Sulphur, 22 from the Sweet 
Springs, 25 from the Hot Springs, 27 
from the Warm Springs and 45 from 
the Salt Sulphur. Should the con- 
templated James and Kanawha im- 
provements be carried into operation, 
Covington may become one of the 
most flourishing inland towns in Vir- 
ginia, as it will probably be the place 
of depot between the land and water 
communication; and it likewise will 



command the trade of a large and fer- 
tile region of country, which abounds 
in all the products of the earth; and 
the mountains, of which abound in 
iron, and present sufficient water 
power, to force any quantity of ma- 
chinery. Its situation is healthy, 
being located in the midst of the 
mountains. Property in this place 
has lately advanced 25 per cent in 
anticipation of the contemplated im- 
provement. Population about 300 
persons; of which 3 are attorneys, 
and 2 regular physicians. 

County Courts are held on the' 
od Monday in every month. Quar- 
terly in March. June, August and 
November. 

Judge Taylor holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the 18//i of April and Se^^ 
tember. V^. 

Jackson River, P. O. 178 ms. I^? 
of R. and 221 S. W. by W. of W. 

Morris Hill, P. O. 181 ms, W. 
of R. and 227 from W. 



AUGUSTA. 

Augusta county was originally a portion of Orange county and coutinv, 
ued so, until it became sufficiently populous to claim the rights of a sepa^' 
rate, independent county, which rank was given to it in 1738. The first 
court after it was laid "off from Orange was held in Staunton, in the year 
1745, and its jurisdiction extended from the summit of the Blue Ridge ta 
the Ohio river, including the present state of Kentucky, and from the James 
river to Frederick. ^ 

As the population increased, it became necessary to divide this immense 
tract into various counties, at dilTerent times, until it assumed its present 
shape and size in the year 1790. 

The summit of the Blue Ridge forms the eastern boundary, until it strikes 
the line of Rockbridge, the line then runs a straight course in a N. E. di- 
rection, crossing the North mountain, until it reaches the summit of Walk- 
er's mountain, following this and the Cow Pasture mountain in a N, W^ 
course, it strikes the corner of Rockingham, and runs thence in a S. W/ 
direction, a straight course to the Blue Ridge. 

The length of Augusta county is about 34 ms. : the breadth 35, — and its 
area about 348 sq. ms. extending entirely across the Valley. The surface is 
generally uneven, — in many places hilly ; and in some instances it rises 
into eminences that deserve the name of mountains. Towards the north- 
ern boundary, however, it spreads out into more extensive bottoms ot very 



310 WESTERN VIRGINIA— AUGUSTA. 

rich and fertile land. The soil is best adapted to agriculture and grazing. 
Large quantities of grain are raised for exportation, and there are within 
the county, 17 merchant mills, which are almost exclusively employed in 
manufacturing flour for this purpose. Cattle are also exported in conside- 
rable numbers. 

Although this county is well watered and abounds in fine springs, there 
are no very large streams, from the fact, that it is the highest land in the 
Valley, and divides the head waters of the James and Shenandoah rivers. 

The great Calf Pasture river runs through nearly half of the county, 
and wends its way in a S direction to the James river, while the north, 
middle and south rivers, (the last two of which run nearly through the 
whole extent of the county) meet near the northern boundary, and form the 
Shenandoah. Christian's and Lewis' creeks are branches of the Middle 
river, and Mossy creek of the N. These streams are all valuable, on ac- 
count of numerous mill seats upon them, which are always abundantly sup- 
plied with water. 

The mineral treasures of tliis county, have been but partially developed. 
Very little interest has been felt on this subject, except so far as it has been 
(juickened by a hope of gain. Iron ore beds have been known and profita- 
bly worked for many years; and there is at present a furnace for the manu- 
facturing and casting of iron in active operation; Miller's Iron Works, 
near the northern boundary, at the foot of the North mountain. 

Anthracite coal has lately been found in the vicinity of the Augusta 
Springs, and along the North mountain. It contains a portion of sulphur, 
though it becomes more pure as the excavation progresses, and gives pro- 
mise of affording an abundant supply of this valuable mineral. 

The predominant rock in this part of the A^alley is lime rock, which in 
some places is sufficiently hard to be used as marble, though it is not worked 
as such. In connection with this rock may be found rhombic chrystals of 
carhonite of lime, and dog-tooth spar: the latter rarely. In the vicinity of 
Staunton, a species ofcalcedony in great quantities is .scattered about: some 
of which is very pure. 

Springs are very abundant in all parts of the county, some of which are 
mineral and highly medicinal. 

The Augusta Springs are valuable, as a resort for invalids, and are daily 
becoming more noted. They are 12 ms. N. W. of Staunton, situated in a 
delightful country. The water is strongly impregnated Avith sulphuretted 
hydrogen, and are said by those who should be judges, to equal the cele- 
brated springs of Harrowgate, in England. Besides the Augusta Springs 
there are two other Sulphur Springs in the county, both of which are equal- 
ly strongly impregnated; but there are few, if any accommodations for visi- 
tors at either of them. One is on the Free turnpike leading from Staunton to 
the Warm Springs, 17 ms. from S. ; the other on the old road, 18 ms. from 
Staunton. 

A Chalybeate Spring has recently been discovered very near the Augus- 
ta Springs, but it has never been analyzed. 

About 12 ms. S. W. from Staunton, is a large spring that ebbs and flows 
daily; — there arc two similar springs in Bath. 

The whole of Augusta county is based upon lime rock, — and from the 
nature of that rock, necessarily contains many curious fissures, excavations 
and caverns. Only two of these, however, deserve a notice, Madison'-s and 
Wr-'ver'.'- cave'? wiiirji are both situntpd in tlip pamf -ridff,', and are but SOO 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— AUGUSTA. Zif 

yards apart. Madison's cave has been described by Jefferson,* in his notes 
on Virginia, but Weyer's has been described and explored since that time, 
and is liir more worthy of being immortalized. The length of this this stu- 
pendous Cavern in a straight course is 1650 ft., but the distance is more than 
doubled by following the various windings. There are numerous apart- 
ments, some of which arc magnificent. One measures 257 ft. in length, from 
10 to 20 in breadth, and 33 in height,— another is 153 ft. long, 15 wide, and 
60 high, while a third reaches the height of 100 feet ! Every part is stud- 
ded with beautiful stalactites, that lead you almost to believe that you have 
descended into the jewelled fruit garden, Avhere hung Alladin's lamp.f 

*We extract a portion of Mr, Jeflerson's descripticn which is referred to in the 
text, and give al.'^o some later information concerning Madison's Cove, " It is situat- 
ed on the N, side of the Blue Ridge, near the intersection of the Rockingham and 
Atigusta line, with the south fork of the suiUhern river of Shenandoah. It is in a 
hill of about 200 ft, perpendicular height, the ascent of which, on one side is so steep 
that j'ou may pitch a biscuit from its summit into the river which washes it.s base. 
The entrance of the cave, is in this side, about two-thirds of the way up. It extends 
into the earth about 300 ft., branching into subordinate caverns, sometimes a.^scending 
a little, but more generally descending, and at length terminates in two different 
places, at basins of water of unknown extent, and which I should judge to be nearly 
on a level with the waters of the river; however, I do )iot think they are formed by 
refluent waters from that, because they arc never turbid; because they do not rise and 
fall in correspondence with that, in times ot flood and of drought; and because the 
water is always cool. It is as probably one of the many reservoirs with which the 
interior parts of the earth are supposed to abound, and which yield supplies to the 
fountains of water, distinguished from others only by its being accessible. The vault 
of this cave is of solid limestone, from 20 to 40 of M ft. high, through which Avater is 
continually percolating. This, trickling down the sides of the cave, has encru.sted them 
over in the form of elegant drapery; and dripping from the top of the vaults generates 
on that, and on the base below, stalactites of a conical form, some of which have met 
and formed massive columns." 

Madison's Cave derives its name from the father of the late Bishop Madison, who 
resided near it, and who was equally famed for his hospitality, his practical wit, and 
his convivial disposition. It has been known 70 or 80 years, but is now little visited 
as a curiosity, — the earth in it, alTords salt petre in proportion of from 2 to 4 pounds 
to the bushel. — 2000 weight was manufactured here during the years 1813-4. The 
earth when brought otit is at the mouth of the cave put into a plank gutter which 
conducts it to the bank of the river, at the bottom of the hill, where it is put into tubs 
or vats mixed with wood ashes — water is passed through it, and this is evaporated to 
salt by boiling. The lakes of water which are found at the extremity of the cave 
have been navigated by a boat, and thoroughly explored, since Mr. Jefferson wrote; 
they are 30 or 40 ft. deep, and are bounded on the furthest extremity by rocks so 
abrupt that a footing can no where be had. 

tWeyer's Cave is situated near the northern extremity of Augusta county, Va. 17 
ms. N. E. of Staunton, on the eastern side of a ridge runnnig nearly N. and S. parallel 
to the Blue Ridge, and somewhat more than a mile distant from it. 

The western declivity of this ridge is very gradual, and the visiter, as he approach- 
es from that direction, little imagines from its appearance, that it embowels one of 
Nature's master pieces. The eastern declivity however, is quite precipitous and dif- 
ficult of ascent. 

The Guide's house is situated on the northern extremity of this ridge, and is distant 
800 yds. from the entrance of the cave. In going from the house to the cave, you 
pass the entrance of Madison's Cave, which is only 200 yds. from the other. Madi- 
ison's Cave was known and visited as a curiosity, long before the discovery of Wey- 
er's, but it is now passed by and neglected, as unworthy of notice comjiared with its 
more imposing rival, although it has had the pen of a Jeflcrson to describe its beauties. 

The ascent from the bottom of the hill to the mouth of the cave is steep, but is ren- 
dered less fatiguing, by the zigzag cour.se of the path, which is 120 yds. in length. 

It seems that about the year 1801, one Bernard Weyer ranged these hills, as a 
hunter; while pursuing his daily vocation, he found his match in a lawless Ground 
Hog, which not only eluded all his efforts but eventually succeeded in carrying off the 



312 WESTERN VIRGINIA— AUGUSTA. 

Population in 1820, 16,742—1830, 19,926. Augusta belongs to the 
12th judicial circuit and 6th district. Tax paid in 1833, $6659 24 — 
in 1834 on lots, $470 80— on land, $4,343 09—2,443 slaves, $610 75— 
9,360 horses, $561 60—48 studs, $421 00—78 coaches, $187 85— 1 
stage, $3 00— carryalls, $69 95—58 gigs, $39 15. Total, $6,717 19. 
Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $883 59— in 1833, $963 74. 

traps, wliich had been set for his capture. Enraged at the loss of his traps he made 
au assault upon the domicile of the drepredator, with spade and mattock. 

A few moments labor brought him to the ante-chamber of this stupendous cavern, 
where he found his traps safely deposited. 

The entrance originally was small and difficult of access; but the enterprise of the 
proprietor, has obviated these inconveniences: it is now enclosed by a wooden wall, 
having a door in its centre, which admits )rou to the ante-chamber. 

At first it is about 10 ft. in height but after proceeding a fe\v yards, in a S. W. di- 
rection, it becomes contracted lo the space of 4 ft. square. 

At the distance of 24 ft. from the entrance, — descending at an angle of 19 degrees ; 
you reach the Dragon's Room, so called from a slalactitic concretion, which the No- 
menclator undoubtedly supposed to resemble that nondescript animal. 

Above the Dragon's room there is an opening of considerable beauty, but of small 
size, called the Devil's Gallery. 

Leaving this room, which is not very interesting, you proceed in a more southerly 
direction, to the entrance of Solomon's Temple, through a high but narrow pcssage, 
66 ft. in length, which is by no means difficult of access. Here you make a perpen- 
dicular desceiu of 13 ft. by means of substantial stairs securely fixed, and you find 
yourself in one of the finest rooms in the whole cave. It is irregular in shape, being 
30 ft. long, and 45 broad, running nearly at right angles to the main course of the 
cave. As you raise your eyes, after descending the steps before jnentioned they rest 
upon an elevated seat, surrounded by sparry incrustations, which sparkle beautifully 
in the light of your caudles. 

This is not linaptly styled, Solomon's Throile. Every thing in this room , receives 
its name from the Wi.>e Man ; immediately to the left of the steps, as you descend, you 
will find his Meat-house; and at the eastern extremity of the room, is a beautiful pil- 
lar of white stalactite, somewhat defaced by the smoke of candles, called by his name, 
yet with strange inconsistency, an mcrustation resembling falling water at the right 
of the steps, has obtained the name of the Falls of Niagara. 

Passing Solomon's Pillar, you enter another room, more irregular than the first, 
but still more beautiful; it would be impo.ssible adequately to describe the magnifi- 
cence of the roof. I shall therefore merely observe that it is thickly studded with 
beautiful stalactites, resembling in form_ and color, the roots of radishes, which have 
given the appellation of R.vdish Room to this delightful place. 

The niain passage to the rest of the cavern, is immediately opposite to the entrance 
to Solomon's Temple, and you reach it by an ascent of 1-3 ft. to what is called the 
Porter's Lodge. From this place, purstting the same coitrse, you pass along a pas- 
sage varying from 10 to 30 ft. in height, from 10 to 15 in breadth, and 50 in length, un- 
til you reach Barxey'.s Hall wliich receives its name lioin the fancied resemblance 
of a prostrate stalactite, at the base of one that is upright, to old Commodore Barney, 
and the cannon that he used at the Bladensburgh races. 

Near the centre of the room, which is small and scarcely deserves the name, an 
upright board points out to the visiter the main path of the cave, which rims to the 
right. Two passages run off to the lel't, — the first one So a large, irregular room cal- 
led the Lawyer's OrriCE, in which is a fine spring, of Avaier or rather a reservoir 
where the droppings from the ceiling have collected,— the other, through a passage to 
what is called The Armohv, from an incrustration that has received the name of 
Ajax's Shield. Between the Lawyer's Office and the Armory, and communicating 
Avith both, is another large, irregular apartment, which is named Weyek's Hall, af- 
ter the original discoverer of the cave, who together with his dog, stands immortal- 
ized in one corner. 

Before wc get bewildered and lost in this part of tjic cave, A^hich is more intricate 
than any other, let us return to the guide-board in the centre of Barney's Hall, and 
pursue the route usually taken by visiters. Following the right hand opening meit- 
tioned above, Avhich is rather low being not more than 5 ft. in height, you pass into 
the Twin Room, taking heed lest you fall into the Devil's Bake Oven, which yawns 
close by your feet. This room is small, and communic3,tes directly with the Bannis- 
ter Roo.M, wliich is 59 ft. distant from the guide-board. The arcli here suddenly ex- 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— AUGUSTyV. 313 

TOWNS. VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Augusta Springs, P. O. 17 ms. 
N. N. W. of Staunton, 134 nns. N. W. 
by W. of R. and 176 from W. The 
waters have valuable medicinal qual- 



ities, which have been spoken of in 
our account of the county. 

Deerfilld, p. O. 148 ms. from 
R. and 190 S. W. of W., situated on 



pands, and becomes elevated to the height of 30 ft., and by dint of hard climbing you 
may return to the Porter's Lodge, through a passage directly over the one which you 
have just passed. There are many beauties in this upper pas.sage. 

A descent of 39 ft. from the Twin Room, in a direction due west, brings you into 
the Tan Y.\rd, which contains many beauties. The floor is irregular, in some places 
sinking into holes someM^hat resembling tan-vats, which together with several hang- 
ing stalactites resembling hides, have given a name to this immense apartment. On 
the S. E. side of the room, immediately to the left of the main path, is a large opening 
which admits you at once into the Armory, already mentioned. 

Changing your course to the N. W. you leave the Tan Yard, by a rough, but not 
difficult ascent of 20 ft., at an angle of 18 degrees, into what may be considered as an 
elevated continuation of the same room, but which has been deservedly dignified 
with a distinct appcllalion. 

To your right, as you step upon level ground, you will observe a perpendicular 
wall of rock, rising with great regularity; if you strike upon it with your hand, it 
sends forth a deep, mellow sound, strongly resembling the tones of a Bass Drum, 
whence the room has received the name of the Drum Room. Upon a clo.ser exami- 
nation, this apparent wall will be found to be only a ihm stalactitic partition, extend- 
ing from the ceiling to the tloor. 

There is nothing else of much interest, in this apartment, we will proceed to the 
more magnificent portions of the cavern. 

You leave the Drum Room by a flight of natural stairs, 7 ft. in perpendicular 
height. A large opening now presents itself, which expands to an extensive apart- 
ment, to reach which it is necessary to make a nearly perpendicular descent of 10 
ft., by means of a substantial pair of stairs. This apartment is the far famed Ball 
Room. It is 100 ft. long, 3G wide, and about 25 high, running at right angles to the 
path by which you entered it. 

The general course of the room is from N. to S. but at the northern extremity there 
is a gradual ascent, bearing round to the E. until you reach a precipice of 20 or 30 
ft., from which you can looic down into the Tan Yard, having performed a complete 
circuit. 

Near the centre of the Ball Room, is a large, calcarious deposite, that has received 
the name of Paganini's Statue, from the circumstance that it furnishes a good posi- 
tion for the music, v.'henever balls arc given in these submundane regions. The 
floor is sufiiciently level to admit of dancing upon it, and it is not uncommon, to have 
balls here. The "ladies are accommodated with a very convenient Dressing Room, 
the only opening to which, communicates directly with the Ball Room. 

You leave this room, by a gradual ascent of 42 ft. at the southern extremity, simi- 
lar to the one already described at the other. This acclivity is called the French- 
man's Hill, from the following circumstance :— Some years since, a French gentle- 
man visited this cave, accompanied only by the guide; they had safely gone through, 
and returning had reached the top of this hill, when by some accident both of their 
lights were extinguished, and they were left in Egyptian darkness, without the means 
of re-lighting their candles. 

Fortunately the Guide, from his accurate knowledge of localities, was enabled to 
conduct him safely to the entrance — a distance of more than 500 ft. 

Another gentleman, by the name of Patterson, has immortalized his name by at- 
tempting the same feat, although it was a complete failure. Hearmgof the French- 
man's adventure, he undertook to find his way back to the entrance, from the Ball 
Room, without a light— sending his company some distance ahead. Hs succeeded 
in ascending the stairs, but had proceeded only a few paces farther, when his feet 
slipped from under him, and he was prostrated into an aperture, where he lay unhurt 
until his companions, alarmed at his protracted absence, returned for him. His rest- 
ing place is called Patterson's Grave *to this day. 

From the French Hill, a long, irregular passage extends, in a N. W. direction 
which is denominated the N.vkrow Passace. This passage is 52 ft. m length —vary- 
ing from 3 to 5 ff. in width,— and from 4 to 8 ft. in height. It leads you to the briiik 
of a precipice, 12 ft. in height. 
40 



ill 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— AUGUSTA. 



the waters of the Calf Pasture river, 
in the CaU" Pasture Valley, between 
the North and Cow Pasture moun- 
tains, 4 ms. E. of the county line of 
Bath ; on the main stage road between 
Stauntoa and the Warm Springs, 26 



ms. W. of the former, and 29 E. of 
the latter. The Warm Springs and 
Harrisonburg turnpike also passes 
Beerfield. It contains a tavern, mer- 
cantile store and blacksmith's shop. 
Greenville, P. V. 133 ms. N. 



Natural indentations in the face ofthis precipice, afibrd a convenient means of de- 
scent, and these natural steps have received the name of Jacob's Ladder. To corres- 
pond with this name, as in Solomon's Temple, every thing is named after the Patri- 
arch; a flat rock opposite to the extremity of the Narrow Passage, is Jacob's Tea 
Table; and a deep, inaccessible perforation m the rock, by its side, is Jacob's Ice 
House ! Descending the ladder you turn to the left, and pass through a narrow open- 
ing, still continuing to descend though less perpendicularly, to the centre of a tmall 
apartment, called the Dungeon. The descent from the top of the Ladder to this 
place is 28 feet. 

This room communicates, by a passage about 4 ft. sq. with the Senate Chamber. 
A thin flat rock, stretches over nearly half of this apartment, which is only about 40 
ft. in diameter, at the height of 8 or 10 ft. from the floor, forming a sort of Gallery, 
which doubtless caused the name already mentioned, to be given to the room. 

The Senate Chamber communicates by a high, broad opening, with a still larger 
apartment, denominated Congress Hall. 

This name must have been given, on account of its proximity to the last mentioned 
room, and not from any thing particitlarly appropriate in the room itself. It is long, 
and like the Ball Room, runs iiearly at right angles to the main path, — its course being 
nearly N. and S. and a wall, having several openings, runs through its whole length. 
The main path winds to the left as you enter the room, but we will diverge a little to 
the right, and explore the daik recess that presents itself to vieAV. 

The floor of Congress Hall is very uneven, and at the northern extremity rises 
somewhat abruptly. Climbing tbis.ascent if you pass through one of the opcning.s in 
the wall mentioned above, 3'ou will be able to see through the whole extent of the 
other half of the room, but it is impossible to traverse it, on occount of two or three 
deep pits, that occupy the whole space between the wall and the side of the room. 

Turning around to the right ot the opening through which you passed, your eye 
vainly attempts to penetrate the deep, daik abyss that presents itself, and you hesitate 
to descend. Its name — The Infernal Regions, does not offer many inducements to en- 
ter it, and for many years, ft has been supposed to contain fixed air, so that visiters 
avoid it, and it has never until recently, been thoroughly explored. 

Our course now lies to the S. W. up a perpendicular ascent of 17 ft., to what is 
called the Lobby. From this place, an expert climber, well acquainted with the 
cave, may pass through secret passages, and bye rooms, to the end of the cave, Avith- 
out once entering the main path, btit we will pursue the accustomed route. You 
have ascended to the Lobby, only to descend again on the other side, after taking a 
few steps horizontally. A perpendicular descent of 17 ft., brings you to the most 
magnificent apartment in the whole cavern. 

This is Washington's Hall, .so called in token of respect for the memory of our 
Country's Father, and it is worthy of bearing the name. Its length is 2.57 ft., its 
breadth from 10 to 20 ft., and itsjieight about 33 ft. being remarkably level and 
straight, through the whole length. 

Not far from the centre of this room, is an immense deposite of calcarious matter 
rising to the height of 6 or 7 ft. which, very strikingly resembles a statue clothed in 
drapery, "rhis is Washington's Statue, and few can look upon it— as seen by the 
dim light ot two or three candles Avhich rather stimulate than repress curiosity, Avith- 
out experiencing a sensation of aAve and solemnity, as if they Avere actually in the 
presence of the mighty dead. 

A fcAv yards from the entrance, another room branches off" to the left, to reach 
which you must ascend a bank of 5 or 6 ft. in height. This is called the Theatre 
irom the fact that diflorcnt parts of the room correspond to the Gallery, Stage and 

I have said tlial the breadth of Wasliington's Hall Avas from 10 to 20 ft.; this must 
'>n ""^^^■?^"'^", oi'ly of flie ioAver part, of the room, for the arch stretches over a rock 
20 It. high, which forms the left Avail, and embraces another room called Lady Wash- 
ington s Hall. The entrance to this apartment, is opposite to the Statue, and is on 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— AUGUSTA. ?l-5 



W. by W. of R. luul 1 7o from VV. It 
is pleasantly situated in the southern 
part of the county, 11 ms. S. S. VV^. of 
Staunton, and within a mile and a 
half of the. head of South River, Avhioh 



there is an extensive nnianufactnring 
(lour mill, and a wollen manufactory. 
Two physicians reside in the vicini- 
ty. The town contains about 50 
welling- houses, 3 general stores. 2 



runs through the town ; and on which taverns, 1 academy, 2 lanyards, 2 sad- 

the same level with the Hall. The wall that separates the two rooms, is several feet 
thick, and has received the stranp;e name of The Rock of Gibraltar. 

You leave this splendid apartment, at the S. W, extremitj'-, by a rough, narrow but 
high pa';.sai^f, nmning at the foot of Uie Pyramids of Egypt and Cleopatra's Needle! 
At the end of thi.s passage, in a recess at the rigjit, is anotlier Spring or reservoir, not 
as large as the one in the Lawyer's Oliice. A descent of 8 or 10 ft. brings you into 
the Di.\Mo\D Room, which may be considered as forming ft part of The Chcrch, a 
long, irregular room, more lofty than any that we have yet entei-ed. Its length is 152 
feet, its breadth from 10 to 15, and its height 50! 

At the farthest extremity, a beautiful while spire shoots up to a. considerable height, 
which is appropriately styled The Steeple, and has, no doubt, suggested the name of 
the room. Nearly oppo.^ite to the centre ot the Church, is a recess, raised several ft. 
of considerable extent. 

This forms a very gj )1 Criliory to the Church. Immediately in the rear of the 
Gillery, and in full view from below, is a great number of pendant stalactites, of 
several ft. in length, and of various sizes ranged like the pipes of an organ, and bear- 
a striking resemblance to them. 

If thcie stalaclitcs arc struck by any hard substance, they send forth sounds of va- 
rious pitches, according to their size, and a stick run rapidly along several of them 
at once, produces, a verv pleasing varietv of sounds. With great propriety this is 
called The Organ. 

Passing under the Steeple, which rests on an arch elevated not more than 10 feet, 
you enter the Dixing Room. This room is nataed from a long natural table, that 
stands on the left side, and is not quite as large as the Church, though its height is 60 
ft. Was it not for the kind of wall which the Steeple makes, it might be considered as 
a continuation of the Church, and its length is therefore included in" that of the 
Church. A little to the left of the table is a small uninviting opening. Proceeding 
only a few paces through the opening, vou suddenly find yourself in an immense 
Chamber, stretching from i\vi Gallery of the Church with which it communicates, 
parallel to the Dining Room, to its ut'mo.-t extremity, and proportionably Avidc. This 
is called Jackson's Room, and the floor is very irregular. 

This room is rather uninteresting, but it leads to one that deserves a passing nqtice. 
Directly opposite the little passage" which conducted you hither, is a large opening; 
passing this, the rocks contract iintil only a narrow pass is left, a few feet in lengtn. 
This conducts you, if not to the most magnificent, at least to the most beautiful and 
interesting portion of the whole cavern. There is but one apartment and that is 
small, but The GvnDKN- of Ede.v, for so it is called, derives its beauty from the singu- 
lar arrangement of the immense stalactites, hangin? from the roof, and meeting the 
stalagmites, whicli ha\-o ascended from the floor to meet them; or in few -lyords, it 
seems as if at som: former period a sheet of water had poured dovcn from the roof 
and by soin- wonderful operation of Nature, had become suddenly petrified. This 
sheet is not continuous, but strongly resembles the folds of heavy drapery, and j'ou 
may pass among the windings as through the mazes of a labyrinth, arid the light of a 
candle shines distinctly through any part of it. 

A portion of the floor of this room, is composed of a beautitul, fine yellow sand, 
wh-reas mi^t of the cave is a stift'clay, with very few indications of sand. 

Returning to the Dining Room, the next rojm, or perhaps it should be called pas- 
sage is denominated The Wii.de«nes.s, from the roughness of the path-way, and Is 
onU-'lO ft wide, but it rises to the immense height of 90 or 100 feet! As we come 
aloii" the Causewav, and look down upjn our right, we shall see our company 40 to 
5') ft" below us whih- our eves can scarcely penetrate through the darkness, to U^e 
ceiliu" above their heads. Upon the very verge of the rock upon which we are stand- 
in- are several beautiful white stalagmites, grouped togetner, among which, one 
stands preeminent. This is Bonaparte with his Body Guard, cro3.sing the A Ips The 
etlect is pcculiarlv fine, when viewed from below. . 

Proceeding only a few pncc"; from the Emperor, yon imd vnurspll upon an arcn, 



316 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— AUGUSTA. 



dlers, 2 tailors, 1 blacksmith shop, 1 
cabinet maker, 1 wheelwright, I sad- 
dle tree maker, 3 house carpenters, 1 
hatter, and 4 boot and shoe makers. 
Population about 250 persons.* 

Jenning's Gap, P. O. a gap in 
North Mountain, in the northern part 
of the county, 133 ms. from R. 162 



S. W. by W. of W. and 12 from 
Staunton. There are located here 
several houses, among which are a 
tavern and mercantile house of long 
standing. 

MiDDLEBROOK, P. V. siluatcd in 
the southern part of the county, 10 
ms. S. S. W. of Staunton, 174 S. W. 



under which your company are passing, which is very appropriately called The 
Natural Bridge. 

You are nov; upon the lowest level of the cave, and at the enirance of the farthest 
room. This is Jefferson's Hall, an extensive, but not very elevated apartment, 
quite level. Before 1 describe this room, we must diverge a little, and visit one or tAvo 
rooms, that branch oil' from the main path. Directly to your right, as you emerge 
from the Wilderness, there rises an immense mass, apparently of solid stalagmite, 36 
ft, in length, 30 ft. in breadth, and 30 ft. in height; tliis mass is beautiful beyond de- 
scription, very much resembling successive stories, and is called The Tower of Ba- 
bel ! The most splendid poition of the Tower, is on the back, but it is dilhcult of ac- 
cess, for it is necessary to climb up the surface of the rock to the height of 15 or 20 ft. 
the view however, amply repays you for the labor. 

For a few moments, you can scarcely convince yourself that an immense body of 
water is not pouring over the precipice in a foaming cataract, so white, so dazzling 
is the effulgence of the rock; and when this impression is effaced the words of the 
pious Bard rush into the mind, v/here he describes the awful effects that will Ibllow 
the consummation of all things ; 

"The Cataract, that like a Giant wroth, 
Rushed down impetuously, as seized at once 
By sudden frost, with all his hoary locks, 
Stood still!! 

One might alm.ost imagine, that Pollok had visilcd this wonder, and caught the 
idea so forcibly expressed above, from viewing this magnificent scene. 

We have already so much exceeded our intended limits, that we can only look into 
the large apartment, that occupies the space behind the Tower, which is called Sir 
Walter Scott'r Room, and then hasten back to the main path. 

Jefferson's Room, that we left some time since, is very irregular in shape, and is 235 
ft. long, following the various windings. 

What is commonly called the end of the cave, is distinguished by two singular, thin, 
lamellar rocks, 5 or (5 feet in diameter united at their bases, but spreading out so that 
the outer edges are several feet apart; this is called The Fly Trap! 

To the left of the Fly Trap, is a large recess, Avhere is a fine spring, at which the 
weary visiter is glad to slake his thirst, after the fatigues of his arduous undertaking. 

A few yards beyond the Fly Trap, there is an opening in the solid wall, at the 
height of about 12 ft. through which you are admitted by a temporary ladder. By 
hard climbing you soon penetrate to the end of the recess, where you will find the 
Source of the Nile I This is a beautiful, limped Spring covered over with a thin pel- 
licle of stalagmite, yet sufficiently strong to bear your wciglit;— in this ciufc.t theie is 
a perforation that gives you access to the water beneath. 

At all seasons, the air of the cave is damp, but the dampness of the floor depends 
much upon the seasons; if you except a moist place near the Fly Trap, there is no 
standing water throughout all the cavern, so that no difficultv on that acconnt occurs. 
The temperature remains invariably in all parts, at about 56 degrees of Farenheit, 
from which it follows, that if the cave is visited in the winter, its air feels quite 
warm; but if in .summer, a proportionable degree of cold is experienced. The spring 
and fall are the best times for visiting, for then the atmosphere without, is nearly ol' 
the same temperature with that within the cave, and it is more drv at these times. 

*The Cyclopean Tower.s.— On a fine morning in September 1634, a partv of which 
the writer was one, consisting for the most part of gentlemen who had met together in 
the town of Staunton from various sections of the Union, resolved on a visit to certain 
remarkable natural structure.s which lay in the neighborhood of the Augusta 
Springs, and about twenty miles distant from the place of their departure. 

After passing over a hilly and picturesque countrv, the road opened upon a fertile 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— AUrUJSTA. 317 



by W. of W. and 1 32 from R. Carr's 
Brook divides the town. This vil- 
lage is tljriviag and contains about 
30 dwelling- honses, some of them 



about 150 persons; of whom 1 is a 
physician. 

Moi'NT Mkkipian, p. O. 118 ms. 
from R. and 147 from W., situated in 



handsome brick buildings, 1 house ofjthe western part of the county, on the 
public worship, free for all denomina- main stage road leading from Staun- 
tions, 1 common school, 1 tavern, 3 ton, to Port Republic, 17 ms. N. E. of 



miscellaneous stores, 1 tanyard, 2 tai- 
lors, 1 cabinet maker, 1 cooper, 1 
house carpenter, 1 wheelwright, 2 
boot and shoe factories. Population 



the former, and 2^ from Weyer's 
Cave. It contains 8 dwelling houses, 
1 miscellaneous store, 1 blacksmith's 
shop, 1 tailor, 1 boot and shoe maker 



valley, which though in places narrow, was of considerable lenpfth, — and when seen 
from an elevated position, appeared like the bed of an ancient lake, or as it really is, 
the alluvial border of a flowing stream. The strata of limestone hills, followed their 
usual order of parallel lines to the great mountains of our continent, as though a 
strong current had once swept through this magnificent valley, forming in its course 
islands and promontories, which are now discoverable in numerous short hills and 
rock"}' blufl's, that are eitheir naked and barren, or covered with a growth of stately- 
trees. It was at such a projection, that we first descried the gray summits of what 
seemed a ruinous caslle, — resembling those which were raised in feudal times to 
guard the passes of the Rhine, or like such as are still seen in mouldering majesty, on 
many an Alpine rock. These summits or towers, of which there are seven, lifted 
their heads above the lofty elms, like so many antique chimnies in the midst of a 
grove; but, on approaching them nearer, our pleasure was greatly increased, to find 
them rise almost perpendicularly from the bed of a small stream, which winding 
around their base, serves as a natural moat to a building not made with mortal hands. 
The southern front of this colossal pile, presents a wall of about sixty feet elevation, 
terminating in three towers of irregular height, and perforated at its base by a cav- 
ern, — which, by an apt association, was denominated " Vulcan's Forge." The tower 
on the extreme right, was unanimously called " Cocke's Tov-rr" — in honor of one of 
our party who ascended it. On the left, are two other isolated towers, — of which the 
centre or smaller one was distinguished as the " IlymcnialAlk/r," — a name which had 
its origin partly in ajen d'esprit, and partly on account of a shady boAver in its rear, 
which seemed an appropriate shade to mantle maiden's blushes. The furthest and 
tallest, received the title of the " Tower of Babel.' This is also the most perpendicular 
of all these rocky structures; an archway passes through it, by whi -h there is an easy 
ascent to the remaining two, which stand on the acclivity of the hill, — and though of 
less altitude, are not of inferior beauty to the rest. One of them, which is of a round 
form, and flat at the top. and on that account received the appellation of the " Table 
Tioclc" — atfords from its summit a splendid view of the whole; the other, and last of 
the five, we distinguished as '• Shelloii's Rod," — from one of our party. 

These rocks in their formation resemble the palisades on the Hudson river — but are 
more regular in their strata, — which appear to have been arranged in huge masses of 
perfect workmanship — with projections like cornices of Gothic architecture, in a state 
of dilapidation. Those who are acquainted with the structure of the Cyclopean walls 
of the ancients, would be struck with the resemblance, — which suggested the name at 
the head of this article. 

We pause to inquire why these primeval fragments of the world have remained so 
long unnoticed! Why is it that men are so easily awakened to the liveliest interest 
in distant objects, and yet neglect those which are nearer and more accessible'? "A 
prophet" it hath been said on high authority, '-hath honor save in his own country," 
and to that strange propensity of the mind to contemn whatever is familiar, must be 
attributed the neglect of many of the richest treasures at our own door, which fre- 
quently impart both wealth and distinction to foreign enterprise. For many years 
these towers have been known in the surrounding country, by the homely appellation 
of " The Chimxev.s," — but no one has ever stopped to examine them, or to inquire 
how nature formed so curious a pile in such a spot. Imagination may indeed con- 
ceive that this noble structure was once the Scijlla of a narrow strait connecting the 
waters of the N. and the S. until th^ir accumulated pressure burst through the Blue 
Ridge at Harper's Ferry, and left in their subsidence these towers, as a perpetual 
memorial of their former dominion. 



318 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— AUGUSTA. 



1 manufacturing flour mill (Whit 
more's,) and 1 Methodist house of 
worship. Population 50. 

Mount Syonev, P, V. 131 ms. 
from R. and 153 S. W. by W. of W. 
situated on the main stage road lead- 
ing from Staunton to Winchester, 10 
ms. N. E. of the former. It contains 
30 dwelling houses, 3 miscellaneous 
stores, 1 handsome hotel, 1 house of 
public worship, free for all denomina- 
tions, a male and female academy, 1 
lanyard, 2 saddlers, 2 boot and shoe 
factories, 1 hatter, 1 milliner, 1 cabi- 
net and chair maker, and 1 pottery 



the first court was held in 1745, and 
this was the beginning of Staunton. 
It was not legally recognized as a 
town until 1761. 

The grant of Beverly was divided 
off into lots by the county, and soon 
became settled"; more being required, 
Beverly caused several lots to be sur- 
veyed, adjoining this grant, which 
survey bears the date of 1749, and 
shows the early increase of the place. 

Staunton originally occupied only 
the level land upon the borders of the 
creek, but it has become gradually 
extended, until it has surmounted the 



Population 190 persons; of whom 2] surrounding hills, and now rescm 



are physicians 

New Hope, P. V. 114 ms. from 
R. and 152 S. W. by W. of W. This 
little village contains several dwelling 
houses, 2 mercantile stores, 1 apothe- 
cary shop, 1 house of public worship, 
free for all denomination.s, 2 taverns, 
2 tailors and 1 house joiner. Popu- 
lation 40 persons: of whom 2 aie 
physicians 



bles an amphitheatre in form. The 
streets are quite regular, running at 
right angles, and have specific names, 
but like many other old towns, they 
are too narrow. This probably arises 
from the necessity that existed when 
they were founded, of living as com- 
pactly as possible, that the inhabitants 
might more easily repel the incursions 
of a savage enemy, who dwelt in the 



Spring Farm, P. O. 151 ms. S. W. 'surrounding forests and mountains 
by W. of W. and 122 from R. [It became a corporate borough in 

STAUNTON, P. V. and Cow/(.///i 1801, having a mayor, G aldermen 
Seat, 163 ms. S. W. of W. 121 N.land 4 common council men. 
W. by W. of R. and 40 a little N. of; At present it contains about 200 
W.from Charlottesville: situated in lat.l dwelling houses, exclusive of stores, 
38° 9' N. and in long. 2° 03' W. of! shops, offices, «&c. and its population, 
W., on one of the extreme head bran- accordinof to the census of 1830, is 



ches of the E. fork of Shenandoah 
river. It stands on the fine valley 
between the Blue Ridge and Kitta- 
linny, or between the Blue Ridge and 
North mountain chains, a little N. of 
Madison and Weyer's cave. 

With the e.vception of Winchester, 
Staunton is the oldest town W. of the 
Blue Ridge. 

Sometime previous to the laying 
off of Augusta from Orange, a grant 
of 120,000 acres of land was made to 
Wm. Beverly, Esq. comprising the 



2,000. There are 13 dry good stores, 

1 book store, 1 druggist's store, 1 
confectioner, 4 groceries, 2 carriage 
makers, 2 wagon makers, 2 saddlers, 
7 blacksmiths, 3 tanyards, 3 hatters, 

2 chair makers, 4 tinners, 1 copper 
smith, 1 gun smith, 1 threshing ma- 
chine maker, 3 cabinet makers, 2 
watch makers, 1 pottery and 5 tailor.s, 
besides the various other trades usual- 
ly followed in a place of this size. 
There is 1 printing office, from which 
issues a valuable weekly paper; and 



greater part of the present county. I which is occasionally engaged in the 
Beverly gave to the countjr when it; publication of books and pamphlets, 
was formed 2."> acres, situated upon' There are also 12 attorneys, 6 regu- 
Lewis' creek, on which to builil a (*. l;ir phvsicians, and 3 ministers of the 
FI and found a count v fosvn. Here o-ospel. The churclies at which 



WESTERN VIRCUNIA— BATTL 



819 



these luiuisters officiate belong to tlie 
Presbyterian, Episcopalian and. Me- 
thodist denominations, and are all 
handsome brick buildings. The pub- 
lic edifices are a C. H.* and jail, built 
of stone, a Chancery C. H., a county 
clerk's office, and a market house, all 
built of brick, and there are also 4 ex- 
tensive hotels. 

Much attention is paid to education 
in this place, and many young per- 
sons of both sexes, are sent here from 
all parts of the country, to attend the 
various schools. There are 2 female 
seminaries, and a male academy; all 
of which employ respectively several 
teachers, and are in a flourishing con- 
dition, besides 4 primary schools. 

The Western Lunatic Hospital is 
located in Staunton, and is a noble 
pile of buildings: it is sufficiently com- 
modious to accommodate 37 lunatics, 
but is at the present time, being en- 
larged, by the addition of two exten- 
sive wings, which, when completed, 
will accommodate 40 more. 

An act has passed the General As- 
sembly, authorising the establishment 
also, of a Deaf and Dumb Asylum as 
soon as funds can be procured for 
that purpose. 

Lewis' creek runs through the cen- 
tre of the town, and has sufficient fall 
to turn a chopping mill, a grist mill 
and a carding machine. There is 
still .sufficient unemployed water pow- 
er to drive a cotton or woollen facto- 
ry of considerable extent, and an en- 
terprising capitalist might profitably 
invest some portion of his capital in 
that business. 



County Cowts arc held on the Ath 
Monday in every month; — Quarter- 
ly in March, May, August and Oc- 
tober. 

Circuit Superior Courts of Law 
and Chancery are held on the lO/A 
of June and November, by Judge 
Thomspon. 

Steel's Tavern, P. O. 138 ms. 
from R. and 180 from W. 

Waynesboro' P. V. 109 ms. from 
R. and 150 from W., situated at the 
western foot of the Blue Ridge, on 
South river. Waynesboro' is an in- 
dustrious and wealthy little village, 
located in a beautiful and picturesque 
situation, in a fertile and well watered 
country, on the main stage road lead- 
ing from Charlottesville to Staunton, 
30 ms. N. W. of the former, and 12 
E. S. E. of the latter. The present 
town is called W^aynesboro', junior, 
(Waynesboro', senior, lying a little 
N. having fallen into ruins.) It con- 
tains 7ft dwelling houses, 5 mercan- 
tile stores, 2 houses of public worship, 
(1 Methodist and I Presbyterian,) 
I incorporated academy, 1 common 
school and public library, 1 extensive 
manufacturing flour mill and a wool 
carding machine, 1 hotel (kept in the 
best style,) 2 tanyards, 2 saddlers, 3 
tailors, 1 hatter, 1 silver smith and 
watch maker, 1 wagon maker, 1 chair 
maker, 2 cabinet makers, 3 boot and 
shoe factories, and 3 blacksmith's 
shops. Population not less than 500 
persons: of whom 4 arc regular phy- 
sicians. 



BATH. 

Bath County was created by the Legislature in 1791 from a portion of 
Augusta, Bottetourt and Greenbrier. It is bounded by Augusta on the E. 
— Rockbridge on the S. E. — Alleghany on the S. and S. W. — Greenbrier 
on the W^. — Pocahontas on the N. W., and Pendleton on the N. Its ex- 



Sincc this was written, the I'ourt has coiitiactcd for the erection of a new C II. 
which will be unquestionably the finest building of the kind in any county in tlje 



state. 



320 WESTERN VIRGINIA— BATH. 

tent, from a ridge of the North mountain on the S. E., to the main Alle- 
ghany ridge on the N. W. is 25 miles, and from Pendleton on the N. E. 
to Alleghany on the S. W. 40 miles ; and area 756 square miles. Ex- 
tending in lat. from 37° 50' to 38° 25' N. and in long. 2° 18' to 3° W. of 
W. C. 

The face of the country is very broken and in great part mountainous, 
being situated at the eastern base of the great Alleghany ridge : about 
one-eighth of it may be considered arable land, the mean elevation of which 
is 1200^feet above the ocean. It is well watered by Jackson's river, and 
its tributary, Back creek, (the latter washing the base of the Alleghany 
mountain,) and by the Cow Pasture river, and its tributary, the Bull Pas- 
ture, all of which have their sources in Pendleton county. Jackson river 
and the Cow Pasture, afterwards forming a junction in Bottctourt county, 
their united stream is styled James river. Into these streams descend from 
the mountains numerous branches and rivulets,* affording innumerable 
sites for mills and machinery. Each of those streams are separated by a 
mountain running parallel thereto, none of which are considerable or 
known by any name, beyond the limits of the county, except Jacksoii's or 
the Warm Spring mountain. They are not remarkable for their height, 
and excepting the one already mentioned do not exceed Irom 300 to 500 
feet from their base, and are by no means sterile: the soil on them being 
tolerably good, and neither too rocky or too steep for tillage ; producing 
the most valuable kinds of timber, an extraordinary variety of shrubbery 
and herbage, and abounding in limestone, iron ore, and springs of excel- 
lent water. But it is as a grazmg ground that they are chiefly valuable. 
Large herds of catlle, ranging on them in the summer months. 

The vallies between the mountains, which are from 2 to 5 miles wide, 
are very fertile, a considerable portion entirely level, and in a fine state of 
cultivation, producing abundant crops of grain and hay. The average 
produce per acre, being as follows, to wit. wheat and rye 20 to 30 bushels; 
Indian corn 25 to 40; oats 20 to 30 ; buckwheat, and barley 25; potatoes 
and turnips 100 bushels; flax, 200 lbs.; hemp 800 lbs.; and hay one to 
two tons. The meadows are particularly fine, and the kinds of grass cul- 
tivated are, timothy, clover, and blue grass, all of which flourish exceed- 
ingly. A soil so well adapted to grain and grass, naturally induced the 
proprietors to turn their attention to live stock. Accordingly, horses, 
mules, cattle, (of the finest breeds) sheep and hogs are raised, and a con- 
siderable number of them annually driven to market. Connected with the 
management of live stock, is the dairy, which is here well understood. 
Large quantities of butter are made and sent to market. Wool also is an 
article of which the quantity made is greater than the consumption, and is 
increasing. Om of the flax and wool which they grow, the inhabitants of 
this county manufacture all the clothing worn by themselves and the 



♦Among the.sc, Falling Spring Creek deserves notice. It rises in the Warm 
Spring mountains about 20 miles S. W. of the "Warm Springs, and flows into that 
valley. About three-quarters of a mile from its source, it falls over a rock 200 feet 
into the valley below. The sheet of Avater is broken in its breadth by the rock in 
two or three places, but not at all in its height. — Between the sheet and rock at the 
bottom one may Ava)k across dry. This cataract will bear no comparison with that 
of Niagara as to ti'-' -tjuantity of water composing it — the sheet being only 12 or 15 
feet wide above, and somewhat more below, but it is half as high again. The latter 
being only 1.^6 feet according the mensuration made by order of Mons. Vaudreuil, 
GovcrJior of Canada, and 130 according to a more recent account. 



WESTEllN VIRGINIA— BATH. 



321 



slaves on their farms. The soil and climate are particularly favorable to 
fruit trees, and produce, apples and peaches in great abundance; every 
farm having an orchard. Gardening is also practised to an extent equal 
to the demand for family use 

In a section of country so much diversified with mountain.s and vallics, 
abounding with mineral T3nd other springs, pure air, and a temperate cli- 
mate, heaUh and longevity may be expected. This is actually the case, 
and in this respect it is not surpassed by any part of the United States. 

In this county there are 2 attorneys, 2 physicians, 4 stores, 3 merchant- 
mills, 18 grist mills, 16 saw mills, 4 carding machines, 3 tan yards, 2 tilt- 
hammers, and 1 distillery. 

Population in 1820, 5',237— in 1830, 4,002. Bath belongs to the 17th 
judicial circuit, and 9th district. Tax paid in 1833, 8837 24 — in 1834. 
on lot.s, 86 cts. — on land, $463 69— 634 slaves, $1-58 50 — 2,1 17 horses. 
$127 02— 10 studs, S73 00—6 coaches. SI 4 00—5 carryalls, 85 00—2 
giga, $1 00 — Total, $848 07. Expended in educating poor children m 
1832, $142 53— in 1833, $203 75. 



TOWNS, VILLAGES. POST OFFICES, «kc 



Bull Pasture, P. O. 164 miles; 
from R. and 206 from W. This is 
the local name given to the higher 
part of Cow Pasture river, or the 
middle constituent of the James-. It 
rises in Pendleton and flows S. 20° 
W. to its confluence with the Cow 
Pasture in Bath. It is about 20 ms. 
in length, 10 of which distance is in 
each of the two counties. In that 
portion of the Bull Pasture valley, 
which lies in Bath, there, are located 
37 dwelling houses, 1 Presbyterian 
house of worship, 1 school, 1 mer- 
cantile store, a saddler, tailor, tilt- 
hammer, and manufacturing mill ; 
and a population of about 370 persons. 
The principal occupation of the in- 
habitants is agriculture. In this 
neighborhood there is a large spring 
of limestone water, to which no bot- 
tom has as yet been found. It rises 
between two large rocks, from under 
a bank covered with spruce pine, and 
is called the Blue Spiing. After 
running about 40 yards, it discharges 
itself into the Bull Pasture, on the 
west side, about 3 ms. Jrom its junc- 
tion with the Cow Pasture. 

On that part of the Bull Pasture, 
which lies beyond the Bath and Pen- 
dleton line, are situated 63 dwFJIing 
41 



houses, 2 houses of public worship 
( 1 Metliodist, and the other free hi 
all denominations,) 1 mercantile 
store, 1 tanyard, and various mechan- 
ics 1^8 whole population is 630 per- 
sons, oneof whom is a physicians. 

Flowing Spring, P. 6. 206 ms. 
S. W. of W. and 164 N. W. of R.. 
situated in the valley of the Cow 
Pasture, 16 ms. N. E. of the Warm 
Springs. There is no town or vil= 
lage at the place, and the spring is 
private property. This spring inter- 
raits, or ebbs and flov,-s, affording 
when the tide is up. sufficient water 
for a grist mill, and when it ebbs, 
leaves a stream large enough for the 
supply of a distillery and a tanyard. 
The water is of the purest and best 
quality, equal in temperature to ice 
water. In the dryest weather in sum- 
mer, the water flows out in a bold and 
majestic stream, that astonishes those 
who have witnessed the spring which 
is left after it falls away. When the 
flowing commences, the water comes 
[in a body as if let loose from a dam. 
Issuing from the rocks at the foot of 
a hill, it continues to run for ten or 
twelve hour" "'\a gradually declines. 
There is no regularity in the flow- 
ing ■ in the same ki?xl of weather it 



>22 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— BATH. 



will vary from two to three days, — | 
sometimes flowing every daj^ — at 
other times at intervals ot two or{ 
three days. Neither is there any 
particular period of time at v/hich 
the water rises. This irregularity 
has created the greatest difficulty in 
accounting for it. A mill, a distillery, 
and tanyard are supplied with water 
from this spring. I 

Grf.en Valley, P. O. 1-57 ras.l 
N. W. hy W. of R. and 19.9 S. W.i 
by W. of W., situated on Stewart's! 
creek, a branch of the Cow Pasture 
river, 12 ms. E. of the Warm Springs,! 
on the main post road. | 

Hot Springs, P. O. 217 ms. S.| 
W.by W. of W. and 175 N. W. byj 
W. of R. — situated between the Cow 
Pasture and the eastern branch of 
Jackson's river, at the base of a lofty 
mountain of the same name, 5 ms. S. 
S. W. of the V/arm. Springs, and 57 
S. W. by W. of Staunton, on the main 
post road leading from Richmond to 
Guyandotte on the Ohio. These 
springs are numerous, probably 
amounting to twenty, issuing from the 
hill upon which the hotel is situated, 
and all varying in their temperature, 
presenting every variety, from 51° to 
107°. As yet however there have 
been only three baths constructed. 
One called the hot bath or boiler, 
over which there has been erected a 
large and handsome building, con- 
taining fifteen rooms ; a portion of 
which together with one-half of the 
Bath, is appropriated exclusively to 
ladies, and the residue with the oth^'r 
half of the bath to gentlemen. The 
second bath is called the Spout, from 
a pipe of water of the temperature of 
106°, which falls mto the body of 
the bath, from a height of 7 or 8 feet 
from its bottom. The third is called 
the Temperate Bath. Its tempera- 
ture always corresponding with that 
of the blood of the human system ; 
over this spring is now in progress of 
erection an octagonal house, nearly 
120 feet in the clear, with convenient 



dressing rooms attached. The ac- 
commodations though considerably 
improved in the last two years, are 
still very defective. The property, 
hovi-ever has been recently purchased 
by Dr. Goode, who has commenced 
itsimprovem.ent on an extensive scale, 
and will probably in the course of 
two years have a sufficient number 
of buildings erected to accommodate 
all who are desirous of obtaining re- 
lief from the waters. These waters 
are principally celebrated for their 
efficacy in cutaneous, rheumatic, 
dj^speptic, and liver affections. They 
are however resorted to lor every 
species of disease, and perhaps there 
is none in which one or the other of 
the baths have not proved beneficial. 
There are no local improvements at 
the Hot Springs, excepting those 
mentioned. The country around to 
a considerable extent being the pro- 
perty of an individual, it has pre- 
vented the settlement of mechanics, 
merchants, or professional men. The 
proprietor, Dr Goode, is himself an 
eminent physician. 

Three miles S. W. of the Hot 
Springs, are situated what arc called 
the Healing Springs. They have 
not yet come fully into notice, but 
have of late met with considerable 
attention, and it is confidently believ- 
ed by those who are acquainted with 
the efficacy of their waters, to be the 
best in the United States. They consist 
of several small warm springs. They 
have never been analized, but have 
performed some very extraordinary 
cures where the other mineral springs 
have failed. 

ivIiLBORo' Spring, P. V. 157 m;?. 
from R. and 199 S. W. by W. of W. 
Milboro' is a small village situated 
on the free turnpike road, leading 
from Staunton, through Panther's 
-Gap, to the Warm Springs, — 6 ms. 
W. of the Gap, 13 E. of the Springs, 
22 N. W. of Lexington, and 1| from 
Cow Pasture river, which is naviga- 
ble from this point hy boats for three 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— BATH. 



months in the year. It contains 25 
buildings, several of which are of 
brick, a mercantile store, tavern, 
manufacturing- flour mill, blacksmith 
and tikhammer shop, (on an exten- 
sive scale,) 1 wagon maker, and 1 
hatter. The situation of this village 
is pleasant and eligible, — near a sul- 
phur spring, which has been famed 
for the medicinal qualities of its 
waters, and was formerly much fre- 
quented. This is a place of consi- 
derable business, being located in a 
thickly settled neighborhood, sur- 
rounded by handsome and fertile 
farms, producing all kinds of grain 
and stock. One mile from this vil- 
lage, on the right hand side of the 
turnpike leading to the Warm Springs, 
is situated the Blowing Cave. Near 
the north bank of the Cow Pasture 
river, between the cave and Milboro', 
stands a house of public worship, 
called the Wind Cave Bleeting 
Home, which is free for all deaomi- 
nations. A turnpike road is being 
made from this place to Lexington, a 
considerable portion of which is al- 
read}' in operation. 

RUCKMANVILLE, P. O. 180 mS. 

from R. and 2-22 S. W. by W. from 
W. Ruckmanville, though called a 
village, is simply a post office, estab- 
lished in 1827, and called after the 
proprietor of the place, who resides 
here and keeps a house of entertain- 
ment. It is situated 27 ms. N. of 
the Warm Springs, on the main post 
road leadino- from Franklin to Ilun- 
tersville, and 25 ms. from the mouth of 
Back creek. This creek rises in 
Pendleton county, and after running 
40 or 50 ms. along the eastern base 
of the Alleghany mountain empties 
into Jackson's river, a branch of the 
James. Its principal branches are 
the Valley branch, which intersects 
the same at Ruckmanville, and Little 
Back creek about 20 mik-s below at 
Gateswood. — The surrounding coun- 
try is mountainous. The upland is 
uneven, but thf^ soil is good profluc- 



ing in abundance, grass, corn, wheat, 
rye, oats, potatoes, buckwheat, flax, 
&.C. The timber, is, sugar maple, 
chesnut, beech, various kinds of oak, 
sycamore, locust, hickory and wal- 
nut. The neighborhood is thickly 
settled with industrious and wealthy 
farmers. 

WARM SPRINGS, P. V. and 
seat of justice. 170 ms. N. W. of R. 
and 212 S. W. of W. This village 
is situated in a narrow valley, between 
two high mountains, which run pa- 
rallel from N. E. to S. W. The 
view from manj^ points of these 
mountains is grand and picturesque 
in the extreme. The beauty and 
grandeur of the scene from the IVarrn 
Spri}ig Rock, has become very cele- 
brated ; but must be seen to be appre- 
ciated. This village contains besides 
the ordinary county buildings, about 
14 dwelling houses, 2 mercantile 
stores, 1 .saddler, 2 tailors, and 3 
blacksmiths. The ordinary popula- 
tion, consists of about 137 persons, of 
whom 1 is a physic iam. The ac- 
commodations for visiters to the wa- 
ters are also very extensive, consist- 
ing of about five and twenty cabins, 
most of which are of brick, besides 
the new Thermal Hotel, which has 
lately been erected, at great cost to 
the proprietors, and which is. a large 
brick building, about 135 feet long, 
containing a dining room for 200 
persons, a drawing room, a ball room, 
and about five and twenty comfortable 
chambers. The front is adorned by 
a large portico, the whole length of 
the house, supported by fourteen Do- 
ric columns, which aflbrds an agree- 
able shade during the heat of the day, 
and a fine promenade, as well for the 
invalid, as for the beaux and belles. 
Any one who has ever taken the 
bath here will never forget its luxu- 
ry, and to those who have not, it is 
impossible to convey a just idea of 
the delicious sensations it causes. 

It is much to be regretted, that all 
o\ir valuable mineral waters have not 



32-1 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— BATH. 



been faithfully analysed. Thousandsl 
of our citizens annually resort to the 
watering-places west of the Blue 
Ridge, for the purpose of preserving 
or repairing health. The climate in 
the autumnal months cannot be sur- 
passed for salubrity, and very many 
invalids are relieved from pain and 
sickness by the united power of air 
and water. In Europe, no one thinks 
of using waters' whose contents are 
not accurately ascertainad by men oi 
science ; but unfortunately in our 
country, copious libations are made, 
before it is known Avhether the quali- 
ty of the water is adapted to the par- 
ticular case or not. A careful analy- 
sis of the water at the Warm Springs 
has been obligingly furnished to the 
proprietors by a distinguished Pro- 
fessor of Chemistry, (Mr, Rogers, of 
William and Mary,) and the resuh is 
as follows : 

"Co7itents of the Waters of the Bath, 
at the Warm Springs, as-ascer- 
tained by Chemical Analysis : 
" The bath is an Octagon 38 ft. in 
diameter, and 16 ft, 9 in, inside — its 
area is 1 163 77 ft. 

" The ordinary depth of water be- 
ing 5 ft. the cubic capacity is 58 IS. 86 
ft. or 43533.32 gallons. " Notwith- 
standing the leakf, this quantity of 
water will flow into the Reservoir, in 
one hour. 

"' The average temper ature of the 
Bath is 98 deg. Fahrenheit. The 
Gas, which rises in the Bath, con- 
sists of Nttroge.%, with minute quan- 
ties of Sulphuretted Hydrogen and 
Carbonic Acid. 

" Besides this Gas, each gallon of 
vcater contains 4.5 cubic inches of 
Gas, consisting of 

Nitrogen - - 3.25 cub». in. 

Sulphuretted Hydrogen 0.25 do. 
Carbonic Acid - - 1.00 do, 

" The Saline contents of one gal- 
lon of the water, are as follows : 
Muriate of Lime 3.968 

Sulphate of Magnesia 9.984 

Carbonate of Lime 4.288 



Sulphate of Lime 5.466 

A trace of Soda, no doubt, in 

the state of Muriate, 

23.706" 

From this account, Avhieh may be 
implicitly relied on, it appears that 
while the Warm Springs afford the 
most luxurious bath in the world, 
they contain neutral salts and various 
gases, which act as a gentle aperient, 
diuretic and sudorific, and give tone 
and vigor to the human system. It 
is well ascertained in other countries, 
that waters of a high temperature 
tend more to strengthen the digestive 
organs than those of a low tempera- 
ture ; but it is found, by actual ex- 
periment, that the water at the Warm 
Springs retains a considerable por- 
tion of its useful qualities when bot- 
tled in the Spring, and then cooled 
by immersing the bottles in cold 
water or even ice, and this plan is 
adopted by many of those who have 
a repugnance to the use of warm 
water. 

County Courts are held on the 2i 
Monday in every month : — Quarter- 
ly in March, June, August and No- 
vember. 

Judge Taylor, holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the 25///. of April and Septem- 
ber. 

WiLLsoNviLLE, P. O. 178 ms. N. 
W. by W. of R. and 220 S. W. by 
W. of VV-^., situated in the south west- 
ern part of the county. Willsonville 
is the name of a farm at which the 
P. O. is located, and which contains 
more than 1200 acres, 400 of which 
are level and in good cultivation, pro- 
ducing well, wheat, rye, oats, corn, 
buckwheat, &c., and the dairy pro- 
duces per annum from 12 to 1500 
wt. of butter. There is also a black- 
smith's shop, grist and saw mill in 
the centre of the farm ; the latter 
moved by water of Jackson's river. 
As a farm, this will bear comparison 
with any in the Valley of Virginia. 
It is 20 ms. from the Warm Springs, 



WESTERiN VIRGINIA— BERKLEY. 325 

and 35 from Fr:uiklin, (the county j river, ;uk1 South Branch of Potomac. 
seat of Peiidlolon,) between whichi A weekly mail arrives here on every 
places the road is entirely level, and Monday. 
runs alono- tlie valiies of Jackson's 



Berkley was created in 1772, from a portion of the county of Frede- 
rick. It is bounded by Jellerson E. and S. E. — Frederick S. and S. W. — 
Morgan W. and N. W. — and by the Fotomac, separating it from Washing- 
ton county, Maryland, N. and N. E. Its mean length is 22^ miles, mean 
breadth 13: and area 308 sq. nis. It extends in lat. from 39° 14' to 39° 
45' N. and long, from 1° 14' to 2° 1 1' W. of W. C. Back and Opequhan 
creeks run through this county in nearly parallel directions, and near the 
borders of the county, in a northt^asterly direction, and give the general 
slope of the comity their own direction. The surface of this county is 
much broken, and very mountainous; the arable surface of the farms has a 
mean elevation of from 5 to to 700 feet above tide water. 

Anthracite coal has lately' been discovered in the western section of this 
county of a very superior quality, and in great abundance. The valley in 
which it is found is a continuation of the valley which produces such large 
quantities in Pens3'lvania, and the proximity of the mine to the Chesapeake 
and Ohio canals will affbrd the facilities of. a ready transportation to mar- 
ket. This discovery if it should prove as successful as there is every rea- 
son to anticipate, will convert a region heretofore barren and almost without 
a single inhabitant, into an inexhaustible source of private and public 
wealth — multiplying the inhabitants, extending the comfort of individuals 
and adding to the permanent revenue of the State. 

Population in 1810, 11,479,— in 1820, 11,211— in 1830, 10,528. This 
county belongs to the 13th judicial circuit and 7th district. Tax paid in 
1833,"$3401 46— in 1834, on lots, $238 79— land, $2194 90— 975 slaves, 
$242 75—4369 horse-s, $264 19—20 studs, $162 00—65 coaches, 
$143 65—11 carryalls, $11 60—12 gigs, $11 05. Total, $3267 48. 
Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $854 18 — in 1833, 
$570 09. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, «Scc. 

Br.Ri.TXGTON Mii.i.s, P. O. recent-'' limestone formation. The scenery 



ly located. 

Darksvii.t.e, p. V. 165 ms. froni 
R. and 86 from W., situated on Siil 



around is picturesque and agreeable. 
It contains 32 dwelling houses, 2 
mercantile stores, 1 liouse of public 



phur Spring crec]i, a branch of Ope- j worship, (Methodist,) 2 common 
quhan, 25 ms. N. W. of Harper's [schools, 1 fulling and dying estab- 
Ferry, and on the post road leading- ilishment, 1 manufacturing flour mill, 
trom Mariinsburff lo Winchester, 7.1 tavern, 1 tanyard, 1 saddler, 1 wa- 
rns, from the former and 15 from the gon maker, and 2 weavers; coopers 
latter, near a beautiful stream called i and shoemakers are the most numer- 
Middle Creek. The soil in the vi-|ous class of mechanics. A Sulphur 
cinity is very fertile and principally 'Spring- is situated about 3 rns, E. of 



3^6 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— BERKLEY. 



this place on a little creek which 
falls into the Opequan, at the distance 
of 300 yards from the spring. Here 
the scenery is delightful. The beau- 
tiful Opequan winds and meanders 
along in a manner that must interest 
the dullest fancy. There is a large 
house near this spring which was 
occupied as a boarding house some 3 
or 4 years since, when these springs 
were in vogue. These waters are 
strongly impregnated with sulphuret- 
ted hydrogen, and act as a gentle 
purgative, from which it may be in- 
ferred that they contain saline mat- 
ter. It was a place of much resort, 
but is now from the want of accom- 
modation, visited only by the passing 
traveller, or those who dwell in the 
vicinity. This is to be regretted, for 
with its scenery and the excellent 
qualities of the waters,? it could not 
fail to be a source of renovation to 
the invalid. 

Falling Waters, P. O. •J'9 ms. 
N. W. of W. and 180 from R. The 
Falling Waters are situated on the 
bank of the Potomac, about laf. 39° 
29' N. and long. 0° 44' W. of W. C, 
8 ms. from Martinsburg, and 5 S. 
W. of Williamsport, Md. at the 
isthmus formed by a circular bend in 
the river, of about 21 ms. in perime- 
ter, and only 4 across. It contains 
but 3 dwelling houses, 1 of which 
has been long occupied as a tavern, 
1 manufacturing flour mill, a mill 
for grinding lime for hydraulic ce- 
ment, a cooper's shop and post ofiice. 
Population 34, 9 of whom are slaves. 
There are in the vicinity 1 Presby 
terian and 2 Methodist houses of 
Avorship, and 1 school, in which is| 
taught all the ordinary branches of 
an English education. The mills are 
situated immediately on the banks of 
the river, and are moved by the 
stream from a large spring which 
rises about 60 rods from them, and 
which is dammed at the mill to the 
height of twenty-four feet ; forming a 
beautiful pond, which is t\w favorite 



resort of water fowl, and abounds 
with fish of a superior quality to 
those in the river. The view from 
this point of the valley of the Poto- 
mac, and the Chesapeake and Ohio 
canal, for several miles up and down 
the river, is highly picturesque. The 
soil in this neighborhood is various, 
but generally consists of a bright 
yellowish clay. It produces from 15 
to 20 bushels of wheat to the acre, 
and about the same quantity of maize, 
but the low grounds on the margin 
of the river are generally dark and 
loamy, and produce from 20 to 25 
bushels to the acre. The principal 
productions are wheat, rye, maize, 
and potatoes. The gardens produce 
in abundance all the culinary veget- 
ables adapted to the climate, and the 
lands generally nearly all of the fruit 
trees, forest trees, shrubs, &c. that 
are to be found in the same latitude. 
Iron ore is found in many places on 
the. surface of the ground, but no at- 
tempt has ever been made to discover 
a mine. Limestone and a species of 
soft slate abound. There is an ex- 
cellent never failing chalybeate spring 
at Grigg's Tavern. \'Yhe name of 
Falling Waters was given to this 
place before the mills were erected, 
from the precipitous fall of the mill 
stream over a large alluvial rock, 
which is 200 feet above the surface of 
the river. 

Gkkardstoavn, P. V. IGGms. from 
R. and 87 from W., situated in the 
southern part of the county. This 
village contains 35 dwelling houses, 
2 mercantile stores, 1 tavern, 3 houses 
of public worship, (1 Presbyterian, I 
Methodist and 1 Lutheran,) 1 com- 
mon school, 1 temperance society, 1 
bible society, 1 tract society, and 1 
well organized Sunday school, 1 tan- 
yard, 1 saddler, 2 blacksmith shops, 
2 wagon makers, 4 boot and shoe 
factories, and 3 weavers. In the 
vicinity and on mill creek, are 4 
manufacturing flour mills, 1 grist 
mill and 1 carding machine. Popu- 



WESTERN VIRGLNI A— BOTETOURT. 



327 



lation whites 150, of whom 1 is a 
physician ; colored 'SS-^total 172. 
MARTINSBURG, P. V. and 

scat of justice, 172 ms. from R. and 
71 N. W. of W. in hit. 39° 27' N. 
and long. 0° 58' W. of W. C. Mar- 
tinsburg is a flourishing and wealthy 
village. It contains besides the coun- 
ty buildings, about 300 houses, many 
of them handsome and spacious 
brick buildings. 8 miscellaneous 
stores, 4 houses of public worship, (3 
built of stone, and I of brick — tor 
Presbyterians, Eutherans, Roman 
Catholics, and Episcopalians,) a well 
built market house, 1 male and 1 fe- 
male academy, 3 common schools, 4 
well organized Sunday schools, a 
temperance, missionary, bible, and 
colonization society, an alms house, 
2 manufacturing flour mills, 1 wool- 
en manufactory, and 1 iron and brass 
foundry, with a cupola furnace, and 
water power, and 2 druggist shops. 
The mechanical pursuits are — 2 
printing offices, each issuing a week- 
ly paper, 2 lanyards, 2 saddleries, 2 



boot and shoe factories, 1 confectioner, 
4 tailors, I chair maker, 4 wagon 
makers, I plough maker, 1 hatter, 2 
cabinet makers, 2 tin and copper smiths, 
2 white smiths, and 3 blacksmiths. 
Population in 1830, 1600 persons, of 
whom 4 are resident attorn ies and 5^ 
physicians. Martinsburg is distant 
22 ms. N. of Winchester, 21 N. W. 
of Harper's Ferry, 13 S. of Wil- 
lianisport, on the Maryland side of 
the Potomcc, 10 ms. W. of Shep- 
perdstown, 25 S E. of Berkley 
Springs, 5 E. of North mountain, 
and 7 miles S. of the nearest pomt on 
the Potomac river, and Chesapeake 
and Ohio canal. 

County Courts are held on the 2d 
Monday in every mouth; — Quarter- 
ly in March, June, August and .Vo- 
veviber. 

.Judge Parker holds his Circuit 
Superior Courts of Law and Chancery 
on the 19 /A of March and \bth of 
September. 

Mill Creek, P. O. 162 ms. from 
R. and 83 from W. 



BOTETOURT. 

BoTKTorRT was created by act of Assembly in 1769, and formed out of 
a part of Augusta county. It is bounded N. by Alleghany, — N. E. by 
Rockbridge, — E. by Bedford, — S. by Franklin,— S. W. by Montgomery, — 
and W. by Giles and Monroe. Its mean length is 37 miles — breadth 28 ; 
and area 1057 sq. ms. It extends in lat. from 37° 08' to 37° 46' N. and in 
long, from 2° 28' to 3° 19' W. of W. C. This mountainous and elevated 
county slopes in tAvo directions, — the one eastward towards the general 
course of the James and Roanoke rivers, and the other northeastward to- 
wards the Great Valley, between the Blue Ridge and North mountains. 
Salem on the Roanoke, and in the southern part of the county, is 1006 feet 
above tide water, and Pattonsburg on James river, in the northeastern part 
of the county, is 806 feet. The acclivity is rapid towards the western 
border on Pott's mountain, and the mean elevation of the arable soil may 
be assumed at 1250 feet. There is a great deal of very valuable fertile 
land in this county. The great body of the county is drained by the 
James and its tributaries, but the southern angle by the Roanoke and its 
branches; both rivers are navigable from this county to tide water. 

Population in 1820, 13,590~in 1830, 16,354. This county belongs to 
the 17th judicial circuit and 9th district. Tax paid in 1833,83682 00 
—in 1834 on lots, $259 64— on land. J?2127 42—2634 slaves, ^658 50— 



328 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— BOTETOURT. 



5466 horsies, $327 96—23 studs, $245 00—36 coaches, $98 85—2 stages, 
$8 00—25 carryalls, $27 00—15 gigs, $9 GO. Total, $3760 37. Ex- 
pended in educating poor children, in 1832, $982 58— in 1833, $932 36. 

TOWNS. VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Amsterdam, P. O. 181 ms. W. of 
R. and 240 from W., situated in a 
healthy part of the county, 15 ms. { 
from Buchanan, 16 from Salem, andj 
5 from Fincastle directly on the main! 
western post road. It contains 301 
houses, 1 house of public worship, 
free for all denominations, 1 general 
store, 1 tanyard, 3 blacksmith shops, 

1 cabinet maker, 1 wagon maker, and 

2 saddlers. Population 109 persons, | 
of whom 1 is a physician. I 

Big Lick, P. O., situated in the I 
southeastern part of the count v, 53' 
ms. S. W. of Lynchburg, 173 W. of' 
R. and 250 S. W. by W. of W. . 

Botetourt Springs, P. O. 189' 
ms. W. of R. and 246 from W., situ-l 
ated on the main valley post road,! 
leading from Winchester, Va. toj 
Knoxville, Ten., about 12 ms. W. of 
Fincastle. The houses are sufficient j 
for the accommodation of about 100 
visiters, — are built of brick, and: 
handsomely arranged in the form of 
three sides of a square. The mine-| 
ral spring contains sulphur, magne- 
sia, and carbonic acid gas. There is 
on the same tract a house of public 
worship, free for all denominations. 

Buchanan, see Pattonsburg. 

Clover Dale, P. O. 186 ms. W. 
of R. and 244 from W. 

Craig's Creek, P. O. 243 ms. 
from W. and 184 from R.— 8 ms. W. 
of Fincastle. 

Dagger's Springs, situated in the 
northern part of the county, within 
two and a half miles of James river, 
16 ms. above Pattonsburg and Buch- 
anan, on the road thence to the White 
Sulphur Springs, from which they 
are distant 42 ms., from Lexington 
22, and about the same distance from 
the Natural Bridge. The water is 
similar in 'juality to that of the White 



Sulphur Springs in Greenbrier, and 
are held in the highest estimation by 
those who have used them. Accom- 
modations are provided for 70 or 80 
persons. 

FINCASTLE, P. V. and seat of 
justice, 176 ms. W. of R. and 235 S. 
W. of W. in lat. 37° 28' and long. 
2° 57' W. of W. C. A flourishing 
and wealthy village, situated on the 
right bank of Catawba creek. It 
contains besides the ordinary county 
buildings 260 dwelling houses, and 
mechanics shops, most of which are 
built with brick, a Presbyterian, Epis- 
copalian, and a Methodist house of 
worship, 1 male and 1 female acade- 
my, 1 well organized fire company, 
1 temperance society, 3 taverns, 6 
mercantile stores, 2 druggist's shops, 
1 manufacturing flour mill, to which 
is attached a Avool-carding machine, 
and an oil mill. The mechanical es- 
tablishments are, — 1 printing office, 
issuing a weekly paper, 1 confection- 
ary, 2 clock and watch maimers, 1 
gun smith, 4 blacksmiths, 4 boot and 
shoe factories, 2 tailors, 2 hatters, 2 
tanners, 5 cabinet makers and house- 
joiners, 2 wheelwrights, 1 chair ma- 
ker, 1 copper-smith and tin-plate 
worker, 4 saddlers, 4 wagon maker.-s, 
and 1 saddle-tree maker. White 
population 468 persons; of whom 9 
are attorneys, and 3 regular physi- 
cians; slaves 192, free colored 43, — 
total 703. The corporate powers arc 
vested in 7 trustees, chosen annually. 

Countu Courts are held on the 2r/ 
Mondaji ill every month; — Quarterly 
in March, June, Atigust and Novem- 
ber. 

Judge Taylor holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chan- 
cery on the \st of April and Sep- 
tember. 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— BOTETOURT. 



329 



Flukk's p. U. 163 ms. from R. 
and 241 from W. 

Henderson's, P. O. 185 ms. from 
R. and 227 S. W. of W. 

New Castle, P. V. 193 ms, from 
R. and 252 S. \V. by W. of W, situ- 
ated in the western part of the coun- 
t3^ in the fork of Craig's creek, 15 
ms. S. W. of Fincastle. It contains 
19 dwelling houses, 3 mercantile 
stores, 1 manufacturing flour mill, 1 
powder and 1 oil mill, 1 wool card- 
ing machine, 1 tavern, 1 academy 
and 1 house of public wor.ship, (Me- 
thodist,) 1 n-on foundrv, I blacksmith 



two places are at present of about an 
equal size, and contain together about 
5(J dwelling houses, 8 mercantile 
stores, 1 house of public worship, (a 
handsome brick building) free for all 
denominations, 1 common school, 2 
tobacco and 1 cordage and bagging 
factor J', 1 foundry and tilt hammer 
manufactory, 1 grist and saw mil), 
(and one other in the vicinity,) 1 to- 
bacco warehouse, at which the in- 
.spection has been revived, also an in- 
spection of flour. The mechanical 
establishments are — 1 tannerj'', 1 sad- 
dlery, 1 boot and shoe factory, 3 tai- 



shop, 2 boot and shoe factories, 1 tanjlors," 3 smith shops, 1 thrashing ma 



yard, 2 cabinet makers, 1 hatter, 1 
wagon maker, 1 saddler, I tailor, 1 
house carpenter, and 1 boat builder. 
Population 105. 

Pattonsburg and Buchanan, 
P. Villages, 181 ms. from R. and 
223 N. W. of W. These t.vo vil- 
lages were incorporated by an act of 
Assembly of 1832-3. They are sit- 
uated on James river, the first on the 
N. and the last on the S. side. The 
two are connected by a handsome, 
permanent toll-bridge across the river. 
They are 25 miles above Le.xington, 
12 below Fincastle, and 40 N. W. 
by W. of Lynchburg. The main 
western valley stage road runs thro' 
each of them, and the stage passes 
daily either up or down. The ad- 
vantages for trade possessed by the 
two places above those of any other 



hine factory, and several wheel- 
wrights, carpenters and bricklayers, 
[n addition to which several private 
re.S'idences and a considerable mer- 
cantile establishment are erecting in 
the vicinity of the western end of 
Buchanan. Population in both vil- 
lages about 356 persons ; of whom 2 
are attorneys and 2 regular physi- 
cians. 

Rebecca Furnace, P. O. 178 
m.s. from R. and 220 N. W. of W. 
This furnace and another four and a 
half miles distant from it, are the 
property of Mr D. J. Wilson; they 
are situated on Longs Entry creek, a 
branch of James river, within three 
and a half miles of the river, Avhich 
is navigable thus far for boats of from 
four to seven tons burthen. The 
post office is located 18 ms. S. W. of 



provements on Jamfs river, and the 
construction of roads opening a bet- 
ter communication with the adjacent 
counties, when completed, will great- 
ly increase the trade, and they will 
no doubt become the place of deposite 
not only for the produce of many of 
the western counties of Virginia, and 
parts of Tennessee and Kentucky, 
but also of most of the goods now 
wagoned by land from the northern 



town in Western Virginia, are suchj Fincastle, 22 N. E. of Lexington, 
as to insure their gradual if not rapid land 15 ms. from Pattonsburg and 
increase. The contemplated im- Buchanan, and derives its name 

from the furnace. At these two es- 
tablishments called the Rebecca and 
the Jane furnaces, are employed 150 
operatives, 87 of which are blacks. 
The former of these furnaces has 
been in operation 9 years, and has 
manufactured on an average from 
800 to 850 tons of pig metal per an- 
num. The latter has been in opera- 
tion only one year, and manufactured 
an equal quantity. There is a White 



and eastern town.s to the M-e.st. 



The 'Sulphur Spring adjoining the fur- 



330 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— BROOKE. 



nace property, similar in quality to the 
well known White Sulphur in Green- 
brier county, and is called by the 
name of Dagger'' s or Wilson^ s 
springs. This property has lately 
been sold to a gentleman of Rich- 
mond, who has improved it in a hand- 
some style, so as to afford first rate 
accommodations. It must become a 
place of considerable resort, as it has 
for several years past been visited by 
from 2 to 300 persons, and has given 
relief where other springs have been 
known to fail. — There is also a forge 
within 7 or 8 miles of these furnaces, 
known by the name of James river 
forge, at Avhich are employed from 60 
to 100 operatives, principally black; 
manufacturing from 2 to 300 tons of 
bar iron annually. 

Salem, P. V. 180 ms. from R. and 
256 S. W. of W., situated in the 
southern part ot the county, 60 ms 
S. W. of Lynchburg, in the Great Val- 
ley between the Blue Ridge and 
INorth mountain, at an elevation of 



1020 feet above the level of the At- 
lantic. It contains 70 houses, includ- 
ing mechanic shops, &c., 6 mercan- 
tile stores, 3 taverns, 3 houses of pub- 
lic worship, (I Methodist, 1 Presby- 
terian and 1 Baptist,) 2 female and 
1 male school, 1 manuiacturing 
flour mill, with a saw mill and wool 
carding machine adjoining, (and 
1 other in the vicinity, with a saw 
mill annexed, both running 2 pair of 
buhrs and 2 pair of country stones 
and elevators,) 1 tan yard, 1 cabinet 
maker, 2 saddlers, 5 blacksmith 
shops, 1 boot and shoe factory, 2 tai- 
lors, 1 extensive wheat fan manufac- 
tory, several carpenters, 1 house 
painter, and 1 hat manufactory. The 
Roanoke navigation from Weldon, 
N. C to this place is completed by 
canals, sluices, &c. — distance from 
Weldon to Salem 244 ms. White 
population 260 persons, of whom 2 
are attorneys, and 3 regular physi- 
cians ; colored 90 — total 350. 



BROOKE. 



Brooke was established by the Legislature in 1797, and taken from a 
portion of Ohio county. It is bounded N. by the Ohio river, which sepa- 
rates it from Columbiana co. Ohio, — W. by the same river, separating it 
from Jefferson co. of the same State, — S. by Ohio co. Va., — and E. by Bea- 
ver and Washington counties of Pennsylvania. Its mean length is 31 ms., 
mean breadth 6^ ; and its area 202 square miles. The surface of this 
county is very hilly, but the soil is very fertile. 

Bujfaloe, Cross, Hamaii's, Tomlisoii' s, and a few other creeks of small- 
er size rise in Pennsylvania and flow through Brooke into the Ohio river. 
The products of the county are grain, iron, and bituminous coal. Popula- 
tion in 1810, 5,843—1820, 6,631 — 1830, 7,041. It belongs to the 20th 
judicial circuit, and 10th district. Tax paid in 1833, $1,312 37 — in 1834. 
on lots, $207 50— land, $721 48—110 slaves, $27 50—2896 horses, 
$173 76— 18 studs, $114 00—7 coaches, $15 00—26 carryalls, $26 00 
— 5 gigs, $2 50. Total, $1,287 74. Expended in edticating poor children 
in 1832, $530 13— in 1833, $476 28. 

TOWNS. VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 

Beth.\ny, P. V. 375 ms. N. W. lit Avas founded in 1818, and is situ- 
of R. and 282 N. W. by W. of W. | ited 26 miles from the borough oC 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— BROOKE. 



33-1 



Washinfflon in Peiisylvania, on the 
l)t'autifnl stn'am of JiuHhloe creek, 7 
miles E. of the Ohio river. It is 
surrounded by romantic scenery, and 
the creek curves around it in the 
exact form of a horse shoe, making a 
rich alluvial bottom of 120 acres. 
The surrounding country is hilly, 
variegated and very fertile, well wa- 
tered, and for salubrity of air it can- 
not be surpassed in the United States. 
This village is tlie residence and the 
property oT Alczaader Cam])l)(:ll,ihe 
celebrated reforming Baptist preacher. 
It contain.s several dwelling houses, 
1 house of public worship, I mercan- 
tile store, I manufacturing flour mill, 
and saw mill, a printing office, book- 
bindery, smith shop, and various 
other mechanical establishments. 
Bethany is about 16 ms. from Wheel- 
ing, 8 from Wdlshurg, and 38 from 
Pittsburg, Pa. The products of the 
vicinity are flour, pork, beef and 
wool. The wool growing branch of 
husbandry is increasing, and the ar- 
ticle will soon l)ecome one of the 
chief staples in this part of the coun- 
try. Population 100. 

Fairview, p. O. 395 ms. from R 
and 30-2 N. W. by of W. Fairview 
or N. M'lnckcstr.r, is situated 20 ms. 
N. of Wellsburg, 2 from the Ohio 
river on the W. and 1 from the Penn- 
sylvania line on the E. Its situation 
is beautifully elevated ami healthy- 
It was laid out in 181 1 and now con- 
tains 22 dwelling houses, 2 mercan- 
tile stores, 2 houses of public Avor- 
ship, (Presbyterian,) and 1 common 
school, 2 lanyards, and 1 saddler. 
The other mechanics arc tailors, boot 
and shoe makers, carpenters, stone 
cutters, chair makers, hatters, coop- 
ers, blacksmiths, and cabinet makers. 
In the vicinity there arc 4 manuflic- 
turing flour mills. New .Manches- 
ter possesses many advantages as a 
place of business for the mechanic, 
manufacturer and merchant. Popula- 
tion 132 persons; of Avhom 3 are 
re^»'ular physicians 



IIoi.liday's Cove, P. O. 384 ms. 
from R. and 291 N. W. of W. 

Holliday's Cove is situated near the 
centre of the county. It is a small 
but beautiful valley, of a semicircu- 
lar form, both ends of which termi- 
nate on the Ohio river, being 5 ms. 
in length and one broad. It deserves 
to be classed among the natural cu- 
riosities of Virginia. It is supposed 
to have been once the channel of the 
river, or of one branch of it. Be- 
tween this and the present channel 
there is literally an island, the sum- 
mit of which is at least 400 feet above 
the level of the river, and upon 
which there are three or four tine 
plantations. It contains in all about 
1000 acres of good land. The S.W. 
extremity of the valley opens in full 
view of the town of Steubenville, 
Ohio, and the northwestern opens on 
the Ohio immediately at the S. end of 
Brown's Island. The eastern side 
is washed by Harmon's creek, af- 
fording a very considerable amount 
of water power, which at present 
serves a Avoollcn factory, 4 or 5 manu- 
facturing flour mills, and several saw 
mills. The flour manufactured at 
these mills, stands high in point of 
quality in the southern markets. The 
soil is first rate. The principal sta- 
ple is wool, of which three or four of 
the farmers have raised for some 
years about 10,000 weight. The 
manufactures are woollen cloths, casi- 
netts, &c. and flour, — the average 
shipments of which from the valley 
is annually about 10,000 barrels, the 
principal part being manufactured in 
it. There is no village or town j'et 
laid out, but rapid improvements are 
o-oing up, on the principal road which 
is the great thoroughfare from Pitts- 
burir, Pa. to Steubenville. — There 
are at present about 40 dwelling 
houses, 2 mercantile stores, and 2 
taverns. The religious denomina- 
tions arc Presbyterians and Christian 
Baptists. There are a missionary, a 
temperance, and Sunday school socie- 



332 



"WESTERN VIRGINIA— CABELL. 



ty. The mechanics are, 3 black- 
smiths, 3 house carpenters, 1 stone 
mason, 2 boot and shoe factories, and 
1 cabinet maker. This section ol 
country has been truly styled the 
yarden spot of Brooke county, and 
oeing so healthy bids fair to sustain 
a large and flourishing population, 
and perhaps no part of Virginia of- 
fers a greater opening for capitalists 
than this, especially for manufactu- 
rers. Fuel, &ic. may be had for lit- 
tle or no expense, as the surrounding 
hills abound with inexhaustible mines 
of stone coal and timber of every 
description. Population about 300. 

WELLSBURG, P. V. and seat 
of juslkc, 337 ms. from R. and 280 
N. W. by W. from W., in lat. 4F 
18' and 'long. 3° 36' W. of W. C. 
This is a healthy and wealthy vil- 
lage, beautifully situated on the left 
bank of the Ohio river, immediately 
above BufTaloe creek, 16 ms. above 
Wheeling, on a plain surrounded by 
a fertile, well improved and healthy 
country : and inexhaustible bodies of 
the best stojie coal abound on all 
sides of the place; which is furnish- 
ed at from 4 to 5 cts. per bushel, to the 
different manufactories, as fuel to the 
citizens, and for shipping to the 
southern markets. The neighbor- 
hood is rich and cheerful and rapidly 
improving; the people feeling the 
benefit of the home market. This 
flourishing village coniains, besides 
the ordinary county buildings, about 
225 dwelling houses, 2 houses of 



public worship, one Methodist, the 
other Reformed Baptist, 5 mercantile 
stores, 1 grocery and confectionary, 
and 2 shoe stores, 1 academy, in 
which are taught the Greek and La- 
tin languages; 3 female and I male 
English school, 2 white flint glass- 
works, 1 glass-cutting establishment, 
(the machinery propelled by steam 
power,) 1 large cotton factory, with a 
front of 72 feet, and 4 stories high, 
now running 1200 spindles — employ- 
ing 60 operatives, 1 steam saw mill, 
which cuts 3000 feet of plank in 12 
hours, 1 small woollen manufactory, 

1 grist mill, 1 carpet factory, a card- 
ing machine, and salt manufactory, 1 
extensive stone and red-ware pottery, 

2 tan yards, 3 saddlers, 2 printing- 
offices, each issuing a weekly paper, 
and various other mechanics, 2 ex- 
tensive porter breweries, 3 large ware- 
houses, 3 extensive manufacturing 
mills in the vicinity, one of which 
manufactured 10,000" barrels of flour 
the past year. There are between 30 
and 40,000 barrels of flour exported 
annually, from' this place in steam 
and flat boats to New Orleans. Its 
population is about 1400 persons, of 
whom 3 are resident altornej-s and 4 
regular physicians. 

County Courts arc held on the last 
Mondaj/ in every month; — Quarter- 
ly in March, May, August and No- 
vember. 

Judge Fry hold.s his (Jlrcuit 
Superior Courts of Law and Chancery 
on the -ith of May and October, 



Cabell was; created by the legislature^ in the year 1809, and formed 
from a portion of Kanawha covmty, — It is bounded N. E. by Mason, E. by 
Kanawha, S. E. by Logan, W. by Sandy river, Avhich sejiarafes it from 
Lloyd, Ijawrence and Greenwich counties, of Kentucky, and N. by Ohio 
river which separates it from Galia and Lawrence counties, of Ohio. Its 
mean length is 35 ms. ; mean breadth 29|; and area 1,033 sq, ms. It ex- 
tends in lat. from 37° 55' to 38° 40' N. and in loni^. from 4" 45', to 5° 34' 
W. of W. C. Besides the great boundary rivers of Ohio, and great Sandy, 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— CAliELL. 



333- 



Cabell is watored by Guyandotte river and Twelve Pole creek, both of 
which rise in Logan, and flow through this county, dividing it into three 
nearly equal parts; of these the former is much the largest and longest, — -it 
flows through the county in a north eastern direction, and empties into the 
Ohio, a few nas. below Barboursville. The face of the country is broken 
and mountainous, and the soil for the most part rocky and barren. Popu- 
lation in 1810,2,717 — in 1820, 4,789, — during both of these periods Cabell 
included about one-third of the present count}' of Ijogan, in 1830 when the 
county was reduced to its present limits, it contained ;3,834. Tax paid in 
1833,'ii^6Ga 14— in 1834 on lots, $33 51— on land, $315 30—313 slaves, 
$78 25—2,060 horses, $123 00—16 studs, $73 00—1 coach, $2 00—2 
stages, $4 00 — 6 carryalls, $6 00. Total, $635 66. E.xpended in edu- 
cating poor children in 1832, $280 76— in 1833, $207 25. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Browxsvillk, (see Soutli Land-1 

BARBOURSVILLE, P. V. and 

Scat of Justice, 344 ms. N. W. of R. 
and 393 S. W. by VV. of W. in lat. 38^1 
24', and long. 5° 12' W. of W. C' 
Barboursville is a handsome little vil-^ 
lage, situated on the eastern bank of 
Guyandotte river, 7| ms. from the 
mouth of Mud river. The State turn-i 
pike which leads from the eastern 

/part of the state, by the great watering! 

/ places, to the Kentucky line, passes 
through this village. A tri-weekly 
line of stages passes through the town; 
to Guyandotte, Avhere it meets a line! 
of stages from Lexington, Kentucky, 
and a line of steam-boals from Cincin-: 
nati. It contains besides the usual 
countv buildings, 25 dwelling houses.' 
3 mercantile stores, I common school, 
I extensive manufacturing flour mill,; 
1 tan yard, 1 hatter, 2 blacksmiths, 1 
tailor and various other mechanics. | 
Population 150 persons: of whom 2, 
are attorneys, and 1 a regular physi-j 
cian. I 

Count]/ Courts are held on the itk 
Monday in every month. — Q^iarler- 
1y in March, June, August and No- 
vember. I 
Judge Summer.s holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the 26/// of April, and SrjUcm- 
bcK 



Grekxbotto:\i, P. O. 359 ms. from 
R. and 376 from W. 

GuvANDOTTE, P. V. 352 ms from 
R. and 396 S. W. by W. of W., situ- 
ated immediately on the banks of the 
Ohio and Guyandotte rivers. It con- 
tains about 40 dwelling houses, 5 mer- 
cantile stores, 1 house of public Avor- 
ship, free for all denominations, 1 pri- 
mary sthool, a steam, grist and saw 
mill, and a carding machine propelled 
by the same power, 1 tanyard, 1 sad- 
dler, and 2 cabinet makers, with a 
number of other mechanics. This 
village is advantageously situated on 
a point of land formed by the conflu- 
ence of Guyandotte, with the Ohio ri- 
ver, it possesses commercial facili- 
ties of a high order, but hitherto its 
local advantages have from a want of 
foresight or enterprise in its citizens, 
not been duly appreciated. Guyan- 
dotte is the western termination of the 
daily line of stages from Washington 
City and Richmond. It is much the 
most important point of steam-boat 
embarkation, as well as debarkation 
in western Virginia, Avith the excep- 
tion of Wheeling, and there is no 
good reason aa'Ii)'' it should not spee- 
dily attain to Avhat nature designed it 
should be, a thriving and flourishing 
village. Population about 300 per- 
sons; of Avhom 1 is a regular physi- 
cian. 



334 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— FAYETTE 



South Laxdixg, or Brnu'nsviUe,^ 
P. V. 349 ms. from R. and 398 W. of 
W. South landing was incorporated 
by an act of the Virginia legislature, 
some 3 or 4 sessions since, and 2 ses- 
sions before last, its name was changed 
to that of Brownsville. It is situated 
immediately on the Ohio river, 3 ms. 
below the mouth of Guyandotte, and 
where the James river and Kanawha 
turnpike first approaches the Ohio. 
It is admirably adapted for a point of 
landing, there being a sufRoient depth 
of water at all seasons for steam, and 
other boats, to come up to the shore 
and ride in safety. It is already at- 
tracting notice in this point of view 
and a considerable portion of the pro- 
duce of the surrounding country, has 
found its way to the various markets 
on the river below, through this point : 
and it is more than probable from the 
excellenev of the landing — the beauty 



of the situation, the fact that it is here 
the great Virginia turnpike first ap- 
proaches the Ohio, and various other 
considerations, that this is the point 
where, before many years, the daily 
line of stages from Fredericksburg 
and other places will meet the steam- 
boat packets, and where the great 
western Virginia landing will event- 
ually, be permanently fixed. This 
town was laid off by the State Engi- 
giner, Mr. Crozet, three years since; 
but the proprietors of the land for va- 
rious causes, have not as yet, put the 
lots into market : there are, therefore, 
but 5 or 6 dwelling houses and 2 mer- 
cantile stores, yet established. But so 
soon as the point shall be sufficiently 
known, and the lots put into market, 
it is expected improvement will rapid- 
ly progress, and Brownsville, become 
a place of no little note in western 
Viririnia. 



FAYETTE. 

Fayette was created by act of Assembly in 1831, and formed from a 
portion of Logan, Greenbrier, Nicholas and Ivanawha counties. It is 
bounded by its parent counties, N. E., N. and N. VV. by Kanawha and Ni- 
cholas, E. by Greenbrier, S. E. by the same, S. and 8. W. by Logan, and 
W. by Logan and Kanawha. The limits of its latitude and longitude, or 
its extent in miles, we have no means of ascertaining. 

The mountains in this county are innumerable. The Gauly mountain 
has acquired the greatest notoriety on account of its having been the line 
dividino- the county of Kanawha from Greenbrier, — it is a continuation of 
the Cumberland mountain, which runs from south to north, and is cloven 
asunder by New river. Big and Little Sewel mountains, dividing Fayette 
from Greenbrier. There are many more of less note. 

New river runs through the whole county from E. to W. It is exceed- 
ingly rapid and precipitous. The junction of New river and Gauly, con- 
stitute the noble great Kanawha, 2 ms. above the falls, and 11 above the 
Kanawha county line. New river is navigable at no place between the 
eastern line of tlie county, and the place where it looses its name by ming- 
ling its water.s with those of Gauly,-— indeed there are but few places which 
admit of ferries. The stream is borne down whh so much force and 
precipitancy, as to render its crossing very hazardous, — foaming and 
pitching down a rough and rocky channel, with as much fury 
as if precipitated down a succession of precipices. The falls being so ra- 
pidly successive as to resemble artificial steps. Gauly river is the next in 
order, it is the line between the counties of Fayette and Nicholas for seve- 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— FAYETTE. 336 

ral miles: after it comes Avithin 6 miles of New river it ceases to be the 
line and bends round to the S. W. and meets that noble and capacious 
stream. It is navigable about 8 ms. above its mouth. 

The Clear Fork and March Fork of Coal, also either take their rise in 
this county, or acquire great accession as they pass through it. Their ca- 
pacity is too small to admit of being much navigated. 

There is a great diversity of .soil in this county, it being rich, midling 
and sterile, and producing corn, wheat, rye, oats and potatoes of both kinds'. 
There are no manufactories of note. The mineral resources of the county 
have not been at all developed. There are strong and innumerable indica- 
tions of iron ore, — much surface ore is found in many places, indicating 
banks of ore, and chalybeate springs are interspersed all over the county^ 

Mounds apparently of great antiquity are found in some places; from one 
of which, a human skeleton and many artificial curiosities, such as were 
common among Indians, have been taken. "The Kanawha Turnpike 
passes through this whole county from E. to W. and by travelling alon"-it 
within 8 or 10 ms. of the junction of New river and Gauly, you°come°in 
sight of the former, you stand on a high cliff' of rocks called Marshal's pil- 
lar, or the Hawk's nest, and see the river dashing and pitching Avith m'ad- 
dening fury, eight hundred or a thousand feet below you, — you approach 
the edge of the rock to look over with great caution and timidity, and few 
have been so bold and daring, as to approach the edge of the precipice so 
near as to take a perpendicular view to the bottom, — you may stand on the 
top of this clifl^ and throw a stone into the river below. By drawing a Su- 
perficial line from the top of the precipice to the bottom of the river, thence 
to the opposite clifT, and thence a horizontal line to the beginning, you 
would have a triangle, the perpendicular of which would be about 850 ft." 

The falls of Kanawha constitutes a curiosity to be specially remarked. 
The whole stream perhaps a half a mile in width, is precipitated over a 
craggy rock several perpendicular feet. The rock crosses the river 
obliquely, and when the water is low it is divided into two prongs, one of 
which washes the southern, and the other the northern shore, aflxirding the 
finest water power to propel machinery of any perhaps in Virginia; but 
when the Avater is high, the rock is covered with one unbroken sheet, and 
presents to the beholder a sight of great sublimity. 

As this county has been created since the last census, there is no means 
of ascertaining its population, Avhich Avas then included in that of its parent 
counties. It belongs to the ISth judicial circuit, and 9th district. Tax 
paid in 1833, $220 80— in 1834,— on land, $129 65—79 slaves, $19 75 
—809 horses, $18 54— 3 studs, $9 00— 8 carryalls, $8 00—1 gig, fl 00. 
Total, $215 94. No report of school commissioners lor 1832. Expend- 
ed in educating poor children in 1833, $278 70. 

Count;/ Courts are held on the 3/yZ Motiday in e\'cry month: — Quarter' 
ly ill March, June, An s^ust and November. 

Judge Duncan holds his Superior Court of Law and Chancery on 
the \st of April and Si ptember. 

Fayette being a new county, and the county toAvn not yet designated, aa'c 
therefore place the courts immediately under the head of the count}-. 



336 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— F^LOYD. 



TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, dec, 



Coal River Marshes, P. O. 227 
ms. from R. and 33G from W. 

Gauley's Bridge, P. O. 278 ms. 
N, W. of R. and 344 S. W. by W. of 
W., situated at the falls of the Great 
Kanawha river, 2 ms. below the junc- 
tion of Gauley and New river, and 
35 above Charleston. The river is 
■here 500 yds. wide and has a fall of 22 
ft. over a ledge of tocks, which ex- 
tends entirely across the stream, and 
is received into a basin below, 60 ft 
in depth. This is the last navigable 
point on the Kanawha, and presents 
one of the best sites for machinery in. 



Virginia. There are here 2 saw 
mills, 1 manufacturing flour mill, 2 
mercantile stores, and 1 hotel. A 
daily mail arrives. This is one of 
the wildest and most picturesque re- 
gions of the state. A very fine bridge 
erected at the expense of the state, at 
this spot, was consumed a few years 
since by fire, applied by an incen- 
diary. 

Mountain Cove, P. O. 273 ms. 
from R. and 315 from W. 

Sewell's, p. O. 246 ms. from R. 
and 288 from W. 



FI.OYD, 



Floyd w^as created by the Legislature in January 1831, and formed 
from a portion of Montgomery county. It is bounded N. by Montgomery, 
— E. by Franklin — S. by PtitrTck, — and W^. by Grayson. It is 35 miles in 
length from E. to W, and its mean Avidth is 15. 

Floyd is mountainous, but there is only one of the many knobs and 
spurs which cover its surface, which deserves to be noticed ; and this is but 
little less worthy of observation than the celebrated Peaks of Otter of Bed- 
ford. This is called from its resemblance to the animal, the Buffalo Knob. 
It is not itself so high as the Peaks of Otter, but ]ts base is more elevated 
than theirs, and the prospect from the top is truly sublime. On the north, 
east, and west, the beholder is amazed at the boundless succession of 
mountains rising beyond mountains, — whilst far away to the south, the 
plain seems to stretch to an interminable length. On the east the knob is 
accessible on horse-back, being two miles in height from the beginning of 
. the ascent to the highest point; on the west it breaks off precipitately, and 
presents the shape of the animal whose name it bears. 

This country is watered 'by Little river, a branch of New river. Little 
river is composed of three branches, called South, Middle, and West Forks, 
upon which are situated the most fertile and extensive meadows in the 
county. Laurel Fork, a branch of Big Reedy Island creek, waters the 
southwestern portion of the county. It washes the base of the Buffalo 
Knob. — This county lying upon the Alleghany, where it approaches the 
Blue Ridge, is not very fertile. It is mu^h better adapted to grazing, than 
to grain. Indian corn does not thrive well, but wheat, rye, oats, and buck- 
wheat, are raised in the greatest abundance. Horses, oxen, hogs and sheep 
are raised for market in great quantities, and are the only staples. Popu- 
lation between 7 and 8000, and rapidly increasing. It belongs to the 16th 
judicial circuit and 8th district. Taxes paid in 1833, $294 46— in 1834, 
on lots, $11 54— on land, $171 56—151 slaves, $37 75—1191 horses, 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— FREDERICK. 337 

$71 46—6 studs, 627 00—1 coach, 82 00—5 carryalls, 85 00. Total, 
$316 31. Expended in educating poor children in 1332, 8105 52 — in 
1333, 8544 50. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &,c. 

JACKSONVILLE, P. V. andison C. H., and 35 N. of Patrick C. 
seat of justice, 227 ms. from R. and H. Such is the healthiness, that there 
305 from W. This village is located is only 1 physician in the county. 
in the most fertile and healthy part of County Courts are held on th« Zd 
thecounty. The lots were laid off some Mo7iiay in every month; — Quarter- 
ly months since, and a considerable L'?/ iu March, June, August and No- 
number of them sold. It of course | re wiier. 

does not contain many improvements Judge Saundeks holds his Circuit 
as yet. There is however a hand- Superior Court of Law and Chance- 



some court house erected, 5 dwelling 
houses, and a number of others are 
now building, 2 mercantile stores, 1 
house of public entertainment, 1 tan 
yard, 1 saddler, 1 blacksmith shop, 
and post office. Jacksonville is situ- 
ated 100 ms, W. of Lynrhburg, its 
chief market or place of trade, 35 
W. of Franklin C. H., 20 S. of 



ry on the 17 th of Afrii and Septem- 
ber. 

Simpson's P. O. situated 21 ms. N. 
E. of the C. H. 21 1 ms. from R. and 
289 from W. 

Stoxey Fork, P, O. 229 ms. from 
R and 307 from Vv^., situated 2 ms, 
W. of the C. H. It contains a mer- 
cantile store, tavern, and blacksmith 



Montgomery C. H., 55 E. of Gray- 'shop 



FRE]DERICK. 

Frederick was created by act of Assembly in 173S, and formed from a 
portion of Orange. It is bounded N. by Morgan, Berkeley, and 
Jefferson, — E. by Loudoun and Fauquier, — S. by Shenandoah, — and W. 
by Hardy and 'Hampshire. Its me'an length is 29 miles, m.ean breadth 
25f ; and its area 745 square miles. It lies between lat. 38° 50' and 39° 
25' N. and long. 0^ 48' and 1° 28' W. of W. C. The surface of this 
county is very much diversified by hill and mountain scenery, and by di- 
versity of soil. It occupies S. from the Potomac part of the continuation 
of the great valley, in which are situated Lebanon, the lower part of Dau- 
phin, the greatest part of Cumberland and Franklin counties, Pennsyl- 
vania, and Jefferson and Berkley counties, Virginia. The Shenandoah 
river traverses the southeastern border meandering along the northwestern 
base of the Blue Ridge. Opequan, Back and Sleepy creeks, flowing N. 
N. E. into the Potomac, also rise in Frederick. The slope of the county 
is of course northeastward, in a similar direction with the streams. The 
ground near Harpers Ferry and along the Potomac is about 200 feet 
above tide water, and allowing a similar rise from the Potomac, the mean 
height of Frederick would be about 400 feet. The soil of this county is 
highly productive, though the face of the county is considerably broken by 
mountain ridges. It is one of the wealthiest, most hospitable, and most in- 
telligent counties in the State. Population in 1810, 22.574 — 1820, 24,706 
— 1830, 26,046. It belongs to the thirteenth judicial circuit, and seventh 
13 



338 WESTERN VIRGINIA— FREDERICK. 

district. Tax paid in 1833, $8,987 19— in 1834 on lots, $1,113 71 — 
land, $5,514 65—3,842 slaves, $960 50—8,506 horses, $510 36—38 
studs, $453 00— 158 coaches, 8427 80—2 stages, $4 00—47 carryalls, 
$o3 90—31 gigs, $71 75. Total, $9,119 67. Expended in educating 
poor children in 1832, $1186 85— in 1833, $1988 47. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 

^ACK Creek Valley, P. O. 164 jbanks, in a valley between the river 
ms. from R. and 85 W. of W. jand Blue Ridge, near the junction of 

BaTtletown, or Berryville, jthe counties of Culpeper, Fauquier, 
P.O. 160 ms. from R. and 59 N.W. jand Shenandoah. The situation of 
of W. This is a healthy and flour- this village is eligible and pleasant, 
ishing little village, situated on Ope- lit contains 37 dwelling houses, 2 
quan creek, on the direct post roadjhouses of public worship, (1 Metho- 
from Winchester to Washington dist, a neat brick building, and 1 free 
City, 12 miles from the former. Itifor all denomination,) 2 academies, 
contains about 30 dwelling houses, 1 jin one of which is taught the Lan- 
handsome Episcopal house of public [guages, 2 houses of public entertain- 
worship, lately erected, 1 academy, iment, 4 mercantile stores, and 1 
and 3 female schools, 2 mercantile apothecary shop. There is one ex- 
stores, several mechanic shops, &c. 'tensive manufacturing flour milk 3 
But the business principally transact- kvagon makers, Avhich have acquired 
ed in this place is of a commercial jsome celebrity, 3 tan yards, 2 sad- 
nature. General Morgan of Re- jdlers, 3 boot and shoe factories, 3 
volutionary memory, resided foi* a [smith shops, 2 tailors, 1 chair maker, 
considerable part of his life in the j I cabinet maker, 2 house joiners, 1 
immediate vicinity of this village, jbrick maker, and i wheat Ian manu- 
It was the scene of many of those 'factory. Population 350 persons, of 
personal and party combats for which \vhom 1 is an attorney, and 3 are 
he was so remarkable. This cir-^ regular physicians. Thcreis a small 
cumstance is said to have given rise land beautiful stream passing through 
to the name of Battietown — by which the E. end of this village, on the 
it is now generally known. Its pro-|main street, called Happy creek, 
per name is Berryville. Population [which is visited by fish when the 
about 300 persons; of whom 2 are 



attorneys, and 5 regular physicians, 

Brucetown, P. O. 157 nis. from 
R. and 79 from W., situated 7 ms. 
W. of Winchester. It contains about 
25 houses, 1 Methodist house of pub- 
lic, 2 mercantile stores, 1 tavern, 2 
manufacturing flour mills, 1 tailor, 1 
wagon maker, 1 smith shop, and 1 
boot and shoe factory. Population 
75. 

Front Royal, P. V. 139 ms. 
from R. and 75 W. of W. It is sit- 
uated in the extreme southeastern 

angle of the county, 20 ms. S. E. of|country, viewing it from this village, 
Winchester, on the S. side of the lis grand and picturesque. There are 
Sftenandoah river, a mile from its {many handsome residences and de- 



Shenandoah is high: and a beauti- 
ful range of mountain scenery pre- 
sents itself in view of tlie town. In 
the vicinity^ are three manufacturing 
flour mills, turned by the noble She- 
nandoah river. About 3^ of a mile 
from the W. end of this place, but in 
Shenandoah county, is situated Al- 
lev! s Cave, said by some to surpass 
Weyer's cave for the extent and su- 
blimity of its caverns. (See Allen's 
cave, Shenandoah Co.) This cave is 
much frequented by parlies in the 
summer season. The surrounding 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— FREDERICK, 



m 



lightful seats situated on eminences 
in the neighborliood. Among them 
is the agreeable mansion of the hos- 
pitable and venerable James Mar- 
shall, (a brother of the Chief Jus- 
tice,) whose residence is situated on 
Happy creek, after which it is very 
properly named, as those who have 
been its guests will be willing to tes- 
lify. 

Gaixsboro', p. O. 159 ms. from 
R. and 80 W. of W., situated on the 
road leading to Cumberland, 9 ms. 
N. W. of Winchester, 1 mile W. of 
Hog creek, and \ E. of Back creek. 
It contains 30 dwelling houses, 2 
houses of public worship, ( 1 Metho- 
dist and 1 Quaker,) 1 common school, 
and 1 house of public entertainment. 
There arc 2 tan j'ards, 2 saddlers, 1 
boot and shoe maker, 3 smith shops, 
1 cabinet maker, I house carpenter, 
1 tailor, and 1 cooper. Population 
100 persons, of whom 1 is a physi- 
cian. In the vicinity is located a 
woollen manufactory, and 2 manu- 
facturing flour mills. 

HowELLsviLLE, P. V. 147 ms 



Manassas' Gap, P. 0. 134 ms. 
W. of W.C. 

MiDDLETowN, P. V. 158 ms. from 
R. and 84 N. W. of W., situated on 
Cedar creek, near the southwestern 
border of the county, 13 ms. S. W. of 
Winchester. It is a thriving and 
healthy village, containing about 55 
dwelling houses, 1 Methodist and 1 
Episcopalian house of worship, 4 
mercantile stores, 2 common schools, 
I hotels, I tanyard, 1 saddler, 1 ex- 
tensive wheat machine manufactory, 
which sells annually 10 or 12 ma- 
chines at $400 each. The other 
mechanics are wagon makers, black- 
smiths, boot and shoe makers, 2 sil- 
versmiths and watch makers, 3 tai- 
lors, 1 cabinet maker, and 1 chair 
and bedstead maker. There is a 
flourishing academy situated two and 
a half miles distant from this village, 
which is under the superintendence 
of the*Jf?^'r. John Lodor. 7'here are 
two nianufacturing flour mills in the 
vicinity. Population about 300 per«r 
sons, 1 of whom is a physician. 

Millwood, P. V. 139 ms. from 



from R. and 94 N. W. by W. of R. and 66 N. W. by W^ of W., situ- 
W., situated immediately on the ated 1 1 ms. S. E. by E. of Winches 



banks of the Shenandoah, where 
Howells' run empties into that river, 
about 7 ms. distant both from Front 
Royall and Berry's Ferry. This 



ter. It contains 21 dwelling houses, 
3 mercantile stores, 1 Episcopalian 
house of public worship, a neat build- 
ing lately erected, 1 extensive tan- 



little village is rapidly improving. Itjnery, 1 boot and shoe factory, 2 tai- 
contains 6 or 8 dwelling houses, 1 ilors, 1 wagon maker, 1 blacksmith 
h3usc of public worship, free for alljshop and 2 manufacturing flour mills, 
denominations, 1 miscellaneous store, jeach grinding from 15 to 20,000 
2 manufacturing flour mills, 1 wagon j bushels of wheat annually. The 
maker, 1 boot and shoe factory, 1 i country around is rich and thickly 
smith shop, 1 fancy weaver, I house j settled, — the land of superior quality, 
carpenter, &c. The bottom lands in {producing well all the ordinary sta- 
this neighborhood are exceedingly ] pies. Population 112 persons; of 
rich, and produce in abundance In- whom 1 is a physician. 
dian corn, wheat, rye, oats, &c . The | Newtown or Stephensburo, P, 
mountain lands are productive and;V. 158 ms. from R. and 79 N. W. 
well timbered. The Shenandoah islby W. of W. This village is situa- 
navigable 150 ms. above this place, ited 8 ms. S. of Winchester. It con- 
and boats descend the river from thisitains 88 dwelling houses, an excellent 
point at all seasons with 50 barrels of j market house, and 2 houses of pub- 
flour, and when the waters are highjlic worship, 1 belonging the Met^ip- 
with 150. Population 30. idist denomination, and the other 1^14 



!40 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— FREDERICK. 



jointly by the Lutherans and German i 
Reformed churches, 3 schools, 1 well] 
organized sunday school, 2 mercan-; 
tile stores, 3 tan yards, and 3 saddlers. 
The principal occupations of the vil- 
lage are wagon and wheat machine 
making. — Great numbers of wagons 
are made, — no less than 9 different 
establishments being engaged in this 
business, which make and send wa- 
gons to almost every part of the 
State, which for neatness, strength, 
and durability, are said not to be sur- 
passed in the United States. Popu- 
lation 700 persons; of whom_ 4 are 
regular physicians. 

NiNEVAH, P. O. 14,5 ms. from R. 
and 81 N. W. by W. of W. This 
place is situated in the northern part 
of the county, and conteins 5 dwel- 
ling houses, 1 wagon maker, 1 boot 
and shoe maker, 1 blacksmith shop, 
and 1 wheat machine manufactory. 
Population 30. This post office has 
recently been transferred to a country 
store, 2 miles distant, at which is lo- 
cated a tailor, boot and shoe maker, 
and a blacksmith shop. The country 
around is of limestone formation, and 
is very fertile and thickly settled with 
industrious and wealthy farmers. 

Pembroke Springs, P. O. 168 
ms. from R. and 89 W. of W., situa- 
ted 18 ms. W. of Winchester. 

Snicker's Ferry, P. O. 156 ms. 
from R. and 55 from W. 

White Post, P. O. 144 ms. from 
R. and 71 N. W. of W. This is a 
flourishing little village, situated 12 
ms. S. E. of Winchester, in a beau- 
tiful and highly picturesque country, 
remarkable for the fertility of its soil 
and neatness of agriculture. It con- 
tains 30 dwelling houses, 1 house of 
public worship, free for all denomi- 
nations, and which is occupied also 
as an academy, 2 mercantile stores, 1 
tavern, 1 saddler, 2 tailors, a smith, 
and various other mechanics. A 
temperance society was organized 
here, about 2 years since, called the 
White Post, and is now in a pros-. 



perous condition, having about 100 
members. Population 150 persons; 
of whom 3 are regular physicians. 

White Hall. P. V. 158 ms. from 
R. and 79 N. W. of W. This vil- 
lage is situated near the northern line 
of the county, on Apple Pie Ridge. 
This ridge is an elevated and exten- 
sive ridge of fertile land, which pass- 
es under different names, through 
the counties of Berkeley and Frede- 
rick, in a direction nearly north and 
south. It contains 15 dwelling 
houses, 1 Methodist house of wor- 
ship, 1 school house, 1 Sunday school 
and tract society, 2 miscellaneous 
Stores, 2 wagon makers, 1 saddler, 1 
tailor, 1 blacksmith, 1 cooper, and 1 
boot and shoe factory. In the vici- 
nity, on Green Spring Run, a num- 
ber of excellent and extensive flour- 
manufacturing, grist and saw mills 
are located. The Run is a beautiful 
and never failing stream, which takes 
its rise wiihin 1 mile of the village, 
isSiiing out of the western side of 
Apple Pie Ridge, it runs in a north- 
western direction, and falls into Bath 
creek. The situation of this place 
is plecisant and healthy. The sur- 
rounding country is limestone land of 
good quality, and in a high state of 
cultivation. The roads Irom Win- 
chester to Gerardstown pass through 
this village, distant 8 miles S. of the 
former, and 6 N. of the latter. ^ The 
_oad from Charlestown, Jefferson, 
also passes through to the Bloomery 
gap, or Sherrard's Store, distant 15 
ms. from the former. Population 
70. No physician or attorney reside 
in this place. 

WI NCHESTER, P. T. and Coun- 
ty Seat.— 0( the large and wealthy 
county of Frederick, and one of the 
most considerable towns in Avestern 
Virginia, is situated in N. lat. 39° 1 1', 
W. long. 77° 28';* distance from 



* Agreeable to late observations of Capt. 
Grsham, U. S. Topographical Engineer, 
and Mr. Bruce, principal of the Winches- 
ter Acadcsay. 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— FREDERICK. 



341 



Washington, 71 ms. ; Richmond, 150 : 
Harpor's Ferry, 30. This place is 
situated in the fertile valley of Vir- 
ginia, in the midst of a rich and abun- 
dant country, and a thriving and in- 
dustrious people. It is one of the 
oldest towns in western Virginia. 
Being somewhat celebrated in the his- 
tory of our Indian warfare and revo- 
lutionary struggle, a brief review of 
its early history will, it is believed, 
be interesting, as it is closely connect- 
ed with the early actions of that emi- 
nent individual, who afterwards be- 
came endeared to his countrymen by 
the glorious deeds which gained him 
the noble title of Father of his coun- 
try. Tradition informs us that the 
ground on the edge of the present site 
of Winchester was occupied by a large 
and powerful tribe of Indians, called 
the Shawnees or Shawanees, and 
some springs at thai point, are called 
the Shawnee Springs at this day. The 
earliest accounts of the settlement of 
W^inchester, state that there were 2 
houses on its present location as earl)' 
as 1738, situated near the town run; 
but its establishment as a town com- 
menced in Feb. 1752, in the 25th 
year of the reign of George the II. 
when the General Axscinhh/ passed an 
"act for theeslablisihment of the town 
of Winchester."* In 1758 it was en- 
larged in consideration of an addition- 
al quantity of land being laid off in 
lots by Col. James Wood, now called 



♦When the town of Winchester -w-as fir.'^t 
laid ofT by Lord Fairfax, he made the town 
lots of half an acre each, and by hi.s con- 
veyances annexed an out-lot of five acres 
adjoining the town, to each town or in.-lul; 
and by the condition of each grant, made 
the in'and the out-lots inseparable, ii being 
the design of this benevolent proprietor, 
that each house holder in town, owner of a 
lot, should always have appurtenant a con- 
venient parcel of land for small cultivation 
or pasturage. 

The intent of these grants has been, how- 
ever, long since evaded, by conveying one 
lot in fee, and the other by lease for 1000 
years, renewable forever at a nominal 
rent. 



in (he plot of the towti, Wood's addi- 
tion. Trustees were then appointed 
consisting of Lord Fairfax, Col. Mar- 
tin and others : Vide Henning's Sta- 
tutes at Large: vol. 7. p. 135. Addi- 
tions to the town, were also made by 
Lord Fairfax. t Col. Wood is there- 
fore entitled to the honor of being the 
founder. Winchester is mentioned by 
General Washington, as being one of 
the points in his route, in his celebrat- 
ed mission, by order of Governor 
Dinwiddie, to the French authorities 
on the Ohio. He came from Alex- 
andria to Winchester Avhere he pro- 
cured baggage horses, &;c. This wa.s 
in November 1753.| 

In the French and Indian warfare 
that succeeded, Washington fixed his 
head quarters at Winchester, which 
was then a frontier stttlement. The 
North mountain a few miles west of 
Winchester being the boundary. — 
From the fear occasioned by the at- 
tacks of the French and Indians, this 
place was almost the only settlement 
west of the Blue Ridge, which range 
of mountains, was as late as 1756, the 
north western frontier. At that pe- 
riod public stores to a large amount 
were deposited at Winchester, for the 
frontier settlement. After the distin- 
guished action at CIreat INleadows, Ju- 
1)^ 4, 1754, W^ashington returned with 
his regiment to Winchester to recruit, 
soon after which, he was joined by 
a {e\x companies from Maryland and 
North Carolina, after which rein- 
forcement they were ordered by the 
Liuetenant Governor, to march imme- 
diately over the Alleghany, to drive 
the French from Fort du Gluesne, or 
build one in its vicinity. After the 



t Lord Fairfax was the proprietor of the 
Northern Neck of Virginia, he lived and 
died at Greenway Court, about 12 ms.from 
Winchester, and was buried at the old 
Episcopal church of that place: (See ex- 
tent of his domain tinder Culpeper. 

t See his Journal of the expedition, very 
properly preserved in Marshall's life of 
Washington — new edition : vol 1 p 4Cl. 



342 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— FREDERICK. 



disastrous defeat of Braddoclc, Wash- 
ington with the remains of the brave 
Virginia troops retreated to Winches- 
ter. Upon the invasion of the fron- 
tiers by the French and Indians, 
Washington then on his way to Wil- 
liamsburg, the Seat of Government, 
was overtaken by an express, below 
Fredericksburg, with the intelligence 
that the Frencli and Indians had bro- 
ken in upon the frontier settlements, 
and were murdering and capturing 
women and children, burning houses, 
destroying crops, &c. and that the 
troops, stationed among tiiem were 
insufficient for their protection. He 
immediately hastened back to Win- 
chester, where the utmost confusion 
and alarm prevailed. His attempts to 
raise the militia were unsuccessful. 
He sent urgent orders to the country 
Lievxtenants, east of the Blue Ridge, 
to hasten their militia to Winchester; 
but before these orders could be exe- 
cuted, the enemy which had done so 
much injury and caused so much 
alarm, had re-crossed the Alleghany 
mountain. Col. Washington after re- 
peated ineffectual efforts to arouse the 
government to act on the offensive, and 
adopt a more efficient system of war- 
fare, by sending a force sufficient to 
destroy Fort du Q,uesne, at length 
prevailed, and Gen. Forbes was or- 
dered to undertake the campaign for 
its reduction. On the 24 ih of May, 
1758, orders were issued to Wash- 
ington's regiment to rendezvous at 
Winchester, and be in readiness to 
march in 15 days. June 24, the Vir- 
ginia troops in pursuance to the or- 
ders they had received, moved in de- 
tachments from Winchester to Fort 
Cumberland, where they assembled 
early in July. Upon the reduction of 
Fort du Qucsne, (when its name was 
changed to Pitt, in honor of the then 
British Minister,) Col. Washiiigton 
after furnishing 200 men from his 
regiment to garrison the Fort, march- 
ed the rest back to Winche.ster, whence 



take his seat in the house of Dele- 
gates, of which he had been elected a 
member by the County of Frederick, 
while at Fort Cumberland. During 
these contests a Fort was built at Win- 
chester, the remains of which are still 
visible at the north end of the princi- 
ple street. In Henning's Statutes, 
vol 7. page 33, we find the 16th 
clause of a law passed March, 1756, 
which refers to this Fort, and the ap- 
propriation for its erection in these 
words, " and whereas it is now judged 
necessary, that a Fort should be im- 
mediately erected in the town of Win- 
chester, county of Frederick, for the 
protection of the adjacent inhabitants 
against the barbarities daily commit- 
ted by the French and their Indian 
allies: be it therefore enacted that the 
Governor or Commander-in-chief of 
the colony for the time being, is here- 
by empowered and desired to order a 
Fort to be built with all possible de- 
spatch, in the aforesaid town of Win- 
chester; and that his honor give such 
orders and instructions for the imme- 
diate effecting, and garrisoning the 
same as he shall think necessary for 
the purpose aforesaid." The act al- 
so appropriates the sura of £1000 for 
carrying the above- provision into ef- 
fect.' This Fort was called Fort 
Loudoun, in honor of the British 
General, Lord Loudoun, who had 
been apjjointed to the command of the 
British troops in America. It is stat- 
ed in the History of the Valley upon 
authority, entitled to the highest re- 
spect, the gentleman furnishing the 
information referred to, having been 
informed by Washington's officers, 
that Washington marked out the site 
of this Fort and superintended its 
erection, that he bought a lot in Win- 
chester, had a blacksmith shop erected 
on it, and brought from Mount Ver- 
non his own blacksmith to make the 
necessary iron work for the Fort. 
The very spot is pointed out, where 
Washin":ton's own residence was situ- 



hc .soon proceeded to Williamsburg lo iriled. It is slated that his chamber 



WESTERN VlRCaNlA— FUEDEIilCK. 



343 



was above the gateway of the Fort in 
a situation commanding a view of the 
principal street of the town. This 
Fort covered an area of half an acre, 
and there is still much of its enbank-l 
ments and mounds remaining. There j 
is also a well, from which water now} 
rises to the surface, sunk through the| 
solid rock 103 ft. The labor of| 
throwing up this Fort, and sinking] 
this well, was said to have been per- 
formed by AVashington's regiment. 
The Fort contained a strong Garri- 
son ; and it is stated by one of the old- 
est inhabitants of Winchester, to have 
mounted si.x. 18 pounders, six 1 2 pound- 
ers, six G pounders, 4 swivels and 2 
howittzers, and to this day grape shot 
and cannon balls are found there. 
These cannons were removed from 
Winchester, early in the war of the 
revolution. This Fort was said to 
have been once reconnoitered by a 
French officer, but never was attacked 
by the enemy. Winchester was used 
for its security as a depot for Hessian 
and British prisoners, taken during 
the revolution. The number increas- 
ed so much, that barracks were erect- 
ed 4 ms. N. of the town, for their ac- 
commodation: at one time in the year 
1781, the number of prisoners was 
1600. 

Having given this sketch of the 
early history of Winchester, which in 
a work like this is justiliable, as it is 
interesting to all Virginians, and all 
other citizens of the United States, to 
recall the associations and localities of 
those "times that tried men's souls," 
and more especially of this place from 
its intimate connection v>lth the first j 
actions and trials ot the Father of our 
country; we will now proceed to] 
give some account of the statistics of| 
Winchester. 

The principal part of the town, isj 
built on low ground, from which the' 
streets ascend. It is very compactly 
built, and the streets are laid out reg- 
ularly, crossing each other at right 
angles. The principal street is Avell 



paved, and the sidewalks in all the 
streets are more or less improved. 
The houses are generally built of 
brick or stone. The number of 
houses is about 500, and the supposed 
population near 4000. The census 
of 1830, made the population 3620 of 
the following description of persons: 
Free white males, - - - 1429 

Do. females - - 1275 

Slave males, - - - - - 290 
Slave females, - - . - 365 
Free colored males, - - - 100 

Do. females, - - 161 

Total, - - - 3620 

The active population of Winches- 
ter, may be arrayed under the 3 gen- 
eraljjdivisions of professional, mercan- 
tile and mechanical classes-; — 

1st. Professional. — There are 6 
clergymen, 1 Methodist Episcopal. 1 
Presbyterian, 1 Episcopalian, 2 Evan- 
gelical Lutheran, 1 Methodist Protes- 
tant. The legal profession is quite 
numerous, and the Winchester Bar 
has always held one of the highest 
stations in Virginia. It has given a 
presiding Judge to the Supreme Court 
of Appeals: and several Judges to the 
bench of the General Court. There 
has been, a flourishing Law School 
which only ceased with the elevation 
of the LecturertotheCourtof Appeals. 
The present number of resident law- 
yers of the Winchester Bar is 22: be- 
sides these, a number of lawyers at- 
tend the terms of the courts in Win- 
chester. 

Physicians. — The number of the 
medical profession is 7. The pro- 
mising Medical School established 
here some years since by the Medical 
Society of the Valley, has been discon- 
tinued, — two of its professors have 
been called to distinguished stations 
in other institutions, — one professor 
of Theory and Practice of Medicine, 
jin Transylvania University, Ken- 
[tucky, and the other, to the Chair of 
Medicine in the University of Va. 
; The mercantile class of the coni^ 



dU 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— FREDERICK, 



miinity m Winchester, consists for the 
most part of business men, who are 
careful and prudent in all their deal- 
in s^s. Many of them have in conse- 
quence become wealthy. There are 
41 stores in Winchester of the follow- 
ing description : — 32 dry goods and 
grocery stores, 1 apothecary and 
drusrsfist, 1 "auction and commission 
store, 3 iron stores, 2 stove and cast- 
ing manufactories, -I confectionary 
and fruit store, 1 book and stationary, 
and 1 lottery office. 

The mechanics are as follows, to 
wit:— 2 brewers, 4 bakers, 1 book- 
binder, 12 victuallers, 1 brass founder, 
13 carpenters, 3 chair makers, 1 clock 
and mathematical instrument maker, 3 
extensiv^e coach manufactories, giving 
employmentto a great number ofhands, 
1 gunsmith, 4 house painters and gla- 
ziers, 6 masons and bricklayers, 1 or- 
namental painter, 1 pottery, 1 rope 
and reed maker, 9 boot and shoe fac- 
tories, 5 silver smiths, watch repairers 
and jewellers, 4 tanners and curriers, 
3 barbers, 1 buhr stone maker, 17 
blacksmiths, 4 brickmakers, 2 carpet 
weavers, 4 cabinet makers, 2 copper 
smiths, 2 coopers, 2 confectionaries, 1 
dyer, 2 hatters, 2 lock and w^hite 
smith's, 8 milliners, 6 plasterers, 2 
ploughmakers, 5 saddle and harness 
makers, 2 skindressers and glovers, 1 
silver plater, I saddle tree maker, 3 
tobacconists, 2 turners, 1 tallow chan- 
dler, 5 tinplate workers, 9 tailors, (4 
merchant tailors,) 1 upholsterer, 10 
waggon makers, 3 weavers, 1 wheel- 
wright. This list embraces 46 difier- 
ent trades, and upwards of 170 master 
workmen. It is presumed that there 
are several hundred journejmien and 
apprentices employed by these per- 
sons. There are 6 merchant mills in 
the immediate vicinity of Winchester, 
1 cabinet ware factory, part of the ma- 
chinery turned by water, 1 carpet fac- 
tory which makes carpeting of a su- 
perior quality, much admired for the 
beauty of its texture, and the brillian- 
cy and permanency of its colors. 



There is 1 cotton factory, but at pre- 
sent its operations are suspended. The 
abundant water power and its admi- 
rable location, justifies the prediction 
that Winchester will one day become 
a great manufacturing town. There 
is 1 academy for youth founded by an 
act of the Legislature, as far back as 
1788, now 46 years since. It has 
been in operation the greater part of 
that period, and has had as many as 
80 pupils in one year. It is estimat- 
ed, that at least 1 000 young men from 
different and distant parts of the state, 
have been educated in part or entirely 
at this institution. This academy has 
maintained, perhaps as high a repu- 
tation as any other similar institution 
in the state. There are, besides the 
academy, an institute for young la- 
dies, and 1 1 other schools. There 
are few places in the state, which pre- 
sent greater inducements to parents, 
desiring to have their children well 
educated than Winchester. It is re- 
markable for its health, the purity of 
the water; and what is more impor- 
tant for the correct, moral and reli- 
gious tone of feeling, which prevails 
among most of its inhabitants. It is 
also a remarkable fact which should 
be stated, that although there is no 
night watch, a robbery is almost un- 
known, and a general state of good or- 
der prevails. The public buildings 
are a C. H., clerk's office, jail, mar- 
ket house and Common Council Hall, 
Masonic Hall, and Library and Ly- 
ceum building. There are several 
excellent hotels ; one of which, lately- 
erected, is surpassed probably by none 
in the state, in the accommodations 
for travellers. There are 9 churches 
in Winchester, 2 Presbyterian, 1 
Episcopalian, 2 Methodist's, ( 1 for co- 
lored persons,) 1 Roman Catholic, 1 
Lutheran, I Baptist, 1 Friend's or 
(Quaker's. The Episcopal church 
erected m 1829, is one of the best spe- 
cimens of Gothic artichecture in the 
state. It is much admired by stran- 
ger? for the beauty and appropriate- 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— FREDERICK. 



Ui 



ness of the style of architecture. It is is no place in the Union better sup- 
finished with great taste in the inte- plied with water, or of better quality 



rior, and has a fine toned organ 
There is no as3rlum in Winchester, 
but there are a great man}'- associa- 
tions for benevolent, religious or lite- 
rary purposes; such as the Bible So- 
ciety, Tract Society, with a flourish- 
ing Depository. Sunday School Union, 
with a good and increasing depository, 
for the supply of 7 counties around 
Winchester; ladies' Benevolent Socie- 
ty, for relieving and attending to the 
wants of the poor and destitute sick, 
ladies Colonization Society, a general 
Temperance Society, Young Men's 
Temperance and Colonization Socie- 
ties, a Mechanic's Society, a prospe- 
rous Masonic Lodge and Chapter, 2 
large fire companies, provided Avith 
engines, hose and necessary appara- 
tus. There is a Library and Lyceum of 
reading, to which is attached a good 
collection of minerals. The Library 
is yet small, which is partly to be at- 
tributed to the number of private Li- 
braries owned in the town. There 
are 2 printing offices in Winchester, 
one issues the Wi7ichester Virginian, 
the other, the Winchester Republican. 
There is also a monthly periodical 
published at the Republican office, for 
the publication of sermons, generally 
of living ministers of the Lutheran 
church, of all parts of the United 



Philadelphia boastsof its wa'.er works, 
but the water there is riv^^r water, 
whilst that supplied to the citizens of 
Winchester is spring water, cold 
enough to be used without ice during 
the summer. The water was intro- 
duced into the town 28 or 30 years 
ago by wooden pipes, through which 
it w'as conducted from a fine, never 
failing spring, about half a mile west 
of the town, — the right to the use of 
which, W'as reserved to the citizens 
of Winchester by Lord Fairfax, by 
express provision. The wooden pipes 
were taken up in 1828, and iron pipes 
put down in their places. The main 
pipe has a bore of about 6 inches : the 
lateral pipes about 3 inches. The 
length of the iron pipes is about 3 
ms. The whole cost to the corpora- 
tion did not exceed $12,500. The 
water is now convej^ed in these pipes 
through all the principal streets, and 
by lead pipes leading from the iron, 
into the yards of a majority of the 
cititizens, without their paying any 
water tax for the privilege. The wa- 
ter is carried to the extreme parts of 
the town, affording a constant and 
abundant supply for all the purposes 
of domestic use, and to extinguish fire 
if necessary; for which purpose, fire 
plugs are provided at convenient dis- 



States. It is extensively circulated, jtanccs. 
and well patronized by the members i This article will now be concluded, 
of this church. There are 2 Banks [with a brief notice of the internal im- 
in Winchester, the Farmers' Branch provemenls in contemplation, and in 
Bank, and the Bank of the Valley, progress connected w^th Winchester. 
W'ith branches at Romney, Lee.sburg These are the Valley turnpike, (for 
and Charle^tovvn. The Winchester | which the Legislature passed an act 
and Frederick County Savings Insti-ithe last session) to extend from Win- 
tution, incoporated last session of the chester to Harrisonburg. This road 



Legislature, has lately gone into ope 
ration with encouraging prospects. 
Winchester possesses one great and 
inestimable advantage as a place of 
residence, which would leave this ar- 
ticle imperfect not to notice in detail. 
We mean the never failing supply of 
pure, wholesome spring water. There 
44 



has not j-et been commenced, but 
w'hen made will greatly increase the 
travelling through this Valley, which 
presents great inducements to travel- 
lers, from the beauty of its scenery, and 
its mineral springs. Perhaps no part 
of the world affords a greater variety 
.of mineral springs, of qualities: in- 



346 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— GILES. 



estimable in the restoration of heaitli, f 
than the Valley of Virginia. Thej 
state road from Winchester to Park- 
ersburg, on the Ohio, is novv- being] 
made: it will be completed, it is 
thought, within 2 years, — its length 
is 235 ms. This will be a very im-j 
portant road in connecting the Atlan- 
tic with the western states ; but the 
great outlet for all these roads, and 
for the rich Valley of Virginia, will 
be the Winchester and Potomac Rail 
Road, commenced in 1833 : this road 
it is thought, will be completed in 
1836, — its length is about 31 ms. con- 
necting at Harper's Ferry, with those 
two grand national works, the Balti- 
more and Ohio Rail Road, and the! 
Chesapeake and Ohio Canal. The] 
effect of these improvements in rais- 
ing the value of property in Winches- 
ter, from bringing it in such close 



proximity with the eastern cities, and 
the natural mcrcase of business and 
population, must have an influence on 
the prosperity of this place — the ex- 
tent of which no one can foresee. If 
the same results attend these iraprove- 
jments which have been produced in 
jother places, Avhich are destitute of 
the s«OTC natural advantages, the pros- 
perity of Winchester must be increas- 
ed to an extent, unparalleled in all its 
previous history. 

Cmniy and Corf oration Courts 
are held on the Monday before the 
\st Tuesday in every month. Quar- 
terly in March, June, August and 
'November. 

Judge Parkkr, holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the \sl of May and JSovcvi- 
bcr. 



' Giles was created bv the Legislature in 1806, and formed from a por- 
tion of Tazewell and Monroe counties. It is bounded N. by Monroe, — N. 
E. by Botetourt,— E. and S. E. by Montgomery,— S. by Wythe,— S. W. by 
Tazewell, — and VV. by the great flat top mountain, which separates it from Lo- 
gan. The form of this county approaches to a half moon, and the length be- 
t\veen the points about 70 mil', s. It lies between lat. 37° 06' and 37° 43' 
N. and long, o^^ 15' and 4° l-j' W. of W. C. This county is very moun- 
tainous, the mean level of the cuhivated land being 1600 feet above the 
ocean. 

Several ridges of mountains pass through this county, the principal of 
which are Peier's and East River mountains. These are parts of the 
same ridge, which appear to have been split asunder by the waters of 
New river, which passes through them at the Big Fall. Near Parisburg, 
proudly preeminent stands The Angel's Rest, a pinnacle that overtops all 
the mountains of the neighborhood, and aflTords one of the most interesting 
prospects in the western country. The Salt Pond mountain also deserves 
particular notice. This mountain derives its name from the circumstance, 
that the old settlers of the country usually gathered their stock, that ran in 
the range at this place, for the purpose of givmg them salt. It is situated 
about 12 miles to the east of Parisburg; near the top of it, there is an im- 
mense lake of water of an unknown depth and 3 or 4 miles in circumfer- 
ence. It is said by the old settlers of the country <hat this pond has arisen 
from a spring which flowed into a kind of natural basin situated between 
two lofty mountains, and has gradually increased overtoping tree after tree, 
which grew on the sides of the mountain, until it at last fbund an outlet 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— GILES. 34? 

ov(M- lht> ritlife tliat unitos the two mountains. This pond now forms a 
b>'autifiil expanse of water near the summit of one of the loftiest mourt- 
tams in Virginia, which frequently excites the curiosity of strangers, and 
to which the gentry of the county often resort for the object of pleasure 
and amusement. 

In the upland and mountainous parts of the county the soil is barren and 
roclcy, but in the valleys between the mountains and on the low grounds 
of the creeks and rivers, the land is very fertile and produces freely every 
kind of grain. Ilemp is the principal staple, a considerable quantity of 
which is annually wagoned to Buchanan, at the head of boat navigation 
on James river. In a direction from S. E. to N. W. New river runs 
through this county, and fertilizes a large portion of its soil. The bottoms 
on each side of this stream are remarkably rich and constitute the most 
valuable part of the county, affording many hand.some country seats, which 
in .some instances are improved with substantial houses. This river is also 
remarkable for its fine fish, particularly the mud and blue cat, which are 
very much celebrated among travellers for their fine flavor and astonishing 
size, some weighing from GO to 70 pounds.- Other streams of less note 
penetrate through this county, the advantages derived from which are very 
cvjusiderable in a country like this, where tiie most choice spots are those 
which lie on the margin of water courses, and have been enriched by their 
fertilizing influence. 

The White Sulphur Springs of Giles county are supposed to be inferior 
in quality to none in the State, while they combine withthe excellence of their 
waters many advantages of natural scenery, which if they were well im- 
proved would give them a superiority over most of the watering places in 
the neighbormg counties, and would be a source of increa.sing wealth to 
the county of Giles. These springs are situated on the banks of New 
river, 9 miles F^. of Parisburg, on what is supposed to be the nearest route 
from that place to Christiansburg" in the county of Montgomery. Here 
the minil at one moment may be engaged with the most pleasing emotions, 
derived from the river scenery, and at the next it will be struck with tlie 
sifjht of the most awful and majestic cliffs, which at this place overhang 
the bed of the river, in all the pomp of lonely grandeur. In a few years 
if these spring:^ should be properly managed, and sufficient accommodations 
provided, they will allbrd one of the most delightful summer retreats in the 
western part of the State, — possessing every,advantage that the invalid can 
reasonable hope for, and presenting many attractive inducements for the 
votaries of pleasure and gaity. 

The most numerous religious sect of the county is that of the Metho- 
dists ; but they have as yet erected no house of worship deserving notice. 

Population in 1820, 4,522 — the county then including a large tract now 
included in Logan county— in 1830, 5,270. This county belongs to tlie 
IGlh judicial circuit, and 8th district. Tax paid in 1833, $504 21 — in 
1S34 on lots, i^^l 20— on land. ^266 15—298 slaves, ^74,50—2348 
horses, 8140 88—9 studs, $47 00—3 carryalls, ^2, 00—1 gig, 50 cts. 
Total, $553 23. Expended in educating poor children m 1S32, $231 66 
—in 1334. $200 50. 



348 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— GILES. 



TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Big Spring, P. O. 264 ms. S. W. 
of R. and 324 S. W. by W. of W. 

situated in the western part of the 
county, on the main post road lead- 
ing fiom Parisburg to Tazewell C. 
H. — 27 ms. from the former. It 
contains several dwelling houses, a 
grist mill, a wool carding machine, 
and a blacksmith shop. It is located 
within 100 yards of the line which 
divides the counties of Tazewell and 
Giles. Population 9 \vhites and 7 
blacks. 

Chapman's Mills, P. 0. 255 ms. 
S. W of R. 

PARISBURG, P. V. and county 
seat, 297 ms. S. W. by W. of W. C. 
and 240 S. W. from R., lat. 37^21' 
long. 3° 43' W. of W. C. This 
village is situated on the S. W. side 
of New river, three-fourths of a mile 
from its bank, where that stream 
passes through Peters' mountain, im- 
mediately above the gap, and directly 
on the main post road, 18 ms. from 
the Red Sulphur Springs. It was 
established by act of Assembly, and 
laid ofT in June 1805; but owing to 
its then being in one of the extreme 
frontier counties, the improvements 
have progressed but slowly. It con- 
tains, besides the ordinary county 
buildings, (which are handsome) about 
30 dwelling houses, (mostly built of 
stone) and a number of others in 
progress of erection, 4 mercantile 
stores, 2 taverns, 2 common schools, 
2 tan yards, 2 saddlers, 2 hatters, 2 
cabinet makers, 1 chair maker and 
painter, 1 boot and shoe factory, 1 
wheelwright, 1 tailor, and 1 brick 
and stone mason. Nine miles dis- 
tant from this village, are situated the 
Hygm7i Springs, a white sulphur — 
the water of which is supposed to 
contain medical properties inferior to 
none in Virginia. The scenery at 
these springs is grand ; they arc situ- 



ated immediately on the eastern bank 
of New river, and both opposite and 
below the springs the rocks present 
the most majestic appearance : there 
being several Natural Pillars that 
rise perpendicularly to the height of 
from 30 to 200 feet, and natural 
arches ; one pillar is denominated 
"Pompey's Pillar" — near ivhich is 
"Cassar's Arch :" the pillar and arch 
nearly join. Five miles from these 
springs, and 10 E. of Parisburg, is 
situated the Salt Pond, a natural 
lake. The mountain on which this 
lake or pond is situated, is supposed 
to be the highest in Virginia; being 
one of the spurs, or it might be called, 
jthe main Alleghany mountain. The 
'.situation of Parisburg is eligible and 
picturesque; being located at the ex- 
tremity of a mountain called "Angel's 
iRest," and Avhich is a continuation 
of what is further west called "Clinch 
■mountain." From the top of Angel's 
jRest, is an extensive view of New 
I river and the surrounding country. 
iNewbern, in Montgomery, can be 
seen at 22 miles distant — and various 
other places. There is a line of 
{stages running daily through this vil- 
'lage from Wythe C H. to Lewisburg, 
JGreenbrier county. — This line leaves 
'the main western route at Newbern, 
running from Washington City, to 
Knoxville, Tenn. There is also a 
mail from Franklin, and another from 
Tazewell C. H., running mto this 
place once a week. White popula- 
tion 170 persons; of whom 2 are 
resident attorneys, and 1 a regular 
physician — colored 34 — total 204. 

Coioity Courts are held on the last 
Monday in every month. Quarterly 
in March, Jjine August, and Oc- 
tober. 

Judge Brown holds his Circuit 
Superior Courts of Law and Chance- 
ry on the 9th of May and October. 



WESTERN VIRaiNIA-^GRAYSON. 
GRAYSOX. 



34i 



Graysox was established by the Legislature in the year 1793, from a 
portion of the county of Wythe. It is bounded N. by Wythe, — N. E. by 
MontiTomery,— E. by Patrick,— S. by Surry and Ashe counties of N. C— 
and W. by Washington. Its mean length" is 6GJ miles, mean breadth 14; 
and its area 927 square miles. It extends in lat. from 36" 33' to 36*^ 53\ 
and in long, from 3^ 28' to 4° 40' W. of W. C. Grayson is the most 
ea.stern of the southern counties of Virginia, which are comprised in the 
valley of the Ohio river. Great Kanawha rises in Ashe county of N. C. 
and flows northeastwardly into Grayson, and thence turning eastward about 
20 miles along the line of Va. and N. C; and turning N. N. E. it tra- 
verses ,Grayson, which it leaves by piercing the iron mountain. This 
county slopes northward, and is drained by innumerable creeks, which 
flow into the Great Kanawha, which is here called New river. The ele- 
vation of Grayson is about 1600 feet above the level of the ocean. 

Population "in 1810, 4,941— in 1820, 5,598— in 1830, 7,675. This coun- 
ty belongs to the 10th judicial circuit and 5th district. Tax paid in 1833, 
$1GS 45— in 1834 on lots, 810 54— on land, S232 90— 215 slaves. 853 75 
-—2238 horses, 8134 28—8 studs, 831 00—1 coach, $2 00—4 carryalls, 
84 50. Total, 8168 97. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, 
8544 1.5— in 1833, 8495 23. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Cr.wberry Plain, P. O. 277 
ms. S. W. by VV. of R. and 353 from 
W., situated on Cranberry creek, a 
small branch of the Great "Kanawha, 
which rises in the Iron mountains, 
and flows S. over the west angle o! 
Gi'aysen, into Ashe Co. N. C. 

GREENSVILLE, or GRAYSON 
C. H. P. V. and Seat of Justice, 276 
ms. from R. and 354 S! W. by \V. of 
W., situated on the right bank of 
New river, 25 ms. S. S. E. of Ever- 
sham, the county seat of Wythe. It 
contains besides the usual county 



buildings, 9 dwelling houses, 3 miscel- 
laneous stores, 1 tavern, and several 
mechanics. White population 49 
persons: of whom 1 is an attorney — ■ 
blacks 19 — total 68. 

Coii.nty Co7irts are held on tlie 4tk 
Monday in every month. Quarterly 
in March, June, August and Novem- 
ber. 

Judge Brown holds his Circuit 
Superior Courts of Law and Chance- 
ry on the lOth of April and Sep- 
tember. 



GRFIENBRIKR. 

Greenbrier was formed by the Legislature in 1777, and created from 
portions of Botetourt and Montgomery. It is bounded N. by Nicholas, 
and Pocahontas, — E. by Bath, and A'lleghany, — S. by Monroe,— and VV. 
by Great Kanawha, which separates it from Logan. Its mean length is 46 
miles, mean breadth 32A ; and area 1,409 square miles. It extends in lat. 
from 37° 40' to 38° 18' N. and in long. 3° to 4° 3' W. of W. C. It is prin- 
cipally drained by Greenbrier river, and its tributaries: but from its west- 



3jO western VIRGINIA— GREENBRIER. 

era border numerous creeks flow northwestwardly into Gauly river, the 
principal of which is ScwclTs creek.* It rises in Sewell's mouutain (the 

♦ The following is an extract IVom memoirs of Indian wars on the western fron- 
tier of Virginia, conmiunicated to the Philosophical Society of Virginia, by Charles 
A. Stuart, Esq. of Augusta Co. 

About the year ITiD, a person who was a citizen of the county of Frederick, and 
subject to paroxysms of lunacy, when influenced l)y such fits, usually made excur- 
sions into the wilderness, and "in his rambles we.stwardly, fell in on the waters of 
Greenbrier river. At that time, the covmtry on the western waters were but little 
known to the English inhabitants of the then colonies of America, being claimed by 
the French, who had co;nmenced settlements on the Ohio and its waters, west of the 
Alleghany mountains. The lunatic being surprised to fmd v.-aters running a differ- 
ent course from any he had before known, returned with the intelligence of his dis- 
covery, which did abound with game. This so;)n excited the enterprize of others. 
Two men from New England, of the name of Jacob Marlin and Stephen Sewell, 
took up a residence upon Greenbiier river ; but soon disagreeing in sentiment a quar- 
rel occasioned their separation, and Sewell, for the sake of peace, quit their cabin 
and made his abode in a large hollow tree. In this situation they were found by the 
late General Andrew Lewis,"in the year 17Jl. Mr. Lewis was appointed agent for a 
company of grantees, who obtained from the Governor and Council of Virginia, an 
order for one" hundred thousand acres of land lying on the waters of Greenbrier river, 
— and did, this year, proceed to make surveys to complete the quantity of said grant- 
ed lands ; and finding Marlin and Sev.'ell living in the neighborhood of each other, 
inquired what could induce them to live separate in a wilderness so distant from the 
habitations of any other human beings. Tiiey informed him that diiference of opin- 
ion had occasioned their separation, and that they had since enjoyed more tranquility 
and abetter understanding; for Sewell said, that each morning when they arose ami 
Marlin came out of the great house and he from his hollow tree, they saluted each 
other saying— good morning Mr. Marlin, and good morning Mr. Sewell, so that a 
good understanding then existed between them; but it did not last long, for Sewell 
removed about forty miles farther v.-est, to a creek that still bears his name. There 
the Indians found him and killed him. 

Previous to the year 177-3, Mr. Lewis had completed for the grantees, under the 
order of council, upwards of iifiy thousand acres ; — and the war then commencing 
between England and France, nothing further was done in the business until the year 
17(J1, when his majesty issued his proclamation commanding all his subjects within 
the bounds ot the colony of Virginia, who were living, or who had made se!llenient.s 
on the western waters, to remove from (hem, as the lands were claimed by the In- 
dians, and good policy required that a peaceable understanding should be preserved 
with them, to prevent hostilities on their part. The order of council was never after- 
wards carried into etfect, or his majesty's consent oV<tained to confirm it. 

At the commencement of the revolution, when tlie state of Virginia began to as- 
sume independence, and held a convention in I77(), some efibrts were made to have 
the order of council established under the new order of things then beginnmg to take 
place. But it was not confirmed; and co nmissioners were appointed in 1777, to 
grant certiticates to each individual who had made settlements on the western waters, 
in the state of Virginia, previous to the year 17oS and since, with preference accord- 
ing to the time of improvements, which certificates gave the holder a right to four 
hundred acres for his settlement claim, and the pre-emption of one thousand more, if 
so much were found clear of prior claims, and the holder chose to accept it. The 
following year, 1771, Greenbrier was separated from Botetourt county, — and the 
county took its name from the river, which was so named by old Colonel John Lewis, 
father to the late General, and one of the grantees under the order of council, who 
in company with his son Andrew^, exploring the country in 1751, entangled himself 
in a bunch' of green briers on the river, and declared he would ever after call the 
river Greenbrier river. 

After peace was confirmed between England and France, in the year 17i)l, the In- 
dians commenced hostilities in 176^, wlien all the inhabitants in Greenbrier were 
totally cut off by a partv of Indians, headed by the Corns-talk Avarrior. The chief 
settlements were on Muddy creek. These Indians, in number about sixty, introdiiced 
themselves into the people's houses under the mask of friendship, — and every civility, 
was offered the in by the people, providing them victuals and accommodations for 
tlieir entertainment', whr-n. on a sudden, they killed the men and made prisoners of 
tlie women and children. From thence they passed over into the Levels, v.'here some 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— GREENBRIER. 35P 

highest mountain in this count}',) and is one of the extreme ^outhem 
sources of Gauley river. Tlie surface of this county is much broken and 
in parts mountainous. The most conspicuous is that known by the name 
of Kcc/ifi/\s Nob, on which is a creek wliich rises near the top of the 
mountain, runs west and empties into New river, one mile below^'Rich- 
mond's falls. Kceney's Nob runs parallel with New river. The country 
here is a wilderness. The mountains are covered with a jrrowth of largo 
timber of various kinds, and are infected with reptiles, such as the rattle 
snake, copper head, black snake, &c. ifec. There is an abundance of deer, 
wild turkeys, pheasants, wolves, wild cats, panthers, bears, and a variety of 
small game. — The mean elevation of the farms above the ocean level is at 
least 1500 feet. The staples of this county are Indian corn, oats, buck- 
wheat and cattle. 

Population in IS20, 7,340, and in 1830, 9,006. This county belongs 
to the 17lh judicial circuit and 9th district. Tax paid in 1833, $1719 75 
— m 1834 on lots, $49 70— on land, S858 39—644 slaves, $161 00— 
4788 horses, $287 28—22 studs, $208 00—21 coaches, $42 50—2 

families were collected at the house of Archibald Gleiidciiin, (where the Hon. Balard 
Sinilh now lives.) There were between fifty aiul one luuuhed persons, men, women 
and children. There the Indians were cnteilaiueil, as at Muddy creek, in the most 
ho.spitablc manner. Clendenin having. just arrived from a hunt, with three fat elks,- 
they were plentifully feasted. In the mean time an old woman, with a sore leg, was 
showing her distress to an Indian, and inqniiing if he could administer to her relief; 
he said he thought he could— and drawing his tomahawk, instantly killed her and all 
the men almost'that were in the house. Conrad Yolkom only escaped, by being some 
distance from the house, wlien the outcries of the women and children alarmed him. 
He fled to Jackson's river and alarmed the people, who were unwilling to believe 
him until the approach of the Indians convinced them. All fled before them ; and 
they pursued on to Carr's creek, in Rockbridge county, where many families were 
killed and taken by them. At Clendenin's a scene of mueh cruelty "was performed ; 
and a negro woman, who was endeavoring to escape, killed her own child, who was 
pursuing her crying, lest she might be discovered by its cries. Mrs. Clendenin did 
not fail to abu.se the Indians M'ith terms of reproach, calling them cowards, &c. al- 
tliough the tomahawk was drawn over her head, with threats of instant death, and 
the .scalp of her husband lashed about her jaws. The prisoners were all taken over 
to Muddy creek, and a party of Indians retained them there till the return of the 
others from Carr's creek, when the whole were taken oft' toijether. On the day they 
started from the foot of Keeney's Knob, going over the mountain, Mrs. CHendeniu 
gave her infant child to a prisoner woman to carry, as the prisoners were in the 
centre of the line with the Indians in front and rear, and she escaped into a thicket 
and concealed herself until they all passed by. The cries of the child soon made 
the Indians inquire for the mother, who was mi.ssing; and one of them said he would 
soon bring the cow to her calf Taking the child by the heels, he beat its brains out 
against alree, and throwing it down m the path, all marched over it, till its guts 
were all trampled out with the horses. She told me she returned that night in the 
dark, to her own house, a distance of more than ten miles, and covered her husband's 
corpse with rails, which lay in the yard, where he was killed in endeavoring to 
escape over the fence, with one of hischildren in his arms; and then she went into 
a corn-field, where great fear came upon her, and she imagined she saw a man stand- 
ing by her, within a few steps. 

The Indians continued the war till 17^1, and with much depredation on the fron- 
tier inhabitants, making incursions as far as within a few miles of Staunton. An 
end, however, was put to the war in the fall of that year, by the march of an army 
imder the command o( Colonel Bouquet, a British officer, who assembled, with his 
regular troops, at Fort Pitt, some companies of militia from Augusta county nnd 
other places, — which. I bclive, either volunteered their services or were such as were 
ordered on the fioiuiers to protect the inhabitants during the war. Colonel Bouquet 
held a treaty with the Indians somewhere near Muskingum, and the Indinns deliver- 
ed up many prisoners, who returned to their friends, and a peace was concluded, 
which continued until 1774. 



352 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— GREENBRIER. 



stages, $4 00— 1 1 carryalls, $1 1 00— 10 gigs, $5 10. Total, $1,671 97. 
Expended in educating poor children in 1832, ii537 90 — in 1833, no com- 
missioners report. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c, 



Anthony's Creek, P. O. 254 ms. 
from VV. and 212 N. W. by W. of R. 
This post office is located in the north 
eastern part of the county, and is call- 
ed after the name of a small stream 
running N. E. and S. W. nearly 
parallel with the Greenbrier, until it 
empties into that river, 30 ms. from 
its source. It rises in small rills on 
the north side of the Alleghany 
mountain, and runs along its foot, 
gradually increasing to the width of 
about 50 feet at its mouth — in a beau- 
tiful well timbered valley. The 
land is fertile and well adapted to all 
kinds of grain and grazing. Horses, 
cattle, &c. are raised in abundance in 
this valley. There are between 70 
and 80 dwelling houses on the differ- 
ent farms, and the principal pursuit 
of the inhabitants is agriculture, 
though there are many mechanics, 
such as tanners, blacksmiths, gun- 
smiths, carpenters, joiners, cabinet 
makers, watch makers, boot and shoe 
makers, &c. There are 2 houses of 
public worship, (1 Presbyterian and 
1 Methodist,) 3 common schools, 1 
temperance society, 1 mercantile store, 
4 grist and 5 saw mills. The situa- 
tion of this post office is handsome 
and eligible, on the main post road 
leading from the Warm Springs in 
Bath county; which crosses the 
Greenbrier near the mouth of Antho- 
ny's creek, on a neat and permanent 
covered free bridge, near 200 feet in 
length, and Avhich intersects the Ka- 
nawha turnpike road 13 ms. west of 
Lewisburg; — distant 21 ms. from the 
county seat, and 13 N. E. of the 
White Sulphur Springs. This val- 
ley has the Alleghany mountain on 
the S. and other hills too steep for 
cultivation on the north. They af- 
ford, however, extensive ranges for 



stock in summer, and wild game for 
the hunter is still found. 

Blue Sulphur Springs, P. O. 
234 ms. VV. of R. and 276 S. W. by 
VV. of VV. C., situated 20 ms. from the 
White Sulphur Springs, 10 S. W. of 
Lewisburg, and 18 ms. N. of the 
Salt Sulphur Springs. They take 
their rise in a narrow, yet beautiful, 
and fertile valley, which is terminat- 
ed a short distance above by lofty- 
mountains. This valley is a branch 
or arm of a larger one, here thrown 
out as if to penetrate deeper into the 
solitude of the mountains, by whose 
lofty battlements it is almost encir- 
cled. These mountains present their 
towering heads high above the adja- 
cent country, covered with a richly 
variegated forest, which the timid 
deer seek for shelter from the eager 
pursuit of their enemies. From their 
rocky sides gush limpid springs, 
which uniting, form a beautiful rivu- 
let that irrigates and fertilizes tlie 
bottoms below. It pursues its gentle 
and meandering line down the valley 
which widens as the hills recede, un- 
til it is lost by its union with another 
stream of its own name. 

The mountain scenery is indeed 
rich and romantic, presenting an al- 
most endless variety, interesting and 
delightful. Here the painter may 
find employment in sketching the 
bold outline of nature's works — the 
botanist in contemplating the beauties 
'and varieties of the vegetable king- 
dom — and the philosopher and mine- 
ralogist, in speculating upon the un- 
explored regions of fossil and mine- 
ral formations, with which these moun- 
tains so richly abound. 

Within the precincts of the springs 
stand groves of sugar maple, intcr- 
.spcrscd with other forest trees, in ail 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— GREENBRIER 



353 



tlie beautiful irregularity of nature; 
under their luxuriant foilage, it- 
spread a verdont carpet, inviting the 
weary to rest, — the seekers of health 
and pleasure to recline, and inhale 
the pure breeze that passes by, and 
taste the salubrious fountain that bub- 
bles beneath. Nature has performed 
her part, and it remains alone for the 
hand of enterprise and industry, to 
develope the beauty and utility of this 
highly favored spot. The proprie- 
tors, sensible of its value and advan- 
tages, are now engaged in erecting 
upon it improvements commensurate 
with, the utmost demands of the pub- 
lic. Tlie buildings are planned and | 
commenced upon an extensive scale, 
uniting elegance, convenience, and{ 
durability. The grounds within the i 
precincts of the e.stablishment will be; 
so laid out as to promote the ease 
and enjoyment of the visiter, and at 
the same time, add to the convenience 
and embellishment of the premises. 
From 20 to 30 thousand dollars will 
be expended as soon as practicable; and 
other additional improvements made 
as the interests of the public may re- 
quire. The day is not distant, when the 
Blue Sulphur Springs will be brought 
into successful competition with any 
other Avatering place of fashionable 
resort in W-estern Virginia. 

Dr. Simpkins remarks, "that hav- 
ing practised medicine in the county 
of Greenbrier ibr some 9 or 10 years, 
I have had during that period annual 
manifestations of the healing powers 
of the Blue Sulphur water, in the 
following catalogue of diseases, viz. 
d\-spepsia in its first stage; dyspepsia 
or indigestion complicated with de- 
ranged function of the liver; habitual 
constipation, arising from a deficiency 
of healthy bile, from s-edentary habits, 
or from atony, or weakness of the 
bowels. In the sequel, of Asiatic 
cholera, I have had reason to believe 
the Blue Sulphur water to be a pow- 
erful restorative." 

In hemorrhoidal aflections it is p^r- 
15 



ticularly serviceable. In that endless 
variety of nervous and hypochon- 
driacal feelings, which have their 
origin in a deranged state of the di- 
gestive and glandular organs, the 
remedial efHcacy of the water, when 
brought inio judicious operation, will 
insure permanent relief; — also in that 
family of distempers which have their 
seat in the skin, the Blue Sulphur 
water may be regarded as a never 
failing remedy. 

Cases of great debility and ema- 
ciation of system, produced by a long 
existence of some local disease, it is 
peculiarly adapted. 

In all affections growing out of 
some perversion in the uterine func- 
tion ; — as hysteria, chlorosis, or green 
sickness; partial or total suppression 
of the menstruel secretion, &c., the 
Blue Sulphur water may be resorted 
to in full confidence of obtaining 
speedy relief 

From the tried virtues of this 
medical spring in the list of diseases 
above enumerated, I think we may 
correctly infer, that it holds at least 
three active medicinal qualities in its 
composition, viz. a tonic quality, 
which admirably sustains and hus- 
bands the debilitated system, while 
the alimentary canal, and glandular 
organs, are efficiently operated upon 
by its cathartic and deobstruent povv- 
'ers. 

Clxntonvili-k, p. O 231 ms. N 
'W. of R. and 273 from W., situated 
on the James and Kanawha turnpike, 
near the junction of the Warm 
Spring and old State road, 11 ms 
west of Lewisburg, 13 ms. S. W of 
Frankfort, 44 S. E. of Summerviile, 
39 E of Fayette C H. and 8 ms. 
W. of ScwelTs mountain. The 
ridge which divides the lime from 
the freestone country, is in the imme- 
diate vicinity of this place. A daily 
and a weekly mail arrive at this vil- 
lage. The improvements consist of 
i several dwelling houses, 1 house of 
entertainment, 1 miscellaneous store. 



354 WESTERN VIRGINIA— GREENBRIER. 

h blacksmith shop, I cabinet maker's, whom 7 are attorneys, and 3 regular 
establishment, and 1 Methodist house physicians. , r -, n> 

of worship. Population 16 whites The western branch of the Court 
and 8 blacks. of Appeals sets here, and commences 

Frankfort, P. V. 231 ms. from its session the ]st Monday \x\ July, 
R and 273 S. W. of W., situated 10;and if business requires may set 90 
ms. N. E. of Lewisburg, and 3 W. ofidays. The U. S. District Court sets 
Greenbrier river, in a "beautiful and on the Friday ^uccee Am g the \st 
wealthy part of the countv! It con-\ M-onday of April and September. 
tains about 50 dwelling" houses, ll County Courts axe heU on ihe ith 
Methodist house of worship, 2 covaAMonday in every month; — Quarter- 
mon schools, 1 for males and 1 for,/?/ in March, June, August and JVo- 
females, 2 mercantile stores, 2 taverns, I vewjiifvr. 

1 tanyard, 1 saddler, and various oth-! Circuit Superior Courts of Law 
er mechanics. Population 230 per-land Chancery are held on the lOthof 
sons; of Avhom 1 is an attorney, and^May and Octoher, by Judge Tay- 

2 are regular physicians. There are | lor. 

very extensive sales of stock annuallyj Lick Creek, P. O. 236 ms. from 
effected in the neighborhood of thislR. and 293 N. W. by W. of W., situ- 
viUage. ated near the county line of Fayette. 

HocKMAX, P. O. 233 ms. from R.! It contains numerous dwelling houses, 
and 275 S. VV. by W of W. land several mechanics. Its popula- 

LEWISBURG, P. V. and Seat of iion is 280. The land on the creek 
Justice, 221 ms. VV. of R. and 263 S is of good quality, producing well, In- 
W. by W. of W.; in lat. 37° . 48' N. dian corn, wheat, rye, oats and pota- 
&nd long. 3° 26' W. of W. C. This toes, and table vegetables in abun- 
village fs situated near the southern dance. There are 3 grist mills in 
border of the county, immediately onjthe vicinity. A large stream of sul- 
the James river and Kanawha turn-jphur water is found 5 ms. distant from 
pike, equi-distant 100 ms. from|this P. O. near the mouth of the 
Charleston, Kanawha, and Staunton, jcreek. 

Augusta, 9 ms. west of the White! Maysville, P. O. 224 ms. from 
Sulphur, and 12 east of the Blue Sul- R. and 266 s. W- by W- of W- 

Meadow Dale, P. O. 246 ms. 

from R. and 288 from W. 

Sewell Mountain, P. O. 252 
ms. from R. and 294 S. W. by W. of 
W-, situated in the western part of the 
county. 

Spring Creek, P. O. 212 ms. 

from R. and 254 S. W. by W. of W- 

White Sulphur Springs, P. O. 

212 ms. W- of R. and 254 S. W- of 

W., situated in the eastern part of the 



phur Springs. Besides the ordinary 
county buildings, it contains 101 
dwelling houses, 3 houses of public 
worship, (1 Baptist, 1 Presbyterian, 
and 1 Methodist) 1 academy, 1 com- 
mon school, and 3 Sunday schools, 6 
mercantile stores, 1 printing ofiice, is- 
suing a weekly paper, 2 tanyards, 3 
saddlers, 4 blacksmith shops, 2 cop- 
per smiths and tin plate Avorkers, 3 
brick layers, 4 house carpenters, 4 

tailor shops, 2 cabinet makers, 2jcounty, 9 ms. S. E. by E. of Lewis- 
watch and clock makers, 2 wagon ma-|burg. We regret that the proprietors 
kers, and 3 liotels. The situation ofjhave not thought proper, to reply to 
this village, is in a healthy, moun- 
tainous region. It has been rapidly 
improving for the last 3 or 4 years 



the repeated applications, made to 

them for a description of this cele- 

^ brated, and delightful Avatering place. 

Population about 750 persons; oif The great beauty of the place, the ex- 



WESTERN VIROINIA— MAMPSITIRE. 



385 



tensive building's erected and yet erect- 
ing, and always insulTicient, — the vast 
concourse of visiters, the medicinal 
powers of the waters, &.c. are subjects 
of which a detailed account mi!,''ht 
have been written, which would have 
been interesting not only to this state, 
but to the whole country, which is 
beginning to appreciate die excellence 



believe the stoclf has never been taken. 
The property is now chiefly owned 
by Mr. Caldwell. The capital au- 
thorized by the charter is §.500,000, 
(of which not loss than three-fifths arc 
to be held by other than the present 
proprietors) or 5U00 lihares at $100 
each. 

"We knew the White Sulpliur, 



of these waters. Already there is a when the accommodations were con- 
vast concourse of strangers, from thelfined, and much unequal to the de- 
north and the south, the east and thejmand. Those accommodations have 
west, coming from the din and bustle of rapidly expanded, year after year, but 
the city, or the baneful miasmata of they are still as inadequate as 1'2 years 
the marshes, to find health and plea- ago. The multitudes who flock thith- 
sure at the Virginia Springs, amongjer for recreation or health, increase 
which this shines forth : [with the resources of the country and 

"Ut limd inter minores .sideres." its population, and wall continue to in- 
It has never been our misfortunekrease beyond what would now ap- 
to be compelled to seek it for health,, P<-'ar a rational calculation. As a 
but as an agrrcablc summer retreat, Property it is impossible to estimate 
no place can surpass it. We pre- its worth. Some 10 years ago it was 
sume the buildings in theapproaching^stimatcd at from 75 to $1.50,000. It 



summer of 1835, Avill be sufficient to 
accommodate 400 persons. Several 
large and handsome hotels have 



has ascended in speculation to 500.- 
000^Z50,000, and 81,000,000. A few 
yeais hence, when further improved, 



.sprung up in the neighborhood, for this will unquestionably be thought 
the distance of 6 or 7 nis. with the far below the irue value; for although 
view of merely accomodating the it is possible that as good^sulphur wa- 
eompany, over-flowing from the lim-ter may be found, better can never be, 
ited accommodation at the Springs, and the established fame of the White 
The General Assembly in the session Sulphur must at all times, keep doAVU 
of 1833-4, granted a charter of in- destructive competuion." 
corporation to the proprietors, but we; 



IIAMPSIIIIIT]* 

Hampshire was established by the Legislature in 1754, from a portion 
of Augusta and Frederick. It is bounded by Morgan N. E , Frederick E , 
Hardy 3. and Potomac and Alleghany county of Maryland, N. E and N. 
Its mean length is about 33 ms. ; mean breadth 30: and area 989 sq. ms. 
It extends in lat. from 1^ 28', to 2^ 12' W. of W- C. A large proportion of 
the soil is poor, and much that is cultivated, is on steep acclivities. It never- 
theless produces an abundance of wheat of the first quality, for a few crops 
after it is first cleared, and would continue to produce well, were it judi- 
ciously cultivated, as gypsum acts powerfully upon it. The high moun- 
tains are untillable, but would afford an excellent range for sheep, both as 
to the quality of mutton and avooI which would be produced, could the at- 
tention of the inhabitants be turned th.Tt way The people inbribiting the 



S5G WESTERN VIRGINIA— HAMPSHIRE. 

liiUs and mountains, though poor, are honest and Jiardy, and independent, 
living comfortably upon the produce of their own lands. 

The principal streams are South branch of Potomac, the North branch of 
Potomac, the main river Potomac, and the great Cacapon. On all of these 
there are extensive and fertile low grounds. The South branch has long 
been celebrated for its rich, and inexhaustible bottom lands. In the county 
of Hardy, through which the South branch flows, before it enters Hampshire, 
the iowgrounds on this river as regards the fertility, may be styled the 
garden spot of Virginia, and are not surpassed in natural productiveness by 
any perhaps in the world. They have been known to be cultivated in In/ 
dian corn, in some instances, for 20, 30 or 40 years in succession, with very- 
little dimunition of their product. In Hampshire the low grounds become 
narrow, Avith some small change in the quality of the soil, but are estimated 
at very high prices by the owners. They have sold at the extravagant 
price of 100 and $150 per acre, and in Plardy, as high as $300, but those 
days have past. The bottoms on the North branch are also rich, but infc- 
lior to those on the South. 

On the great Cacapon which flows in a course of 40 ms. and upwards 
through the county, the low grounds are inferior to those on the North 
branch. Patterson's creek also flows through the whole breadth of the 
county, having fine bottom lands on its margin throughout its course. The 
face of the country here, and in the county of Hardy, give evidence of 
convulsions and disruptions, which we might suppose took place in a war 
between rivers and mountains at some remote period, from which it might 
be infered, that the rich valley on the South branch, had at one time been 
a lake ; that the waters had risen until they had broken over the mountains 
in ditferent places, and torn for themselves a passage through, quite down 
to their bases; leaving tremendous precipices of recks of astonishing height, 
which overhang the traveller on the road, passing through those breaches 
on the narrow margin, now formed between the river and the rocks. One 
of these is to be seen about 4 ms. below the town of Romney, constituting 
an object of great grandeur and sublimity to the beholder ; and what height* 
ens his wonder and curiosity, still more, it appears as if the capricious river 
not content with the victory it had gained, or the course it had taken: about 
3 or 4 ms. below, it breaks through the same mountain again, to the same 
side on which it had previously flowed, leaving a similar precipice op its 
opposite side. 

But one of the most puzzelling curiosities in this county, is what is called 
the Ice mountain. Jt appears to be an entire pile of stone from its base to 
its summit, about the size of building stone, destitute of soil or clay, trees 
or shrubs, Avith few exceptions. It is fully exposed to the whole power of 
the sun's rays for the greatest part of the day, yet throughout the whole o{ 
the hottest summer, on any part of this mountain thus exposed to the sun, 
lumps of ice may be found on turning up the stones to the depth of about a 
foot, which shews that the mineralogical or chemical composition of the 
mountain, is such as to preserve ice in hot weather, if not to produce it: but 
what that composition is, has not yet been ascertained, though it is notorious 
that the ice may be found as stated. This natural ice house is situated near 
the North River Mills, and near the old road leading from Romney to 
Winchester, about 17 ms. from the former, — in the north western sectioi-). 
of the corinty, on the margin of the North branch of the Potomac. The 
boundary at that place between Virginia and Maryland, are immense fields 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— HAMPSHIRE. 



3r>7 



of biUiniinous coal, which have lately attracted tlie attonlion of capitalists 
from the cities, who are at this time rapid!}' purchasing- them up, with a 
•view to the great profits wliich it is contemplated they will yieU, wjien the 
Chesapeake and Ohio Canal shall reach them. The calculation is no doubt 
a rational one, when the small expense which it will require to place tliis 
coal in the boat, and the facility of carrying it to market on the canal (if ii 
should be made) is considered. Near to these coal fields there are iudica- 
.cations of iron ore in large quantities, affording the most ample ineans oi 
competing with England in the cheapness of bar iron for Rail Roads, &,c.: 
for it is well known that where iron is made by stone coal instead of wood 
coal, and by rolling it out in mills instead of hammering, it can be sold for 
one half the price which it must cost to make it by charcoal and forge ham- 
mers, as is practisexl now in the United Sates with few exceptions. There 
are large deposits of iron ore over the wliole country. It is thought to be 
more abundant in this, than in any other county in the state. Along the 
great Cacapon, from its source to its rnoLith, the appearance of large mines 
of it, is to be seen in almost every ridge. Very little of it has yet been 
worked, but the greatest part of what has been tried, is found to be of the 
best quality. -In fact for the manufacture of iron, the great Cacapon may 
become to Virginia, what Juniata has to Pennsylvania, a great source of 
wealth. The men of wealth on the South branch, and in other parts of the 
county, have hitherto been so entirely engrossed in fattening beef for mar- 
ket, that they have thought very little of improving any other resource of 
the country, not even in erecting miills, for manufacturing flour; but it is to 
be hoped, that the north western turnpike, now making, which passes 
{:hrough the whole length of the country from east to west, will bring its 
other resources into- action which were locked up before by the mountains. 
The lowest elevation of this county is along the branches of the Potomac, 
and this exceeds oOO ft. Population in 1820, 10,880—1830, 11,279. It 
belongs to the 13th judicial circuit, and 7th district. Tax paid in 1833, 
$2,399 27— in 1834, on lots, $19 01— on land, $1,G31 86—703 slaves, 
B175 75— 4,92') horses, $29.5 50— 22 studs, $169 00—6 coaches, $13 00 
22 carrvalls, $22 00—7 gigs, $5 80. Total, $2,411 92. Expended in 
educating poor children in 1832, $912 14— in 1834, $949 00. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Burlington, P. O. 205 ms. from 
R. and 126 N. N. W. of W^ashing- 
ton City, situated on a small water 
course, called Patterson's creek. It 
contains a mercantile store, a house 
of entertainment, several houses oc- 
jcupied by mechanics, and a house of 
public worship, free for all denomina- 
tions. The mail passes and repasses 
this post office once a week. A new 
route has been lately established from 
this place, to Smith's Farm in Alle- 
ghany county, Maryland; on which 
ihe mail passes to and fro once a 
>yeek. The north western turnpike 



from Winchester to the Ohio, passes 
inunediately through this place, hav- 
ing passed through Romney, the 
:ounty seat, 1 1 ms. E. 

Cold Strkam Mill and P. O. 
172 ms. from R. and 93 N. W. by 
\V. of W. This village is situated 
20 ms. N. W. of Winchester, 21 S. 
E. of Romney, and 2 N. of the Par- 
kersburg and Winchester road. It 
contains, 12 dwelling houses, 1 Epis- 
:opalian, and 1 Presbyterian house of 
worship, 1 classical school, 1 mer- 
cantile store, 1 woollen manufactory, 
1 extensive manufacturing Hour mill, 



358 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— HAMPSHIRE. 



2 saw mills, 2 gunsmiths, doing a 
considei"able business annually, 1 
cabinet maker, and various other me- 
chanics. Population G8 whites, 2 of 
whom are physicians, and 12 color- 
ed, — total 80. Much timber is car- 
ried in boats and rafts from this place, 
down the Big Cacapon to the Poto- 
mac, and thence to various markets. 
The Cold Stream is one of the best 
water courses in the state; on it are 
several mill seats and manufactories; 
it flows abundantly in the dryest sea- 
son, and never freezes in winter. It 
empties into the Cacapon river, about 
50 yards above the woollen factory 
before mentioned. The bottom and 
level lands in this neighborhood are 
fertile, producing corn, wheat oats, 
rye, &c., and are improved by clover 
and plaster. The country around is 
somewhat mountainous, generally 
high and rocky. Six miles N. of 
this place is the famous Ice mountain 
spoken of in the general description 
of Virginia in the first part of the 
work. The mountain is situated 
near North river, and on the north 
west side of the mountain. By re- 
moving the stones for a about a foot 
below the surface, ice may be had in 
any quantity in the dryest and liot- 
test season of the year. 

Dillon's Run,' P. O. 179 ms. N. 
W. of R. and 100 N. W. of W., sit- 
uated 16 miles E. of Romney, the 
county seat 

Frankfort, P. O. 203 ms. from 
R. and 124 ms. N. W. by W. of W., 
situated near the right bank of Pat- 
terson's creek, in the northern part 
of the county. It contains 2.'> dwel- 
ling houses, 1 Episcopalian house of 
worship, 3 miscellaneous stores, 2 
taverns, 1 manufacturing (lour mill, 
1 tan yard, 1 saddler, 2 blacksmith 
shops, 1 cooper, 1 wagon maker, 1 
hatter, 1 chair maker, and 3 boot and 
shoe factories. Population 1 4G 
whites, including 1 physician, and 13 
colored, — total 159. 

Glencoe, P. O. 170 m.?, from R 



and 91 N. of W. Glencoe though 
called a village, is simply a po.st office, 
at which is kept a mercantile store 
of considerable notoriety. It is situ- 
ated on the road leading from Win- 
chester to Romney, 19 ins. from the 
former, and 25 from the latter. In 
the vicinity on the great Cacapon are 
situated 2 extensive manufacturing 
flour mills, an iion forge, in great 
repute, 2 tan yards, several wagon 
makers, and blacksmith shops; and 
various other mechanics in the neigh- 
borhood. Within 10 ms. of this 
place are situated the celebrated Ca- 
pon Springs, which are famed for 
the medical qualities of their waters. 
The accommodations are comfortable 
and convenient, and there are gener- 
ally in the summer months from 50 
to 70 boarders, who resort to these 
springs for health and pleasure. The 
country around is extremely rough 
and mountainous. The great Caca- 
pon at its head, takes the name of 
Lost river, from the fact that it dis- 
appears, and after taking a sul)terra- 
neous passage for some considerable 
distance, is seen again. When this 
stream is high great quantities of 
lumber are conveyed to Harper's 
Ferry, Georgetown, Washington 
Citj'^, and Alexandria. Some years 
since the Cacapon and North river 
company was created with a view of 
making these streams navigable. 
Five miles distant from this place, 
there is an extensive vineyard, be- 
longing to Gen'l Lockhart, in a flou- 
rishing condition, the wine of which 
is said for flavor and richnes.s, nearly 
to equal any imported. He manu- 
factured in each of the successive 
years of 1832-3, from 5 acres, 30 
barrels. The diflerent religious de- 
nominations in this section are Pres- 
byterians, Baptists and Methodists. 

Hanging Rock, P. O. 182 ms. 
from R. and 103 S. W. by W. of W., 
situated 28 ms. W. of Winchester, 
and 15 E. of Romney, the county 
seat. Hanging Rock post office de- 



WESTEItN VIRtUNlA— HAMPSHIRE. 



359 



tives its name from a large rock that 
projects or hangs over the road, pass- 
ing through a gap of the North river 
mountain, where the northwestern 
turnpike road, lately located from 
Winchester to the Ohio river, now 
passes. This Rock is situated about 
a fourth ol a mile on the E. side of 
the North river, a stream navigable 
for rafts, boats, &c. It empties into 
great Cacapon, 11 ms. N. E. of this 
place. The post oflice was first es- 
tablished near the rock, but has been 
twice moved, — its present location is 
25 miles west of the rock. Ill the 
vicinity there are 2 houses of public 
worship, (1 Methodist called Hang- 
ing Rock Meeting House, the other 
free for all denominations, called 
Zioii's Church,) 1 manufacturing 
flour mill, and 1 grist mill. Two 
miles below the rock, on a small 
stream emptying into North river, 4 
miles above this place, are 2 grist and 
1 oil mill, and carding machine. The 
lands on North river are generally 
fertile and productive, and those lying 
between North river and South 
Branch of Potomac, are mostly brok 



travcller,being unconnected with any 
other high ground, and loaded with 
a growth of large timber. There 
has been lately erected here a house 
of entertainment. Little Cacapon 
has its source in the Grassy Lick, oa 
Stoney mountains, in the southwest 
part of the county, runs northeast 50 
miles, and after receiving numerous 
tributaries, empties into the Potomac 
river. — This stream was declared a 
public highway by an act of the Vir- 
ginia Legislature in 1832, and is 
navigable for boats, rafts, &c. 20 ms. 
from its mouth. The soil on this 
creek is of good quality, producing 
well wheat, corn, rye, oats, &c. 
There are 1 manufacturing flour mill, 
7 saw and 5 grist mills, located on 
this stream ; and in its vicinity are 3 
houses of public Avorship, (2 Baptist 
and 1 Presbyterian.) The uplands 
in the neighborhood are slate soil, 
and when first cleared produce good 
wheat,_ corn, Ace. The mountains 
and hills abound in pine of the best 
quality. The principal mountains 
are Spring Gap and Little Capon 
\mountalns on the east, — and Toicn 



en and hilly, but where well cultiva- [///// mountain on the Avest, running 
ted are tolerably productive. The parallel with the stream. 



turnpike crosses 3 considerable moun- 
tains, viz. North rii:cr, Sandi/ ridge, 
and Dillo?i's mountains. 



North River Mills, P. O. 178 
ms. from R. and 99 from W. 

North River Meeting House, 



Little Cacapon, river and P. O. jP. O 194 ms. from R. and 115 N. 
188 ms. from R. and 109 from W. |w. by W. of W. 
The P. O. is situated 1 mile W. ofj Paddytown, P. V. 214 ms. from 
Little Cacapon river, 14 N. E. of R. and 135 N. W. by W. of W. 
Romney, and 7 E. of Springfield, atjThis small but romantic village con- 
ihe Sulphur Springs, on the Spring- jtains G dwelling houses, 1 mercantile 
field road. The Avater of this spring istore, 1 manufacturing flour mill ; and 
is strongly impregnated Avith mine- there are in the immediate vicinity, 1 



rals, is pleasant to the taste, and is 
somcAvhat noted for its salubrious 
efficacy. At this spring there is a 
natural mound, composed of rock 
and earth, about 20 feet in height and 



forge and furnace. It is situated up- 
on the banks of the North Branch of 
Potomac river, betAVcen Knobleij, 
New Creek and Alleghany moun- 
tains, commanding a beautiful pros- 



60 in circumference at its base; Avithjpect of the latter, Avhich lies Avithin 
the main post road passing on one 'one and a half mile distant : — Queen's 
side, and a small stream of Avater on \Poinl-AnA Slim Bottom Hill. Q.ueen's 
the other. This m-ound invariably i Point is remarkable for the magnifi- 
attracts the attention of the passing Icent aspect, Avhich is here presented 



360 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— MAMPSMIRfi. 



ta the s^pecfator. This Point over- 
looks the river, and is upwards of 
600 feet high, the extremity or top of 
\vhich is decorated with a large pro- 
jecting rock itpwards of 100 feet in 
height. Through this rock Avhich 
is about 200 feet in width there is a 
kind of avenue or alley, thro' which 
visitors generally pass. This point 
is a place of considerable resort, dur- 
ing the summer season, and derives 
its name from the circumstance of a 
traveller by the name of Glueen, hav- 
ing attempted to pass by the foot path, 
which leads around the base of the 
rock, upon horseback, but the feet of 
the animal slipping he was precipi- 
tated with his rider over the preci 
pice, and both were killed. 

Slim Bottom Hill is also a place 
of some resort, and from its novelty 
deserves to be partially noticed. The 
most conspicuous part of this place 
is a large prominent projecting rock 
which overhangs the river, the height 
of Avhich is about 90 feet. This 
rock appears to have been at one time 
connected with the opposite rock on 
the Maryland side. Thi.? general 
opinion is derived from their similar- 
ity, and the fact of their being so near 
in contact, the river only separating 
them. There are several other natu- 
ral curiosities immediately in the vi- 
cinity of this village Avorthy of no- 
tice ; amongst others is a cavern or 
cave, upon the side of Martin^ s Hill, 
(another noted point not much short of 
one thousand feet high,) from whence 
there flows a very small stream. 
This stream in this cave during the 
.summer season produces considerable 
quantities of excellent ice. This re- 
markable phenomenon can only be 
solved in the following manner. Its 
local situation being due north, and 
the lower mouth being at the base of 
the hill, and ascending gradually a 
distance of perhaps 30 or 40 feet be- 
low the surface of the earth, nearly 
to the top of the. hill, Avherc it again 
makes its appearance (though the 



cavity is rather small to make it prac- 
ticable for persons to pass through.) 
It thereby gives the cold northern 
winds free access, which naturally 
freezes the water in winter, and the 
cavity serves as an icehouse, during 
the summer. There is also a similar 
cave on the land of Janney's heirs, 
whence their issues a perpetual 
breeze which is extremely cold. 
This spot has a small house built 
over it and is occupied as a milk 
house. There is in this vicinity on 
the Ignds of J. Singleton, a Salt 
spring, from which there has been 
several barrels of good salt manufac- 
tured. 

ROMNEY, P. V. and seat of jus- 
tice, on the right bank of the South 
Branch of Potomac, 195 ms. from R. 
116 N.N. W. of W., 39 ms./ina 
similar direction from Winchester, 
and 28 S. of Cumberland in Mary- 
land, situated in lat. 49° 20' N. and 
long. !° 42' W. of W. C. Popu- 
lation in 1830, 346, of whom 100 
were colored persons. 

County Courts axe held on the iih 
Monday in every month : — Quarter' 
ly in March, June, August and No- 
vember. 

Judge Parker holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the 2Qth of April and I2ik 
September. 

Shkrrard's Store, P. O. 174 
ms. from R. and 95 from W. 

Sheetz's Mill, P.O. 205 ms. from 
R. and 1 26 N. W. by W. of W. 

Springiield, p. V. 197 ms. from 
R. and 118 N. W by W. of #. 
This village is sitiiated at the ihler- 
seclioii of the post roads, leading 
from Winchester to the national turn- 
pike, (42 ms. from the former and 1 7 
from the latter) and the road leading 
from Romney, to Old Town, Md., be- 
tween the South and North Branches 
of the Potomac river, 1 mile from 
the former and 7 from the latter. It 
contains 30 dwelling houses, 2 houses 
o^ public wor.ship, (1 Presbyterian 



WESTERN VIRGINIA—HARDY. 361 

atid 1 Methodist,) 1 seminary in,bly one of the healthiest villages m 
\Vhich are taught all the necessary | the Union, surrounded by beautiful 
branches of an English education, 2j mountain scenery, and in the neigh- 
mercantile stores, 3 taverns, 1 tan I borhood of forests, well stocked with 
yard, 1 saddler, 3 boot and shoe fac- wild game, such as deer, turkeys, 
tories, 2 smith shops, 2 tailors, 1 pheasants, squirrels, &c. Papulation 
chair maker, 1 house joiner, and 1 1 162 persons^ of whom 1 is a physi- 
wagon maker. Springfield is proba cian. 



HARDY, 

FIardy was cvoated by the Legislature in 1786, and formed from a por- 
tion of Hampshire county. It is bounded by Hampshire N. and N. E., She- 
nandoah E., Rockingham S. E., Pendleton S., Randolph S. W. and W. and 
Alleghany county, of Maryland, N. W. ; its mean length is 42 ms; breadth 
1/- and area 714 "sq. ms., extending in lat. from 38° 43', to 39° 18' N. and 
in long, from 1° 43', to 2° 30' W. of W. C. The surface of Hardy inclines 
to the N. E. and is traversed in that direction by the South branch, and sev- 
ral other tributaries of the Potomac ; with lateral chains of mountains in- 
tervening, which also extend in a similar direction with the rivers. The 
surface is much broken, and for the most part very rocky and sterile; but 
tracts of excellent land, lie on the streams, and in the mountain vallies. The 
mean elevation of the arable land, is perhaps 1000 ft. above the ocean. 
There are some valuable banks of iron ore in this county, among these the 
one near the Cacapon furnace, about 30 ms. from Winchester, deserves to 
be mentioned. Population in 1820, 5,700— in 1830, 6,778. This county 
belongs to the 14th judicial circuit, and 7th district. Tax paid in 1833, 
82,549 64— in 1834, on lots, $34 21— on land. $1,999 81— 607 slaves. 
^151 75— 3,837 horses, $230 22— 20 studs, $173 00 — 8 coaches, 817 50 
3 carryalls, $3 00. Total, $2,603 49. Expended in educating poor chil- 
dren in 1832, $332 23— in 1.833, $665 87. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &^: 

Federal Hill, P O. 178 ras. W house of public worship, free iot atll 
of R. and 125 W. of W C, sitruated I detTominations» 1 English school. 2 
in the eastern part of the county. i Bible, I tract and 1 temperance socie- 

Hazard Forge, P. O. 212 rns^ty, I public library well supported, 5 
from R. and 145 W. of W. C i mercantile stores, 1 tanyard, 2 sad- 

MOOR FIELDS, P. V.&ndSeoAcf'dlers, 1 hatter. 3 smith shops, 2 cabi- 
Jwstice, 195 ms from R. and 128 W. net makers, 2 house carpenters, 2 boot 
of W. C. in lat 39''^ 02' N. and long. land shoe factories, 3 tailors, 1 wagon 
2 " 02' W. of W. C. This village i$' maker, and 2 milliners. In the vi- 
sitiiated on the right bank of the South Icinity are 3 manufacturing flour mills 
branch of the Potomac, at the iunc jand 2 country mills, 2 carding and 
tion of the South fork, in one of the I fulling and dying machine. Fopu- 
richeot vallies in western Virginia, 50 lation 350 persons ; of whom 3 are at- 
ms. a little o. W. of Winchester. Ititorneys, and 4 regular physicians. 
contains besides the usual oountv| Cownty Courts q.xq held, on (ke. Zi 
buildings, -50 dwelling hou.v:", 11 7F?Ac«<»i/ in every month,— Q«rtr^e?Vy 
46 ^ 



362 WESTERN VIRGINIA— HARRISON. 

m March, June, August and Novem-\seyera\ ms. under ground. This vil- 
l,er. lage was laid off in 1S27, and now 

Judge Smith holds his Circuit contains 17 dwelling houses, 1 house 
Superior Courts of Law and Chan- ot public worship, free for all denom- 
cery on the 2lst of April and Sc;;- inations, 1 common school, 2 taverns, 
tember. |l tanyard, 1 saddler, 1 boot and shoe 

Lost River, P. O. 130 ms. W. of maker, 2 tailors, 1 wagon maker, 1 



W. C. situated in the eastern part of 
the county. 

Luney's Creek, P. O. 201 ms. 
from R. and 141 W. of W., "situated 
1 ms. W. of Moor Field. 

Trout Run, or Wardensville, 
Election Precinct and P. V. 180 ms. 
from R. and 101 W. of W. This 
village is situated on Trout Run, 
which here unites with Lost River, 
and forms the great Cacapon. The 
great Cacapon is navigable at some 
seasons of the year, — its principal 
stream Lost River, rises within 2 ms. 



chair maker, 1 hatter, 1 house joiner, 
1 milliner and mantua maker, 1 stone 
mason, and 1 smith shop. Popula- 
tion 75 persons; of whom 1 is a phy- 
sician. In the vicinity of this place, 
are 2 manufacturing flour mills, and 
4 iron works, 2 forges for manufac- 
ture of bar iron, and 2 furnaces for 
making pig iron and castings. War- 
densville is situated 28 ms. from Win- 
chester, 18 from Woodstock, and equi 
distant 26 from the county seats of 
Hardy and Hampshire. It is destin- 
ed from its central situation, to become 



of WardeusviJle, after having passed ;a place of some importance. 



HAllKISON. 

Harrison was created in 1784, and formed from a portion of Mononga- 
lia. It is bounded N. and N. E. by Monongalia, E. by Randolph, S. by 
Lewis, and W. by Wood and Tyler. Its mean length is 50 ms. ; mean 
breath 22 and area 1 100 sq. ms., extending in lat. from 39° 03', to 39° 35' 
N. and in long, from 2° 53' to 3° 55' W. of W. C. The Western branch 
of the Monongahela river, enters the southern border of Harrison, and wind- 
ing N. N. E. receives from both sides, numerous creeks, Avhich drain the 
central and most considerable part of this county. The western part how- 
ever declines westward, and is drained by the sources of Middle Island 
creek. The surface of the whole county is much broken, but generally fer- 
tile. Population in 1320, 10,932—1830, 14,792. It belongs to the 18th 
judicial circuit, and 9th district. Tax paid in 1833, $1,616 64 — in 1834, 
on lots, $133 21— on land, 1,056 27—339 slaves, $84 75—5,284 horses, 
$317 04— 28 studs, $106 00—11 carryalls, $11 00. Total, $1,708 27. 
Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $976 13 — in 1833, $970 98. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Bridgeport, P. O. 266 ms. from 
R. and 220 from W., situated 10 ms. 
E. of Clarksburg, on Simpson^ s creek, 
a branch of the west fork of the Mo- 
nongahela river. The location ot the 
north western turnpike road runs 
ihrough the town of Bridgeport. It 



contains 20 dwelling houses, 1 house 
of public worship free for all denomi- 
nations, 1 common school, 2 houses of 
entertainment, 1 grist and saw mill, 
and various mechanics. The situa- 
tion of this town is high and healthy, 
in a flourishing and densely settled 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— IIARR [SON. 



3&2 



part of the county, 1 1 ms. west ofj 
Prunty town. It contains 14 families 
and is improvincf. 

CLARKSBURG, P. V. and Scai 
of Justice, 200 ms. N. W. by W. of 
R. and 226 from W. This healthy 
and thrivino: village is situated above, 
and S. S. W. of Morgantown, on the 
rig-ht bank of the Monongahela river, 
hear the centre of north western Vir- 
ginia, at the junction of Elk creek, 
Avith the west fork of the Monongahela, 
about 100 ms. by the post road south 
of Pittsburg, 250 W. of Baltimore, 
and 70 E. of the Ohio river. It is a 
corporate town and well built; con- 
taining besides the usual county build- 
ing.s, 100 dwelling houses, 1 Metho- 
dist house of worship, 2 common 
schools, a temperance, bible and Sun- 
day school society, 9 mercantile 
stores, a grist and an oil mill, 1 print- 
ing office which issues a weekly pa- 
per, I tanyard, 3 saddlers, and all oth- 
er mechanics usual or necssary for an 
inland town. There is a chalybeate 
spring, whence issues a never failing 
stream of highly medicinal water. 
This village stands on a rolling table 
land, surrounded by an amphitheatrej 
of hills, ranging in distance from a 
mile, to a few hundred yards. E//,' 
Run meadering through and around 
the town, adds additional beauty to 
the scene. Clarksburg is furnished 
with inexhaustible supplies of coal in 
its immediate neighborhood ; and 
being situated in the midst of a large 
and flourishing county, possessed ol 
valuable arable lands and great mine- 
ral wealth in its iron, salt, «fec. and 
being near the centre of N. W. Vir- 
ginia, — it may hope in time to become 
a place of considerable importance. 
Its present population is 700 persons: 
of whom 20 are attorneys, and 4 reg- 
ular physicians. 

County Courts are held on the 3f/ 
Monday, in every month: — Quar- 
terly in March, June, August and 
November. 

Judge Duncan holds his Circuit 



Superior Court of Law and Chancery 
on the od of May, and October. 

TToFFsviLLK, P. O. 253 ms. from 
R. and 230 W. of VV. 

Lewisport, p. V. 290 ms. from R. 
and 250 from W,, situated 35 ms. W. 
of Clarksburg, and 25 both from 
Weston and Middlebourn, county seats 
of Lewis and Tyler, on the main stage 
road, at the point, at which it crosses 
Middle Island creek. This creek is 
a beautiful stream, which empties into 
the Ohio ; it is 75 yards wide, and 
navigable from its mouth to this place. 
Lewisport contains 8 dwelling houses, 
1 Baptist house of worship, 1 common 
school, 1 mercantile store, 2 taverns, 
1 manufacturing flour mill, and seve- 
ral mechanical establishment. Pop- 
ulation 50 persons; of whom 1 is a 
physician. This village is surroui>d- 
cd by endless quantities of valuable 
limber, — the neighborhood abound.s 
with stone coal and limestone; and 
mau)^ excellent sites for manufacto- 
ries. Wheat, rye, oats and timoth}^ 
are the principal products. The face 
of the coi^ntry is uneven, but the soU 
rich. ' 

Mii.FORr>. 265 m.'?. from R. and 233 
from W. This village is pleasantly 
situated on the north bank of the 'wefet 
fork of the Monongahela river, 8 ms. 
S. S. W. of Clarksburg. It contains 
15 dwelling houses, 1 house of public 
worship, (Methodist) 1 house of pub- 
lic entertainment, 1 miscellaneous 
store, 1 tanyard, I hoot and shoe ma- 
ker, 1 gun smith, 1 house carpenter, 
1 cooper, 1 grist and 1 saw mill. The 
land in the immediate vicinity of this 
village is level, but that of the suv 
rounding country is somewhat moun- 
tainous; but not so precipitous as to 
preclude its cultivation, to the very 
summit. The soil is generally good, 
the bottoms being a heavy soil, suited 
for meadow lands. The hills are 
generally a loose black soil, and vePy 
fertile. The products are Avheat, In- 
dian corn, rye, oats, flax, hemp and 
I various kinds of pulse and vegetabl'^s. 



364 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— HARRISON 



The lands are peculiarly adapted lo'. the Ohio river. The West Fork river 
raising cattle, which is one of the at this place, is 350 ft. wide, passes m 
principal staples of this county. Pop- a gentle current, and is navigable at 
ulation 61,— the odd one beinga slave, high water. It empties into the Ty- 
The neighborhood is thickly settled,! gart's Valley river, 14 ms. below this 
and bids fair to be a thriving coun-jvillage — the two forming the Monon- 
try, should a market ever .open to thislgahela of Virginia and Pennsylvania, 
place. The post office has lately been; Steam-boats might come to this place, 
moved from Milford to Lost creek, on! if there were no obstructing mill dams, 
the opposite side of the river. j The surrounding country is hilly and 

New Salem, P. O. 240 ms. W- ofi extremely broken, but exceedingly 
W. C. and 274 from R.- I well timbered with oak, shell bark. 



Prunty Town, P. V. 27G ms. 
from R. and 209 N, W- by w. of W- 
situated near the ferry acrossTygart's 



hickory, poplars (120 ft. high,) black 
locust, honey locust, sugar maple, 
black walnut, butter nut, beach, cot- 



Vallei/ river, 18 ms. N. £. by E. of; ton Avood, cypress, sycamore, birch, 
Clarksburg. It contains 18 dwelling! lynn; and affords an abundance of 
houses, 1 Methodist and I Baptist' gensang, snake root, &c. The coun- 
house of worship, 1 common school,! try around is thickly settled, and the 
3 miscellaneous stores, 1 tavern, l! pursuits of the inhabitants are agri- 
tanyard, 2 saddlers, 2 boot and shocj culture, grazmg, and raising cattle, 
factories, 1 hatter, I tailor, 2 smith and furnishing of lumber for the va- 
shops, 1 gun smith, and 1 cabinet ma-l rious markets. The neighborhood of 
ker. Population 110. The surround; Shinnton in geological language 
ing country is somewhat broken, but would be called a secondary formation, 
the soil is good, and well adapted tO' based on calcarious and clay shist 
the grazing of cattle; and growing rocks, abounding in iron ore, and bi- 
every species of small grain. tuminous coal; the latter unusually 

Shinnston, P. V. 270 ms. from R. abundant, — several strata being dis- 
and 236 w. of w. C. This village! posed one above the other, in the same 
was laid off in the year 1817 by the! hill. The strata are usually 10 feet 
Rev. Asa Shinn and brothers, and in- deep, of excellent coal. The substra- 
corporated by act of Assembythesamej tum of earth is also, generally about 
year. It is situated on the right bankj 10 ft. deep, composed of a yellow al- 
ofthe West Fork river, on a beautiful; luminous clay, very suitable for potte- 
plain, containing about 30 acres of ry and brick. The super stratum is 
land, 15 ft. above high water mark,! a rich vegetable mould, about one 
8 ms. N. E. of Clarksburg, and 30 foot deep, which if well cultivated^ 
S. W. of Morgantown. j produces excellent hemp, flax, maize. 

The improvements are 18 dwelling; wheat, sweet and Irish potatoes. Or^ 
houses, 1 house of public Avorship,:chards are nurtured with care, and 
free for all denominations, 1 common apples celebrated for size and flavor; 
school, 2 miscellaneous stores, 1 wag- peaches, plums, pears, pawpaws and 
gon maker, 1 smith shop, 1 gun persimmons, and blackberries, grow 
smith, 1 watch maker and silver in such abundance that many ships 
smith, 3 cabinet makers, 1 saddler, 3 might be loaded with them. The for- 
boot and shoe factorie.s, 1 cooper, 1 ests abound with nuts and fruits 
tailor, 1 grist and 5 saw mills, seve-| which rear and fatten largo quantities 
ral house carpenters, and 10 lumber; of hogs, and reduce the price of pork 
merchants, by whom large quantities: to 2 cents per pound, — other products 
of lumber are shipped annually from' are equally cheap. Tlie climate is 
this place to the different markets on|mild, and the country generally well 



WESTERN VIRGilNIA— JACKSON. 36^ 



refreshed with rain during- the sum- 
mer months. In point of health this 
place has few superiors. Unimproved 
land is worth one dollar per acre, — 
improved from three to five dollars, 



and quarter acre lots in Skinnsion 
sell at fifteen dollars. The villac^e 
contains 17 families — aggregate pop- 
ulation 100 persons; of whom 1 is a 
physician. 



JACKSON. 

Jackson was created by the Legislature in March, 1 831, and formed 
from portions of Mason, Kanawha and Wood. It is hounded N. E. by 
Wood, E. by Lewis, S. by Kanawha, S. W. by Mason, and N. W. by the 
Ohio river. ' Its form is irregular. It lies betvVeen 38° 32' and 39° 12' N. 
lat. Its length is 33 ms. ; mean breath 24 ; and area 850 sq. ms. The Ohio 
Welshes its north western border for a space of 34 ms. Several large and 
valuable creeks intersect it. Great Mill creek rises in the southern part of 
the county, and after pursuing a south easterly course 15 ms. turns to the 
N., thence to the N. W. and empties into the Ohio, 4 ms. above the corner 
of the county. Its length is 65 ms., half of which is navigable for boats. 
Two miles below Ripley on this stream, are situated I manufacturing flour 
mill, 1 saw mill, 1 avooI carding and turning machine, a distillery and cab- 
inet maker's shop: a few miles below this, there is another mill. Sandy 
creek, 8 ms. N. of Great Mill creek, is the next stream in importance; it 
enters the Ohio in 39° 07' N. lat. This little creek is inhabited by an in- 
dustrious and enterprising class of people, who have in the last three years 
transported nearly S 10,000 worth of lumber to market. Pond creek in the 
northern part of the county is a good sized mill stream, but too small for 
navigation; the greater part of this stream is in Mason county. It empties 
into the Ohio in lat. 39° 15' N. Reedy and Spring creeks rise in this 
county, — the first pursuing a N. E., the latter a N. course. They pass into 
Wood county, and after a short course, empty into the Little Kanawlia." 
The West i-wr/; of Little Kanawha flows through this county, for a distance- 
of 10 ms. and affords some excellent sites for water works. Pocotalico 
rises in this county, and flowing in a south westerly course, it enters Ka- 
nawha county, and forms a junction with Little Kanawha river. This 
county is not mountainous, but may be said to be a mass of hills, the high- 
est of which, are in the eastern side of the county. The soil is, as in many 
parts of western Virginia, well adapted to grazing. The bottom lands 
along Mill creek and its branches, are of the first quality, — other creeks 
also present fine bottoms, and there is much arable land besides that on the 
watercourses. The productions of the county, are Indian corn, Avheat, rye, 
oaLs, flax, hemp, tobacco, potatoes and other productions usual in the same ' 
latitude. The principal exports from the interior part of the county, ar^" 
cattle and pork; — along the Ohio the people export large quantities of 
staves, hoop-poles, boats and lumber of every description. The agriculture 
of the county may be said to be yet in its infancy, however, large quantities 
of corn, &c. are carried down the Ohio annually, to different^markets. Or- 
chards are not numerous, but where they have been planted early and nur-' 
tured with care, produce in abundance. This county abounds with the 
finest of thrifty white oak, both on tlu bottoms and ridges, — also black oak, 
hickory, doo-wood, sugar maple, poplar, ash, elm, lynn and sycamore, and 



366 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— JACKSON. 



on many of the ridges groves of yellow pine. The lands along the Ohio 
river and other streams in this county, are alluvial, being composed of the 
washings of the higher lands and hills, in which it is no uncommon thing 
to find large logs, &c. buried a considerable depth below the surface; and 
the higher level lands along the Ohio river, are generally composed of sand 
and round gravel, similar to that found in the bed of the river, and com- 
monly lays in waves parallel to the river, which proves that it was once 60 
or 70' feet higher than at the present time. There are in some of the north- 
ern ranges of hills in this county an abundance of excellent limestone; in 
some other parts there have been found small veins of mineral coal, and in 
the vicinity of the C. H. are appearances of salt water. There are in this 
county 3 mercantile stores, 8 saw mills, 5 grist mills, 1 distillery and 1 
carding machine, and 5 tanneries. Population 3,300. It belongs to the 
19th judicial circuit and 10th district. Tax paid in 1833, $259 80— in 
1834, on lots, S4 36— on land, $134 79—31 slaves, $7 75—972 horses. 
^58 32 — 5 studs, $22 00. Total 227 22. No school commissioners re- 
port for 1832. Expended in 1833, $113 28. 

TOWNS, VILLAC4ES, POST OFFICES, &lc. 



RIPLEY, P. V. and Seat of Jus-] 
tice, 350 ms. N. of R. and 34rW. of| 
W., situated in lat. 38° 52' N., 8 ms. 
above Wright's mill, and 12 from the 
Ohio river, on the Great Mill creek, 
at its confluence with Sycamore creek. 
It is a flourishing village, although 
but recently established. From its 
location in the valley of Mill creek, 
and its being in a direct line between 
Charleston, Kanawha, (distant 42 
ms.) and Parkersburg, in Wood Co., 
it is anticipated that it will one day 
be a place of some trade. At present 
it contains besides the ordinary coun- 
ty buildings, which are substantially 
built of brick, 12 dwelling houses, 2 
hotels, 1 common school, 1 mercan- 
tile store, 1 mill wright, 1 house join- 
er, 2 smith shops, 1 tanyard. 1 boot 
and shoe factory, 2 tailois, 1 brick 
layer and 1 saw mill. Populution 
about 120 persons; of whom 2 are at- 
torneys, and 2 regular physicians. 
There are within one mile of the C. 
H. 32 dwelling houses, and 160 in- 
habitants. 

Coayity Courts are held on the iih 
Monday in every month; — Quarter- 
ly in March, June, August and No- 
vember. 

Circuit Superior Courts of Law 



and Chancery are held on the lOfh 
of April and September, by Judge 
Summers, 

Reeds', P. O. 360 ms. N. W. of 
R. and 334 W. of W. C, situated 10 
ms. N. of Rip]ey^ 

Wright's Mills, P. O. 315 ms. 
N. W. by W. of R. and 315 S. W. 
by W. of W., situated at the falls of 
Great Mill creek. This place de- 
serves notice from the singular freak 
which nature has here played. The 
creek which is generally 80 yards 
wide, is here contracted to the space 
of forty-five feet, allowing between 
two ledges of rock which constitute 
the banks, to the height of 16 ft. over 
a bottom of solid rock. Immediately 
below this narrow passage, the creek 
widens to its usual size, and the falls 
commence. The descent is 7 feet in 
120 yards. At the lower end of the 
falls, the creek is 100 yards wide, and 
affords one of the best harbors ever 
known in a stream of this size, being 
about 100 yards in diameter, of a cir- 
cular form, and on the N. side, pro- 
tected from ice, &c. by a high point 
of rocks, projecting a considerable dis- 
tance into the creek. From this to 
the Ohio river, the navigation is good 
during the spring freshets,- — a dis- 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— JEFFERSON. 367 

tance of 4 miles- At this place arcl 11 dwelling houses, 3 school houses, 
situated, 1 extensive manufacturing 1 mercantile store, and 1 smith shop, 
flour mill, 2 sawmills, 1 grist mill,} Population 55. 



JEFFERSON. 

Jefferson was created by the Legislature in 1801, and formed from a 
portion of Berkley count}'. It is bounded N. by the Potomac river, which 
separates it from Washington county, of Maryland, — E. by the Blue Ridge 
separating it from Loudoun, — S. by Frederick, — and W. by Berkley. Its 
mean length is 22 ms. ; breadth 10; and area 220 sq ms., extending in lat. 
from 39° 10', to 39° 20' N., and in long from 0° 43', to 1° 02' W. of W. 
C The Shenandoah river enters this county near its south eastern border, 
and flowing in a N. E. direction, parallel Avith the Blue Ridge, it enters 
the Potomac at Haper's Ferry. The face of this county is rolling but very 
fertile. Most of the inhabitants are good farmers; and the county is proba- 
bly as wealthy in proportion to its size as any in the state. The lands have 
beeu enhanced in value from 07ic hundred to one. hundred and fifty percent 
by the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal, and the Baltimore and Ohio Rail Road, 
both of which, reach the county at Harper's Ferry; and taken in connecr 
tioii with the Winchester and Harper's Ferry Rail Road, which passes di- 
agonally through the county, the Shenandoah flowing through the eastern 
portion, and the Potomac along the northern border, afford the citizens as 
many facilities for transportation as the tide water counties possess. The 
decline of the county is N. N. E. The water elevation at Harper's Ferry 
being 182 ft. above tide water, that of the arable soil cannot fall short of 400 
ft. This county has been for the most part settled by old Virginia families 
from the eastern part of the state, and the inhabitants still retain that high 
chivalrous spirit, and. generous hospitalil}-, for which that race was so re- 
markable in the palmy days of their prosperity. Population in 1810, 
11,851,— in 1820, 13,087— in 1830, 12,927. This county belongs to tha 
13th judicial circuit and 7th district. Tax paid in 1833, $4,963 97 — in 
1834, on lots, $677 93— land, $2,690 82—2,354 slaves, $588 50—4,308 
horses, $258 48—17 studs, $232 00—143 coaches, $326 80—2 stages, 
$4 00—31 carryalls, $31 00—51 gigs, $38 50. Total, $4,848 08. 
Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $705 26 — in 1833, 
$670 05. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, *Scc. 



CHARLESTOWN,P. V. and Seat 
of Justice, 182 ms. from R. and 60 N. 
W. of W., situated 10 ms. S. W. by 
W. of Harper's Ferry, with which it 



and several other schools, 9 mercan- 
tile stores, 2 apothecary shops, 1 
printing office, from which a weekly 
paper is issued, 3 tanneries, 3 sad- 



is connected by an excellent turnpike. Idlers, 1 turner, and various other me- 
Besides the usual county buildings, it: chanics, and I manufacturing flour 
contains 200 dwelling houses, — a [mill. Its situation is eligible and 
Methodist, Episcopalian, and a Pres-j healthy, and surrounded by a fertile 
byterian house of worship, a branch! and wealthy country. The Shenan- 
of the Bank of the Valley, 1 academy 'doah Springs, formerly a place of con- 



3$S 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— JEFFERSON. 



siderable resort, are in the neighbor-jin the United States. The principal 
hood of this place. The ^'i/ir/^es/erj curiosities of the place, are Jefferson's 
and Potomac Rail Road, now 'm\)Xo-\Yioc'k and the Maryland Pinnacle, 
gress, will pass through Charlestown.jfroni the highest point of which, with 
Population 1,200 persons: of whom 7jthe aid of a good glass, may be seen 
are attorneys, and G regular physi- towns at the distance of 30 ms. 
cians. I Those great national works, the 

County Courts are held on the 2>rd Chesapeake and Ohio _Cana2, and the 
Monday in every month; — Quarter- 
ly in March, May, August and No- 
vember. 

Judge Parker holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the loth of March and 10//^ of 
October. 

Harper's Ferrv, P. V. 174 ms. 
from R. and 52 S. W. by W. of W. 
This place has risen at the justly cel- 
ebrated pass of the Potomac through 
the Blue Ridge, and is situated im- 
mediately at the junction of the Poto- 
mac and Shenandoah rivers, on the 
right bank of Potomac, above the 
mouth of Shenandoah. The level of 
low water at the junction of the two 
rivers, is 182 ft. above tide water at 
Georgetown. It is distant 22 ms 
S. W. by W. of Frederick, Maryland, 
and 25 almost due south of Hagers 
town. It contains about 500 houses, 



Baltimore and Ohio Rail Road are 
now completed to this place, which 
circumstance has already had a very 
sensible effect on it, for the better. 
There are 3 arrivals and departures 
of the mail to and from the east, and 
3 from the west in each week. There 
is also a mail from Hagerstown, by 
Harper's Ferry and Leesburg to 
Washington City, twice a Aveek. — ■ 
Formerly Harper's Ferry Avas con- 
sidered unhealthy, but for the last 5 
years it has been quite the reverse. 

We borrow a more extensive ac- 
count of the scenery of Harper's Fer- 
ry, and the United States Armory 
and Arsenal, there located, from a pe- 
riodical published a k\v years since. 

"The Shenandoah, after running 
along the foot of the Blue Ridge in a 
direction nearly north-cast, turns sud- 
denly to the east, and mingles its wa- 
ters with those of the Potomac, at the 



2 hotels kept in the best style, 3 

houses of public worship, 1 Metlaodist,! point where the latter, after flowing 
1 free for all denominations, and 1 through a deep and well wooded dell, 
Catholic. The last is one of the, from north-west to south-east, is en- 
handsomest and neatest buildings in tering that singular gap in the Ridge, 



the state, — in this church, there is a 
line toned organ, and it is ornamented 



through Avhich the waters escape. 
The valleys of both rivers are roman- 



by a beautiful steeple, which ascends! tic, and that of the Potomac unites srn- 
to the height of about 150 ft. abovejgularity with beauty. 
the level of the river. There are 2| We arc accustomed to find valleys 
academies, (I male, and 1 female,) andj running parallel to mountain chains 
2 common schools, 9 mercantile stores] and separating ridge from ridge ; the 
and 2 apothecary shops, a lodge of| whole of the great valley, which lies 
masons, and 1 ot odd fellows, \ print- 1 between the North Mountain and the 
ing office, from which a weekly pa-i Blue Ridge, and which is called in 



per is issued, 4 tailors, 3 boot anu 
shoe factories, 1 saddler, 1 silversmith, 
1 coppersmith and tin plate worker, 
3 house carpenters, 2 smith shops. 
and 1 wagon maker. There are 2 
extensive manufacturing flour mills 



this part of the country "the valley" 
par L.tcdlence, presents an alternation 
of such parallel, low lands and inter- 
vening heights; the Shenandoah oc- 
cupying one of the former. But the 
valley of the Potomac is not of this 



and 1 of the most valuable caw mills class, it intersects at right angles the 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— JEFFERSON. 



m 



great mountain ranges and the sys-f every part of the channel, whose sides 
teni of smaUer elevations which are.arL' worn by thousands .of petty rapids, 
subordinate to them ; and the river is which fret and struggle among the 
thus distinguished from the more nu- larc'e blocks of granite. 



merous class of streams, which oc- 
cupy the bottoms of ordinary valleys. 
The Potomac is not, however, a soli- 
tary example of this kind, on the con- 
trary, most of our great Atlantic riv- 
ers pencLrale the mountains by exten- 
sive lateral valleys, or are said, with 
some degree of impropriety, to break 
through the mounlaini; at right angles 
to their direction. These profound 
passes are not uncommon in other 
parts of the world, and present seve- 
ral varieties. A deep ravine, in which 
the rocks, presenting unequal resis- 
tance, have separated unequally, and 
where the stream, which rushes 
through this accidental outlet, leaps 
from rock to rock, and is alternately 
seen foaming in the cataract or lost 
inthc nirroiv and gloomy gulf be- 
low: in short where the waters are 
not to be regarded as flowing over a 
bed, but rather as penetrating through 
crevices, which earthquakes have bro- 
ken in the immense wall that confined 
them. Such is the appearance, which 
theory would ac^sign to these trans- 
verse valleys and their streams ; but 
such is not the valley of the Potomac. 
As seen from Harper's Ferry it pre- 
sents a bed of nearly uniform declivi- 
ty and width, corresponding in these 
respects with that of the Shenandoah, 
a valley, as I have before observed, of 
a. different class. The channels of 
both rivers arc of rock, much broken, 
hut presenting on the whole a regular 
declivity, and passing in highly in- 
clined strata across the river. The 
prevailing rocks of the whole neigh- 
borhood being a coarse granite con- 
taining unusually large grains of 
(juartz, and a species of slate stone. 
The breadth of the Potomac is from 
fwo h-undred and fifty to three hun- 
dred yards;' thdt of the ■?!u->an.l^'th 



The town extends itself in contempt 
of all order, along both sides of the 
hill which divides the two riverS, and 
runs up to the jaws of the picturesque, 
but in no way tremendous, pass of the 
Potomac. At the point of this tongue 
of land is the armory ; on the loft, and 
nearly even with the water, the work- 
ing part of the arsenal: on the right 
and over hanging the western bank 
ofthe Shenandoah, is Jefferson's Rock. 
On the opposite banks of the tu'o 
rivers the clifls are more bold and 
striking. That, on the Maryland 
side, is suppo.sed to resemble the pro- 
file of Washington, an illusion very 
pleasing to those whose minds are not 
adapted to relish the beauties of na- 
ture. The two cliffs, of Avhich we 
have spoken, form a noble entrance 
to the romantic valley which lies be- 
yond, embosomed among woods and 
mountains and winding among the 
projections of the latter until its exit 
is again guarded by immense rocks, 
where a passage, corresponding to 
that at Harper's Ferry, is broken 
through the Short Hills — a chain pa- 
rallel to the Blue Ridge, and con- 
nected with it by spurs which inclose 
on every side this dell that contains 
so many elements of the picturesque. 
The mountains, ofconsiderable height, 
are clothed to their summit by forests 
of oak and pme, from out the thick 
shade of which, project immense 
masses of granite, that yet stand the 
stern witnesses of some tremendous 
convulsion, the traces of wliich hot 
even time, that has for thousands of 
years been scattering their ih'hrh 
daily below, has been abl-e to oblite- 
rate' The base of these mountains 
presents elevated and very rugged 
cliffs, which, projecting into the val- 
1,M'. b'-'^ak its uv'i<brm'^v, and I'ive a 



one hundred and fifty. Both river.<| wilder aspect to the river, that spreads 
are shallow, so shallow that the wa-' itself between them. 

A trreater abundance of water 



tei 



eaves innumerable ft«rks bare in 

■17 - - •• 



370 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— JEFFERSON, 



would convert this valley into a sin- 
gularly wild and beautiful lake, a 
mirror worthy of the noble objects it 
would reflect.^ But the character of 
the Potomac is the same here as be- 
fore its waters are united with those 
of the Shenandoah. A channel, too 
extended for the stream, presents eve- 
ry where its rugged bed, interspersed 
with thousands of rills and small pools 
of water. Yet has this deficient 
stream, a sublimity of its own; the 
rugged bed is in unison with the 
rocks which overhang it, and with 
the dark and often blasted pines, which 
clothe them ; and if, in awful gran- 
deur, it cannot be compared with the 
passage of the Rhone through the 
Alps, or in beauty, with some of the 
smaller lakes, so abundant in the 
northern states of our own country, it 
is yet a most highly impressive scene. 
Commanding interest from the praise 
of one whose praise was celebrity. 
Harper's Ferry seems often to have 
disappointed foreigners who expected 
to find a scene as unique as the Nat- 
ural Bridge, and as sublime as the 
falls of Niagara. 

Those who form such extravagant 
expectations will not have them real- 
ised, but the rational admirers of na- 
ture will find abundance to admire in 
the beauty, the grandeur, and the sim- 
plicity of the spot. 

This subject gives us occasion to 
regret, that the many commanding po- 
sitions, which our mountains present, 
should be so little known. The wes- 
tern part of Virginia abounds in ro- 
mantic scenery, but the traveller may 
toil for hours in its immediate vicinity, 
plunged in a depth of shade, that ex- 
cludes all idea of the beauty by which 
he is surrounded: to ascend the moun- 
tains is difficult, and adds but little to 
his chance of gratification ; the foli- 
age is nearly as thick there as at their 
base; but the necessary local know- 
ledge would be at the command of all, 
if those, who annually makesummerj 
excursions through our country, were 



as ardent admirers of nature as they 
commonly are of Warm Springs ox 
other spots, which draw together a 
number of half sick, half idle people, 
who lounge away the best part of the 
year. As an instance, how many 
Dr. Syntaxes in search of the pictu- 
resque, of the company at the springs, 
or the wonders of Weyer's Cave, 
plunge in the interminable shades of 
Brown's Gap, which brings so forci- 
bly to mind the falsehood of Thom- 
son's lines. 

I care not fortune what you me deny, 
You cannot bar me from fair nature's 
grace, 
You cannot shnt the windows of the sly 
Through which Aurora shews her smil- 
ing face. 

How many unhappy wights per- 
form this darksome pilgrimage, when 
t^hey might, a k\v miles off, from 
Turk's Gap, have seen the sun rise 
over a landscape, which exhibits the 
country, towards tide water, spreading 
out in an extent of forest as boundless 
and level as the ocean, to the north 
and south the long chain of the Blue 
Ridge, to the west the well cultivated 
valley watered by the Shenandoah, 
adorned by detached and picturesque 
mountains, and bounded by the hazy 
and unbroken line of the North 
Mountain. 

To return to Harper's Ferry. The 
exit of the river at the Short Hills on 
the Maryland side is called the Poi?it 
of Rocks; it is here that two rival com- 
panies contended for the exclusive 
right to possess a narrow gorge, 
which now gives passage at once to a 
river, a canal, and a Rail Road. A 
handsome wooden bridgCf seven hun- 
dred and fifty feet from one abutment 
to the other, and with a space between 
the piers of more than one hundred 
and eighty ft., connects the town with 
the Maryland shore; whilst the funds 
for a similar structure over the Shen- 
andoah havealready been subscribed.* 



*This work we bcHcve has since been 
completed. 



WESTERN VlR<;i NLA- JEFFERSON. 



37! 



The ("onner bridgi? is simple and dis- 
plays the skill of the engineer; it is 
sustained by arches formed of three 
tiers of planks placed edgeways, and 
whose joints give shift to each other; 
king posts, fanning from the centre, 
unite these planks and sustain a roof, 
which, by its diagonal framing, serves 
to give stability in a lateral direction. 
The bridge is double. Did not the 
name of the engineer, by whom this 
structure was erected, give sufficient 
guarantee for its excellence, the ob- 
server might fear that economy had 
been too mush consulted in the mate- 
rials. 

The nationil arsc7ial at Harper's 
Ferry is an object worthy of attention. 
Eio'hty or ninety thousand stand of 
arms are usually kept there, and as 
these are sent off to other depositaries 
their place is supplied from the exten- 
sive manufactory adjacent. It is in- 
teresting to observe the facility with 
which a weapon, so complicated as 
the musket, is produced. A bar ofj 
iron is forged into a rough tube, the 
interior of which is formed into a 
smooth surface by drills turned by the 
power of water. At first, the barrel, 
strongly flistened, is moved slowly 
forward, whilst the drill, a cylindri- 
cal rod of iron, terminating in a rec- 
tangular bar, ten or twelve inches 
long, revoh-es with rapidity, but with- 
out progressive motion; the barrel is 
surrounded by water, which, though 
constantly renewed, becomes warm to 
the touch. The barrel is not made 
cylindrical by a single drill, a succes- 
sion is employed, until, in the appli- 
cation of the finer drills, the barrel, 
only fastened in the middle, is left 
free to adapt itself to the motion of the 
drill. 

The outside of the barrel is polish- 
ed by enormous grindstones, turning 
with groat rapidity. These stones 
are guarded by thick cheeks of wood, 
to which is fi.xed a covering, that les- 
sens the dansfer, should the centrifu- 
gal force, arising from so rapid a mo- 



tion, burst the stone asunder. and pro- 
ject the pieces forward. The barrel 
passing through these checks, bears 
against the stone, and is drawn across 
it with a motion resembling that of a 
screw. 

The stocks are shaped by a ma- 
chine, the idea of which seems to 
have been borrowed from an admira- 
ble contrivance in the celebrated 
Block Machinery of Brunei. The 
writer was struck immediately with 
the resemblance, and, on inquiry, 
found that the inventor, Blanchard, 
had previously introduced the use of 
Brunei's machinery in this country. 

The reader will readily form a 
general idea of this machine. Let 
him imagine two wheels, eight or ten 
inches in diameter, placed one behind 
the other, and in the same plane ; one 
of these has a smooth, round edge, 
the other is furnished with steel cut- 
ters, which are parallel to the circum- 
ference. Further let him suppose 
two turning lathes, placed side by 
side, in the one an iron stock as a 
guide or pattern, in the other the 
wooden stock to be turned. Now let 
him suppose, that, whilst these two 
stocks are in a rapid rotatory motion, 
the plain wheel of which we have 
spoken is made to traverse the whole 
length of the iron, and is pressed 
against it by a strong spring; this 
wheel, it will be remembered, is con- 
nected invariably with that which is 
furnished with cutters: if then the lat- 
ter be brought into contact with the 
wooden stock at the moment when 
the first wheel commences its motion 
along the pattern, it will perform a 
similar journey along the wooden 
stock, and only requires, that it should 
be kept in a rapid rotatory motion, in 
order that it may shape, by its cutters, 
this stock to the form of the iron pat- 
tern against which the guiding wheel 
is pressed. Some contrivance is re- 
quisite to provide the rotatory motion, 
spoken of, in the second wheel; as 
this wheel moves longitudinally the 



372 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— JEFFERSON. 



strap by which it turns, must have a 
like motion; to elFect tliis it is passed, 
below, round a large cylinder, in lieu 
of an ordinary drum wheel, and, be- 
ing confined above by the sides of the 
drum over which it passes, shifts it- 
self without difficulty along the cylin- 
der and reriuiins always vertical. 
This machine will shape a musket 
stock in about eight seconds. 

The limits of this article will not 
permit us to describe the operations 
by which the minute parts of the mus- 
kets are completed. The whole gives 
employment when in full v/ork to 
about two hundred and fiftj^ men, and 
at such times fourteen hundred mus- 
kets have been finished in a month. 
The average cost is about eleven dol- 
lars for each musket, and a good 
workman will earn tv.'o dollars a day. 
About a dozen of the workmen are 
from England, chiefly from th« Ar- 
mory Mills which w^ere worked du- 
ring the war near Deptford in. Kent. 
The muskets are lighter, and in this 
respect preferable to the English; the 
v-j-orkmen did not hold the iron, which 
is chiefly from Massachusetts, in the 
same esteem. The establishment is 
governed by a superintendant who 
receives fourteen hundred dollars a 
year, and conducted by a master ar- 
morer at sixty dollars per month, and 
four assistants at forty dollars. 

We must not quit this part of the 
subject without mentioning Hall's 
rifle, which is loaded at the breech, 
and of which there is a separate man- 
ufactory here. The barrel is formed 
of two portions by being cut asunder 
a few inches from the breech. And, 
on touching a trigger, placed before 
the ordinary one, the lower portion is 
raised out of the stock by a spring, 
and may be loaded as a pistol. When 
pressed down again the parts perfectly 
coincide, and the movable part of the 
barrel is retained in its place by a 
catch. 

Much time is undoubtedly saved in 
loading a rifle by this contrivance. 



and it may obviously be done Avith 
less chance of exposing the rifleman 
to a hostile aim. But no inventions 
are more uncertain as to ultimate ef- 
fect than those in the art of war. The 
confusion and violence of warfare for- 
bid the employment of any but the 
simplest v^•eapo^s; and it may be 
doubted whether these divided por- 
tions — subject to violence, to rust, to 
the intrusion of foreign substances 
between the stock and the lower por- 
tion — when elevated, will, after much 
use, coincide with sufficient accuracy 
to allow the passage of the ball, even 
though no great accuracy is required 
for that purpose. An inconvenience 
does, however, attend the loading of 
rifles, a weapon of great importance 
in American warfare, and the expedi- 
ent we have described seems the most 
simple and therefore the best which 
could be devised to remove it." 

Lee Town, P. O. 165 ms. from 
R. and 71 N. W. by W. of W., situ- 
ated in the western end of the county, 
30 ms. W. of Harper's Ferry. It 
contains several dwelling houses, 1 
mercantile store, 1 manufacturing- 
flour mill, and 1 tavern. Lee Town 
derived its name from the celebrated 
General Lee who resided here. 
Population 54 whites, and 20 colour- 
ed. Total 74. 

Middleway or Ssiithfield, P. 
V. 161 ms. from R. and 86 N. W. by 
W. of W., situated in the Avestern 
part of the Co., 7 ms. S. W. of Charles- 
town, and near Opequhan creek. 
It contains 63 dwelling houses, a Me- 
thodist and a Presbyterian house of 
worship, 2 common schools, 2 taverns, 
3 mercantile stores, 2 saddlers, 2 
smith shops, 2 boot and shoe facto- 
ries, 2 tailors, 2 rnilliners, 1 watch 
and clock maker, 2 cabinet makers, 2 
tanyards, and 1 saw mill. There are 
2 turnpikes lead from this village, — 
1 to Harper's Ferry, and the other to 
Shepherdstown. Population 500, in- 



uding 2 attorneys and 
physicians. 



rular 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— KANAWHA. 



373 



SlIEPHKUDSTOWN, P. O. 184 HIS. 

from R. ami 6:Z N. W. of W., situated 
immediately on the west side of the 
Potomac river, in the north western 
part of the county. It is a flourisli- 
ing- viUage, containing 150 dwelling 
houses, G mercantilt> stores, and all 
the necessary mechanics for an inland 
town. There are 4 merchant mills, 
one of which has an overshot wheel 



of about 24 feet diameter, and the oth- 
ers of about 20. There is a small 
stream of considerable fall which 
uns through the town, immediately 
opposite to which is an inlet lock, to 
the ("Chesapeake and Ohio Canal. 
Shepherdstown has 3 hou.'^es of public 
worship, and a population of about 
1000. 



KANAWHA. 

Kaxaavha was created by the Legislature in 1789, from a portion of 
Greenbrier and Montgomery. It is bounded N. by Wood, — N. E. by 
Lewis, — E. by Nicholas, — S. E. by Fayette, — S. and S. W. by Logan, — 
W. by Cabell, — and N. W. by Mason and Jackson Its mean length is 58 
miles — mean breadth 36; and area 2,090 sqcare miles; extending in lat. 
from 37° 53' to 38° 53' N. and in long, from 3° 55' to 4° 25' W. of W. 
C. Gauly river unites with New river, to form the Great Kanawha, up- 
on the eastern border of the county. The Kanawha then flows through tlae 
county in a N. W. direction into Mason; receiving in its passage Elk ri- 
ver from the N. E., — Coal river from the S. E., and Pocatalico from the 
North. — We cannot refrain from giving here a letter from an eminent lite- 
rary gentleman of this State to his friend in the lower country, which gives 
agraphic description of the magnificent Valley or the Kanawha. 

"■You have often visited the mountain region of Virginia, and tasted of 
her various and unrivalled mineral waters. You have mingled with the 
fashionable throng at the White Sulphur, — regaled your palate upon the. 
fine venison and other dainties of the forest, and bathed in the delicious foun- 
tain of the Warm Springs. You have never, I believe, however, extended 
your journey as far West as the Valley of Kanaichoy. The great state 
road which commences at Covington, and secures you a safe passage to 
Lewisburg, passing the gigantic Alleghanies at a grade which is almost 
level, — pursues its winding yet steady course over ranges of lofty moun- 
tains, and through wild and hitherto unbroken depths of wilderness and 
shade. Now and then it courses along the margin of some rocky and 
stupendous precipice, often several hundred if not a thousand feet in depth, 
— and as the mail coach drawn by four spirited steeds, whirls you along 
the perilous cliff, — you feel an involuntary shuddering at the slender bar- 
rier which separates you from eternity. The blue mist wliich hovers along 
the yawning chasm beneath, and is visible through the variegated foilage 
which obscures without concealing the view, — impresses the mind with unde- 
linable iiiiagvs of da'ig-.r; an:l i;;d'^e.; it would bo well if the terrors which are 
sometimes inspired were those of imagination only, — for 1 havelicen credi- 
bly informed that in more than one instance, the lives of travellers have 
been exposed to imminent peril. At one of those narrow defiles, the spot 
was pointed out where the stage with eight passengers and driver rolled 
down a steep declivity of fifty feet. Fortunately the nature of the ground 
arrested its downward course, and still more fortunately, I had almost said 



^71 WESTERN VIRGINIA— KANAWHA. 

miraculously, although the luckless vehicle turned two or three somersets 
and was actually shattered into fragments, neither horse or passenger suf- 
fered material injury. Notwithstanding these disasters which occasionally 
await the traveller, this important and convenient highway which unites 
the east and west, is a noble monument of skill, enterprise and labor. In 
its vast utility to the country which it intersects, it may justly be compared 
to the introduction of steam navigation on our western waters. Distance 
and time are in a great measure overcome, or perceptibly diminished, and 
a journey which was once performed with insupportable fatigue and de- 
lay, is now achieved in one fourth of the time, and with comparative ease. 
Before reaching the valley of the Kanawha, the traveller is feasted by the 
sublime and picturesque scenery from the clifis of New river, which is one 
of the principal tributaries to the Kanawha. One of these clifis has been 
long known by the name of the Haiok's Nest — but more recently called 
Marshairs PUlar, in honor of the Venerable Chief Justice who as one of 
the Stdte Commissioners in 1812, stood in person upon its fearful brink 
and sounded its exact depth to the river margin. Every one has heard of 
the far famed falls of Niagara — and yet 1 doubt if the beholder of that 
u^onderful cataract ever experienced more of the true sublime, than the 
grand and elevating prospect from Marshall's Pillar, is apt to inspire. 
Imagine yourself standing upon the projecting point of a perpendicular 
rock, 1200 feet from the valley below. Before you, as you look to the east, 
the New river is seen at the "distance perhaps of several miles, winding or 
rather rushing, tumbling and foaming through the towering clifl^s which 
environ it. Sweeping by the lofty promontory on which you stand, it sud- 
denly turns its course in a south west direction, and presents in the whole 
distance several beautiful cascades, which send to the listening ear the far 
off; but lulling sound of their waters. The cliffs themselves, judging by 
the horizontal and corresponding strata of rock on ehher side, seem to have 
been originally united, but torn asunder by some strong convulsion of na- 
ture, in order to give free passage to the narrow but angry torrent which 
rolls majestically at their feet. The autumnal season gives to this impos- 
ing picture a magnificent and gorgeous drapery of which no man whose 
vision has been confined to the lowland scenery has the slightest concep- 
tion. On one side a dark outline is defined by the shadow from the oppo- 
site cliffs, which leaving the base of the mountain of a sombre browai, pre- 
sents its summits shining with the rich and mellow tints of an October sun. 
In gazing from the dizzy heigth where the spectator is perched amidst 
sublime and solitary deserts, it requires but little effort of fancy to portray 
the haggard and inspired bard of Gray, standing 

" On a rock whose haughty brow 
Frowns o'er old Conway's foaming flood." 

No hostile Edward it is true, is marching through this wilderness with his 
embattled legions, to victory and slaughter; on the contrary, a profound 
stillness prevails, which adds interest and solemnity to the scene — a still- 
ness which is disturbed by nothing save the distant wave which seems, but 
seems only to murmur at the base of the cliff! So sublime indeed is its 
elevation, that whilst nothing seems easier than to cast a pebble from its 
beetling verge into the bed of the stream, the most powerful arm is foiled 
in the attempt. 

" After feasting on the sublimo repasts which nature spreads before the 



I 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— KANAWHA. 375 

eye of the tourist on these romantic cliffs, he is better prepared to enjoy by 
contrast his descent into the fertile and lovely vale of the Kanawha. That 
beautiful stream is formed by the junction of the Gauley and New rivers, 
at the base of the Gauley mountains. A short distance only below the 
point where the waters mingle, the ear of the traveller is saluted by the 
roar of the Great Falls — a fine cataract of twenty-two feet over a natural 
dam of rock which spreads irreg;ularly across the Kanawha. I should 
judge from the sketches of the Great Niagara, by artists and picturesque 
tourists, that this was its copy in miniature. Certain it is, that on approach- 
ing the cataract which you can easily do, over the vast masses of naked 
rock, which rise from the bed of the river — you feel the effect of the spec- 
tacle in all its sublimity. I will not say as Byron said of the cascade of 
Velino, that it is "horribly beautiful" — or that 

" An Iris sits, midst its infernal surge, 
Like hope upon a death bed." 

There is nothing which awakens infernal images in the cataract of Ka- 
nawha, but I saw distinctly the rainbow reposing its brilliant arch upon 
the white foam of the waters. Whatever disappointment, however, the 
limner might experience in his visit to this interesting spot, the epicure 
would meet with none at the spacious Hotel which stands opposite the 
falls. To all lovers of the finny tribe, it is a perfect paradise. Here are 
fish, which if not unknown, are yet untalked of on the borders of our 
Atlantic streams. The delicious black perch, the grennel, the bkie cat, the 
fine flavored bufialo, and a species of sturgeon, all abound in profusion, and 
all present their respective claims to preference. If to these luxuries of 
the water, be added wild fowl, and forest game, which are found in abun- 
dance, the most fastidious gourmand might desire no higher fruition than 
is afforded in this favored region. 

For many miles after leaving the falls, the Kanawha Valley is narrow 
— winding — and unprepossessing. Its gigantic and various growth is in- 
deed interesting to the lowland traveller — and the vast masses of rock 
which tower in magnificent pride to the very summit of the mountains — 
are objects of curiositj'' and attention. At the same period in autumn, na- 
ture was perceptibly not so far in the "sear and yellow leaf as in the 
more mountainous and elevated region. Her robe was fresher and greener, 
but yet there was not wanting that splendid variety and intermixture of 
colors which distinguish the western forests. The bright orange or golden 
yellow of the linn, the sugar tree and hickory were beautifully contrasted 
with the evergreen laurel, and with the dark and mournful hemlock. Now 
and then some parasitical creeper could be seen Avinding its brilliant red 
among the branches of a lofty tree of different foliage — and the gaj' and 
graceful sumach would hang out its crimson drapery to delight the beholder. 
Unlike the lowland shrub of the same name, the sumach of the west is 
admitted into the family of trees; and so I presume it is in England, for 
otherwise the lines of Aloore would not be intelligible. 

In the shade of yon sumach, whose red berry dips 
In the gush of the fountain, how sweet to recline. 

Lovers unless they belonged to the race of pigmies, could hardly recline 
in the shade of one of our dwarfish sumachs in Eastern Virginia. 

" It is nearly twenty miles below the falls, before the Kanawha Valley 



376 WESTERN VIRGINIA— KANAWHA. 

widens into something like a plain, and opens its beautiful vista to the ey<;. 
The mountains which inclose it on either side become gradually depressed 
into hills — and for the first time the dense dark volumes of smoke which 
ascend from the salt furnaces, announce the busy and bustling scene which 
enlivens the highway to the village of Charleston. What a scene of ani- 
mation indeed, contrasted with the deep solitudes from which the traveller 
has but just emerged. — Here he is feasted with a continued succession of 
green meadows and cultivated fields teemmg with flocks and herds, and 
adorned by commodious and even elegant mansions. The chimnies of the 
salt manufactories pour forth at short intervals of space their curling masses 
of black vapor, whilst swarms of laborers and others connected with these 
establishments, ar>j canrlnually passing to and fro, — presenting a pleasing 
coup (V (Til of incessant activity and industry. — Nature indeed seems to 
have been prodigal in her bounties to this interesting region. The con- 
tiguous forests having been almost stripped to supply fuel to the salt fur- 
naces, — the precious mineral so necessary to human comfort, must have 
remained forever useless but for the discovery of inexhaustible beds of coal, 
so convenient of access, as to make the cost of procuring it scarcely worth 
considering. Sometimes, by suitable platforms and inclined culverts, it is 
thrown from the mountain side immediately to the door of the manufactory, 
and when more remote from the place of consumption, it is transported 
with equal ease in wagons or cars over rail roads constructed for the pur- 
pose. 

The whole product of the salt district, is estimated at 1,200,000 bushels 
annually — and this product must continue to swell with the increasing de- 
mand, and with the employment of additional capital. It is a curious fact, 
and worthy of philosophical inquiry, that whilst the salt water is obtained 
by boring at a depth of from 3 to 500 feet below the bed of the Kanawha, 
it invariably rises to a level with the river. When the latter is swollen by 
rains, or the redundant waters of its tributaries, — the saline fluid enclosed 
in suitable gums on the shore, ascends like the mercury in its tube, — and 
oily fills, when the rivor is restored to its wonted channel. How this mys- 
terious correspondence is produced, is a problem which remains to be 
solved. Theories and speculation, I have heard on the subject, but none 
seem to me to be precisely consonant with the principles of science. 

Immediately on the road and a short distance from the bank of the river, 
the celebrated Burning Spring, attracts the curiosity of the traveller. A 
cavity in the earth of a few feet in diameter, presents at its bottom several 
small orifices from which an odorous gas, or strong bituminous vapor is 
constantly exhaled. When ignited by a lighted candle, which is easily 
done, the whole becomes a sheet of flame, and is only extinguished by the 
plentiful application of water. Filling the cavity with water previously to 
ignition, does not diminish the brightness or fierceness of the blaze. In- 
flammable gasses undoubtedly abound in many portions of the valley. An 
anecdote illustrating the fact, was frequently related in my hearing, which 
1 cannot forbear to repeat. A very respectable gentleman somewhat ec- 
centric and a little profiine, had been boring for salt to the depth of GOO feel, 
when his friends endeavored to dissuade him from the costly experiment. 
"Salt I will have" he exclaimed, "if T b^-m fbr V< fn the iuf^nial rcir^oiis !" 
Accordingly he pressed on in pursuit of his object— with renewed perse- 
verance and ardor — and his boring apparatus having penetrated one of 
those sublciraiicous recesses, where nature generates her mysterious and 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— KANAWHA. 377 

tevrilic agents — a volume of flame suddenly burst through the orifice, and 
ascending far above the earth's surface, spread terror and amazement in 
the neighborhood. The less enlightened and superstitious, of course, 
fancied that the profane gentleman's threats had been really carried into 
execution, and that the contents of the awful and undefinable pit had been 
actually disgorged upon mother earth. 

"This charming country is not only rich in beautiful and picturesque 
scenes, but abounds in objects interesting to the naturalist and antiquarian. 
Besides its inexhaustible treasures of salt and coal, a quarry of fine marble 
has been recently found on the Elk river, and I doubt not that discoveries 
equally valuable would reward the diligent explorer. Specimens of slate 
stone, and other formations with impressions of vegetable remains are 
common, and a gentleman of science and distinction, informed me that 
coral had been found deeply imbedded in rock. Among the curiosities, 
may be mentioned, the Callico and Pictured rocks; the former of which 
represents a series of beautiful and uniform figures, inscribed by some won- 
derful process of nature, and the latter which is evidently a work of art, 
exhibits a variety of rude sketches of birds, fishes and beasts — generally 
supposed to be specimens of aboriginal sculpture. 

"There is, as I am informed, some miles from the bank of the Kanawha, 
a curious petrified tree, and the whole country is full of Indian fortifications 
and mouuds. From one of these ancient sepulchres an intelligent gentle- 
man stated to the writer, that a human skeleton was taken not many years 
since, probably the remains of some distinguished chief, whose exploits in 
battle or the chase had won the admiration of his tribe. 

"Indeed there is no department o( natural history Avhich might not be 
enriched by valuable acquisitions from this and almost every other portion 
of Western Virginia. The development of its boundless mineral wealth 
would not only extend the borders of science, but materially subserve the 
useful arts and the interests of commerce. Let channels of inter-commu- 
nication wuh the east be opened and multiplied by a liberal system of im- 
provement — let a geological survey be authorized by the Legislature, in 
imitation of the wise policy of Pennsylvania and Maryland — and the pa- 
triot will not yet despair of beholding this ancient and venerable State re- 
gaining her lost rank in the confederacy. 

"In enjoying the pleasures and advantages of safe transportation along 
the great State road, which traverses this section, there is a spectacle often 
presented, which awakens a melancholy train of reflections. I allude to 
the number of emigrants, who allured by the hope, sometimes deceptive, of 
improving their condition, are bending their toilsome march to the far wes:. 
Imagination becomes busy in conjuring up the broken ties of early asso- 
ciation, of kindred and country — and we read in the sorrowful visages of 
some of these wretched fugitives, tales of mental and bodily suflering, 
which no language could express. It is true, that some of these number- 
less caravans present the exterior of comfort and even happiness, but for 
the most part it is evidently the last struggle of despairing poverty, to 
escape from the hardships of its lot. Whilst' the philanthropist shudders 
at such scenes of wretchedness, the politician must mourn over the unceas- 
ing drain to population, as well as the causes which produce it. I trust, at 
least, if the wave of emigration must continue to flow westwardly, that the 
time will shortly come, when the forests and mountains of our own Com- 
48 



378 WESTERN VIRGINIA— KANAWHA. 

monwealth, will present sufficient attractions to break its force, it does 
not entirely arrest it." , . ,. 
Population in 1820, 7,000—1830, 9,326. It belongs to the 19th judi- 
cial circuit, and 10th district. Tax paid in 1833, $1,520 23— in 1834 on 
on lots, $180 34— land, $808 87—1197 slaves, $294 75—2197 horses 
$131 82—9 studs, $89 00—22 coaches, $51 00—22 carryalls, $22 00 
10gigs,$6 85. Total, $1,585 13. Expended in educating poor chil- 
dren in 1832, $814 72— in 1833, $752 88, 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 

Burning Spring. This natural | runs through a romantic valley, with- 
curiosity is situated in the low grounds- out receiving any tributary of any 



of the Great Kanawha river, 7 ms. 
above the mouth of Elk river, and 
67 above that of the Kanawha. The 
spring is a cavity in the earth of the 
capacity of 30 or 40 gallons, from 
which issues constantly a bituminous 



, consequence, from the junction of its 
north east and its west Fork, until it 
receives Little Coal river from the 
south. Much trade is carried on by 
the hardy mountaineers who dwell 
on the banks of this river, in boats 



vapor in so strong a current as to for the carriage of salt, and saw logs, 



give to the sand about its orifice the 
motion which it has in a boiling 
spring. On presenting a lighted 
candle or torch within iS inches of 
the hole, it flames up in a column of 
18 inches in diameter, and four or 
five feet in height, which sometimes 
burns out within 20 minutes, and at 
other times has been knoAvn to con- 
tinue three days, and then has been 
left still burning. The flame is un- 
steady, of the density of that of burn- 
ing spirits, and smells like burning 
pit coal. Water sometimes collects 
in the bason which is remarkably 
cold, and is kept in ebullition by the 
vapor issuing through it. If the 
vapor be fixed in that state, the water 
soon becomes so warm that the hand 
cannot bear it. This with the cir- 
cumjacent lands Avas the property of 
General Washington and of General 
Lewis. 

CoALSMOTJTii, P. V. 319 ms. from 
R. and 368 from W., situated on the 
south side of the Kanawha river, 12 
ms. below the town of Charleston, 
and at the mouth of Coal river. This 
little river is about 100 yards wide at 
its mouth, and does not vary this 
width for many miles above. It is 
a beautiful meandering stream, which 



which are brought down in times of 
freshet, from a distance of an hun- 
dred miles. These boats sell on the 
Kanawha for one dollar, to a dollar 
and twenty-five cents for each foot in 
length, and the logs Irom a dollar 
to one dollar and fifty cents per log. 
This money is laid out in goods, with 
which the enterprising woodsman re- 
turns. The obstructions in Coal 
river prevent its navigation in ordi- 
nary seasons. The lower falls of 
Coal river are situated 5 miles above 
the mouth, — and 5 miles above these 
are the upper falls. These falls, from 
the great water power which they 
afford at all seasons, will in time be- 
come places of considerable impor- 
tance. A few years hence and this 
section will become a fine wheat 
country. It is rapidly filling up with 
industrious, honest and enterprising 
people, and soon a plenty of the raw 
material will be found for manufac- 
tories, and if a scarcity of produce 
should occur by bad crops, the trans- 
portation from Ohio by steam boats, 
costs in comparison but little, and can 
be brought to any point, not distant 
three miles from either of the ialls. 
From its local advantages and the 
tide of immigration, it must in a few 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— KANAWHA. 



379 



years become much of a manufactu 
ring country. On the river Coal is 
found a great deal of very fine land, 
and the country is not so mountain- 
ous, or the sides so precipitous as to 
preclude their cuUivatlon. The 
quantity of game has depreciated 
considerably within the last 10 years, 
which is an evidence of the great in- 
crease of population; however the 
industry of the inhabitants furnishes 
a sufficient quantity of fine venison, 
and other wild game for the table, 
and the calculation may be in obtain- 
ing for years a reasonable supply for 
home consumption. Some few years 
ago the inhabitants made it one of 
their sources of traffic, but since the 
enterprise of these hardy sons of the 
forest has been turned into another 
channel, they seldom have time, or 
feel disposed to hunt, except to obtain 
venison for their own families and 
the neighborhood. The river affords 
in season the finest fish. The large 
black and white perch, the salmon 
pike, large cat fish, &,c. &c. The 
delicious soft shell turtle is abundant, 
and can be obtained with little trou- 
ble, and is by far superior to the sea 
turtle. The shell is cooked and sur- 



association with families wlio immi- 
grated from Eastern Virginia, have 
made wonderful change in the mor- 
als of the people. About a half mile 
up the river Coal, is a beautiful 
covered bridge. This bridge is on 
the turnpike road belonging to the 
State; below the bridge is a well 
graduated road, leading to and from 
the ford, which is seldom for four 
months in the year more than 1 2 inches 
deep, the water passing over a fine 
sandy bottom. At the bridge is a 
tavern kept in the best style, a black- 
smith shop, a tailor and carpenter 
shop, a house of public worship, 
(Methodist,) and 4 private families, 
with 2 regular physicians. At this 
place the stage passengers going to 
and from the M'est, dine. The post 
office is kept here, and four mails ar- 
rive from different points and are 
opened at this office — two daily and 
two three times a week. A por- 
tion of the land at this place has late- 
ly been laid oft' in half acre lots, with 
a view of establishing a town, and 
some of the lots have already been 
sold, and many buildings are in pro- 
gress of erection. A large manu- 
factory is about going into operation. 



passes the fine green fat turtle. Coaljand an extensive and well assorted 

river is fordable four months in the mercantile store has lately been es- 

year. At Coalsmouth there isa good tablished, and there is every proba 

tavern, a mercantile store, and 3 pri-' '" • - ' 

vate families; about 1 mile from the 

mouth, down the Kenawha, isa large 

steam manufacturing mill, a grist 

and saw mill, a cooper's, a tailor's 

and blacksmith's shops, and 4 private 

families. The bottom land about the 

mouth of Coal is rich, and in ex-! posing of his surplus produce, his 

tent about a half mile wide. The! wheat can at all times be sold at his 

usual average crop of the farmer is door from 62 J to 75 cents per bushel, 

and the cash paid. Coal river de- 
rives its name from the quantity of 
coal in which it abounds, and that of 



bility that Coalsmouth in a few years 
will become a handsome and "lluur- 
ishing village, extending from the 
bridge to the mouth of Coal river. 
The immigration to the west through 
this place is very great, which gives 
to the farmer an opportunity of dis- 



50 bushels of corn and 25 of wheat 
to the acre. The country at this 
point has a grand and beautiful ap- 
pearance, — the neighborhood is com- 'the finest quality. The resources of 
posed of many refined and wealthy i this neighborhood and county are in- 
families; — some kw years back the; calculable, and to the enterprising 
inhabitants were unrefined, and rude {man holds out advantages truly flat- 
in their manners, but religion and an tering. The country is remarkably 



38U 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— KANAWHA. 



healthy, — no local disease is attached 
to the neighhorhood. 

Hansford, P. O. 292 ms. from 
R. and 333 S. W. by W. of W., 
situated on the Kana^vha turnpike, 
opposite to the mouth of Paint's 
creek, or as some call it, Ycllotv 
river, — 21 ms. E. of Charleston, and 
1 4 W. of the Falls of the Great Ka- 
naAvha. The only houses are a mer- 
cantile store, and a house of enter- 
tainment. There are in the imme- 
diate vicinity 3 miscellaneous stores, 
1 Baptist house of worship, and a 
temperance society. The principal 
pursuits of the inhabitants are agri- 
culture, and building flat boats to 
navigate the Kanawha. These boats 
are generally from 60 to 100 feet in 
lenffih. 

KANAWHA C. H. or Charles- 
ton, P. V. and neat of justice, 308 
ms. N. W. by W. of R., and 3.5C 
from W. This is a beautiful little 
village, situated on the north bank of 
ihe Great Kanawha, at the junction 
of Elk river, 60 ms. above the junc- 
tion of the former with the Ohio, and 
225 ms. W. ot Charlottesville. Its 
principal street extends about a mile 
on the bank of the Kanawha, and is 
terminated by the Elk, which flows 
nearly at right angles into the former 
.stream. Indeed there is something 
like enchantment in the contrast o 
this flourishing village, with the wild- 
ness and solitude of the same spot, 
less than 30 years past. The panther 
and wolf, have been driven from their 
savage haunts, by the march of civili- 
zation and refinement — and where a 
iew scattered log huts once arrested 
the traveller's eye, he now sees com- 
modious and elegant buildings, the 
abodes of comfort and even of luxu- 
ry. The village contains besides the 
ordinary county buildings, 125 dwel- 
ling houses, all presenting a neat and 
fresh appearance. There are 2 
houses of public worship, ( 1 Presby- 
terian and 1 Methodist,) a female 
academy, and an infant school, a 



Branch of the Bank of Virginia, a 
masonic lodge and chapter, a bible 
society, a tract, colonization and sun- 
day school society. There are 13 
miscellaneous stores, 3 hotels, 3 smith 
shops, and 1 tanyard, 2 steam saw 
mills, and one steam merchant mill. 
The Kanawha river is here a beau- 
tiful sheet of water, more than 300 
yards wide and 20 feet deep at low 
water, — navigable for steamboats. 
The state turnpike passess through 
this town, on which there is a line 
of stages from Washington city and 
Richmond to Guyandotte, which car- 
ries the mail from these two cities in 
four days and a half Population 
about 800 persons; of whom 7 are 
attorneys, and 3 regular physicians. 
Charleston is remarkable for the li- 
berality and enterprise of its inhabi- 
tants. The hills adjacent abound with 
fine quarries of sandstone for build- 
ing, and rich bituminous stone coal, 
which is the common fuel. 

County Courts are held on the 2(i 
Monday in every month; — Quarter- 
ly in March, June, August and No- 
vember. 

Judge Summers holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the \\th of May and October. 

Kanawha Saline or Terra 
Salts, P. O. 308 ms. N. W. of R., 
fland 350 N. W. by W. of W This 
is a new and small village situated on 
the northwestern side of the Kanaw- 
ha river abovit G miles above Charles- 
ton, containing 20 dwelling houses, 
3 mercantile stores, a Methodist and 
a Presbyterian house of worship, and 
1 hotel. The town is directlj'- con- 
nected with the salt trade, and rapid- 
ly improving. — A daily mail arrives 
at this place. 

Kanawha Salt Works. These 
valuable works are situated on the 
Kanawha river, commencing near 
Charleston, and embracing a distance 
of 15 miles aboA'e, on each side of 
the river. The salt water is obtained 
anywhere within that distance, by 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— LEE. 



381 



boring' or sinking a shaft, from three 
to live hundred feet below the bed of 
the river, through a solid rock, from 
which it is brought to the surface 
through the surrounding fresh water, 
in copper tubes, and is raised to the 
bank of the river by steam engines, 
and IS thrown into cisterns, whence 
it is conveyed to the furnaces. There 
are at present about GO furnaces, 
manufacturing about one million two 
hundred thousand bushels annually, 
and the quantity is only limited by 
the demand. The adjacent hills 
abound with stone coal of a superior 
quality, which lies in horizontal 
strata, varying in thickness Irom 4 
to 7 feet. The coal is conveyed from 
the mines to the furnace on rail road.s. 
There has been for the last year a 
furnace manufacturing allum salt by 
steam, which is said to be equal to 
the imported article. At this furnace 
100 bushels of this salt are made per 
day. Several others are erecting on 
the same plan, and will soon be in 
operation. The exports of the sah 
from these works in 1832, is estimat- 
ed as being worth to the proprietors 
S250,000. Seldom has it fallen to 
the lot of any region of country to 
possess such inexhaustible sources oi 
mineral wealth on the borders of a 



fine nevigable river, leading to a re- 
gion of country which will one day 
be filled with almost boundless mul- 
titudes of people. 

PocoTALico, p. O. 318 ms. from 
R. and 253 S. W. of W. 

Tkage's Valley, P. O. 328 ms. 
from R. and 376 S. W. of W., situ- 
ated in the western part of the coun- 
ty, 20 ms. W. of Charleston. 

Walnut Grove, P. O. 330 ms. 
from R. and 379 S. W. by W. of W., 
situated in the western part of the 
county, on the left bank of the Great 
Kanawlia river, 25 ms. below Charles- 
ton, and 35 above the confluence of 
the Kanawha and Ohio. No town 
has yet been laid out at this place, 
but a steam saw mill, a mercantile 
store, wood yard, &c., concentrate a 
good proportion of business. A 
steam manufacturing flour mill, and 
some other manufactories, are about 
going into operation, which with the 
advantages that the site derives from 
the facility of transportation in the 
surrounding country, the abundance 
of fine coal and limber in the neigh- 
borhood, and the facilities of the 
navigation, will probably place it 
among the thriving villages of the 
west. 



L.EE. 



Lee County, was taken from Russell in the year 1792, it is situated 
400 hundred miles W. S. W. of Riclunond, — bounded N. and AV. by the 
Cumberland mountains, separating it from the State of Kentucky, S. by 
Tennessee, E. by the county of Scott, and N. E. by the county of RusseL 
This county is singularly laid out, owing to its lying in Powel's valley, 
which is narrow: it is of considerable length and quite narrow, — its ex- 
tent from E. to W. is 83 ms., while its width from N. to S. does not exceed 
15 ms., and area 800 sq. ms., extending in lat. 3G° 30' to 37° 06' and in 
long. 5° 35' to 6=" 30' W. of W. C. This county is famous for the richness 
of the soil, productiveness of the lands, and largeness of the timber; among 
the growth of which is found the sugar maple, ash, buckeye, poplar, black 
and white walnut, lynn, black and white oak, maple, elm, cucumber, and 
beach: all of which grow very large and tall. The land is of a very black,' 



382 WESTERN VIRGINIA— LEE. 

rich soil, well adapted to growing coin, hemp, wheat, rye, oats, Irish pota- 
toes and timothy. 

This county has many fine and excellent springs of water, breaking out 
from the base of the mountains, which make their way briskly down the 
vallies, which are deep and narrow, and consequently afford fine mill seats. 
The principal mountains are, Powell's mountain, Walden's ridge, the Stone 
mountain, Little Beach and Big Black. Walden's ridge takes its rise in 
the N. E. of this county, and runs S. W. into the State of Tennessee; these 
mountains and ridges are all rich on the N. side, while they are extremely 
poor on the S. side. The N. sides of the mountains abound with limestone 
of very hard quality, while the S, sides are covered with free stone. There 
is a leading small ridge, called the Poor Valley Ridge, which is entirely 
the reverse of any other in this range of hills and mountains, while the 
others are all poor, — on the S. side it is very rich and productive, while 
the N. side of this Ridge is very poor. There is a knob called Stock- 
er's knob in the N. E. part of the county, which is very high, 3 miles long, 
and at the E. end is a settlement called the Turkey Cove; and at the W, 
end is a another fine settlement called Yacum Station; these are two as fine 
settlements as the county affords. There is one other place worthy of no- 
tice, found among the mountains of this county, and that is a very high 
peak, called the Butt of Powell's mountain. The mountain here bends pre- 
cisely in the form of a horse shoe; — this bend of the mountain forms a most 
delightful cove of L^ miles in width, which is as level as a bowling green, 
and as rich as the delta of the Nile, covered thickly with trees of the largest 
growth, and the greatest height. " Precisely N. of this high peak called 
the butt, the north fork of Clmch river takes its rise, and runs through the 
mountain; this gap through which the creek runs, is one of the most pic- 
turesque places in western Virginia. The mountain almost perpendicular 
on both sides, and covered with huge masses of craggy rocks, that look as 
though they would tumble from their sandy foundations, and fill the deep 
valley below, presents to the traveller one of the most striking displays of 
omnipotent power." On the E. side of this water course, we have one of 
the most noted salt-petre caves ever known ; from which, there has been an 
immense quantity of salt-petre made. This cave is situated very near the 
top of Powel's mountain, and may be easily discovered from the valley, 
where you may see hillocks of the earth, from which the salt-petre has been 
extracted. There are also large beds of fine iron ore, from which some 
years ago, there was a small quantity of fine iron made at the iron works, 
on the north fork of Clinch river, which works has since gone into ruins. 
There are also other beds of fine iron ore in this county, lying on Martin's 
ereek, from which, there is at this time a quantity of iron made. There are 
row two forges situated on Martin's creek, which make excellent iron: also 
two on Indian creek, with one furnace for making castings. The princi- 
pal vi/'ater courses, are Powell's river, Walden's creek, Martin's creek, In- 
dian creek and Trading creek. On the waters of this creek, the main road, 
ascends a considerable ridge, over which there has been a road of very an- 
cient date, as there are at this time, growing in the middle of the bed of the 
road, trees of the larges growth. The ascension of the ridge by the way of 
this road, shows that the greatest judgment and care, had been taken in lo- 
cating and constructing the road. It is supposed that it has been ages since 
this road was constructed, as the earliest settlers of the county, found it as 
above described. There are in the country of Lee, 4 Methodist churches, 3 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— LEE. 383 

Baptist and 1 Presbyterian. There arc 13 Methodist ministers, G Baptist 
ministers regularly ordained, and 2 physicians. The staple of this county- 
is stock, such as beef, pork and horses, — the pork is carried to eastern Vir- 
ginia, the beef to Pennsylvania and Maryland, and the horses to Virginia, 
or North Carolina. The merchandize of every description is purchased in 
Bahimore, or Philadelphia. The people of this county make their own 
sugar and Molasses, from the sugar tree, which grows in great abundance, 
on the N. sides of all the mountains and creek bottoms. The tree is of a 
rough, short bark, spreading top and straight body, some quite white, and 
others very black. Those which are black have the sweetest water, and are 
very apt to be pecked very much by a bird of small size, called the sap- suck- 
er. The trees are chopped with a small axe, and bored with a small augur 
or gimblet, and a tube placed in the orifice, through Avhich the water is car- 
ried into a small trough, placed for the purpose of catching the water. 
The tree which is thought to afford a common quantity of water, will, if 
there is a hard freeze, and a warm day after it, afford 8 gallons of water, 
Avhich will always make one pound of sugar, if carefully boiled down. The 
most common mode of boiling is to place the boilers in a small furnace; but 
this method requires more attention, to prevent the boilers from burning the 
sugar. There is in Lee county, probably more tree sugar made, than in 
any other county in the S. W. there being more fine sugar orchards. The 
precise quantity is not known, but supposed between 5 and GOOO pounds, with 
a quantity of molasses, which, if put up in vessels will keep and improve 
from age. Population of Lee in 1830, 4,256 — 1820, 6,461. It belongs to 
the fifteenth judicial circuit, and eight district. Tax paid in 1833, $715 12 
—in 1834 on lots, $18 92— on land, $352 14—327 slaves, $81 75— 
2330 horses, $139 80—10 studs, $48 00—7 carryalls, $7 00—4 gigs, 
$3 00. Total $650 61. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, 
$404 34— in 1833, $284 43. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



JONESVILLE, P. V. and Scat 
of Justice, 392 ms. S. W. by W. of 
R. and 468 W. S. W. of VV. in lat. 36° 
40' and long. 6° 02' W. of W. C, 
situated N. of Powell's river, on one 
of its branches, 65 ms. N. E. of 
Knoxville, Tenn. and 60 S. E. by E 



smith shops, 1 hatter, 1 wagon ma- 
ker, and several house carpenters. 
Population 159 whites; of whom 1 is 
a resident attorney, and 1 a regular 
physician, — colored 37. Total 196. 
This village stands upon a beauti- 
ful eminence, between the Stone inotm- 



of Barboursville, Kty. The site ox\ taina.x\(\ Waldcn^s ridge, in Powell's 
which this village is located is veryi valley, through which flows Powell's 
uneven; resembling in this respect i river. The scenery which surrounds 
the general surface of the county. It it, though Avild is very pleasing, and 
was laid off in the year 1793. It especially so when the mountains on 
contains besides the ordinary county! both sides are covered with rich ver- 
buildings, which are handsome, 40;dure. The variety of hills presented 
dwelling houses, 1 house of public'by the mighty growth of forest trees 
worship, recently erected and free for' rising in succession one above the 
all denaminations, 1 common school, other on all sides, with here and 
4 miscellaneous stores, 1 tavern, 2 there an old grey rock jutting from 
tanners and curriers, 3 saddlers, 1 the foliage, or a bank of mo$s peeping 
boot and shoe factory, 3 tailors, 4 through, and nearly the whole earth 



584 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— LEWIS. 



beneath covered with luxuriant herbs 
and flowers, present a scene of rich 
luxuriant beauty, of which a lowland- 
er, in his level unbroken plains can- 
not entertain a conception. 

County Courts are held on the ord 
Monday in every month. Quarterly 
in March, June, August and Noccm- 
ber. 

Judge Estill holds his Circuit 
Superior Courts of Law and Chance- 



ry on the \st Monday in April and 
September. 

Rose Hill, P. V. 412 ms. from 
R. and 488 from W., situated 20 ms. 
W. of Jonesville, on the road leading 
from the Crab Orchard and Wilder- 
ness, in Kty. by the Cumberland Gap, 
in Tenn. through Powell's A^alley to 
Abingdon, 16 ms. E. of the Gap, and 
95 W. of Abingdon. 



LEWIS* 

Lewis was established by act of Assem.bly in 1816, and formed from a por- 
tion of Harrison county. It is bounded N. by Harrison, — E. by Randolph, 
S. and S. W. by Kanawha,— S. by Nicholas and W. and N. W. by Wood. 
Itsmean lengthis 54ms.;mean breadth 32^-; andarea l,754sq. ms. extending 
in lat. from 38° 38' to 39° 12' N. and in long, from 3° to 4° 17' W. of W. 
C. The surface of this county is composed of three inclined plains, — the 
southern portion inclining westward in the direction of the Little Kanawha, 
which flows through the county diagonally, from its southeastern to its 
southwestern angles, — the northeastern portion inclines northward towards 
the West Fork of the Monongahela river, and Tj^gart's Valley river, and 
the northwestern portion inclines to the N. W. in the direction of Middle 
Island creek. The surface of the county is rocky, hilly, and in some parts 
mountainous. Population in 1820, 4,247 — in 1830, 6,241. It belongs to 
the 18th judicial circixit and 9th district. Tax paid in 1833, $851 37 — 
in 1834 on lots, $26 59— on land, $431 85—87 slaves, $21 75—2,312 
horses, $138 72—15 studs, $71 00. Total $689 91. Expended in edu- 
ating poor children in 1832, 404 34— in 1S33, $467 36. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



BuciiANNON, p. V. 266 ms. N. W.f 
of R. and 266 from W., situated on} 
Buchannon river, in the eastern part^ 
of the county, 15 ms. from Wesion,\ 
25 ms. from Beverly, and 30 from! 
Clarksburg, county seats of Randolph 
and Harrison. Buchannon cannot 
be called a village, but rather a small j 
settlement, having about 330 scatter-! 
ing dwelling houses, extending along 
both sides of the river about 25 miles. 
There are in this settlement 4 houses 
of public wor.ship, (2 Methodist, 1 
Baptist and 1 Presbyterian. No re- 
gular schools kept, except in the three 
winter months. There is 1 bible so- 



ciety, 2 tract and 3 temperance socie- 
ties. Within the limits mentioned 
are 2 mercantile stores, 7 country 
mills, 3 Avool carding machines, 1 taa- 
yard, 8 or 10 blacksmith shops, and 
about the same number of boot and 
shoe factorie-s, cabinet makers and 
house carpenters, with 2 wagon ma- 
kers and various other mechanics. 
The principal pursuit of the inhabi- 
tants is agriculture. This is a fine 
section of country, and the land tole- 
rably fertile, producing coin, wheat, 
rye, oats, flax, potatoes, &c. Buchan- 
non river runs nearly, a N. comse^ 
and empties into Tygart's Valley ri- 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— LEWIS, 



385 



ver. It lies between the Middle Fork 
a branch of Tygart's Valley river and 
the Monong-ahela. The state road 
passes directly through this settle- 
ment. Population 1,250. 

Bull Town, P. O. 296 ms. from 
R. and the same distance from W. 
situated on the Little Kanawha river, 
about 24 ms S. W. of Wesloii. — 
Though called a village it is simply 
a post office, and derives its name 
from the circumstance of a kw fami- 
lies of Indians having been once set- 
tled on this river (Little Kanawha) 
about one mile and a quarter below 
this place, whose head man or chief 
was called Capt. Bull; and hence the 
name of Bull Town was given to 
iheir little village of wigwams, and 
the spot on which they lived yet re- 
tains the name, although the Indians 
have abandoned it since about the 
years 1771-2 or 3. There is now no 
vestige left on the spot where once 
their little town stood. The first set- 
tlement made at the place by a white 
man, was in 1800 or 1801, then 15 
or 20 ms. from any other inhabitants. 
It is now occupied as a farm by Mr. 
•John Conrod, his dwelling house be- 
ing several hundred yards from it. 
The site on which the village stood is 
a little eminence projecting from the 
spur of a ridge into a spacious rich 
bottom, a part of which was cultivated 
by the Indians. There is a salt work 
established here, on a limited scale, 
called the Bull Town Salt Works. 
These works manufacture from 15 
to 20 bushels of salt per day. This 
neighborhood is but thinly settled, 
having only 1 country grist and saw 
mill at the falls, 2^ ms. above this 
place. These fails are about 1 1 or 
12 feet, and form a valuable seat for 
iron works, there being an abundance 
of iron ore in the immediate vicinity, 
lying idle for want of capital and cn- 
terprize. In the vicinity are 2 tan- 
yards. The mail arrives at this P. 
(). once a week. 

Collins' 3ErrLL.ni;M-, P. O. 286 



ms. from R. and the same distance 
from W., situated in the western part 
of the county, 

French Creek, P. O. 27G ms. 
W. of R. and 276 from W. This 
creek empties into Buchannan river. 
On the banks of this creek is situated 
French creek settlement, comprising 
about 8 ms. square, containing 66 
scattering dwelling houses, occupied 
by an industrious and enterprizing 
people, who have emigrated from the 
New England States within the last 
15 years. There are 1 house of pub- 
lic worship, (Presbyterian) 1 tanyard, 
a number ot wheelwrights, house car* 
penters, cabinet makers and joiners, 
and 1 temperance, 1 tract and 1 bible 
society. The principal pursuit of 
the inhabitants is agriculture. Thir^ 
settlement is divided into 5 school 
districts, where the common branches 
of English education are taught 6 
months in the year. The state of 
education, being far superior to that 
which exists in the country adjacent. 
Population 400. 

Flat Woods P. O. 304 ms. from 
R. and 304 W. of W., situated in the 
western part of the county. 

Freeman's Creek, P. O. 250 ms. 
from R. and 245 W. of W. 

Hackersville, p. O. 260 ms. 
from R. and 246 W. of W. This is 
merely a post office, situated on Hack- 
er's creek, 7 ms. from Weston, 1 37 
from Clarksburg, 50 from the Ohio 
river, and 35 from the Little Kanaw- 
ha Salt Works. The neighborhood 
is thickly settled. The lands are of 
the best quality with extensive tracts 
of arable land suitable for meadows, 
on whicj) large quantities of cattle are 
grazed and raised for market annual- 
ly. The surrounding country is hil- 
ly, and very productive, — abounding 
with the best of stone coal, and well 
timbered with walnut, poplar, sugar 
maple, beach and white oak. In the 
vicinity are 3 houses of public wor- 
•ship, 2 Methodist and 1 Bapli.st, 4 
mi^ccUaneou.'s store?, I lanyard and 



386 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— LOGAN. 



various mechanics, and several mills 
Leadixg Creek, P, O. equi-dis- 
tant 267 ms. from R. and W., situated 
in the northern part of the county, 18 
ms. from Weston. Leading creek is 
a small stream which empties into 
the Little Kanawha, 112 ms. below 
the P. O. On its waters and tributa- 
ries are 40 dwelling houses, 1 Metho- 
dist and 1 Baptist house of worship, 
2 common schools and 1 tanyard. 



ms. enters into the Little Kanawha, 
about 15 ms. above its confluence 
with the Ohio. Hughes' river is 
navigable for more than 50 ms. from 
its mouth, and sufficiently large for 
floating vessels of considerable bur- 
then. Great quantities of lumber, be- 
sides a number of flat bottomed boats 
are carried down this stream to the 
Ohio. It abounds with excellent fish. 
McWhorter's Mills, P. O. 256 



Population 240. The principal oc- ms. from R. and 242 from W. 
cupation of the inhabitants is agricul-j WESTON, P. V. and Seat of Ju.<- 
ture. On the waters of the Little Ka-^ice, 249 ms. from R. and from W.,situ- 
nawha, embraced within this neigh-jated on the West Fork of the Monon- 
borhood, and supplied from this post: gahela river, 70 ms. S. E. of Marietta, 
office, are 100 dwelling houses, 5 in Ohio. It contains besides the or- 
hauses of public worship, — 4 of which dinary county buildings, 30 dwelling 
are Methodist, 3 common schools, 3| houses, 1 common school, 4 mcrcan- 
mercantile stores and 1 tanyard. — tile stores, 4 manufactories, 1 manu- 
Population 500. jfacturing flour mill, 1 tanyard and 2 

LoRENTz's Store, P. O. 2G1 ms. saddlers. Population 167 persons; of 
W. of W. and the same distance fromi whom 5 are resident attorneys and 2 



Richmond 

LowMAN, P. O. 291 ms. from R. 
and 286 W. of W., situated on the N. 
W boundary of the county, on the 
main post road leading from Weston 
to Parkersburg, 42 ms. from the for- 
mer, and 37 from the latter place, on 
Hughes' river, a considerable branch 
of the Little Kanawha, which after a (can. 
meandering course of more than 1001 



regular physicians. 

County Courts are held on the \st 
Tuesday in every month; — Quarter- 
ly in March, June, August and No- 
vember. 

Circuit Superior Courts of Law 

and Chancery are held on the 13/Aof 

April ?i-nA September, by Judge DtN- 



LOGAN. 

Logan was established by act of Assembly in the year 1824, and taken 
from a portion of Giles, Kanawha, Tazewell and Cabell. It is bounded N. 
by Kanawha, — N. E. by Fayette, — E. by the Great Flat Top mountain, 
which separates it from Giles and a part of Tazewell, — S. by Tazewell, W. 
by Tug Fork of Sandy river, which separates it from Floyd county, Ken- 
tucky, and N. W. by Cabell. Its mean length is 66 ms. ; mean breadth 
44^ ; and hs area 2,930 sq. ms., extending in lat. from 38° 13', to 37° 10' 
N., and in long, from 3° 50', to 5° 22' W. of W. C. This county is prin- 
cipally Avatered by Guyandotte and Little Coal rivers and their tributaries ; 
Guyandotie flowing tliagonally from S. E. to N. W. The principal 
branches of Little Coal that waters the N. W. border, arc Pond, Beach and 
Laurel Forks, having their rise in Hufl^s' mountain, — those watering the 
N. E. part of the county, are Clear Fork, Big Fork and Rockcastle creeks, 
having their rise in Cherry Pond mountain, which separates Logan from 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— MARSHALL. 



387 



Fayette: thej' empty into the Guyandottc. Elkhorn and Camp creeks 
have their rise in tlie Great Flat Top mountain, and after running a con- 
siderable distance through the county, empty into Tug Fork, which sepa- 
rates it from Tazewell on the S. W. There are several other creeks of 
minor importance. This county is generally mountainous and incapable 
of close settlement. The soil however, is rich, and the climate well adapt- 
ed to raising sheep; and it will some day be perhaps one of the finest wool 
growing counties in the United States. The principal exports are gin- 
sang, cattle and peltry in considerable quantities. It contained at the last 
census 3,681 persons, but since that period a portion has been taken off by 
the new county of Fayette. It belongs to the 9th judicial circuit and 10th 
district. Ta.x'paid in 1833, $184 95— in 1834, on lots, $8 84— on land, 
888 83—63 slaves, $15 75—757 horses $45 52—3 .studs, $17 00—1 
carryall, $1 00. Total $176 84. No report from school commissioners 
in 1832. Expended in 1833, $196 16. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Ballardsville, p. O. 349 ms. 
from R. and 390 S. W. by W. of W. 
situated on Little Coal river about 20 
ms. above the forks. It contains 12 
or 15 houses, 2 houses of public wor- 
ship, (I Methodist and I Baptist,) 2 
schools, in which are taught all the 
usual branches of English education, 
2 mercantile stores, 1 grist and saw 
mill; and 1 establishment for clarify- 
ing ginsang, which is one of the sta- 
ple commodities of the village and 
county. Many flat bottomed boats are 
built here, which carry salt from the 
works on the Great Kanawha, and 
various other mechanical operations 
are carried on. The soil of the sur- 
rounding country is fertile, producing 
corn, wheat, rye, oats, hemp, flax, 
sweet and Irish potatoes in abundance. 
Population about 100 persons; of 
whom 1 is an attorney, and 2 are re- 
gular physicians. 

Big Creek, P. O. 338 ms. S. W 
of R. and 396 S. W. by W. of W., 
situated in theS. E. part of the coun- 
ty, 70 ms. S. S. E. of Charleston on 
the Great Kanawha river. 



LAWNSVILLE, or LOGAN 
C. H. P. V. 324 ms. W. of R. and 

383 from W., situated in a fertile bot- 
tom in a bend of the river Guyandotte, 
surrounded by mountains abounding 
in stone coal and iron ore. This vil- 
lage was laid off by act of Assembly 
in 1827, since which time a handsome 
C. H., clerk's office, and jail have 
been erected of hewn stone, — also 
several dwelling houses, and others 
are now being erected. The other 
improvements are 2 houses of enter- 
tainment, 2 mercantile stores, 1 tan- 
yard, 1 smith shop, 1 tailor shop and 
I boot and shoe makers establish- 
ment. Besides these there are seve- 
ral house carpenters, and various oth- 
er mechanics. 

County Courts dixe\\e\di on the "ird 
Monday in every month : — Quarter- 
ly in March, June, August and No- 
vember. - 

Judge Summers holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the ^th of May and October. 

Loop, P. O. 266 ms. from R. and 
320 S. W. by W. of VV. 



MARSHALL, 

Marshall was created at the latter part of the session of the (ieneral 
Assembly ot 1834-5, whilst this work was in the pres.':. It is formed from 



388 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— MASON. 



the southern part of Ohio county; bounded N. by Ohio county, E. by 
Pennsylvania, S. by Tyler, and W. by the Ohio river. Its precise limits 
we have no means ol ascertaining. The general description, and its towii.s, 
villages, &c. will be given under the head of Ohio county. 



MASON. 

Mason was created by Act of Assembly in 1804, and formed from a 
portion of Kanawha county. It is bounded N. by Wood, — E. by Kanaw- 
ha, — S. by Cabell,— and W. by the Ohio river, which separates it from 
Gallia county, in the State of Ohio. Its mean length i.« 37^ ms. ; mean 
breadth 24:^;' and area 904 sq, ms. It extends in lat. from 38° 32', to 39° 
05' N., and in long, from 4° 22', to 5° 12' W. of W. C. The Ohio river 
bounds this county for 60 ms., and the Great Kanawha floAvs through its 
southern part in a N. W. direction. The surface is much broken, but 
much of the soil ts of good quality. Salt water has been found near the 
Kanawha by sinking wells. Population in 1820, 4,868—1830, 6,534. It 
belongs to the 9th judicial circuit, and 10th district. Tax paid in 1833, 
$814 64— in 1834, on lots, $47 66— land, $466 24—433 slaves, $108 25 
— 1,917 horses, $11 02—10 studs, $55 00—1 coach, $2 00—5 carryalls, 
$5 00. Total $799 17. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, 
$283 41— in 1833, $223 45. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Buffalo, P. O. 343 ms. from R. 
and 380 from W., situated in the S. 
E. part of the county, on the E. bank 
of the Kanawha river, about 21 ms. 
from its confluence with the Ohio, 
and 50 ms. S. E. of Point Pleasant. 
It contains several dwelling houses, 
1 Methodist house of worship, 1 mer- 
cantile store and 1 Avarehouse. It is 
known as a public landing, and a 
place of some trade. There is a pa- 
tent ferry established on the river, on 
the pendulum and lee board system. 
Its situation is pleasant and healthy, 
and eligible on several accounts. The 
surrounding country is thickly set- 
tled, and the business of the neighbor- 
hood for the distance of 10 or 15 ms. 
is done at this place. 

Hereford's, P. O. 360 ms. N. 
W. by W. of R. and 390 W. of W. 

Lane's, P. O. 366 ms. both from 
W. and R. 

POINT PLEASANT, P V. and 



Seat of Justice, 358 ms. N. W. by 
W. of R. and 358 S. W. of W., situ- 
ated on the point above the junction 
of the Ohio and Great Kanawha ri- 
vers, in lat. 38° 50', and long. 5° 7' 
W. of W. C. It contains besides the 
ordinary county buildings, 40 dwel- 
ling houses, 1 common school, 6 mer- 
cantile stores, 1 extensive steam ma- 
nufacturing flour mill, 1 steam saw 
mill, 2 tanyards, 1 saddler, 2 black- 
smith shops, and 2 cabinet makers. 
Population 240 persons; of whom 2 
are resident attorneys, and 2 regular 
physicians. 

County Courts are held on the \st 
Monday, in every month; — Quar- 
terly in March, June, August and 
November. 

Judge Summers holds his Circuit 
Superior Courts of Law and Chancery 
on the 16/// of April, and Septem- 
ber 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— MONONCMLIA. 389 

MONONGALIA. 

Monongalia was established by act of Assembly in the year 1776, and 
formed from a portion of tlic District of West Augusta. It is bounded N. 
by Green and Fayette counties of Pa. — E. by Preston, — S. E. by Ran- 
dolph, — S. by Flarrison, — and W. by Tyler. Its mean length isSo^ miles, 
mean breadth 21^: and area 721 square miles. It extends m lat. from 39° 
17' to 39° 42' N. and in long, from 2° 39' to 3° 25' W. of W. C. The 
face of the country is generally mountainous and hilly; one-third of the ter- 
ritory of the county, lying upon what is called in this country the "Laurel 
Hill," it being the last western regular ridge of the Alleghanies; the other 
two-thirds, or western part of the county, being intersected by hills and 
rallies. 

Notwithstanding the mountainou.';ness of the country, the soil is very 
fertile; producing good crops of all kinds of grain and vegetables common 
to this latitude. And it is remarkably well tunbered, both as to variety 
and size. 

The rivers watering this county, arc the Monongahela, Cheat, West Fork 
and Tygart's Valley. The Monongahela is formed by the junction (a few 
miles below the dividing line between Monongalia and Harrison counties) 
of the West Fork and Tygart's Valley rivers. It thence flows in a northern 
direction, through the middle of the county; and passes out at the Pennsyl- 
vania line, about two miles above the mouth of Cheat river. It is naviga- 
ble from its head, in time of freshets, for flat-boats of the largest size. And 
steam-boats have frequently ascended from Pittsburg to Morgantown, ten 
miles above the mouth of Cheat. From Pittsburg to Morgantown, the navi- 
gation of this river is very easy for steam and flat-boats, and unobstructed, 
except by low water; and is becoming very considerable. From Morgan- 
town upwards the navigation is more difficult, and can only be effected in 
times of freshets. The West Fork, which flows but about three miles 
through this county, is a considerable stream, and is navigable for flat-boats 
in time of freshets, as high as Clarksburg in Harrison county. The Ty- 
gart's Valley although a considerable stream, is only navigable about ten 
miles ; it being obstructed by very high falls. It is part of the dividing line 
between this county and Harrison, and Randolph. Cheat river has its 
source near that of Tygart's Valley; and after flowing a northwestern di- 
rection, through Randolph, Preston and this county, empties into the Mo- 
nongahela, two miles below the Pennsylvania line. Although it is a con- 
siderable stream, affording nearly as much water as the Monongahela, it is 
only navigable as high as Jackson's Iron Works, a distance of eight or ten 
miles. 

The principal creeks in this county, are Decker's, Whiteday, Prickett's 
and Threefork creeks, which empty into tlie Monongahela on the east side, 
and Dunkard, Indian, Pawpaw and Buffaloe creeks, which empty in on the 
west side of said river. They all afford many excellent seats for water power, 
several of which are occupied. 

The principal exports of this county, are stock, (horses, cattle, hogs and 
sheep,) iron, lumber and some flour. There are three forges, and three 
furnaces (and another being erected) in this county; which manufacture 
very large quantities of iron annually. There is also one nail factory, and 
several good merchant flour mills. Jackson's Iron Works, on Cheat river, 
are considered the most valuable in Western Virginia, or perhaps in the 



390 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— MONONGALIA. 



western country. There has lately been a sah-well sunk in this county, 
which promises well. 

On the road leading^ from Clarksburg and Beverly, 5 miles from Morgan- 
town, on the plantation of Henry Hamihon, there is a large flat rock about 
150 feet long, and 50 wide, with numerous engravings of animals, well exe- 
cuted — Such as panthers of full size, — butfaloe tracks, — horse tracks, deer 
tracks, turkey tracks, eels, fish, women as large as life, human tracks, otters, 
beavers, snakes, crows, eagles, wild cats, foxes, wolves, racoons, opossums, 
bears, elks, &c. &c. This is probably one of the most extensive specimens 
o[ the arts of the aborigines, to be found in our country. 

The RaL'e7i^s Rock is also Avorthy of notice. — It is situated on Boothe'^s 
creek, about 3^ miles south of Morgantown, and half a mile from the en- 
trance of the creek into the Monongahela river. In this rock there are 
some strata of coal and of iron ; and except in these strata the whole rock 
is perforated like a pigeon box. This rock is 150 feet high, 40 feet thick at 
its base and 20 at its top. Population in 1820, 11,060 — in 1830, 14,056. 
It belongs to the 20th judicial circuit, and 10th district. Tax paid in 1833, 
81,402 33 — in 1834, on lots, $130 46 — on land, $775 54—184 slaves, 
$46 00—5417 horses, $325 02—36 studs, $102 00— 3 coaches, $6 00— 
5 carryalls, $5 00— 3 gigs, $1 50. Total, $1392 52.— Expended in edu- 
cating poor children in 1832, $887 15— in 1833, $870 92. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Barns' Mills, P. O. 290 ms. from 
R. and 233 N. W. by W. of W. C, 
situated in the western part of the 
county. 

Blacksville, p. O. 241 ms. from 
R. and 243 N. W. of W., situated 20 
miles N. W. of Morgantown, at the 
junction of Robert's Run and Diui- 
kard creek, 50 ms. from its mouth. 
This creek einpties into the Monon- 
gahela river. This village is locat- 
ed immediately on the line dividing 
the states of Virginia and Pennsyl- 
vania, a part of Blacksville being in 
the counties of Monongalia, Va. and 
a part in Green co. Pa. It contains 
1 1 dwelling houses, 2 mercantile 
stores, 1 common school, 1 temper- 
ance society, 1 tan yard, 1 saddler, 
and 2 blacksmith shops. Dunkard 
creek is navigable to this place, and 
boat building is carried on to some 
extent. The face of the surrounding 
country is uneven, but very fertile, 
producing wheat, rye, corn, oats and 
buckwheat in abundance. Timber 
is plenty, of good quality and in great 



variety. Population 52, including 1 
physician. 

Dunkard Creek, P. O. 247 ms. 
N. W. by W. of W. and 245 from 
R., situated in tlie N. W. part of the 
county, 22 ms. N. W. by W. of Mor- 
gantown 

GrRANviLLE, P. V. 295 ms. from 
R. and 217 N. W. by W. of W., 
situated on Dimkard creek near the 
southern border of Green co. Pa., 
and on the W. side of the Monon- 
galia river, 2 ms. below Morgantown. 
it contains 21 dwelling houses, 1 
house of public worship free for all 
denominations, 1 common school, 3 
mercantile stores, 2 taverns, 2 ware- 
houses, 1 saddler, 1 smith shop, 2 
cabinet makers, 2 boot and shoe fac- 
tories, 1 cooper and 1 chair maker. 
Population, white males 44, females 
56— colored 10— total 110— and 1 
resident physician. 

King's Ferry, P. O. 217 ms. N. 
VV. by W. of W. and 289 from R. 

Mount Lineus, P. O. 240 ms. 
N. W. bv W. of W. and 203 from R. 



WESTERN ViULUNlA— MONONGALIA. 391 

MiDDLETowN. ov Polslky's | MoRGANTOWN, P. V. and 
Mills, P. O. 294 ms. from R. andlfcat of justice, 293 ms. from R. and 



235 N. W. by VV. of W. Middle- 
town was established by act of As- 
sembly January 19th, 1820. It is 



215 N. W. by W. of W. in kit. 39° 
40' N. and long, 2° 50' W. of W. 
C, situated on an elevated level, on 



now a flourishing and healthy village, I the right hank of the Monongahela, 
pleasantl^r situated on the west bank 35 miles below and N. N. E. of 
of the Monongahela, one and a half Clarksburg, and about 60 south of 
miles below the junction of Tygart's I^ittsburg, Pa. Morgantown is a 
Valley, and West Fork rivers, wherej flourishing and wealthy village, hold- 
thcy unite and form the Monongahela ing out incalculable advantages to the 
river, 22 ms. N. of Clarksburg, 18! manufacturer and mechanic. Its 
S. of Morgantown, 90 S. of Pitts- healthy situation on the bank of the 
burg, 50 S. of Brownsville, Pa., and Monongahela river, — the various 
52 ms. E. of the mouth of Fishing productions of the country by which 
creek, and its confluence with the it is surrounded, — the inexhaustible 
Ohio river. It contains 30 dwelling coal mines which abound in almost 
houses, 2 houses of public worship, i every hill, and the rich and innumer- 
(1 Methodist and 1 Presbyterian,) liable iron banks which are every- 
colonization society, 1 tract, 1 tem-j where to be found in this vicinity are 
perance, and 1 humane mission soci-j perhaps not to be surpassed in West- 
ety, and 1 common school, 4 mercan-'ern Virginia. Besides the ordinary 
tile stores, 1 distillery, 2 taverns, 1 J county buildings, it contains 120 
pottery, 3 cabinet makers, 1 chair dwelling houses, 2 houses of public 
maker, 1 wheelwright, 1 wagon; worship, (1 Methodist and 1 Presby- 
maker, I smith shop, 1 gunsmith, 2!terian,) and 1 female academy called 
boot and shoe factories, 1 saddle and! the "Monongalia Academy," corn- 
harness maker, 1 brick maker, 2 hat- prising 2 departments — Classical and 
ter's shops, 2 saw and 2 grist mills.! Preparatory. Its standing fund at 
In the immediate vicinity are 2 card- interest is $10,000,* and it averages 
ing and fulling mills, 4 saw mills, 40 pupils, — size of building 70 feet 
and 2 manufacturing flour mills, front, 40 feet deep, 2^ stories high, a 
The face of the country is somewhat' handsome and spacious brick build- 
hilly, in parts xety much broken.] 

The soil is generally of a rich loamy' *The Trustees of the Monongalia 
clav, producing all "the staples com- A^^'^^'^y ^^'^'''^ incorporated by the legis- 
_. • ^- .. ° -jji A iU (latiirc in 1806. In 18-27 or 8 the leirisla- 

mon m the middle and northern L^,^ p^^^,^! ^„ ,^,f ^^^j,l,^,.^,i,,^ ,^i,,-,^,,. 

states — well adapted to grazing and tees to raise S10,000 by lottery for the 
raising of cattle, horses, hogs, &c.,'f^enefit of this Acadcmv. This sura was 

large numbers of which are raisedi^"''*'^^'^,' ^"^ ^^H""' ''"^"l'^^^' "' 'V*'''l'*'u"'^''l^ 
r °^i . 1 , rill- ni buildins: a laic-e and commodious bnck 

for the eastern markets. 1 his sec-, building. The balance was put out at in- 
tion of country holds out innumera-i terest for the benefit of the academy. In 
ble advantages for the establishment! 1*^30 the Legislature passed another act, 
of manufactories. The forc.sts abound f'''^'^"- '''^. ''"t^^^'^s '" '''I'^^^^^'^^^^'re 
•.u ^i. a . x- i_ J .u .1 1 by lottery lor the same purpose. The 

with the finest timber, and the earth, -heme has been sold, and it i.s expected 
is stored with Iron ore, and the best' the whole ainounc of the above sum of 
stone coal. Large quantities of the|*"20,000 will be raised in a few years; 
latter are shipped from this place for ^y^ich added to the balance left of the 
.1 T-*-... I. J /-<• • • 1 . hrst lottery, will make an endowment 

the Pittsburg and Cmcinnati market,!, „fficient •„, ,(.,„,,,,. ,],^ Monongalia 

and frequently to Ne\v Orleans. Academy a free .school. It is now one of 
Population 200 persons: of whom 2| Oie cheapest and best conducted seniina- 
are physicians i'^'-''^ ^^ '^^ kind in the United States. 



592 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— MONROE. 



ing, pleasantly situated; — 1 private 
school (female,) in which are taught 
the languages, painting, drawing, &c., 
2 temperance societies, (1 male and 1 
female,) 1 Sunday school, 1 bible and 

1 colonization society, 1 poor asj^lum, 
7 mercantile stores, 1 apothecary 
shop, 2 houses of entertainment, 2 
manufacturing flour mills, 1 fullino- 
and dying establishment, 1 windmill 
manufactory, and 1 printing office 
from which is issued a weekly paper, 

2 tan yards, 2 saddlers, 4 boot and 
shoe factories, 3 wheelwrights, and 
chair makers, 5 cabinet makers, 1 
copper and tin plate worker, 1 red 
and stone ware manufactory, 4 tailor 
shops, 3 hat manufactories, 2 gun 
smiths, 1 wagon maker, 3 smith 
shops, and 1 plough manufactory. 
The United States mail passes thro' 
this village 3 times a week. Popu- 
lation 650 persons; of whom four are 
resident attorneys, and three regular 
physicians. The Monongahela river 
is navigable for small steam boats, 



(and sometimes those oi a larger size) 
for six months in the year to this 
place; and if the contemplated im- 
provement goes into operation of 
cleansing the river, and establish- 
ing slack water navigation, by dams 
and locks, this town and county will 
at no distant day rank among the 
most flourishing and prosperous in 
Virginia. 

County Courts are held on the Ath 
Monday in every month; — Qjiarter- 
ly in March, June, August and No- 
I- ember. 

Judge Fry holds his Circuit 
Superior Courts of Law and Chancery 
on the 8^/i of April and September. 

Palatine Hill, P. O. 289 ms. 
from R. and 2 1 1 from W. 

Smitiifield, a small village 10 
miles from Morgantown, on the road 
to Clarksburg. 

White Day, P. O. 283 ms. from 
R. and 205 S. W. by W. of W., situ- 
ated in the eastern part of the county, 
10 ms. E. of Morffantown. 



MONROE, 



Monroe was created by act of Assembly in the year 1799, from a por- 
tion of Greenbrier. It is bounded N. by Greenbrier, — N. E. by Allegha- 
ny, — E. by Bottetonrt, — S. by Giles, and W. by New river, which on that 
side separates it from Giles. Its mean length is 31 ms. ; mean breadth 
18^; and area 614 sq. ms., extending from 37° 22', to 37° 45' N. lat., and 
in long, from 3° 16', to 3° 54' W. of W. C. The general declivity of this 
county is Avestward from the summit of the Alleghany mountain. Green- 
brier river crosses the northwestern angle of the county, and unites with 
New river to form the Great Kanawha, at the point at which GJilcs, Lo- 
gan, Greenbrier and Monroe all meet. The mouth of Greenbrier river 
has been found by actual admeasurement, to be 1,333 ft. above the level of 
the ocean, and the county of Monroe being still higher and declining to 
this point, is probably from 1,400, to 1,700 or 1,800 ft. above the ocean. 
Population in 1820, 6,020, 1830, 7,798. It belongs to the 16th judicial 
circuit and 8th district. Tax paid in 1833, $1,123 94 — in 1834, on lots, 
$56 85— land. $i50] 30—424 slaves, $106 00—3,640 horses, $218 40— 
2! studs, $173 00—11 coaches, $29 50—15 carryalb, $15 00— 7 gigs, 
$3 60. Total $1,280 69. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, 
$395 40— in 1833, $232 24. 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— MONROE. 



393 



TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, «Scc. 



Gwinn's xMill, P. O. 222 ms. fiom 
R. and 277 S. W. by W. of W. 

New Rivlr, p. O. 237 ms. from 
R. and 296 S. VV. by W. of W., situ 



These celebrated waters are situated 
in lat. 37° 30' 25" N., long. 3° 14' 
50 " W. from Washington. They are 
38 ms. from the White Sulphur, the 



ated in the western part of the county, sam.e distance from the Sweet Springs, 
26 ms. westward of U/iio)i,the Cou/i- and 16 ms. from the Salt Sulphur. 
fy Seat, on the margin of New river, The valley in which they rise is 
10 ms. above the mouth of Greenbrier formed by two mountains, running 
river, and 5 below Indian creek, on from N. E. to S. W. They receive 
the main post road leading from Giles' their name from a deposite of a rich 
C. H. to Ivanawha Salt Works. — Icriinson color. This deposite rests on 
Though called a village it is simplyjanother of white, and is itself of a 
a post office. The face of the sur-jgclatinous consistence. The water 
rounding country is mountainous, thelissucs from various fissures, in a stra- 
bottoms are narrow, but very fertile,;tum of soft slate stone, within a space 
producing in abundance, wheat, rye.Jof about 24 by 8 ft. Heretofore, they 
Indian corn, oats, hemp, flax and; were but partially collected, three- 
garden stuffs. The principal staples fourths having been permitted to 
are peltry, hemp and' Indian corn: forjwaste; but the present proprietor hav- 
the latter a ready market is found atjing, in the autumn of 1833, opened 
all seasons at ' the Red Sulphur the native stone, and obtained a vast 
Springs, distant 10 ms. Emigration [increase in the quantitj'-, has collected 
to this neighborhood within the lastjthem in two fountains of v%-hite mar- 
few years, has been considerable. ble. The temperature of the water 
Peterstown, p. O. 249 ms. fromiis preceisely 54 deg. of Fahr.; it is 
R. and 294 S. W. by W. of W. This peculiarly pleasant, though so strong- 
village was settled, some 40 years ly impregnated with sulphuretted hy- 
sincchy Christian Peters, homwhomldrogcB. Hundreds of persons now 
it derives its name, and established asjliving can bear testimony to its extra- 
a town by act of Assembly in Janua- ordinary efTects in the cure ofpulmo- 
ry 4th, 1804. It is situated on a nary disease: it is therefore supcrflu- 
stream called Rich creek, which takcs|ous to offer fruther evidence of its va- 
its rise in Peters' laountaiu, about 7jlue in checking that frightful enemy 
nis- above, and passing through the of mankind. We may refer the read- 
town, discharges its waters, 2 n\s. be- er to the work of Dr. Bell on baths 
low into New river, at the head of and mineral \A'ater?, and to a pam- 



the Great Kanawha, affording one of 
the most advantageous sites for water 
power in western Virginia. It con- 
tains 20 neat dwelling houses. 1 com- 
mon school, I saw mill, 1 grist mill, 
and a wool carding machine, 1 mer- 
cantile store, 3 tanj^ards, 1 saddler, ij 

bla<-ksmilh, 1 gun smith, 1 tailor and| * A short time before the illness of the 

i vva^ron maker. Surrounded by a '^'^ ^r. Wirt, the proprietor received 

■ 1,^1 ■ T- J- 1 from bim a letter respecting these waters, 

wild and romantic country, abounding and the pamphlet above mentioned, which 



phlet lately puhVished on" Consi/mp- 
iionand the Red Sulphur waters," by 
Dr. Huntt, a distinguished physician 
of Washington City. Invalids are 
earnestly recommended to read this 
last little work.* It remains that we 



with every description of game; the 
pursuit ol which, constitutes the prin- 
cipal sport of the inhabitants. 

Heu Sulphur Si-king.s P. V. 240 
ms. from R. and 282 from VV. 
50 



we here beg leave to subjoin. 

WashAngton., Feb. 8, 1834. 
Dkar Sir, — 

In an,swer to your letter of the '29th ult. 
I have inu( h plea:-nrc in staling, that I 
was highly gratified by my excursion to 



394 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— MONROJg. 



should notice its effects in other dis- 
eases, and here we must express our 
astonishment, that physicians have 
turned to so little account the know- 
ledge of its powers in pulmonary com- 
plaints, and in the reduction of arte- 
rial action. There can be little doubt 
that the remarkable influence it exerts 
in pulmonary complaints is mainly 
dependant on its sedative quality, and 
it seems to us strange how it has been 
overlooked by medical men, that so 
important a curative principle, could 
not have been limited to one disease. 

The wrher hazards the opinion 
that it will be found no less efficica- 
cious, in calming nervous irritability, 
than in reducing arterial action. He 
has experienced this effect in his own 
person, and has witnessed it in others. 
One of the most remarkable cases of 
Neuralgia we have ever witnessed 
was that of Henry Brown, esq. of 
Lynchburg. He had been afflicted 
many years in an extraordinary de- 
gree, had visited Europe, consulted 
the most eminent physicians, tried all 
the other mineral waters in this re- 
gion, but with little benefit. Last 
August he visitted these Springs, and 
was so much pleased \vith their ef- 
fects, that he remained until the 1st of 
January. 

He regretted not having visited the 
Red Sulphur some years sooner, and 
believed, if he had, that in all proba- 
bility, he would have been entirely 
restored to health. 



the Red Sulphur Springs last season. It 
was my first visit to that place, and I was 
so muchpleased with the water, the enter- 
tainment and the scenery, that my stay 
was protracted, with enjoyment, for nearly 
three weeks. 

I send you a pamphlet Just published in 
this city, on the virtues of^ these waters, by 
which you will see that they are rising in- 
to deserved celebrity. The author Doctor 
Huntt is a distinguished physician here 
whose opinions are entitled to the utmost 
respect and confidence, and I hope he will 
be instrumental in extending the knou-lcd.ge 
of these valuable waters. 

With every wish for your success, I re- 
mained dear sir, very respectfully and tru- 
ly, yours, WM. WIRT. 



That these waters are most singu- 
larly efficacious in vterine diseases, 
and in restoring the health of delicate 
females is a fact too well established, 
to admit of controversy, and one which 
we deem it peculiarly important 
should be known, as these are proba- 
bly the only mineral waters in Vir- 
ginia that are suited to such cases. 

The writer is of opinion, that the 
tonic property of these waters is con- 
sequent on their sedative property. — 
They do not belong to the ordinary 
class of tonics; they do indeed, invig- 
orate the stomach in a remarkable 
manner- — a fact which is clearly pro- 
ved by the rapid increase of Aveight, 
many persons gaining from one to two 
pounds a day for several successive 
days; but Avhilst they effect this, they 
are most usually producing one or 
two evacuations a day, and acting free- 
ly on the kidneys and skin. From 
what has been said, it may be per- 
ceived that we believe the water to be 
directly sedative, indirectly tonic, al- 
terative, diuretic and diaphoretic. 

It has been found efficacious in all 
forms of consumption, scrofula, jaun- 
dice and other bilious affections, chro- 
nic dysentery and diarrhea, dyspep- 
sia, diseases of the uterus, chronic 
rheumatism and gout, dropsy, gravel, 
neuralgia, tremor, syphilis, scurvy, 
crysipetas, tetter, ring- worm and itch; 
and it has long been celebrated as a 
vermifuge. That there are many 
other diseases, to which its medicinal 
properties are applicable, there can be 
little doubt, and we can state one fact 
highly important, which is, that we 
have never known it to do a positive 
injury. If the patient has gone away 
in a worse condition, it is because the 
disease had progressed so far as to be 
incurable, or the failure may be clear- 
ly traced to some imprudence on his 
ovv-n part. It is a lamentable fact that 
many of the persons who visit the 
Virginia Mineral Springs are alto- 
gether ignorant of their properties, 
and consequently are tempted to make 
experiments on themselves. Some 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— MONROE. 



395^ 



think that tlip greatest good is to be 
derived from the greatest quantit}', 
and therefore use them immoderately- 
Others thinlc that, as charit^y liides a 
multiliide of sins; so the Avater justi- 
fies a muUitude of indulgencies. They 
entirely lose sight of the object of 
which they were in pursuit, after 
having made some progress towards 
its attainment; and if, after indulging 
their appetites, or being guilty of 
some other imprudence, they relapse 
to their former condition, they imme- 
diately blame the water. The writer 
has had some e.xperience in the use of 
the Red Sulphur water, and does not 
hesitate to say, that in his opinion, its 
efficacy is impeded hy all stimulants. 
Ardent spirits, strong coffee, strong 
tea, meat diet, especially at night, 
should be avoided. The patient 
should live on a strictly vegetable 
diet. Milk, maple molasses, cold 
bread, buckwheat cakes, rice, rye 
mush, bread-pudding, stewed peaches 
and various other articles of a similar 
character are best suited to the action 
of the Avater. These combined with 
its judicious use, moderate exercise, 
and a calm mind, atiord the best pros- 
pect of a cure. We are of opinion 
that most persons should begin with 
six or eight tumblers a day, and gra- 
dually increase to" twelve. We be- 
lieve this quantity to be sufficient, ex- 
■ cept where it is necessary to act more 
immediately on the kidneys. In this 
case we would advise a light supper, 
and three tumblers of water after get- 
ting into bed. Walking exercise is 
of vast importance in making the wa- 
ter alterative. We would therefore 
strongly recommend early rising, and 
as much exorcise as can be taken 
without fatigue. There is frequently 
a fog in the morning, in these moun- 
tain regions, but nothing is to be ap- 
prehended from it. It is in fact, al- 
most invariably, the forerunner of -a 
fine day. It is highly important to 
invalids to lay aside the use of all me- 
dicines if possible, but more particu- 



larly the use of opium. The latter 
interferes very much with the action 
of the water. It may houseful at the 
commencent, to prepare the system 
by two or three blue pills, and when 
the water becomes altogether diuretic, 
it will be proper to turn it on the bow- 
els, which may be done by a little ep- 
som salts or some other simple me- 
dicine. When persons laboring un- 
der diarrhea use the water it some- 
times happens, that the evacuations 
become more frequent and acrid, for 
two or three days. 

Patients in this situation sometimes 
think that the water is doing them in- 
jury, when, in fact, it is expelling the 
exciting cause. To such persons we 
recommend perseverance and caution 
in diet. There is a singular efTect 
produced by this water which we 
have never known produced by any 
other mineral water. About the 10th 
daj% usually, but sometimes much 
earlier, the patient is taken with a 
sensation of fullness in the head; he 
feels indolent and sleep}'', and Ave, 
have even known the pulse to get be- 
low the natural standard. We have 
never seen this symptom productive 
of any injury; on the contrary expe- 
rience has proved that it is an uner- 
ring omen of amendment. Whenev- 
er we hear of this symptom we have 
strong hopes, that the patient is in a 
fair way of recovering his health, if 
he will do justice to himself by perse- 
verance and prudence. Visiters to 
these Avaters frequently expect mira- 
cles. They suppose that chronic dis- 
eases of several years standing should 
be eradicated in a fcAv days. We 
have, indeed, sometimes seen AA-onder- 
ful changes take place in a few days, 
but if a iiian laboring under an obsti- 
nate disease desire permanent benefit, 
he must give the Avater time to expel 
from his system every A'estige of the 
exciting cause, 

Improvements. 
The proprietor of this property 
cajne.in.to possession on the 1st. of 



396 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— MONROE. 



October, 1832. He has ever since 
been busily engaged in erecting 
buildings and making other improve- 
ments for the accommodation of visi- 
tors. In addition to the spacious ho- 
tel erected last year, he is now erect- 
ing a range of one story buildings 
198 by 24 ft., and a two story build- 
ing with a double portico, 112 by 30 
ft. All the old cabins will be fitted 
up in a more comfortable manner. 
Cold and warm baths will be provid- 
ed. Extensive stables and carriage 
houses are erected and every thing 
liberally provided which can promote 
the comfort of the guests. The ac- 
commodation will be ample for 250 
persons. The establishment is con- 
ducted by Major Wm. Vass. A tri- 



the "White Sulphur, 22 from the Sweet 
Springs, 16 from the Red Sulphur, 
and 60 from the Hot and Warm 
Springs. — It is generally acknowledg- 
ed, that this quarter of the country 
has its full share ©f medicinal waters, 
and in greater variety than any other 
country of the same extent. The cli- 
mate, too, during the warmer months, 
is the best in North America. The 
thermometer in the months of June, 
July and August, ranges in the day 
lime from 65° to 80°, and the nights 
are so refreshingly cool as to permit 
the delicate to sleep under one, two 
and three blankets. To judge from 
one's feelings, the barometer would 
stand very low in this favored country, 
and show an uncommonly light air, 



weekly line of stages is now running but they are scarce in this portion oi 



through this place to Newbern m 
Montgomery county, where it con- 
nects with the southwestern line. 
The roads in this neighborhood are 
greatly improved, and two companies 
are incorporated to make a turnpike 
road from the White Sulphur, to this 
place, by way of the Salt Sulphur. 
It is expected that the mail will ar- 
rive here daily, next season, in stages. 

Red Sulphur Skminary. — This In- 
stitution was opened on the 15th 
April last. The studies at present 
pursued are the Ancient Languages 
and Mathematics. The number of 
scholars is limited to thirty. When 
that number is engaged a teacher of 
Modern Languages will be employed 
The advantages possessed by this 
Institution will readily suggest them 
selves to the minds of those who have 
boys to educate. It has the undivid 
ed attention of Wm Burke as prin 
cipal, and James Macauly as assis- 
tant. 

Salt Sulphur Springs, P. O 
216 ms. from R. and 270 from W, 
The mineral waters known by the 
name of tlie Salt Sulphur Springs 
rise in Western Virginia, in about 
37i° N. lat. and 5° long. W. of Phi 
ladelphia — are distant 25 miles from 



the state, and there happens to be none 
at the Salt Sulphur Springs at this 
time. Here, under the blessings of 
providence, "the blind, the lame and 
the halt" may venture to hope for re- 
lief The fine, refreshing climate, the 
cheerful company, passing and repass- 
ing from spring to spring — and such 
a variety of medicinal waters, as the 
Avorld no where else affords — added 
to the novelty of mountain scenery, it 
seems to aftbrd sufficient inducement 
to entice both the young and old, — 
the robust, to seelc new pleasures, and 
the infirm man, bowed down by dis- 
ease, and weary of life, to alleviate 
his sufferings, and endeavor to repair 
his shattered constitution. The con- 
trast between winter and summer in 
this region, is, as may be supposed, 
very great. During the cold months, 
as the country is thinly inhabited, all 
appears desolate and dreary — the hills 
are covered with snow, and the streams 
Avith ice — as soon, though, as the sea- 
son well justifies it, the prospect be- 
comes more inviting. — About the lat- 
ter part of May, and the first of June, 
the poor victims of disease, from north 
and south, east and west, are seen in 
these places to try the healing powers 
of these natural medicines. Soon af- 



WESTERN VIRC4IN1A— MONROE. 



397 



ter, the throng is much increased l)y 
daily arrivals of gay and fashionable 
people, looking- lor amusement or a 
more genial summer climate than the 
one they reside in. This time of ani- 
mation continues until the middle of 
September, when the visitors mostly 
leave for their homes. — A few, how- 
ever, frequently remain much later — 
these, though, are real sufferers, who 
seem unwilling to leave as long as 
there is any thing to hope for. There 
are two fountains at the Salt Sulphur, 
each giving out a very difl'ei"ent wa- 
ter. — ^The first one u.sed is distinguish- 
ed as the Salt Sulphur, and is orna- 
mented with an appropriate building 
resting on twelve large pillars. — The 
other spring rises about GUU yards up 
the ravine, and was discovered about 
a year since in an attempt to convey 
some sulphur water in pipes to a bath 
house. — The laborer in blowing a 
rock to aftbrd a way for the pipes, 
opened the spring to his great alarm, 
as he thought he had struck on the 
source of the spring from which he 
was conducting the water. The tem- 
perature of the two springs is the same 
at all seasons of the year (50-^^ fah'r,) 
and both of them contain a portion of 
sulphuretted hydrogen. — The Salt 
Sulphur, too, has soda, it is believed, 
in an uncombined state — This perhaps 
is the mineral that acts so happily as 
a corrective of acid and the oily eruc- 
tation that attends a diseased stomach. 
The different waters give a copious 
precipitate by first adding to them 
salt of iron, and then precipitating it 
with carburet of potass — of course the 
precipitate has been considered a pre- 
cipitateof iron. — If any reliancecanbe 
placed on this indication, the newly 
discovered fountain will have the rare 
property of reducing a quick pulse as 
some few other waters are said to do. 
The more active ingredients in the 
Salt Sulphur might interfere with those 
invalids who would wish to reduce a 
quick circulation, but with the newly 
discovered spring, no ditliculty of the 



kind need be apprehended. — On an 
examination of the country around 
the waters, the limestone will be found 
frequently to contain magnesia — the 
formations, too, are all secondary. — 
From this circumstance, in all proba- 
bility, these waters contain magnesia 
and the newly discovered mineral call- 
ed sodine, so generally found in ma- 
rine productions. — The proprietors of 
these waters have themselves a high 
confidence in them and are becoming 
more and more solicitous for a correct 
analasis of them, which will secure 
to them their entire value and nothing 
more. 

This spring is celebrated among all 
the visiters to the springs for the ex- 
cellence of the accommodations, and 
the polite and obliging dispositions of 
the proprietors. These buildings are 
very extensive, and still increasing — 
in the season of 1835, they will pro- 
bably be able to accommodate SOU 
persons. 

Sweet Springs, P. O. 204 ms. 
VV. of R. and 263 S. W. by W. of 
W. This most ancient of any of the 
watering places in Va., is situated in 
the county of Monroe, in a fertile 
valley of the same name. They are 
distant 29 ms. from Fincastle, 22 from 
the Salt Sulphur, 37 from the Red, 
and 18 from the White Sulphur 
Springs. The spring, Avhich is so 
copious, as to turn a mill at the dis- 
tance of 200 yards from the source, 
rises at the lower end of a small hol- 
low or valley, from which the ground 
gradually swells on either side. The 
houses and cabins, of which a large 
number have been erected within a 
year or two, are sufficient to accom- 
date from 250 to 300 persons. By 
far the greater number of these ca- 
bins are built in rows adjoining each 
other, though some are delightfully 
situated among the groves of oak 
trees. There are two perennial rivu- 
lets from the mountains, meandering 
through the dale, which not only adds 
materially to tiie comfort of the visi- 



398 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— MONROE. 



ters and the cleanliness of the place,! between the two in other respects as 
but refreshes, enlivens and beautifies well in the abundant evolution of 



the surrounding prospect. Nature 
indeed has not been sparing in em- 
bellishing with her choicest beauties 
this enchanting spot. Every object 
that can gratify the eye or please the 
fancy is here pourtrayed in its bright- 
est colors. The wild scenery of the 
mountains with the gentle landscapes, 
the shady groves and arbors, care- 
lessly scattered over this delightful 
scene, invite the young, and the gay, 
and the admirers of nature to con- 
template her under these charming 
and picturesque aspects. 

The spirit of public improvement 
which has recently so diffused itself 
among the people of Western Vir- 
ginia, has greatly fecilitated the 
means of access and conveyance to 
the different watering places. There 
is a daily line of stages in the summer 
running from Fincastle to the Sweet 
Springs and also from the Salt and 
White Sulphur. The fine roads, de- 
lightful climate and beautiful scenery 
which is here met with, is a sufficient 
inducement aside from other consid- 
erations, to the low landers for an an- 
nual ramble to the mountains. 

The following description of the 
jnedicina' properties of the Sweet 
Spring waters is taken from Dr. Bell 
on Baths and Mineral waters. "The 
water of the spring rises into a large 
cylindrical reservoir, from opposite 
sides of which it flows out by small 
pipes: one conveying water to the 
bath for the men, the other to that for 
the ladies. The men's bath is of a 
quadrangular form surrounded by a 
wall, and open at the top, it is of tol- 
erable extent and clear, the bottom 
being of gravel and the water con- 
stantly flowing in and as constantly 
passing out, alter it reaches a certain 
height. The temperature of the 
Spring 73° fahr., the same as that 
which in England, by a strange blun- 
der, is called Bristol Hot Wells. 
There is a considerable resemblance 



arbonic acid gas as in the earthy and 
saline matters held in solution. In 
the Virginia Spring however iron has 
been detected, Avhereas the Bristol 
Hot Wells has none in its composi- 
tion. If we can rely on the rather 
crude analysis of Bouelle, one quart 
of the water of the Sweet Spring con- 
tains — 
Saline substances in 

general, 12 to 15 grains. 
Earthy substances, 18 to 24 " 
Iron ^ to 1 " 

The saline substances are sulphate 
of magnesia, muriate of soda, and 
muriate of line with a little sulphate 
of lime. The earthy substances con- 
sisted of sulphate of lime, a small 
portion of carbonates of magnesia 
and lime, with a small portion of sili- 
cious earth. The deposition of cal- 
carious matter from the waters as they 
flow down the meadows is so great 
as to form a kind of drain of consi- 
derable height and thickness at about 
a mile on the road to the White Sul- 
phur Springs. 

Few mineral waters have acquired 
such fashionable and well merited 
celebrity as the Sweet Springs. The 
name is calculated to convey errone- 
ous impressions of their taste, which 
is like a solution of a small quantity 
of a calcareous or magnesian carbo- 
nate. The excess of carbonic acid 
o-ives, however, the waters a brisk- 
ness, productive of a very different 
effect on the palate from what an im- 
perfect mixture of the earth's would 
produce. The first effects of this 
water due to its temperature and gase- 
ous contents, when drunk, are a feel- 
ing of warmth at the stomach, with a 
sensation of fulness at the head and 
some giddiness. Taken at stated in- 
tervals in moderate quantity, it will 
produce a moisture on the skin and 
increase the flow of urine. If the 
stomach be in a good state it gives 
additional appetite and imparts fresh 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— MONROE. 



399 



vig;or to the system. The Sweet 
Spring water is serviceable in the va- 
rieties of dyspepsia accompanied by 
gastrodynia or spasm, with pains oc- 
curring at irregular intervals and 
heart burn — when the extremities arc 
cold and the skin torpid. In secon- 
dary debility of the digestive canal, 
from the exhausting heat of summer, 
or in chronic diarrhea and dysentery 
without fever or not sustained by he- 
patic inflammation, much good will 
be produced by the internal use of 
these waters. 

If much gastric irritation or cvi 
dent phlogosis of the liver be present 
with a parched skin and other phe 
nomena of fever: it will be better to 
premise one or two small bleedings, 
followed by the use of a blue pill at 
night, and a tumbler full or two of the 
water, to which has been added a tea- 
spoon full of epsom salts, or twice the 
quantity of calcined magnesia early 
in the morning. 

The harassing cough to which 
young persons are occasionally sub- 
ject and which often has its origin in 
an enfeebled slate of the stomach, or 
in scrofulous habits from enlargement 
of the bronchial glands, as also the 
tussis ho7iioralis of old people, will 
all be materially benefitted by the use 
of these waters. The relief afforded 
in such cases as these has usually 
given Bristol Hot Wells its reputation 
in the cure of pulmonary consump- 
tion. 

Females of what are termed a 
nervous habit of body, who have been 
enfeebled by protracted confinement, 
or long nursing their children, de- 
privation of exercise, and of the en- 
joyment of fresh air, and Avho have 
in addition to these causes of dys 



pear after the restoration of the diges- 
tive system to its former energy. 

As we should have inferred from 
the excess of carbonic acid and the 
presence of the earthy carbonates in 
the water, it is useful in calculous 
and nephritic complaints. 

In acute rheumatism the waters 
with the addition of neutral salts and 
the use of the bath will be of service. 
But in chronic rheumatism, in which 
there have been for a long time stiff- 
ness of the joints and cold skin, our 
chief reliance must be placed on the 
baths of- the Warm and Hot Springs, 
by or attenuated with the use of the 
sulphur spring water. 

The usual times for drinking the 
waters of the Sweet Springs are ear- 
ly in the morning, between 12 and 1 
o'clock or some little time before din- 
ner, and in the evening at tea time. 
This later period is an improper one 
except the invalid suffer at the time 
from spasm of the stomach, or expe- 
rience a morbid and gnawing sensa- 
tion of hunger. 

The use of the bath at the Sweet 
Springs is adapted to a large number 
of cases, viz., in which there is a 
morbid or irregular heat of the sur- 
face with some febrile action. The 
first sensation or immersion in the 
water is a slight shock, after which 
the feeling of coolness is refreshing 
and rather agreeable. We have less 
hesitation in bathing in water of tepid 
temperature, as this almost is, than 
in a cold bath. For common hygie- 
nii purposes it is quite safe and reviv- 
ing; and in disease may be used with 
considerable freedom, but not to the 
neglect of those precautions given 
when I spoke of the cold bath. A 
more efficacious mode of applying 



pepsia, made excessive use of tea and this water to the skin would be by 
coffee, spices and condiments, Avill douche — the stream being directed 
find their strength and heaUh restored on the region in which the irritation 
by drinking these Avaters as well as was fixed, and Avhenever there was 
bathing in the manner to be soon augmented heat and fixed pain as 
mentioned. Irregularity in the ute-jover the stomach, or liver, or abdo- 
rine functions will often soon disap- men generally above the pubis or on 



400 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— MONTGOMERY. 



the loins and sacrum, also to the 
joints Avhen the violence of inflam- 
mation has not yet subsided nor pass- 
ed entirely into the chronic state. If 
the irritation of the stomach forbids 
the drinking- of the water, douching 
of the epigastrium would form a good 
preparative for its use in this way. 
Lumbago with some evening fever 
chloroies or floar albus, with heat 
and pain at the loins, would all be 
benefitted by douching this part. 

The freedom and advantage with 
which the bath at the Sweet Springs 
has been used by aged persons, is evi- 
dence of its general safety. The 
chief points to be attended to are, that 
the skin shall not be moist or cold 
with perspiration, nor that there shall 
be general chill nor the languor 
that follows excessive muscular ac- 
tion: the stomach also should be 
nearly empty, or at least not actively 
engaged in its work of digestion. 
The duration of a bath is usually 
too long; from five to fifteen minutes 
will embrace periods adapted to all 
conditions. Even the more robust 
ought not to stay in longer than the 
last mentioned time. 

UNION, P. V. and scat of justice, 
267 rns. S. W. by W. of W. C, and 
208 W. of R., in lat. 37° 34' N. and 



long. 3^ 32' W. of W. C.,— situated 
northeastward from Peters' movmtain 
in Greenbrier Valley, about 40 ms. a 
little W. of N. from Christiansburg. 
The town of Union is a beautiful lit- 
tle village, in a pleasant and healthy 
situation. The country around for 
many miles is a rich and fertile soil, 
particularly adapted to grass. A vast 
number of cattle, horses, hogs, &,c. 
are annually fattened in this neigh- 
borhood. It contains besides the usu- 
al county buildings, Avhich are hand- 
some, 45 dwelling hou.ses, 2 houses 
of public worship, (1 Methodist and 
1 Presbyterian,) 1 common school, 2 
hou.ses of public entertainment, 3 
mercantile stoi'es, 2 tan yards, and 3 
saddlers. The other mechanics are, 
tailors, boot and shoe makers, black- 
smiths, wagon makers, brick layers, 
&/C. &c. This court house is situa- 
ted 15 ms. west of the top of the Al- 
leghany mountain. Population 400 
persons ; of whom 1 is a resident at- 
torney, and 2 are regular physicians. 

County Courts are held on the 2d 
Monday in every month; — Quarter- 
ly in March, June, August and No- 
vember. 

Judge Brown holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the \itii of May and October. 



M0NTG03IERY. 



MoriTGOiMEUY was created by the Legislature in the year 1777, and 
formed from Finca.stle county. It is bounded N. and N. W. by Giles, — 
W. and S. W. by Wythe, — S. by the new county of Floyd,— and W. by 
Franklin. As we are unacquainted with the precise dmncnsions of Floyd, 
we shall be compelled to give the dimensions of Montgomery as it stood 
before the separation. Its mean length was 34 miles, mean breadth 32 ; 
and area 1089 sq. ms. Extending in lat. from 30° 43' to 37° 24' N. and 
in long. 3° 04' to 3° 50' W. of W. C The northern portion of this coun- 
ty gives rise to the Roanoke and to Craig's creek, Avhich flow in a N. W. 
direction into Botetourt. The county occupies a portion of the high pla- 
teau or table land between the waters which flow into the Atlantic, and 
those which flow towards the Mississippi. The mouth of Sinking creek, 
which enters the Great Kanawha, in Giles, county, at the western foot of 
Walker's mountain, of cour.':;c below any part of Montgomery, is found, 



WESTERN VlHGl.MA— MONTGOMERY. 



401 



from actual ineasurement, elevated 1,585 feet above tide water in James 
river. The hig-liest spring- tributary to Sinking creek was found to be 2509; 
we may, therefore, very safely assume as the general elevation of Mont- 
gomery from 1,800 to 2,500; or a mean exceeding 2,100 feet, or an equi- 
valent to more than five degrees of latitude. If then we assume 37° as 
the mean lat. of Montgomery county, the real winter climate will be simi- 
lar to that on the Atlantic coast in N. lat. 42°. Besides the mountains, the 
whole fice of this county i.s broken and rocky, yet though so rough and 
elevated, the streams are bordered wath excellent soil. 

Population of Montgomery as it stood in 1820, 8,733,-1830, 12,306. 
It belongs to the 6th judicial circuit and 8th district. Tax paid in 1833, 
$1280 27— m 1834 on lot.s, ^92 19— land, $593 77— 975 slaves, $243 75 
—3233 horses, $196 98—16 studs, $112 00^10 coaches, $28 25—19 
carryalls, $19 00— 7 gigs, $3 75. Total, $1,289 69. Expended in edu- 
cating poor children in 1332, $207 44— in 1833, $194 28.' 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES. &c- 



Blacx-sburg. p. O. 215 ms. W. of 
R. and 290 S. VV. by W. of W., situ- 
ated in the northern part of the coun- 
ty, 9 ms. northwardly from Chris- 
tiansburg. It contains 34 dwelling 
houses, 2 houses of public worship, 
(1 Mfthodist and 1 Presbyterian,) 1 
common school, 1 sabbath school, and 
1 temperance society, 3 tan yards, 2 
saddlers, and various other mechan- 
ics. Population 150 persons; ofi 
whom I is a physician. i 

CHRLSTIANSBURG. P. V. and 
cov.nty ycat, 206 ms. S. W. of R. 
and 282 S. W. of W. in lat. 37° 08' 
N, and long. 3° 24' W. of W. It 
contains besides the usual county 
buildings, 45 dwelling houses, 2 
houses of public worship, (1 Metho- 
dist and 1 Presbyterian,) 2 common 
schools, 5 miscellaneous stores, 3 be- 
nevolent societies, 2 lanyards, and 2 
saddlers. The principal mechanics 
are 3 boot and shoe factories. 4 tai-, 
lors, 4 hatters, 1 cabinet maker, 4 tin' 
plate workers. Population, whites 
230 persons; of whom 5 are resident 
attorneys, and 3 regular physician? — 
colored 105 — total 335. 

Comity Courts are held on the \st 
Mnnday in every month: — Quarter- 
ly in March, Junx, August and No- 
V ember. 

Judge Brown hold;? his Circuii 
51 



Superior Court of Law^ and Chance- 
ry on the 22d of May and October. 
" FoTiJERiNOAV, P. O. 195 ms, from 
R. and 270 S. W. by W- of W. 

GooDsoN, p. O. 221 ms. W. of R. 
and 299 S W. of ¥/. 

La Fayette, P. O. 190 ms. S. 
W. of R. and 256 from W.. situated 
in the N. E. pari of the county, near 
the foot of the Alleghany mountain 
on the head w^aters of the Roanoke, 
and at the junction of the North and 
South Forks, — 33 ms. from Fincaslle, 
and 7 fi^pm theline.dividing the coun- 
ties of Montgomery and Botetourt. 
This village v/as established 8 or 10 
j'-ears since, and is now lapidly pro- 
gressing, most of its improvements 
having been made within the last 2 
years. It contains 43 dwelling bouses, 
1 house of public worship, (Metho- 
dist,) 2 miscellaneous stores, 1 tavern. 
1 extensive manufacturing flour mill. 
1 lanyard, 1 cooper's shop, 1 boot and 
shoe factory, 4 smith shops, and vari- 
ous other mechanics. The soil of 
its vicinity is productive of Indian 
corn, wheat and tobacco. Population 
1 103 persons; of whom 1 is a regular 
physician. 

i jNewberx, p. V. 225 ms. from R. 
and 301 S. W. by W. of W., situated 
in the western part of the county, 16 
)ns. S. W. of Christian.^burir. and 7 



402 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— MORGAN. 



W. of English's Ferry, on the main 
western stage road from Bakimore to 
Nashville, Tenn. Its location is high 
and airy, giving a fine view of the 
adjacent valleys and neighboring 
mountains, which present an interest- 
ing and romantic scene, and fill the 
traveller's mind with admiration. It 
contains 100 houses, 1 house of pub- 
lic worship, (Methodist,) and 1 (Pres- 
byterian) in the immediate vicinity, 
(used as a school house,) 5 mercan- 
tile stores, 2 taverns, 2 saddlers, 1 tan 
yard, 2 boot and shoe makers, 2 wa- 
gon makers, 2 tailors, 2 blacksmith 
shops, 1 silversmith and jeweller, and 
1 milliner and mantua maker. Popu- 
lation 190 persons; of whom 2 are 
physicians. The face of the country 
to the N. and N. W. is generally 
level to the valley of Back creek, a 
distance of 7 or 8 ms. in width, and 
between 1-5 and 20 in length, produc- 
tive of every kind of grain, but natu- 
rally adapted to grass. The S. and 
S. E- is diversified and uneven, tho' 



the soil is of good quality and pro- 
duces well. The staple commodities 
are beef, pork, grain, hemp, flax, and 
butter. On the north bank of New 
river, 14 ms. from Newbern, there is 
a bluff called the Glass Windows, (a 
great natural curiosity,) presenting 
to the spectator as magnificent a scene 
as the Natural Bridge in Rockbridge 
county. It is a perpendicular rock 
500 feet in height, running parallel 
with the river about 3^ of a mile, in 
which there are a number of coves, 
that produce saltpetre in abundance. 
Another natural curiosity is Peak 
Knob, about 3 ms. W. of Newbern. 
It somewhat resembles the Peaks of 
Otter, and rises between 800 and iOOO 
feet above the bed of Peak creek, and 
presents the inhabitants with a de- 
lightful landscape to a very consider- 
able distance. Around the foot o^ 
Peak Knob and on the banks of Peak 
creek, are a number of mineral 
springs, the medicinal qualities of 
which are said to be considerable 



MORGAN. 

Morgan was created by act of Assembly in 1820, from a portion oi 
Hampshire and Berkley counties. It is bounded N. by the Potomac, 
which separates it from Washington county of Maryland, — E. by Berk- 
ley, — S. by Frederick and Hampshire, — and W. by the Potomac, separat- 
ing it from Alleghany county of Maryland. Its mean length is 22 miles, 
mean breadth 16; and area 352 sq. ms. It e.xtends in lat. from 39° 22' to 
39° 40' N. and in long, from 0° 58' to 1° 25' W. of W. C. The general 
slope of this county is N. N. E. in the direction of its two principal 
streams, the Great Cacapon and Sleepy creek. The surface is much 
broken and rocky, but there is much good soil upon the streams. 

Population in 1820, 2,500—1830, 2,094. It belongs to the 13th judi- 
cial circuit, and 7th district. Tax paid in 1833, $561 20— in 1834 on 
lots, $46 61— land, $393 72—91 slaves, $22 75—846 horses, $50 76 
—2 studs, $20 00—1 coach, $3 00. Total $536 84. Expended in edu- 
cating poor children m 1832, $162 75--in 1833, $165 83. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 

BATH, or Berkley Springs, P.! W., situated 8 ms. S. S. W. of Han- 
O. and seat of justice, 186 ms. N. N.'cocktown, Md., and 45 ms. N. W. by 
W. of R. and 93 N. W. by W. of; W. of Harper's Ferry. Mr. JefTer- 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— NICFIOLAS 



403 



son in Notes on Virginia, thus speaks 
of this watering place. "On Potomac 
river in Berkley co., above the North 
mountain are medicinal springs. In 
former ye^rs they were much more 
frequented than those of Augusta or 
any other. Their powers however 
are less, the waters weakly mineral- 
ised and scarcely warm. They were 
more visited, because situated in a 
fertile, plentiful, and populous coun- 
try, better provided with accommo- 
dation , were always so far from the 
Indians, and nearest to the populous 
states." — The waters of Bath are now 
held in high repute, whatever opin- 



ion might have been entertained of 
them in the time at which Mr. Jeffer- 
son wrote his Notes on Virginia; 
and hundreds flock to them every 
season from Maryland and Pennsyl- 
vania. 

County Courts are held on the \th 
Mo7ulay in every month; — Quarter- 
ly in March, June, September and 
November. 

Judge Pakrer holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the 25th of April, and Aug-ust. 

Oakland, P. O. 17-5 ms. from R. 
and 96 N. W. by W. of W, 



NICHOLAS. 



Nicholas was created by act of Assembly in the year 1818, from a por- 
tion of the counties of Kanawha, Greenbrier, and Randolph. It is bound- 
ed N. by Lewis,— N E. by Randolph, — E. by Pocahontas,— S. E. and S. 
by Greenbrier, — S. W. by Fayette, — and W. by Kanawha. Its mean 
length is 44 miles, m3an breadth 32i; and area 1,43 1 sq. ms. It extends 
in lat. Irom 38° 04' to 38° 43', and 'in long, from 3° 18' to 4° 12' W. of 
VV. C. Its greatest declination is to the souhwest, in the direction of its 
two principal streams, Gauley river and Elk river. The former flowing 
through the southern portion of the county, the latter through the northern. 
Gauley is a rough stream, admitting of but little navigation. Elk on the 
contrary is a beautiful flowing stream, navigable almost to its source, and 
susceptible of being made at a small expense, the channel of valuable trade. 
It is well stocked with fine fresh water fish, some of which are of enor- 
mous size. The soil and climate of this county present great variety; be- 
ing in some parts very warm and very fertile, in others cold and barren. 

Population in 1820, 1,853— in 1830, 3,349. It belongs to the 18th judi- 
cial circuit, and 9th district. Tax paid in 1833, $263 01— in 1834, on 
lots, Sn 98— land, $199 19— .53 slaves, $13 2.5— 899 horses, $53 94—4 
studs, $25 00. Total, $303 36. Expended in educating poor children 
in 1832, $179 80— in 1833, $65 83. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Birch River, P. O. 284 ms. from 
R. and 327 S. W. of W , situated in 
the northern part of the county, 17 
ms. N. W. of the countv seat 



ms. N. W. by. W. of R. and 310 W. 
of W., in lat. 38° 18' N. and long. 
3° 48' W. of VV. C. This village is 
situated on a flat at the head of Pe- 



MoiTNTAiN Cove, P' O. 273 ms. iter's creek, and Arbuckles' branch, 
from R. and 315 W. of W. The water rises from a flat near the 

NICHOLAS C.H. or SUMMER-itown and flows east and wer.t. consti- 
VILLE, P. O. and county scat, 286'tuting westwardly the head of Peter's 



404 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— OHIO. 



creek, and eastwardly the water Hows 
into Arbuckle's branch, both of which 
streams empty into Gauley river, 
many miles apart. The village con- 
tains a frame court house, a clerk's of- 
fice, and jail of hewn si one, of supe- 
rior elegance and durabiliiy, 20 dwel- 
ling houses, 2 miscellaneous stores, 
2 taverns, 1 tan yard, 2 smith shops, 
1 hatter, 1 house joiner, 2 tailors, and 
1 boot and shoe maker. Population 
100 persons; of whom 2 are resident 
attorneys. There is no physician 
here, and there. are only 2 in the 
county. 

County Courts are held on the 2d 
Tuesday in every month ; — Quarter- 
ly in March, June, August and No- 
vember. 

Judge Duncan holds his Circuit 
Superior Courts of Law and Chancery 
on the 6//^ of April and September. 

SuTTONsviLLE, P. O. 300 ms. N. 
W. by W. of R. and 312 S. W. by 
W. of W., situated in the southern 
part of the county, on the south side 
of Big Elk river, distant 100 rns. from 
the head of Elk, and from its junc- 
tion with the GJreat Kanawha river. 
Elk is navigable to the Union Mills, 
10 ms. above Suttonsville, which may 
be considered the head of good navi- 
tion. The situation of this villag-g is 
eligible, being situated at the inter- 
section of the main northern and 
southern mail routes, passing through 
the vallies of Kanawha and Ohio. 
It contains 8 dwelling houses, 2 mis- 
cellaneous stores, 1 house of enter- 
tainment, and 1 tanyard. Population 
45. The princi[)al pursuits of the 



inhabitants are building flat bottomed 
boats which are run down to the Ka- 
nawha salines, and freighted off with 
salt to the various markets in the 
western country. There are a con- 
siderable number of valuable grist 
and saw mills on this river, which 
prepare large quantities of plank, 
lumber, &.C., for boat building, and 
for the Charleston market on the 
Great Kanawha. There are also 
great quantities of boat gunwales, 
barrel-staves, and hoop-poles, carried 
from this place to the Kanawha sa- 
lines. There are at this time about 
15 saw mills built and building on 
Big Elk and its tributary waters, a 
part of which are expected to go into 
operation this season, and many oth- 
ers are in operation on that part of 
Big Elk river which runs through 
Kanawha countjr. It will give some 
idea of the business done at this place 
and its immediate vicinity, and of its 
fast increasing trade, to state that in 
the spring of 1833, there were sent 
off a.t one time in boats, lumber, &c., 
to the amount of from 10 to 12,000 
dollars. This was the product of 
about six months labor, including the 
winter season. This section of coun- 
try is but thinl}'- and newly settled, 
with the exception of a few hunters, 
who are not generally very enterpris- 
ing people. Its remote situation has 
kept its natural advantages and facili- 
ties out of view until lately. It is 
now improving, and promises fair to 
become a flitm-i.-^hinp- nnd prosperous 
village 



OHIO. 

Ohio county was created by act of Assembly in the year l/Tfi, from a 
portion of the District of West Augusta. It is' bounded" N. by Brooke,— 
N. E. by Washington (ounty. Pa.— S. E. by Greene county. Pa.— S. by 
Tyler county, Va.— S. W. by the Ohio river, which separates it from Mon- 
roe county, Ohio,— and N. W. by Belmont county, Ohio. It will be per- 
ceived that these limits include the new county of'MARSHALL, created from 



WESTERN V'llUilXlA— ( )lil( K 



405 



the Soutliorn portion of Ohio, at the session of the Legislature of 1834-5. 
Indeed as the law has not yet been promulgated which established this new 
county it will be impossible to separate them, and we shall speak of Ohio 
county as it stood in December, 1834. Its mean length is 28.^ miles, mean 
breadth 13; and area 375 square miles. It extends in lat. from 39° 42' to 
40° 14' N. and in long, from 3° 3G' to 3° 55' W. of W. C. I'he declivity 
is N. W. towards the Ohio river. Several creeks which rise in Pa. flow 

N. W. to the Ohio through this county: — they are — Fishing, — Fish, 

Grave, — Wheeling, and Short. — The surface is very much broken, but 
the soil very fertile, especially on the watercourses. 

Population iu 1820, 9,182 — in 1830, 15,590. It belongs to the 20th ju- 
dicial circuit and 10th district. Tax paid in 1833, ^2630 17 — in 1834, 
on lots, $1385 4G— land, $820 33—183 slaves, $45 75—4291 horses] 
$257 46—23 studs, $190 00—40 coaches, $97 2-5- 13 carryalls, $14 50 
— 12 gigs, $3 50 — Total $2819 25. Expended in educatin<?- poor children 
in 1832, $520 00— in 1833, $842 61. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Ap.chville, p. O. 263 ms. from 
W. and 353 from R. 

Breler's Station, P. O. 350 
ms. N. W. of R. and 259 N. W. 
by W. of W. — situated in the south- 
ern part of the county — the present 
county of Marshall. 

Grave Crkkk, or Elizabeth- 
town, P. V. 356 ms, from R, and 
260 N. W. by W. of W.— situated 
12 ms. below Wheeling. This creek 
and village take their name from ve- 
ry extensive tumuli, scattered over an 
elevated bottom or plain, '^i'he au- 
thor of this article visited this plain 
twice in 1794, before the use of the 
jilough or other farming utensils had 
much disturbed the remains. At that 
epoch one very large conical mound, 
surrounded by a ditch, was itself en- 
vironed by numerous and similar, 
though smaller, tumuli. The remains 
of the roads, sloping down the banks 
from the plain, was also perfectly dis- 
tinguishable, as was the trench of a 
work in form of a parallelogram. 

I'rtadelimiia, p. O. 304 ms. from 
R. and 255 from W. 

West Union, P. O. 344 ms. from 
R. and 266 S. W. by W. of W.— 
Situated on Wheeling creek, 14 miles 
S. E. by E. of Wheeling, on an ad-| 
Viiutageous and beautiful eminence,' 



and on the post road leading from 
Morgantown, Monongalia county, to 
Wheeling-. It contains 7 dwelling 
houses, 2 houses of public worship, 
(1 Methodist, and 1 Presbyterian,) 1 
common school, 2 taverns, 1 general 
store, 2 blacksmith shops, 1 tanyard, 
and 1 tailor's shop. Population 25. 

W^est Liberty, P. O. 276 ms. 
N. W. by VV. of W. and 369 from 
R. This village is situated in a 
healthy and flourishing neighbor- 
hood, densely settled, five miles from 
the Ohio river, twelve miles N. E, 
of Wheeling, and nine S. of Wells- 
burg, the county seat of Brooke. It 
contains 40 dwelling houses, 2 houses 
of public worship, (1 Presbyterian, 
and 1 Methodist,) 1 academy and 2 
common schools, 3 mercantile stores, 
2 lanyards, 2 saddlers, 1 hatter, 2 
blacksmith shops, 2 tailors, 1 coach 
maker, and several house carpenters, 
cabinet makers, &c. 1 printing office, 
from which a weekly paper is issued. 
I'here are within the circle of 3 ms. 
around this village, 6 manufacturing 
flour mills. The soil of the sur- 
rounding neighborhood is productive, 
and one of the best wheat and wool 
groAving countries wt st of the moun- 
tains. Population 280 persons; of 
whom 2 are regular physicians. 



406 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— OHIO. 



WHEELING CITY, ^eat of 
justice, 357 ms. from R. and 264 W. 
of W. C. in lat. 40° 07' N. and long. 
4" 36' W. of W. C. — situated on the 
left bank of the Ohio river, and at the 
mouth of a creek of the same name, 
56 ms. S. W. of Pittsburg and 31 S. 



first manufacturing towns in the wes- 
tern country, and ranks, in point of 
population, the fourth in the state. 
There are at all times not less than 
26 steam engines in operation. The 
Wheeling Iron Works, owned by- 
Messrs. Shanberger &. Agnew, roll 



W. by W. of Washington, in Pa. — 1 1000 tons of iron annually — about 
The origin of this place was Wheel- 300 tons of which are cut into nails 
inc fort, built early in the Revolu- lof various sizes — the balance being 



tionary war, which stood on the breast 
of a high bank, at the point of which, 
the U. S. road reaches the Ohio river. 
Wheelingadvanced at first but slowly. 
It was laid out as a village early in 
1783, and in 1820 contained 1,567 in- 
habitants. Within the last thirteen 
years the advance has been rapid, — 
in 1830 the population was 5,222, and 
now, 1834, is estimated at 8,000, — 
among whom are 14 resident attor- 
neys, 12 regular physicians, and 11 
olergymen. It contains about 500 
houses, 9 houses of public worship, 
(2 Presbyterian, 1 Episcopalian, 2 
Methodist, 1 Catholic, I Friends or 
Q,uakers, 1 regular Baptist, and 1 
Campbellite, &-c. 

There are a number of very ex- 
cellent institutions here. 1st. The 
Wheeling Institute, contains 4 depart- 
ments, viz : — infant — primary — clas- 
sical, and female — under the super- 
intendence of six teachers, and con- 
tains from 150 to 160 pupils. 

2d. The. Wheeling Lancaster ian 
Academy. 3d. The W'heeling Clas- 
sical Academy. 4th. The Wheel- 
ing Feinale Seminary. 5th. The 
Wheeling University, (not yet organ- 
ized,) and nine common Englii^h pre 
paratory schools. 

The rear of this town is skirled by 
a range of hills which approaches 
within a short distance of the river. 
These hills, which abound with inex- 
haustible quantities of stone coal, from 
their proximity to the town are of the 
greatest convenience to the numerous 
manufactories; — a number of them 
having coal within a few yards of 
their fires. This place is one of the 



bar, boiler, sheet, hoop iron, &c. 
giving employment to a great num- 
ber of hands, and consuming 150,- 
000 bushels of stone coal annually. 
These works are calculated to pro- 
duce double or treble the quantity pr. 
annum, if there were a demand for it. 
There are also 4 iron foundries, em- 
ploying 70 hands, & consuming about 
130,000 bushels of coal annually, 4 
steam engine builders, giving employ- 
ment to 7U hands and consuming 60,- 
000 bushels of stone coal annually — 
5 glass houses and 2 glass cutting es- 
tablishments — giving employment to 
193 hands, and consuming 260,000 
bushels of stone coal, 3 steam flour 
mills, consuming 75,000 bushels per 
annum, 1 brewery, 2 steam distilleries, 
consuming 50,000 bushels, 2 cotton 
factories, 2 woollen factories and card- 
ing machines, consuming 70,000 bush- 
els, 2 paper mills, 70,000 bushels, 2 
steam saw mills, 50,000 bushels, 1 
copperas, 1 white and 1 sheet lead fac- 
tory, consuming 8,000 bushels of stone 
coal annually. 

There are 2 tobacco factories and 1 
glue factory, 1 coach and wagon ma- 
ker, 1 edge tool maker, 3 chair ma- 
kers, 1 comb maker, 2 merchant tai- 
lors, giving employment to a great 
number of hands, 4 silversmiths, 18 
blacksmiths, and 3 white smiths, 2 
steam planing machines, 3 tanners 
and curriers. 5 saddlers, 17 boot and 
shoe factories, 6 painters and glaziers, 
3 cabinet makers, 3 coppersmiths and 
tin plate workers, 5 hatters, 2 wire 
workers, 2 coopers, 1 rope maker, 2 
water pump manufactories, 2 soap and 
tallow chandleries, 10 bake houses, G 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— Oino. 



407 



livery stahlos, 1 stone and earthen pot- 
tery, 7 brick yards, 12 master stone 
and brick masons, 5 stone cutters, 6 
plasterers, 7 carpenters and underta- 
kers, 1 book bindery, I brass foundry, 
3 window glass and hollow ware 
manufactories, consuming 175,000 
bushels of coal annually, 3 printing 
offices, (2 issuing a weekly, and 1 a 
tri- weekly paper,) 1 book and job of- 
fice, 2 book stores, 1 reading room, 
and a very extensive circulating libra- 
ry, 12 apothecaries' shops, 1 Lyceum, 
a Masonic Hall and Theatre. 

The aggregate number of manu- 
factories in the town of Wheeling for 
domestic goods are 113, using annu- 
ally upwards of 1,000,000 bushels of 
coal, and giving employment to more 
than l,ot)0 hands. There are 65 
wholesale and retail stores, vending 
annually goods to the amoimt of Sl,- 
500,000, 7 commission and forward- 
ing houses, lor the sale of goods con- 
signed, and for receiving and forward- 
ing merchandize and produce. These 
houses, from Nov'r 1832, to Nov'r 
1833, forwarded to Baltimore and the 
District of Columbia, by wagons, 
2,671 hogsheads of tobacco, and by 
steam, keel and flat boats, to the west 
and south, and by wagons to Balti- 
more and Philadelphia, merchandize 
and produce equal to at least 11,000 
tons. During the same period there 
was paid to wagoners for carriage on 
goods from the eastern cities, and to 
boats for freights, via the river, a sum 
variously estimated at from $230 to 
$250,000. The amount of money 
expended for the purchase of merino 
wool exported during the past season 
cannot be exactly ascertained, but it is 
known that n sum exceeding $1(M,- 
500 was so invested for pork, lard and 
bacon 130 to $140,0(»(), flour 550 
to $600,000, whiskey, cider, apples, 
&c. 50 to $60,000, flat boats to trans- 
port the same 70 to $80,000, stone 
coal, say 1,000,000 bushels, $30,000. 
fiat boats to transport the same, 15 to 
$20,000. There is owned in Wheel- 



ing, in whole and in part, from 17 to 
20 steam boats, worth from 200 ta 
$230,000. The arrivals and depar- 
tures of steam boats at and from this 
port during the past year were, 738. 
VV^heeling is by a law of Congre&s a 
port of entry, so that goods from any 
port of Europe may be imported di- 
rect without payment of duties at New 
Orleans. 

There is now running to and from 
Wheeling eight lines of daily stages, 
east, west and north — 1 tri-weekly 
line, 1 semi-weekly and 1 weekly. 
The number of passengers arriving 
and departing weekly by steam boats 
and stages are variously estimated at 
from 350 to 400. — The Baltimore and 
C)iiio wagon transportation company 
with a capital of $200,000 (one-fourth 
of which is paid in) transports goods 
and produce between Wheeling and 
Baltimore. One wagon arrivesand de- 
parts daily at and from each of those 
places, with a load weighing from 2^ 
to 2^ tons and occupies 8 days upon 
the road. Arrangements are in pro 
gress to increase the number of daily 
arrivals and departures from one to 
three wagons, and eventually to five. 

There are now within a circle of 
25 miles around Wheeling, 134 manu- 
facturing flour mills, making annual- 
ly at least 270,000 barrels of flour, 
Avorth say $823,500 — of this quanti- 
ty, from 150,000 to 160,000 bbls. are 
exported by boats to New Orleans, or 
by wagons across the mountains. — 
The public water works are now near- 
ly completed, worked by a steam en- 
gine of 120 horsepower; and it pos- 
sesses the capacity to raise gallons 
of water from the Ohio river per hour. 
These, together with the erection of 
public stone wharves, sewers, &c. &c. 
of the most permanent kind, cost the 
corporation within the last 2 years an 
expenditure of upwards of $40,000. 
A stone bridge has lately been erect- 
ed over Wheeling creek at this place, 
at a cost of $17,000. — Boat building 
for the last few years has been carried 



408 



WESTERN V IRGIN lA— PA GE 



on here extensively. At low water, jthe second to'.vn in the commonwealth. 



steamboats ascend no higlier than this 
place. From the fact of its having a 
more permanent navigation the whole 
year round than any other point, it is 



made the general route of travellei'S. I west." 



A growth so rapid, is believed to be 
altogether Unexampled in Virginia; 
and but seldom surpassed even in the 
rapidly filling districts of the "great 



It also possesses one of the finest mar- 
kets in the western country. The 



This town, the capital of Ohio 
county, situated at the head of steam 



Baltimore and Ohio rail-road it is! boat navigation on the Ohio, during 
supposed will strike the Ohio river at] the low water season; at the termina- 



this place. Considering all these ad- 
vantages, there remains no doubt that 
in the course of a few years Wheel- 
ing- will become one of the most im- 



tion of the eastern, and commence- 
ment of the Avestern division of the 
great "Cumberland," or "National 
Road:" possessing unexampled facili- 



portant places in the west. The I ties and advantages for manufacturing, 



northwestern bank of Virginia is lo 
cated here. It may not be consider- 
ed irrelative to state that the present 
population of Wheeling is estimated 
at about 8,000 souls; shewing an in- 
crease in the last four years, (since 
the census of 1S30) of about fiffy per 
cent.; and, in the last 15 years, of 
about eight hundred per cent! The 
colored part of the population, both 
slaves and free blacks — amounting to 
less than two hundred — it is highly 
probable that Wheeling contains al- 
ready, the largest ivhi.te population of 
any town or city, in the state; and, in 
reference to its manufactories and 
commerce, if not the first, is doubtless. 



in the abundance and low cost of all 
materials, and especially of fuel; 
(coal, costing, delivered at the facto* 
ries, but one to three cents per bush- 
el:) surrounded by a country of un- 
common fertility, and remarkable for 
health — cannot but continue to ad- 
vance in business, population and 
wealth. 

County and Corporation Courts 
are held on the ScZ Monday, in eve- 
ry mouth: — Quarterly in March, 
Jiine, August and Not^ember. 

Circuit Superior Courts of Law 
and Chancery are held on the [Ath 
of May aAid October, by Judgk Fry. 



PAGE. 

Page was established by act of Assemblj^ in 1(531, and formed out of 
parts of Rockingham and Shenaiidoali. It is bounded on the W. and N. 
W. by Shenandoah, — N. and N. E. by Frederick,— E. by ihe Blue Ridge, 
separating it from Rappahannock, — S. E. by Madison, and S. and S. W". by 
Rockingham, Length 34 miles, breadth 11, and area 374 square miles. 
Lat. 38° 45' long. 1° 25' W. of W. C. It consists of one entire valley. 
The Blue Ridge lying on the east and the Fort or Ma.?sanuttin mountain 
on the west. The Shenandoah river passes through the whole length of 
the county, running from south to north. The Blue Ridge and Fort moun- 
tain are exactly parallel to each other, and here range due north and south, 
thus making the countj^ an oblong square — the east and west boundary 
lines running on the top of these mountains respective!)'. These moun- 
tains present a most beautiful and pictureque appearance at all seasons of 
the year. The snow and ice, and 'clouds oi winter, are not less beautiful, 
though something more dreary, than the refreshing green of summer, or 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— PAGE. 409 

the bright and varied hues of autumn. The land in this county is gene- 
rally of" the very best quality of limestone, valley land — a very consider- 
able portion is bottom, lying on the Shenandoah river and Hawksbill 
and other creeks. Considered in relation to its agricultural advantages, it is 
with the exception of JefTerson, the richest county of its size, in the state. 
The productions of the soil are such as are common in the valley of Vir- 
ginia. 

There are in the county 61 saw mills, 21 merchant mills, 20 grist mills, 
6 carding machines, 3 oil mills, 6 hemp mills, 10 tan yards, l blast fur- 
nace for smelting iron and making castings, and 2 forges for making bar 
iron. These forges and this furnace belong to Bcnj. Blackford & Son, 
and their manufactures in iron, are annually worth 50,000 dollars. 

Vast quantities of iron ore are found in every part of the county. Cop- 
per, lead and magnesia are also found in considerable quantities. Beauti- 
ful marble is found in many places. The town of Luray may be said to 
be almost built on a rock of gray marble — but as yet there has been no 
effort made to dress it for ornamental use. The rock is blown, and the 
marble in its rough and crude state — is used for all the common building 
purposes of the town. It never can become an article of commerce, until 
there are increased facilities of transportation. 

The population by the census in 1830 was 8,327, about 1000 of whom 
were slaves. It belongs to the 14th judicial circuit and 7th district. Tax 
paid in 1833, $1354 09— in 1834, on lots, $49 65— land, $989 56—517 
slaves, $129 25—1991 horses, $189 46— 6 studs, $38 00—6 coaches, 
$13 00— 4 gigs, $2 50. Total, $1341 42. . Expended in educating poor 
children in 1832, $237 25— in 1833, $369 IS. 

Cariosiiies.—^Theve are several very large mounds or Indian graves, 
such as are common to the Ohio and Mississippi valley — from one of which, 
situated in a field in cultivation, bones, beads, pipes, &c. are continually 
dragged by the plough There are many large and extensive caves in this 
county, such as are peculiar to lime stone countries — one of which, that at 
Cave Hill, is thought to be little inferior in extent and beauty to Weyer's 
Cave. It is not however, very accessible, the entrance being difficuU, and 
is therefore but little visited. The author has been so obliging as to send 
us the following beautiful description of this remarkable cave — which he 
published in the Shenandoah Sentinel, May 14th, 1825, it is well written 
and well worthy of perusal. 

''Wonders of Cavp. Hill. — It would seem that all that region of coun- 
try lying west of the Blue Ridge, as far towards the Pacific ocean as 
it has been explored and known, abounds in subjects, which, whilst they 
gratify the curiosity and exercise the utmost stretch of the imagination, 
confound and bafTle the understanding. And a subject not the least curi- 
ous and wonderful, are those extensive and numerous caverns, which are 
found generally in the limestone districts of country. 

"One of those caves has been known to the people of the neighborhood 
of Luray, in Page county, during a number of years past; but nothing 
like a full discovery of its beauties was ever made uvitil within a few days 
past. This cave is about one mile west of the town of Luray, and situa- 
ted within a hundred yards of the road leading from Thornton's Gap to 
New Market. The entrance is almost exactly at the top of a small moun- 
tain, which has for along time been known to the neighborhood by the name 
of C.vvE Hill. Recently several attempts had been made to explore thia 
52 



410 WESTERN VIRGINIA— PAGE. 

subterranean vvocld, but rather unsuccessftilly; and on Saturday last a party 
of fifteen gentlemen left Luray, with a determination to give it a complete 
exploration. 

"The mouth of the cave was rather difficult of access, owing to its small- 
ness ; but the party eager for the marvellous and impatient of obstacles, 
fell manfully to work, and in a short time, by breaking and removing' the 
rocks, a different and more commodious entrance than the one formerly 
used, was opened into the cave. Then commenced the bustle of prepara- 
tion for the descent. The broad cloth and finer articles of dress were 
quickly laid aside, and in their stead was substituted old clothing, which 
had been specially provided for the occasion. Then the descent com- 
menced — each man provided with a sufficient number of candles for half a 
day, whilst others carried provisions and refreshments; and others again, 
instruments for the purpose of ascertaining courses, distances, &.C., and of 
determining other matters relating to the ca\-e. 

"Here, if we mistake not, was a pretty correct criterion of that physical 
courage and strength of nerve which we so much admire in others, and 
which we are all willing to believe we possess ourselves. Each man was 
Avilling that his comrade should descend first into this great unknown deep; 
and all were willing to be the last to enter. In a few moments, however, 
the whole party were safely entered. The descent for ten or fifteen yards 
is rather narrow, and at an angle of forty-five degrees; it then takes a 
horizontal direction, until we are brought at the distance of about one hun- 
dred yards from the entrance, to the first room, which from its situation, we 
called the Lobby. 

"The passage approaches this room about ten feet above the level of the 
floor, and at some places it is perpendicular, but the descent into the room, 
is down the rocks somewhat in the form of steps. This room contains 
some specimens of beautiful spar. Here we tried to take the bearing of 
the room, but found from the proximity of minerals, or some unknown 
cause, that the instruments were rendered AvhoUy useless. Leaving this 
room, we proceeded in a direction which seemed to be west and southwest, 
and down the side of the hill. This passage has somewhat the appearance 
of a large stairway. After descending, as we supposed, about a quarter of 
a mile, the passage became very straight and smooth, and gradually enlarged 
until we perceived that we stood in front of a room Avhose dimensions, from 
the light of our candles, we could not discover. The entrance here, as in 
the room Avhich we first entered, was ten or fifteen feet above the level oi 
the floor. After a few moments, however, by clinging to the projections vi' 
spar, Avhich here appeared like large icicles, the whole party stood safely 
upon the floor of this great room. Here all the wonder and magnificence 
of the subterranean world burst upon us at once. We found that we stood 
in a room, the area of whose floor was equal to a quarter of an acre. Im- 
mediately before us, and within a few feet of the centre of the room, arose 
a vast column or pillar, in some degree combinnrg architectural propor- 
tions; and running up about thirty feet, and supporting the dome of this 
immense Hall This column stands upon a block or rude pedestal, about 
three feet in height, and the shaft where it rests upon it is about the thick- 
ness of a man's body. It then swells gradually until it becomes, at the 
distance of twenty feet from its base, about the size of a barrel, whence it 
continues of the same size, until it gradually enlarges into its capital, where 
it reaches the dome. Strange to tell, this vast column is almost as regular- 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— PAGE. 411 

ly fluted or grooved, as if it had been done with the chisel of the sculptor. 
About fifteen feet from the main pillar stand two smaller ones, about ten 
feet in height, which consequently do not reach the reiling; and just at 
their base, and nearly between them is a small pool or basin of water. 
Here the whole party sat down, and unfolding their various bundles of 
provisions and refreshments, and sticking their candles to the different pil- 
lars and projections of the wall, enjoyed their cold collation with such ap- 
petites and spirits, as were naturally produced by exercise and the novelty 
of the scene around us. We perceived now for the first time, by the united 
glare of all our candles, that the whole of the arch of this immense Hall, 
was hung with the most beautiful stalactites, and variegated with almost 
every possible variety of color. In some places it was perfectly white, then 
red, grey or yellow — and in othei's it was as clear and transparent as ice. 

"In looking around us towards the lights which were dispersed in dif- 
ferent parts of the Hall, the various small spars or pillars that were point- 
ing lip — others that had been detached from the ceiling and lay scattered 
about the floor — and numerous large blocks of crystalized limestone, pro- 
duce novel and almost indescribable feelings. It did not require an imagi- 
nation unusually fervid, to liken this dim picture of the floor, to the minia- 
ture ruins of some great city, with a few of its spires and steeples pointing 
up from the ruins; or to some mighty temple, with its shattered and broken 
columns and fallen walls, with just sufficient of its materials to shew the 
style of its former magnificence. 

"When we had finished our repast and collected our company to push 
forward in quest of further discoveries, we concluded to call this room 
Congress Hall; its magnificence being equalled by nothing else within 
our knowledge. We now proceeded to the left of the entrance by which 
we came into the Hall — entered an opening which presented itself, and by 
following rather an uneven and difficult passage, we very soon arrived in 
another room. Here we found a very pleasing subject for our admiration. 
A large block or projection of the rock at one side of this room was hung 
round with a vast number of stalactites, of every possible variety of shape 
and size, — from the thickness of one's finger to that of one's arm, and from 
six inches to three or four feet in length. Some one of the party casually 
striking one of the larger of these stalactites, a loud, full sound was emit- 
ted, something like the tone of a distant church bell. Several of the party 
then drawing pieces of spar across these stalactites, alternately and in con- 
cert with each other, it produced a rude and not unpleasing melody, with 
every gradation of sound, from the deepest tone of the organ to the finest 
note of the flute. This room we somewhat aptly called the Music Room. 
Finding no convenient outlet from this room other than the one by which 
we entered, we returned into Congress Hall. After we had entered this 
Hall again, and continued to the right until we came to the great stairway, 
by which we had first entered, we discovered greatly to our surprise that 
this entrance projected into the Hall twelve or fifteen feet, and was nearly 
as many feet from the floor. You can form some idea of this singular 
entrance by supposing a square box with its ends open to be projected 
throuo-h a window into a room. This projected or funnel part of the entrance 
appeared to have been formed by the same process^ that the stalactites and 
spar had been; and its bottom, under which we could all walk and view it, 
seemed not to be more than nine or ten inches in thickness. Immediately 
to the right of this passage, commenced, what wc very properly called, a 



412 WESTERN VIRGINIA— PAGE. 

GaUerij. This Gallery was considerably above the level of the room, and 
contained a great quantity of very brilliant and beautiful spar. The side 
of the Gallery next to the Hall was entirely open, from which we could 
look down into it. We left the gallery, and still continuing to the right 
around the Hall, we entered a cavity in the floor; and after traversing a 
tolerably long aud difficult passage, we arrived at a very regular room, the 
side walls and ceiling of which seemed to be the clear blue limestone, with 
a thin crystallization as clear as glass over their surface. We could reach 
the ceiling, upon which we wrote many of our names with white chalk, 
the day of the month, year, &c. I'his room we called the Glazed Cham- 
ber. In the passage leading to this chamber, we discovered attached to 
the side of the rock, what appeared to be a complete conch shell. The 
shape and size — the smoothness and delicate red on the inside, and the 
roughness on the outside, with the little circle of knobs near the top, all 
precisely corresponded with tlie product of the sea. And it appeared that 
a very gentle tap would have detached it from the rock. Within a few 
feet of this \yas a sparry excrescence, exactly resembling the human heart. 
Its color, shape, and size all precisely corresponded. And near this again, 
the perfect leg, foot, and talons of a bird projected from the rock. 1'hese 
several objects were so clearly and completely defined and so closely re- 
sembled the originals, as to strike the mind even of the most inattentive 
observer with a degree of astonisliment. 

" From the Glazed Chamber we all once more returned lo Congress 
Hall, and still continued our discoveries to the right around the room. We 
perceived now, that as the arch of this great room became lower, large 
stalactites were projected from it and reached the floor: thus forming a beau- 
tiful colonnade or row of shining pillars in a line with the direction of the 
room, and three or four feet from its wall, leaving between this colonnade 
a,nd the wall a beautiful recess. In this recess one of the simplest, yet one 
of the most striking beauties of the cave unfolded itself This was a 
spring or pool of pure water, which appeared as transparent as ether. This 
pool or basin is about three or four feet in diameter, and twelve or fourteen 
inches in depth. The bottom and sides of this basin where the water covers 
them, are entirely covered with stalagmites or drops of shining spar, which 
have much the appearance of burnished silver. About the centre of this 
pool, stands a beautiful stalactite, eighteen inches in height, and unlike all 
the rest of these specimens of spar which we found arising from the floor, 
the small end or point rested on the bottom of the basin, and gradually 
enlarged until it arose several inches above the top of the water; thus pre- 
senting the singular appearance of a long cone resting upon its point. 
Exactly over this, a large spar hangs from the ceiling of the room, and 
approaches within eighteen inches of that which is in the water. From 
the point of this hanging spar there runs a stream of water about the thick- 
ness of a cpjill, and falls exactly on the top of the spar in the centre of the 
spring; and is, in fact, the source from which the spring is supplied. Both 
of these stalactites have the appearance of large icicles. 

" To the right of this spring behind the pillars and a little above it, 
through the solid limestone rock or wall of the room, was a small smooth 
opening just large enough to admit the body: This opening is perfectly 
level, and after sliding about ten feet, we came into a room, not so large, 
but in point of beauty, far exceeding anything which Ave had seen. The 
whole interior of this room is a complete lustre, or surface of shining spar. 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— PAGE. 413 

In this room about three and a half feet ahovc tlie level of the floor, is a 
complete wainscot or chairboard, with apparent mouldings and carved work 
in complete relief: and extending- in one entire and unbroken circle around 
the room. In the centre of the floor stand three large spars, resemblino- 
candlesticks of a mammoth size. These candlesticks arise from the floor 
of the room with various enlargements and diminutions, resembling carved 
M'ork, until they reach the exact level of the chairboard, when the spar 
which resembles the candle, and seems to be set into a socket, runs up 
about two feet. As if to make the copy more exact, and the resemblance 
more palpably striking, the candlesticks seem to be of a dusky or bronze 
color, and the candle or spar arising from it of a clear Avhitc. We called 
this room the Mnaonic Hall. 

One fact here presented itself too palpably to be mistaken This room 
had evidently been at one time lilled with water to the height of the chair- 
board, and by the gradual crystallization of the lime and nitre which it 
held suspended, the chairboard was formed, which at once accounted for 
its being so perfectly level and regular, and running into all the little hol- 
lows and irregularities of the wall. I'he candlesticks too had been formed 
in the same way by the dropping of the water from the arch; and which 
being, as we supposed completely saturated wiJi lime and nitre, was of 
greater specific gravity than the water into which it fell, and thus was 
gradually formed the large spars which resembled the candlesticks, until 
they rose even with the top of the water; after which the spar became im^ 
)nediately small and clear, resembling a candle. The crystallization on 
the walls of this room is in beautiful waves and folds, resembling drapery. 
At one end of the room a large spar, resembling a bed post, stood in beau- 
tiful relief from the wall, and large folds and waves of drapery, resembling 
curtains, seemed to hide the rest of the bed. 

" Here then our admiration and astonishment were at their height. Our 
feelings had been wrought up to a degree of almost painful intensity. 
Here we stood hundreds of feet beneath the surface of the earth, and a full 
half-mile from the first entrance, treading upon a spot and breathing an 
atmosphere which had not been disturbed since the creation of the world. 
A place in which the human voice had never before been heard, and on 
whose beauties the human eye had never rested. There was in truth an 
awful sublimity in the state of our feelings, superinduced not only by what 
we saw, but in j)art perhaps by a contingent danger to which we were ex- 
posed. The falling of the arch, or the rolling of a single rock into some 
of the narrow passages which we had to retrace, would have shut us up in 
eternal darkness in this mysterious region of wonders. 

" Why nature should display those various and astonishing beauties only 
for herself, or place them thus in a region of darkness and danger, is to 
us marvellous and incomprehensible. Or why she should thus, in a capri- 
cious or whimsical mood, group together object? the least resembling each 
other in their nature and uses is equally strange. A bedstead, drapery and 
candlesticks — a conch shell, bird's foot and a human heart, Strange and 
mysterious associations. AVe cannot fully describe or comprehend tliem. 
And all that we could do upon viewing them was to exclaim, w^ond.'rful ! 
wonderful ! 

"From the room last described, we returned to the mouth of tlie cave, 
and found that we had spent upwards of four hours in examining its beau- 
ties, without, however, discovering their full extent. We determined to 
defer a further search to some other occasion, 



414 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— PAGE. 



" This cave is situated on tlie lands of Mr David McKay, and is said to 
have been first partially explored in the following singular manner. A 
Mr. Ruffner, who was nearly as much celebrated for deeds of sylvan 
prowess as the renowned Putnam, in passing this cave some thirty years 
ago, conceived the bold and hazardous design of entering it alone. He 
accordingly prepared hmiself a flambeau of pine, and placed his rifle 
across the mouth, to indicate, in case of accident, to his friends, if they 
should happen to see it, that he was in the cave. He descended, but soon 
fell and put out his light, and as might have been expected, was soon be- 
wildered and lost in its labyrinth of passages. It happened that some of 
his friends in passing the cave discovered his gun, and rightly concluding 
that he had gone into it, they procured lights and entered in search of him, 
and found and brought him out again, after his having been in forty-eight 
hours. This brave fellow was among the pioneers who were foremost in 
explering and settling our western frontier ; and was at last killed by the 
Indians, after having performed deeds of valor and daring prowess, Avhich 
would have done honor to the character of a hero." 

We suggest the propriety of commemorating the exploit mentioned in 
this last paragraph, by calling this cave in future Ruffner's Cave. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 

Hambattgh's, P. O. 146 ms. from, near the centre of the county, and 
R. and 82 W. of W. C. iequidistant from Thornton's Gap on 

HoNiEsviLi-E, p. O. 137 ms. fromlthe E., and Massanutten Gap on the 
R. and 115 W. of W. C. This vil-jW. The first house in this village 
lage is situated 10 ms. above Luray, ; was built in 1814. It now contains 
between the Masanutten mountain ;besides the ordinary county buildings, 
and the Blue Ridge, on the banks of between 40 and 50 dwelling houses, 
Honey creek, (from which it takes 2 houses of public worship, (1 Bap- 
its name,) about 200 yards from its tist and 1 Methodist.) There are 4 
junction with the south Shenandoah mercantile stores, 1 tan yai'd, 2 cabi- 
river, which is navigable 40 miles net makers, 2 wheelwrights, and va- 
above this place. It contains 6 dwel-jrious other mechanics. Population 
ling houses, 1 house of public wor- 400 persons, of whom 3 are resident 
ship, free for all denominations, I attorneys and 3 regular physicians, 
common school, 1 mercantile store, i County Courts are held on the \th 
tavern, 1 extensive manufacturing TI/om^^^?/ in every month; — Quarler- 
flour mill, 2 saw mills, i avooI card- ly in March, May, August and No- 
ing machine, 1 distillery, 1 boat yard renibcr. 
famed for building gundaloe boats, 1 
tailor, 1 boot and shoe maker, and 1 
blacksmith shop. — Population 34 per- 
sons ; of whom 1 is a regular physi- 
cian. 



Judge Smith holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the Ui of April and Septem- 
ber. 

The court house in this village 

Hope's Mills, P. O. 3 ms. N. of i which is erected on a considerable 

Luray, and 87 from W. jeminence, and on the edge of the 



Kite's Mill, P. O. 14 ms. from 

Luray, county seat, and 104 from W. 

LURAY, P. V. and county seat, 



town, is perhaps one of the handsom- 
est buildings of the kind in Western 
Virjrinia. It commands a view of 



105 ms. from W. and 1 3G frumR.jthe mountains to the east and west 
It is situated on theHawksbill creelc, I far beyond the limit? of the county. 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— PENDLETON, 415 

Marksville, p. O. 125 ms. from i peaks of the Blue Ridge, between 



R. and 112 from W 

Massam'ttbn, p. O. 144 ms, from 
R. and 114 W. of VV. 

Overalls, P. O 91 ms. W. of W. 
and 142 from R. 

The Stoney Man, one of the 



I'age and Madison counties ; it is 
about 10 ms. distant and in full view 
from the court house j^ard. The 
Stoney Man has been considered by- 
some to be the next highest peak of the 
Blue Ridge, alter the Peaks of Otter, 



PENDLETON. 

Pendleton was created byan act of Assembly passed in 1788, and formed 
from a portion of Augusta, Hardy, and Rockingham. It is bounded N. by 
Hardy, — E. andS. E.bya ridge called the Great North mountain, Avhich sepa- 
rates it from Rockiu'rham and Augusta, — S. by Bath, — and W. by the main 
Alleghany chain, which Separates it from Pocahontas and Randolph. Its mean 
length is 38^ miles, mean breadth 26; and area 999 square miles. It extends in 
lat.^fvom 38° 15. to 38° 53' N. and in long, from 2° to 2° 42' W. of W. C. 
Pendleton occupies the most elevated part of the table land betAveen its two 
bounding ridges of mountains, discharging to the S. W. the extreme sources 
of James river, and in an opposite direction the higher sources of south 
branch of Potomac. Comparing the general elevation of Pendleton with 
the determined height of James river in Alleghany county, considering the 
whole slope of Bath county intervening, the level of the arable land from 
whence flow the sources of James and Potomac rivers, must exceed 2000 
feet. Covington in Alleghany at the junction of Pott's creek with Jack- 
son's, is 1,222 feet above the mean tide in Chesapeake bay, and at this point 
the water of Jackson river has fallen down a plain of upwards of 50 miles 
descent. The southern end of this county is pretty equally divided into 
four vallies, by five parallel ridges of mountains, which go under the fol- 
lowing names, beginning on the eastern side: first, Shenandoah mountain — 
second, Cowj>asture mountain — third, Bullpasture mountain — fourth, Jack- 
son's mountain, and fifth, Fore mountain, to the main Alleghany ridge. The 
valley between the Shenandoah and Cowpasture mountains is watered by a 
stream called Shaw's fork, a branch of the Cowpasture river, and is of a 
thin soil, and badly cultivated. Near the head of the fork, are two beauti- 
ful mineral springs, about two miles apart, which would rank among the 
first watering places in Western Virginia, provided the necessary accom- 
modations could be furnished to visiters. The valley between the Cowpas- 
ture and Bullpasture mountains, is watered by the Cowpasture river, and is 
rather superior in point of soil and cultivation to the former. The valley 
between the Bullpasture and Jackson's mountains, is watered by the Bull- 
pasture river, a rapid and beautiful stream, which furnishes a number of 
commodious sites for machinery. I'he soil in this valley is good, well 
adapted to the growth of grass, and the production of grain, is well im- 
proved, and in a tolerable state of cultivation. The valley between Jackson 
and the Fore mountains, is watered by Jackson's river, and will bear nearly 
the same description of the former. There is in the S. W. part of the county 
on the head of Jackson's river, asnuill village by the name of Woodsboro'. 
It contains seven houses, a lanyard, and various mechanics, but it is on the 
decline. 

The Crab run is a beautiful stream of pure water; it has its rise at the 



41G WESTERN VIRGINIA— PENDLETON. 

eastern base of Jackson's mountain, and flows in a S. E. direction about ten 
miles, through the southern end of the county, and empties into the Bull- 
pasture river, about one mile below the post office of the same name. The 
wedge of land pointing above its junction with the Bullpasture, aflbrds one 
of the most beautiful sites for a town that is any where to be iound in this 
section of country, several dwelling houses, 1 mercantile store, a saw mill, 
a blacksmith shop, 1 house of public worship, and 1 common school, have 
been erected on this spot of ground, which is known by the name of Sugar 
Tree Grove. 

There are within the limits of this description, and south of the main 
Alleghany ridge, 3 houses of public worship, (Methodist,) 2 tan yards, 2 
mercantile stores, and a sufficient number of common schools, for the edu- 
cation of youth, with various mechanics. From the main Alleghany ridge 
northwestward, this part of the county is divided into five valleys, by as 
many different parallel ridges of mountains. The first valley is watered by 
the south fork of the south branch of Potomac, and is situated between the 
Shenandoah and Thorn mountains. — The south fork has its rise in the S. 
W. part of the county, within a few hundred yards of the head spring of 
the Cowpasture river, which flows the other way. From the head of the 
south fork for about 18 miles down the stream, the land is of a sandy soil, 
and is arid, thin and unproductive, and every thing wears the aspect of po- 
verty. Proceeding a little lower down, the bottom begins to widtm, the soil 
becomes more fertile, the farms are more enlarged and in a better state of 
cultivation and repair. " The manners and dress of the people discover more 
polish, — the hair of their flocks and herds has changed its weather-worn 
deadness, for a slick and glossy coat, and every thing assumes the appear- 
ance of thriftiness and better living." The S. fork has but one tributary 
stream of any note, which it receives about ten miles from its source, and 
which is known by the name of Bushby's fork. There is one store on the 
head of the south fork. There are two others below this, — one about 20, 
the other about 30 miles, — the first is 15, the second 9, and the third 12 
miles from Franklin county; seat. There are also four houses of public 
worship on this water, (3 I^utheran and I Union.) The first is 19, the se- 
cond 15, the third 10, and the fourth 13 miles from the county seat. The 
S. fork flows N. E. and after passing into Hardy county, empties into the 
S. branch of the Potomac, about 4 miles below the county line. The S. 
branch of the Potomac is formed by the junction of Streight and Grab 
creeks, which have their rise in the N. W. part of the county, and flow a 
N. E. course through the county, watering the valley which lays between 
the Thorn and N. ibrk mountains. The soil in this valley is rich, and well 
adapted to grass and grain. In this valley are 4 houses of public worship, 
( I on the head of Streight creek, and 1 on Crab creek,) the former 20, the latter 
22 miles above Franklin, both of which belong to the Methodist; and I 
12 miles below, and another 13, one of which is Lutheran and the other 
Methodist. 

The S, branch is a pure and beautiful stream of water, and receives within 
this county the following streams : 3 miles above Franklin, the Black Thorn 
■ — 1 miles below, Reed's creek — arid 3 miles below this is Mill c reek. Three 
miles above Franklin, there is a rich saltpetre cave, from which a vast quan- 
tity of nitre has been made, but the works are now idle. The entrance of 
the cave is a small aperture near the base of a small mountain, and it ex- 
tends under ground for some miles. 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— PENDLETON. 



417 



The next portion in order, is the north fork valley, which is watered by 
the N. fork of the S. branch. It has its rise in the S. W. part of the county, 
and flows a N. E. course, and after passing into Hardy county empties into 
the S. branch a little below the county line, receiving in its course but one 
stream of any note, which is known by the name of Seneca. The land in 
this valley is good, and produces well both grass and grain. There are on 
the N. fork 2 houses of public worship, (both Methodist,) and i store. Be- 
tween this and the main Alleghany mountain, there are two ether ridges. 
the local names of which are Timber Ridge and Spruce mountain. The 
lands on these, as well as the other ridgos of mountains in the county, are 
of tolerable soil, and but thinly settled; but they afford an excellent "range 
for stock during the .summer sesson, and give birth to a number of springs 
of the best water. There are 2 other tan yards in this county besides those 
already named. No merchant mills, but the v.alleys are well furnished 
with common grist mills, cardi)5g machines, — blacksmiths, and other me- 
chanics. 

Population in 1820, 4,836— in 1830, 6,271. It belongs to the 14th 
jvidicial circuit and 7th district. Tax paid in 1S33, §!,032 46 — in 1834 
on lots, $28 30— land, ^''-oO 38—280 slave.s, $70 00—3-530 horse.s. 
$211 80—24 stud.s, $104 50— 2 coaches, $4 00— 16 carryalls, $16 00— 
Total, $1090 98. E-xpended in educating poor children in 1832, $515 43 
—in 1833, $520 93. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, 6cc. 



Crab Run, P. V. 154 ms. N. W., 
by VV. of R. and 196 S. W. by VV : 
of W., situated in the S. W. part of 
the county. A house of public en-j 
tertainment, a grist and a saw mill, 
a blacksmith's and a wheelwright's- 
shop are located here. 

FRANKLIN, P. V. and seat -of 
justice, 171 ms. N. W. by W. of R. 
and the same distance S. W. by W. 
of W., in lat. 38° 42' and long. 2° 
26' W. of W. C, situated on the north! 
bank of the South Branch of the Po-i 
tomac, 20 miles from its source. Itj 
contains btsides the ordinary county 
buildings, 30 dwelling houses, 1 com- 
mon school, 1 temperance and 1 bible 
society, 2 mercantile stores, 2 tan! 
yards, 3 saddlers, 1 hatter, 2 house) 



carpenters, 1 caianet and chair maker. 
1 printing office, 1 tailor, 2 black- 
smiths, 1 gunsmith, and 2 boot and 
[shoe makers. Population 250 per- 
sons; of whom 2 are resident attor- 
neys, and 1 a regular physicisn. 

County Courts are held on the 
Wednesday succeeding ihe 1st Tues- 
day in every month; — Qvarterly in 
March, June, Septeviber and Novem- 
ber. 

Judge Smith holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the 2(£ of May and Zd of Oc- 
tober. 

Hull's Store, P. O 164 miles 
from R. and 206 VV. of W. 

Oak Flat, P. U. 176 ms. from R. 
and 186 from W. 



POCAHONTAS, 



Pocahontas was established by act of the General Asbenibly in the 
year 1821, and formed from a portion of the counties of Bath, Pendleton 
and Randolph. It is bounded N by Randolph,— !" br ti.f Alleghany 



418 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— POCAHONTAS. 



mountains which separate it from Pendleton and Bath, — S. by Greenbrier, 
— and W. by Nicholas. Its mean length is 40 miles, mean breadth 17^ ; 
and its area 794 square miles: its mean lat. is 38° 20' N. and long. 3° W. 
of W. C. This county is one of the most elevated in the Union. Cheat 
river, a branch of the' Monongahela, rises in the northern part, — Gauley 
river, a branch of the Great Kanawha, rises in tlieAvestern part, and Green- 
brier river, a branch h'kewise of the Great Kanawha, rises in the extreme 
northeastern part, and flowing in a southwestern direction, nearly parallel 
with the main Alleghany range, passes through Greenbrier into Monroe, 
on the border of which it unites with New.river. Knapp's creek, the largest 
tributary which the Greenbrier receives in this county, rises at the foot ot 
the Alleghany, flows for some distance along its base, and then turning at 
right angles flows north west by Huntersville, and empties into the Green- 
brier a few miles below that town. The mean height of the arable soil of 
Greenbrier county is 1700 feet above the level of the ocean, and as it is 
situated lower down on the Greenbrier than the county of Pocahontas, it 
is -fair to presume that the height of the lowest part of the latter must be 
at least equal to 1800 feet above the ocean, which is equivalent to four de- 
grees of latitude. Greenbrier mountain enters Pocahontas on the N. E. 
and passes through to the S. W. — from its western side flow Gauley and 
Elk rivers. Thesurface is vary broken and rocky, but the southern part 
is quite productive of all the staples common to the same latitude, — towards 
the northeast the land is more barren. The principal timber ^vhich it pro- 
duces is white and black spruce, yevi, pine, white oak, chesnut, sugar 
maple, hickory, beech, v.-alaut, bock-eye, &.c= &lc. The inhabitants are 
honest, industrious, hospitable and enterprising citizens. Population in 
1830, 2,541. It belongs to the 17th judicial circuit and 9th district, ^^ax 
paid in 1833, ^386 09— in 1834 on lots, $13 92— on land $199 36—186 
slaves, $34 00—1154 horses, $92 76— 6 studs, $29 00—1 coach, $2 00— 
2 carryalls, $2 25. Total $373 29. Expended in educating poor chil- 
dren in 1832, $211 29— in 1833, $157 28. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &e. 



Cackley's p. O. 202 ms. N. W. 
by W. of R. and 244 from W., situ- 
ated 2 ms. W. of Greenbrier river, 
immediately on the main post road 
leading from Huntersville to I^ewis- 
burg, 12 ms, S. W. of the former, 
and 36 N. E. of the latter place. It 
contains several dwelling houses, 1 
mercantile store, 1 oil mill, 1 carding 
machine, 1 tan _vard, &c. &c. The 
country around is mostly level and 
fertile, producing well Indian corn, 
wheat, rye, oats, potatoes, flax, &c., 
and is an excellent grass country. 
This is called the Little Levels. First 
rate springs abound' in almost every 
direction, and most or all of them 
sink again after running a ^hort dis- 
ance. 



Green Bank, P. O. 2.00 ms. from 
R. and 242 W. of W., siluated on the 
north bank of Deer creek, six miles 
above its intersection with the Green- 
brier river, and 19 north of Hunters- 
ville. This is merely a post office, 
situated in the heart of a thickly set- 
tled neighborhood, which contains 1 
house of public worship, free for all 
denominations, called Deer Creek 
Union Meeting House, 5 common 
schools, 1 well organized temperance, 
bible, tract and Sunday school society, 
with a considerable library, 2 mer- 
cantile stores, several excellent coun- 
try mills, and various other mechan- 
ics. The land of the surrounding 
country' is beautifully diversified by 
hill and dale. The soil is rich, pro- 



WESTERN VIRGIMA— POCAHONTAS. 



419 



diicitig in abundance wheat, rye, oats, /Randolph co. and 43 from Lewisbiirg 
corn, «fcc. The principal pursuits of in Greenbrier county. There are 
the inhabitants are grazing and rais- near this village two sulphur springs, 



ing stock. There are large quanti- 
ties of butter, venison hams, ifec. tak- 
en to market from this section of 
country. The inhabitants are also 
expert in the manufacture of sugar 



3.1 id to possess good qualities. Popu- 
lation 125 persons; of whom 1 is a 
resident attorney. 

Counlij Courts are held on the \st 
Tuesday \\\ every month; Quarlerly 



from the maple tree. There is a very! in MttrcA, June, August, and Novem 
great curiosity in the meanders oilier. 

Deer creek. About .'j miles below' Judge Taylor holds his Circuit 
Green Bank, the creek runs several [Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
miles round a cun-siderable hill, and; ry on the 2d of May a?id October. 
thence back within thirty poles of the! " JMatthjewsville, P. O. 205 ms. 
place it had passed, aflording some! from R. and 247 W. of W., situated 
fine seats for manufactories, with suf-ion the main post road leading from 
ficieiit water powerto force machiaery| Huntersville to Clarksburg, the touc- 
to any extent. j ly seat of Harrison, 15 miles from 

HUNTERSVILLE, P. V. andl the former, and on Settlington's creek, 
county seat, 191 ms. N. W. by W.'a branch of the Greenbrier, 2.^ miles 
of R. and 233 S. W. by W. of W., from hs junction with the river. This 



situated in lat. 38° 12' N. and long 
3° i ' W. of \V. C. It is situated be- 
tween Greenbrier and Alleghany 
mountains, at an elevation above the 



post o/Hce is located in a densely set' 
tied neighborhood, in its immediate 
vicinhv are a considerable number 
of scattering dwelling houses, 1 house 



Atlantic of upwards of 1,800 feet, onlof public worship, (Presbyterian,) 1 
Knapp's creek, 6 miles from its junc-i school house and 1 merchant mill, 
tion with the Cireenbrier river. Ill with a populaiion of about 400. The 
contains besides the usual countyiland of the surrounding country is 
buildings, 23 dwelling houses, (most-l fertile, producing wheat, rye. oati, 
ly frame,) 3 mercantile .stores, 2 ta-jd^c, but is more generally famed for 
verns, and 1 school in which the or-! fine meadow and pasture grounds. 
dinary branches of English educa-' Knapp'.s Ckeek, P.O. 242 ms. S. 
tion are taught, 2 tailors, 2 house car-; W. of W. 

penters and cabinet makers, 1 boot' Traveller's Repose, P. O. 179 
and shoo maker, and 1 blacksmith; ms. from R. and 221 S. W. by W. of 
shop. There arc in this place 2 well! W., situated in a thickly settled neigh- 
organized bible classes, and 1 temper-i borhood, on the head of Greenbrier, 
ance society. A turnpike road has between the north and east forks of 
lately been located from the Warmjthat river, immediately on the main 
Springs in Bath county to Hunters-j post road leading from Stauntoil.to 
ville, thence to intersect the north-j Clarksburg, and 32 ms. from Hun- 
westcrn road between Clarksburg andj tcrsrille, the county seat. It contains 
Parkersburg, or to strike the Ohio! 12 dwelling house, 1 tayern, 1 .store, 
river below the latter place. Theiand several mechanics. The soil is 
road when finished will add greatly; productive of wheat, rye, oats, buck^ 
to the advancement of this village, wheat, potatoes, &c., affording exceU 
and the surrounding country, there| lent pasturage for stock. It is hound- 
being as fine lands in this section asled by various mountains, the most 
perhaps in any part of Virginia, noted is the Alleghany on the east, 
H'lntersville is 22 miles from thd the Laurel Ridge on the west, and the 
Warm Springs, 65 from Beverly in' Elk mouuiani on the north— which 



420 WESTERN VIRGINIA— PRESTON. 

still abounds with the elk. The soil I is froqueutly met with here. The 
of these mountains is rich and affords Cheat mountain turnpike runs thro' 
immense ranges for cattle, &c. The this place and the mail is received 
timber is generally sugar maple, once a week on horseback, 
chesnut, oak, and pine. The fir tree 



PRESTON. 

Preston was created by the Legislature in 1618, from a portion of 
Monongalia county. It is bounded N. by Fayette county of Pennsylvania, 
— E. by Alleghany county of Maryland, — S. by Randolph, — and W. by 
Monongalia Its mean length is 3f3 mileS; mean breadth 20; and area 601 
square miles. Its mean lat. is 39° SO' and long. 2° 38' W. of VV. C. Its 
extent and population have been somewhat increased, though we do not 
know precisely to what degree, since the taking of the last census and the 
publication of Boyee's map of the State, by extending its eastern border to 
the "Fairfax Stone," situated at the extreme southwestern angle of Mary- 
land. The main Alleghany chain runs near the eastern border of this 
county, and the Chesnut ridge separates it from Monongalia on the west. 
The body of the county is a valley between these two chains. Cheat river 
enters the southern side and winds to the N. Vv. dividing the county into 
two nearly equal sections. 

The general face of the county is mountainous, interspersed on the east- 
ern and western sides with large natural meadows called "glades," which 
afford support for large herds of cattle in simrnier, and in v;inter also, when 
it is mown and cured ior winter food. The glades are destitute of timber 
but covered in summer with grass and weeds, with frequent projecting 
points of timber, low bushes, &c. The soil of this section of the county 
is better suited to grass than grain, though small quantities of corn and 
wheat are grown in the glades, and abundant crops of oats, buckwheat and 
rye. The alluvial or bottom grounds are small but productive and many 
of the mountain and hill sides produce abundant crops of corn, wheat, rye, 
oats, &c. The principal water is Cheat river, about 180 yards wide at the 
Dunkard Bottom; though branches of the Monongahela and Youghiogany 
water a large part of the county. The general strata of rock so far as 
known, is a kind of sand stone, occasional portions of Avhich are intermixed 
with flinty pebbles so compact as to be used for mill stones to advantage ; 
but much ot it is easily wrought for building houses, &c. Slate and lime- 
stone is common : the county is abundantly supplied with bituminous coal, 
and specimens of iron ore are often found. Population in 1820, 3,480— 
1830, 5,144. This county belongs to the twentieth judicial circuit, and 
tenth district. Tax paid in 1833, $437 91— in 1834 on lots, $24 54— 
land $264 31—56 slaves, $14 00— 1SS2 horses, $112 92—17 studs, 
$73 50—2 carryalls, $3 00. Total $492 97. Expended in educating 
poor children in 1832, $306 94--in 1833, $361 92. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 

^Brandonville. P. V. 280 ms. N.la newly settled village, plea.santly 
W^ of R. and 202 from W. This is Isituated' in the centre of a rapidly 



WESTERN VlllGlNIA— PRESTON. 



421 



improving neighborhood, in the north- 
ern section of the county, about four 
jniles from the Pennsylvania line, on 
the road leading from Smitlifield in 
Pennsylvania to Morgantown, Vir- 
ginia. It contains 20 dwelling- 
houses, 1 house of public worship, 
(Methodist,) 1 tavern, 1 tan yard, 1 
saddler, 1 hatter, 1 wagon maker, 2 
cabinet makers, 1 wheelwright and 
chair maker. 1 silversmith, 1 tailor, 
1 blacksmith shop, 2 mcrcantiie 
stores, 1 common school, 1 temperance 
and I colonization society. Popula- 
tion KJU. 

EvANsviLLK, P. O. situated in the 
western part of the county, near the 
north western turn])ike road. 

German Skttlkmknt, P. O. 270 
ms. from R. and 270 N. W. by W. 
of W. situated 18 ms. S. E. of Kings- 
wood. This setdement, in the midst 
of which is situated a small village 
called Moruit Carmel, took its name 
from its first settlers, who Vvfere Ger- 
mans. It contains between 80 and 
100 dwelling hou.ses, besides me- 
chanic's shops, &.C , I house of public 
worship, free for all denominations, 2 
mercantile stores, 3 grist mills, 4 saw 
mills, 1 wool carding machine, 2 tan 
yards, 2 gun smiths, 4 blacksmith 
shops, 1 wheelwright, 1 wagon ma- 
ker, 1 millwright, several house car- 
penters, cabinet makers, house-join- 
ers, &;c. But the principal pursuit 
of the inhabitants is agriculture. 
This settlement is watered by tlie 
Youghiogany,the north fork of which 
heads near Mount Carmel, and is 
known by the name of Ryan creek. 
Wolf creek which empties into Cheat 
river, also heads near this place. The 
soil is of the first quality, and pro- 
ductive of all kinds of grain; and es- 
pecially productive of grass. An 
abundance of potatoes and turnips are 
raised in this section of countrv- 
The climate is cool and salubrious. 
Pure springs of never failing water 
flow in abundance through tliis set- 
tlement. The principal staple com- 



modities raised for market, are live 
stock of every discription, and large 
quantities of butler of the first quali- 
ity, &c. This settlement, like many 
others in Western Virginia, has been 
sealed up ever since the settling of 
the same, for want of suitable roads 
for transportation through the Alle- 
ghany mountains in order to unite in 
commerce with the eastern country. 
The northwestern turnpike road of 
Virginia from Winchester to Par- 
kersbnrg, passes immediately through 
the (ji-rman Settlement. This road 
is in rapid progress, and there is no 
grade through tiie Alleghany moun- 
tains that exceeds four and a half de-- 
grees. This ap))ropriation of money 
by the Legislature of Virginia is of 
the greatest utility to this section of 
the State. The number of families, 
which may be called attached to this 
settlement will not exceed 70, the ag 
gregale number of inhabitants about 
500. and what may be further worthy 
of remark (in Virginia,) that in this 
number are not more than three or 
four blacks. 

KINGWOOD, P. V. and seal 
of justice, 261 ms. irom R. and 183 
N. W. bv W. of VV., in lat. 39^~ 27' 
N. and long. 2° 45' W. of W. G, 
situated on a beautiful and healthy 
eminence, 2 ms. W. of Cheat river». 
20 E. of Morgantown, 43 from 
Clarksburg, in Harrison county, and 
60 from Beverly, in Randolph countv- 
It contains besides the ordinary couii- 
ty buildings, which are substantially 
built of stone, 25 dwelling houses, 3 
mercantile stores, 1 tanyard, and va- 
rious mechanics. Population about 
150 persons; of whom 3 are resi- 
dent attorneys, and 1 a regular phy- 
sician. 

County Courts are held on the 2^ 
Monday in every month: — Qvaiter- 
/// in March, May, August and No- 
fcmber. 

.TuDGE Fry holds his Circuit Su- 
perior Court of Law and Chancery, 
on the \st of April, aud September. 



422 WESTERN VIRGINIA— RANDOLPH. 

RANDOLPH. 

Randolph was established by act of Assembly in the year 1787, and 
formed from a portion of Harrison county. It is bounded N. by Preston, — 
N. E. by the Alleg-hany mountain, which separates it from Hardy, — E. by 
the same mountain, separating- it from Pendleton, — S. by Pocahontas, — S. 
W. by Nicholas, — W. l)y Lewis and Harrison, — and N/W. by iMononga- 
lia. Its mean length is 61)^ miles diminished by the difference which would 
be occasioned by taking from it that portion which is laid down in our 
maps as coterminous with Maryland, — which has been added to Preston, — 
its mean breadth 31; and its area ;i,()Gl square miles, diminished by the 
area of the above space alluded to: extending- in lat. from about 38^ 18' to 
39° 1 r N. and in long, from about 2" 15' to 3° 23' W of W. C. 

This county is one of the finest on the western side of the Alleghany 
mountains, and is made up of several parallel ranges of mountains with 
their intervening vallies. 'i'he largest of these mountains commencing on 
the east is the Alleghany, which runs north and soutli dividing this county 
from Pendleton; the next in order are Rich, Middle and Shaver mountains, 
running in the same direction. At the foot of the latter, flows Shaver's 
Fork, which is stocked with some of the finest fish which the western wa- 
ters afibrd. This stream empties into the Monongahela, 12 miles below 
Morgantown. The next mountain is the Valley mountain, which derives 
its name from Tygart's valley. This valley constitutes a considerable por- 
tion of the county, being about 35 miles in length, and 2 in breadth, and a 
body of as fine land as any in Western Virginia, and in a high state of im- 
provement. Through this valley flows the middle branch of the Mononga- 
hela, or Tygart's valley river, to which it gives source. The next moun- 
tain is the Laurel, which runs also a north and south course, the whole 
length of the valley; at the extromity of which it makes a bend and takes 
a northeast difcctioii, till it meets Cheat rivi'r, whence it flows nearly in a 
north course, till it enters the State of Pennsylvania. At the foot of Ty- 
gart's valley, where the Laurel hill makes its angh; to the east, Chester river 
breaks through the mountain. The valley and mountains pr<'senting the 
strongest evidence that at some early day they had formed a lake. These 
mountains alTord some of the finest streams of water in Western Virginia, 
the principal of w^hich are tlie Dry fork — Laurel fork — CJlade fork — and 
Shaver's fork — all handsome streams, having their rise in the S. W. part of 
the county, running parallel within a few miles of each other, and after tra- 
versing a considerable distanc(> through the county emptying into Cheat river. 
The mountains are well stocked with the fine.-st timber, such as every de- 
scription of the oak, poplar, cherry, pine, fir, red cedar, &,c, — and they are 
almost a mass of stone coal and iron ore. The soil of these mountains is 
very rich, and abounds with lime stone, slate and freestone. In some parts 
of these mountains are found small caverns or caves, in which is found a 
kind of copperas — fit for dye, and which is used for that purpose,— and 
along some of the water courses is found the allum peeping out of the joints 
of the rocks, forming in the shape of icicles. Among all these watercourses 
and low grounds are found salt springs. There has been salt made to a 
considerable amount, but for the want of funds and men of enterprise, these 
useful minerals remain in their natural state. 

In this county are a considerable number of fine .'^to;•k farms, which graze 
and raise annuully l\<r marlc.'t live .stock" of every description, which is the 



WESTERN V I KG I M A— R A N IH )EPI I. 



423 



principal soiirco of its wealth, 'riioio were raised aiui .sent to marlcct from 
this comity ilurinj,^ tlie past year ending INov'r 1st, 18o3, 1,500 head of 
horned cattle, 30t) sheep, and 100 horses. 

Poj)uhition in 1830, 5,000. It belongs to the I8th judicial circuit, and 
0th district. Tax paid in 1833, ^OlS— in 1834, on lots, $16 56 — on land, 
!?i03 93— 144 slaves, )?36 00— 2 133 horses, SI 27 98— 8 studs, l5>46 00 — 
3 coaches, ^G 00 — 3 carryalls, ft3 00 — 'I'otal, SG39 47. Expended in 
educating poor children in 1832, ft280 04 — in 1833, $600 09. 

TOWNS. VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 

BEVERLY, P. V. and seat o/"jdists, are met with. This village con- 
justice, 210 ms. N. W. by VV. of R. tains a population of 166 whites, of 
and 221 S. W. of W. — in lat. 38°50'|whom two are resident attornies, and 
N. and long. 2° 55' W. of W. C. — two regular physicians, — 16 slaves 
situated near the centre of Tygart's and 2 free colored — Total, 184. 
Valley, near Tygart'.s Valley river. County Courts are held oji the Atk 
on a handsome plain, stretched out be- 1 Mo?/r/^7/ in every month; — Quarter- 



tween Phillis's creek, and Dotson's 
run. The former entering the river 
a little above, and the latter about a 
quarter of a mile below the town. — 
Beverly contains besides the public 
builduigs, 3 mercantile stores, 2 ta- 
verns, I common school, 1 tanyard, 2 



ly in March, June, August and .Vo- 
r ember. 

Circuit Superior Courlsof Law and 
Chancery are held on the 19/// of A- 
pril and \3th September by Judge 

DuNC.W. 

BiLLSBURG, P. O. 240 ms. from R. 



saddlers, 2 boot and shoe factories, 3 and 224 from W. 
blacksmith shops, 1 hatter, 1 wagon | Boothe's Ferry, P. O. 240 ms. 
maker, 1 house carpenter, 2 tailors, from R. and 299 W. of W. — Situated 
<kc. — This village is distant 60 miles on the cast side of Tygart's VaHev 
nearly due S. from Morgantown, in j river, 20 ms. N. W. of' Beverly, and 
Monongalia county, and 45 S. E. of' 30 S. E. of Clarksburg, in Harrison 
('larksburg, in Harrison county. The'county. Twa considerable streams 
Valley river has its source in the enter Tygart's Valley river above this 



mountain, and courses along nearly in 
a northwardly direction through the 
valle}-. The land on its borders pos- 
sesses a considerable degree of fertili- 
ty; and the eye in traversing it be- 
holds some fine mountain .scenery, 
(being completely environed with 
spurs of the Alleghany mountain,) as 
well as some handsome farms in a 
high state of cultivation. Proceeding 
down the Valley, at different points 
from 12 to IS miles below the town, 
common roads cross the mountains, 
leading to the lower, and thicklv set- 
tled parts of the county. As we pro- 
ceed down the Valley, at various in- 
tervals, fine farms, mercantile stores, 
and houses of public worship, for 



P. O. Middle river 7 miles above, 
and Buchanan river only four and a 
half miles above. The P. O. is lo- 
cated on a farm of rich bottom lands. 
There are located at this point 3 dwel- 
ling houses, 1 saw and 1 grist mill 
running two pair of stones, and a 
wool carding machine. There are in 
the vicinity four coal banks, two of 
which are within a few yards of the 
Ijoat landing; there is also a great 
quantity of iron ore of the best quali- 
ty, within a few yards of the river 
and near the coal banks. 'I'he soil is 
good, and produces corn, wheat, rye, 
oats, &c. in abundance, and is c([?ial 
to any country for timothy and clover. 
The river is the line of separation be- 



Presbyterians, Baptists and Meiho-,twecn Harrison and Randolph for 



424 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— ROCKBRIDGE. 



about 4-^ miles above, and as far be- 
low as this county extends. It is about 
40 miles to the mouth of this river, at 
which point it unites with the West fork 
river and becomes the Monongahela. 
The river at this place is about 120 
yards wide, and has to be crossed in 
a boat about 8 months in the year. 
The road leading from Clarksburg 
crosses at this ferry. The northwest- 
ern turnpike has been laid out to cross 
about 16 miles below. 

Gladv Creek Cross Roads, P. 
O. 244 ms. i'roui R. and 220 from W. 

Hi'TTON.sviLLE, P. O. 199 milos 
from R. and 23 1 W. of W. C. 

Lekdsvii-le, p. V. 218 ms. from 
R. and 220 from W. — situated at the 
passage of Tygart's Valley river, 
through the Laurel mountain, 8 ms. 
N. N. E. of Beverly, on the main 
post road leading from Piiiladelphia 
and Baltimore through Winchester lo 



Pittsylvania, Pa. This is merely a 
post oflice, situated on a farm in the 
midst of a flourishing part of the 
country. 

MiEosvii.Mv, P. V. 256 ms. from R. 
and 208 W. of W. It contains 5 
dwelling houses, 1 housf of entertain- 
ment, 1 gunsmith, 1 blacksmith's shop, 
1 tanyard, 1 saddler and a distillery. 
In tiiis little village is established a 
small ingenious weaving manufactory, 
with several looms of various descrip- 
tions, executing a variety of figured 
work. The soil of the surrounding 
country is rich; and stone coal is eve- 
ry where close at hand. 

Skidmoue's p. O. — The distances 
are not given on the P. O. list. 

Western Ford, P. O. 240 ms. 
W. of R. and 251 from W. 

Wvatt's Ferry, P. O. 245 ins. 
from R. and 229 from W. 



ROCKHRJ- 



RocKBRiDGK was established by act of Assembly in 1778, and formed 
from a portion of Augusta and Botetourt counties. It is bounded N. by 
Augusta, — E. by the Blue Ridge which separates it from Nelson, — S. E. 
by the same mountain, separating it from Amherst, — S. by Bedford, — S. W. 
by Botetourt, and VV^. by Alleghany and Mill mountains, a portion of the 
Great Kittatinnv chain which separates it from Alleghany, and N. W. by 
the same separating it from Bath. Its mean lat. is about 37° 45' N. and 
long. 2° 30' W. of W. C. — Its mean length is 31 mean breadth 22; and 
area OSO square miles. This county is principally watered by North river, 
branch of James river, and its tributaries. It flows diagonally through the 
county from the N. W. to the S. E. and joins the main branch of James 
river at the foot of the Blue Ridge, when their united waters force a passage 
through. l"he name of this county is taken from the celebrated Natlkal 
Bridge, of which an account is given below. There are in the county 10 
mercantile stores, 6 iron forges, three furnaces, 13 houses of public wor- 
ship, (of which are Presbyterian,) and 24 grist and merchant mills; 
besides those mentioned in the Towns, Villages, &c. Much of the soil is 
of the first quality, and generally in a high state of cultivation. 

Population in l'820, 1 1,945— in 1830, 14,244. It belongs to the 12th judi- 
cial circuit, and 6lh district. Tax paid in 1833, $3131 41 — in 1834, on 
lots, 8208 58— on land, $1831 33—2037 slaves, $509 25—5250 horses, 
$315 00—21 studs, $206 00— 37 coaches, $98 21—21 carryalls, $21 70 
— 7 gigs, $5 20 — Total, $319'5 27. Expended in educating poor children 
in 1832, $873 76— in 1333, $748 40. 



WESTERN VIRGINIA -ROCKBRIDGE 



425 



TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Balcony Falls, P. O. 153 nis. 
from R. and 210 S. W. by W. of W. 
These falls arc situated on James ri- 
ver, near the western extremity of the 
James river canal, and form the divid- 
ing line between the counties of Rock- 
bridge, Bedford, and Amherst. The 
scenery near this spot is highly pic- 
turesque. After toiling for a consid- 
erable distance through a wild and 
rugged country — on turuingthe sharp 
angle of the mountain, the river sud- 
denly expands to the breadth, and as- 
sumes the quiet and placid appearance 
of a lake. Immediately opposite, two 
of the most stupendous peaks of the 
Blue Ridge, rise directly from the 
banks. The whole stream is suddenly 
narrowed by the projecting sides of 
the mountain, and precipitates itself 
in one entire sheet over an artificial 
dam, which is extended across the bed 
of the river, between the most elevat- 
ed points of the peaks. After the fall 
the tumultuous stream is soon lost 
sight of, by the windings of the chan- 
nel. The dam was erected for the 
purpose of supplying with its back 
water that portion of the canal which 
runs upon the edge of the fall. This 
portion of the canal, seven miles in 
extent, was constructed by the state at 
the cost of $280,000. About two 
miles of this canal is in the county of 
Rockbridge. 

Bath Iron Works, P. O. 167 
ms. W. of R. and 209 S. W by W. 
of W.— Situated in the southern part 
of the county, on the northeastern 
bank of James river, within ten miles 
of its source, — 15 miles from Lexing- 
ton, — and 22 from the Warm Springs 
in Bath county. These works con- 
sist of a furnace and forge, both built 
on an extensive scale — the furnace is 
40 feet high, and calculated for mak- 
ing 30 tons of pig iron pr. week, but 
has never yet reached that amount. 
The forge is built for running six 
fires, and will annually forge 300 toin 
51 



of bar iron — The furnace 700 tons of 
pig metal, and a large quantity of 
castings. The two consuming 300 
thousand bushels of charcoal per an- 
num. The number of operatives em- 
ployed are sixty-five. Yet there are 
something like 150 persons supported 
by its operations, including women 
and children. Attached to this es- 
tablishment is a large farm, a part of 
which, supposed to be 350 acres, is 
first rate bottom land, — by which the 
proprietors are enabled to raise nearly 
their full supply of grain; the quan- 
tity required being 4,500 bushels; — 
from 3,000 to 3,500 bushels of which 
are raised annually from the farm. — 
This establishment is owned by 
Messrs. A. W. & M. W. Davis. 

Belle Valley, P. O. 147 ms. W. 
of R. and 188 S. W. by W. from W. 
— Situated in the northeastern part of 
the co\uity. 

Brownsburg, p. V. 143 ras. N. 
W. of R. and 185 from W.— Situated 
12 miles N. E. of Lexington, on Maf- 
fits creek, and on the direct route from 
Staunton to Lexington. It contains 
20 dwelling houses, 3 mercantile 
stores, 1 tavern, 1 tanyard, 1 saddler, 

2 tailors, 3 wheelwrights, 1 cabinet 
maker, 2 smith shops, 2 boot and shoe 
factories, 1 house carpenter, 1 hatter, 
1 manufacturing flour mill, and i grist 
mill. In the immediate vicinity there 
is a large and spacious house of pub- 
lic worship, long known by the name 
of New Procidence meeting house. 
Population 120 persons; of whom 

3 are physicians, Brownsburg is lo- 
cated in a flourishing and thickly set- 
tled neighborhood. 

Buffalo Forge, P. O. 156 ms. 
from R. and 206 from W. — Situated 
8 miles W. of Lexingtori. 

Cedar Grove. P. O. 145 ms. N. 
W. of R.— Situated ten miles N. E. 
of Lexington. It contains 2 mercan- 
tile store?, and 1 m.anufacturing flour 
mill 



426 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— ROCKBRIDGE. 



Fairfield, P. O. 144 ms. from 
R. and 186 from W. — Situated on one 
of the post routes from Lexington to 
Staunton, 13 ms. N. N. E. from the 
former, and 24 from the latter. It 
contains about 20 dwelling houses, 1 
house of public worship, free for all 
denominations, 2 taverns, 1 mprcantile 
store, 1 tanyard, 1 saddler, 2 boot and 
shoe factories, 2 house carpenters and 
1 smith's shop. Population 130 per- 
sons; of whom 2 are physicians. 

Fancy Hill, P. O. 164 ms. from 
R. and 205 S. W. of W. It is plea- 
santly situated nine miles from Lex- 
ington, in a fertile and well watered 
country. It contains several dwelling 
houses, 1 mercantile store, 1 extensive 
tavern, well kept, and which receives 
much company in the summer season, 
and I tailor's shop. A physician re- 
sides here. 

Leb.\non Forge, situated on the 
North fork of James river. These 
iron works, owned by Messrs. Ma- 
thews <.5" Bryan, are now in extensive 
operation, manufacturing pig metal 
into bar iron. The establishment con- 
sists of a forge, with a smith's shop 
and saw mill as appendages. The 
apparatus employed consists of three 
refining fires, one chafry which draws 
bar iron, and two forge hammers, 
weighing from five to six hundred 
weight each. The average amount 
manufactured at this forge, from the 
metal, or pigs, is one hundred and fif- 
ty tons of bar iron annually. It re- 
quires 225 tons of metal, or pigs, to 
make 150 tons of bar iron. The 
number of operatives necessarily em- 
ployed at this establishment, in manu- 
facturing the iron, are 35, and the ag- 
gregate number of persons supported 
by it are 70. Ten hands are employ- 
ed in making the iron, 2 in the black- 
smith's shop. 1 sawyer, 4 colliers, 8 
wood cutters, 2 wood carriers, 1 wa- 
goner, 5 farmers, 1 clerk and mana 
ger, and 1 overseer, the balance being 
women and children; — out of the 35] 
actively employed, 8 have families. — { 



In the vicinity of this forge is a house 
of public worship, (Methodist,) and 1 
manufacturing flour mill. One mile 
below this establishment is located 
Mabvrry's Iron Works, employing 
the same number of operatives as the 
one above, the same quantity of ma- 
chinery, and manufacturing the same 
v.'eight of bar iron annually. The 
country around is rich, and abounds 
with iron ore of the first quality. 

LEXINGTON, P. T. and^Vaio/ 
Justice, 156 ms. N. W. of R. and 198 
from W. in lat. 37° 14' N. and long. 
,2° 21' W. of W. C. — situated on a 
[gentle ascent, a few rods from the 
I north bank of the North river, a 
! branch of James river, 10 miles above 
its junction, and 35 N. W. of Lynch- 
burg. The act of Assembly of 1778, 
I which authorised the formation of the 
county, also directed the location of 
this town. Its buildings, like those 
of all new towns, were constructed of 
wood. In 1794 they Avere nearly all 
destroyed by fire, — since that time, 
they have been erected of more dura- 
ble materials, and with more regard 
to regularity. The number of houses 
it now contains, besides the ordinary 
county buildings, are about 150, most- 
ly of brick, with 2 houses of public 
worship, (1 Presbyterian and 1 Metho- 
dist.) There are 8 mercantile stores, 
4 taverns, 1 book store, 1 printing of- 
fice, from which a weekly paper is 
issued. 2 tinplate works, 2 watch ma- 
kers and silversmiths, 3 hatters, 2 wa- 
gon makers, 2 tanyards, 5 saddlers, 5 
boot and shoe factories, 2 blacksmiths, 
2 cabinet makers, 4 house carpenters 
and 1 bricklayer. 

Lexington was formerly the great 
thoroughfare to the west, from the 
more eastern parts of Virginia, and 
though other more direct routes have 
been established, it still continues to 
be much travelled, by wagons from 
Tennessee to Baltimore, &c. laden 
with such articles, as will return 
an ample profit, besides defraying 
the expenses of transportation, &c. 



I 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— ROjCKERIDGE. 



427 



such as beeswax, tallow, feathers, and i to bu about 000 persons; of whomOare 
other articles of produce. These wa- attorneys, and 4 rt-giilar physicians. 



gons return laden with goods for thf 
western merchants. 

In the vicinity of Lexington is a 
state arsenal, in which are deposited 
about 30,000 stand ol arms, guarded 
by a Captain and 30 men. 

An Academy was incorporated in 
this town in 1782, under the name ol 
Liberty Hall Academy; and in 1812 
it was chartered as a college, called 
Washinoton Collkge, from Gene- 
ral Washington, who endowed it with 
100 shares in the James river canal, 
which produced, in 1821, an annual 
income of $2,400. "This donation 
constitutes the only part of its funds 
that are now productive, and may be 
estimated at $25,000. Its other funds 
consist also of donations, one devised 
by a private citizen of Lexington, es- 
timated at $50,000, when relieved 
from certain debts of the testator, and 
another from the Cincinnati Society 
of Virginia, on their voluntary disso- 
lution, amounting to $15,000, but not 



County Cou.rts are held on the 
Monday before the 1st Tvesriay in 
every month: — Quarterly in March, 
June, Avgual and November. 

CircuitSuperior Courts of Law and 
Chancery are held on the \6t/i of A- 
pr Hand Stplcmbc /■, by Ju dg e Thomp- 
son. 

N.\TURAL Bridge, P. O. 172 ms. 
S. W. of R. and 21 3 S. W. by W. of 
W. — situated in the southern part of 
the county, in lat. o7° 33' N. and long. 
2° 34' W'. of W. C. 

We present a faithful description of 
this extraordinary natural curiosity 
from the notes of a traveller, published 
not long since in the periodical press. 

" By the uniform admission of all 
those who have visited this great natu- 
ral curiosity, it has justly acquired a 
celebrity unequalled by any other in 
this countr}^ and the increasing num- 
ber of visiters to this place, still con- 
tinues to awaken the attention of -the 
curious and philosophic throughout 



yet drawn out of the hands in which jthe world. Its location is in tlie coun- 
it was deposited; making in all $90,-jty of Rockbridge, to which it gives 
000." There are two buildings ofiname, 15 miles from Lexington, and 
brick, which afford accommodations 45 from Lynchburg, through one of 
for 50 or 60 students; and a library Uvhich places it is usually approached 
of 1,500- volumes. It is pleasantly |by strangers. The mean height of 
situated; its expenses for education jihe bridge, from the stream running 
are not high; but its students havejunderneath it to its upper surface, is 
novel been very nuuierous. — Numberj215 feet 6 inches, its average width is 
in 1333, 46. SO feet, its length, measured across 

A large, handsome and capacious from the indentations on either side of 
brick building has lately been erected, the high and nearly perpendicular 



intended for the philosophical appa- 
ratus, &c. which are sufficiently am- 
ple. The faculty consists of a presi- 
dent, two professors, and a tutor. 

Ann* S.mith Academy is also lo- 
cated in this town for the education of 



rocks upon which it rests, is 93 feet, 
and its thickness, on both sides, is 55 
feei. 

The stupendous arch constituting 
the bridge is of lime stone lock, co- 
vered to the depth of from 4 to 6 feet 



young ladies. It occupies a large and ; with alluvial and clayey earth, and 
handsome edifice, in w^hich are teach-^based upon huge rocks of the same 
ers of all the requisite branches of;geological character, the summits of 
such an institution. There are thrpe| which are 90 feet, and their bases 50 
public libraries in this town. |feet asunder, and whose rugged sides 

Population not given in the tabular [form the wild and awful chasm span- 
^eturasof the last census, but supposed ;ned by the bridge The. bridge is 



428 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— ROCKBRIDGE. 



guarded, as if by the design of nature, 
by a parapet of rocks, and by trees 
and shrubbery, firmly embedded in 
the soil, so that a person travelling 
the stage road running over it, would, 
if not informed of the curiosity, pass 
it unnoticed. It is also worthy of re- 
mark, that the creation of a natural 
bridge at this place has contributed, 
in a singular manner, to the conve- 
nience of man, inasmuch as the deep 
ravine over which it sweeps, and 
through which traverses the beautiful 
" Cedar Creek," is not, otherwise, 
easily passed for several miles, either 
above or below the bridge; and, con- 
sequently, the road running from north 
to south with an aclivity of 35 degrees, 
presents the same appearance in soil, 
growth of trees and general charac- 
ter, with that of the neighboring scene- 
ry. The bridge is not to be seen, 
therefore, in its native grandeur and 
sublimity by passing over or around 
it, but only from a position nearly un- 
der it, or within the valley near by. 

The first view commonly obtained 
by strangers of the bridge, or iis conti- 
guous scenery, is by a n eager approach 
totheedgeof the bridge, or to the brink 
of the right of it, &. looking over into the 
gulf below. Here language is inca- 
pable of expressing the emotions with 
which the scene is viewed, nor is it 
possible for the imagination to sketch 
the scene in a manner to equal the re- 
ality. The spectator becomes sudden- 
ly and forcibly impressed with the 
apparent danger of hi.s situation, and 
trembling with fear, he involuntary 
shrinks back and crouches to the 
earth. As he approaches the brink 
of the precipice, his eye is attracted to 
the broad mass of perpendicular rock 
upon the opposite side of the chasm, 
and as he nears the jutting crags and 
throws the sight along down the wild 
and rugged sides, now boldly opposed 
to his view, — straining with anxious 
gaze to find a resting place, still per- 
ceiving no termination to the yawn- 
ing abyss, a shuddering horror comes 



over him, and a wild delirium seizes 
his senses, and he unconsciously re- 
coils from the unfathomable gloom, 
and the awful gulf below him ! Has- 
tening from the spot, he becomes con- 
scious only of the irresistible influ- 
ence of the mind over the body, on 
recognizing himself removed from 
the scene of danger, still he is haunt- 
ed by the ideas to which the scene has 
given birth, and which, resting unwil- 
lingly upon his mind, often lash his 
feelings into agonies! 

Such are, indeed, the perceptions 
and reflections of those of lively sen- 
sibility and active cautiousness, who, 
for the first time, visit this wonderful 
and magnificent scenery; yet there 
are those who view it with apparent 
insensibility and unconsciousness, and 
who steadilj-look down into the abyss, 
"yet never suffer joint to tremble." 

This view of "the great natural 
curiosity" however, is but partial, and 
even yet, incapable of calling up those 
ideas of sublimity and greatness which 
are afforded the spectator by another 
position. Turning around the elevat- 
ed ground north of the bridge, and 
coming gradually along to its south- 
ern base, then winding around an 
abrupt point of the hill, the anxious 
spectator is brought into a foot path 
declining along the rocks, beside the 
clifTon the one side and the busy lit- 
tle creek on the other, when, suddenly 
looking upward, he beholds the splen- 
did arch of the bridge m all its sub- 
limity and natural grandeur. Here 
indeed, does the astonished observer 
find language too feeble to give utter- 
ance to his impressions! 

"Fancy then; 



Unequal fails beneath the task, 
Ah ! what shall language doV 

Mute astonishment succeeds the 
emotions with which the stranger 
had before been impressed, and now, 
unconsciously fixed to the spot, he 
gazes with wonder and admiration 
upon the lofty arch, springing like a 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— ROCKBRIDGE. 



429 



spirit over the tremendous gulf, and 
throwing' its massive sides and elhe- 
rial summit high against the heavens. 
No adequate idea of the " Natural 
Bridge" is to be obtained from the 
elforts of either the pencil or pen, and 
though both have attempted a descrip- 
tion, yet neither have approximated 
reality. From this view, the beholder 
is led to the comparison of natural ob- 
jects with which he has been fiimiliar, 
and himself shrinks into insignifi- 
cance when he becomes tiie subject. 
Never was there a more fit place to 
observe the littleness of man, and the 
omnipotence of God! — No reflective 
mind can, with such a scene present- 
ed to its faculties, remain unimpressed 
with its own nothingness, and unaf- 
fected by feelings of adoration to the 
Great Supreme. With this view of 
the subject before him, and " looking 
from nature up to nature's God," the 
language of the poet would not ap- 
pear to him inapt: — 

In the vast and the minute we see 
The xinambitious footste])s of the God 
Who gives the lustre to an insect's wing. 
And wheels his throne upon the rolling 
world. 

The relative position of the specta- 
tor, at this time, and place, in regard 
to the bridge and most of the stupen- 
dous scenery connected with it, is de- 
cidedly more favorable than any other. 
Here within one grand view, js the 
towering arch surmounted by high 
trees, with vigorous foliage and sharp 
projecting rocks, .strongly implanted 
in the soil. Here the whole of the 
high, and apparently unsupported 
mass, is .cast boldly against the field 
of deep blue sky, and thereby brought 
out in vivid contrast and grand relief, 
every object stands strongly pourtray- 
ed upon the broad etherial canvass, 
while the varied tints, the sweeping- 
dashes of natural shades, the coarse 
masses of deep black, with the occa- 
sional brushes of strong lights, all are 
well defined and deeply toned within 
the rugged outlines, compose, en 



masse, the most magnificent and fin- 
ished picture that ever came from the 
hand of nature. 

-Who can paint 



Like natural Can imitation boast, 
Amidst his gay creation, hues like hersl 

Here too, on either side, the pre- 
cipitous clifTs rise up in portentous 
grandeur with 

Pendant rocks that nod into the world, 
And mock our eyes with air. 

The observer, anxious to get a view 
of the whole of this rude and roman- 
tic scenery, naturally traverses the ra- 
vine, yet fearfully overawed by the 
impending rocks, he feels in momen- 
tary danger of being ground to dust 
by the falling of projecting rocks, but 
which, though held apparently by 
feeble tenure, have maintained their 
places for ages. On looking up frorr^ 
under the bridge, the fear of destruc- 
tion from the overhanging mass be^ 
comes almost irresistible, yet the 
grandeur of the arch induces suffi- 
cient curiosity to forego the apparent 
danger. The bridge here presents its 
most imposing appearance, though its 
character is less sublime from the na- 
ture of the position. The beholdey 
is here more forcibly struck with awe 
and terror than from any other situa^ 
tion in which it is viewed. The ex- 
pansive dimensions, the grand over- 
sweeping continuity, and the ponder- 
ous massiveness of the entire rock ar^ 
here forcibly displayed to the wonder- 
ing gaze. Here also, running up he- 
side you to the very arch, are the 
craggy abutments upon which it rests, 
presenting altogether, the hugest body 
of continuous rock ever at one time 
thrown open to view. 

Speculation is naturally put in ope- 
ration to account for the causes where- 
by " with disruption vast," this rock 
was cloven asunder. vVlthough sci- 
entific men may differ in many par- 
ticulars upon this subject, and al- 
though it is both more common and 



430 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— ROCKBRIDGE. 



more easy to say that the -whole is a 
phenominon caused "by some great 
convulsion," than to assign reasons 
and determine causes for this phe- 
nomenon, yet, it is thought, no one who 
has investigated the causes most likely 
to produce this result, and the evi- 
dences which those causes have left 
behind, of their existence and opera- 
tion, will arrive at any other conclu- 
sion than that the principle cause was 
water. It will be observed that the 
eastern or upper side of the bridge, 
has been worn under for several feet, 
that the part thus rounded, tunnel-like, 
is smooth and unlike any other por- 
tion of the contiguous rock, if we ex- 
cept the indentation on the southern 
side of the perpendicular rock, which 
present similar appearances, evidently 
produced from the same cause. — 
Viewing the course of the ravine, and 
the consequent direction of the water 
which filled it, the indication of the 
agency of water in the formation of 
the bridge, is even more determinate 
in the latter circumstance than in the 
former. The projecting body of rock 
upon the opposite side of the chasm, 
running uniformly upward from its 
base, and opposing an invulnerable 



agency of water, there are in the 
neighborhood of the bridge, numerous 
and certain proofs of there having 
been vast bodies of water which 
poured down the surrounding vallies 
and ravines, overtopping some of the 
high hills, and embodying themselves, 
at last, within this grand reservoir. 
The magnificent and rocky sides of 
this great depository, Avhich is of 
nearly uniform height for some two 
or three miles above, directed the ac- 
cumulated waters down against the 
firm bridge. Here they are met with 
this bold obstruction throwing itself 
proudly athwart the rushing waters, 
as if saying, in a spirit of defiance, 
"thus far thou shalt come and no far- 
ther!" Forced from its course by this 
obstinate and haughty barrier, the 
overflowing current was turned 
round the declivity on the south, and 
ran down the hill about the points of 
rocks, and came again into the deep 
valley some thirty rods below. Along 
its diverted channel may be seen all 
the evidences of a water course pour- 
ing over a rockjr bed. 

The proudly opposing rock was 
not destined, however, to stop foreA'er 
the march of the dashine" stream, and 



front, of sufficient magnitude to have in process of time, the onward force 



turned the current of the mighty wa 
ters, and to have thrown its force di- 
rectly again.st those parts upon the 



of the current, with the means which 
it had brought to its aid, prevailed, 
and increasing its force with every 



other side, where tTie peculiarities; advantage, the breach enlarged and 
before mentioned are seen, affords the 'admitted, at length, the stream to roll 
most natural proot of the influence of forward lor ages unresisted. Upon 



water in the creation of the bridge. 
Those who have observed the opera 
tion of water in the wearing away of 
ro<"ks, the large and deep pot holes, 
the rounded and smooth surfaces 
given to rocks, by the long and con- 
tinued action of small stones, and the 
friction of water, will here observe 
similar appearances. The entire 
mass of rock is of limestone, and 
therefore more easil}^ worn away than 
silicious stone; whose more indurated 



the summit of distant hills are to be 
found marine fossils, and their im- 
pressions Avithin the fragments of par- 
tially decomposed limestone rocks, 
while along their sides and within the 
vallies are pot-holes, smooth fissures 
and rounded points of rocks, all of 
which prove the existence and action 
of water at these places at some period 
of time; the course and parallel of 
these indications, are also directed to- 
wards the great receptacle as before 



surfaces have fretted for ages against intimated. 

it. Besides these evidences of the (The und\ilating surfice of the snr- 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— ROCKBRIDGE. 



431 



rounding country must have presented 
from the hridjre, when thus aduiiltiniJ- 
the varied streams to dash along its 
rallies, one of the most splendid scenes 
in nature ) 

The chasms, both east and west of 
the bridge, do not afford strong evi- 
dences of the continued action of wa- 
ter, but rather of some violent rend- 
ing of the massive rock. And this 
may be rationally supposed, without 
opposing the conclusions to which we 
have arrived in regard to the agency 
of water in the formation of the 
bridge; yet even this is reconcileable 
whh the solution of this phenomenon, 
by supposing portions of the rock to 
have fallen, from time to time, by the 
action of water within the .fissures, or 
to have been cleft off by objects car- 
ried forcibly down the current of the 
stream. The theory of an immense 
cavern terminated at the bridge, and 
opening from either side, is certainly 
plausible, and does not militate against 
that so manifestly true, in respect to 
the bridge. The summit of this ca- 
vern is supposed to have extended 
along the ravine and high precipitous 
rocks, for some distance, and even- 
tually to have fallen down, by which 
the deep chasm is laid open to view. 
This is believed by some, at least, 
whose judgment and scientifie know- 
ledge are entitled to the utmost re- 
spect, j 

It may appear to the curious wor-l 
thy of remark, that in the centre ofl 
the grand arch, under the bridge,! 
there is to be observed with outspread i 
wings, the American Eagle of gigan-; 
tic size, covering with one of its wings, 
the head of the British Lion. These! 
objects certainly appeared plainly de-{ 
lineated to the writer, as they have 
ever appeared to all to whom they 
have been pointed out. Others have 
also discovered the head of Washing- 
ton and various other objects, but 
which it was not permitted to the ken 
of the writer to discover. 

These appearances are formed by 



moss hanging from the high over- 
lianging arch. To this arch it has 
ever been the attempt of ''isiters to 
throw a stone, and we recollect it to 
have been stated, years gone by, that 
the only successful competitor, in this 
feat of physical power was General 
Washington, who, it was also said, 
cut his name higher than any other 
person, upon the perpendicular rock. 
It is, certainly, a feat requiring no 
common degree of personal strength 
to throw a stone to the bridge, and 
kw have been successful in the at^ 
tempt; though one individual is said 
to have thrown upon the very sum-* 
rnit, (probably with a sling,) from 
whence the stone was taken at the 
time. Names are to be seen "in eve- 
ry variety" along the rocks and upon 
the sides under the bridge, but that of 
Washington is not now to be discov^ 
ered. A young man, it is said ambi- 
tious to cut his name above that of 
Washington, became so situated, up 
the towering cliff' that he was unable 
to recover himself, or to descend: to 
effect the one, he would inevitably in- 
cur the certainty of being precipitated 
to the bottom, while to climb still high- 
er and gain the top, appeared impos- 
sible. In this state of awful uneer- 
taint}^ between the possibility of life 
and a dreadful death, little hope ap- 
peared to the one, while the other 
seemed certain, and urged by an ef- 
fort as desperate as the love of life, he 
attempted to ascend to the giddy 
height. This ahernative nerved him 
with more than mortal power, and 
strange as it may seem to every one 
who may ever look at the spot from 
whence he started, the shuddering 
height at which he aimed, and the 
apparent impossibilities he surmount- 
ed, he arrived nervless and prostrate 
at the verge, and — was safe. 

Visiters to the " Natural Bridge of 
Virginia," will ever find a rich and 
varied field for observation: for, in 
addition to the objects of curiosity 
which have been enumerated and de- 



432 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— ROCKINGHAM. 



scribed, " the overhanging rocks" and 
numerous other grand and interesting 
objects up the valley and within the 
neighborhood, there is " Powell's 
mountain," upon which are found the 
marine fossils before mentioned, and 
within which are " Johnson's cave," 
affording an easy descent among a 
variety of subterranean cavities, and 
" Chapin's cave" of yet unfathomable 
depth. And last, though not least, 
among the objects of consideration 
with visiters to these interesting and 
romantic scenes, Mr. Johnson, the 
gentlemanly and accommodating pro- 
prietor of the public house at the 
bridge, will afford every facility for 
their observation and every means for 
their enjoyment." 

Panther's Gap, P. O. 195 ms. 
S. W. oi W. and 154 from R. In 
the vicinity of this post office, the 
Blowing cave is situated. I'his nat- 
ural curiosity is situated 12 ms. S. E. 
of the Warm Springs, in the ridge 



which divides the Cow and Calfpas- 
ture. It IS a large cavity in the side 
of a hill, of about 6 feet in diameter, 
and emits constantly a current of air. 
This current is strongest in dry fros- 
ty weather, and in long spells of rair 
weakest. Regular inspirations and 
expirations of air, by caverns and fis- 
sures have been probably enough ac- 
counted for, by supposing them com- 
bined with intermitting fountains, as 
they must of course inhale air, Avhile 
their reservoirs are emptying them- 
selves, and again emit it while they 
are filling. But a constant issue of 
air, only varying in its force as the 
weather is dryer or damper, will re- 
quire a new hypothesis. There is 
another Blowing cave in the Cum- 
berland mountains, about a mile from 
where it crosses the Carolina line, all 
we know of this is, that it is not con- 
stant, and that a fountain of water 
issues from it. 



ROCKINGHA3I. 



I?.ocKiNGHAM was established by act of Assembly in 1778, and formed 
from a portion of Augusta county. It is bounded N. by Shenandoah, — N. 
E. by Page, — E. by the Blue Ridge which separates it from Orange and 
Albemarle, — S. by Augusta, — W. by the North mountain which separates 
it from Pendleton, — and N. W. by Hardy. Its mean length is 34| miles, 
mean breadth 24; and area 833 square miles. Its mean lat. is 37" 30' N. 
and long. 1° 45' W. of W. C. The main Shenandoah runs through the 
eastern portion of the county, — North river drains the southern part, — 
North Fork of Shenandoah drains the northern and northwestern portion 
and after running through Shenandoah it unites with the main branch soon 
after it enters Frederick, a few miles from Front Royal, — Smith's creek a 
branch of North Fork drains the central portion of the county, and passes 
into Shenandoah before it joins North Fork. The western part of this 
county is very mountainous, and the Peaked mountains run up from She- 
nandoah, between the Shenandoah and Harrisonburg. Much of the soil 
is excellent, and the farming econominal and judicious. A large portion 
of the population is German or of German origin. Population in 1820, 
14,784 — 1830, 20,683. It belongs to the fourreenth judicial circuit and 
seventh district. Tax paid in 1833, $4,821 64 — in 1834 on lots, $167 41 
—on land $3,556 60—1189 slaves, $296 74—7446 horses, $446 76—39 
studs, $279 00—41 coaches, $88 05—68 carryalls, $68 37—34 gigs. 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— ROCKINGHAM. 



43^ 



S25 10. Total $4,928 04. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, 
$890 05— in 1833, $990 01. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Bowman's Mills, P. O. 145 ms 
N. W. by W. of R. and 155 from 
W., situated in the N. W. part of the 
county 23 ms. N. N. W. of Harri- 
sonburg;. 

Brock's Gap, P. O. 150 ms. N. 
W. of R. and 160 from W. 

Conrad's Store, P. O. 120 ms. 
N. W. of R. and 132 from W. 

Cross Keys. P. O. 130 ms. from 
R. and 140 S. W. by W. of W. 

FlARRlSONBURG, P. V. and 
scat of justice, 122 ms. from R. and 
144 S. W. by W. of W., in lat. 38° 
25' and long, 1° 48' W. of W. C 
situated 24 ms. N. N. E. of Staun- 
ton and 40 N. N. W. of Charlottes- 1 
Ville. This village contains besides 
the ordinary county buildings, 125 
dwelling houses, a neat brick market 
house lately erected, 2 houses of pub- 
lic worship, (1 Methodist, and 1 Pres- 
byterian,) 3 common .schools, 1 tem- 
perance and 1 Sunday school society, 
8 mercantile stores, 3 taverns, and 1 
printing office, issuing a weekly pa- 
per. T'here are 2 tan yards, 4 sad- 
dlers, 4 boot and shoe factories, 3 
smith shops, 3 hatters, 2 tailors, 2 
wagon makers, 2 gunsmiths, 2 
wheelwrights and chair makers, 1 
cabinet maker, 2 coppersmiths, and 
tin plate workers, 1 saddle-tree ma- 
ker, 1 glove maker, 1 bookbindery, 2 
watchmakers and silversmiths, 1 mar- 
ble cutter and polisher, a quarry of 
which is in the immediate neighbor- 
hood, and in considerable demand, 1 
confectionary, and 1 earthen ware 
pottery. There is a fine spring of 
strong limestone water in the public 
square, — and the land adjacent is a 
strong limestone soil. Deaton is 4 
miles from this place, and Edom 
Mills are 5 miles distant; they are 
both small but flourishing places; as 
is also Mount Crawford, at which 
55 



considerable business is done both 
mechanical and mercantile. These 
three having sprung up within a few 
years under the auspices of men of 
capital and enterprise, together with 
other causes have rendered Harri- 
sonburg less prosperous than villages 
in this valley generally. Population 
about 1000 persons; of whom 8 are 
resident attorneys, and 8 regular 
physicians. 

County courts are held on the Zd 
Monday in every month ; — Quarter- 
ly in February, May. August, and 
No2'emhcr. 

Circuit Superior Courts of Law 
and Chancery are held on the lOth 
of May and II th of October hy Judge 
Smith. 

Kite's Mills, P.O. 131 ms. from 
R. and 122 W. of W. 

LiNviLLE Creek, P. O. 136 ms. 
from R. and 146 W. of W. 

McGaheysville, p. O. 114 ms. 
from R. and 136 from W. 

Mount Crawford, P. V. 138 ms. 
from R. and 148 S. W. by W. of W. 
situated in the western part of the 
county. On the main valley road lead- 
ing from Winchester to Staunton, and 
immediately on the North river. It 
contains 25 dwelling houses, 1 hou^e 
of public worship free for all denomi- 
nations, 2 common schools, 2 taverns, 
3 mercantile stores, 2 tailors, 2 sad- 
dlers, 2 boot and shoe factories, 1 
smith shop, 1 tin plate worker, 1 
cabinet maker, 1 wheelwright, 1 
cooper, 1 pottery, 2 milliner and man- 
tua makers, 1 gun smith, 1 wagon 
maker, 1 manufacturing flour mill, 
and 1 saw mill. The North river is 
navigable for flat boats, about three 
miles above this village, and consid- 
erable quantities of flour are annual- 
ly carried down th*' Shf^nandonh from 
this place to Georgftown and Alex- 



434 WESTERN VIRGINIA— RUSSELL. 

andrici. The surrounding country is! dler, 1 cabinet maker, 1 turner and 
fertile and the climate salubrious.j chair maker, 1 hatter, and 2 tailors. 
Population 180 persons; of whom i' The Shenandoah is navigable for 
is a physician. i flat boats from Port Republic to the 

Pout Republic, P. V. 121 ms.' District of Columbia, running at all 
from R. and 143 N. W. by W. of W.j times (except at very dry seasons) 
situated at the junction of the North! with from 60 to 120 barrels of flour 
and South rivers, branches of the She-j in each boat. Both branches of the 
nandoah, 2 ms. below the Augusta line,; river furnish admirable seats for ma- 
2^ from VVeyer's cave, 12 ms. S. of chinery, and the water power is suf- 
Harrisonburg, 20E. of Staunton, and; ficieut at all seasons for maniifacto- 
32 north of Charlottesville. It con-; ries of any common extent. Popu- 
tains 30 dwelling houses, 1 house of! lation 160 peisons; of whom 1 is a 
public worship, free for ail denorai-! physician. 

nations, 1 common school, 1 house} Smith's Creek, P. O. 140 ms. 
of entertainment, 2 mercantile stores,! from R. and 130 S. W. of W., situ- 

1 manufacturing flour mill, 3 sawjated in the northern part of the coun- 
mills, 2 tan yards, 1 tilt hammer shop,! ty. The creek is the extreme south- 
with a carriage manufactory attached,! ern branch of the North Fork of the 

2 other smith shops, 1 tin plate work- Shenandoah, 
cr, 3 boot and shoe factories, 1 sad- 



Russell was established by act of Assembly in 1786, and formed from 
a portion of Washington county. It is bounded by Tazewell N. E. — by 
Clinch mountain separating it from Sm.yth E. — S. E. by the same mounr- 
tain, separating it from Washington, — S. and S. W. by Scott, — and by the 
Cumberland mountain separating it from Pike county, Ky., N. W. Its 
mean length is 40 mile.s, mean breadth 34^, and area 1,370 square miles. 
It lies between 36^ 38' and 37° 30' N. lat. and 4° 43' and 5° 41' W. long, 
from W. C. 

Mountains, ^-c.— The Clinch, which divides it from Washington and 
Smyth an the south ; the Cumberland on the north separating it from 
Kentucky, are the most prominent. Their general bearing is from N. E. 
to S. W. Between the waters which fall into the Clinch and the tributa- 
ries of Sandy, and only a few miles north of the Clinch, (with a few ex- 
ceptions on the Guess' river, and a short distance east of it,) until you ar- 
rive at the Cumberland mountain, the country seems to be a congregation 
of mounlains. Their sides are generally steep, — the valleys narrow, — 
most of them of not much greater extent than the space which is occupied 
by the meandering streams which, overhung with laurel, pass on in 
silent obscurity to their respective destinations. A few scattered inhabi- 
tants are occasiontilly to be seen here, who cultivate a small strip of land 
on a watercourse, and follow the chase on the mountains, as the means of 
subsistence. Amongst these mountains there are excellent ranges for cattle 
and hogs, which continues throughout the year except in the more severe 
freezes and snows of winter. Travelling here must be performed either 
by following the hunter's path on the mountains, with but few places of 
safe descent, or pursuing the watercourses; it being impracticable, with a 



WESTERN VTRGTNTA— RTTSSELL. 435 

few oxooptions, In cross ihc mnuntnins with the view of a direct npproach 
from one point to another. There are two rarities of hisfhland, running 
nearly parallel with each oilier and the Clinch mountain, — one between 
Mocasin creek and Copper creek, denominated Mocaxin ridge, — the other 
between Copper creek and Clinch river, called Copper ridge. These, 
ridges are cut by Big Cedar creek, east of which the former is denominat- 
ed the C/fcsHut ridge and Preec''s mountain, and the latter the River, and 
House and Barn mountain. Kent' s ridge lies between the Maiden Spring 
Fork and North Fork of Clinch river ; and north of the latter is the Stone 
mountain. The Big Butt north of Clinch river, is a high projection of 
one of the mountains separating the waters of Clinch and Sandy. 

Rii-ers, Crerkx, tS^r.. — Clinch river, which meanders across the county in a 
N. E. and S. W. direction, is the principal stream, but has not as yet been 
used for transportino- produce to the west, or for other purposes of naviga- 
tion. This river affords an abundance of fish, some varieties of which are 
quite delicious. The North Fork (of Clinch) and the Ma.iden Spring 
Fork which take their rise in Tazewell county, unite their w^atersin the 
eastern section of Russell, (ruess^ river, which divides Russell and Scott 
has various sources from spurs of the Cumberland and adjoining moun- 
tains, and flows in a southern direction into the Clinch, receiving in its 
course Tow'.f creek on the south, and Bvll J?;/??., two of its principal streams. 
Copper creek has its source from numerous fine springs filled with yellow 
gravel, rising a few miles east of the village at Dickensonville, and passes 
on to the southwest, uniting with Clinch river in Scott county. Moccasin 
creek rises near a pfap in Clinch mountain by that name, flows near its 
base in a fruitful valley, and passing through Big Mocasin Gap, falls into 
the North Fork of Holston. Cedar creek is formed by streams issuing 
from the Clinch, Preec's, and the House and Barn mountains : it flows in 
a w^estern direction till within 2 miles east of Lebanon, receiving little 
Cedar ereek which passes the village, and then flows into the Clinch in a 
northern direction. Indian creek runs from the eastern end or termination of 
Preec's mountain and from the spurs of Clinch mountain, and .flows in a 
north east and north direction into the Clinch river. Lewis' creek, Thomp- 
so7)^s creek, Wearer^s ereek, and D'/7np\<> creek, are inconsiderable streams, 
falling into Clinch river on the north; and Cedar Spring, Beckys branch. 
Mill creek, and Castle Run on the south. The principal streams of the 
Sandy is the Louisa Fork in the northeastern section, running nearly north 
west; The Pound Fork (so called from a bend in the river resembling 
somewhat in shape a horse shoe) takes its rise towards the Guess' river, 
runs east near to Cumberland mountain and unites, with McClure's Fork, 
and afterwards Russell's Fork at the state line of Kentucky. There is a 
remarkable cascade upon Big Cedar creek. In its passage through Cop- 
per ridge its waters are precipitated over a rock of considerable height, 
and they then wander in a circuitous route of many miles to seek a union 
with the Clinch river, which here runs at a short distance from it by a 
direct line, and which also rolls over a very shoally and serpentine chan- 
nel above and below their junction, and at one place is very narrow and 
rapid, occasioned by the projei-.tion of rocks from the north side. The 
whole county occupies an elevated region, independent of the mountain 
ridges, from 1,200 to 1,500 feet above the ocean tides. 

Roads. — By a late act of Assembly a road has beeii esinbli.-^hed on the 
joint stock plan, leadiufi from Prices turnpike in Boteiouri. tu V.'uiii-berlarwl 



436 WESTERN VIRGIMA— RUSSELL. 

Gap, which will pass through Lebanon. Its route was surveyed by the 
Engineer to cross Copper ridge, 3 miles west of Lebanon, and through 
Castles' Woods, into Scott, &c. Its location by the Copper creek valley so 
as to cross Copper lidge in Scott county, is strongly recommended by some, 
and the people on both routes are engaged with spirit in working out the 
respective advantages. The road from Lebanon to Abingdon passes by 
the way of Little Mocasin Gap, — that to the Salt Works in Washington, 
andj Smyth, by Hayter's Gap, — that to Scott C. H. (Estillville,) either by 
Dickensonville, or down the valley of Mocasin Creek. A road has been 
opened along ihe Louisa Fork ol Sandy, as a line of communication with 
Kentucky, aided by an appropriation from the State of $3000; but it was 
so injudiciously located and badly constructed, that it is almost impassable, 
A track has also been opened from Castle Woods, via Guess' river and the 
Pound Fork of Sandy, to the State of Kentucky, passing Cumberland 
mountain, communicating with Pike and Ferry counties, Ky. 

Meetitig Houses. — The Episcopalians, Methodists, and Baptists have 
about 12 meeting houses in this county, besides various other places of 
meeting at private houses. There is no other sect having a congregation, 
society or church. The Methodists are the more numerous body of chris- 
tians. 

Manufactures. — There are no merchant mills (properly speaking) in 
Russell. Hendrick's on Cedar creek is the best establishment of that kind; 
flour from it is sometimes sent down the Holston and Tennessee to Hunts- 
ville. There are no factories of iron, wool, or cotton in this county, ex- 
cept carding machines, although there are many sites suitable for Avater 
power. Capital, and an opening for market, are wanting to give encour^ 
agement to these branches of industry. 

Productions. — This county having many parcels of rich and fertile soil, 
produces in abundance most of ihe necessaries of life. Indian corn, wheat, 
rye, oats clover, and the grasses introduced, succeed well; but its distance 
from market and the late neglected state of improvement of \\ie roads, have 
hitherto compelled the farmer lo rear stock as the principal means of ad- 
vancing his estate. 

There are several quarries of marble not far distant from Lebanon, of a 
greyish complexion. It is used for tomb stones, and for the fronts of hearths. 
Some specimens of it have been taken to the South. The liine stone is a 
prevailing mineral in the southern section of this county ; amongst it are 
found many caverns, few of which, however, are of much notoriety. 
Thei'e are two remarkable rocks upon the range of mountain between 
Clinch river and the upper waters of Big Cedar creek in the eastern pan 
of the county; the one from its form is called a house, and the other a bam, 
and hence the name of the Hoiise and Barn mountain. Several extensive 
beds of iron ore exist in this county, but are not at present worked. Stotie 
coal is found in .some of the ravines north of Clinch river, and is deemed of 
excellent quality by the blacksmiths who use it. 

This county had its name in honor of Gen'l William Russell, who 
formerly resided on an estate of about 600 acres in Castles Woods, but who 
at the time of his death lived near to and had an interest in Presto/i's old 
Salt works, in Washington county, now Smyth. 

The principal population of this county is contained between Clinch 
mountam and a distance of from 12 to 15 miles north of its base ; the 
northern and greater portion of its territory being so mountainous, sterile, 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— RUSSELL. 437 

and inconvenient of aceess, tliat the population is, and will be for many 
years hence, very inconsiderable. There are several rich and valuable 
sections of land in this county ; the principal are, Gilmer's Settlemenf, be- 
tween Lebanon and Big Cedar creek, — JElk Garden, in the vicinity of 
Hayter's Gap,-^Castle' s Woods, between Copper ridge and Clinch, west 
of Lebanon, — and the Mocami Valley, lying between a ridge of that name 
and Clinch mountain opposite and below Little Mocasin Gap. In these 
sections the first settlements of the country were made. 

Professions. — There are two resident attornies in the county, one living 
in the village at Lebanon, and the other in the country; — one resident phy- 
sician in Lebanon and two in the country : but the exemption heretofore of 
this section of the Slate from many of the diseases prevalent more frequent- 
ly in other places ; and the scarcity of litigation in the Courts, have not 
presented either to the one or the other, the prospect of much gain from a 
reliance upon their respective professions. 

Early Traditions. — In this part of Virginia, as in most other frontier 
settlements, the first settlers encountered manj^ hardships, and experienced 
many scenes of dreadful suffering from the hostile Indians, who made fre- 
quent incursions from beyond the Ohio river for purposes of plunder, or 
savage revenge. In these incursions the most tragic scenes of cold blood- 
ed butchery were acted ; and the survivors sometimes carried into a cap- 
tivity more painful and distressing than the excruciating deaths to which 
their relatives had been subjected. Many well authenticated accounts of 
these cruelties, and of hair-breadth escapes, are still preserved. We give 
in a note* an example of the sufferings and heroism displayed by the early 

* A NARRATIVE of the Captivity and Escape of Mrs. Frances Scott, of Wash^ 
ington coimly, Va. 

On Wednesday, the 29th day cf June, 1785, late in the evening, a large company- 
of armed men pa.ssed the house on their way to Kentucky ; some part of whom en- 
camped within two miles. Mr. Scott, living on a frontier part, generally made the- 
family watchful; but on this calamitous day, after so largp a body of men had pass^ 
ed, he lay down in his bed and imprudently left one of the 4pors of liis hotise open; 
the children were also in bed and asleep, Mrs. Scott was nearly undressed, when to, 
her unutterable astonishijient and horror, she saw rushing in through the door that 
was left open, painted savages with presented arms, raising a hideous shriek. Mr, 
Scott, being awake, in.slantly jumped from his bed, but was immediately fired at ; he 
forced his way through the middle of the enemy and got out of the door, but fell a 
few paces from thence. An Indian seized Mrs. Scott, and ordered her to a particu- 
lar spot and not to move; others stabbed and cut the throats of the three youngest 
children in their bed, and afterwards lifted them up and dashed them on the floor 
near the mother; the eldest, a beautiful girl of eight years old, awoke and escaped 
out of the bed and ran to her mamma with the mo.st plaintive accents, cried, "O 
mamma! mamma! save me!" — the mother in the deepest anguish of spirit, and with 
a floo i of tears, entreated the savages to spare her child : but with a brutal fierceness 
they tomahawked and stabbed her in the mother's arms. Adjacent to Mr. Scott's 
dwelling-house another family lived of the name of Ball. The Indians also attacked 
them at the same instant they did Mr. Scott ; but the door being shut, the enemy 
fired into the house through an opening between two logs, and killed a lad, and then 
essayed to force the door open: but a surviving brother fired through the door, and 
the enemy desisted and went off"; the remaining part of the family ran out of the 
house and escaped. In Mr. Scott's were four good rifles loaded, belonging to people 
Uiat had \eil them on llieir way to Kentucky. — The Indians loaded themselves with 
the plunder, being liiiiteen in number, then speedily made oft', and continued travel- 
ling all night ; next morning tlieir chief allotted to each man his share, and detach- 
ed nine of the party to steal horses from the inhabitants on Clinch. The eleventh 
day after Mrs. Scott's captivity, four Indians that had her in charge stopped at a 
place fixed on for rendezvous, and to hunt, being now in great want of provisions. 
Three went out, and the chief being an old man was left to take care ol llie prisoner,^ 
who by this time expressed a willingness tu proceed to the Indian towns, which 



438 WESTERN VIRGINIA— RUSSETX. 

settlers, in the narrative of Mrs. Scott of Powell's Valley, which is now in 
Lee county, but which was formerly in Russell, and before its formation, in 
Washin>2fton county, which was published in the New Haven Gazette of 
Dec. 27th, 1785. 

.seemed to have the desired effect of lessening her keeper's vigilance. In the day- 
time while the old man was graining a deer skin, the captive, pondering on her situ- 
ation, and anxiously looking for an opportunity to make her escape, took a resolution 
and went to the Indian carelessly, asked liberty to go to a small distance to a stream 
of water to wash the blood olf her apron, that had remained besmeared since the 
fatal night of the murder of her little daughter. He told her in the English tongue, 
"go along;" she then passed by him, his face being iu a contrary direction from that 
she was going, and he very busy. She, after getting to the water, proceeded on with- 
out delay, made to a high barren mountam, and travelled until late in the evening, 
when she came down into the valley in search of the track she had been taken along; 
ht)ping thereby to find the way back, without th., risk of being lost and perishing 
with hunger in uninhabited parts. 

On coming across the valley to the river side, — .supposed to be the easterly branch 
of Kentucky river — she observed in the sand, tracks of two men that had gone up 
the river and had just returned. She concluded these to have been her pursuers, 
which e.xcited emrtions of gratitude and thankfulness to Divine Providence for so 
timely a deliverance. Being without any provisions, having no kind of weapon or 
tool to assist her in getting any, and almo.st destitute of clothing — also knowing that 
a vast tract of rugged high mountains intervened between where she was and the 
inhabilams easterly, and she almost as ignorant as a child of the method of steering 
the woods, excited painful sensations. But certain death, either by hunger or wild 
)jea.sts, seemed to be better than to be in the power of beings who excited in her mind 
such horror. — She addressed Heaven, and taking courage proceeded onward. 

After travelling three days, she had nearly met with the Indians, as she supposed, 
that had been .sent to Clinch to steal horses, but providentially hearing their approach, 
cottcealed herself among the cane until the enemy had passed. — This giving her a 
fresh alarm, and her mind being filled with consternation, she got lost, proceeded 
backwards and forwards for several days; at length she came to a river that seemed 
to come from the east — concluding it was Sandy river, she accordingly resoh'ed to 
trace it to its .source, which is adjacent to the Clinch settlement. After proceeding 
cip the same several days, she came to where the river runs through the great Laurel 
mountain, where is a prodigious waterfall, and high craggy cliffs along the water- 
edge ; that way seemed impassable, the mountain steep and diliicult ; — however, our 
mournful traveller concluded the latter way was best. — She therefore ascended for 
some time, but coming to a range of lofty and inaccessible rocks, she turned her 
course towards the fool of the mountain and the river side ; after getting into a deep 
gulley, and passing over several high steep rocks, .she reached the river side, where 
to her inexpressible affliction she found that a perpendicular rock, or rather one that 
hung over, of fifteen or twenty feet high, formed the bank. — Here a solemn pause 
€nsue<^ ; she essayed to return," but the "height of the .steeps and rocks she had des- 
cended over prevented her. She Ih* n returned to the edge of the precipice, and 
viewing the bottom of it as the certain spot to end all her troubles, or remain on the 
top U) pine away with hunger, or be devoured by beasts. Alter serious meditation 
and devout exercises, she determined on leaping" from the height, and accordingly 
jumped off. Although the place slie had to alight was covered with uneven rocks, 
not a bone was broken; but being exceedingly stunned by the tail, she remained 
unable to proceed for some space of tjme. 

The dry se&,son caused the river to be shallow — she travelled in it, and, where she 
could, by" its edge, until she got through the mountain, which .she concluded was 
several iniles. After this, as she was travelling along the bank of the river, a veno- 
mous snake bit her on the ancle; she had strength to kill it, and knowing its kind, 
concluded that deatli must .soon overtake her. By this time, Mrs. Scott was reduced 
to a mere skeleton with fatigue, hunger, an<l grief; probably this state of her body 
was the means of ]U'eserving her from' the effe<-ls of tlie poison ; be that as it may, so 
it was, that very little pain .succeeded the bite, and \vhat little swelling there was, fell 
into her feet. 

Our wanderer now left the river, and after proceeding a good distance .she came 
to where the valley |)arted into two, each leadina: a dilTereni course. Here a painful 
suspense agnin took place; a foilorn creature, almost exhausted, and certain, if she 
was far led out of the wav. >lie would never see a human crcQiiire. During tlii.* 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— RUSSELL. 



439 



Population in 1820, 5,536 — in 1830, 6,714. This county bclonj^s to the 
fifteenth judicial circuit and eighth district. Tax paid in lb33, 8668 60 — 
in 1834 on lots, $22 54— on hind, $247 00—306 slaves, $01 50—3301 
horses, $198 06— 23 studs, $103 00— 7 carryalls, $7 00— Total, $660 98. 
Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $418 44 —in 1833, $485 64.- 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Bichley's Mii.ls, p. O. situated 
in Castle's Woods. 

Clifton, P. O. 312 nis. S. W. of 
R. and 374 from W., situated on the 
INlaiden Spring Fork. 

DicKEXsoNviLLE, P. O. This ! 
village was formerly the seat of jus-j 
tice, but since that has been removed i 
to Lebanon, it is almost depopulated,! 
and the houses in a state of dilapida-' 
lion. ! 

LEBANON, P. V. and seat of\ 
justice, 330 ms. from R. and 394 S. 
W. by W. of W., in lat. 36° 53' N.| 
and long. 5^ 03' W. of W. C, situat-l 
ed about 130 ins. N. E. by E. ofj 
Knoxville, Ten., on Little Cedar' 
creek, a branch of Clinch river hav-' 
ing its source in Clinch mountain,! 
on a southern inclination, near the 
centre of the population of the coun- 
ty. It is well watered by springs, 
and commands a beautiful prospect of 
Clinch mountain on the south, whose 
lofty summits present an almost un- 
broken range from Little Moccasin 
to Hayter's Gap, a distance of 12 
miles. On the lett of the latter gap, 
and directly east of this village, the 
mountain rises to a considerable 



height and is covered on the .sunihiit 
with evergreens, — an)ongst whicJi is 
the balsam tree, from which a resinous 
substance is extracted, and which is 
celebrated as useful in the cure of 
chronic diseases. This village was 
located in 1816, and in 1818 the seat 
of justice was established here. The 
court house which is of stone, is the 
only permanent building in the place, 
the rest being all wooden tenements 
and most of them rather indifTerent. 
It contains 6 mercantile stores, 1 
grocery, 2 tan yards, 2 blacksmiths, 
2 tailors, 1 hatter, 1 cabinet maker,, 
and in the vicinity 1 school house. 
The main road from Botetourt, thro' 
Montgomery and Giles to Cumber- 
land Gap, passes through this village, 
and will when completed, contribute 
much to the prosperity of this place 
and the adjoining country. 

County Courts are held on the 
Tuesday after the first Monday in 
every month: — Quarterly in March, 
June, August and November. 

Circuit Superior Courts of Law 
and Chancery are held on the Sri 
Monday in April and September, by 
Judge Estill. 



doubt, a beautiful bird passed close by her, fluttering along the ground, and went out 
of sight up one of the valleys. This drew her attention, and whilst considering 
what It might mean, another bird of the .same appearance in like manner fluttered 
past her, and took the same valley the former had done. This determined her choice 
of the way ; and in two days, which was on the 11th day of August, she reached the 
settlement on Clinch, called New Garden ; whereas, (she is since informed by wood- 
men,) had she taken the other valley it would have led her back towards the Ohio. 
Mrs. Scott relates that the Indians told her that the parly was composed of four dif- 
ferent nations, two of whcmi she thinks they named Delawares and Mingoes. 

She further relates, that during her w luidenng from the lUili of .July to the 11th of 
August, she had no other subsistence but chewing and svvalhiwing the juice of young 
cane stalks, sassafras leaves, and some oilier plants she did not know the names of; 
that on her journey she saw bivfi'ak)es, elks, deers, and frequently bears and wolves — 
not one of which, although some passed very near her, offered her the least harm. 
One day a bear came near her wiili a young fawn in his mouth, and on discovering 
her he dropped his prey and ran oil'. Hunger prompted her to go and tnke the Hesh 
and eat it ; but on reflection she desisted, thinking that the bear might return and de- 
vour her — besides, she had an aversion to taste raw flesh. 



440 Western virginIA— scott. 

SCOTT. 

Scott was established by act of Assembly in 1814, and formed from por- 
tions of Lee, Washington and Russell. It is bound N. and N E. by Rus- 
sell, — E. by Washington, — S. by Sullivan and Hawkins counties of Ten- 
nessee, — tind W. by Lee. Its mean lat. is about 46° 47' N., its long. 5° 
40' W. of W. C — its mean length 26 mileS; mean breadth 24, and area 
624 square miles. 

The face of the country is mountainous and uneven. — Clinch mountain 
passes through the county from N. E. to S. W. — all the principal ridges and 
streams take the same direction. The county is exceedingly well watered 
by good springs, creeks and rivers, and possesses water power in abundance. 

The soil is generally good, some of superior quality, (he poorest well suit- 
ed to small grain, — good meadows can be made almost any where. The 
county is well suited to rearing stock. 

The principal groicth consists of poplar, hickory, beech, sugar maple, 
white Etnd black oak, lynn, buckeye, black walnut; chesnut on the mountains 
and ridges, and wild cherry is found in many places. 

The chief productions are, Indian corn, wheat, rye, oats, hemp, flax, <fcc. 
and apples and peaches in abundance. Many horses, horned cattle and 
hogs are reared in, and driven out of the county. 

Rivers, &c. — The North fork of Holston ftnd Clinch rivers, run through 
the county, — each afford the facilities of boat navigation down iheni in times 
of freshets; and with sorafe improvement would add greatly to the conve- 
nience of the country for the purposes of trade; they bofh afford fine fish. 
Clinch river, for a river of its size, is remarkable for its fish. Some of the 
largest taken in it are of the following weight: — blue cats, 30 to 40 lbs.— 
salmon, 15 lbs. — carp, 15 lbs. — red horse, 7 lbs. &c. 

Big- Mocasin, Creek rises in Russell county at the foot of Clinch moun- 
tain — winds along the North side of the mountain, a distance of about 30 
miles, to Big Mocasin C4ap. — Little Mocasin creek rises at the foot of said 
mountain in a different direction, runs along the mountain a distance of 
about seven miles to said Grap, where the two streams form a junction, flow 
through the Gap on nearly level ground, and pass on to the North fork of 
Holston. Clinch mountain here is large and the GJap, although formed 
abruptly, is so perfectly level that the main Avestern road in passing through 
it, does not ascend more than in passing up a gently flowing stream. — Big 
Mocasin Gap is situated about one mile east of Estillvilie. 

Sinking Creek empties into Clinch river about 22 miles norlh of Estill- 
ville, is 6 or 7 miles long, and large for its length. It rises on the south 
side of said river, in Copper ridge, and when it approaches within three- 
fourths of a mile of the river, sinks, passes under the bed of the river and 
rises about one hundred yards from the river on the north side, and runs 
back into the river, — the stream rising has often been proved to be the same 
that sinks. — Fish from the river pass into the mouth of the creek in the fall 
of the year in large numbers, winter imder ground, and return to the river 
in the spring, when many are caught in a trap fixed between the rising 
water and river. 

Minerals, <fec. — Iron ore abounds in eveiT part of the county — stone 
coal of good quality is found in many places — marble, considered coarse, 
abounds about Estill ville — lime and free stone quarries are abundant — salt 
water has lately been discovered by boring at the distance of upwards of 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— SCOTT. 441 

300 feet below the surface, in the Poor Valley, near the North fork of Hoi- 
ston, and about 8 miles east of EstillvilJe. The proprietor, Col. James 
White of Abingdon, is now letting down pipes and making- preparations to 
work the well. The quality and quantity of the water is not yet fully ascer- 
tained in consequence of the interference" of fresh water, which was struck 
first near the surface; — there how»:-.ver appears to be no doubt among those 
employed at the well bat that it may be profitably worked. 

The Holston Springs, situated on the North" fork of Holston, south of 
Estillville 2 miles, or 4 miles as the road run.s, is considered by many to 
be not inferior to any springs in the state- for the medicinal virtues of the 
water, but a.s yet has gained no great celebrity in consequence of the accom- 
modations beino inft^rior to those of most other watering places. 

_The_ White Sulphur Sprhigs, near the Rjre Cove N. W. of Estillville 8 
nliles, is considered equal to the Catawba Springs in Washington county — 
There are many other Sulphur Springs in tke county of less note. 

There are in the county, exclusive of the town of Estillville, 9 meeting 
houses, 6 of which belong to the Methodists and 3 to the Baptists; — the Me- 
thodists also have 13 or 20 other preaching places in the county, where they 
have societies formed and preach every other week — 6 stores, 4 tanyards, 
10 licensed houses of private entertainment, 4 hatter shops, 33 mills, some 
of which are very ordinary, others make good Sour; but none are entitled 
to the appellation of merchant mill To JO or 15 of these mills, saw mills 
are attached, — and to two, carding machines. 

The climate is somewhat milder than thac of Washington or Russell 
counties — vegetation commencing at Estillville one or tu'o weeks sooner 
than at Abingdon or Lebanon. There is but one practicing attorney besides 
those residing in Estillville, and no regular physician. 

Population in 1820, 4,263 — in 1830, 5,724. It belongs to the 15th 
judicial circuit and 8th district. Tax paid in 1833, $646 73 — in 1834. on 
lots, $2.5 76— land, S273 95— 180 slaves, 845 00—2032 horses, $121 92 
—13 studs, $55 00—3 carryalls, $3 00— Total, $524 63. Expended in 
educating poor children in 1832,8242 61 — in 1833,8361 56. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES. &c 

ESTILLVILLE. P. V. and 5e<j^requalled by none except the Sweet 
of justice, 357 m3. S. W. of R. and Springs, to which they have a consid- 
433 S. W. by W. of W. It contains erable resemblance. This place is 
besides the county buildings, 61 dwel- supplied with water b]/means of pipes, 
ling houses, 2 houses of public wor-fthrough which it is brou.jj^ht 800 yards, 
ship, (1 Methodist and 1 Presbyte-jand is conveyed to every dwelling. 
rian,) I academy, 1 common schoollThe water is of the purest and best 
and 1 female do, 4 mercantile stores,! quality. This place possesses some 
2 tanyards, 2 saddlers, 3 blacksmiths, -of the best water falls and sites for 
1 extensive hat manufactory, 2 cabi- , manufacturing establishments in Wes- 
net makers, several house carpenters, j tern Virginia, and other advantages 
and various other mechanics. It isjnot to be surpassed by any village in 
situated on Mocasin creek, betv^reen; the state. The country around abounds 
the N. fork of Holston and Clinch! with stone coal and iron ore, and salt 
rivers, and 4 miles from the Hoi- 1 water has lately been obtained in great 
ston Springs, which are now visited j quantity within 6 miles of the C. H. 
by much companv, and said to bc^A northern, southern, eastern and 
56 



442 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— SCOTT. 



western mail arrives in this village 
once a week. Population 200 per- 
sons ; of whom three are resident at- 
torneys and two regular physicians. 

ComUy Courts are held on the \st 
Wednesday after the 2d Monday in 
every month; — Quarterly in March, 
June, August, and November. 

Circuit Superior Courts of Law and 
Chancery are held on the 2d Monday 
in April aiid September, by Judge 
Estill. 

OsBORN Ford, P. O. 20 ms. north 
of Estillville. 

Pendleton, P. O. 367 ms. from 
R. and 443 from W.— Situated 12 ms. 
N. W. of Estillville. 

Stock Creek, P. O. 368 ms. from 
R. and 444 from W. — Situated 1 1 ms. 
W. of Estillville. The remarka- 
ble NATURAL TUNNEL is situ 
ated near this P. O. We present an 
account of this natural curiosity writ- 
ten by S. H. Long, Lieut. Col. U. S. 
Army originally from the Monthly 
American Journal of Geology, in 
which it was published in February, 
1832. 

"The immediate locality of this 
tunnel is upon a small stream called 
Buck-eye, or Stock creek. This last 
name owes its origin to it& valley hav- 
ing been resorted to by the herdsmen 
of the country, for the attainment of a 
^006^ range, or choice pasture ground 
for their cattle. The creek rises in 
Powell's mountain, and is tributary 
to Clinch river, which it enters at the 
distance of between two and three 
miles below the tunr>el. The aspect 
of the surrounding country, and espe- 
cially of that to the northward of the 
tunnel, and constituting the southerly 
slope of the mountain just mentioned, 
is exceedingly diversified and broken, 
by elevated spurs and ridges, separat- 
ed from each other by deep chasms, 
walled with cliffs and mural precipi- 
ces, often presenting exceedingly nar- 
rovtT passes, but occasionally widening 
into meadows or bottoms of considera- 
ble extent. The mural precipices just 



mentioned, occur very frequently, 
bounding the valleys of the streams 
generally in this part of the country, 
and opposing ramparts of formidable 
heighl, and in many places utterly in- 
surmountable. Such are the features 
peculiarly characteristic of Wild Cat 
Valley, the Valley of Copper Creek, 
of Powell's and Clinch rivers, and of 
numerous other streams of less note, 
all of which are situated within a few 
miles of the natural tunnel. 

" To form an adequate idea of this 
remarkable and truly sublime object, 
we have only to imagine the creek to 
which it gives a passage, meandering 
through a deep narrow valley, here 
and there bounded on both sides by 
walls or revetements of the character 
above intimated, and rising to the 
height of two or three hundred feet 
above the stream; and that a portion 
of one of these chasms, instead of 
presenting an open thorough cut {rom 
the summit to the base of the high 
grounds, is- intercepted by a continu- 
ous unbroken ridge more than three 
hundred feet high, extending entirely 
across the valley, and perforated trans- 
versely at its base, after the manner 
of an artificial tunnel, and thus af- 
fording a spacious subterranean chan- 
nel for the passage of the stream. 

" The entrance to the natural tun- 
nel on the upper side of the ridge, is 
imposing and picturesque, in a higk 
degree; but on the lower side, the 
grandeur of the scene is greatly 
heightened by the superior magnitude 
of the clifis, which exceed in loftiness, 
and which rise perpendicularly — and 
in some instances in an impending 
manner- — two to three hundred feet; 
and by which the entrance on this side 
is almost environed, as it were, by an 
amphitheatre of rude and frightful 
precipices. 

"The observer, standing on the 
brink of the stream, at the distance of 
about one hundred yards below the 
debouchure of the natural tunnel, has, 
in front,-a view of its arched entrance, 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— SCOTT. 



44S 



rising seventy or eighty feet above the 
water, and surmounted by horizontal 
stratifications of yellowish, white and 
grey rocks, in depth nearly twice the 
height of the arch. On his left, a 
view of the same maral precipice, de- 
flected from the springing of the arch 
in a manner to pass thence in a con- 
tinuous curve quite to his rear, and 
towering in a very impressive man- 
ner, above his head. On his right, a 
sapling growth of buck-eye, poplar, 
linden, &.c. skirting the margin of the 
creek, and extending obliquely to the 
right, and upward through a narrow, 
abrupt ravine, to the summit of the 
ridge, which is here, and elsewhere, 
crowned vvilhatimber growth of pines, 
cedars, oaks, and shrubbery of various 
kinds. On his extreme right, is a gi- 
gantic cliff lifting itself up perpendi- 
cularly from the water's edge, to the 
height of about three hundred feet, 
and accompanied by an insulated cliff, 
called the chimney, of about the same 
altitude, rising in the form of a tur- 
ret, at least sixty feet above its base- 
ment, which is a portion of the impos- 
ing cliff just before mentioned. 

" In order to give a more full de- 
scription of the magnificent spectacle 
which forms the subject of this article, 
I shall transcribe some of the minutes 
taken from my private notes, whilst 
on the ground; but first I shall give 
an extract from a letter addressed to 
me by my friend P. C. Johnston, Esq. 
of Abingdon, in the adjoining county 
to Scott, a gentleman well acquainted 
with this interesting locality. 

" 'The rocks through which Stock 
creek flows, are a light blue and gray 
limestone, of a subcrystalline charac- 
ter; the strata are nearly horizontal; 
and this arrangement of the strata is 
obvious for several miles northeast- 
wardly; but in every other direction, 
very near the bridge, (natural tunnel,) 
they have the dip usual in the coun- 
try to the S. E. at an angle generally 
of from 30° to 50°. This tunnel is 
near what I have believed to be the 
N.W. boundary of the transition for 



mation, a little within it. I have not 
been able to discover any organic re- 
mains in the limestone there, or in the 
neighborhood. On the little projec- 
tions of the rock which occur on the 
walls, near the lower (S.) end of the 
tunnel, a crystallized deposit is lodged, 
which you no doubt recollect, that 
seemed to my taste to be a mixture of 
saltpetre and alum. No attempt has 
been made to analyze it. The earth 
found near the upper (N.) extremity 
of the tunnel some years ago, (the 
first time I visited it,) afforded saltpe- 
tre. The crystallized deposit seems 
to be made from a stratum apparently 
not more than six inches thick, which 
is so high that it cannot be reached 
for examination. The growth of tim- 
ber is such as is common in the neigh- 
boring country, white, red, Spanish, 
black oaks; hickory, white walnut, 
dogwood, poplar, chesnut, birch, iron- 
wood; some hemlock and pawpaw 
(asimina triloba) on the banks of the 
creek, and the edges of the cliffs fring- 
ed with cedar. On the creek, below 
the tunnel for two miles, is found that 
variety of ash called the fringe tree, 
(ch ionanth us virginica,) the long white 
fringe-like blossoms of which are so 
deligMfuHy fragj-ant.'* 

The following passages are front 
my own private journal: 

'Saturday, Aug. 13, 1831. Hav. 
ing ascended Cove ridge, Ave turned 
aside from our route to visit the natu- 
ral bridge, or tunnel, situated on Buck^ 
eye, or Stock creek, about a mile be- 
low the Sycamore camp,t and about 
one and a half miles from a place call- 

* This plant, in the natural system, be- 
longs to the oleo.cetz, or olive tribe. The 
flowers of the olea fragrans are u.sed for 
flavoring tea in China. We offer this hint 
to our readers who have access to the chio- 
nanthus. — Ed. 

+ Thi.s designation hasbeen given toa spot 
in the valley of the creek, where formerly 
stood a hollow sycamore (planlanus occi- 
dentalis) tree of an enormous size, the i^e^- 
mains of which are still to be seen, and in 
the cavity of which, whilst it stood, fifteen 
persons are said to have encamped at the 
same time together. 



444 



WESTERN VIRGI NIA— SCOTT. 



ed Rye cove, which .occupies a spa- 
cious recess between two prominent 
spurs of Powell's mountain, the site of 
thenatural tunnel being included with- 
in a spur of Coveridge, which is one of 
the mountain spurs just alluded to. 
Here is presented one of the most re- 
markable and attractive curiosities of 
its kind to be witnessed in this or any 
other country. The creek, which is 
about seven yards wide, and has a 
general course about S. 15 W. here 
passes through a hill elevated from 
two to three hundred feet above the 
surface of the stream, winding its way 
through a huge subterraneous cavern, 
or grotto, whose roof is vaulted in a 
peculiar manner, and rises from se- 
venty or eighty feet above its floor. 
The sides of this gigantic cavern rise 
perpendicularly in some places to the 
height of fifteen or twenty'- feet, and 
in others, are formed b\' the spring- 
ing of its vaulted roof immediately 
from its floor. The width of-the tun- 
nel varies from fifty to one hundred 
and fifty feet; its course is that of a 
continuous curve, resembling the let- 
ter S, first winding to the riglu as we 
enter on the upper side, then to the 
left, again to the right, and then again 
to the left, on arriving atthe eiitranee 
on the lower side. Such is its pecu- 
liar form, that an observer, standing 
at a point about midway of its subter- 
ranean course, is completely excluded 
from a view of either entrance, and is 
left to grope in the dark through a 
distance of about twenty yards, occu- 
pying an intermediate portion of the 
tunnel. When the sun is near the 
meridian, and his rays fall upon both 
entrances, the light reflected from both 
extremities of the tunnel, contributes 
to mollify the darkness of this interior 
portion into a dusky twilight. 

" ' The extent of the tunnel from its 
upper to its lower extremitv, followina: 
its meanders, is about 1.50 yards, in 
which distance the stream falls about' 
ten feet, emitting, in its passage over 
a rocky bed, an agreeable murmur,; 
which is rendered more grateful by 



.its reverberations upon the roof and 
sides of the grotto. The discharge of a 
musket produces a crash-like report, 
succeeded by a roar in the tunnel, which 
has a deafening effect upon the ear. 

" 'The hill through which this sin- 
gular perforation leads, descends in a 
direction from east to west, across the 
line of the creek, and affords a very 
convenient passage for a road which 
traverses it at this place, having a de- 
scent in the direction just mentioned, 
of about four degrees ' 

" The rocks found in this part of 
the country are principally sandstone 
and limestone, in stratifications nearly 
horizontal, with occasional beds of 
clay slate. A mi.xture of the two for- 
mer frequently occurs among the al- 
ternations presented by these rocks. 
I A A'ariety of rock resembling the 
j French burr, occurs in abundance on 
[Butcher's fork, of Powell's river, 
about twenty miles northwardly of 
the natural tunnel. Fossils are more 
or less abundant in these and other 
rocks. Fossil- bones of an interesting 
character have been found in several 
places. Saltpetre caves are numerous. 
Coves, sinks and subterranean caverns 
are strikingly characteristic, not only 
of the country circumjacent to the na- 
tural tunnel, but of the region gene- 
rally situated between the Cumber- 
land mountain and the Blue Ridge or 
Apalachain mountain. Bituminous 
coal, with its usual accompaniments, 
abounds in the northerly parts of this 
region ; and in the intermediate and 
southerly portions, iron, variously 
combined, often magnetic, together 
with talcose rocks, &,e. &.c. are to be 
met with in great abvindance. 

" The mountains in this vicinity, 
long. 82° to 84° W. from Greenwich, 
lat. 35° to 36° N. are among the most 
lofty of the Alleghany range. Seve- 
ral knobs in this part of the range, 
among which may be enumerated the 
Roan, the Unaka, the Bald, the Black, 
and Powell's mountains, rise to the 
height of at least four thousand five 
hundred feet above tide." 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— SHENANDOAH. 445 

SHENANDOAH. 

Shenandoah was established by act of Assembler in 1772, from a por- 
tion of the county of Frederick under the name of DirNMORE, from the 
name of Lord Dunmore, then Governor of Virginia; but in October 1777 
after Lord Dunmore had taken a decided stand against the colonies in the 
contest with the mother country, one of the delegates from the county stated 
that his constituents no longer wished to live in, or he to represent, a coun- 
ty, bearing the name of such a tory, he therefore moved to call it Shenayi- 
doah,a.ker the name of the beautiful stream which passed through it; which 
was accordingly adopted. Shenandoah is bounded N. and N. E. by Fred- 
erick,— E. and'S. E. by Page,— S. and S. W. by Rockingham,-^ W. and 
N. W. by Hardy. Its average lat. is about 38° 50' N. and long. 1° 30' W. 
of W. C. ; — its greatest length from S. W. to N. E. is 32 miles, — average 
width 15, — and area 384 sq. ms. This is a fertile and populous county, 
situated in the valley. The whole county is traversed by the North Fork of 
Shenandoah river, lying between the Massanutten and North mountain. The 
North and South branches of the Shenandoah river pass through the entire 
length of the county and Page, and unite immediately below its north-eastern 
line, and form the Shenandoah river. They admit of a descending naviga-. 
tion when the waters are a little swollen, — its creeks are Cedar creek. Pas- 
sage creek, Stoney creek. Mill creek and Smith's creek. It is divided into 
four valleys, two of which are long and two small, — by the Three Topped 
or Massanutten mountain and the Little North mountain. 1'he larger val- 
leys are watered by the North and South Shenandoah rivers, the smaller 
vallies by Cedar and Passage creeks. The land in the vallies is principal- 
ly limestone, and is well adapted to the cultivation of wheat, rye, Indian 
corn and oats, and is divided into small farms. Its staple articles are flour, 
bacon, beef, butter and iron. Thtcre are within it 34 manufacturing flour 
mills, 2 furnaces and 4 forges, for the manufacturing of pig metal into bar 
iron, and another furnace and forge are now be'ng erected. Its mineral re- 
sources have been but partially explored. Iron ore of the best quality 
abounds, copper, lead, cobalt and copperas have been found, but not in suf- 
ficient quantities to justify working them. There are several chalybeate 
and sulphur springs which are places of resort in the warm season. 

The Valley oe the Gooney is situated in the eastern part of the 
county, immediately at the western base of the Blue Ridge, It is bounded 
on the S. by the Hog-back mountain, which is one of the highest summits 
of the Blue Ridge, on the E. by the Blue Ridge; on the N. and W. by 
Dickey's hill and the Buck mountain, both of which, are spurs of the Blue 
Ridge. It is about 7 miles in length and 4 in breadth. The face of this 
section of country, is hilly and rugged, but the soil is sufficiently produc- 
tive, and yields, when well cultivated, abundant crops of corn, wheat, rye, 
«fec. Clover and timothy thrive remarkably well on this soil, as plaster 
acts with an astonishing effect. There is a great proportion of excellent 
meadow land, there being scarcely a field that has not one or more streams 
of water passing through it. Almost every farmer has a spring of excellent 
mountain water near his door, and breathing a pure mountain atmosphere; 
the inhabitants are extremely healthy and robu.st, having uniformly es- 
caped those periodical diseases which have been so fatal in other sections of 
Virginia. The principal stream is the Gooney, which is a creek of the 
largest class. It rises near the top of the Hog back, and running a N. W. 



446 WESTERN VIRGINIA— SHENANDOAH. 

course about 12 miles, empties into the South River about 5 miles, above 
the town of Front Royal. It affords some fine situations for water-works, 
and mqves several merchant mi'ls and saw mills. The mountains, with 
^yhieh it i« surrounded, afford an inexhaustible supply of excellent timber. 
Tl^ere is a woollen factory, I common school, 2 churches (Methodist and 
Baptist) and several extensive distilleries of grain, — whiskey, plank and flour 
being the chief articles of export. This valley is thickly settled by a hardy, 
honest and indu.strious people. From the top ot the Blue Ridge, at Dade's 
gap, nearly opposite the town of Washington, in the county of Rappahan- 
rjock, there is a magnificent view of the eastern part of the county of Shenan- 
doah (now Page) and of the county of Rappahannock. Near this place there 
is a remarkable rock called the Raven's Den, it having been occupied as the 
aerie of that wild bird from time immemorial. It is entirely inaccessible to 
pian. Near Cheek's gap, Lann's run, a bold mountain current, a branch 
,of the Gooney, forms a most beautiful cascade, the water falling GO or 70 
feet perpendicular. There is another beautiful cascade near Milford, formed 
hy the stream which divides the counties of Shenandoah and Page; the wa- 
ters of which fall about 100 feet at one perpendicular pitch. 

The Fort Mountain. This name has been given to a range of moun- 
tains in the county of Shenandoah, which are, in elevation, about equal to 
the Blue Ridge. This range commences nearly opposite to the town of 
Newmarket, at which place it is called the Massanutten mountain, and ex- 
tends in a direction nearly from S. W. to N. E. or in a line coinciding with 
the meanderings of the North branch ot the Shenandoah river. Unlike 
the Blue Ridge, which is extremely fertile, and the greater part of which is 
susceptible of successful and profitable cultivation, this mountain is pre- 
cipitous and rugged in the extreme, and is covered, for the most part, with 
ja thick growth of oak, pine, hickory, chesnut, &c. Its forests afford a 
shelter for a great number of deer, bears, turkies and other game, with 
which the mountain abounds. Nearly opposite the town of Luray in the 
jCounty of Page, its eastern base is washed by the South, and its western 
base "by the North branch ot the Shenandoah river. At this place the 
fountain torks, and instead of one, there arc two distinct mountains, stretch- 
ing in the same direction, and running parallel to each other. These 
mountains form what is termed the Fort. Thfy have received the name 
" Fort Mountains," from the peculiar form of the valley which they enclose, 
which, with the addition ot some slight military fortifications might be ren- 
dered impregnable. The only road which crosses this mountain is the one 
>vhich leads from Luray to Woodstock, which is at the upper end of the 
Fort, and which at the expense of much labor is kept passable for light 
loaded carriages. The valley which is enclosed by these mountains, is 
about 2.5 miles in length and about 3 in mean breadth. It is tolerably 
fruitful in grass, corn, rye, buck-wheat, potatoes, turnips, &c. At the up- 
per end of the Fort, rises Passage creek, a large and very rapid mountain 
current, which works several fine merchant mills. Its whole length is 
about 30 miles. The Fort is supposed to be extremely rich in mineral ores, 
of which iron and copper are among its di.scovered mineral productions. 
There are in the Fort, several con)mon schools, 2 Meeting-houses, 3 grist 
mills, 3 oil mills, a powder factory, several smith shops and a sufficient 
number of mechanics. The population is about 700 souls. In making an 
excavation for a well, a few weeks since, (.Tan. 1S34,) some fine specimens 
of petrifaction were discovered at a considerable distance below the present 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— SHENANDOAH. 447 

surface of the earth. These pel rifar I Ions eonBi'st of toads, snakrs, &..c. in a 
state of entire preservation. The East and West Fort mountains terminate 
abruptly nearly opposite the town of Strasburg. The points opposite this 
place are the highest parts of the mountain, being about 1200 feet above the 
level of the river. The entrance or mouth of the Fort forms one of the most 
awful defiles in America. The space between the mountains is barely wide 
enough for a narrow road, which runs on the bank and sometimes in the 
bed of the large and rapid creek Avhich rushes impetuously over the rugo-ed 
surface of its channel. On each side of the road the mountain rises soper- 
pendicularly as to be entirely inaccessible. The East Fort mountain espe- 
cially exhibits the most magnificent scenery, and rock piled on rock, from 
base to top, without a shrub to break the view, and bids defiance to the ap- 
proaches of man. Here, in summer, may be seen great numbers of vul- 
tures basking in the sun, or with expanded wings inhaling the cooling 
breeze. In the cav^erns which are in this cliff, it is said these vultures re- 
main in a torpid state during the winter. There are some of the finest land- 
scape views from this mountain which can be imagined. At a point nearly 
opposite Woodstock, from the East Fort mountain, the South river presents 
the appearance of three distinct streams of water, crossing the valley from 
the western base of the Blue Ridge, to the foot of the Fort mountain. If an 
observer, station himself on the top of the East mountain, at the N. end, and 
look "down east" the beautifiil valley of the South river is presented Ml to 
his view. The thrifty village of Front Royal with the adjacent coxintVy m" 
te.rspersed with elegant country villas, fertile fan'ns and thifek forests alter- 
nately meet the eye. If he look a little higher his horizon is bounded hy 
the indented top of the Blue Ridge, which stretches N. and S. as far as the 
vision can extend; its surface from base to summit is beautifully diversified 
with cultivated farms and sloping woodlands. If he look W. into the pro- 
found aby.ss below him, he recoils with horror from the awful sight. If he 
station himself on the N. end of the West mountain, he has a full view d/ 
the valley of the North river. Strasburg, which is 4 miles distant, f*n]i^ars' 
almost under his feet. At a distance of 7 miles, he sees Middleto-wiV, 5 miles; 
further he sees Newtown, and at a distance of 20 miles he sees the large and' 
populous town of Winchester, — its stately dwellings and towering steeples 
glittering in the sun. A great part of the county of Frederick is seen irr 
fwli perspective. But one of the finest landscapes in Virginia, and perhaps 
in the world, is seen from a point on the West Fort mountain nearly oppo- 
site Woodstock. Here, if the observer look toAvards " the far ea.st," t'hft' 
"blue brow" of the North mountain, which stretches N. and S. further t^ii^n 
the eye can view, appears to peep into the clouds and to tower ahdve them, 
niany of which actually sail below its summit. The fertile valley which 
lies between the North- mountain and Woodstock, is seen so distinctly, that 
a person who is acquainted with the country, may designate most of the 
farms which are seen from this point, the view from which, extends over a 
country about 1.5 miles in extent. 

The town of Woodstock, which is about 5 miles distant, is seen so plain- 
ly, that the observer may count almo.st every house in that beautiful village. 
Between Woodstock and the mountain (Fort) lies the rich valley Avhich is 
watered by the North branch of the Shenandoah. The river in its mean- 
derings approaches very near the mountain, and then retreats a considerable 
distance towards Woodstock, where after making a turn it suddenly returns 
to the mountain without the bend at either place being perceived. ' Thus it 



448 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— SHENANDOAH. 



alternately approaches the mountain and recedes from it, until it presents 
the appearance of seven distinct rivers running parallel to each other. 

The river at this place, is about 150 feet in width, and forms a beautiful 
sheet of water which sparkles in the sun like a stream of silver. The space 
which is enclosed by each bend of the river is, apparently about large 
enough for a beautiful farm, and the bottoms being abundantly fertile, the 
whole scene presents one of the most picturesque landscapes in the world. 
Shenandoah is an Indian name, signifying clear water, and like most of the 
Indian names is very appropriate, these rivers being remarkable for their 
transparent waters. In 1831 part of this county which lies between the 
Blue Ridge and the Massanutien mountain was taken off, and with a small 
part of Rockingham county, formed into a new county called Page. When 
the county was first settled, about the year 1735, its population was com- 
posed principally of Irish and Scotch; but few of their descendants are now 
found within it, as the county became more settled, they were supplanted by 
Germans from Peimsylvania, — and the greater part of its population, now 
consists of their descendants. They are a plain, frugal and industrious 
people. A few j'ears since the German language was very much spoken 
and taught in the schools, but it is now rapidly giving place to the English, 
which is now universally taught in all the schools. 

Population in 18-20, 18,926 — in 1830, 19.750. By the separation of 
Page the population is reduced to 14,000. This county belongs to the 14th 
judicial circuit and 7th district. Tax paid in 1833, 83,506 09 — in 1834, 
on lots, $253 33— land, $2,479 68—984 slaves, $246 00—5,575 horses, 
$334 50—22 studs, $128 00—23 coaches, $53 00—27 carryalls, $27 00 
— 16 gigs, $12 65. Total $3,534 16. Expended in educating poor chil- 
dren in 1832, $1,512 16— in 1833, $827 29. 



TOWNS, VILLAGES. POST OFFICES, &c. 



Allen's Cave. In the county of 
Shenandoah, a short distance from the 
town of Front Royal, is Allen's Cave, 
which may with propriety, be styled 
a great natural curiosity. It is situat- 
ed on the right bank of the Shenan- 
doah, about a quarter of a mile from 
the river, in the side of a hill of con- 
siderable elevation. The face of the 
country in its vicinity, is romantic in 
the extreme, being a thick forest of 
oak, pine and cedar, intej'spersed with 
ledges and clifls of limestone. 

The entrance into this cavern is bj- 
a gradual descent of about 45'^. The 
mouth is about 5 feet in width and 15 
in heiglit. After proceeding alunii 60 
feet, the explorer reaches what may 
be termed the vestibule ol this grand 
work of nature, after which the floor 
becomes con)parativrly level. Upon 
looking back, towards the entrance. 



the beholder is struck with the singu- 
lar beauty and regularity of the mag- 
nificent arch, which is composed of 
solid liine. The cavity here is about 
10 feet in width and 30 in height. 
Proceeding some distance, it becomes 
very narrow and so low, that it is ne- 
cessary to stoop much in order to ad- 
vance. Upon emerging from this 
narrow defile, the admirer of the 
works of nature, is presented with one 
of the most magnificent scenes which 
the fancy can imagine. He fiiids 
himself ushered into a vast room, the 
extent of which, from end to end; is 
more than 150 feet, and of very con- 
siderable width. The height of the 
roof or ceiling, varies from 10 to 50 
or 60 feet, forming some of the finest 
arches that the eye ever beheld. The 
ceiling and walls of this apartment, 
which is called Sarah's saloon, are 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— SHENANDOAH. 



449 



covered with sparry incrustations lextremity of the cavern. This cham- 
which have been "formed by the jber which is called the Sylph's dress- 



drippings of the water from the roof 
In some places, they have the appear- 
ance of pendant icicles ; in other places 
they bear a strong resemblance toxhe 
folds of drapery, arid appear to hang 
in festoons which art can neither ri- 
val or imitate. In some places the 
sparry stalactites resemble the most 



ing-room, is about the size of the sa- 
loon, with a lofty ceiling of sparry 
concretions, — once clear as crystal — 
novv rendered dingy by the smoke. 
It has several outlets, too small to ad- 
mit the body of a man ; but it is pro- 
bable that if they were enlarged, they 
might lead to other rooms in this sub- 



bcautiful sculpture, at one point pre- terraneous abode, which it is possible 
senting the image of a magnificent |and even probable, may extend to tha 
pillar or colossal statue, at another I river. Near the Fairy's bath, is a 
the curved and wavy appearance of a narrow passage, which turns to the 
cataract in miniature. If a piece of right, called the labyrinth. After va- 
the spar be thrown into a crucible or Irious mazes and intricate windings 
even into a hot coal. fire, it fuses, and j under low arches, so contracted in 
becomes as transparent as glass. breadth as to admit only one person 

It is, however, to be regretted, that 'abreast, the winding ceases, and the 
the most beautiful specimens of the [explorer finds himself in a straight 
spar have been abstracted by the [passage, about 40 feet in length, 3 in 
numerous visiters; and that, the walls 'breadth, and 7 in height, and which, 
and roof of Sarah's saloon, which j without doubt, forms one of the most 
were once of the most glittering trans- ; beautiful, regular and symmetrical 
parency, have been blackened by the larches in the world. Issuing from 
smokeof the pine torches, which have; this passage the explorer finds him- 
been used in exploring it. Upon jself in the ball-room, which is decid- 
leaving the saloon, it becomes neces- edly the best room in the cave. The 
sary to ascend about 12 or 15 feet; length is 160 or 170 feet, and the 
perpendicular, which is done byjbreadth at least 30 feet. Here, too, 
meansof a ladder, at the top of which !as in the other rooms, the hands of 
is a small room which is evidently vandal visiters, have torn off the 
the highest and yet the closest apart- beautiful spar from the wall, thus 
ment in the cave, as the candles burn ; having robbed the cave of its glitter- 
less freely here, than in any other iing orn-iiments, and deprived posteri- 
part of the cavern. On speaking, or jty in a measure, of one of the most 
striking with the hand against the jmagnificent scenes that ever met the 
wall the sound is increased to an as- 'eye of man. The floor is of soft clay 
tonishing loudness. At the fartheriand remarkably level and smooth, 
extremity of this upper apartment is a | Here, before the invention of dandies, 
reservoir of water of a circular shape, tights,corsets,balloen sleeves, prunella 
about 5 feet in diameter and 4 in depth, slippers, large combs and leghorn 
called the Fairy's bath, and within aifiats, the beaux and belles of by -gone 
few feet of the bath, is a small basin days met, and held social parties, and 
called the Fairy's wash-bowl, — both (while "mmglmg in the giddy mazes 
formed in the solid rock and full ofiof the sprightly dance," the foot and 
water of the most limpid clearness. , hand kept time with the clarionet and 
After leaving this place, the passage violin; and the merry song, the wild 
forks. That passage which leads jmusic, the free jest, the witty retort 
straight forward, passea through 3om.e:and the hearty laugh, all telling of 
small rooms and narrow defiles, until jenjoyment, reached the remotest 
jt leaches a largp apartmeni, at the df-pths. of this spacious grotto, — while 
57 



4$« 



VVESTEKN VIRGIMA— SHENANDOAH. 



pleased echo caught the sound, andla fine stream running entirely thro' 
reverberating from grotto to grotto, jit called Passage creek, on which 
told the deities of the place, of the 1 are situated many springs oi pure 
mirth and innocent amusement which i water at various distances. 
were to be found in the ball-room ofi Mount Hope, P. O. 144 ms. from 
Allen's cave. | R- and 80 S. W. by W. of W. 

Even in these, our degenerate! Mount Jackson, P. O. 157 ms. 
days, the cave is still visited by hun- from R. and 113 W. of W. It con- 
dredsof persons who generally speak j tains 8 dwelling houses, I Presby- 
in terms of the highest praise of the terian house of public worship, 1 



wonders which they have seen in 
this subterranean world. The ex- 
tent of this cavern has never been 
ascertained — but it is supposed to be 
about 1200 feet. 



common school, 1 mercantile store, 1 
tavern, 1 tanyard, 1 smith shop, and 
1 boot factory. The country around 
is a little broken, the soil gray and 
sandy, of ordinary quality, produc- 



Cedar Creek, P. O. 162 miles' ing Indian corn, wheat and oats tol- 
from R. and 83 from W lerably well. 

FoRTsMouTH, P. O, 147 ms. from! Strasburg, P, O. 153 ms. froutt 
R. and 83 W. of W. This village iR. and 89 W. of W,, situated in the 
is pleasantly situated in a narrow; northern part of the county, on the 
valley, and in the fork of the North North branch of the Shenandoah 
and South branches of the Sheuan- river, immediately on the main road 
doah river, surrounded on the south leadincr from Woodstock to Winches- 



and west by the Fort mountain. It 
contains several dwelling houses, 1 
manufacturing flour mill, 1 saw- mill, 
1 distillery, and various mechanics. 



ter, 12 ms. N. of the former and 18 
S. of the latter. This is a healthy 
and thriving village, containing 78 
dwelling houses, 3 houses of public- 



Population 30. There are in the im-| worship, (1 Presbyterian, I Lutheran,, 
mediate vicinity two houses of public' and 1 free for all denominations,); 3; 



worship, the one Baptist, and the oth- 
er free for all denominations. It is 
distant 25 ms. from Winchester and 



schools, including an academy, (a 
handsome building with a valuable 
lot of land attached, on which has 



1 8 from Woodstock. Fortsmouth : been erected out of the income an 
derives its name from Powell's Fort,] excellent house as a residence for the 



at the mouth of which it is located, 
and which is a great natural curiosi- 
ty, — the valley bei:ng formed by the 
Massanutten mountain, springing up 
on the west side of the Shenandoah 
river, commencing between New 
Market and Staunton, running south 
west and north east until it reaches a 
short distant below New Market, — it 



principal.) There are also 3 mer- 
cantile stores, 1 apothecary shop, 2 
taverns, 1 stone and 1 earthen ware 
manufactory, 4 tanyards, 5 cabinet 
makers, 1 turner, 4 blacksmith shops, 
I plasterer, 3 bricklayers, 2 gun 
smiths, 5 tailors, 6 boot and shoe fac- 
tories, and 4 cooper shops. Popular 
tion 470 persons; of whom 6 are 



then breaks off into two mountains, ! regular physicians. The inhabitants 
the one running down the North andlare principally Germans, of indus- 



the other down the South branch of 
the Shenandoah river. These two 
mountains form Powell's Fort, which 
receives its name from an individual 
who it is said was the first settler 
within the fort. This Fort, as it is 



trious and economical habits. 

New Market, P. V., delightfully 
situated in the great valley of Vir- 
ginia, between the Massanutten and 
North mountains, 120 ms. W. by S. 
of W. and 150 ms. N. W. of R., in 



called, is thirty miles in length, with lat. 38° 36' 30" N. and long. 1° 37' 



WESTEJ?N VIIK.IMA— SHENANDOAH. 



451 



"W. from W. It is a central point 
botweiMi the towns of Winclioster 
and Staunton, beings 50 miles distant 
from either place. The main road 
leading from the counties of Pendle- 
ton and Hardy, eastward across 
Thornton's Gap in the dirci'tiou of 
Fredericksburg, intersects the great 
valley road at this place. The town 
was founded about the year 1784. Itj 
is at this time three-fourths of a mile] 
in length, containing above one hun-l 
dred dwelling houses, with a popu-j 
lation of 700 persons. The streets 
arc retnarkably level, straight and 
well laid out, bearing south 25 west, 
a direction nearly parallel with the 
Massanutten mountain and two miles 
distant from its base. There are 3 
houses of public worship, viz. 1 Lu- 
theran, 1 Baptist, and 1 Methodist, 1| 
large and commodious brick acade-j 
my, in which is taught all the 
branches of liberal and polite educa- 
tion, 1 book and job printing office, 
5 stores, 3 taverns, 1 resident attor- 
ney, and 4 regular physicians. — , 
There is perhaps no town in the state! 
of the same size, where the mechani-j 
cal pursuits are earned on to a great- 
er extent than in this. There arcj 
here in active and extensive opera! 
tion — 1 manufactory of threshmgl 
machines, 6ic., 2 wheelwrights, 4' 
cabinet makers and house-joiners, 4| 
tanneries, 2 saddle and harness mak-l 
ing establishments, 2 chair factories, 
4 boot and shoe manufactories, 3 hati 
factories, 1 silversmith and jeweller,! 
i coppersmith and tin plate worker, 
2 gunsmiths, 2 blacksmiths, ) lock-j 
smith, I eleymaker, 1 saddle tree j 
maker, 1 diaper weaver, and 2 potte- 
ries, at one of which stone ware of a! 
superior quality is manufactured.! 
There are also in the vicinity 2 forges j 
for the manufactory of pig metal into 
bar iron, both of which are at this 
time in active operation. The coun- 
try around abounds in iron ore of the 
best quality. 

The North fork of the Shenan 



doah river runs within a mile of the 
town on the western side; and is na- 
vigable at high water for boats car- 
rying one hundred barrels of flour 
to the Plain Mills 2^ miles above the 
town: but the navigation is some- 
what hazardous, as the river is pas- 
sable for boats of this burden only 
during a freshet. The Massanutten 
mountain on the east of the town 
presents a beautiful and unbroken 
view to the eye of an observer, free 
from any spurs, or secondary moun- 
tains, to obstruct his sight, lor many 
miles in extent, presenting upon the 
whole a spectacle highly grand and 
picturesque. There is a cascade on 
this mountain about 3^ miles from 
the to\vn, which as it appears not to 
be embraced in any written account 
of the State, deserves to be noticed— 
It presents the curious spectacle of a 
beautiful sheet ef water falling from 
the height of fifty feet perpendicular. 
The large table rock over which the 
water falls is so perfectly level and 
smooth, that the water falls in an en- 
tire and unbroken sheet of several 
yards in width, which it retains until 
it strikes the bottom, sufficiently far 
from the perpendicular for a person 
to pass conveniently between that 
and the sheet ef water, without dan- 
ger of getting wet. This falling 
sheet of water is so perfectly trans» 
parent, that it may be seen for several 
hundred yards, glistening thro' the 
thick surrounding woods, presenting 
a beautiful spectacle. 

Among the rocks of this country 
are the blue and grey limestone, 
slates, sand-stone and burr-stone. — 
The adjacent country i.s famed for its 
fertility, and is well adapted to the cul- 
ture of wheat, rye, Indian corn, and 
grass. No country can boast more 
of its healthy situation than this ; in 
short nothing seerhs to be wanting 
to render it among the most desira- 
ble sections of country in the State, 
but a facility of access to market, 
and whenever that is given, it may 



458 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— SMYTH. 



be confidently predicted, that no part 
of the United States will present 
greater rewards to enteprise and in- 
dustry. 

Stony Cheek, or Shryock, P. 
O. 162 ITS. from R. and JOS S. W. 
of W.. situated on Stony creek, near 
the North Fork of Shenandoah. 
The creek empties into the rivt-r one 
mile E. of this place. It is distant 
8 ms. S. S. W. of Woodstock, and 
35 in a similar direction trom Win- 
chester, This village contains 17 
dwelling houses, 2 mercantile stores, 

1 house of public entertainment, 1 
rifle manufactory, and 1 blacksmith 
shop. Population 130 persons; of 
whom I is a physician. The land 
is fertile, producing well all the ordi- 
nary staples, and the county. is thick- 
ly settled. Stoney creek is a bold 
stream, affording some excellent sitcsJ 
for manufactories. There are locat- 
ed on it, and within 2 miles of the 
village, at various distances, a consi- 
derable number of dwelling houses, 

2 extensive manufacturing fiour mills, 
2 grist mills, 7 saw mills, 1 well es- 
tablished fulling mill, and 2 wool 
carding machines, 1 still-house, 1 
tannery, and 1 forge in active opera- 
tion, manufacturing pig metal into 
bar iron, and 1 furnace called Co- 
lumbia, with about 200 persons de-' 
pendant on it for support. 

WOODSTOCK, P. V. and scat 
of justice, 156 ms. from R. and 100 



S. W. of W. in lat. 38° 51' N. and 
long. 1° 34' W. of W. C, situated on 
the main valley road 32 ms. S. S. 
W. of Winchester and about 1 mile 
W. of the North Fork of the She- 
nandoah river. It contains besides 
the usual county buildings, 1 18 dwel- 
ling houses, 3 houses of public wor- 
ship, (1 Lutheran, 1 Methodist and 1 
German Reformed,) 1 Masonic Hall, 

1 handsome brick academy, 3 other 
schools, and 2 sabbath schools, 1 
printing office from which a weekly 
paper is issued, 5 mercantile store&, 

2 taverns, 3 tan yards, 4 saddlers, 2 
hatters, 5 boot and shoe factories, 5 
house joiners and carpenters, 3 
vt^heelwrights and chair makers, 4 
tailors, 2 smith shops, 1 earthen and 
1 stone ware manufactory, 1 watch 
maker and silver smith, 1 wagoii 
maker, 1 tm plate worker, 2 saddle- 
tree makers, 2 saddle-tree platers, 2 
bricklayers and masons, and 2 plas- 
terers. Population 950 persons: of 
whom 3 are resident attorneys, and 
4 are ministers and 3 regular physi- 
cians. 

County Courts are held on the 
Monday before the 2d Tuesday in 
every month; — Quarterly in March, 
May, August and November. 

Judge Smith holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the 9//; of April and Septe^n- 
ber 



SMYTH. 



Smyth was created by act of Assembly in 1831, and formed from a 
portion of Washington and Wythe. It is bounded W. by Clinch moun- 
tain separating it from Russell, — N. W. and N. by the same mountain, 
separating it from Tazewell, — N. E. and E. by Wythe, — and by the Iron 
mountain separating it from Grayson S. E. and S. It is located on the 
head waters of Holston river. The eastern line dividing Smyth and 
Wythe crosses within fifty yards of the head spring. The count}--" is divi- 
ded into three valleys, — the North, South and Middle Forks of "the Hol- 
ston running parallel w-ith the difl^erent valleys. The North Fork rises 
between Clinch and Walker's mountains, pursues a northerly course some 



WESTERN VTKC;iN[A— SMYTH. 453 

distance, and then winds to the west. Tiie mountains are lofty, — the bot- 
tom lands are rich and productive. On this fork is found gj-psum of the 
best quality, and sufficient in quantity to supply the whole western coun- 
try. In that neighborhood is situated the salt works belonging to Gen'l 
Preston. These works, and King's in Washington county, are denomi- 
nated Sa/ii-iUe, — they are within 40 feet of each other. The place has 
risen up in consequence of the salt works. The .cptinty line sepai'ating 
Smyth and Washington counties runs between them. (For further 
particulars sec Saltviile in this county.) An experiment lately made on 
the water of Preston's works was attended with complete success, — twenty 
bushels full produced a deposite of five bushels of salt, which weighed one 
hundred and fifty-one pounds, shewing it to be in proportion of one-fourth 
to the water which contains it. it is supposed that no other water ap- 
proaches this strength, and it is quite free from the slightest quantity of 
bittern or other foreign matter. From this supply five hundred biishels of 
gait may be manufactured in twenty-four hours. 

Qn the middle fork of the Holston are situated the Chilhoicce S'ulphur 
Bpruig>\ within or.- mile of the great road. They stand as high for llie 
medicinal qualities of their waters as any spring in A'^irginia. There are 
also in the same vicinity several chalybeate springs. The productions 
are wheat, rye, Indian corn, buckwheat, Irish potatoes, hemp, fiax, 
and every species of the vine; being one of the best grape counties in Vir- 
ginia. This county is well timbered with the best of white and black 
oak, buckeye, poplar, hickory, black walnut, lynn, pine, sassafras, dog 
wood, birch, beech, and the spice wood tree. Along the branches are elder 
of difierent qualities, spruce pine, and the hemlock tree. It also abounds 
with the maple or sugar tree. This tree is more valuable than all others ; 
if it is notched in the month of March, and bored with a small auger or 
gimblet some distance below the notch and a tube placed in, one tree will 
afford in a season from 30 to 60 gallons of sweet water, which when boile.d 
will always produce from 3 to 4 pounds of good sugar, besides the m.olasses, 
which is superior to any other. The tops, of these' itccs are large, taper- 
ing something lik'e a sugar loaf, the bark is rough and body straight, some. 
of them are of a light color, others black. The latter always ])roduce the 
sweetest water. Some of these maple trees grow to an enormoiis size. 
The wood is precious, and when cut and corded, one tree, will make from 
6 to 7 cords. The next in size is the j'-ellow pojiktr, which exceeds in 
growth any timber in the United States. It is no uncommon thing to find 
this timber from 3 to 4 feet and upwards in diameter, and the trunks 44 
feet in height before a limb .shoots. The white oalc and other timber is in 
proportion. 

There are in this county one cotton manufactory, (at the court house,) 3 
iron works, 14 tan yards, 16 grist mills, 14 houses of public worship, (5 
Methodist, 2 Presbyterian, 3 Baptists, 3 free for all denominations, and I 
Lutheran,) and 8 taverns or houses of public entertainment. The eleva- 
tion of Davis's town, situated 2 miles from the east line of the county, and 
on Pleasant Hill, is 200 feet above James River at Lynchburg. Pojnila- 
tion not taken at the last census, the county having been since created, but 
supposed to be between 6 and 7000, of which there are 100 free per- 
sons of color, and 1400 slaves. It belongs. to the fourteenth judicial cir- 
cuit and eigth district. Tax paid in 1833, $941 .57 — in 1834 on land- 
$572 04—470 slaves, $117 50—2675 horses. Si 60 50—20 sluds, $123 50 



454 



WESTERN VinOTNrA— SMYTH. 



— 5 coaches, $10 00—5 carryalls, $5 00—1 gig, 50 cts. Total, $989 04. 
No report of school commissioners for 1832. Expended in educating poor 
children in 1833, $220 2G. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



MARION P. V. and county seal, 
was located two years since. The im- 
provements have rapid) V progressed. 
A handsome court house, clerk's of- 
fice, and jail, have been erected, 10 
or 12 neat dwelling houses have been 
completed and several others are in 
progress of erection, 2 mercantile 
stores have been established, and 2 
others are about going into operation. 
One cotton manufactory on a small 
scale, and various mechanical pur- 
suits are carried on : the principal 
of which are bricklaying, stone ma- 
sonry, house carpentry, tailoring, 
saddlery, and blacksmithing. Popu- 
lation about 100 persons; of whom 
3 are resident attorneys, and 2 regu- 
lar physicians. 

County Courts are held on the 
Thursday after the third Monday in 
■/every month; Quarterly in Febru- 
ary, May, July and Octohcr. 

Judge Estill holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on th'^" Monday after the fourth 
jSlovAaii in AprU and September. 

Pleasant Hill, P. O. 269 ms. 
from R. and 341 S. W. by W. of W. 

Saltville, p. O. This settle- 
ment derives its name from the justlj' 
celebrated Saltworks of Pre.ston and 
King. Preston's well being located 
in Smyth, and King's in Washing- 
ton county. They are not more than 
forty feet apart, the line dividing the 
two comities running between the 
wells. The following topograjihical, 
geological and general remarks res 
pecting them, and the surrounding 
country, are taken from an article 
published in the Abingdon Republi- 
can. 

"The place called Saltville, is situ 
ated in a narrow plain of about 700 
acres of land, lietween the Rich Val- 



ley and the North Fork of the Hol- 
.ston, having its greatest length from 
'he northeast to the southwest, bound- 
ed on the eastern side by conical 
peaks and ridges which are appen- 
dages of W^alker's mountain: and on 
the western side by conical peaks 
and highland intervening between it 
and tlic North fork of the Holston ri- 
ver, which washes their bases for many 
miles. This branch of the Hclston 
is declared a pub-ic highway, but has 
many obstructions, which it is be- 
lieved could be removed by expend- 
ture of $6,000, so as to be suitable for 
batteaux and flat bcnits, from Saltville, 
to its mouth at Kingsport, a distance 
of 65 miles by water. 

"The present point of manufactur- 
ing salt is on the bank of the river, 
to which for convenience of timber 
ind fuel the water is conveyed, about 
two miles, in a northwardly course, 
n wooden tubes. On the opposite 
bank of the river lies Little moun- 
tain, an apjjendage of Clinch moim- 
tain, which is parallel and continuous 
with that mountain for hundreds of 
miles, and between which, lies a nar- 
row stoney valley, commonly called 
the Poor Valley. The numerous 
streams having- iheir source in the 
Clinch mountain, pass through thf» 
breaks of Little mountain into the 
North Fork', along its course. To the 
northw'est of Clinch mountain, and 
parallel with it, lie Copper Ridge, 
Powel's mountain, Cumberland moun- 
tains, and the Log mountains, having 
narrow valleys; and the rivers Clinch, 
Powefs and Cumberland, and their 
waters, interspersing, beautifying and 
enriching, these inviting, but for the 
present, neglected regions. Beyond 
Log mountains and the adjacent 
ridires in Kentucky, lip streams 



WESTEliN \ IRUINJA— SMY'IU 



emptying into the Ohio; on one of 
which is the Goose Croek Salt Manu- 
factory, about 150 miles from Salt- 
ville. 

"Viewing the country from Salt- 
ville, towards the south of Walker's 
mountain, fine valleys and fertile 
ridges are passed before you reach 
the middle and south fork of Holston 
river, and thence towards the south- 
west; passing many tributaries, you 
cross the Watauga, French Broad, 
Nolachucky, and the hundred streams 
rising in this mountain district, and 
winding their way westward, to form 
ihe broad and beautiful Tennessee 
river; whilst those running from the 
same quarter caslwardly, compose 
the bold and restless waters of 
the Great Kanawha, — all adding 
utility and beauty ; either to the 
valleys bordering on the large rivers, 
or the irregular but level depressions 
called coves, hemmed in all around 
except a sino'le pass way; which 
sometimes exhibits a cataract in its 
little stream. 

"East of tlie New River waters, 
the Alleghany mountain directs the 
streams to the Atlantic, and at some 
points you might stand with one foot 
in the waters of the Atlantic, the 
other in those which wend their weary 
way to the hot Mexican gulnh, and 
the great mart for the efiective indus- 
try of the millions of people which 
the valley of the Mississippi, is invit- 
ing from other extremes to those parts. 
Standing at such a point, your admira- 
tion would be excited, that amidst such 
a. boundless viev/ of masses beyond 
masses, of high parallel and irregu- 
lar mountains, the rivers should all 
find their way to their destinations, 
wirhout falls or other impediments to 
navigation, which thtj skill and ener- 
gies of man, at trifling expense, may 
not remove; thus addinjj viijor to the 
giant heart, the Estuary of our thou- 
sand rivers, which is to receive, com- 
mercially cherish and return, as it 
were, the vitalized fluids to all the 



extremities. With amazement still 
heightened, Avould you bi'hold from 
the great White Top, (the neutral 
ground of North Carolina, Virginia 
and Teiuiessee,) the Spinal Allegha- 
ny and the Bine Ridge, with its gra- 
nite clifi's and basaltic rocks, running 
diagonally athwart each other, and as 
if in the formative day of their crea- 
tion, each of these huge columns of 
uplifted matter had been shot forward 
from the north and northeast; and 
neither having the advantage of force 
over the other, a contest terrible com- 
menced, in which the champions 
botli discomfitted, glanced; each tak- 
ing its own path southwardly, leaving 
their cast awa\' remnants piled fear- 
fully "Ossa upon Pelion, and Peli(jn. 
upon Ossa," rolling confusedly into 
thousands of rude shapes. But in- 
this field of old Avarring elements are 
every where, as you would also per-- 
ccive, evidences presented, that the 
prin:jiple of order has been passing 
and nestling, has changed and given: 
new capacities; striking the Avaste 
"rocks with the rod," millions o9 
springs of purest water gushed forth;' 
the uptorn hills became verdant, anri 
all the glories of redundant vegetal- 
tion do more than honor to the silent' 
mountains; thousands of choicest 
animals browse and revel on the spon- 
taneous herbage; and man invitetV- 
last, has made his home in these high-: 
places ; and being far removed from 
the great commercial haunts of luxu-- 
ry and vice, hope m.ay long rest in 
security, that here at least, some' 
.shaie-— a large share of health, hap- 
piness, independence and freedom- 
will be enjoyed ? Why do the in- 
habitants of these regions, so bounte- 
ously fitted for tlieir use, desert thmv 
for Eldorado's in the great and labor- 
ing and slave holding and money 
grasping west? Too many have 
quit, have left their mountains, — but 
the day of return is commencing 
in our favor; it was not so with those 
who listened to the song of William 



lob 



WESTERN V LRG 1 N 1 A—SMYTH. 



Tell; for deeds of .iirnis \vhen-ueces-|high, like clilTs of rock. The coun- 
sity calls; or for hearth-talks .'in --pip- 1 ties of Green, Washington, Sulli van, 
ing times of peace,' there is no 'place iGampbeJ], Claiborne, Anderson, 
like a. home in the mountains and in Knox, Rhea, Hamilton in Tennessee, 
the \:;illeys.'. You- haveiio,' doubt Harlan, Ky., Ash, Buncomb, Ruth- 
seen the surprise of strangers on theierford and other -counties of North 
highway, when reaching in somei Carolina, and Monroe, Giles, Mont- 



parts of this country (as Bark's gar 
den with its ten thousand eleA'ated 
level acres) the (irs.t view of valleys 



gomery, Floyd, Grayson, Preston, 
Wythe and other counties in - Vir- 
ginia abound in exluuistless q-uanti- 



bdow, in foggy mornings; whilst .on | ties of iron, and many of those. coun- 
the mountain the sun is brilliantly ties have quarries of various soits of 
beaming; the stranger's eye will be i stone coal and innumerable seats for 



arrested with what he supposes is a 
broad and lengthened lake below. 
The deception is perfect, the very 
waves are seen rolling and tempest 
tossed, nor will the appearance of 
islands and of trees breakins' through 



water power. 

"In Grayson and Wythe are large 
bodies . of rich copper ore, not- yet 
fully tested, and in the latter county, 
lead ore of the best quality, worked 
by Col. James White and Alexander 



the mist as it. evaporates, nor. the | Pierce , — what amount of lead could 
sounds of ploughmen, the screaking! be made is unknown, as the ore. bank 
of iron works, or the monotonous i seems inexhaustible, and coal in 
beat of the forge hammer, issuing abundance, as near as. - Graham's 
from the gulph below (till then un-j forge and iron furnace. The capaci- 
heard of,) dispel the optical illusion, ty of the soil to produce different 
— the rolling mist must btj disper-.; sorts of timber after the first is. cut 
sed before he can believe the decep- off is very remarkable in this coun- 
tion. try — those acquainted with the soil 

"Let the James River improve- ai^d first groAvth of timber can fore- 



ments have an arm extended towards 
the Tennessee, and the latter be im- 
proved with that spirit- whieh has 
characterized Tennessee for the last 
twelve months: or let a Macadam 
road be constructed through the naui- 
ral depression of all the mountains, 
from the Atlantic to the Mississippi, 
and it requires only the slightest 
knowledge of things, to be convinced, 
that in internal resources no part of 
the union can vie with this, especially 
in minerals. Preston's salt-works 
are in Smyth county, and King's in 
Washington, and the same counties 
abound in immense banks of iron 
ore. In the adjoining county of Car- 
ter, are above twenty iron making es- 
tablishments now in operation, some 
of which are small bloomeries, and 
in some places solid masses of ore 



tell what will be the se<'ond and third 
growth on land once culti\ated or on 
new land. ti- - 

"Preston's Saltville land contains 
a description of millstones, •e'Ssily 
quarried, which are equal to the.-best 
French burr stones for flourimills; 
and at A'arious points in the vicinity, 
and in Russell county a-re quarries of 
varrous- marbles. In the valleys, 
buried in the soil,-are innumerable 
rounded sandstone rocks, some of 
which are flinty, others of- marly in- 
gredients, and many such teose 
stones occupy the shoal'y beds of the 
streams; but the channels bf all 
streams are -chiefly bedded by lime- 
stone, mica, sandstone, and slaty- for- 
mations, whose- lamella or divis.ion3 
are seldom horizontal, until yo-ii ar- 
rive -at the level of the great v\-<»stern 



containing seventy-five per cent of river.=i-. '"You may here find ledges 
metal, are exposed tliirtyor forty feet {of rocli? extending hundred? of miles 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— SMYTH. 



457 



in a perpendicular posture, occasion- The lead, iron and salt minerals ^r^ 
ally broken where ridges transverse found in, or bedded upon limestone, 
each other; but in the general these slate and other rocks of the transi- 
ledges are either massive and of wav- tion kind, while stone coal and gyp- 
ing configuration and striated irregu- sum and sandstone are evidently all 
larly, or are inclined at angles whose of a much later fcrmaton, as they do 
medium may be 45 degrees of the not run under, but stop short, on 
horizon, and it would seem, that they reaching masses of primitive and 
had perpetually sought to reach that transition rocks The great upper 
angle, notwithstanding such promi- body of the Clinch and Cumberland 
nent failures so to do. The declin- mountains, and their appending 



ing direction is continuous through 
the body of the hills and ridges 
generally, and the upper plane is 
facing the south, as far as parallelism 
with the general course of the ridges 
will permit; and in consequence of 
this southern exposure of the planes 
of the rocks in all the mountains 
west of the Alleghany to the verge 
of those mountains east of the Mis- 
sissippi, chemical nature has not the 
same A'ariety of surface to work upon, 
that it has where the upward direc- 



chains are chiefly formed of strata 
and irregular masses of sandstone, 
which is undergoing great changes, 
decomposing in soine parts and in- 
creasing and hardening in others ; 
much of the limestone composing 
the basis of these mountains is a very 
coarse and impure carbonate. The 
multitude of sulphur and chalybeate, 
hot and cold springs, and their vari- 
ous medicinal qualities in Bath, Mon- 
roe, Buncomb and other places that 
deserve to have celebrity for their 



tion of the rocks expose their edges,! waters, exhibit astonishing chemical 
on the northwardly side of the ridges, j changes yet going on far below the 
and as might be expected, the south- 1 earth's surface. After passing west- 
ern faces are comparatively barren, [wardly, beyond the verge of these 
whilst the opposite side is rich and broken ranges, you perceive great 



productive; and such difTerences are 
observable even on the south side, 
where deep ravines expose the broken 
ends of rocks one side, and their 
rather plane surface on the other. 
This conformation holds immense 
quantities of water and pours it forth 
even on the pinnacles of the highest 
hills, decomposing the ground by 
winter freezes and summer drought 



uniformity and order in the confor- 
mations of rocks and soils. The 
rivers and creeks are based with gccd 
Ijmfeetone, lammellated horizontally, 
and having fissures at unequal dis- 
tances, extending perpendicularly to 
gryat depths. Commencing at the 
surface, there will be found rich, 
loamy soils, and clays, often mixed 
with gravel or sandstone to the depth 



and adding fertility even to the rocks; of six or ten feet, then limestone a 
the timber growing to enormous' described, next a white coarse lime- 
sizes, by passing its roots into the in-j stone four to eight feet, in one, two. 
terstices of rocks. The region of or three strata, next limestone of 
North Carolina and Tennessee, in thicker laj'^ers, sometimes fifty feet; 



then a layer of gray, blue, or black 
liin*, three to six feet ; next blue brit- 
tied limestone all fissured and 1am- 



which gold is found, about 60 to 100 
miles from Saltville, borders on the 
primitive granite and basaltic walls 
that rise under the Blue Ridge, and mellar, then slate of a dark brittle 
are rarely exposed on its western' kind, horizontal and of considerable 
face; and in Virginia, the copper j depth, containing brilliant yellow, 
mines of Grayson and Wythe are notjoval lumps of sulphur and iron, be- 
remote from similar constructions, low which are lav^^r'^ '^f hard, flintr 
58 



458 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— SMYTH. 



dark rocks, with occasional layers of 
slate. At places like these, and other 
formations of a standard kind, those! 
who would undertake to classify 
rocks into different ages, might form 
plausible theories which would 'van- 
ish into thin air' when tested by the 
mixed up productions of this moun- 
tainous country. Here rude shapes 
of simple organization are sometimes 
seen in the transition, or what little 
agrees with the secondary limestone 
of the west. 

"Saltville was the property of, 
General AVilliam Campbell, the hero 
of Kings' mountain, and after hisi 
decease his only child Sarah, mar- 
ried General Francis Preston, who 
rented the well and salt marsh to 
Wm. King, an enterprising young 
Irishman, who conducted the busi- 
ness profitably, returned to Ireland 
for his father and brothers and sifters, 
and in a few years in partnership 
with the late Joiiah Nichol of Nash- 
ville, and other worthy mercantile 
partners, on whom fortune has al- 
ways smiled, had amassed very hand- 
some profits. Wm. King apprised 
General Preston and lady, that a 
tract of land adjoining theirs was for 
sale, and advised ther^i to purchase, 
as salt-wa.ter could be procured upon 
it, and upon their declining, he pur- 
chased it for about $2,000. 

King and Nichol then dug a twelve 
foot square well, cribbing it with 
timber, and paying the Rev. Mr. Col- 
ley about $2,000 for its expenses, un- 
til the opening was about two hun-| 
dred feet in depth. King had mark- 
ed out the spot and declared he would 
go on until water was found, and 
Nichol withdrawing from the con- 
cern, on digging twelve feet deeper, 
the well filled to within forty feet of 
the surface of the earth with salt 
water, of which thirty-two gallons 
would make, on drying tlie salt, a 
measured bushel -of 50 lbs. weight. 
This was on the 6th of April, 1797,' 
and the quantity of water being in- 



I exhaustible, by any use made of it, 
salt was reduced from $5 to $1 50 
cts. per bushel ; and a more liberal 
rent was given General Preston of 
S9,00t) per annum for his v^'ell, which 
then ceased to be worked ; and the 
parties continued on the most friend- 
ly term.s towards each others' wel- 
fare. William King having in view 
to encourage every branch of indus- 
try, and calculating that thereby im- 
mense wealth would flow to himself, 
enlarged his mercantile pursuits, 
dealt with great liberality, and be- 
coming very popular, his wealth so 
increased, that at his death, the 13th 
October, 1808, his personal estate 
was estimated at above one million 
dollars. 

"Preston's and King's works were 
then conducted by bis widow, now 
Mrs. F. Smitl), James King and- 
Wm. Trigg, as devisees of a life 
estate; and since by Col. Jas. White; 
at present by Wm. King & Co.; Mr. 
King being the only son living of 
James King and devisee of the es- 
tate in remainder from his uncle 
Wm. Kmg, vi^ho died without chil- 
dren. Gen. Preston's and King's 
works in the first lease to Col. White 
were rented at $30,000 each per an- 
num, but have not been so productive 
of late years as is understood. 

"During the yea? 1832, Gen. Pres- 
ton not being satisfied with the good- 
ness of his well, employed Mr. An- 
thony, an ingenious mechanic and 
■partner of Dubrough's in a patent 
plan of boring, to sink cast iron tubes 
of five inch bore 218 feet or the 
depth necessary, where was found a 
supply of salt-water, sufficient for 
400 iJushels of salt daily, the water 
being stronger than any known, 22 
to 24 gallons producing 50 lbs. salt. 

"The space in which good salt- 
water can be procured in large quan- 
tities is very small — in the vicinity 
of Saltville has been expended above 
^40,000 in fruitless digging and bor- 
ing by the owners of land. Pres- 



WESTERN VIRGINI A— SM YT H. 



459 



ton's new tubed well is only 40 yards 
from King's, and an experiment on 
King's land, within 40 feet of the 
old well made last month, produced 
no water at the depth of 270 feet, 
though the borings were for many 
feet through the salt rock, and partly 
through gypsum, blue and red clay 
and half formed sandstone. — The 
formation below the depth of 200 
feet, in which salt-water is found, 
seems to be on a slaty basis, at an in- 
clination of about 15 degrees facing 
the south east, and in King's old 
well, whence has been drawn water 
for 40,000 bushels of salt in the last 
60 days, there are large irregular 
columns of plaster or gypsum, and a 
plaster roof supporting the ground 
above, the interior clay for 40 or 
iriore feet in some directions having 
been washed away. Into these open- 
ings near 100 cords of wood were 
thrown, but all disappeared. From 
all the borings and the most careful 
observation, it is evident, at this place, 
that both the sand-stone and plaster 
are above, and of more recent forma- 
tion than the muriate of soda. 

"The crater-like sides of the tran- 
sition rocks exposed around Salt vi lie, 
at some points, into which the plaster 
never intrudes, has given rise to a 
conjecture, that at some ancient peri- 
od, the plane on which stands Salt- 
ville, was as high as the adjacent 
hills; and that by a dissolution of 
the saline substratum which the river 
(being lower) may have received, the 
upper earth gave way, throwing the 
rocks into their present disjointed 
state, and the surface of all which 
has been levelled by the washings 
from the hills, and by the impercep- 
tible workings of time; and this con- 
jecture would seem to be supported 
by the numerous bones and teeth of 
the Mastodon and other animals found 
at any depth yet approached. 

"The surface of the saltAvater be- 
ing some thirty feet higher than the 
river water, has suggested to Mr. 



Anthony the use of a syphon, half a 
mile in length to draw the water from 
the well, without a force pump ; and 
the facility of conveying the water 
to wood or more convenient points of 
navigation, is now clearly tested by 
its transfer in tubes two miles. Salt 
at the works is now reduced to two 
cents per pound, which will, no 
doubt, cause more economy to be 
used in its manufacture and transpor- 
tation ; so far, there Appears, how- 
ever, to have been no advantage taken 
of the great evaporating improve- 
ments used at the salines in New 
York, or the sugar factories of the 
South. At Sallville, the furnaces 
are trenches dug in the earth, the 
kettles several inches thick— :-the fur- 
nace doors large and open, and placed 
under open sheds ; and in some in- 
stances streams of fresh water sweep- 
ing from the hills issue out of the 
furnace flues; but doubtless the pre- 
sent proprietors will make the neces- 
sary improvements. The salt made 
is free from all impurity, its chrys- 
tals are large by slow, and fine by 
rapid evaporation ; and white and 
brilliant, and when thrown from the 
basket, soon becomes as dry as corn 
meal; never deliquescing or giving 
off any water, even in the wettest 
weather. No settling or clarifying 
process is necessary, the water being 
a clear semi-transparent, somev.'hat 
whitish fluid, which after being re- 
leased from its great pressure in the 
deep parts of the well, seems incapa- 
ble of holding in solution, the former 
quantity of saline material. The 
slight excess of muriatic acid over 
the soda is united in the boiling with 
some tree gypsum, and precipitated 
to the bottom, where attaching itselt 
to the mettle and becoming heated, 
additions of salt are constantly made, 
till it endangers breaking the kettle, 
and is very difficult (once weekly) to 
separate from the iron by pick-axes. 
In the whole process of manufactur- 
ing this water, no trace ot iodine oi 



460 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— TAZEWELL. 



bittern water is to be found — and no 
species of settling or clarifying is 
pecessary, the salt being deposited as 
soon as milk warm, is three or four 
times daily ladled out of kettles of 
96 gallons each. At present, mea- 
dow lands, pasture and farming to 
the extent of 2,.500 acres appears to 
be in use; a saw mill, two grist 
mills and about 100 persons, and as 
many horses, compose the force of 
the place; but as the market is limit- 
ed, and not more than four cords of 
wood are necessary to make 100 
bushels of salt, the apparatus of the 
place is unnecessarily large and 
wasteful. 

"The gypsum-beds on the Saltville 
lands are perhaps the most conven- 
ient and abundant in the world, be- 
ing only five to ten feet from the sur- 



face of the earth and of the very best 
quality. Hundreds of boats and 
wagons could be usefully employed 
m its transportation, as the whole 
lands of this interior country are ad- 
mirably adapted to its use." 

"There are few places in the world 
which can vie with Saltville in beau- 
ty and novelty of scenery. The ex- 
tended meadows, — rich ridges — high 
conical peaks, — mountain coves, — 
clear springs, and the remarkable 
verdure covering the soil — set off to 
great advantage the lofty Clinch 
mountain. The Chilhoway springs 
are in the vicinity, and often the 
summer visiters add new interest." 

Seven Mile Ford, P. O. 362 
ms. S. W. by W. of W., and 287 
from R. 



TAZEWELL. 

Tazewell was created by act of Assembly in 1799, and formed out of 
portions of Russell and Wythe counties. It is bounded N. by Tug Fork 
of Sandy river, separating it from Logan, — N. E. by Giles, — E. and S. E. 
by Walker's mountain, separating it from Wythe, — S. by Clinch mountain, 
separating it from Smyth, — S. W. by Russell, — and W. by Floyd county. 
Kentucky. Its mean length is 66| miles, mean breadth lOf; and area 
1,305 square miles: — Exte^nding inlat. from 36° 54' to 37° 32' N. and in 
long, from 4° to 5° 12' W. of W. C. It is situated immediately within the 
vicinity of the sources of Clinch and Great Sandy rivers. T^e Clinch takes 
its rise seven miles N. E. of JefTersonsville, and pursues a course nearly W- 
From the eastern section of the county, the great Kanawha receives many 
tributary branches; the principal of which are the Blue Stone and Wolfe 
creeks. These have their sources within a few miles of JefTersonsville, 
and after some inconsiderable meanderings assume a N. E. direction. This 
county is traversed by several ranges of mountains, some of which rise to 
an immense height; the chief of which are the Clinch, Rich, East River, 
and Paintlick. Their general course is a little S. of W. Between some 
of these mountains are interspersed beautiful valleys, of a black, deep and 
rich soil, surprisingly fertile, and perhaps inferior to no county in the state 
for grass, which thickly covers every cultivated portion to the" very tops of 
the mountains. Ten miles N. E. is' Abb's valley a delightful vale.— Situ- 
ated at its entrance is the Stonefort, a large circular wall of stone, bearing 
on its image the stamp of great antiquity, from the ages of the trees on it, ■ 
and various other data. 'The modern savages that were first found in pos- 
session of this county appear totally ignorant, not only of this ancient cas- 
tle, but of other relics of antiquity in different parts of this valley. Here 



WESTERN A^mOINIA— TAZEW ELL. 40^ 

areslso deposited in lonely caverns, human skeletons of both sexes, and of 
various ages preserving in their composition an outline of those general 
features that characterise the Indian race. When brought into contact with 
the external air, they quickly moulder into dust. Five miles S. W. of Jef- 
fersonsville is a broken continuation of Rich mountain, termed Morris's 
Nob, a noted object of curiosity. Near its S. W. extremity, and 12 miles 
from the county seat, is the Maiden Spring Cove, a flourishing settlement, 
watered by the Maiden Spring, a S. E. branch of Clinch river. On the 
summit of Rich mountain, in view, and one and a hall miles S. is a pre- 
cipitous ledge of rocks, of .stupendous height, called the Peak — command- 
ing {I magnificent view of the surrounding country for 20 or 30 miles. 
From this, some 4 or 5 miles a little S. of E. may be seen on the top of 
Clinch mountain (immediately before it divides to form Burk's Garden) a 
rornantic assemblage of huge rocks, thrown together by the hand of nature, 
in the wildest confu.sion, clothed with a variety of perennial growth and 
matted with in:ipenetrab!e thickets of laurel; while far beneath are formed 
between their interstices, horrible caverns, and subterraneous recesses, the 
retreat of numerous wild beasts, that frequent the surrounding wilderness, 
hence its name of Bear Town. On this spot flourishes extensive groves of 
balsam copavia, a variety of copaifera officinalis and other strange vegeta- 
ble growth not found elsewhere in this region of country. 

Inexhaustible quarries of limestone rock, extending in a series of vertical 
strata from N. E. to S. W. are found in many parts of the county. Stretch- 
ing across the northern boundary are extensive beds of stone coal of excel- 
lent quality. , . 

The principle staples are cattle, horses, hogs, feathers, tow and flax-linen, 
beeswax, genseng, seneca, snakeroot, serpentaria, &c. &c. 

Compared with the elevation of the water in Great Kanawha, at the influx 
of the Greenbrier, ascertained to be 1,333 teet, the lowest elevation that can 
be given to the central mountain valleys of this count)^ must be 1,500 feetjr-; 
and the mean relative height of the arable soil of the county, at the lowest 
estimate 1,200 feet. 

Population in 1830, 5,749. It belongs to the fifteenth- judicial circuit 
and eighth district. Taxes paid stale government in 1833, $686 35 — iiijj' 
1834, on lots, $14 88— on land, 313 11— 42G slaves, $106 50—2851 
horses, $171 06—14 studs, $117 00—5 carryalls, $5 00— Total, $727 
55. No report of school commissiouer for 1832. Expended in educating 
poor children in 1833, $184 23. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 

Blue Stone, P. O. 279 ms. S. W. led. It is msulated by Clinch moun- 
ofR. and 337 S.W.ofW. —Situated ou! tain, except a narrow pass through 
Blue Stone river, in the southeru part] which its waters, by uniting into one 
of the county. i stream, are discharged into Wolf 

Burk's Garden, P. O. 274 ms.!creek, — its form is somewhat oval, 
W. of R. and 349 from W. — Situat-! 1 1 miles long and 5 wide, a beautiful 
ed 10 ms. E. of Jefl^ersonsville.i and perfect level, and naturally very 
Burk's Garden is one of the most re- 1 fertile. The settlement contains 62 
markable spots in Western Virginia, 1 families, amounting to 450 souls, 
but being out of the track of the tou-' There are 1 house^f public. worship,. - 
rists, it has not hitherto been deserib- 'free for all denominations. 1 exten- 



462 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— TYLER 



sive manufacturing flour mill, 2 tan-f 
yards, and various mechanics. It is 
well timbered with sugar maple, cher- 
ry and white oak. The under growth 
consists of Crab apple and hawthorn. 
JEFFERSONVILLE, P. T. and 
eoitnty seat, 352 ms. S. W. by W. of 
Washington,— 290 a little S. of W. 
from Richmond, — and 30 ms. N. W. 
by W. of Evansham in Wythe coun- 
ty;— lat. 37" 05' N. and long. 4° 32' 
W. of W. C. — Situated on the south 
side of Clinch river, one mile from 
its bank, and near the base of the 
Rich mountain. Besides the ordina- 
ry county buildings, it contains 20 
dwelling houses, 1 house of public 
Avorship, free for all denominations, 1 
common school, 4 mercantile stores, 
2 taverns, 1 tan^'ard, 1 saddler, 6 



joiners, 2 boot and shoe factories, 1 
blacksmith, 2 hatters, 1 painter and 1 
grist mill — and a manufacturing flour 
mill is situated a mile to the north of 
the village. Population 150 persons; 
of whom 2 are attornies, and 2 regu- 
lar physicians. 

County Courts are held on the 3i 
Monday in every month ; — Quarter- 
ly in April, June, August, and No- 
vember. 

Circuit Superior Courts of La-w- 
and Chancery are held on the 22(Z 
of April and 2od of September, by 
Judge Estill. 

Four miles N. W. of this village 
are situated CeciVs Mineral Springs, 
which bid fair to rival any mineral 
waters that have yet been discovered 
in the western country. 



TYLER. 

Tyter was created by Act of Assembly in the year 1814, and formed 
jfrom a portion of Ohio county. It is bounded N. by Marshall,- — N. E. 
^y Greene co. of Pa., and Monongalia of Va. — E. and S. E. by Harri- 
son, — S. and S. W. by Wood, — and W. by the Ohio river, separating it 
from Washington county, Ohio, — and N. W. by the same river separating 
|t from JVfonroe county. Its mean length is 27^^ miles — mean breadth 23 ; 
^and area 855 sq. miles; — extending in lat. from 39° 13' to 39° 42' and in 
long, from 3° 25' to 4° 12' W. of W. C. This county declines to the 
■:\v>est towards the Ohio, and is drained by Middle Island and Fishing creeks, 
both running diagonally through the county and emptying into the Ohio. 
The surface is exceedingly hilly and broken, but the soil is generally of 
excellent quality. Population in 1820, 2,314,-1830, 4,104. It belongs to 
the twentieth judicial circuit and tenth district. Tax — no returns. Ex- 
pended in educating poor children in 1832, $259 46— in 1833, $309 23. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Centrevillk, — situated on the 
west bank of Middle Island Creek, 
7 ms. E. of Middlebourn, and 16 
from Sistersville. It contains 15 
dwelling houses, 2 mercantile stores, 
and several mechanics. 

Fishing Creek, P.O. 330 ms. from 
R. and 266 N. W- by W. of W. 
This P. O. is situated on the head 
waters of the creek of the same name. 



which is a small stream rising in 
Tyler, flowing nearly N. W. in a 
winding course, and Avhich about 50 
ms. from its source empties into the 
Ohio about 39 ms. below Wheeling. 

Grape Island, P. O. 316 ms. 
from R, and 289 W. of W. 

Ingram's Mills, P. O. 313 ms. 
from R. and 279 from W. 

AUDIiLEBOURN, P, V and 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— VVASillNCiTON. 



463 



scat of justice, 307 ms. from R. and 
273 W. of W. in lat. 39° 32' N. and 
lonn^. 3° 55' W. of W., situated on 
Middle Island creek, 45 ms. S. W. 
of Wheeling. It contains besides 
the ordinary county buildings, 25 
dwelling houses, 1 Methodist house 
of worship, I common school, 2 mer- 
cantile stores, 2 taverns, 1 manufac- 
turing flour mill, 1 tan yard, and 1 
saddler. The principal mechanics 
are cabinet makers, house-joiners, and 
blacksmiths. In the neighborhood 
of this place on Middle Island creek, 
there is an excellent site for a manu- 
factory. The stream is large, and 
after making a bend, five miles in ex- 
tent, it returns to within 00 feet of 
the same bed, — making a fall at the 
nearest point of approximation of 12 
or 15 feet. It is thought that there 
is an abundance of iron ore and stone 
coal contiguous to this site. Middle 
Island creek is one of the principal 
streams watering this county, — it is 
about 200 miles in length, running a 
course east and west through a fer- 
tile valley, and emptying into the 
Ohio river. Population 160 persons; 
of whom 1 is a resident attorney, and 
two are regular physicians. 

Co-uniy Courts are held on the 2(1 



\Motiday in every month; Quarterly 
in March, June, August and Noccm- 
ber. 

JuDGF Fry holds his Circuit Su- 
perior Courts of Law and Chancery 
on tlie24//t of April and September. 

Pine Grove, P. O. 327 ms. from 
R. and 247 W. of W. 

SisTERsviLLE, P. O. 320 ms. from 
R. and 274 N. W. of W. This vil- 
lageis pleasantly situated on the south 
bank ot Ohio river, 50 ms. N. W. by 
W. of Clarksburg in Harrison Co., 
in a remarkably healthy neighbor- 
hood, commanding a fine view of the 
river; and possessing one of the best 
landings for steamboats and other 
craft on the Ohio. It contains about 
30 dwelling houses, 2 mercantile 
stores, 2 taverns, a school house, t 
lanyard, and various mechanics. — 
Population about 200 persons; of 
whom 1 is a regular physician. This 
town was laid out in 1814 by com- 
missioners appointed by the Legisla- 
ture, as the county seat of Tyler; but 
by a petition presented from the in- 
habitants at the session of ' 1 5 and ' 1-6,' 
the Legislature was induced to re- 
move the seat of justice to Middle- 
bourne, 9 ms. nearly east from this- 
place. 



WASHINGTON. 

WASHrNGTON was created by Act of Assembly in 1777, and formed 
from a portion of the now extinct county of Fincaslle. It is bounded N. 
by Clinch mountain, separating it irom Russell, — E. by Smyth, — S. E. by 
Grayson, — S. by Carter county of Tennessee, — S. W. by Sullivan county 
of the same state, — and W. by Scott. Mean length (including Smyth) 41 
miles, — mean breadth 18f; and area 754 square miles. — We have no 
means of ascertaming its precise extent since the severance of Smyth ; but 
an approximation may be made by reference to that county. It extends in 
laf. from 36° 35' to 36-^ 52' N. and in long, from 4° 34' to 5° 19' W. of 
W. C. This county occupies part o[ the valley between the Blue Ridge 
and Clinch mountains, and is watered by the North, Middle, and South 
Forks of llolston, which rise in Wythe and flow through this county, di- 
viding it into three fertile valleys. But Washington is not less celebrated 
for its valuable minerals, than its fertile soil, excellent pasturage, and de- 
lightful climate. The gypsum found in this county in great quantities, is 



464 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— WASHINGTON. 



said to be equal, if not superior to that of Nova Scotia, and is now being 
extensively applied to the same purposes by the farmers of Western Vir- 
ginia and Tennessee. A full account of its valuable salt works and other 
minerals has however already been given in connexion with Smyth coun- 
ty, — especially in the article on Saltville, — which village is divided by 
the line which separates the two counties. 

Population in 1820, 12,444, — 1830, 15,614, — both of which numera- 
tions wefe taken before the severance of Smyth. It belongs to the fifteenth 
judicial circuit and eighth district. Tax paid in 1834 on lot.s, $195 25 — 
land, $1,131 96—1122 slaves, $280 50—5364 horses, $321 84—39 
studs, $226 00—33 coaches. $94 50—31 carryalls, $31 00—6 gigs, 
$4 50. Total, $2286 10. The poor children in this county are educated 
on the district system, and we have no means at present of of ascertaining 
the exact amount. 



TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, <fcc. 



ABINGDON, P. T. and seat of. 
justice, 309 ms. S. W. of R. and 385 
S. W. by W. of W. in N. lat. 36° 
42', and long 4° 58' W. ot W. C. 
It is situated on the great valley road, 
about 8 miles N. of the Tennessee 
boundary, — at the south east side of 
a mountain ridge, about 7 miles dis- 
tant from either of the two main 
Forks of the Holston river. A part 
df the town stands on a considerable 
eminence, beneath which there is a 
Cavern containing a lake. 

Abingdon contains besides the or- 
dinary county buildings, between 150 
and 200 dwelling houses, — many of 
them handsome brick buildings, — 2 
Presbyterian and 2 Methodist houses 
of public worship, all of them neat 
brick edifices. A portion of the in 
habitants are followers of Baron 
Swedenborg, — in other words, belong 
to the Ntio Jerusalem Church, — but 
they possess no house of worship, 
and their preacher occasionally oc- 
cupies one or the other of the Metho- 
dist houses. 

There is an Academy for females 
and one for males, (both brick edi- 
fices,) 2 hotels kept in good style, 3 
taverns principally used for the ac- 
commodation of wagoners, 1 manu 
facturing flour mill, 9 mercantile 
houses, some of which are wholesale 
establishments, and sell jroods to the 



amount of one hundred and fifty 
thousand dollars annually, 3 groce- 
ries, 1 woolen and 2 cotton manufac- 
tures, and 1 well established nursery. 

There are 4 lanyards with saddle 
and harness manufacturies attached 
to them, 10 blacksmith shops, 1 hat 
manufactory and store, 6 wheel- 
wrights and wagnn makers, 2 cabinet 
warehouses, 3 bricklayers, 2 stone 
masons, 3 house carpenters, 3 watch 
makers and jewellers, 2 boot and 
shoe factories, 3 house and sign 
painters, 2 coppersmiths and tin plate 
workers, and 3 tailors. 

Abingdon is rapidly increasing in 
population and trade. Old houses 
are giving place to handsome brick 
buildings, which the opulent and en- 
terprising citizens are daily erecting. 
The main street has lately been Mc- 
Adamized at considerable expense, 
but greatly to the improvement of its 
utility, beauty, and coinfori. 

As a specimen of the flourishing 
condition of this town, we must men- 
tion that a quarter acre lot, situated 
near the court house, recently sold 
for upwards of $4,000. There i-3 a 
distributing post office here. Popu- 
lation 1000 persons; of whom 13 
are resident attorneys, and 3 regular 
physicians. 

Count!/ Courts are held on the ith 
Mo7hday in every month; — Quarter- 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— WOOD. 



465 



ly in March, June,- August a^id Nc-'\i\vo post offices — the one at Abing- 
vcabcr. don, and the othsr at Seven Mile 



Judge Estill holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on thie 2d Mondai/ after t.te ith 
of April and Septcinbp.r. 

It may excite some surprise when 



Ford; but sinca the severance of 
Smyth, the one at Saven Mile Ford 
is now in that county — in conss- 
quence of which we have no knowl- 
edge of any other post ofiice in this 



told that in this large and well popu-county except the one at Abingdon 
latud county, there wera in 1331 but'tha county seat. 



WOOD. 

Wood was created by Act of Asseinbiy in the year 1799, and formed 
from a portion of Harrison county. It is bounded N. E. by Tyler and 
Harrison, — E. by Lewis, — S. by Kanawha and S. W. by Jackson, — W. bv 
the Ohio river, separating it from Meigs and Athens counties, Ohio — and 
N. by the same river separating it from Washington county of the same 
state. Its mean length (before the severance of a portion to form Jackson 
■county) was 40,^ miles — mean breadth 30^; and area 1,223 sauare miles. 
It extends in Lit. from 38° 52' to 39^^.27' N. and in long, from 3*= 56' to 4° 
42' E. of W. C. Nearly the whole of this county is embraced in the val- 
ley of the Little Kanawha. and its tributaries Hughes' river, — and North 
Fork of Hughes' river. A small portion on the northwestern border is 
drained by creeks into the Ohio. The surface is much broken, but the soil 
is for the most part good. Population in 1820, 5,860, — in 1830,6,429. Itbe- 
longs to the nineteenth judicial circuit and tenth district. Tax paid in 
1833, $1,150 24— in 1834 on lots, 81 12 l2— land, $885 74— 1040 slaves, 
8260 00— 4326 horses, $259 56— 26 studs, $223 00—1 1 coaches, $28 50 
— 31 carryalls, $32 0!)—l gig, 50 cts. Total, $1901 42. Expended in 
educating poor children in 1832, $292 34 — in 1833, '(5'533 78. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, WsT OFFICES, <^c. 



Bkllevjlle. p. O. diftai't 314 
ms. both from Richmond and Wash- 
ington. 

Bull Cheek. P. O. 299 ms. W. 
of W. and 334 from R., situated 13. 
ms. above Parkersburg in a thickly 
settled neighborhood. Bull creek is 
a sniall stream which rises in Wood 
county, and empties into the Ohio, 7 
miles above Marietta in the State of 
Ohio. There are located on this 
creek several mills, mercantile stores, 
and 1 Baptist house of worship. 
The land is fertile, producing the or- 
dinary staple:-, — and is well adapted 
to grass. 

Jackson '^!LLF, P O ':h-:-tant '!:'l 
59 



ms. both from W. and E., situated on 
the Little Kanawha. It contains 12 
dwelling houses, 1 Methodist and 1 
Baptist house, of worship, 1 common 
schooL 2- mercantile, stores, 1 benevo- 
lent society, 1 tan yard, 1 giist and 
2 saw mills, and several mechanics. 
Population 64 persons; of whom 1 
is a physician. 

PAPtKERSBURG, P. V.and seat 
of jv-stice, 299 ms. from R. and 299 
N. W. of W., situated on the point 
above the confluence of the Little 
Kanawha with the Ohio river. 12 
ms. below Marietta in Ohio. Be- 
sides the ordinary cotmiy buildings, 
t ronlains 7o dwelling houses, 1 



466 WESTERN VIRGINIA— WYTHE. 



hpuse of public worship (Methodist,) 
7 mercantile stores, 4 taverns, 3 com- 
mon school, 1 steam saw mill, 1 
printing office (issuing a weekly pa- 
per,) 2 tan yards, 1 saddler, 3 cabinet 
makers, 2 boot and shoe factories, 2 
black-smith shops, 3 tailors, 2 hatters 
and 1 rope-walk. Population .500 
persons; of whom ten are resident 
attorneys, and 2 regular physicians. 
County Courts are held on the 3(i 



Pennsborough, p. O. 303 ms. 
from R. and 268 from W. 

ScHULTz's Range, P. O. 324 ms. 
from R. and 219 W. of W., situated 
on the Clarksburg road, on the wa- 
ters of Cow creek, (6 miles from its 
mouth,) which empties into the Ohio 
river; — 15 miles from Marietta and 
20 from Parkersburg. Schultz's 
Range is the name of a tract of land, 
of 25,000 acres laid ofT in lots of 



Monday in every month; Quarterly 500 acres each, all of which is in 



in March, June, August and Novem- 
ber. 

Circuit Superior Courts of Law 
and Chancery are held on the Is^ of 
April and September, by Judge Sum- 'sous 

MERS, 



this county. The northwestern turn- 
pike runs through a part of this tract, 
on Walker's creek. The range con- 
tains 5 families, in all about 30 per- 



Wythe was created by act of Assembly at the session of 1789-90, and 
formed from a portion of Montgomery. It is bounded N. by Giles, — E. 
by Montgomery, — S. by the Iron mountain, separating it from Grayson,-— 
W. by Smyth, — and N. W. by Walker's mountain, separating from Taze- 
well. The greater part of Wythe is situated in a momitain valley included 
between the Iron mountains and Walker's mountain. Its mean length 
(before a portion was taken to form Smyth) was 45| miles, — its mean 
width 22^ and its area 1998 square miles. It extends in lat. from 35*^ 44' 
to 37° 11 ' N., and in long, from 3° 34', to 4° 20' W. of W. C. 

Wythe valley is an elevated table land. From the south western part 
flow the head waters of the Middle Fork of Holston, interlocking sources 
with some of the branches of New river, which flows across the eastern 
angle of this county. The characteristic features of the scenery of this ri- 
ver are its sublimity, — its banks are generally terrible cliffs, and toppling^ 
precipices of solid limestone, often hundreds of feet in height, and inaccessi- 
ble to any foot save those of the bird and reptile. There are few plains on 
this river, and those few a're comparafively small, rarely if ever extending 
to the width of half a mile. 

The principal creeks, are Red, Cripple, Peak, Cove and Walker^s, tribu- 
taries to New river on its-northern side, and Big and Little Island and 
Poplar camp creeks on the southern. The first named creeks run S. of 
E., the latter N. E. 

The giandest and most prominent features of this county, are its moun- 
tains. Of these the largest is called Walker's mountain, which together 
with other smaller ones, such as Little Walker's mountain. Brushy, Little 
Brushy, Cove and other.s, lie between the Iron mountain on one side, and 
the Garden mountain, Clinch mountain and others (not however in Wythe 
but the adjoining counties) which are parts of the Blue Ridge on the other. 
The general-courseof all these mountains is from N. E. to S. W. and they 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— WYTHE. 4G7 

are generally connected with each other by spurs. There are two other 
mountains in this county, which are detached chains, — the one called the 
Lick, and the other Draper's mountain, the former being some 12 or 15 
miles in length, the latter 6 or 8. 

The "Rich Valley ot Holston" lying on the North Fork of that river 
commences with the head of the stream in the N. W. part of Wythe. That 
part of it lying in this county, has a pre-eminent claim to the title. There 
is in th3 eastern p:irt of this county a valley called Draper's valley, a de- 
lightful tract of some 5 or 6 miles in length, and ranging in breadth from 
half to o.ie and a half miles, hiving Draper's mountain on its N. side, and 
on the other, hills and highlands. The soil of Wythe cannot be said to be 
rich, but sufficiently fertile to produce all the necessaries of life. It pos- 
sesses the characteristic of all the soil of western Virginia, the facuhy of 
renewing itself in grass, and is peculiarly benefitted by the cultivation of 
clover.- Mi:iy if not all of the tarm-rs are learning to us 3 gypsum, and 
find it peculiarly beneficial. Small grain of all kinds is raised with facili- 
ty, as also corn and potatoes, — the latter of the finest quality. Fruits of all 
the common kinds, such as apples, pears, cherries, plums and peaches are 
easily produced, but the lateness of the season, and shortness of the summer 
often cuts off the hopes of the inhabitants in the bud. 

Wythe is rich in minerals. Iron is abundant almost every where. 
L^ad'is found on the river in abundance, and is worked with profit. There 
are three estiblishments for making lead in the county, and which manu- 
facture about 200 tons per annum. There is one iron manufactory in ope- 
ration. Gypsum is found in Wythe, though Jiot so abundant as in the 
neighboring county of Smyth. There are large beds of coal in this county, 
untouched for want of a turnpike or some improved means of transportation. 
No county in the state suffers more than Wythe for want of internal im- 
provements. Her mineral wealth has hardly commenced a developement, 
and must probably lie dormant another century, until there shall be more 
public spirit, or less sectional feeling in the legislature. There have been 
some copper and silver specimens found in workirig the lead mines, but in 
no great quantities. The elevation of Wythe is about 1600 feet above the 
level of the ocean. , , , , 

Population in 1810,8,356—1820,9,692—1830, 12,163. It belongs to the 
1 6th judicial circuit and 8th district. Tax paid in 1833, $1,805 59 — m 
1834 on lots $112 12— on land, $985 74—1,040 slaves, $260 00—4,326 
horses. $259 56—26 studs, $223 00—11 coaches, $28 50—31 carryalls, 
$32 0*0— 1 <Tif^, 50 cents. Total $1,901 42. Expended m educating poor 
children in rS32, $373 53— in 1833, $408 60. 

TOWNS. VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 

Austin viLLE, P. O. 265 ms. from lis fertile, producing well Indian corn, 
R. and 341 from W. I wheat, rye, oats, buckwheat and pota- 



toes. It is also well adapted to pas- 
turage. Extensive iron works are 
carried on in this neighborhood. 

EVANSHAMor WYTHE C. H. 
P V 253 ms. S. W. of R. and 329 S. 
sto"re."rtanva°rd, &c. Population 15. 1 W. by W. of W in lat. 36° 56' N- 
The soil of the surrounding country land long. 4^ 5' W of W. C. Besides 



Draper's V.\lley, P. O. 235 ms 
S. W. of R. and 310 S. W. of W.. 
situated 16 ms. E. of Evansham, and 
12 W. of Newborn. It contains sev- 
eral dwelling houses, 1 mercantile 



468 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— WYTHE. 



the ordinary county buildings, this; crept up to reconnoitre, and discover- 
village contains from 90 to 100 dwel-ied a large muscular Indian, sitting on 
ling houses, 1 house of public wor-ja log with his back towards the 
ship, (Methodist,) 9 miscellaneous' whites, and facing the Indian encamp- 
stores, 2 cabinet makers, 1 painter ment, engaged in mending a mocca- 
and glazier, 1 coppersmith, 1 tin plate sin. The Indian was partially con 



worker, 4 boot and shoe makers, 2 
tanyards, 3 saddlers, 1 printing office, 
issuing a weekly paper, 4 taverns 
and 6 blacksmith shops. Population 
about 600 persons ; of whom 7 are at- 
lornies and 5 regular physicians. 

County Courts are held on the 
2d Monday in every month ; — Quar- 



cealed by a tree, under which he was 
sitting, from the view of the villagers. 
White at once, though fully aware of 
the danger of the attempt determined 
to carry that Indian to Clarke, and 
leaving his companions, not thinking 
it prudent for the three of them to 
proceed for fear of discover}', he crept 



terly in March, June, August and\so{i\y up behind the Indian, who sat 

perfectly unconscious of danger, 
till he felt the grasp of While on his 
throat, and saw a pistol presented at 
his head. White in a fev/ hurried 



November 

Circuit Superior Courts of Law 
and Chancery are held on the 7th 
of April and September by Judge 
Brown. 

Early Traditions. — There is much 
traditionary lore in this county amon 



words, in the language of the tribe, 
told him that if he made any noise or 
resistance he would shoot him in- 



the old settlers. One romantic cir-jstantly through the head, but if he 
cumstance, though not exactly inac-jwent with him quietly he would pro- 
cordance with this work, maybe worth! mis8 he should return to his tribe. 



he Indian submitted to his fate and 
White carried him in triumph to 



Clarke, who immediately on seeing 



recording as evincing the difficulties 
of various sorts, which occurred in 
first settling the frontier counties of 
the state. i him, said "this is no Indian," enquiry 

The incident alluded to, is that a; being made of the prisoner who and 
man by the name of White, who lived! whence he was, he said that he was 
on Walker's creek, was out with|born of white parents, that when a 
General Rogers Clarke. The| small boy, the Indians attacked the 
General being in want of intelligence! settlement, killed all the family save 
as to the future plans of the enemy,} his elder brother, who escaped during 
and beinof desirous of obtaining infor- the onset, and took him prisoner. 



mation, sent out White by himself to 
bring him in an Indian. White 
went out, and after two days unsuc- 



He described the place from which 
he was taken. During the recital, 
the countenance of his captor appeared 



cessful hunt returned without one. i very much agitated, he asked him 
The General still being determined] several abrupt questions as to his early 



to have an Indian, sent White out the 
second time, saying take companions 
if you will. White being: remarkable 



rememberances, and finally cried out, 
I AM YOUR Brother." All circum 
stances went to confirm the truth of 



for size, strength, agility, courage andj this assertion, even to the similarity 



prudence, selected two men, and start 
ed with the determination of having 
an Indian if he went to Canada for 
him. After a days travelling they 
struck on a faint trail, which, by the 
middle of the third day, took them to 
an Indian village W^hite cautiously 



of persons. The exile was restored 
to society, and for many years sat in 
the legislature of Kentucky, but still 
so far retained his old habits and pre- 
dilections as to spend movths at a time 
in the woods 



VIRGINIA DELKGATION. 

HOUSE OF DELEGATES. 



Number of Delegates to which the, several covntiex are entitled under the 

late Constitution. 



Accomai'k, 

Albemarle, 

Alleghany, 

Amelia, 

Amherst, 

Augusta, 

Bath, 

Bedford, 

Berkley, 

Boltetourt, 

Brooke, 

Brunsw'ialf, 

Buckingham, 

Cabell, 

Campbell, 

Caroline, 

Charles City,and } 

New Kent, \ 

Charlotte, 

Chesterfield, 

Culpeper, 

Cumberland, 

Dinwiddie, 

Elizabeth City and 

Warwick, 

Essex, 

Fairfax, 

Fauquier, 

Fayette and \ 

Nicholas, ^ 

Fluvanna, 

Floyd, 

Franklin, 

Frederick, 

Giles, 

CTloucester, 

Goochland, 

Grayson, 

Greenbrier, 



2 


Greensville, 


} 


Northumberland, 




2 


Halifax, 


2 


Nottoway, 




\ 


Hampshire, 


2 


Ohio, 


2 


1 


Hanover, 




Orange, 




I 


Hardy, 




Page, 




2 


Harrison, 


2 


Patrick, 




1 


Henrico, 




Pendleton, 




2 


Henry, 




Pittsylvania, 


2 


2 


Isle of Wight, 




Pocahontas, 




2 


James City, , 




Powhatan, 




1 


Williamsburg, and 




Preston, 




2 


York, ! 


) 


Prince Edward, 




2 


Jefierson, 


2 


Princess Anne, 




I 


Kanawha, 




Prince George, 




2 


King & Q-Ucen, 




Prince William, 




I 


King (xeorge, 




Randolph, 




1 


King William, 




Rappahannock, 




Lancaster and ) 




Rockbridge, 




1 


Richmqnd ^ 




Rockingham, 




1 


Lee, 




Russel, 




1 


Lewis, 




Scott, 




1 


Logan, 




Shenandoah, 




1 


Loudoun, 




Symth, 




1 


Louisa, 




Southampton, 




Lunenburg, 




Spottsylvania, 




1 


Madison, 




Staflbrd, 




1 


Mathews and ) 




Surry, 




2 


iMiddlesex, S 




Sussex. 




1 


Mason and I 




Tazewell, 




1 


Jackson, \ 


Tyler, 




I 


Mecklenburg, 


2 


Washington, 




1 


Monongalia 


2 


Westmoreland, 




2 


Monroe, 




Wood, 




3 


Montgomery, 




Wythe, 




1 


Morgan, 




Norfolk Borough, 




1 


Nansemond, 




Peter.sburg, 




1 


Nelson, 




Richmond City, 




1 


Norfolk County, 


2 







1 


iNorlhampton, 


1 


Total 


134 



SENATE. 



The Constitution lays off the Senatorial District as follows: — 
Brooke, Ohio, Tyler, and (Marshall,) 1, — Monongalia, Preston and Ran- 
dolph, 1, — Harrison, Lewis and Wood, 1, — Kanawha, Mason, Cabell, Lo- 
gan, Nicholas, (Fayette, Jackson,) 1, — Greenbrier, Monroe, Giles, Mont- 
gomery, and (Floyd,) 1, — Tazewell, Wythe, Grayson, and (Smyth,) 1, — 
Washington, Scott, Lee, 1, — Berkley, Morgan, and Hampshire, 1, — Fred- 
erick, Jefferson, 1, — Shenandoah, Hardy, and (Page,) 1. — Rockingham, 
and Pendleton, 1, — Augusta, Rockbridge, 1, — Alleghany, Bath, Pochahon- 
tas, and Botetourt, 1, — Loudoun, and Fairfax, 1, — Fauquier, and Prince Wil-, 
liam, I, — ^Stafford, King George, Westmoreland, Richmond, Lancaster, and 
Northumberland, 1, — Culpeper, Madison, Orange, and (Rappahannock,) 
J, — Albemarle, Nelson, and Amherst, 1, — Fluvanna, Goochland, Louisa, 
.and Hanover, 1, — Spottsylvania, Caroline, and Essex, 1, — King &, Queen, 
King William, Gloucester, Mathews, and Middlesex, 1, — Accomack, 
Northampton, Elizabeth City, York, Warwick, and City of Williamsburg, 
;1, — Charles City, James City, New Kent, Henrico, and City ot Richmond, 
i, — Bedford, and Franklin, 1, — Buckingham, Campbell, and Cumberland, 
;l, — Patrick, Henry, and Pittsylvania, 1, — Halifax, and Mecklenburg, 1, — 
.Charlotte, Lunenburg, Nottoway and Prince Edward, 1, — Amelia, Pow- 
Jhatan, Chesterfield, and Town of Petersburg, i, — Brunswick, Dinwiddie, 
:and Greensville, I, — Isle of Wight, Prince George, Southampton, Surry, 
.and Sussex, i, — Norfolk, Nansemond, Princess Anne, and Borough of 
j^orfolk, 1. 

()Those counties in brackets have been created since the Constitution, from portions 
.of the districts to which they have been a.ssigned. 

The arrangement of the counties into Congre.ssional Districts since the last census, 
(is given after the District of Columbia. 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



ESTABLISHMENT, SITUATION, BOUNDARIES AND EXTENT. 

The sixteenth clause of the eighth section of the first Article of the 
Constitution of the United States gives to Congress the power 
"To exercise exclusive legislation in all cases whatsoever, over such dis- 
trict (not exceeding ten miles square) as may, by cession of particular states, 
and the acceptance of Congress, become the scat of government of the 
United States" — In pursuance of this power General Washington, by 
authority from Congress, after great research and observation selected the 
present District of Columbia, as the site for the 7nctropoIis of this Great 
Empire of Confederated Republics. It was eeded in 1790 by the states of 
Virginia and Maryland to the United States, and became the seat of govern- 
ment in 1800. 

It lies upon both banks of the Potomac, in form an exact square of 10" 
miles, containing of course 100 square miles, or 64,000 acres. Two of its 
sides run in a N. E. and S. W. direction, — at right angles to the other two 
running in a S. E. and N. W. direction. It extends in lal. from 38° 46' 
30" to 38° 58' N. nearly; and the long, of the capitol (which we assume 
as zero with respect to all other places m this country) has been found b^ 
accurate astronomical calculations to be with reference to Greenwich, the 
English point of reference, 76° 55' 30" west. 

The District on the Virginia side is bounded by the county of Fairfax,, 
and on the Marylamd, — by Prince George county on t'iie S. E. and Mont-- 
gomery county on the N. W. 

The location of the District having been determined on, the first stone to> 
mark its boundary was set in Jones's Point, the uppermost cape of Hunting: 
creek, on the 15th of April, 1791, in presence of a large concourse of 
spectators. Of the 100 miles square included in the District, 36 lying south 
of the Potomac, and included in the county of Alexandria, were ceded by 
Virginia. A strip 10 miles long, by about 8 broad )ying N. of the Potomac 
and comprehended in Washington county was ceded by Maryland. 

The surface of the District is gently undulating, affording fine sites for 
the cities within its limits. In a commercial view its situation is highly fa- 
vorable. Ships of any draught can be navigated to Alexandria, and those 
of very conside5able size to the Navy Yard on the East branch of the Po- 
tomac, at Washington. The Chesapeake and Ohio canal, and the fine 
roads which the government has made in every direction, also contribute 
much to its commercial advantages. 

SOIL. 

There is as much variety of soil as of surface in the District. The hills 
are for the most part covered with forests, and the vales arc cultivated or 



472 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

covered with uilJ shrubbery, presenting a landscupe, almost every where, 
of great beauty. Springs of the finest quality abound. 

Rock creek, Tiber creek, and the Eastern Branch of the Polomac on the 
north, — and Oxeii Rvnon the south, — and Four Miles Run on the west, — 
irrigate a great portion of the District. 

The Potomac presents a vast sheet flowing from N. W. to S. E. View- 
ed from Fort Wasliington, — with the mouth of the Ea.?tern Branch on the 
left, — tiie main stream on the right, — and the opening of Four Miles Run 
in front, it presents the appearance of a great inland sea, rather than of a 
river. 

The composition of the soil on the banks of the Potomac and the Eastern 
Brancli, is a deep alLiiolal — rich and various — accumulated from the depo- 
sites of successive ages, — and tlie gradual retreat of the waters. Frag- 
ments of primitive rocks, pyrites, gravel, sand, shells and decayed ve- 
getable substances arc mingled togetiier. 

The soil generally near the river is fertile and productive, elsewhere ra- 
ther thin, and sometimes sandy; but susceptible of great improvement. 
The most forbidding and barren looking with ordinary attention, and by 
the use of manure and gypsum, may be fertilized to an extraordinary de- 
gree. 

With such a soil, nothing is wanting but enterprise and perseverance to 
change the face of nature from a barren waste, to a blooming garden, and 
one would tliink that a market of suflicient extent to stimulate to the requi- 
site exertion was presented almost at the very doors of the farmer and hor- 
ticulturist; — if indeed tlie facilities for water transportation afforded by the 
Potomac and its branches do not bring the more distant, but more fertile 
portions of Virginia and Maryland into injurious competition. 

The Rock creek lands are of a light, loamy nature, with a substratum of 
clay. 

The staple produce of tlie country is the same with that grown in the 
adjoining portions of Virginia and Maryland, viz: tobacco, wheat, Indian 
corn, fruit, and the esculent roots. 

There is near the District, on Acquia creek, an extensive quarry of free- 
stone, and on the Seneca one of beautiful variegated marble, or pudding 
stone from which the columns in the Hall of the House of Representatives 
were made. 

The composition of the city low grounds, lying below the bights, from the 
Capitol to Halorama and to the margin of the Potomac, are alluvial, and 
appear to have been reclaimed but recently. 

Within the memory of many now living, seines have been hauled, and 
fish taken, where handsome stores now stand, in the pari', of Pennsylvania 
Avenue in which most business is now carried on, namely— between 0th 
and 10th streets. 

The extent of the marshes below (,'olumbia College bears evidence that 
a part of the stream of Rock creek once found its way across towards the 
Eastern Branch, along the foot of the bights Avhich flank the northern 
part of Washington. 

By judicious draining these swamps have been recently limited to a ccm- 
paiatively small space, but their existence has still an injuncus effect upon 
the health of the inhabitants residing in their vicinity. This fact i.s clearly 
established by the improvement of the health of all situated in the vi'-jmty 
of the low grounds from the centre market to Capitol Hill 



OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 473 

• Pieces of sound timber are often discovered from ten to fifty feet below 
the surface. In digging wells, several pieces of black looking limbs of 
trees, and entire roots have been found at a considerable depth. — An exten- 
sive stratum of carbonated limbs of trees has been discovered near Bla- 
densburg, and north of the City, and traced for a considerable distance. 

Many of th« blocks of stone that compose the walls of the Capitol con- 
tain specimens of the leaves of trees, and ligneous fragments, — and when 
exposed to the air they have sometimes shrunk. 

On turning up the surface of the soil some curiosities of Indian origin 
have been found. Round stone vessels in the shape of common pots, or 
bowls, and slone axes are sometimes picked up. A good specimen of an 
Indian axe in excellent preservation was found on the farm of Mr. Dunlop 
in Montgomery county, M6. — and is yet in his possession. Points of darts, 
and arrow heads of stone, used in Indian warfare are met with in many 
parts of the District. In some ancient records an Indian fort is mentioned, 
as standing on the banks of the Eastern Branch, not far from the spot on 
which the powder magazine is now located, — but there are now no traces 
of It to be found. 

The tenipcralure of the water of the city springs, when brought to the 
surfece of the earth at midsummer may be set down at 68° of fahrenheit, — 
the Bladensburg chalybeate at 64^, — and the stream of the Potonjarr at 85°, 
— and the Avater in the hydrants in Pennsylvania Avenue generaily, where 
the pipes ai-e sunk to a proper depth, at 56°, though it may issue "from the 
fountain at 5S°. 

GEOLOGY AND MINERALOGY. 

A few years ago a correspondent of a New York print, (generally under- 
stood to he an intelligent member of Congress) took a glance at some of the 
prominent geological features of this District; and although there be some 
imagination in the sketch, yet, there is enough of science to justify its inser- 
tion. 

It is obvious, says he to the most careless observer, that over the site of 
the Capitol of the United States, and the country far around, the waves of 
the ocean once rolled, and that these fields, now quietly tilled by the planter, 
were thrown from beneath it by some tremendous convulsion. Where the 
great concerns of this nation are now canvassed, and our politicians are 
miagining that they may provide for the perpetuity of our republic, memo- 
ry, as if mocking their schemes, points to the period when the monsters of 
the deep flowed over the spot; and no human being conceived that the wa- 
ters would not continue to hide it forever. 

The proofs of the amazing changes are numerous and conclusive. It is 
announced by the strata of earth; by the rounded stones, like those which 
grind and polish each other on the sea shore; and by the numerous secon- 
dary formations, which without analysis, instruct us satisfactorily on the 
slightest inspection. In many of the stones found even on the hights around 
us,^are distinct impressions of marine shells. The lime of which these 
shells were constituted, has been decomposed, and has vanished, or been 
incorporated with the general mass, which, when broken, exhibits the con- 
cave and convex surfaces of the marine substance, and the vacant space pro- 
duced by the slow waste of ages not now to be numbered. These stones 
are of various coinpoiition, some beiiig e-\ceedingly hard, and others soft, 
60 



474 GENERAL DESCllIPTIOIN' 

and others having the character of the coarse grey sandstone, or what has 
I think erroneously been called gr-anvilar-quartz." 

The material of the soil is clay, discolored by the oxide of iron. It be- 
comes fixed by fire, and no place can boast of greater facilities for brick 
making. 

Rock creek, and its immediate vicinity, is the h'ne between the primitive 
formation and the tertiary ; from Rock creek up the Potomac, the borders 
of the stream is pregnant with primitive rocks in situ and in boulders, with 
the exception of a few small pieces of alluvial soil here and theie, in she 
valley of the river. This is the case for twenty miles or more, when the 
country changes to old red sandstone, which continues 20 or 25 miles fur- 
ther up the river, with occasional ridges of brecca or pudding stone: mar- 
ble shows Itself in various places along tire vall-ey below and above Mono- 
cacy. Aboirt a mile, however, east of the entrance of Rock ereek into the 
Potomac, on the southern point of the city, near the Glasshouse, the final 
termination of the primitive rocks that line the bed and banks of the Poto- 
mac above, clearly takes pfece, In digging wells beyond this point, rocks 
or stones seldom obtrude: the all»via,l soil every where prevails. — Rock 
creek separates the primitive from the alluvial soil. In the former gneiss 
abounds, which is succeeded by the amphibolic rock or grunstein. The 
gneiss contains small crystalised tubes of magnetic iron, veins of feldspath 
and quartz of opaque white color. The rock of the Great Falls of the 
Potomac consists chiefly of micaceous schist, — the mica schistoide of Hauy, 
or glimmer schiefer of the Germans, and contains grains of iron which 
attract the magnetic necdfe. The stone, with which the basins of the Pe^ 
tomac canal are lined, is a species of sandstone (gris) similar to that know^n 
by the name of gris des mouilliores [sandstone of coal-beds.] The rock 
employed to form the foundation or base of the houses of Washington, is a 
species of gneiss, composed of feldspath, quartz and mica, of a leafy tex- 
ture, owing to the abundance and disposition of the mica. It contains primi- 
tive sulphurous iron — and also particles of the same metal, which are at- 
tracted by the needle. At Fort Washington there is a ferruginous clay^ 
kncvwn hy the name of hot, whicii is employed to dye cloth and thread, of a 
reddish color. This substance, when heated, attracts the magnetic needle. 
The moulds of petrified shells of the genus area weighing several poimds, 
have been dug up at this place. 

Robinson, in his catalogue of American mineralogy, furnishes the folluw-' 
ing for the District of Columbia : 

Flint, — on the shores of the Eastern branch of the Potomac near tfie 
Navy Yard, in small nodules, — Hornstonc, containing organic rertnains, 
agatized wood, woodstone, — three miles north from Washington, sometimes 
invested with minute crystals of quartz, — fine specimens and abundattt. 
Schorl — In Georgetown — in gneiss — lignite and pyritical fossil wood ate 
found abundantly in digging wells. Iron ore — in the vicinity of the wood- 
stone locality, in detached masses on the surface — organic remairis in sand- 
stone — abundant. 

CLIMATE. 

The prejudices that some time back existed averse to the general health 
of the District, have been dissipated by the monthly publication of meteo- 
lological observations, and the interments in the public grive yards, authen- 



OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 475 

ticated by the board of health. The climate of course resembles iliat of the 
adjoining parts of Maryland and Virginia. The severity of the winters, 
or cold seasons, is no doubt of lute years much mitigated. In 1780, Mr. 
Jefferson says, the Chesapeake bay was solid ice from its head to the mouth 
of the Potomac. At Annapolis, where it is 5^: miles between the nearest 
points of land, the ice was from 5 to 7 inches thick quite across, so that 
loaded carriages went over it. In January, 1772, the snow in the District 
of Washington was nearly three feet deep, and in some places it drifted to 
ten or twelve feet. Of late years not more than as many inches have fallen. 
Formerly the river, near Dumfries, was frequently frozen over in Novem- 
ber, — heavy snows fell in the same month, and loaded the forest trees, till their 
brafiches broke under the pressure. The climate, as cultivation progresses, is 
rapidly improving. The District js now seldom visited with the long or 
severe winters, of which our early settler.? so feelingly complained. Fraiice, 
as well as America, in its uncultivated state, had hard winters. — In the time 
of Julius Caisar, the Rhine was frozen over, and neither the olive nor the 
vine was then cultivated. A Gallic winter, once proverbially severe, is now, 
under a state of high cultivation, mild and pleasant. In the daj-s of Horace, 
mountains near Rome were covered with snow. 

The climate of Britain, ho\vever, is a remarkable exception; it appears, 
in our days, to continue as it was, in the times of Tacitus, moist, cloudy, 
and rainy. — So we are encouraged, on the authority of the ancients to look 
forward to a progressive improvement and material mitigations on the rigors 
of winter, when our soil shall be more generally opened by cultivation ; we 
may not then be tortured with those e.Ktremes of heat and cold, under which 
we now labor, varying from 18° below zero, to 98° above, of fohrenheit. 

In summer, the District is visited with fi-equent thundergusts, though, on 
the whole they are beneficial, as they tend lo purify the atmosphere, and 
mitigate the sultriness of the season, which is often as oppressive as within 
thc-tropics. The most remarkable of these tempests or tornadoes occurred 
in June, I81I, and August, 1814; during the former, large hailstones 
weighing three or four ounces, fell, and destroyed every pane of glass on 
the north side of the houses in Alexandria: and, in the latter instance, many 
houses were blown down and trees laid prostrate, much to the terror of the 
British, who at that time held for 24 hours the occupation of the city. 

We have no doubt that the deg-ree of caloric has considerably increased, 
since the forest trees were cut dowai on our commons, and wide gravelled 
avenues formed: the difference of temperature in favor of the forest shade 
is, by some philosophers, reckoned at one fifth less than on an open space. 
Bordering as the District does on so many water courses, it may be naturally 
presumed, that its inhabitants, in the summer months, are not free from the 
annoyance of insects. The m,usquetoe is the most formidable of this de- 
scription ; but houses on an elevated site, or with a thorough draught of air, 
are seldom troubled with them. On the low grounds, and on the borders 
of swamps, ephemeral insects, chiefly of aquatic origin, in swarms of va- 
rious descriptions, make their appearance; musquetoe curtains, however, so 
cotDmor} in Carolina, are here very seldom required for the comforts of the 
bed chamber. 

It may naturally be e.xpected that the sudden changes of the atmosphere, 
— ^though in sound constitutions, they may harden the body, — yet with the 
more delicate, produce in winter and spring, colds, coughs, rheumatic affec- 
tions, — and in the fall, bilious fevers, agues, &c.: nevertheless that part of 



476 GENERAL DESCRIPTION, &c 

the District in which Washington is located, is at least as healthy, if not 
more so. than any other portions of the Union, containing an equal number 
of inhabitants. 

ABORIGINES. 

Of the aborigines of the District we have a very imperfect account. In 
1608 the first attempt to explore the Chesapeake and its tributary streams 
was made by Smith. Forty principal and subordinate tribes, occupied the 
shores of Virginia and Maryland at the time, of whom the Powhatans, 
the Manahoacs and Monacans were the chief. The Powhatans roamed 
from the shores of the Chesapeake to the Patuxent in Maryland: the 
Manahoacs and the Monacans on the territory contiguous to York and 
Potomac rivers. The Shawanees probably inhabited that part of Mary- 
land which lies between the Patuxent and the Patapsco rivers, and from 
the Chesapeake to the Alleghanies. The Susquehanocks, it is believed, 
lived on the banks of the Susquehannah in Harford county, Maryland, 
towards the westward, penetrating considerably into Pennsylvania. The 
Fockwocks and Nanticokes possessed Kent, Q.ueen Anns and Talbot 
counties, Maryland, from the Sassafras river to the Choptank : and the lat- 
ter tribe, Dorchester and Somerset counties. 

The Manahoacs and Monacans were in alliance with each other, and 
waged a confederate and perpetual war against the Powhatans. It is pro- 
bable, and it is generally admitted, that they were occupiers of the terri- 
tory which forms the present District of Columbia. The Manahoacs, it is 
asserted by Colden, afterward assumed the name of Tuscaroras, deserted 
their country in Virginia about 1712, and repairing to the west, joined 
the Iroquois. In 1669, when a census was taken, it was found that in 
sixty-two years, one-third of their number were wanting. The valley at 
the foot of the Capitol Hill, washed by the Tiber creek, the Potomac and 
the Eastern Branch, it is stated on the authority of some of the early 
settlers, was periodically visited by the Indians; Avho named it their fishing- 
ground, in contradistinction to their hunting ground; and that they assem- 
bled there in great numbers in the spring months to procure fish. Green- 
lief's Point was the principal camp and the residence of the chiefs, where 
councils were held among the various tribes thus gathered together. The 
comcidence of the location of the National Legislature, so near the site of 
the council house of an Indian nation, cannot fail to excite interesting re- 
flections in the mind of the intelligent reader. It is highly probable that 
General Washington was acquainted with this tradition, 

POPULATION 

In 1800 14,093 Slaves, .3,244 

" 1810 24,023 Increase in ten years, 9,930 " .5i395 

" 1820 33,039 " " 9,060 " 6,377 

" 1830 39,868 " » 6,819 " 6,054 

GOVERNMENT. 

The Congress of the United States is the Legislature of the 
District of Columbia, and the President of the United Statea its highest 



ALEXANDRIA. 



477 



eTecutive officer. The ordinary municipal control is exercised by a Mayor 
and Corporation. 



Judiciary — Circuit Court. 



WiLLiAiff Cranch, of Washington, 

BUCKNOR ThRUSTON, 

James S. Morsel, 
Francis S. Key, 
Alex. Hunter, 
William Brent, 
Edmund J. Lee, 



Georgetown, 
IVashington, 



Alexandria, 



Chief Judge, 
Assista?(,t, 

Attorney, 
Marshall, 
Clerk, 
Clerk- 



Salary, $2,700 

2,500 

2,000 

Fees, &c. 



The Chief Judge of the Circuit Court holds also a District Court. 

Orphan^ s Court. 

Samuel Chase, of Washington, Chief Judge, Salary, $1,000 

Henry Neal, " " Register, Fees, «fcc. 

Christopher Neal, " Alexayidria, Judge, " $800 

Alexander Moore, " " Register, Fees, &c. 

The Circuit Court for the District is held at Washington, on the first 
Monday in May and December, and at Alexandria on the second Mon- 
day in April and the first Monday in November. The District Court is 
held on the first Monday in June and November. 

ALEXANDRIA, 



Alexandria originally called 
Belhaven, a Post Town and Sea 
Port, situated on the western bank of 
the river Potomac, near the head of 
tide water, on the south corner of the 
District, 6 miles south of the City of 
Washington, and 180 ms. from the 
ocean. The meridian of Washing- 
ton passing through the Capitol, 
leaves the central part of Alexandria, 
near 3' to the E. — Lat. of Alexan- 
dria 38° 48' N. 

This town lies principally in 
the District of Columbia, but a small 
part of it is in the state of Virginia. 
It was incorporated in 1779 by the 
state ©f Virginia, and that part of it 
which lies within the District was 
ceded to the General Government in 
1801. The laws of Virginia, enacted 
previous to that time, still remain in 
force in the town and county of Alex- 
andria, except those which have been 
repealed by Congress. The muni- 
cipal government consists of a Coun- 
cil of IG representatives and a Mayor 



Four members of the Council are an- 
nually elected in each of the 4 wards 
into which the City is divided, an^ 
the Mayor is elected every year by 
the Council. The political situatioi'\ 
of Alexendria in common with the. 
other portions of the District of Co- 
lumbia is singular. The President 
of the United States is the Governor, 
and Congress, the Legislature of the 
District, but the people have no voice 
nor are their sentiments officially 
heard, in. any of the political concerns 
ot the country. The Circuit Court of 
the United States, for the District of 
Columbia, sits in Alexandria twice a 
year, and its expenses are defrayed 
by the General Government. From 
the decision of the Court, there are 
appeals to the Supreme Court of the 
United States. 

Alexandria is very handsomely 
situated. The streets are laid out on 
the plan of Philadelphia, crossing 
each other at right angles, and are 
generally well paved. It is consider- 



47S 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA, 



ed remarkably healthy, and the view 
from the City is very fine. The town 
is situated in the bottom of a v^alley 
which to the eye of an observer is 
terminated in every direction by lofty 
and verdant hills. To the north he 
sees the City of Washington, — the 
Capitol with its beautiful columns, 
white walls and towering dome, form- 
ing a most conspicuous object; to the 
south, the broad translucent expanse 
of the Potomac opens upon him, with 
Fort Washington, lying like a white 
line on its distant margin, opposite to 
Mount Vernon. 



The river opposite to the town is a 
mile in breadth, and varies from 34 
to 52 feet in depth, in the ship chan- 
nel, which here washes the shore, — 
of course the harbor is naturally very 
fine, and it has been much improved 
by the erection of large and commo- 
dious wharves. 

Commerce. — Alexandria carries 
on an extensive trade in flour, tobac- 
co, sumach, fish, lumber and other 
articles, with the Southern states, 
West Indies and Europe. 



Barrels. Half Barrels. 
The.mspectionof flour in 1829, was 178,874, and 5,789 

1830, " 166,386, " 6,385 

1831, " 206,294, " 6,001 
Besides an extensive trade with tlie eastern ports of the United States, the 

exports to foreign countries for the last 3 years, were in amount as follows: 
1809 - - - - - $687,259 

1830,' . , - - - 628,142 

1831, ... - - 864,484 

On the 31st of December 1831 the)clear revenue from the town of Alex- 
tonnage belonging to the town wasjandria, during the period above men- 
8,230 tons, and it is still increasing, tjoned, to upwards of four millions of 
There are 3 Banks in Alexandria dollars. 

with an aggregate capital of one mil- Religious and Moral Associa- 
lion, seven hundred thousand dollars, tion.s. Manufactories, &lc. — 
and 3 incorporated insurance compa- There are in this town 9 houses of 
nies. The amount of real estate is public worship, 2 Episcopalian, 2 
assessed al two millions seven hundredjPresbytt-rian, 1 Friends', 2 Metho- 
thousand dollars; and according toidist, 1 Catholic and I Baptist. There 
authentic information from the treasu-jis also a phi!o.sophical society, and 
ry department of the United States, an incorporated Library, containing 
the town paid into the treasury from about 4,000 volumes, a Library insti- 
the 31st of December 1791 to the 31st tuted by an association of apprentices 
December 1829 inclusive, on account and other minors, a savings fund in- 



of customs, three millions, seven hun- 
dred and thirty seven thousand, one 
hundred and sixty one dollars and 



stitution, an orphan asylum, a poor 
house and dispensary, a bible, mis- 
sionary and temperance society, a 



twenty seven cents, — on account of the colonization society, a benevolent so- 
post office, one hundred and seventy|ciety for improving the condition of 
three thousand, seventy three dollarsithe people of color, a society for fur- 
and thirty four cents, — for direct tax'nishing employment to the indus- 
in the years 1815-16, eleven thou-!trious, indigent, and several for sup- 
sand, one hundred and fifty dollarsiplying food, clothing and fuel to the 
and seventy cents. The amount ofjpoor in winter. There are several 
internal revenue which cannot be ac-jbaking establishments, where ship 
curately ascertained would swell thejbread and crackers arc made equal to 



ALEXANDRIA. 



479 



any iiianafacturecl in the United States 
or elsewhere, 2 ship yards, an exten- 
sive brewery, and several tanneries, a 
foundry upon a large scale, with a 
manufactory of steam engines and va- 
rious machinery for cotton factories, 
&c. and several manufactories of se- 
gars, on an extensive scale. Alexan- 
dria contains a handsome market 
house, at which a market is held eve- 
ry morning. It is generally Avell 
siipplied with meats, fish, fruits and 
vegetables in their season. In the 
latter part of the spring, wild straw- 
berries abound in the adjacent coun- 
try, and are brought in great quanti- 
ties to market. Over the market 
house is the Court-house, clerk's of- 
fice, council chamber, town hall and 
library; and in the upper story of the 
same building an extensive and well 
arranged Museum. Over the centre 
of this building is a steeple in which 
an excellent clock tells the hours on 
a bell, that weighs fifteen hundred 
pouitds. 

There is a boarding school for 
young men, in which the languages, 
mafbemiatics, philosophy, and every 
useful branch of education is taught. 
A part of the course consists of a se- 



ries of lectures on astronomy, chemis- 
try, «fee. in which the principles of the 
sciences treated of are illustrated by 
experiments with suitable apparatus. 
There are also boarding schools for 
young ladies, conducted by ladies, in 
which are taught all the branches of 
polite and fashionable education, and 
a boarding school for young ladies 
under the charge of Four Sisters of 
Charity from Emmittsburg, in the 
state of Maryland. This institution, 
though but lately established, and not 
yet completed, is in a flourishing con- 
dition. 'When finished it will have 
connected with it an orphan asylum. 
There are also in Alexandria, free 
schools for children of both sexes, and 
about dO othet schools, exclusive oi 
Sunday schools. In the vicinity of 
Alexandria is established a Protestant 
Episcopal Theological Seminary on 
an elevated situation, commanding an 
extensive and delightful view of the 
District of Columbia, the river Poto- 
mac and the surrounding country. 
This institution at present occupies 
two large four story buildings, hav- 
ing space enough between them for 
the erection: of a centre structure. 



Population oj Alexandria, at different periods. 



Population 1810— 
Free white males, 
Do. Females, 



2,525- 
2,378 



All persons except Indians not taxed. 
Slaves, • .i . . - 



Total white population tStO, 4,90-3 

.... 836 

.■---■ - 1,488 



Total population in 1820, 7,227 



In 1820— 
Free white males, 

Do. Females, 
Foreigners not naturalrzed, 



2,667 

2,948 

153 



Total white population 1820, 5,768 



480 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA, 



Free colored males, 

Do. Females, 

Slaves, male, 
Do. Female, - 



In J830— 
Whites, 
Colored, free, 
Slaves, 



nlales. 


Females. 


2,712 


2,969 


565 


816 


462 


739 



A III u. lit foi waidi. 


- 


461 


- 


707 


. 


606 


- 


820 


n in 1820, 


8,371 


Total. 




5,681 




1,381 




1,2013,- 


-8,263 



Internal Imfrovements. — A may appear almost incredible. The 



canal is now in progress, which will 
probably bring a great accession o( 
business to this town. This canal is 
designed to continue the C/iesaj}cakc 
and Ohio Canal to Alexandria, and 
will be connected with that great 
work by a magnificent aqueduct 
thrown across the river Potomac, im- 
mediately above Georgetown. The 
perpendicular descent from the sur- 
face of the river, above the Little 
Falls to tide water, is about 36 feet, 
and as the canal will be brought on a 
level from the head of the Falls to 
Alexandria; it is obvious that at the 
latter place, it will afford water power 
for manufactories to a very great ex- 
tent. Towards the construction of 
the Alexandria canal, the government 
of the United States have appropriat- 
ed $100,000. This city is connected 
with the interior of the state of Vir- 
ginia by several turnpike roads, — 
down which the principal part of the 
flour is brought that comes to market; 
and there are 8 steamboats that regu- 
larly ply between this and other ports, 
several of which arrive and depart 
daily. 

Fisheries. — As Alexandria is the 
shipping port of the District of Co- 
lumbia, and one of the principal marts 
for the immense fisheries of the Poto- 
mac, it may be well to mention, that 
in the spring of the year quantities of 
shad and herrings are taken, which. 



number of shad frequently obtained at 
a haul is 4,000 and upwards, ahd of 
herrings from 1 to 300,000. In the 
spring of 1832, there' were taken in 
one seine at one draught, a few more 
than 950,000 accurately counted. — 
The prosecution of the numerous fish- 
eries gives employment to a large 
number of laborers, and affords an op- 
portunity to the poor to lay in at very 
reduced prices, food enough to last 
their families during the whole year. 
The shad and herrings of the Poto- 
mac are transported by land, to all 
parts of the country, to which there is 
a convenient access from the river; 
and they are also shipped to various 
ports in the United States and West 
Indies. The lowest prices at which 
these fish sell when just taken, are 
25 cents per thousand for herrings, 
and $1 50 per hundred for shad, but 
they generally bring higher prices, 
often $1 50 per thousand for the form- 
er, and from $3 to 4 per hundred for 
the latter, — in the height of the sea- 
son a single shad weighing from 6 to 
8 pounds, is sold in the market of the 
District for 6 cents. Herrings, how- 
ever, are sometimes taken so plenti- 
fully, that they are given away, or 
hauled on the land as manure for 
want of purchasers. Some idea may 
be formed of the importance of these 
fisheries from the following state- 
ment: — 



Number of fisheries on the Potomac, about 
" of laborers required at the Landing 



150 
6,500 



ALEXANDRIA. 



481 



Number of vessels employed, .... 

'• of men to navigate these vessels, 

" of shad taken in good season, which lasts only 
about 6 weeks, 

*• of herrings under similar circumstances, 
Quantity of salt required to cure the fish, — Bushels, 
Number of barrels to contain the fish. 



460 
1,350 

22,500,000 

750,000,000 
995,000 
£95,000 



The herring is not eaten at the best 
tables when fresh, but cured, they are 
admired by all, keep remarkably well, 
And are most highly flavored when 
they have been for 2 years in salt. 
\ The Potomac river can boast of the 
largest shad fisheries in the United 
States. The advantages of the her- 
ring fisheries, she divides with some 
other rivers of the south, but it is 
equalled by none, unless it be the 
Susquehanna. 

Should the Chesapeake and Ohio 
canal be continued to the Ohio river, 
it is obvious that the fisheries of the 
Potomac will be of great advantage 
to the country west of the Alleghany 
mountains, in supplying in great 
abimdance a delicious and A'aluable 
article of food of which its waters 
are entirely destitute. Taken into 
view the vast number of fish annu- 
ally caught, and the probable in- 
crease in the demand, one might be 
led to fear that the supply will at 
length beexhausted,^rhowever ample 
at the present time, but when we re- 
flect that the spawn from an exceed- 
ing small number will generate into 
myriads and myriads of fish, such a 
fear is at once done away ; the quan- 
tity is now very great and increas- 
ing, — it is admitted that next to the 
small and delicate Nova Scotia her- 
ring, that of the Potomac is by far m.ore 
nutricious than any found elsewhere 
in the waters of North America. 
During the summer, the fall, and 
winter months, the variety of good 
fish is small, consisting principally 
of the large white perch and rock 
fish of moderate size, taken with the 
line, and of carp and winter shad . 
but at certain seasons o\ the year the 
61 



supply is abundant indeed. In the 
latter part of the winter and early ii» 
spring, great numbers of large rock 
fish, weighing from 25 to 120 lbs. 
are taken in seines, just above the 
salts and brought to the markets in 
the District of Columbia. About 8 
years since there were taken at one 
of the fisheries on the Virginia side 
of the riverj about 3 miles below 
Washington,* at one draught of the 
seine, four hundred and fifty rock fish 
averaging sixty pounds each, as is 
well attested, and was recorded in the 
newspapers of the day. Sturgeon 
also abounds in the Potomac, and are 
of enormous size weighing from 75 
to 150 pounds, in some places they 
are considered a great delicacy, as in 
the James, the Potomac, and the Hud- 
son rivers, — while on the Delaware 
they are considered worthless and 
scarcely eaten. The sturgeon comes 
up the Potomac twice a year, which 
is in the months of iMay and August. 
— presses up to the very fool of the 
first fails, and is taken in the great- 
est quantity within the District, in 
times of freshets in the strong water 
between Georgetown and those falls. 
They are taken either m floating nets, 
with large m-cshes, or by an_ inge- 
niously contrived hook, not baited, 
but by a curious device, prepared to 
pierce him on the body so certainly 
and so deeply, as to hold him and 
bring him in, notwithstanding his 
great size and strength; this latter 
mode of taking the sturgeon is be- 
lieved to be peculiar to the Potomac. f 



*The noted fiahery called the Sycamore 
LANDiyG, belonging to Gen. Mason. 

+" The hook is made of stout, well-tem- 
pered iron, keenly pointed and barbed 



482 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



Water Fowl. — The celebrity of|necessary. In the following account 



have availed ourselves largely 
of the information contained under 
the "Water Fowl," in a useful little 



the water fowl of the Potomac, and 
the scarcity of information upon the 
subject, render an article upon them 

with steel, is about thirty inches in length, 

bent at the lower end, and much in the 

way with ordinary tish-hooks, in propor- 
tionately larger dimensions, and so as to 

place the barb on the inside of the curva 

ture; but the stem, or that part to wiiich 

the line is attached, and which is about 

twenty-four inches long, instead of being 

straight, is bent nearly as the segment ol 

a circle, the diameter of which would be! below, and the facility with which the 

equal to the length of the hook — to this! stem plays in the open loop, so operates as 

to cause a sudden turn in the hook and to 
reverse the position of the barbed ^nd, 
and thn^w it directly under the fish, with 
so smart a tug, that it at once designates 
to the practised hand of the wary fisher- 
man, the critical instant at which he is to 
make his last eiTort ; and he succeeds the 
more readily m the thrust, because from 



the line touching the fish, consequently 
that part of the stem of the hook attached 
to the line reaches the fish, with the barb 
part turned from it, and as the back of the 
stem is drawn on, being circular, only a 
small part of it at a time is in contact with 
the fish ; but at a certain point of this con- 
tact, near the middle of the entrance of 
the curve, the weight, from its position 



circular part is attached an iron weight 
cylindriacally, formed of three or four 
pounds weight by a stifi' loop, but roomy 
enough to allow the weig:ht to slide up or 
down the stem, to which the hook is 
thrown into the water, this weight not on- 
ly answers the end ot the common sinker 
to keep the line stretched at the depth re- 
quired, but by its superior gravity, so scon 
as it has reached the point prescribed by 
the length of the line given out, it draw's 
the hook down in a perpendicular position 
in the direction ol* the line, and by its 
power of sliding on the stem of the hook, 
adjusts itself just at the bottom of this, 
and where the curvature in the opposite 
direction, that forms the hook proper, be- 
gins, by the instrumentality of this weight 
so placed, and opeialing on the peculiar 
form of the hook — while suspended by a 
tight line, the hook remains, with the back 
of the circular stem turned towards the 
hand of the fisherman that holds the other 
end of the line, and "of course with the 
barbed end turned from him, whether held 
still, or kept in motion. 

Thus prepared the fisherman, some- 
times drags, as it is termed, for the stur- 
geon ; that is, he rows his light little boat 



the position of the barb, it is brought up 
directly against the belly of the fish, which 
is of soft skin, unprotected by the bony 
shields dispersed over the back and sides, 
So soon as the sturgeon is hung, he makes 
ofi' with great strength and swiftness, the 
line is plaid out to give him play, and the 
little boat, if before stationary, is cast 
loose, so that when the line is out, the 
boat, to which one end was secured, is for 
a time darted so rapidly through the wa- 
ter that her bows are brought almost under^ 
his speed however presently slackens, his 
strength exhausted, and he yields himself 
up to be drawn in and hoisted on board. 
An instance occurred near the Little Falls 
some years ago, of the strength and power 
of this fish. A noted fisherman, whose 
name is well known, had incautiously 
made fast one end of the line to his leg, 
and having hung a sturgeon, was dragged 



slowly backwards and forwards, with his; over board and drawn cff by it, to a'con 
line suspended from the stem at a given 
depth ; or, sometimes at anchor he lays in 
wait, his line stretched perpendicularly 
under him, with the hook near the bottom 
—when the fish strikes against any part 
of the line, it is so stirred by its great 
weight as to be sensibly felt by the fisher- 
man, Avho then hauls rapidly but steadily 
up, until he feels that the hook has come 
in contact, and has turned suddenly in- 
ward, the barbed part towards the fish; 
when by an instantaneous and strong jerk, 
he buries the barb in its body Here is 
the development of the contrivance of 
this hook, and here too is exerted all the 
tact of the fisherman — the hook is drawn 
up as before described with the convex 
part of the stem towards the fisherman. 



si-derable distance in the river, sometimes 
above and sometimes under water, but 
from his intrepidity and skill in swim- 
ming, he was enabled to get through this 
perilous conflict safely, aiKl to conquer 
the sturgeon and tow him on shore, with- 
out the aid of his boat. It remains to ac- 
count, as to this interesting fishing, by 
which the amateurs for sport, as well as 
the more humble, for gain, are much at- 
tracted, hoAv it happens that the stugeon 
would seem to seek, rather than avoid the 
line put out for his destruction, when there 
is no bait about it to invite him. 

Sportsmen and fishermen, to be good in 
their way, as is known, must be well ac- 
quainted with the habits of the animal 
they would circumvent and bring within 



ALEXANDRIA. 



483 



work upon the District of Columbia, are denominated drift fowl, from the 
by Jonathan Elliot, Esq. circum.stance of their collecting in 

The summer duck {Anas Sponsa vast bodies, when at rest, in the mid- 
of Wilson,) is the only specie.s of the die of the river, or feeding in deep 
numerous water fowl which frequent I water, obtaining their food by diving 



the Potomac, which breed upon its 
borders; the others are migratory. 
The whole tribe has been sensibly 



to the bottom. The bald face and the 
sprig tail, although they avoid the 
marshes, leed on the margin of the 



diminished of late years, by the newirivcr in shallow water, as do the 
method of taking them which willjmarsh fowl, by dipping their heads 

and necks under only ; and all these 
described as marsh fowl, are found 
feeding on the shores of the rivers 
occasionally, except the blue winged 
teal, which frequents the marshes ex- 
clusively, and only such as produce 
the wild oat, his favorite food. This 
duck too differs from all the others 
in the time and period of his visits 
to this quarter of the country; they 
are earlier made and of shorter du- 
ration : he comes about the first of 
September, and goes about the first 
of November; all the other kinds of 
duck arrive with us, as the swan 
and geese, from the middle of Octo- 
ber to the middle of November ; and 
depart from about the first to the 
middle of March. As to the quali- 
ties for the table, of these fowl, the 
lyoung swan is considered a great 
delicacj"^ — while the old one is always 
hard, and vi'ithout agreeable flavor. 
The wild goose is deemed much su- 
perior to the tame goose. The can- 
vass back, it is known, stands unri- 
valled in the taste of the epicure, as 
the most delicious bird in this or any 
other country. The red head sho- 
veler, and the blue winged teal are 
but little inferior to it, in the estima- 
tion of connoisseurs, in that way; and 
of all the other kinds of these ducks, 
there is not one, when in good con- 
dition, that is not fine game. Most 
of them are found in abundance dur- 
ing the season from the immediate vi- 
cinity of the city of VVashington, down 
the salts, and some of them are seen 
in both the salt and fresh water ha- 
bitually or occasionally. 

The Swan is not found nearer 



be presently described, and the in 
creased avidity with which they are 
sought by persons to supply the mar- 
kets. They are still, however, nu- 
merous, — and consist of various spe- 
cies, — The sican, the wild goose, and 
a great variety of ducks, as the canvass 
back, the red head shoveler, the black 
head shoveler, the duc-a-malard, the 
black duck, the blue wing teal, the 
gree?i tving teal, and the loidgeon. 

"Of these, the fiv-e species first 
mentioned are what are called river 
fowl, frequenting only the fresh river; 
and the last five kinds are known by 
the name of marsh fowl, feeding 
principally in the marshes bordering 
on the river. Again, of the river 
fowl — the canvass back, the red head 
shoveler, and the black head shoveler 

their toils; the simple solution, in this 
case, is said to be, that it is the habit of 
the sturgeon to rub itself against any 
thing stationary that it meets with in the 
narrow waters. 

We can't dismiss this subject without 
mentioning another singular habit belong- 
ing peculiarly to this fish, that of occa- 
sionally throwing itself to a considerable 
distance above water, to the height of at 
least eight or ten feet, so that in the pause 
between the ascent and descent, the whole 
fi.sh is seen suspended in a horizontal po- 
sition for a moment, in the air. They 
have sometimes fallen in this way, very 
much to the risque of those on board, in 
the boats plying at the Ferry in George- 
town, in this District: and an unfortunate 
occurrence took place during the revolu- 
tionary war, productive of a most serious 
accident, on the North river. A sturgeon 
came down from one of these leaps into a 
ferry-boat while crossing that river, on 
the lap of an American officer, who was 
a passenger and sitting in the sturn, with 
such violence as to break his thigh and 
occasiion his death " 



484 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA' 



than about 30 miles below Washing- 
ton : at the mouth of Occoquan, on 
the right bank of the river is his 
highest feeding ground, which is the 
lowest spawning place of the white 
shad. Here, and for some 30 or 40 
miles below, this noble bird is seen 
floating near the shores, in flocks of 
some two or three hundred, white as 
the driven snow, and from time to 
time, emitting fine sonorous, and oc- 
casionally melodious songs, so loud 
that they may be heard on a still eve- 
ning two or three miles ; there are 
two kinds, so called from their res- 
pective notes — the one the trumpeter, 
and the other the slooper ; the trum- 
peter is the largest — and when at 
full size, will measure from five to 
six feet from the bill to the point of 
the toe, and from seven to eight feet 
from the tip of one wing to the tip of 
the other, when stretched and expand- 
ed. They are sagacious and wary, 
and depend more on the sight than 
on the sense of smell. On a neck 
nearly three feet in length, they are 
enabled to elevate their head so as to 
see and distinguish with a quick and 
penetrating eye objects at a great dis- 
tance, and by means of this same 
length of neck they feed in slack 
tides, by immeriing, as is their ha,bit, 
nearly all of the body — and ihromng 
only their feet and tails out, in three 
or four feet water, and on the flatty 
shores they Irequent, generally be- 
yond gun-shot; the sportsman avail- 



a few weeks before their departure 
about the first of March, they gradu- 
ally become thinner in flesh, and m 
the latter part of their sojourn here, 
are found so poor and light, that 
when shot, the gunner gets nothing 
fit for use but the feathers: whether 
this circumstance be owing to their 
having exhausted the means of sub- 
sistence at their feeding places, or 
that they are taught by him who 
rules the universe, in small as well 
as great things, thus by abstaining, tp 
prepare themselves for the long aerial 
voyage they are about to undertake, 
we pretend not to determine with cer- 
tainty, there is nothing more won- 
derful in this, than in the fact, which 
is notorious, that they by exercise, 
regularly and assiduously fit them- 
selves for this continuous effort, to 
bear themselves through the air. to 
the distance of perhaps a thousand 
miles or leagues; large flocks are 
seen every day rising from the river 
and taking a high position, flying 
out of sight and apparently moving 
in a circuit to a considerable distance, 
again returning at or near the same 
place, during the last two or three 
weeks of their stay.* 

The Wild Goose is yet more 
wary and vigilant to keep out of 
harm's way than the swan. He too 
is sharp sighted, but depends much 
on his sense of smell for protection ; 
this is so well known to the hunts- 
man, that he never attempts, however 



ing himself however of a peculiar! he may be concealed from this bird, 
propensity (of which we shall pre- to approach it from the direction of 
sently speak more particularly) pre- the wmd, since he would assuredly 



vailing with them and some of the 
other water fowl, often toll them with- 
in reach of their fire : the swan re- 
main here the Vvrhole winter, only 
shifting their ground in severe Avea- 
ther from the frozen to the open part 
of the river, and dropping dovvn into 
the salts where it is rarely frozen. 
They get into good condition soon 
after their arrival in autumn, and re 
main fat until toward spring 



be scented before he could get within 
gun-shot, and left to lament his errgx^;; 
by the sudden flight of the whole 
flock. These geese toward spring; 
often alight on the land, and feed oa. 
the herbage in fields, and sometimes, 
in such numbers as to do great in- 



*Perhaps this exercise may account for 
the leanness — and perhaps to produce this 
I leanness may be a motive for the exercise. 
■\Yhen^ Ed. Gaz. 



ALEXANDRIA. 



485 



jury to the wheat fields on the bor- 
ders of the river. When so employ- 
ed they are difficult of approach, al- 
AtTiys taking a position at a distance 
fiom cover of any kind — and march- 
ing in a single and extended rank 
flanked by a vi^atch goose at each ex- 
tremity, which, while all the others 
are busily feeding and advancing 
with their heads down among the 
herbage, moves erect, keeping pace 
with his comrades, his eye and nose 
in a position so as to convey to him 
the earliest intelligence of the pre- 
sence of an enemy, though at a great 
distance ; and the moment such is 
perceived, it is conimunicated to the 
whole company by certain tones used 
for alarm, and immediately is res- 
ponded to by a halt and the lifting of 
heads, and an instant flight, or a de- 
liberate return to feeding takes place, 
according as the nature of the dan- 
ger, after the examination may be 
considered. In the progress of this 
march the centinels on the flanks are 
regularly relieved at intervals of 
some fifteen or twenty minutes, they 
falling carelessly into the feeding 
ranks, and others taking in their 
place the tour of duty on their march. 
In this arrayed state, they are attacked 
with great difficulty by the gunner ; 
his only chance of approach, is by 
means of a horse trained for the pur- 
pose — and much precaution is used 
in this petite guerre. He first, 
on perceiving the flock feeding in an 
extensive field — and on none other 
will they commit themselves — recon- 
noitres the locale, and takes cogni- 
zance of the direction of the wind — 
he then having observed the course 
of march, enters the field at a point 
so remote, as at the same time to es- 
cape close scrutiny, and place his 
game in such a relative situation to 
him, as that he has the wind, — that 
is, be the air light or strong, — it is to 
blow from them toward him, and notj 
from him toward them. Next he is I 
to estimate by the pace at which he I 



finds the flock advancing, and by that 
he is to assume, under cover of the 
horse, at about what point, each mov- 
ing in oblique lines, he will be brought 
within gun-shot of them. All this 
being settled in his mind, he com- 
mences his movement, first having 
taken ofT the saddle and tied up the 
bridle, so as to show as little as pos- 
sible of it, he then, with his gun in 
one hand, and the other on the bridle, 
places himself on the side of the 
horse opposite to the game, his legs 
placed behind the forelegs of the 
horse, and his body so bent as to be 
concealed by the shoulder and neclf 
of the horse : in this constrained at- 
titude, he urges his faithful coadjutor 
slowly in the direction fixed on, al- 
lowing him every now and then to 
slop and regale himself on the young 
wheat or the herbage over w^hich he 
is making his way. The geese, ac- 
customed to find the domestic ani- 
mals, and none more common than 
the horse, pasturing on the fields they 
frequent — see in his approach no 
cause of alarm — and if due precau- 
tion has been taken to guard againsl 
the snuffing of the taint of man^ 
which there is no question that na^. 
ture has taught him readily to distin-. 
guish, he arrives in due time Avithin 
the deadly reach, and manoevering a 
while to get a raking fire, presently 
deals out destruction on the thus cii- 
cumvented troop. But to attain the 
object, great patience and endurance 
are necessary. Hours are consumed 
in taking and keeping the position 
with the requisite accuracy, as we 
have been assured by our informant, 
who has been an expf^rienced sports- 
man in these regions, and often him- 
self gone through the ordeal of wet 
feet, benumbed hands, bare head, and 
this crooked position of the body for 
several hours, on a stretch, w^atching 
under the neck of the horse, with 
snatched glance, the bearing of the 
centinels, and on the slightest indica- 
tion of suspicion, setting the horse to 



486 



DISTRICT OF COLUiMBIA. 



feed, with his own limbs and body so 
disposed behind him as not be ex- 
posed to the line of vision from the 
other quarter until suspicion was 
lulled again. 

"Ducks. — Of all the duck tribe, 
the cani-ass hack, as well on account 
of their vast numbers, as their supe- 
rior value, are to be placed in the 
first class. They breed, as is sup- 
posed, on the borders of the northern 
lakes or of Hudson bay, thej^ come 
to us periodically, as has been before 
said, from the north, and what is re- 
markable, have never before been 
known to visit, unless rarely and in 
small numbers, any other than the 
waters of the Chesapeake — and of 
these, of late years, they have con- 
fined themselves entirely to the Po- 
tomac and the Susquehannah. For- 
merly they frequented also James 
river, but for the last thirty or forty 
years have deserted that river alto- 
gether ; they were called shcUdrakv 
there — as they were in those days in 
the Potomac the white, duck — on the 
Susquehannab, the ca?irass boxk ; but 
latter'y thename of canvass back has 
been given to them on both these last 
named rivers, where they are now 
only known. It is well ascertained 



and that from that time to'the present, 
the canvass back duck ceased to make 
his annual visit to that river: and it 
is added, tTiat about the same time the 
carp-fish ceased to frequent it, and 
indeed it is affirmed, that this fish is 
only found in the rivers, to which 
that duck resorts. If this really be 
so, it must be, that both are enticed 
by the same kind of food, or that the 
grass in question, by some other 
quality, suits the purposes of the carp 
fish. 

"The canvass back feeds in from 6 
to 1 feet water ; he is an e.xpert 
diver, and with great strength and 
agility, seizing it probably near the 
bottom, eradicates the grass, brings it 
up root and branch to the surface, 
where he bites off the root, (which is 
bulbous, white and about four tenths 
of an inch across, and six tenths long,) 
and eating that only, leaves the long 
herbaceous part to float on the water. 

"Very fre?quently there are found 
feeding among these fowl, the Bald 
Fall Duck ; he has not the power 
of diving entirely under water in 
search of his food, and here he is 
employed in watching the rising of 
the canvass back , and in snatching 
the grass from his grasp, much to 



that they feed on the bulbous root of his annoyance, — and though the bald 
a grass which grows on the flats in face is the smaller duck, as he is 
the fresh water of these rivers, be- sprightl}' and active, he often suc- 



cause it is always found in their 
craws, and which has very much the 



ceeds to get hold before the other has 
done more, than put his bill above 



color and the flavor of garden celery;! water, and to obtain and make ofl' 
it is to this food, that is attributed, and| with the prize, (precious part, the 



we believe correctly, the peculiarly 
delicious taste of their flesh. 

"It is said that during a remark- 
ably hard winter some forty odd years 
ago, the wind having prevailed a 
long time from the northwest, and 
blown so much of the water from the 
flats of James river, that it froze to 



root and all,) but generally he con- 
tents himself with swimming about 
among the industrious divers, and 
devouring their leavings, the grassy 
part of the plant. The favorite pas- 
ture ground of the canvass back on 
the Potomac is between Crane and 
Mason's Islands, the first about twen- 
ty-five miles below Washington, and 
the latter within the District of Co- 



the bottom, inclosing the long tops of 
this grass so closely in the ice, that 
when it broke up and was floated off;lumbia opposite to George Town.* 
in the spring, it tore the whole of itl^^^en this part of the river is con- 
up by the roots and took it away — Ideated, usually in January, they are driv- 



ALEXANDRIA. 



487 



"Of late years, because of the in-j 
crease of hunters constantly in the 
pursuit, and the quantity of craft fly- 
ing, they have been in a great mea- 
sure driven from tiie upper beds of 
their favorite food, and are seldom, 
but in small numbers, seen above the 
bridire, across the river at Washino- 
ton. But a little lower down, and 
where the river becomes wider, when 
at rest at night, or when they have 
retired from feeding during the day, 
they ride in the midst of it in such 
numbers as literally to cov-er acres 
of water. When they resort to the 
flats for feeding, they separate in a 
degree, but yet are found thus em- 
ployed in flocks of many hundreds, 
and sometimes thousands. Until 
within the last five and twenty years, 
this game was obtained in no other 
way than by shots from the land, and 
it was therefore, an object of great 
interest and sport with the amateur- 
gun-ners. 

"The positions opposite to their 
feeding places were known, slight 
blinds of brush wood were thrown up 
on the edges of the banks, previous to 
their arrival in the fall, of four or five 
feet height, under cover of which, in 
a stooping posture, the sportsman can 
reach the desired point undiscovered 
by the sight, (for it happens that this 
bird is not like some of its tribe, as 
the malard and others, armed with a 
strong sense of smell) and here post- 
ed, if one of skill and patience in his 
vocation, he waits often no inconsid- 
erable time for the proper occasion to 
giv^e the greater eflfect to his fire. 
Sometimes when the tide makes high- 
er, deepening the water near the bank, 
and so inducing the ducks to run 
closer in, but most generally forego- 
ing fair opportunities during every 

en by the ice lower down, to the brackisli 
or salt water, and return on it.s dissolution 
towards spring, biu never in such condi- 
tion, or with such j^ood llavor; nor do 
they recover these after such an absence, 
during that season. 



few minutes, to fire on detached par- 
ties, snuiU in number, until a good 
portion of the flock has placed itself 
well huddled together, in the desired 
position. The habit of these ducl^s, 
which, as we have said, are most ex- 
pert divers, is when feeding in flocks 
near the bank, to take their course 
across the shoal from the outer to the 
inner part of it, beginning on the out- 
er part where the water is deepest, 
and progressing inwards with great 
bustle and activity, each darting down 
headforemost, with much velocity, and 
presently returning to the surface 
with the sought morsel in its bill, des- 
patching this, and repeating inces- 
santly the operation presenting a con- 
stant and rapid succession of comers 
up and goers down, without order, 
and amidst a great splashing of wa- 
ter, until they find they have ap- 
proached the inmost edge of the 
growth of grass, when suddenly they 
all rise in succession to the surface, 
those first up waiting a morrtent for 
the last to come, and now the whole 
flock being above water, and exhibit- 
ing three times the number it before 
seemed, with one accord, they fall in- 
to close order, wheel and swim slow- 
ly along, in a direction parallel for 
some two or three hundred feet with 
the bank, as well to recover from 
their fatigue, as to place the column 
over ground, not yet foraged ; and this 
done, facing outward, they re-com- 
mence their work of diving and feed- 
ing, now moving toward the outer 
edge of the shoal. 

" It is at this critical moment at the 
proper stage of the wheeling motion, 
that the sportsman in ambush, seeks 
to open on his unsuspecting victims 
the deadly fire; it is when with ele- 
vated heads and the greater part of 
the body out of the water, the ducks 
huddled in contact, have presented 
their sides to him, that he directs his 
sight and draws his trigger on that 
section of the flock, which, from its, 
position, best suits his object. In 



488 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA, 



sportsman's phrase, "when he has 
got the eye, can ruffle the feather and 
String," in other words, when the 
game is so near that their eyes can 
be seen, and in such position that the 
shot may not glance off on the fea- 
thers, and that they can be raked by 
the fire; the proper observation of 
which rules often gives it more than 
double the effect. To gain and com- 
bine all theseadvantages, only belongs 
to the practised and patient sportsman : 
he must be acquainted with the habits 
of his game, and altho' they pass of- 
ten in review very near him, in the 
foraging process just described, he 
must lie close, and often endure cold 
and wet for a coiisiderable time, and 
to make his shot tell well, resist temp- 
tation, until m its A^arioas manoeuvres, 
the flock puts itself most in his pow- 
er; frequently during the ambuscade, 
the wary flock takes alarm from some 
"movement of the real, or a supposed 
enemy, and fly suddenly off"; at other 
times, in a sense of danger, not so 
confirmed, it scatters and swims di- 
rectly from the land with great ra- 
pidity, each duck as it emerges, drop- 
ping the fruit of its dive, and taking 
in haste the same track; an inexpe- 
rienced gunner believing his chance 
gone of doing better fires on them in 
this state, before they get out of his 
i-each, but does little execution. Not 
so w ith the old sportsman ; he reserves 
his fire, well knowing that if he re- 
mains covered, or when other cause 
of apprehension, as of some person 
Accidentally appearing, shall cease or 
have passed away, the flock will, af- 
ter reconnoitering at a distance for a 
while, return again to its feeding 
ground, and particularly will this last, 
so determine, because he is fully 
aware of the fact, that this swimming 
retreat is always performed under the 
signal of sa,uv<- qui 'pent, and the dou- 
ble precaution of each, separating as 
widely as possible from the other, and 
sinking itself so far under the water 
that nothing but the head and part of, 
the neck remains as a mark. 



"There is a singular device prac- 
tised too, by sportsmen, for shooting 
the canvass back, as well as the other 
ducks, denominated drift fowl, in the 
Potomac, — the red head and black 
head shovder, and also the swan, 
from the banks; it is called tolling 
them in, and there can be no question 
of the fact, that each of this descrip- 
tion of water fowl are often brought 
within gun shot, by an artifice prac- 
tised on some propensity with them, 
not easilj' accounted for. It is some- 
times done by means of a dog, train- 
ed for the purpose, and sometimes by 
moving or shaking in a particular 
way, the branch of a tree with the 
dried leaves yet attached, a colored 
handkerchief or some similar thing, 
the color, however, in each case, be- 
ing of a reddish or yellowish hue; 
and an instance of a hunter yet liv- 
ing on the banks of the Potomac, 
who has a thick head of red hair, that 
he wears in a large old fashioned 
queue, with a long square brush at 
the end, often using this brush, shak- 
en by one hand when lying in wait, 
with the rest of his body concealed, 
as a decoy to toll in ducks, has been 
given us from good authority. 

"The Swan is only tolled by a 
dog, that is taught to play about with- 
in easy call of his master, at the edge 
of the water; the several species of 
ducks just enumerated, are to be toll- 
ed by the dog in that way, or by the 
other device. In all cases the hunter 
contrives to place himself behind a 
log or some other cover well conceal- 
ed, before he begins his operations, 
taking care to observe that the direc- 
tion of the wind is not unfavorable to 
him, and that the flock he means to 
toll is'near enough to distinguish such 
objects on the shore, and under no 
alarm at the time. By what motive 
these fowls are influenced, we have 
not heard satisfactorily explained ; but 
ertain it is, they are very commonly 
brought in from some hundreds of 
yards distance, in this way, to within 



ALEXANDRIA. 



489 



point blanket shot. It is said, and 
perhaps truly, in the case of the dog, 
that they fancy themselves in pursuit 
of some animal, as the fox, or mink, 
by which their young are annoyed at 
their breeding places. 

"Of late years, however, these 
sports enjoyed by the inhabitants of 
the banks of the river, have been ve- 
ry much interrupted, by the practice 
of shooting from skiffs, with long 
■guns of large calibre, by that class of 
gunners, who hunt for the market. 
They use a very light small skiff 
made quite sharp at the bows, capable 
of taking only one man and his enor- 
mous gun, so low that when thus la 



duck have sensibly decreased since 
the practice was introduced, and we 
can but join in the opinion, that this 
terrible destruction of them at their 
resting- places in the night, where not 
only are great numbers killed, but ve- 
ry many are wounded and escape in 
the dark, for the time, only to linger 
and die, must ultimately drive off the 
whole tribe to some plai'e of greater 
safety, if not offering such grateful 
food. The other drift fowl of this 
river have much the habits of, and are 
hunted somewhat as are the canvass 
back. There is nothing remarkable 
either in the habits or the manner of 
taking the rest of the Avild fowl, ws 



den, the gun-wales are within two jhave enumerated and not particularly 
inches of the surface, and painted of {described. 



the color of the water: in the bottom 
of this skiff, scarcely wider than his 
body, the man lays prostrate, his face 
downwards, his gun fixed on a dou- 
ble swivel, to the bow-piece, muzzle 
out, and the breach being close by his 
head, so fixed with an arm over each 
side, and grasping a short paddle in 
either hand, when within a certain 
distance of the flock, he bears down 
on it so slowly and regularly, and 
keeping the little bark in such direc- 



SoRA. — There is yet, however, 
one other description of water fowl 
frequenting the Pomac, although, of 
smaller size, less than the snipe, yet 
affording so great a delicacy for the 
table, and so much amusement to the 
sportsman, that we must not omit to 
notice it. It is the Sora of Virginia, 
and Rail of Pennsylvania, sometimes 
called improperly, Ortolan in the mid= 
die states. It frequents the tide wa- 
ter marshes of the fresh water of this 



tion, that from its very small eleva- river, and is here only for a few weaks, 
tion above the level of the water, and arriving early in September, and de- 
the sharpness of the bow always pre- parting toward the latter end of Oc- 
sented toward the flock, he often sue- 'tober. It is common also we learn, 
ceeds in the day, and always in the ion the Delaware, and the Sehuylkill. 
night time, to arrive within good dis-lthe James river and most of the rivers 
tarrcc for such a piece as he uses, iin the middle and southern states, 
which is very long, and so heavy as The natural history of this bird ha 



not to be fired by the usual method of 
briti^inff to the shoulder, and with 



bafiled the eflorLsof the most diligent 
and acute enquiries on such subjects. 



four 'or'' five times the charge oi a iit is not known which are its breeding 
com-mon fowling piece, he commits 'places, whence it comes to, or whith- 
great slaughter. Most of this mis- [er it goes from us. It is only certain, 
chief, if mischief it be, is done m the ithat it appears suddenly in great num- 
night, among the flocks in the/^id- ibers, comes lean, soon gets very fat 
die oi the wide part of the river, Ion the seed of the wild oat, which 
where they retire for rest, and are jconstitutes lis principal and favorita 
found ridinir asleep with their heads I food in these waters,— and disappears, 
under their wmg;.; and mischief wejon the apprcacih of the first smart 
can but think it, since it b believed jfro.?t. all at once, a3 it would oesm in 
that the numb*?rs of the canvass bark ja single night,— no person can give 
62 '' 



49Q 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA, 



evidence of the manner or direction, 
of its arrival or departure; but it is 
notorious among sportsmen and oth- 
ers, that they may be found in great 
numbers and affording fine sport, on 
a given day in the fall, when if a night 
of smart frost intervenes, on the next 
day, not one is to be found, nor ano- 
ther seen until the return of their 
time of visit on the next year. And 
what makes this the more remarkable 
is, that they seem badly provided as a 
bird of passage, having short wings 
and flying heavily, and not being in 
the habit, while here, of congregat- 
ing; some conjecture that they plunge 
into the mud, and lie in a torpid state 
all the rest of the year, b>Jt this, like 
the story of the immersion of the 
swallow, is scarcely credible. Wil- 
son supposes them to be migratory — 
that they have, when it is necessary 
to exert it, greater power on the wing 
than is attributed to them generally, 
and that they come here from a more 
northern, and pass on to a more south- 
ern climate which seems to be most 
probable. 

" They afford fine sport to the gan- 
ner without the necessity of much fa- 
tigue or address, they are generally 
shot on the wing, and as they fly 
slowly they are easily brought down 
with a light charge of small shot. 
The time of the tide must be observ- 
ed — the gunner in a light skiff, push- 
ed with a pole, by a man in the stern, 
goes into the marsh on the rise of the 
tide, an hour or two before high wa 
ter, and has to leave it the same time 
on the ebb, not only that he may have 
a sufficient depth to float his skiff 
over the flats and fallen grass, but 
because the birds dont rise as freely! 
on alarm, when by the absence of 
water they can escape on ioot, by run- 
ning over the mud, and hiding them- 
selves among the grass, at which they 
are very adroit. At a favorable tide, 
and when the birds are plenty, there 
is busy work for 3 or 4 hours for the 
gunner; he may fire almost as fast as 



he can load, always, however, at sin- 
gle birds: for although hundreds are 
often all round him, and springing 
at every moment ivithin gun shot, 
even two are rarely seen together. 
In the marshes on the upper part of 
the Eastern Branch, and within a 
few miles of Washington, this game 
is very plenty, and affords much 
amusement to the sportsmen every 
fall. Lower down the Potomac they 
have another mode of taking the So- 
ra, with less cost, and more expedi- 
tiously, much practised on the gentle- 
men's estates in that quarter. It is 
done in the night by means of a light. 
A canoe is preprtred before hand, by 
placing across the gunwales amid- 
ships, a kw boards constituting a plat- 
form, of about 3 feet square; this is 
covered with clay, to the thickness of 
two or three inches, and when dry, 
affords a good h^a rih; a quantity of 
light wood, so called, (the heart of the 
yellow pine, which after lying fallen 
in the woods until the sap part is de- 
cayed, and having concentrated its 
resinous matter, burns fiercely) is 
split into small pieces, and thrown 
into the bottom or the canoe near the 
hearth, and a boy posted by it to keep 
up the fire: two or three men now 
embark, provided, one with a stout 
common pole to push the canoe, and 
the others with light poles 12 or 15' 
feet long, having a flat board 5 or 6 
inches broad, and a foot or so long, 
nailed on at one end; and enter the 
marshes frequented by these birds on 
a dark night, at a time of the tide, 
when pretty well covered with water, 
the Sora are found perched upon the 
long stalks of the reeds and wild oats, 
to get out of its way. The blazing 
fire throws such a glare of light all- 
around for twenty or thirty paces, that 
it not only discovers quite plainly the 
birds to those at the fire, but it so de- 
coys or stupifies them as to detain 
them in their positions, peeping and 
peering at the light, until they are 
approached within striking distance 



GEORGETOWN. 



491 



with the flattened poies, and knocked 
on the head one by one; thirty or for- 
ty dozen are sometimes killed in this 



way by the crew of one canoe on a 
single tide." 



GEORGETOWN. 

Georgetown is a Port of Entry,been recently completed. Its princi 



and Post Town in Washington coun- 
ty. It was originally laid out under 
an act of the Colonial Assembly of 
Maryland, passed in May 15th, 1751. 
In 1789 the town was incorporated, 
and is under the government of a 
mayor, recorder, alderman and com- 
mon council. This town is situated 
on the left bank of the Potomac river, 
at the head of tide water and the na- 
tural navigation of that river, and is 
separated by Rock creek from Wash- 
ington, with which there is a ready 
communication at present by means 
of two bridges crossing the creek at 
two principal streets of Geoi'getown, 
and an additional means of commu- 
nication by a pier, of the width of 
160 feet, lately constructed across the 
mouth of Rock creek. 

The town is remarkably salubrious, 
and it has at all times escaped those 
summer epidemics that have prevail- 
ed some years in the adjacent coun- 
try. It is handsomely situated on a 
succession of hills, rising gradually 
from the river and creek, to which 
all its streets incline. So that every 
considerable rain thoroughly cleanses 
them of all impurity. For some 
years after the late war, a very active 
business was transacted in the town, 
and the improvements during this 
time were very numerous and orna- 



pal export trade consists of tobacco, 
flour, leather, soap, candles, beer, <fec. 

The annual inspection of tobacco, 
has recently amounted to 5,000 hogs- 
heads ; the inspection of flour to more 
than 80,000 barrels. There is a con- 
siderable foreign trade with Europe, 
South America and the West Indies. 

Intenral Improvements. 

The Chesapeake and Ohio Canal 
passes through the heart of the town, 
at the level of thirty-seven feet above 
the river, and is let into an extensive 
basin, formed from Rock creek by 
four detached locks. Being the high- 
est seaport on the Potomac, and the 
first reached by the canal in its de- 
scent, its situation is peculiarly favor- 
able for enjoying the trade which is 
wafted on that great high way, and 
which establishes a ready communi- 
cation from a rich back country, to 
the basin at Rock creek. 

"The Locks are almost all of 8 feet 
lift — are built of cut stone, and laid 
in the best hydraulic cement. 

•'The canal from the head of Lit- 
tle Falls, 5 miles above Georgetown, 
receives- water from the Potomac ri- 
ver; and the river being at that point, 
raised b}'' a dam across it, of 4 feet in 
height above the surface. This level 
of water is brought down to Congress 
street in the heart of Georgetown, 



mental. 'Subsequently, and until wiih-l and is there 37 feet above low-water 
in the last two or three years, its trade' of the Potomac; on the east side of 



has declined, and impiovement been 
in a great measure suspended; with- 
in this period, however, there has 
been a very considerable progressive 
amendnient in trade, and numerou.s 
valuable buildings, and other improve 



Congress street there is a Lock, and 
at the tail of the Lock on Jeflerson 
street, a bridge ; below Jefferson street 
a second Lock and bridge, to pass 
Washington street; below Washing- 
ton street, a third Lock and bridge at 



meats are now in progre.'3s, or have the foot of it, to pass Green street ^ 



402 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



and below Green street a fourth Lock, 
to let down into the basin of Rock 
creek. 

"The plan of the Basin at Rock 
creek is one of the most important of 
the details of the whole project, and 
nature seems to have placed Rock 
creek at a point calculated by this im- 
provement to be invaluable. 

"By the project of forming a mole 
or dam across the mouth of Rock 
creek, the outer part of which is 



have accommodated the trade with so. 
great facility and economy, any where 
in the neighborhoods ol Georgetown 
or Washington. 

"The route of the Canal passes 
very direct (almost straight) through 
Georgetown ; and the cutting is gene- 
rally only what is wanted. It is true 
that between Potomac street and Hig h 
street, there is a short space of 300 
feet, where it was found necessary to 
cut 30 feet, in one place 32 feet. All 



along the side of the channel of the ithis earth is deposited to form the 
Potomac, where there is from 9 to 12 {mole or pier; this is the deepest cut- 
feet water at low tide. This mole isjting or excavation on any part ol the 



1200 feet long, and 160 feet wide, 
jnade of stone on both sides, and fill- 
ed between with earth taken from the 
Canal, as it passes through George- 
town. 

" This rnole is intended to raise the 
water of Rock creek 3 feet above 
common high tide in the Potomac, 
and retain it uniformly at this height. 
About the middle of the mole there 
is a Lock to let down boats into the 
river, and this Lock has a lift of only 
3 feet at high tide, and 6 feet at low 
tide. This Lock with the form pre- 
viously named, brings the boats into 
}he Potomac river. 



Canal. 

"After leaving the streets in George- 
town, the Canal runs along the steep 
bank of the Potomac for a mile and a 
half, the greater part verv steep, iorm- 
ed of rock, •which required blasting 
with powder; above this last distance 
the country assumes a little more 
gentle declivity and better shape for 
a Canal, and it passes along sloping- 
ground, till it intersects the old Poto- 
mac Canal, and following that to near 
the western end, it then leaves it and 
rises to a higher level by a Lock of 
8 feet lift, and soon after, another of 



the same lift, and then it passes on for 
"By the side of the Lock which jone and a half miles, and then a Lock, 
lets into the Potomac, there is a x^-uste I of 8 feet lift: then one and a half 
weir 200 feet long, over which the 
surplus w^ater of Rock creek passes 



miles and then another Lock; then 
half a mile, and then commences a 
"This mole or dam flows the water j succession of 6 Locks, at intervals or 
of Rock creek back about three quar- 1 spaces of 100 yards betw'een each; 
ters of a mile, and makes a beautiful jthen commences a long level of moi'e 
basin from 100 to 250 feet wide, which than 4 miles without a Lock. This 
has a depth of 6 feet water in nearly I brings you to the Great Falls, where 
the whole distance, and gives on the | are 6 Locks more, at intervals or spa- 
Washington and Georgetown sides of ices of 100 to 200 yards between. We 
Rock creek, the greatest po.ssib]e ad-ithen reach the "head of the Great 
vantages for wharvesand ware-houses, Falls, and have ascended 20 Locks, 
which can be imagined. It appears or 160 feet from Rock creek. This 
that nature never formed a more con- part of the Canal about the Great 
venient and useful spot, to end a great Falls presents features in the forma- 
and important v\'ork of this kind, than tion of the country, which are very 
Rock creek, with these improvements [striking and bold; and nature has 
upon it. And we do not see anyplace 'done a good deal by forming a ravine 
where a useful and capacious basuiiof nearly a mile in length, with huge 
eould have been formed, which would i^ges of large blocks of granite or 



GEORGETOWN. 



4^ 



gneiss, forming its sides, and where the 
water will be from 1 to 30 feet deep, <fe 
1 00 to 200 feet wide. Along this we 
pass, and a towing path is formed by 
levelling some, and raising other 
parts so as to make the path regular 
on the side of it; at another part of 
the Canal there are vertical walls to 
sustain the Canal 50 feet high among 
the rocks. 

. "To those who have but a limited 
knowledgeof the duties of a Civil En- 
gineer, it has been objected that the 
plan of cutting so deep through 
Georgetown was wrong. It is how- 
ever, believed, that the plan presents 
many advantages. 1st. It enables the 
Canal to pass througli Georgetown 
Ayith less inconvenience to private pro- 
perty than any other route, and a great 
deal cheaper. 2d. It furnishes an 
leasj'- pass waj^^ by bridges over the 
Canal, nearly or quite level with the 
streets, thereby not incommoding <.he 
buildings along the streets, nor mak 
ing the ascent of the streets (which 
are now considerable) any steeper. 
3d. It furnished the earth to make a 
mole or pier of great width, and ca- 
pable of receiving warehouses in the 
centre of it, where boats can discharge 
at one end of the warehouse, and 
ships take in at the other. This fur- 
nislies a plan for transhipment of pro- 
perty with the least possible expense. 
4th. By making this basin at Rock 
creek, it presents shores where boats 
can lay in safety for one and a half 
miles on both its sides. It also finds 
a place in its upper part, where boats 
wot in immediate use, can lay without 
paying much wharfage or expense, 
and be perfectly safe." 

Manuf.\cturing F.\cilities, 
Public Institutions, &.c. — The 
vicinity of the town naturally ofTers 
peculiar advantages tor extensive 
manufactories. The riv^er falling 
near 40 feet in 4"miles. The Chesa- 



peake and Ohio Canal extending 
over this space at an elevation of 37 
feet above tide water, and of a width 
of to to 80 feet, with a depth of 7 ft. 
may supply very numerous manufac- 
turing establishments with water, 
without obstruction to the navigation. 
The pitbliciastitiif ions and buildings 
consist of the Georgetown Col- 
LKGE ; a society of Nuns incorpo- 
rated by Congress, under the name of 
" T/ir Sisters of the Visi/a/io?i,^^ who 
conduct a very flourishing female 
academy. There are 8 houses of 
public worship, 2 Roman Catholic, 
2 Episcopalian, 1 Presbyterian, 2 
Methodist and 1 African, — also 2 
banks incorporated by Congress, the 
Farmers' and Mechanics' Bank of 
Georgetown, and Union Bank, with 
a joint capital of $9,64,130. It 
contains also a considerable number 
[of dry good and grocery stores, 1 ex? 
tensive brewery with several manu- 
factories, and every mechanical pur- 
suit necessary to a town of its magni- 
tude, and immediately above the tow!) 
is an extensive cannon foundry. 

The academy under the direction 
of " The Sisters of Vintation,^'' has 
been established 33 years, and aver- 
ages generally from 70 to 80 young 
ladies as boarders, and from 30 to 40 
young ladies as day scholars. With- 
in the nunnery enclosure, but detach- 
ed from the academy and approached 
from a different street, there are up- 
ward of 400 young girls taught gra- 
tuitously, about 200 attending daily. 

At the Lancaster School, there are 
annually taught about 100 boys, and 
j70 girls. There are 3 other acadcr 
jmies for young ladies, in which are 
jtaught all the branches of polite and 
■fashionable education, and 3 acade- 
[mies for young men, with several 
other respectable schools all conduct- 
ed by competent teachers. 



494 



DISTRICT UF COLUMBIA, 



Assessed t^aluation of real and personal property. 



Real, 
Peisotm^l, 



Total, 
Population at different periods. 



82,400,000 
280,311 

$2,080,311 





Whites, 


Free Colored, 


Slaves, 


Total. 


Jn 1810, 


3,235, 


551, 


1.162, 


4,948 


" 1820, 


4.940, 


894, 


1,526, 


7,360 


" 1830, 


G,057, 


1,209, 


1,175, 


8,441 



Annalostan Island. — Opposite 
to Georgetown is Mason'' s Island pro- 
perly called Annalostan Island 
It is the seat of Gen. John Mason. 
It has a highly cultivated surface of 
.about 70 acres, — the natural soil, 
light and sandy. A causway on the 
Virginia side, and a horse boat ferry 
from Georgetown, ficilitates commu- 
nication with this beautiful spot from 
the shores. The highest ground 
above the level of the river is elevated 
about 50 feet, and upon this eminence 
ihe dwelling is situated. The usual 
tides rise about 3 feet. In digging 
for water, it is procured at the depth 
of 20 or 30 feet from the surface. Aga- 
iized wood has been discovered in 
well digging. The house which is 
approached through a fine avenue of 
trees, is e.vten.sive, with a number of 
convenient !)uildings attached: from it 
the public buildings in Washington 
are seen to advantage. On the N. 
side of the Island an alluvial mea- 
dow is rapidly forming. The S. side 
is substantially walled, and dotted 
with neat white cottages for servants 
buildings. 

Warden justly remarks, that "the 
view from this spot is delightful. It 
enribraces the picturesque banks of the 
Potomac a portion of the city, and a 
noble expanse of water. Numerous 
vessels ply backwards and forw:u'd.s 
to animate the scene. 

Georgktown College. — This 
College which is pleasantly .situated 



on the northern bank of the Potomac, 
commands a full view of Georgetown, 
Washington, the Potomac, and a great 
part of the District. Its situation is 
peculiarly healthy. It is under the 
direction of the incorporated Catholic 
clergy of Maryland, and is the oldest 
Catholic seminary in the United 
States: it was first incorporated in 
1799: and in 1815, it received an ex- 
tension of its privileges from Con- 
gress, and was authorized to confer 
degrees. The college library con- 
tains 12,000 volumes. The academic 
or college year commences on the 
15th of September, and ends on the 
31st of .Tuly; and coinmencemtnt is 
near the last of July. The number of 
students is usually about 140 or 150; 
a considerable part of them being day 
scholars. The number of graduates 
is not great. The number graduated 
at the commencement of July 25, 1833 
was 7. — There are 19 professors and 
tutors, of whom 3 are professors of 
theology. 

The course of ordinary studies is 
completed in 7 years, at the end of 
which, if the student has made sulii- 
cieut progress, he may receive the de- 
gree of Bachelor of Arts. When a 
scholar presents himself to be receiv- 
d into the College, he is examined 
by the prefect of studies, and placed 
in that class, for which his prior ac- 
rjuirements may have fitted him, lie 
then passes on in regular succession 
to the final clas.^ of Lo.fric and Moral 



GEORGETOWN. 



495 



Philosophy. If he remain longer, 
and study the higher branches of 
Mathematics and Natural Philoso- 
phy, he may take the degree of Mas- 
ter of Arts. 

Rules, REGULATroKs and Course 
OF Instruction. — 1st. In the lowest 
school or class of Rudiments, the 
scholars study the English and 
French Grammars, Caligraphy, A- 
rithmetic, &c. — and at the conclusion 
of this year (for each class, unless 
some student by their particular ap- 
plication and talents, should merit 
promotion, occupies one year) they 
are supposed to be able to read and 
write English correctly. 

2d. During the next year, (third 
class of Humanities,) the scholars 
continue to study the English and 
French Grammars, and begin to com- 
pose in those languages — Arithmetic 
is- continued and towards the end of 
the year they commence the Latin 
Grammar. 

3d. In the second class of Humani- 
ties, they continue English and 
French composition, (these studies are 
continued' till the end of Rhetoric.) 
and Arithmetic : they begm Latin ex- 
ercises and read some easy Latin au- 
thors — as Nepos, Caesar, &c. During 
this year a course of Geography is 
studied, and Greek is begun. 

4th. In the first class of Humani- 
ties, they read portions of Sallust, Ci- 
cero's minor works, and some of 
Ovid's Elegies, Prosody — and com- 
mence History. They study portions 
of the Greek Scripture, Xenophon, 
and Lucian's dialogues. Algebra is 
begun. 

5th. Ill Poetry, Cicero's minor 
works, Virgil, Horace, Livy and Ho- 
mer, are read. History is continued 
and a treatise of Mythology learned. 
Mathematics continued. 

6th. In Rcthoric — The scholars 
study Rhetoric, Cicero's Orations, 
Homer, Virgil, Horace, History and 
Mathematics. 

7th. This year a course of Logic 



and Moral Philosophy is studied — 
Mai hematics continued. 

During tlie whole course, great at- 
tention is paid to Composition, par- 
ticularly English, 'i'hcre will always 
be a class of Book-keeping for the 
convenience of those who wish to 
learn it. The Italian, Spanish and 
German languages will be also taught 
if required. Music, Drawing, Dan- 
cing, &c. will form additional char- 
ges. 

The College possesses a select Li- 
brary of about 12,000 volumes, the 
use of which is granted to the se- 
nior students without any additional 
charge. 

There are two examinations in the 
year. The minor one in February 
or March, and the other immediately 
before the commencement, which will- 
always be a day of public exercises, 
towards the end of July. 

No student is admitted, who cannot 
read and has not a good moral cha- 
racter. 

As the members of the College pro- 
fess the Catholic Religion, the exer- 
cises of Religious worship are Cath- 
olic, but members of other Religious 
denominations are received, of whom 
it is only required, that they respect- 
fully assist at the public dutie.'s of re- 
ligion with their companions. Were 
not this enforced, no proper order,- 
such as should be found in large lite- 
rary institutions, could exist in tha 
College. 

No student will be permitted to^ 
leave the College on visits of any 
length oftencr than once a year, viz :• 
at the great vacation. If his parents 
live in the District, he will be allowed 
to visit them once a month, but nOt 
oflener — and he must then always re- 
turn to the College before night. 

Terms. — Every student shall pay 
on entering the College, ten dollars. 
He shall bring a mattrass, a pillow, 
two pillow cases, two pair of sheets, 
four blankets and a counterpane, or 
pay 86 per annum for the use of bed 



4% DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA, WASHINC4T0N CITY. 



and bedding. He must also bring 
with him one suit of clothes, as a uni- 
form — which is in winter, a blue cloth 
coat and pantaloons with a black vel- 
vet waistcoat; in summer, white pan- 
taloons with a black silk waistcoat 
are used. 

He must likewise bring with him 
two suits for daily wear, for which 
no particular color is prescribed; six 
shirts, six pair of stockings, six pock- 
et handkerchiefs, three pair of shoes, 
a hat and a cloak or great coat, also 
a silver spoon. These articles if not 
brought by the student will be furnish- 
ed by the College and included in the 
first bill. 

The pension for board, washing, 
mending and mending materials — 
use of books, (philosophical and math- 
ematical excepted,) pens, ink and 
writing paper, slates and pencils is 
$150. Medical aid and medicine, 
tinless parents choose to run the risk 
of a Doctor's bill in case of sickness, 
$3 per annum. All chargest must 
be paid half yearly in advance. 

For the convenience of parents, 
particularly those at a distance, the 
College will undertake to supply the 
students with clothing. The annual 
expense cannot be specified, as it de- 
pends upon the age and wearing of' 
the student: all*that can be said, is| 
the strictest economy and simplicity i 
wjll be observed. If piirents wish | 
the College to supply their children i 
with clothes, a deposit is required byj 
the College equivalent to the probable 



expense^ of clothing for six months. 

With regard to pocket money, it. is 
desired that all the students should 
be placed on an equality, and that it 
should not exceed 12^ cents per 
week; and whatever is allowed must 
be deposited m the hands of the di- 
I rectors of the College. Half-board- 
ers are received on the usual terms, 
'viz. $5 entrance, and $G5 for board 
!pcr annum. 

j Day scholars, $5 for fuel and ser- 
j vants, as no charge is made for tuition. 
j Convent. — The Convent of the 
'Sisters of Visitation, is a plain, sub- 
stantial, but gloomy-looking, monas- 
tic institution,- which must recall, 
lamidst its solitudes, to the recollection: 
jof the contemplative mind, the touch- 
ing story of Abelard and Eloisa.— 
IThe solemnity of the scene is in strict 
'keeping with the abject of the edifice. 

The visiter is admitted into the 
spcakin^T room, as it is called, which 
is separated from the sanctum sancto- 
ruvi, by substantial wooden bars, re- 
sembling the grates of a prison. The 
Sisters are clad in sable garments, 
with deep black hoods, and white 
veils descending to the waist.' The 
Nuns are from various States of iho 
Union, and generally number about 
50. The process of initiation is the 
same as the other nunneries, the no- 
vitiate being two years, the first fof 
the white veil, and the second for;the 
black, after which, there can be no 
retreat. 



WASHINGTON CITY. 



Washington Cirt, the seat of 
the General Government of the U. 
S. of America, and capital of the Dis- 
trict of Columbia, is situated on the 
left or Maryland side of the Potomac, 
near the head of tide water, and by the 
river and Chesapeake bay, 29U ms. 
from the Atlantic. It is 38 n)s, S. 
W. from Baltimore, 136 from Phila- 
delphia, 225 from New York, 132 



jfrom Boston, 595 from Augiuta, 
Maine, 546 from Detroit, Michigan, 
1,068 from Little Rock, Arkansas, 
856 from St. Louis, 1,203 from New 
Orleans, 662 from Savannah, Georgia, 
and 544 from Charleston, S. C. The 
I'apitol stands in lat. 38° 52' 45"; long. 
W, from the ob.servatory at Green- 
wich z^'-" 55' 30", and is located at 
the junction of the rivers Potomac 



WASHINGTON CITY. 



497 



and Eastern branch, extending nearly 
4 ms. up each, and including a tract 
of territory, exceeded in point of con- 
venience, salubrity and beauty by 
hone in America. For although the 
land in general appears level, yet by 
gentle and gradual swellings, a varie- 
ty of elegant prospects are produced, 
and sufficient descent formed for con- 
veying off the water occasioned by 
rain. Within the limits of the city 
are a great number of excellent 
springs, — water of the best quality 
may readily be had, and the never 
failing streams that run through that 
territory, are also collected for the use 
of the city. The waters of Reedy 
branch and of Tiber creek, may be 
conveyed to the President's house. 
The source of Tiber creek is elevated 
236 ft. above the level of its tide wa- 
ter. The perpendicular height of the 
ground on which the Capitol stands 
is 78 ft. above the level of the tide in 
Tiber creek, — the vvaters of Tiber 
creek may therefore be conveyed to 
the Capitol, and after watering that 
part of the city may be destined to 
other useful purposes. The Eastern 
branch is one ot the safest and most 
commodious harbors in America, and 
is sufficiently deep for the largest 
Ships, for about 4 ms. above its mouth, 
while the channel lies close along the 
bank adjoining the city, and affords a 
large and convenient harbor. The 
Potomac although only navigable for 
small craft for a considerable distance 
from its banks, next to the city, (ex- 
cepting about half a mile above the 
junction of the river,) will, neverthe- 
less afford a capacious summer har- 
bor, as an immense number of Ship.s 
may ride in the great channel oppo- 
site and below the city. The situa- 
tion of this metropolis, is upon the 
great line of communication, about 
equidistant from the northern and 
"outhern extremities of the Union, 
and nearly so from the Atlantic and 
Pittsburg; upon the best navigation, 
and in the raidr,t of a commercial ter 
63 



ritory, probably the richest, and com* 
manding the most extensive iiiUrnal 
resources of any in America, to re- 
commend it as an eligible place for 
the permanent Seat of the General 
Government; and it has grcxn up 
with an extraordinary degree of ra- 
pidity. But us gj-ov.th is rather to 
be attributed to the vast amount ex- 
pended in it by the Federal Govern- 
ment, and the numerous strangers 
brought thither, than to its commer- 
cial advantages, great as they are.— 
The city of Baltimore being so near 
it, and having such im.m.c-nse advan- 
tages in the greattr capital enterprise 
and skill of her merchants, in conti- 
guity to the ocean, and greater facili- 
ty of approach, in her greater age 
and established commercial character 
and intercourse, — and lastly in being 
a city of a state with a much more ex- 
tended territory, all tlie advantages of 
which that state naturally desires to 
pour into her lap. — and that identical 
territory too, being the very source 
from which the materials of com- 
merce would have to be drawn by 
Washington, — the latter can never 
hope to rival the fcrmer m her com- 
mercial prosperity. 

The city of Washington has also to 
complete with th.e tov.^n of George- 
town, Alexandria and Fredericks- 
burg, much of the commerce cf -e'hich, 
would i^o V to her if those to-svjfis did 
not exist 

The fact, however, that Washing- 
ton is not likely ever to be an over- 
grown commercial city, is not at all 
to be regretted by the statesm.an,' The 
legislation of the Uniou would riot be 
at all benefitted by the presence of a 
noisy, disorder!}"- mob. — which is al- 
most sure to exHt in a large commer- 
ial city. 

The pl..».x of this ciry appears to 
contain some im.portant improvements 
upon that of the best planned cities in 
the world, combining in a remarka- 
ble degree, convenience, reguiaritj;, 
legance-of prospect, and a free circiJP- ; 



498 



DISTRICT or COLUMBIA, 



latiort of air. The position for the 
different public edifices, and for the 
several squares, and areas of differ- 
ent shapes, as they are laid down, 
were first fixed on the most advanta- 
geous ground commanding the most 
extensive prospect, and from their sit- 
uation susceptible of such improve- 
ment -as either use or ornament might 
at any time require. The soil is 
generally sterile, mixed with pebbles 
and sand, the length of the city Irom 
S. E. to N. W. is 4^ ms. ; mean 
width 2J, containing a fraction less 
than 8^ sq. ms. The city was laid 
out under the supervision of Gene- 
ral Washington (then President 
of the United States) in 1791. The 
principal streets are called avenues, 
and named after the different states of 



the Union. These diverge from the 
Capital and President's house, and a 
direct line of communication betweeii 
these two edifices is formed by Penn- 
sylvania avenue, the principal and 
finest street of the city. The avenues 
are crossed by streets running N. 
and S. alphabetically arranged, a.nd 
others running E. and W. numericat- 
ly arranged. Many of these are 
shaded, and all of them very broad, — 
the former being from 120 to 160 feet 
in width, and the latter from, 7.Q to 
no. . -'--, 

The City is divided into sfx wardis, 
the following table gives a correct 
statement of the census, assessments, 
and valuations of each, up to Decem- 
ber 31, 1830. Agreeably to the last 
census ' ." 



WARDS. CENSUS. BUILDINGS. LOTS. PERSONAL. TOTAL. 



First 

Second 

Third 

Fourth 

Fifth 

Sixth 



3,678 
4,0.49 
5,751 
1,861 
1,357 
2,131 



657,833 
724,705 
1,105,855 
253,100 
174,410 
209,139 



760,494 
752,538 
1,132,336 
290,603 
334,986 
217,075 



153,150 

139,890 

200,420 

45,120 

24,475 

37,225 



1,571,477 

1,617,133 

2,438,611 

588,823 

533,871 

463,435 



TAX—56ctS5. 

ON $100. 
8,800 27 
9,055 94 

13,656 22 
3,297 40 
2.989 67 
2,595 23 



Total, 18,827 3,125,038 3,488,032 600,280 7,213,350 40,394 7^ 



The Number of buildines erected 
in the City in 1830 was, 178,— 86 of 
which were of brick and 92 of wood. 
The total number of buildings in 183 1 
was, 3,560, — of these there were pub- 
lic 65— dwellings, 3,233, and 262 
shops and warehouses. 

In the stores, and particularly on 
the Pennsylvania avenue, there is a 
great variety, vv-ell supplied, contain- 
ing every description of dry goods, 
groceries, hardware, china, glass, 
drugs, millinery, confectionery, fruit, 
clothing, hats, shoes, boots, books, sta- 
tionery, leather, chairs, plate, jewel- 
lery, in short, every article of neces- 
sity or ornament. 

The Mechanic Arts.— The print- 
ing business, by the agency of steam 
and hand labor, alone employs during 



the winter season about 300 hands. 
There are four daily papers exten- 
sively circulated ; also 4 weekly, cir- 
culated extensively. Book-binding, 
engraving, cabinet making, tobacco 
manufacturing, hatting, saddlery, shoe 
and boot makmg, tailoring,, coack 
making, blacksmith's work, gun- 
smiths, &c. are extensively carried 
on and employ a number of work- 
men. Not less than 8 or 9 millions 
of bricks are made annually, employ- 
ing nearly 200 hands in the warm 
weather. Bricklayers, carpenters, 
painters, glaziers, and in short, every 
mechanic connected w ith the erection 
of buildings, are extensively engaged 
in the summer season. 

The population of Washington haS 
increased rapidly, and from its being 



WASHINGTON CITY. 



499 



tlie seat of the government of the] in 1803, 4,352; in 1807, 5,652; in 
county, and its salubrious and healthy! 1810, 8,208;. in 1817, 11,299; in 
location, it must continue to augment 1 1820, 13,246; and in 1830, 18,827, 
in number. consisting of 

In 1800 its population was 3,210 ;l 



Males, 
Females, 



White Persons. 
6,581 
6,798 



Free Colored. 
1,342 
1,787 



Slaves. 
1,010 
1,309 



Total. 
8,933 
9,894 



Total, 



13,379 



3,129 



2,319 



18.827 



The PUBLIC BUILDINGS in Wash 
ington are numerous and many of 
them elegant. Among these the first 
m rank is the Capitol, — it stands on 
fi most beautiful eminence, command- 
ing a complete view of every part of 
the City, and a considerable part of 
the country around, with the Poto- 



mac, as far as Alexandria- — It is of 
the Corinthian order, and the most 
magnificent edifice in the U. States. 
It is situated near the western extremi- 
ty of the Capitol square ; it is built of 
free stone, and composed of a central 
edifice and two wings, and is of the 
following dimensions, viz - 



Length of front, , . . - 
Depth of wings, . , - . 
Eastern projection, - - ■ - 
Western do. - - - - 
Height of wings to top of balustrade. 
Central Dome, - - ■ 

Length of Representatives' Hall, 
Height of do. do. 

Length of Senate Chamber, 
Height of do. do. • 
Height of Rotunda, 
Diameter of do. . . - - 

The Representatives' Hall is 
in the second story of the south wings 
and is semicircular in form. The 
dome and galleries of the Hall, are 
supported by pillars of variegated 
marble from the banks of the Poto- 
mac. This apartment is truly mag- 
nificent. In front of the Speaker's 
chair, and over the entrance into the 
Chamber, stands an allegorical figure, 
—formed of Italian marble, repre- 
senting History in the act of re- 
cording the proceedings of the nation. 
She stands on a winged car, which 
seems to roll over a section of the 
terrestrial globe, exhibiting in basso 
relievo the signs of the zodiac. The 



reet 


inches 


350 


5 


121 


6 


65 




85 




70 




120 




96 




60 




74 




42 




96 




96 





[wheel of the car is intended as the 
face of a clock, which is to be placed 
I behind, and the front contains inbas- 
|so relievo a figure of Fame, and a 
{profile bust of Washington. Above 
I the Speaker's chair, is a colossal fi- 
Jgure of Liberty, in plaster, pointing 
!to the Hall below, and supported on 
'the right by an American Eagle — 
jand on the left by the Roman fasces, 
[which are partially enveloped in the 
'folds of a serpent. Immediately un- 
ider this figure, on the frize is carved 
in alto relievo another Eagle in the 
attitude of flying. 

I The Senate Chamber in the 
I north vving is of the same semi-iMr- 



50Q 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA, 



cular form, a screen of Ionic columns, 
Avith Capitols after those of the tem- 
ple of Minerva Polias, supports a gal- 
lery to the east, and forms a lobby be- 
low, — and a new gallery of iron pil- 
lars and railings, of a light and ele- 
gant structure, projects from the curv- 
ed walls, — the dome ceiling js enrich- 
ed with square caissons of stucco. 
The intervals between the marble pi- 
lasters in the wall are covered with 
straw-colored drapery. Columns of 
Potomac marble, support the eastern 
gallery. 

The Rotunda occupies the cen- 
tre. This is the principal entrance 
from the east Portico and west Stair, 
and leads to the legislative halls and 
library, which contains 16.000 vo- 
lumes. This room is divided in its 
circuit into pannels, "by lofty Grecian 
pilasters, which support a bold en- 
tablature, ornamented with a wreath 
of olive. — A hemispherical dome ris- 
es above, filled with large plain cais- 
sons, like those of the Pantheon at 
Rome. The pannels'of the circular 
walls are appropriated to paintings 
and basso relievos of historical sub- 
jects. This noble edifice was_ not 
quite completed when the British ar- 
my under Gen. Ross^ (who was af- 
terwards slain in batfle near Balti- 
more) in August, 1814, made a sud- 
den incursion, afler defeating the 
American troops at Bladensburg, 
gained possession of the City, setting 
fire to the Capitol, President's house, 
public ofRces, &:c. reducing the whole 
to ashes, together with the valuable 
library of Congress. The founda- 
tion of the north wing was laid in the 
presence of Gen. Washington on the 
iSth of Sept. Wd5, and finished in 
i800,~cost $480,262 57.— South 
■wing commenced in 1803, and finish- 
ed in 1808,— cost $308,808 41,— and 
the centre, on the 24th of May, 1818, 
being the anniversary of its destruc- 
tion by the British, and finished in 
1827-.cost $957,647 35 Thebuild- 
ing covers an acre and a half, or 1820 



square feet, exclusive of its enclosure 
for fuel ; and an elegant area and gla- 
cis on the west front. 

The square contains 22^ acres, em- 
bracing a circumference of three- 
fourths of a mile, and 185 feel, en- 
closed by a substantial iron railing 
with very neat gate-ways. Gravel 
walks, and beautiful borders of shruh- 
bery and flowers, forming a delights 
ful promenade for the use of th.e citi- 
zens, Opposite to the west front.is 
the botanic garden ground, a situa- 
tion well adapted for the purpose, 
which it is supposed will be placed 
under the care of the Columbian In- 
stitute. "At the west front of the 
Capitol is placed the beautiful marble 
monument (which lately stood in. the 
navy yard) erected by the American 
officers, to the memory of their breth- 
ren who fell before Tripoli in the 
year 1804. It is a small doric co- 
lumn, with emblematical embellish- 
ments, and crowned with an eagle in 
the act of .flying. Its base is sculp- 
tured in basso relievos, representing 
Tripoli, — its fortress, — the Mediter^ 
ranean and our fleet in the fore- 
ground and on each angle stands -an 
appropriate marble figure. The one 
represents Columbia directing the at- 
tention of her children to HiHory, 
who is recording the daring and in- 
trepid action of the American heroes, 
— the third represents Fame with -a 
wreath of laurel in one hand and.a; 
pen in the other: and the fourth, i^fer-. 
cury, or the God of commerce,, ^viili 
his cornucopia and raduceus. 

The President's House is twa 
stories high with a lofty basement, and 
is ISO feet long and 85 wide. Ta 
each end there is attached the neces-. 
sary offices, stables, coal and ice hous- . 
es, with a colonnade front rising lo a 
level with the main floor of the house; , 
the roofs being flat these offices afford . 
a terrace suitable for a promenade. It 
is built of white free stone. — The 
building is 170 feet in front and 8$ 
deep, and is crowned with a balus-.. 



WASHINGTON CITY. 



501 



trade; the roof is covered with cop- 
per, and the entrance from the north 
IS through a lofty portico, which is 
projected from the front, so as to leave 
room for a carriage to pass under be- 
tween the platform and outer columns. 

The ho\ise stands on an elevation 
of 44 feet above the usual high water 
of the river Potomac, in the centre of 
^ large re$ervation of ground of 20 
acres. The front entrance faces north, 
ijpon an open square, and the garden 
front to the south, possessing a de- 
lightful water prospect, together with 
a commanding view of the Capitol, 
and the most important parts of the 
City. The Virginia and Maryland 
shores of the river, and Potomac 
bridge, and of the opposite view to 
the south, is extremely beautiful and 
picturesque. It is an elegant build- 
ing and stands about one and a half 
miles from the Capitol. 

The entrance is subdivided into 
halls, sets of apartments for the ac- 
commodation of a large family, and 
for the reception and entertainment of 
numerous guests. Liberal provisions 
have been made by Congress from 
tmie to time for furnishing the build- 
ing in a style appropriate to its ele- 
gance and uses to which it is dedi- 
cated. 

There are on the same open area 
on which the President's house is lo- 
cated, four other buildings, quadran- 
gular in shape, two stories high, built 
of brick and stuccoed. Of these the 
two on the east are the Departments 
of Slate and the Treasuri/*-^those 
on the west, the Departments of War 
and the Naiiy. The General Post 
Office is on Pennsjdvania Avenue, 
and the Patent Office is kept in the 
same building. 

The City Hall is not yet comple- 
ted, but the plan is that of a noble 
structure. Its front is 200 feet, — the 

♦ The Treasury building was consumed 
by fire in the summer of 1833, and has not 
since been rebuilt, but will soon be com- 
menced. 



elevation of the north front 72 feet, — 
its Rotunda is GG feet in diameter, — 
and Courtroom 70 by 40. 

There is a Masonic Hall which is 
a handsome edifice, lately erected 
near the City Hall. 

There are also four well supplied 
market-houses, — an infirmary, — a fe- 
male orphan asylum, — a jail, — a the- 
atre, — 5 extensive hotels,-^a foundry, 
— several breweries, — a museum and 
City Library. 

There is a Penitentiary provided 
for the use of the District, which is 
under the following rules and regula- 
tions: 

Of the reception and discharge of 
convicts. 

" 1st. On the arrival of a convict, 
immediate notice shall be given to the 
Physician, who shall examine, the 
state of his health. He shall then be 
stripped of his clothes, and clothed in 
the unilorm of the Prison, as hereaf- 
ter provided ; l^eing first bathed and 
cleaned, and having his hair cut close, 
as prescribed by law. 

2d. He shall then be examined by 
the Warden and Clerk, in the pre- 
sence of as many of the keepers as 
can conveniently attend, that they may 
become acquainted with his person 
andeountenance,and his name, height, 
apparent age, alledged place of na- 
tivity, complexion, color of hair and 
eyes, and length of feet, to be accu- 
rately measured, and all visible scars 
or marks, the Court convicted in, and 
crime found guilty of, and length of 
sentence, shall be entered in a book 
provided for that purpose, with such 
other general description, as may tend 
to his or her future identification;" 
and if the convict can write, his or. 
her signature shall be written under 
the said description of the person. 

3d. All the effects on the person . 
of the convict, as well as his clothes, 
shall be taken from him, and preserv-- 
ed and taken care of, if worth .ft, by. 
the Warden, to be restored to Mm ofl.; 
his discharge. 



502 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA, 



4th. The convict shall be instruct- 
ed carefully by the officers, in the rules 
and regulations of the Prison, by 
which he is to begoA'erned ; and if in 
health, shall there be put to work, at 
such trade as he knows, if practica- 
ble; if not, or he has no trade, the 
Warden shall select such trade or em- 
ployment as seems best suited to his 
strength and capacity. 

5th. When a convict shall be dis- 
charged, by the expiration of the term 
for which he was sentenced, or by 
pardon, he shall take off the Prison 
uniform, and have the clothes brought 
by him to the Prison, restored to him ; 
or, if they are unfit, a new, cheap, 
and suitable laborer's dress, with the 
oiher property or effect?, if any, taken 
from him on his commitment. 

6th. When a prisoner is discharg- 
ed, it shall be the duty of the War- 
den, if practicable, to learn from him 
his former history, the means of mo- 
ral and religious instruction enjoyed 
by him,the early temptations to crime, 
to which he was exposed, or by which 
lie was assailed, his habits, predomi- 
nant passions, and prevailing vices, 
and in what part of the country he 
intends to fix his future residence; all 
of which shall be efttered by the 
Clerk, in a book to be kept for that 
purpose, together with his name, age, 
and time of discharge. 

7th. If the Inspectors and Warden 
have been satisfied with the industry, 
good order, and morality of his con- 
duct, they shall give him a certificate 
to that effect. 

Rations and clothing. 

1st. The ration for each man per 
day, shall be 

12 oz. of pork or 16 oz. of beef; 

10 oz. of wheat flour, not bolted; 

12 oz. of Indian meal; 

^ gill of Molasses; 
and 2 quarts of rye, 4 quarts of salt, 
4 quarts of vinegar, \\ oz. of pepper; 
and 2^ bushels of potatoes to each 100 
rations. The rations of the women 
and boys, shall be as nearly in pro-i 



portion, as possible, taking fnto^c^ii; 
sideration age, health, &-c. ;t 

2d. Salt pork and salt beef shall be 
furnished alternately, each three daysi 
and fresh beef once in each week, or 
oftener, if the Warden shall see fit 
and proper: all the articles to j^^..^^ 
good quality, and sound. '. 'Tt 

3d. The clothing for each convief 
shall be a roundabout, or over jacket, 
a vest and pantaloons, made of wool, 
for the winter, and cotton or lipeis^ 
for the summer: with stripes running 
round the body and limbs, a cap of 
the same cloth, leather shoes, and 
woollen socks, and shirts of coarse 
cotton or linen. Each convict shall 
have a mattrass, two blankets made 
of coarse woollen yarn, not less thaii_ 
1^ yards wide, and 2^ yards long, one 
coarse sheet, of the same si?e. They 
shall not be permitted to lie down, tx 
to rise up from their beds, until n6-~ 
tice given by the bell, for that put": 
pose; nor shall they be permitted tcf 
sleep in their clothes. 

4th. The hour for breakfast, frorn 
the 20th March, to the 20th of Sep- 
tember, shall be 7 o'clock, A. M. ; 
and, from the 20th September, to the 
20tli March, 8 o'clock. The hour* 
for dinner shall be 1 o'clock, P. J!|fL, 
The convicts shall be allowed forty- 
five minutes at breakfast, and one^ 
hour at dinner; at the expiration of 
which time, they shall be turned, out 
of their cells, and again put to.laboi^ 
Duties of covvicts. 

1st. Every convict shall be indus- 
trious, in the performance of any du- 
ty assigned to him, he shall labor dili- 
gently, and in silence, and obey im-. 
plicilly, the orders of the officers -C^. 
the institution. 

2. No convict shall secrete, or hide, 
or carry about his person, any instru- 
ment or thing, with intent to make his 
escape, or in any other manner en- 
deavor to make his escape. 

3d. No convict shall dispute, quar* 
rel with, or in any manner misbehavp 
to another convict, nor converse withT 



WASHINGTON CITY. 



sm 



any other prisoner, without the leave, 
or by the order of an officer; nor ab- 
sent himself from his work, nor look- 
at, or speak to visitors, nor go into 
the prison yard, without orders, nor 
go into the lodging rooms, after be- 
ing turned out in the morning, till or- 
dered, nor leave the hospital, when 
unwell, and sent there. 

4th. No convict shall drink any 
spirituous, vinous, or fermented li- 
quors, unless prescribed by the phy- 
Efician, when sicj< in the hospital, nor 
game in any form, or by any device 
whatsoever, nor chew or use tobacco. 

5th. Na convict shall write or re- 
ceive a letter, to, or from any person 
whatever, nor have intercourse with 
persons without the prison, by any 
other means. 

6tb. No convict shall hum, or in 
any other manner waste, destroy, or 
hijure, any raw materials, or manu- 
fa,ctured articles, or other public pro- 
perty, nor deface or injure the prison, 
or any of the buildings or fixtures 
connected with it 

7th. No convict shall laugh, dance, 
whistle, sing, run, jump, or do any 
thing which will tend to alarm or dis- 
turb the prison. 

8th. Convicts shall always conduct 
themselves towards the officers of the 
institution, with deference and re- 
spect: and cleanliness in their per- 
sons, dress, and bedding, is required. 

9th. When the convicts go to meals. 
or to, or from the shops, they shall 
proceed in regular order, in silence, 
marching in the lock step, accompa- 
nied by their proper officers. They 
shall eat their meals, till a common 
hall is provided, in their respective 
ceils. 

Punishments. 
-' 1st. For the violation of any of the 
foregoing rules and regulations, the 
offenders shall be punished by the 
Warden, with confinement, in a soli- 
tary cell, on a diet of bread and wa- 
ter, not exceeding twenty days, for 
each offence; but subject, hovvever, to 



be mitigated or suspended by the vi- 
siting inspector, at his next Aveekly 
vi.sitalion; or by the Board of Inspec- 
tors, at their monthly meeting; and 
to whom such cases of punishment 
shall be regularly reported, by the 
Warden, with the nature, particulars, 
and aggravation of the oflences." 

The Colitmbian College, — 
founded by the Baptists, and incorpo- 
rated by Congress in 1821, went into 
operation in 1822. It has an elevated 
and pleasant situation to the north of 
the city, one mile from the President's 
house, and two and a half miles from 
the Capitol. Its buildings consist of 
a College edifice of 4 stories, 1 17 feet 
by 46, having 48 rooms for students, 
a chapel, &-c.; another edifice of the 
same dimensions is erected, and con- 
nected with the first by a building of 
one story, SO feel by 40, designed for 
a refrectory; a philosophical hall and 
2 houses for professors. The College 
has a good philosophical apparatus 
and library of 4000 volumes. The 
only public aid which it has received 
was a grant from Congress of $25,- 
000. 

The following is the course of study. 

Studies and text-books of the Col- 
lege classes: 

Freshman Class. — Grasca Majors, 
vol. I. begun; Livy, first 5 books; 
Adams' Roman Antiquities; Cam- 
bridge Coarse of Mathematics, com- 
prising, 1. Lacroix's Arithmetic, 2. 
Euler's Algebra, 3. Legendre's Ge- 
ometry, begun; Worcester's Geogra- 
phy, Murray's Grammar; Walker's 
Rhetorical Grammar; writing trans- 
lations of select portions of the Latin 
and Greek Classics, and declamations 
weekly; revision of some of the stu- 
dies required for admission. 

Sophomore Class. — Groeca Majora, 
vol. 1. finished; Irving on Composi- 
tion; Hedge's Logic; Legendre's 
Geometry, finished; 4. Lacroix's Al- 
gebra; 5. Analytic Geometry, com- 
prising Plane and Spherical Trigo- 
nometry, and the Application of Al- 



504 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA, 



gebra to Geometry, particularly to A preparatory schobl is connected 
Conic Sections, begun; S. E. Morse's with the College, in which pupils are 
Geography; Tytler's General Histo- fitted for admission to the Freshman, 
ry, Horace, Latina Excerpta; compo- or higher classes, studies, reading, 



sition and declamation weekly 

Junior Class. — Grreca Majora, vol. 
II. begun; Blair's Lectures on Rhe- 
toric; Paley's Natural Theology; 
Analytic Geometry, finished ; 6. To- 
pography, or the Application of Ge- 
ometry to Projections, Dialling, Men- 
suration of heights and distances ; 
Navigation, Nautical Astronomy, 
Surveying, Levellmg, &c. Farrar's 
Natural Philosophy, begun; Cicero 
de Ofiiciis, de Senectute, and de Ami- 
citia ; Paley's Moral Philosophy ; 
Natural History ; Chemistry, Camp 
bell's Philosophy of Rhetoric ; de- 
clamation and composition. 

Senior Class. — Grreca Majora, Vol. 
II. finished ; Cicero de Oratore ; se- 
lect portions of Homer's Iliad ; 7. 
DifTerential and Integral Calculus ; 
Farrar's Natural Philosophy, finish- 
ed ; Stewart's Philosophy of the 
Mind; Paley's Evidences; Butler's 
Analogy; Vattel's Law of Nations; 
Constitution of the United States ; 
Kent's Conimentaries, Vol. I. decla- 
mation and composition. 

The higher Classes are admitted to 
courses of Lectures on Natural Phi 
losophy, Anatomy and Physiology, 
Chemistry, Botany Mofal and Intel- 
lectual Philosophy. 

The College year is divided into 
two sessions, of about five months 
each ; the first, from the second Wed- 
nesday of January, to the first Wed- 
nesday of June, when the summer 
vacation of tw© months occurs : the 
second, from the first Wednesday of 
August, to the third Wednesday of 
December, when the annual com- 
mencement takes place, and the win- 
ter vacation of one month begins. 

On occasions of great interest, the 
students are permitted to hear the ar- 
guments in the Supreme Court of the 
United States, and the debates in 
Congress. 



writing, English Grammar, Arithme- 
tic, and Geography. Adams' Latin 
Grammar, Historia Sacra, Csesar's 
Commentaries, — Virgil, Sallust and 
Cicero's Select Orations, Valpy's 
Greek Grammar, the Gospels, and 
Jacobs' Greek Reader. For admis- 
sion to the Freshman class, a know- 
ledge of these studies, or an eqiiiva- 
lent, is required. Geometry, Aiege- 
bra and other higher studies, are also 
pursued in this school. 

There are also connected with fhis 
establishment a medical department, 
which was organized in 1824, and a 
large and commodious building has 
been erected for the use ofthe Institu- 
tion, on 10th St. about equi-distant 
from the Capitol and the President's 
house. This building is large and 
commodious, consisting of 3 elevated 
stories, wkh a roof peculiarly con- 
structed for the admission of light in- 
to all the apartments appropriated to 
anatomical purposes. 

On the ground floor is the Lecture 
Room, Laboratory, &.c. of the Ptd^fes* 
sor of Chemistry. 

The second story contains the 
rooms, public and private, ofthe Pro- 
fessors of the Theory and Practic-e of 
Medicine and of Materia Medica, and 
of the Institutes of Medicine and Med- 
ical Jurisprudence. 

In the third js the Anatomical 
Theatre, together with rooms- occu^ 
pied by the Professors of Anatomy, 
Surgery and Ohstetrics. 

The theatre is designed fromn the 
most approved plans, and is conve- 
niently connected with the rooms sit- 
uated in the superior part of the build- 
ing, which are intended for the pur- 
pose of Practical Anatomy. In rela- 
tion to (his particular department of 
the school, care has been taken to 
provide space, light and security, to- 
ether with every other specific con- 



;.rWASHINGTON CITY- 



$0$ 



Itenience that may afford to the stu- 
dent facility in prosecuting to advan- 
tage this necessary part ol" his colle- 
giate studies. 

The Professor of Anatomy has fur- 
nished himself with all theAnatomi- 
cal preparations which are necessary 
to his course, and with a large col- 
lection of valuable drawings, by which 
the structure, of those minute parts 
which cannot be fully displayed with- 
ia the recent or proposed subject, are 
exhibited to view on a magnified 
scale. 

The Professor of Chemistry is in 
possession of an extensive apparatus, 
by the aid of which, all the important, 
experimental illustrations, belonging 
to his department, are presented to the 
class 



1818. It consists of 5 Classes, viz. 
Mathematical Science, Physical Sci- 
ence, Moral and Political Science, 
General Literature and the fine arts. 
The annual meetings are held on the 
last Saturday in each year. 

There are 3 Banks, — the Bank of 
Washington, — capital $479, 120,— 7 
The Bank of the Metropolis, — ca- 
pital $500,000, and the Patriotic 
^a/i/fc,— capital $250,000. There are . 
19 houses of public worship, 3 Cath- 
olic, 4 Episcopalian, 3 Methodist, 4 
Baptist, 1 Unitarian and I Friends', 
also 2 public free schools, and a great 
many other well conducted schools, 
where the usual branches of educatiou 
are taught, as well as the dead Lan- 
guages and Mathernatics. Schools for 
young ladies, are also established .Ja 



The ticket of each Professor is $15; various parts of the city; and there is 
and all persons who have attended | 1 orphan asylum, constituted in 1815, 



two full Courses, at this School, are 
entitled to attend succeeding Courses 
free of expense. 

The requisites for graduaticn are 
similar to those required in the most 
Fespectable institutions in the country. 
The candidate must have studied 3 
year§ under the direction of some re- 
gular physician. He must have at- 
tended each Professor two full Cour- 
ses, or he shall have attended one full 
dotirse in this School, and one in 
some other respectable medical insti- 
tution. He must have entered his 
Dame Avith the Dean as a candidate 
for graduation, and delivered to him 
sua inaugural dissertation on some 
medical subject, 30 days before the 
clcfse of the session. 

The lectures commences on the Ist 
JkifMwJay in November, and continue 
frU the last of February. The fee for 
the lectures on each branch, io $15 or 
90 far the whole Course;— the ma- 
triculating fee $5;— graduating fee 



a colonization society (the mother) in- 
stituted in 1817; G well organized 
fire com]>anies and a Masonic Lodge. 
Regular lines of steam-boats ply from 
Washington to Alexandria, Baltimore, 
Norfolk, &,c., and numerous stages run 
to other places, — among which are 8 
daily coaches to Baltimore. The 
territory now Washington was form- 
erly a part of P*rince George Co. 
Md. and was ceded to the United 
States in 1790. In 1800 it became 
the seat of government, and 1802 was 
incorporated as a city. In 1812 it 
was remodelled, and fu:tally chartered 
in 1815. The . government is com- 
posed of a Mayor, 12 Aldermen, and 
a corruTion Council of 18 memiers ; 
these are elected by the citizens, the 
latter for 1, and the Mayor and. Al- 
dermen for 2 years. - _; .: - ^ '-^ -:;.- 
The Navy YARf> in this eity^was 
established and organized by the act 
of Congress, approved 27th March, 
1804. It containb within its limits 



about 28 acres; and io enclosed by 

The"6W«.;«iift»//iNi!t/!tt,f!f,"forthe|a high brick wall, with an entrance 

promotion of the Arts and Sciences, from the north, through an arched 

was formed at Washington in 1816, gateway, ,on each side of which at« 

and incorporated by Congie:-H in' accommodation;; for the mauneofficer 

64 



506 



DISTRICT OP COLUxMBIA, 



and guard, attached to the Yard. The\saw gates, each capable of receiving 

buildings for the officers are commo- and working any number of saws 



dious, — and appropriate, quarters for 
the Commandant, Master Com- 
mandant, Lieutenant, Sailing Master, 
Surgeon and Boatswain : for store 
houses, shops, &c. and a Navj^ Store, 
with a sail loft in tlie second story ; 
iron store, with a rigging loft in the 
second story; Commandant's, and 
other oflices ; labratory for the pre- 
paration ol ordinance fixtures and 



sufficient for converting a log to any 
dimensions by one passage through 
the gate. Two hammers for forging 
anchors, &c. 2 large hydraulic bel- 
lows, 2 circular saws, 1 turning and 
boring lathe, which when required, 
can be converted into a machine for 
boring steam engine cylinders; 9 
turning lathes, 5 grind stones, 4 drill 
lathes for boring sheaves, &c. with 



stores, in the second story of which is other machinery, required to facilitate 



a beautiful and well arranged armory 
An armorer's shop for repairing 
•small arms ; an iron foundry ; a brass 
and composition foundry ; a chain ca- 
ble, and caboose shop ; an anchor 
shop, smithery and plumber's shop ; a 
block maker's shop, a saw mill, and 
rooms for machinery work, «fec. 2 tim- 
ber sheds on arched columns, one 
vidth a joiner's shop, and the other 
with a mould loft in the second story; 
2 ship houses over foundations, and 
ways for buildings and launching 
ships of any size. All the buildmgs 
are large and of substantial construc- 
tion, andafTord every convenience for 
building and equipping vessels for 
sea. There is in the Yard a fresh 
water deck for seasoning timber, &c. 

For the purposes of the Navy there 
are some valuable manufactories es- 
tablished in the Yard ; and for it gen- 
erally, are made, anchors, chain ca- 
bles, cabooses, blocks, ordnance fix- 
tures, and stores of every kind; brass 
and composition castings, &c. To 
facilitate the operations hi the manu- 
facture of these articles, much labor- 
saving machinery has been erected; 
the principal of which is a steam en- 
gine, computed of 14 horse power, by 
which there is kept in continual mo- 
tion 489 feet of shafts, with their or- 
dinary wheels, drums, &c. to the 
weight of 40 tons, 8 cwt., 1 qr. lbs. 

By power derived from the opera- 
tion of the above shafts, a requisite 



the operations of the several depart- 
ments in the adjoining buildings. 

Tiiere is also, situated in the S. E. 
corner of the Yard, a machine for 
proving rope and chain cables; the 
mechanical force of which is so pow- 
erful, that two men can part a cable 
suitable for a ship of the largest size. 
Considerable as a strain must be, suf- 
ficient to part a 24 inch cable, (or a 
strain of 100 tons,) such is the accura- 
cy of the operation of the index, that 
two ounces thrown into the scale sus- 
pended from the end of the lever, will 
sensibly affect the index, thereby af- 
ording an opportunity of calculating 
the strainon the cable with the great- 
est precision. 

About a mile above the Yard is a 
large pow-der magazine, and a ware- 
house for the storage of salt petre, &c. 

There is generally employed in the 
Yard for the manufactories, and as 
laborers, about 200 men ; when ships 
are building or repairing, the number 
is proportionably increased by the 
employment of carpenters, caulkers, 
boat-builders, mast makers, gun car- 
riage makers, sail makers, coopers, 
&c. The Yard is beautifully situat- 
ed on the right bank of the Eastern 
branch ; the channel of which affords 
an easy navigation for small frigates, 
sloops of war, &c. 

The United States' Arsenal 
is situated at the southern extremity 
of the city, on the point oi land form- 



power and motion is conveyed to two ed by the junction of the Potomac and 



WASHINGTON CITY. 



507 



Anacostia rivers. This position, be- 
ing at the head of ship navigation — 
at the seat of government — and cen- 
tral in a national point of view, was 
Selected in 1804, as a favorable site 
for aw Arsenal, intended for the man- 
xjfacture and depository of Military 
Stores. For these purposes it was 
exclusively devoted until ISl'^; when 
immediately after the declaration of 
war with England, strong batteries 
were erected on the sides, approacha- 
ble by water, both, to protect the Arse- 
nal and guard the jiver channels lead- 
ing to the Navy Yard and other parts 
of the city. From this time, the place 
was known by the name Fort Wash- 
ton; notwithstanding its entire want 
of defence on the land side ; which 
made it necessary, after the British 
army had entered Washington, for 
the American troops to vacate it. — 
This was done during the night of 



Captain Frazer, acting Adjutant Geu-* 
eral of the British army. 

In the autumn of 1814, the work 
shops were rebuilt ; and the manufac- 
ture and preparation of army supplies 
went on as before. In 1816 a large 
store house and officers' quarters 
were erected, forming the north front 
of the fort. In 1828-24, the garrison 
was withdrawn — the ramparts re- 
moved, and permanent buildings ex- 
clusively for Arsenal purposes erected 
on the same ground, making, with 
those built in 1816, the four sides of 
a rectangular parallelogram. Ac- 
cording to present arrangements, 
there are two buildings for the depo- 
site of muskets, rifles, pistols, swords 
and other small arms; 3 for the dwel- 
lings of officers and artificers; and 4 
large work shops, besides other 
smaller buildings. One of the shops 
contains a steam engine which drives 
the 24th of August, 1814, after burn- j various machines, made use of in re- 
ing the work shops and removing asipairing small arms, and in manufac- 
much property as time would permit, ituriug artillery carriages. Of the 
The next morning a detachment of I latter, a considerable number are an- 
."SOO British troops marched to the [nually made at the place — mostly for 
fort, and commenced the destruction 'the use of the militia. 
of wnatever had been left in a ser- 1 The Arsenal contains many thou- 
viceable state. Among other things, |sand arms, consisting of all the usual 
were a number of 18 pounder guns, (varieties. Tlaey are neatly arranged 
'left by the garrison in the haste of in open frames, and being kept in per- 
] departure, mounted in battery and un- feet order, present an imposing ap- 
* spiked — these they attempted to des- pearance. Forty thousand soldiers 
troy by discharging one against the can be fully armed and equipped at 
trunnion of another ; but, most unfor- an hour's notice. On the plain in 
tunately for the operators, the first front of the Arsenal, are 855 pieces of 
piece discharged happened to be 'ordnance, including cannon, howitzers 
pointed in the direction of a well near |and mortars of various calibres. — 
"by, into which, some of the wadding j Among them are seen trophies of the 
of the gun was thrown by the dis- lateand revolutionary wars.capturedat 
charge ; this communicated fire to a j Bennington, Saratoga, Yorktown and 
large quantity of powder, previously iBridgewater. 

placed there by the garrison to pre' There i^ also a cannon, relick of 
vent its falling into the hands of the 
enemy, and a tremendous explosion 
was the immediate consequence ; by 
which one half of the 500 m«n, who 
entered the place 30 minutes before, 
with all the pride'and hilarity result- 
ing from victory, were killed and 



the revolutionary contest, made in 
Virginia of hammered iron. It bears 
the name of " Q,ueen of France," 
which was marked upon it at that pe- 
riod. 

The geological formation of the 

Arsenal grounds, does not differ from 

wounded. Among the killed, was a other parts of the city. From the 



msi 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



surface there is an average of 10 feet 
in depth of ferruginous clay, resting 
on alternate horizontal strata of sand 
and gravel, in which are found de- 
tached parcels of bog iron ore. 

The following statement of expen- 
ditures, (by the United States) in 



building the public edifices at Washt 
ington, which were destroyed by fire 
in 1814. The building of jails for 
Alexandria county and Washington 
county, — the purchase of a C. H. for 
Washington county, — the erection of 
a United States' Penitentiary, and a. 



Washington, to January 1st, 1830, j variety of other items, not chargable 
includes the entire expenses of re- 1 to the sales of city lots. 

Prior to 1816. 

Pui'chase of ground for public purposes, - 38,697.92 

Purchase of stone quarries, - - - 30,225.31 

Surveying and marking boundaries, - - 67,469.76 

Opening and improving streets, ... 33,646.82 

Bridges over Rock, Tiber and James' Creeks, 15,041.99 

Building wharfs, 9,130.17 

Building sheds for workmen, - - - 4,681.23 

Digging canal Irom James to Tiber creek, - 5,670.61 

Interest on loans, conimissions, &c. - - 165,533.93 

Salaries, &c. . - . = . . 119,906.65 



Capitol, &.C. 

Prior to burning in August, 1814, ■■ - 788,071.28 

From 1814 to January i, 1830, - - 1,704,250.27 

Temporary Committee rooms, - - - 2,771.96 

Enclosing the square, . , - - 71,602.57 

Alterations in the Capitol, - - - 5,507.84 

Graduating and improving the square, - 20,716.99 

Allegorical clock, , . . . . 2,000.00 

Furnishing committee rooms in centre building, 3,579.30 

President's House, &c. 

Prior to burning in August, 1814, - - 333,207.04 

From 1814 to January 1, 1830, - - 300,072.37 

Alterations, ...... - 1.945.63 

Covering the roof, - . - . . 5,405.32 

Erecting walls and gates, - - - 5,887.73 

Graduating and improving the square, - 19,009.51 



490,004.3^ 



2,596,500.21 



Offices. 

Prior to burning in August, 1814, - - 93,013.82 

From 1814 to January, 1830, - - - 268,850.68 

Contingencies between 1814 and 1820, - J5,673.Q2 

Engine Houses, Engines, &c. - - 12,917.37 

Paved footways, - - . . . 9,064.04 

Purchase of part of the City Hall, for Court, &c. 1 0,000.00 

Purchase of square 249, for water, - - 1 ,246.94 

Jail of Washington County, - - - 4,746.2Q 

Jail of Alexandria County, - - . 11,186.03 

Penitentiary of the District, - - - 70,127.23 

• Total, 



— 665,527.60 



361,8a5:3>Q 



140,96^83- 
$4,254,858.53 



WASHINGTON CITY. 



509 



Washington County is bounded 
N. W. and N. by Montgomery Co. 
Md., — N. E. by Prince George's Co. 
Md., — S. E. by the Eastern branch of 
Potoniac, and S. W. by the main 
stream of Potoniac. In form it ap- 
proaclu'S a parallelogram, 8 ms. in 
length from S. E. to N. W. ; mean 
breadth 5j ms.; area 42 sq. ms. or 
42-lOOths of the whole district, ex- 
tending in lat. from 38° 51', to 38° 
58' nearly, and in long, from 0° 6' 6" 
E. to 0o"03' W. the Capital, The 
surface of this Co. is very finely di- 
versified by hill and dale. Rock 
creek enters near the northern angle, 



States and foreign powers; and cor- 
responds officially with the public 
iVlinisters of the United States at Fo- 
reign Courts, and with the Ministers 
of Foreign Powers resident in the 
United States. — He performs, also 
the main duties of what, in other Go- 
vernments, is called the Home De- 
partment—Salary, $6,000. 

The office of Secretary of the 
Treasury was created by act of the 
2d of September, 1789. He superin- 
tends all the fiscal concerns of the 
Government, and, upon his own re? 
sponsibilitv, recommends to Congress 
measures for improving the condition 



and n^eanderi ng in a general direc- of the revenue. He holds his office 



at the will ot the President; is, by 
usage, a member of the Cabinet; and, 
ex-officio, one of the Commissioners 
of the Sinking Fund. — Salary, $6,^ 
000. 

Accounts of the government are fi- 
nally settled at the Treasury Depart- 
ment: for which purpose it is divided 
into the office of the Secretary, (who 
superintends the whole, but who is 
not therefore, absolute, with respect to 
the power of adjusting claims or of 
paying money;) into two Comptrol- 
lers, five Auditors, a Register, and a 
Treasurer. 

The" Firsi Comptroller examines 
all accounts settled by the First and 
Fifth Auditors, and certifies the bal- 
ances arising thereon to the Register, 
countersigns all warrants drawn by 
the Seceretary of the Treasury, if 
warranted bylaw; reports to the Se- 
cretary the official forms to be used 
in the different offices for collecting 
the public revenue; and the manner 
and form of keeping and stating the 
accounts of the several persons em- 
ployed therein. He superintends the 
preservation of the public accounts 
subject to his revision, and provides 
for the regular payment of all mo- 
neys which may be collected. — Sala- 
and, by usage, a member of the Ca-;ry, $3,500. 

binet. He conducts the negotiation,! The Seco7id Comptroller cxamiuos 
of ^11 treaties between the United! all accounts settled by the Second, 



tion from N. to S., enters Potomac 
between the city of Washington and 
Georgetown. The slope of the whole 
county is indeed from N. to S., and 
the descent very rapid. The soil 
generally thin, though some favora- 
ble exceptions exist. Exclusive of 
W- C. and Georgetown, it contained 
in 1830 a population of 2,994. The 
entire population of the two cities 
and the county, was in 1830, 30,262. 
The Civil List of the United 
States, though relating rather to the 
whole Union, than particularly to the 
District of Columbia, is a matter of 
such general interest, that we will in-! 
sert it here: 

CIVIL LIST, 
Shelving the nature and extent of the 
duties of each officer of the Gene- 
ral Government of the U. States, 
atid their salaries — toith the mim- 
ber of clerks employed in each de- 
partment, and the aggregate 
amount of their salaries. 
The Department of State was cre- 
dited by the act of 15th September, 
1798. Previously to that period, by 
act of 27th July, 1789, it was denomi- 
nated the Department of Foreign Af- 
fairs. The Secrtary, is ex-officio, a 
Commissioner of the Sinking Fund, 



510 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA, 



Third, and Fourth Auditors, certifies I his decision upon them.— Salar^, 
the balances to the Secretary of the $3,000 



Department in which the expenditure 
has been incurred; countersigns all 
requisitions drawn by the Secretaries 
of the War and Navy Departments, 
warranted by law; reports to the Se- 
cretaries the official forms to be used 
in the different offices for distributing 
the public money in those Depart- 
ments, and the manner and form of 
keeping and stating the accounts of 
the persons employed therein. It is 
also his duty to superintend the pre- 
servation of the public accounts sub- 
ject to his revision. — Salary, $3,000. 

The Fiist Auditor receives all ac- 
counts accruing in the Treasury De- 
partment, and in relation to the reve- 
nue and the civil list; and, after exa- 
mination certifies the balance, and 
transmitstheaccounts, with the vouch- 
ers and certificates, to the First Comp- 
troller, for his decision thereon.— Sal- 
ary, $3,000. 

The Seco7id Auditor receives and 
settles all accounts for the pay and 
clothing of the Army, subsistence of 
pfHcers, bounties, and premiums, Me- 
dical and Hospital Department, and 
National Armories, armingand equip- 
ping the militia, Ordnance Depart- 
7i>ent, Indian Department, Purchas- 
ing Department, the contingent ex- 
penses of the War Department, and 
all store accounts growing out of the 
foregoing. He examines the accounts, 
certifies the balances, and transmits 
the accounts with the vouchers and 
certificates, to the Second Comptrol- 
ler, for his decision upon them. — Sal- 
ary, $3,000. 

The Third Auditor receives all ac- 
counts relative to the subsistence of 
the Army, the Quartermaster's De 
partment, and generally all ai^counts 
of the War Department, other than 
those referred to the Second Auditor. 
He examines the accounts, certifies 
the balances, and transmits the ac 
counts, with the vouchers and certifi- 
cates to the Second Comptroller for 



The Fourth Auditor receives all 
accounts accruing in the Navy De- 
partment, or relative to it. He exa- 
mines the accounts, certifies the bal- 
ances, and transmits the accounts with 
the vouchers and certificate, to the 
Second Comptroller, for his decisioii 
upon them. — Salary, $3,000. 

The Fifth Auditor receives all acr 
counts accruing in, or relative to, the 
Department of State, the Cxeneral Post 
Office, and those arising out of Indian 
Trade, examines them, certifies the 
balances, and transmits the accounts 
with the vouchers and certificate, to 
the First Comptroller for his decision 
upon them. To the Fifth Auditor, 
also, has been assigned the duties of 
Commissioner of the Revenue, which 
are considerable, embracing a super- 
intendence of the light house estab- 
lishment, and a correspondence with, 
and superintendence over, the collec- 
tors of the direct tax and internal re- 
venue.— Salary, $3,000. ■ 

To this office has been assigned by 
the President also, the duty of agent 
of the Treasury, under the act of 15th 
May, 1820, for conducting all suits at 
law, in which the United States ax^ 
concerned. 

The Treasurer receives and keeps 
the money of the United States, and 
disburses the same upon warrants 
drawn by the Secretary of the Trea- 
sury, countersigned by the proper 
Comptroller and Auditor, and record- 
ed by the Register.— Salary, $3,000. 

The Register of the Treasury 
keeps all accounts of the receipts and 
expenditures of the public rnol'iey, 
and of all debts due to or from the 
United States; he keeps the District 
Tonnage Accounts of the United 
States; he receives from the Comp- 
trollers the accounts which have been 
finally adjusted, and, with their vouch- 
ers and certificates, preserves them ; 
he records all warrants for the receipt 
or payment of moneys at the Treasn- 



WASHINGTON CITY. 



11 



ry, certifies the same thereon, atidicd in the discharjje of his duties by 
transmits to the Secretary o(" the! two Assistants. He has the sole ap- 
Treasury copies of the certificates ol] poiiilnient of all Postmasters through 



balances of accounts adjusted. By 
an act of the 10th February, 1820, it 
is made the duty of the Register of 
the Treasury, to prepare statistical 
accounts of the commerce of the Unit- 
ed States, to be laid before Congress. 
—Salary, $3,000. 

The War Depart i/kc III was created 
by act of 7th August, 1789. The 
Secre-tary of War, at first, had the su- 
perintendence of Naval Affairs. On 



out the United States; the making of 
all contracts for carrying the mails; 
and, in short, the control, according 
to law, for every thing relating to the 
institution. Since the commencement 
of President Jackson's administra- 
tion, he is a member of the cabinet. — 
Salary, $6,000. 

Board of Cummissioners for Ike 
Naci/. — This Board was established 
by act of 7th of February, 1815. It 



the 30th of April, 1798, however, aicon.sists of three Captains of the Na- 
separation took place, and a Navyj vy, in rank not below that of a Post 
Department was established. The Captain. The Board is by law, at- 
Secretary of VVar superintends every tached to the office of the Secretary 
branch, of the military department ;| of the Navy, and under his superin- 



and is, by usage, a member of th 
cabinet. He holds his office at the 
will of the President. Attached to 
the War Department, and under the 
immediate direction of the Secretary, 
are an Engineer Office, an Ordnance 



tende'.!ce; discharges all the ministe- 
rial duties of that office relative ta 
the procurement of naval stores and 
materials, and the construction, arma- 
ment, equipment and employment oi 
vessels of war, as well as other mat- 



Office, an Office for the Commissary ters connected with the Naval Estab- 
General of Sub.sistence, a Paymas-jlishment of the United States." 
ter General's Office, a Surgeon Gene-l The number of Clerks employed 
ral's Office, a Bounty Land Office,' in the State Department, including 



and a Pension Bureau. All these 
oflSces, together with the Head-Quar- 
ters of the Commanding General, 
(Major General Macomb,) and the 
Adjutant General's and Quartermas- 
ter General's Offices, are located at 
Washington.— Sa ar^-, $6,000. 
^. The office of Secretary of the Na- 
vy was created by act of the 30th of 
April, 1798. He issues all orders to 
the Navy of the United States, and 
superintends the concerns of the Na 



those in the patent office, with three 
messengers, are 20 — whose joint sala- 
ries amount to, $22,(MX>. 

In the Treasury Department there 
are employed ten clerks with one 
messenger. — Their joint salaries are 
$13,750. 

In the First Comptroller's Office 
there are employed fifteen clerks with* 
one messenger — whose joint salaries 
amount to $18,450. 

In the Second Comptroller's there 

are employed eight clerks, -with one 

salaries a- 



val Establishment generally. A 

Board of Navy Commissioners wasj messenger — their joint 

instituted by act of 7th February,! mount to $10,300. 

1815, to aid him in the discharge of In the First Auditor's Office there 



his duties. The Secretary of the 
Navy is, by usage, a member of the 
cabinet, and holds his office at the will 
of the President— Salary, $6,000. 



are employed eleven clerks, with one 
messenger — whose salaries amount 
to $13,000. 

In the Second Auditor's Office there 



General Post OJir.e. — This De- are employed fourteen clerks — whose 
partment is under the superintendence! joint salaries amount to $16,350. 
of a Post Master General, who is aid-' In the Third Auditoj's Office there 



513 



ADDENDA TO THE GAZETTEER OF 



are employed sixteen clerks, with one 
messenger — whose joint salaries a- 
mount to $20,600. 

In the Fourth Auditor's Office there 
are employed fifteen clerks — whose 
joint salaries amount to $17,050. 

In the Fifth Auditor's Office there 
are employed twelve clerks — whose 
joint salaries amount to $14,400. 

In the Treasurer's Office there are 
employed five clerks — whose joint 
salaries amount to $6,050. 

In the Register's Office there are 
employed twenty clerks, with two 
messengers, whose joint salaries a- 
mount to $23,500. 

Commissioner General of the Land 
Office, with a salary $3,000.— In this 
office there are employed eighteen 
clerks, with one messenger — their 
joint salaries being $20,150. 

In the War Department, there are 
employed fifteen clerks, with one 
messenger whose joint salaries are 
$19,850. 

In the Adjutant General's Office 
are employed two clerks — their joint 
Salaries being $2,950. 

In the Paymaster General's Office 
there are employed three clerks and 
one messenger — their joint salaries 
being $4,600. 



In the Ordnance Department there 
are employed three clerks — whose 
salaries amount to $2,950. 

In the Surgeon General's Office, 
there are employed one clerk with a 
salary of $1,150. 

In the Quartermaster General's 
Office there are employed two clerks 
— their joint salaries being $2,150. 

In the Navy Department there are 
employed seven clerks, whose salaries 
amount to $9,400. 

There are three Navy Commis- 
sioners, whose joint salaries amount 
to $10,500. The Secretary's salary 
is $2,000. In this office are employ- 
ed six clerks — their joint salaries 
amounting to $6,750 — also a Drafts- 
man, whose salary is $1,000, and a 
Messenger at $700. 

There are two Navy Constructors, 
whose salaries amount to $5,300, and 
a Naval Storekeeper— at $1,700 per 
annum. 

Besides the General Postmaster 
there arc two Assistant Postmaster 
Generals, whose salaries amount to 
$5,000— and in the General Post Of- 
ifice there are employed forty-four 
iclerks and one messenger — whose 
Isalaries amount to 40,200. 



Addenda to the Gazetteer of Virginia and District of Columbia. 

CONGRESSIONAL DISTRICTS OF VA. 

By an act of Assembly, 1833, the counties and towns of this state were 

divided into 21 Congressional Districts, in the manner following, to wit: 

District 1st — Contains the counties of Norfolk, Princess Anne, Nanse- 

mond, borough of Norfolk, Elizabeth City, and Ise of 

Wight. 

" 2d — Is composed of Sussex, Southampton, Surry, Prince 

George, Greensville and the town of Petersburg. 
K 3d — Is composed of Powhatan, Amelia, Chesterfield, Goochland 

and Nottoway. 
« 4th — Is composed of Brunswick, Lunenburg, Mecklenburg and 

Dinwiddie. 
5th— Is composed of Prince Edward, Charlotte, Buckmgham 
and Cumberland. 
" 6th— Is composed of Campbell, Halifax, and Pittsylvania. 

7th— Is composed of Franklin, Bedford, Patrick and Henry. 



VIRCUNIA AND DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 513 

District 8lh — Is composed of York, Mathews, James City. Gloucester, 
Warwick, Accomac, Northampton and the City of Wil- 
liamsburg-. 
a 9t|i — Is composed of Essex, Caroline, King and Glufeen, King 

William and Middlesex. 
" loth — Is composed of Westmoreland, Richmond, Lancaster, Nor- 
thumberland, King George, Stafford and Prince William. 
11th — Is composed of Henrico, Charles City, Hanover, City of 
Ivichmond and New Kent. 
" 12th — Is composed of Albemarle, Nelson, Fluvanna, Louisa and 
Amherst. 
13th — Is composed of Spottsylvania, Culpeper, Rappahannock, 

Madison and Orange. 
1.1th — Is composed of Loudoun, Fauquier and Fairfax. 
I5tli — [s composed of Morgan, Jefferson, Berkley, Hampshire and 
Frederick, 
lijih — Is composed of Rockingham, Shenandoah, Page, Hard}"-, Pen- 
dleton and Bath, 
llth — Is composed of Rockbridge, Augusta, Alleghany, Botetourt, 
Montgomery and Floyd. 
- ». i3tli — Is composed of Wythe, Washington, Grayson, Scott, Lee, 
Smyth, Tazewell and Russell. 
19th— Is composed of Fayette, Nicholas, Greenbrier, Monroe, Giles, 
Logan, Kanawha and Cabell. 
.. 20th — Is composed of Harrison, Lewis, Wood, Mason, Jackson, 
Randolph and Pocahontas. 
2 hit— Is composed of Monongalia, Preston, Tyler, Ohio and 
Brooke. 



ELECTORAL. 13ISTRICTS. 

By act of Assembly, 1833, this state was divided into twenty-three Elec- 
toral Districts — to provide for the appointment of Electors to choose a Pre- 
sident and Vice-President of the United States, and are as follows, viz: 
District 1st— Norfolk, Princess Anne, Nansemond, the borough of Nor- 
folk, Elizabeth City and the Isle of Wight, shall form one 
district. 
2d— The counties of Sussex, Southampton, Surry, Prince George, 
Greensville, and the town of Petersburg, shall form another 

district. ij --N 11 J 

oJ— The founties of Powhatan, Amelia, Chesterfield, Gooctiland 

and Nottoway, shall form another district. 
4th— Th« counties of Brunswick, Lunenburg, Mecklenburg and 

Dinwiddle, shall form another district. 
5th— The counties of Prince Edward, Charlotte, Buckingham, 

Cumberland and Fluvanna, shall form another district 
Gth— The counties of Halifax, Campbell and Bedford, shall form 

another district. j r» » • i 

7th— The conntiei of Pittsylvania, Franklin, Henry and Patrick, 

shall form another district. 

65 



514 ADDENDA TO THE GAZETTEER. 

District 8th — The counties of York, Mathews, James City, Gloucester, 

Warwick, Accomack and Northampton, shall form another 

district. 
" 9th — The counties of King & Queen, King William, Essex, Ca- 
roline and Middlesex, shall form another district. 
" loth — The counties of Westmoreland, Richmond, Lancaster, Nor- 
thumberland, King George, Stafford and Prince AVilliam, 

shall form another district. 
" 1 Ith — The counties of Henrico, Charles City, Hanover, New Kent, 

and the City of Richmond, shall form another district. 
12th — The comities of Albemarle, Nelson, Louisa and Amherst, 

shall form another district. 
" 13th — T'he counties of Spottsylvania, Culpeper, Rappahannock, 

Madison and Orange, shall form another district. 
" 14th — The counties of Fauquier, Loudoun and Fairfax, shall form 

another district. 
" 15th — The counties of Jefferson, Berkley, Morgan and Hampshire 

shall form another district. 
" 16th— The counties of Frederick, Shenandoah and Page, shall form 

another district. 
" 17th — The counties of Hardy, Preston, Randolph, Pendleton and 

Rockingham, shall form another district. 
" 18th — The counties of Augusta, Rockbridge, Bath and Alleghany, 

shall form another district. 
" 19th — The coitnties of Greenbrier, Nicholas, Pocahontas, Fayette 

and Monroe, shall form another district. 
" 20th — The counties of Botetourt, Giles, Montgomery, Grayson, 

Floyd and Wythe, shall form another district. 
" 21st — The counties of Washington, Tazewell, Russell, Scott, Lee 

and Smyth, shall form another district. 
" 22d — The counties of Kanawha, Mason, Cabell, Logan, Lewis, 

Harrison and Jackson, shall form another district. 
" 23.d — The counties of Brooke, Ohio, Tyler, Monongalia and Wood, 

shall form another district. 

2. Be it further enacted, That the elections for president and vice-presi- 
dent of the United States shall be held and conducted in all respects, accord- 
ing to the provisions of the said act to provide for the appointment of elec- 
tors to choose a president and vice-president of the United States, passed at 
the last session of the general assembly: Provided cmJy, That the voters 
in said elections shall each vote for twenty-three electors, which number 
shall be composed of one person from each electoral districts, as arranged 
by this act. 

3. Be it further enacted, That if the executive of this commonweahh 
shall fail to appoint commissioners to conduct the election of electors of pre- 
sident- and vice-president within any county or corporation of this common- 
wealth, or if no one of the said commissioners so appointed, should attend 
at the time and place prescribed by law, then it shall and may be lawful for 
any two justices of the peace of the county within which the election is to 
be holden, to conduct the said election, and to make returns thereof in the 
same mamier as if they had been regularly appointed and commissioned 
for that purpose by the executive of this commonweahh: Prodded, how- 
ever, That the said justices of the peace shall take the oath prescribed by 



VIRGINIA ELF.CTION LAWS. 515 

law for commissioners appointed by the execulivo for conducting such elec- 
tion, before tliey shall be authorized to perform the duties prescribed by this 
act. 



VIRGINIA ELECTION LAWS. 

"The election of delea^ates, and of the eight senators for one of the four 
classes of senatorial districts, in the room of those wiio will beannually dis- 
placed, shall be held in the several counties, cities, towns and boroughs on 
tlieir respective court days in the month of April of every future year. 

2. No elector shall vote more than once for any senator in the same district, 
at any one election. 

3, Every white male citizen of this commonwealth resident therein, aged 
twenty-one years and upwards (other than such as have refused to give as- 
surance of fidelity to the commonwealth) being possessed, or whose tenant 
for years, at will or at sutierance is possessed of twenty-five acres of land, 
with a house, the superficial content of the (ouudation whereof is twelve feet 
square, or equal to that quantity, and a plantation thereon ; or fifty acres of 
unimproved land; or a lot or part of a lot of land in a city or town estab- 
lished by act of general assembly, with a house thereon of the like super- 
ficial content or quantity, having in such land an estate of freehold at the 
least, and (unless the title shall have come to him by descent, devise, mar- 
riage or marriage settlement) having been so possessed six months, shall be 
qualified to vole for delegates to serve in general assembly, for the county, 
city, town, borough or election district respectivel)^ in which the land lieth. 
If the fifty acres of land, being one entire parcel, lie in several counties, the 
holder shall vote in that county wherein the greater part of the land lieth 
only; and if the twenty-five acres of land, being one entire parcel lie in sev- 
eral counties, the holder shall vote in that county wherein the house stand- 
eth only. In right of land held by parceners, joint tenants, or tenants in 
common, qualified to exercise the right of sufTvage according to the former 
constitution and laws, but one vote shall be given by all the holders capable 
of voting, who may be present, and agree to vote for the same candidate or 
candidates, unless the quantity of land, in case partition had been made 
thereof, be sufficient to entitle every holder present to vote separately ; or 
unless some one or more of the holders may lawfully vote in right of another 
estate or estates in the same county ; in wJiich case, the others may vote, if 
holding solely, they might have voted. 

4. Every white male citizen of the commonwealth, resident therein, aged 
twenty-one years and upwards, being qualified to exercise the right of suf- 
frage, according to the fourteenth section of the third article of the constitu- 
tion, shall be qualified to vote for members of the general assembl)', in the 
manner therein prescribed. If the land in the said constitution mentioned 
and referred to, being one entire parcel, lie in several counties, and be in- 
sufficient in value to entitle the person interested therein to vote in all the 
said counties, such person, whether he be possessed of an estate of freehold 
or leasehold ; whether he be tenant in common, joint tenant or parcener, 
shall vote in that county wherein the greater part of the land lieth only, 
and any citizen claiming the right to vote, in consequence of being entitled 
to a reversion, or vested remainder in fee, expectant on an estate for life or 



5iG ADDENDA TO THE GAZETTEER. 

lives, in land, which, being one entire parcel, may happen to lie in several 
counties, and be insufficient in value to entitle such citizen to vote in all the 
said counties, shall vote in that county wherein the greater part of the land 
lieth only. In case of two or more tenants in common, joint tenants or par- 
ceners, in possession, reversion or remainder, having an interest in land, 
the value whereof shall be insufficient to entitle them all to vote, and who, 
not being qualified to exercise the right of suffrage, according to the former 
constitution and laws,- have had that right conferred upon them by the pre- 
sent constitution, their vote or votes shall in such case be given in manner 
following, th«t is to say: if the value of land be sufficient to entitle them to 
one vote only, the same shall be given by all the said tenants in common, 
joint tenants or parceners, capable of voting, who may be present, and agree 
to vote for the same candidate or candidates. If the value of the land be suf- 
ficient to entitle them to more than one vote, the votes to which the}'- are en- 
titled, shall be given by all the said tenants in common, joint tenants or par- 
ceners, capable of voting, who may be present, and agree as to the candi- 
date or candidates to whom the said votes shall be given. No one of any 
number of such tenants in common, joint tenants or parceners, shall give 
more than one vote at the same election ; nor shall any greater number of 
votes be given by such tenants in common, joint tentants or parceners, than 
the value of tlie undivided land held by ihem may entitle them to give, ac- 
cording to the constUution. When a vote or votes shall have been given as 
aforesaid, by such tenants in common, joint tenants or parceners, the wbole 
of the said tenants in common, joint tenants and parceners, not having been 
present, and not having agreed to the said vote or votes, if he or ihey, who 
were absent at the giving of the said vote or votes, should afterwards appear 
at the said election, before the taking of the votes is at an end, and to the of- 
ficer conducting ihe said election, object to the said votes as given, the same 
shall be stricken from the poll. When an election shall be held at differ- 
ent places in the same county, and such tenants in common, joint tenants or 
parceners, entitled to only one vote, shall be polled at diflercnt places, and 
for a different candidate or candidates, their votes sliall be stricken from the 
poll. When an election shall be held at different places in iiie same coun- 
ty, and such tenants in common, joint tenants or parceners, entitled to give 
n\ove votes than one, shall give their -votes at difierent places, and in oppo- 
sition to each other, the said voles shall be stricken from the poll, if it shall 
appear that all the said tenants in common, joint tenants or pnrceners, did 
not agree, before such votes were polled, to whom they should be given. 
In case of two or more of such tenants in common, joint tenants or parce- 
ners in possession, reversion or remainder, having interest in land, the va- 
lue whereof shall be insufficient to entitle them all to vote, if some one or 
more of them may lawfully vote in right of another estate or estates in the 
same county, the others may vote in the same manner as if he or they, 
holding such other estate or estates in the same county, had no interest 
whatever in the undivded land belonging to the said tenants in common, 
joint tenants or parceners. 

5. If any person shall vote a .■second time at any election for members of 
general assembly ; or if any person shall claim and exercise the right of suf 
frage, in consequence of having paid a part of the revenue of t]ie\;ommon- 
wealth, with which he may have been, by his own procurement, falsely as- 
sessed; each and every such person shall, for his offence, forfeit nnd pay to 
the commonwealth, for the benefit of the literary fund, the sum of thirty-three 



VIRGINIA ELECTION LAWS. 5J7 

dollars thirty-three cents, recoverable by motion in the superior or inferior 
court of law held for the county, city, town or borough, in which the ofi'ence 
is committed, in the name and on behalf of the president and directors of the 
literary fund, provided ten days notice shall have been given of such motion. 

6. Every elector going to, abiding at, and returning from, an election, 
shall be privileged from arrest one day for every twenty miles he shall ne- 
cessarily travel, exclusive of the dq.y of election: and any process against 
such elector, executed during such privilege, shall be void. 

7. And it shall be the duty of the sheriH'or other officer conducting such 
election, not to enttU" on the poll the vote of any person who may offer to 
vote, unless he believes such person to be qualified to vote, or unless such 
person shall take an oath, which the said sheriff or other officer conducting 
said election, is hereliy authorised to administer, or malce solemn affirma- 
tion before the said sheriff or -other oflicer conducting the said election, in 
this form: " /, A. B. do swear, (or do sQhmiily affirm, as the case may be,) 
that I do ill my con.scie/ice beliene viyseJf to 1)p. duly qiuilijicd to vote for <i 
delegate or delegates for the county, city, tovrii, borough, or election/ district 
of , or for a senator for the district of which the county, city, toicn, 
borough, or election district of is a part, to scree in the general as- 
sembly of this commonwealth: So help me Iroil." Uf which oath or affir- 
mation, a note shall be made in the poll book opposite, and referring to, the 
name of the person swearing or affirming. The making such oath or af- 
firmation, or any other oath or atfirmatiou by this act rvi[u\vt'i\, filse/y, shalj 
be perjury. 

8. In the case of an election of a d. 'legate or delegates for a county, city, 
town, or borough, the candidate or cantlidatrs appearing to have the greatest 
number of votes, shall be considered elected; or when the greatest number 
of votes for several candidates, if it be an election of a delegate or delegates 
for a county, cit\% town or borough, shall be equal to one another, the she- 
rifl'or other officer who conducted the election at the court house, may and 
shall declare which ofthi; candidates he will elect, notwithstanding his vote 
as an elector may have been previously entered on- the poll. 

9. The officers conducting elections at the court-house of each county, 
city, town, or borough, within the senatorial districts of this commonwealth, 
shall meet at the times and places herein above directed, and from the said 
polls of their respective counties, cities, towns, and boroughs, shall certify as 
the senator elected, the man who shall have the greatest number of votes in 
the whole district; and if the greatest number of votes for several persons 
to be a senator be equal to one another, and the votes of the returning offi- 
cers be equal also, it shall be decided by a lot taken by such returning offi- 
cers at their said meeting; a copy of which certificate shall be forthwith set 
up by them at the front door of the court-house of the comity, city, town, or 
borough, at which their said meeting may be held, informing the public of 
the name of the senator elected in manner aforesaid; and another copy 
thereof shall be by them delivered to the clerk of the said county, city, town, 
or borough, to be by him safely kept and preserved in his office; and the 
said clerk shall suffer any candidate or elector, at any time, to take a coj)y 
thereof 

10. No elector shall be admitted to a poll a second time at one and the 
same election, although at the first time he shall not have voted for as many 
candidates as by law he might have voted for. If the electors, who appear, 
be so numerous, that they cannot all be polled before sun-setting, or if by 
rain or rise of water courses, many of the electors may have been hindered 



518 VIRGINIA ELECTION LAWS. 

from attending-, the sherifi' or under sherifl>r other proper officer conduct- 
ing such election at the court-house, and the superintendents of any sepa- 
rate poll, (if such cause shall exist at any separate poll, for the adjournment 
thereof,) may and shall, by request of any one or more of the candidates or 
their agents, adjourn the proceeding on the poll until the next day, and so 
from day to day, for three days, (Sundays excluded,) giving public notice 
thereof by proclamation, at the door of the court-house or othej;,,>^lace of 
holding such election, and shall, on the last day of the election, cone lude the 
poll according to the directions aforesaid; but if the poll to be held at any 
such election, is not closed on the first day, the saiia^ ,! ...11 be kept open two 
(days thereafter. 

11. In all cases whatsoever, where by law the sheriff is directed to hold 
an election, in case of the death of the said sheriff, or other officer, whose 
duty it shall be to conduct such election, or where there shall be no such 
officer, the senior magistrate, and in his absence, inability, or incapacity, by 
being a candidate, the second, and so in succession to the junior magistrate, 
is hereby authorised empowered and required to perform the duties of the 
sheriff, prescribed by law in similar cases. And if the mayor of any town, 
city or borough, entitled to representation in the general assembly, shall, by 
death or any other cause whatever, be unable to attend and conduct Uhe 
election according to the provisions of this act, the recorder, or if there be 
no recorder, or he be unable to attend, the senior alderman capable of at- 
tending, shall attend and conduct such election according to law. 

12. On complaint to either house of assembly, of an undue election or re- 
turn of any member to their house, which complaint shall be lodged against 
guch member wjthjn ten days after the meeting of the assembly, where the 
contested election shall have been held at the stated annual period, or within 
thirty days after the day on which the election shall have commenced, (if 
jt be the election of a delegate,) or within thirty days after the day on which 
the last election in the senatorial district shall have commenced, (if it be the 
election of a senator,) where such election shall have been held in conse- 
quence of an intermediate vacancy, and such house shall be in session, or jf 
not in session, within twenty days after the nieeting of the general assembly, 
such house shall forthwith appoint some day for trying the same, as shortly 
as shall be consistent with fair enquiry, whereof notice shall be given by 
the speaker to the party against whom the complaint is, if he be absent, 
which day of trial may "be lengthened from time to time, on good cause 
shewn to the house, and notice to the absent party. On the day appointed 
for the trial, the committee of privileges and elections shall proceed in the 
said disputed election, and report to the house of which they are members, 
their opinion thereon, before they proceed to any ether business; and the 
said house sliall, on receipt of the said report, immediately proceed to deter- 
mine thereon, and either confirm or disagree to such report, as to them 
shall seem just. If any person sworn before the said committee, shall give 
or withhold any evidence, under such circumstances as would have consti- 
tuted the same to be perjury, if done in the presence of a court of record, the 
same shall be deemed perjury. If upon such trial, in the case of a contest- 
ed election of a delegate, it shall appear that equal numbers of qualified 
electors shall have voted for the petitioner and the sitting member, and the 
officer who conducted the election at the court-house of the county, city, 
town, or borou'2:h, (if it be the election of a delegate from a county, city, 
town, or borough,) or a majority of the returning- officers of the election district, 
(if it be the election of a delegate from an election disLrJcf,) shall swear, or 



VIRGINIA ELECTION LAWS. 619 

solemnly aflinn, thait if such equality had appeared at the election in the 
former case, or at the time of their nieetini;- to make the return in the latter 
case, he or tht^y would have declaimed the pelilioner elected, such petitioner 
shall be deemed duly elected, and his name, instead of the name of the sitting 
member, (which shall be erased,) shall be inserted in the certificate of return. 
If upon such trial, in the case of a contested election of a senator, it shall 
appep" *'iat t-qtral numbers of (pialified electors shall have voted for the pe- 
titioner a'i^tl the sitting- member, and a majority of tlie officers who made the' 
return upon such election, shall swear, or solemnly affirm, that if such equa- 
lity had appeared avlk-'time of their meehng ?o make the said return, they 
would have declared the petitioner ehxted, such petitioner shall be deemed 
duly elected, and his name, instead of the name of the silting member,' 
(which shall be erased,) shall be inserted in the certificate of return. 

13. The officers directed to make certiHcates of elections as aforesaid, 
shall cause them to be delivered, those of delegates, to the clerk of the 
house of delegates, and those of senators, to the clerk of the senate, one day 
at least before the succeeding session of general assembly. 

14. For election of a delegate or senator, when a vacancy shall occur by 
death or resignation, during the recess of the general assembly, a writ or 
writs shall be issued by the governor: and in all other cases of vacancy, 
such writ or writs shall be issued by the speaker of that house whereof he 
was a member; but if the vacancy be occasioned by acceptance of an office, 
the writ or writs shall not be issued without the special order of the house. 
And the officer or officers to who-m such writ or writs shall be directed, so 
soon after the receipt thereof as he or they may be able, shall give to the 
electors notice thereof, as well as of the time and place of election, by ad-- 
vertiscment to be affixed at four of the most convenient places in the county, 
city, town or borough, and shall cause the election to be made in the man- 
ner herein before prescribed, and shall have the same power of adjourning 
the proceeding upon the poll, as in case of a general election. 

15. Any person who shall be a candidate for any counter, city, town, bo- 
rough, election district or senatorial district, to sersev-if elected, in the gene- 
ral assembly, who shall, directly or indirectly, give or agree to give, any 
elector or pretended elector, money, meat, drink, or other reward, in order 
to be elected, or for having been elected, or who shall treat, directly or indi-' 
rectly, being a candidate for such or any other county, city, town, borough, 
or election district, or senatorial district, upon due proof thereof to either 
house, shall be expelled. Provided, nevertheless, That nothing herein con- 
tained shall be so construed, as to prevent any candidate from his usual in- 
tercourse of friendship with his neighbors at his own house. 

16. If any sheriff or other officer conducting an election, shall, directly 
or indirectly, so interfere in the election of scnatois or delegates, as to shew 
partiality for any of the candidates, he shall forfeit and pay the sum of six 
hundred and sixty-six dollars sixty-six cents, to be recovered by bill, plaint 
or information, in any court of record, one moiety to the use of the inform- 
er, and the otlver to the use of the ('ommonwealth, for the benefit of the lite- 
rary fund. 

17. All and every member and members of the general assembly are, 
and ought to be and forever sluiU be, in their persons, servants and estates, 
both real and personal, free, exempt and privileged from all arrests, attach- 
ments, executions, and all other process whatsoever, save only for treason, 
felony, or breach of the peace, during his or their attendance upon the gene- 



520 ADDENDA TO THE GAZETTEER. 

ral assembly, and one day before and aftei", for every twenty miles they must 
necessarily travel to or from home; and, in the mean lime, process in which 
they are parties, shall be suspended without abatement or discontintjunce; 
and, if any person taken in execution, be delivered by privilege of either 
house of the general assembly, so soon as such privilege ceaseth, he shall 
retnrn himself a prisoner in execution, or be liable to an escape. 

18. Whereas, the freedom of speech and proceedings appertaineth of 
right to the general assembly, and the preservation thereof is necessary to 
secure the liberty of the people: Be it c/iaclcd, That if any per- 
son shall arrest or prosecute, or be aiding or abetting in arresting and pro- 
secuting a member or members of the senate or house of delegates, for or 
on account of any words spoken or written, any proposition made, or pro- 
ceedings had in the senate or house of delegates, every such, person so of- 
fending, shall be deemed guilty of a misdemeanor, and shall be apprehend- 
ed, committed and tried therefor, as in other cases of misdemeanors, before 
the general court, or a superior court of law of this commonwealth; and, 
being thereof convicted by the verdict of a jury, shall be adjudged to suffer 
imprisonment for a term not exceeding one year, and shall pay a fine not 
exceeding two thousand dollars; which imprisonment and fine shall be as- 
sessed by a jury. 

19. And if any member or members of the said senate or house of dele- 
gates, shall be arrested or imprisoned, for, or on account of any words, spo- 
ken or written, or for any proposition madcj or proceedings had in the said 
senate or house of delegates, such member or members may apply to the 
general court, or a superior court of law, or any judge thereof in vacation, 
for a writ of habeas corpus, who are hereby empowered and required to 
issue the same, returnable before the said court, or said judge, or any other 
judge, and, upon the return thereof, to liberate and discharge such member 
or members. 

20. The provisions of this act shall be extended to the arresting and pro- 
secuting any person or persons, for words spoken or written, or for any 
propositions made, or proceedings had in the said senate or house of dele- 
gates, and to the discharging and liberating any person or persons, by habeas 
coi'pus, as aforesaid, although such person or persons shall, by disqualifica- 
tion, or from any other causes, have ceased (o be a member of the said 
senate or house of delegates, at the time of such arrest or prosecution, or 
of the trial, judgment; or imprisonment, in consequence thereof: Provided, 
That nothing herein contained shall, in any respect, extend to the power 
which either house of the general assembly now hath or may exercise over 
their respective members 

21. Any person intending to contest the election of any other person, as 
a senator or delegate from any senatorial district, county, city, town or bo- 
rough, or election district, shall, within twenly-fiive days after the day on 
which the last election in the former case shall have commenced, or within 
fifteen days aftei the day on which the election (if it be the election of a 
delegate for a county, city, town or borough,) shall have commenced, or 
within twenty days after the day on which the last election (if it be the elec- 
tion of a delegate for an election district,) shall have commenced, give to 
the person whose election he intends to contest, notice thereof in writing; 
and moreover, shall deliver to him, ;it the same time, a list of those persons 
to whose votrs he hath objection, with the objection to each voter written 
opposite to his name, stating that the person ol jccted to, in nut qualified to 



VIRGINIA ELECTION LAWS. 521 

vote according to the constitution, or in case of incapacity, that he labors 
under some express personal disability, according to the provisions thereof, 
to exercise the right of suffrage; and where he hath any other objection 
to the legality of the election, or eligibility of the person whose election he 
intends to contest as aforesaid, (such objection to the eligibility of siich 
person, being founded upon his want of all, or any of the qualifications 
required by the constitution,) he shall in like manner give notice thereof, 
distinguishing his particular objections; and the person whose election is 
contested as aforesaid, shall, within twenty days after receiving such notice, 
deliver the likg lists on his part. 

22. Whensoever the election of any j)('r.--w)n as a senator or delegate, is 
intended to be contcstt-d, the petitioner and the returned mend)er slrall res- 
pectively begin to take their depositions within one month after the delivery 
of the notice in writing as aforesaid, given by the petitioner to the returned 
member, informing him as aforesaid, of his intention to contest his (dcction ; 
and they shall finish taking the same at least thirty days jneccding the com- 
mencement of the ensuing session of the general assembly. And where 
such contest shall arise in consequence of any return made, on any writ or 
writs issued by the governor, or by the speaker of either house' of the 
general assembly, to supply any vacancy which may have happened, the 
party contesting shall give notice in writing to the returned member of his 
intention to contest his election, and moreover shall deliver to him a list of 
those persons to whose votes he hath objection, with the objection to each 
voter written opposite to his name, slating that the person olijecled to is not 
qualified to vote according to the constitution, or in case of incapacity, that 
he labors under some e.xpress personal disability, according to the provi- 
sions thereof, to exercise the right of suffrage; and if he have any other 
objection to the legality of the election, or the eligibility of the member 
returned as aforesaid, (such objection to the eligibility of such member 
being founded upon his want ©f all or any of the qualifications required by 
the constitution,) he shall in like manner give notice thereof, distinguish- 
ing his particular objections, within ten days after the last day on which 
votes shall have been taken in the said flection 7 a»d the member relurr>€d 
as aforesaid, shall within five days after receiving such notice, deliver the 
like lists on his part. 

23.. Notice in any of the cases before menlionod, as well as the li.st.s WA 
with his wife or any other free person over the age of twenty-one yea^s, 
belonging to his family, other than a negro or mulatto, or in case of their 
absence, then at some public place at the dwelling house, shall be deemed 
sufficient. The depositions shall be certified by the commissioners raking 
the same, sealed up, and sent by them to the clerk of that house of which 
the person was returned a member, without delay; and ihe depositions 
taken as aforesaid, shall be by the clerk of the house, respectively, delivered 
to the speaker thereof, to be committed with the petition of the party com- 
plaining, and shall be received and read as evidence upon the hearing there 
ol ; subject, however, to the exceptions of the opposite party. 

24. Subposnas for witnesses shall he issued by the clerks of the courts 
of the counties, cities, towns or boroughs, upon the application of either 
party; and the witnesses shall be entitleil to the same allowance, be privi- 
leged from arrests, and be subject to the like penalties, as witnesses attend- 
ing the county courts. 

25. It §hali b<^ lawful to Iiold a Mparale poll to choose an elector or elec- 

66 



522 ADDENDA TO THE GAZATEER, <fcc. 

tors for president and vice-president of the United States in any count}' of 
this state, at such place or places, as now, or may hereafter be prescribed 
for holding a separate poll or polls for the election of members of the gene- 
ral assembly : And the persons qualified according to law to vote for mem- 
bers of the general assembly of this state, shall assemble at the place or 
places directed for holding such separate poll or polls, on the first Monday in 
November in every fourth j^ear, according to the provisions of the act, entitled 
"an act to reduce into one act the acts now in force providing for the ap- 
pointment of electors to choose a president and vice-president of the United 
States," passed February the eighteenth, eighteen hundred and twenty-three. 

26. If from death, sickness or other cause, the returning officer, herein 
before designated, in any case of a senatorial election, or in any case of an 
election of a delegate for an election district, shall be unable to attend for 
the purpose of comparing the polls, and making the returns at the time 
and place prescribed by law, then such duties, and all other duties conse- 
quent thereupon, shall be performed in the following manner, that is to 
say : If the sheriff; being the proper returning officer, shall have died, 
then the duties aforesaid shall be performed by his successor, if any there 
be; if there be no successol", then by the coroner of the county ; if such 
sheriff be sick, or otherwise unable to attend, the said duties shall be per- 
formed by such of his deputies as he shall appoint for that purpose ; or if 
he have no deputy, by the coroner. If the deputy sheriff, being the proper 
returning officer, shall have died, or be unable to attend, the said duties 
shall be performed by the high sheriff, or by deputy. If a mayor, being 
the proper returning officer, shall have died, or be unable to attend, the 
said duties shall be performed by his successor, if any there be; if none, 
by the recorder ; if no recorder, fhen by the senior alderman capable of at- 
tending. If a recorder, being the proper returning officer, shall have died, 
or be unable to attend, the said duties shall be performed by the mayor, if 
any ; if none, by the senior alderman capable of attending. If a magis- 
trate or alderman, being the proper returning officer, shall have died, or be 
unable to attend, the said duties shall be performed by the magistrate or 
alderman next in seniority, and capable of attending. And if there shall 
be no person hereby authorised, who shall be able to attend and perform 
the said duties, then the clerk of the county, city, town or borough, as the 
case rnav be, shall be bound in all things promptly to perform the duties 
aforesaiti. 

27. The election of members of the house of representatives of the con- 
gress of the United States, shall continue to be held in the manner, and ac- 
cording to the principles prescribtd by the laws now in force in relation 
thereto; except that all persons now authorised to vote for members of the 
house of delegates, shall hereafter be alloAved to vote in such elections; and 
except also, that the said elections shall be held in the several counties, 
cities, towns, and boroughs, on their respective court days in the 
month of August of the present year, and on their respective court days in 
the month of April, in the year eighteen hundred and thirty-three ; and 
also, on their respective court days in the month of April, in every second 
year thereafter; and except also, that the officers holding and conducting 
such elections for members of congress shall, l)efore such election com- 
mences, take an oath lo conduct the election fairly, in the like form with 
that prescribed by the twelfth* section of this act, to be taken by the sheriff 
or other officer conductin g elections of members of the general assembly. 

*The section referred to is the eleventh. 



RATIFICATION OF THE CONSTITUTION. 523 

The Ratifcatioti of Virginia to the Constitution of the United States. 

We, the delegates of the people of Virginia, duly elected, in pursuance 
of a recommendation of the General Assembly, and now met in conven- 
having fully and fairly investigated and discussed the proceedings of the 
iederal convention, and being prepared as well as the most mature deliber- 
ation will enable us, to decide thereon, do, iu the name and behalf of the 
people of Virginia, declare and make known, that the powers granted 
under the constitution being derived from the people of the United States, 
may be resumed by them whensoever the same shall be perverted to their 
injury or oppression, and that every power not granted thereby, remains 
tvith Ihem and at their will : that therefore no right, of any denomination, can 
be cancelled, abridged, restrained or modified by the Congress, by the 
Senate, or House of Representatives, acting in any capacity, by the presi- 
lent, or any department or officer of the United States, except in those 
instances where power is given by the constitution for those purposes : that 
among other essential rights, the liberty of conscience and of the press, 
cannot be cancelled, abridged, restrained or modified by any authority of 
the United States : 

With these impressions, with a solemn appeal to the Searcher of hearts 
for the purity of our intentions, and under the conviction, thai, whatsoever 
imperfections may exist in the constitution, ought rather to be examined in 
the mode prescribed therein, than to bring the union into danger by delay, 
with a hope of obtaining amendments previous to the ratification : 

We, the said delegates, in the name and in behalf of the people of Vir- 
ginia, do, by these presents, assent to and ratify the constitution, recommend- 
ed on the 17th day of September, 1787, by the federal convention for the 
government of the United States ; hereby announcing to all those whom 
it may concern, that the said constitution is bindmg upon the said people, 
according to an authentic copy hereto annexed, in the words following: 



A Declaration of Rights made by the Representatives of the People of 
Virginia, assembled and held at the Capitol in the City of Williams- 
burg, in fall and free Convention — which rights do pertain to thevi 
and their posterity as a brcsis and foundation of Government. 
(Agreed to nem con, June, 12th, 1776.) 

I. That there are certain natural rights, of which men, when they form 
a social compact, cannot deprive or divest their posterity ; among whick 
are the enjoyment of life and liberty, with the means of acquiring, possess- 
ing, and protecting property, and pursuing and obtaining happiness and 
safety. 

II. That all power is naturally vested in, and consequently derived from, 
the people ; that magistrates, therefore, are their trustees and agents, and at 
all times amenable to them. 

III. That government ought to be instituted for the common benefit, pro- 
tection, and security of the people ; and that the doctrme of non-resistance 
against arbitrary power and oppression, is absurd, slavish, and destructive 
to the good and happiness of mankind. 

IV. That no man or set of men are entitled to exclusive or separate pub- 
lic emoluments or privileges from the community, but in consideration of 



524 DECLARATION OF RIGHTS. 

public services; which not being descendable, neither ought the offices of 
magistrate, legislator, judge or any other public offices to be hereditary. 

V. That the legislative, executive, and judiciary powers of government 
should be separate and distinct: and, that the members of the two first may 
be restrained from oppression by feeling and participating the public bur- 
dens, they should at fixed periods be reduced to a private station — return 
into the mass of the people ; and the vacancies supplied by certain and 
regular elections : in which all or any part of the members to be eligible 
or ineligible, as the rules of the constitution of government, and the laws 
shall direct. 

VI. That elections of representatives in the legislature ought to be free 
and frequent : and all men, having sufficient evidence of permanent com- 
mon interest with, and attachment to, the community, ought to have the 
right of suffrage ; and no aid, charge, tax, or fee can be set, rated or levied 
upon the people, without their own consent, or that of their representatives 
so elected, nor can they be bound by any law, to which they have not in 
like manner assented for the public good. 

VII. That all power of suspending laws, or the execution of laws, by 
any authority without the consent of the representatives of the people, in 
the legislature, is injurious to their rights, and ought not to be exercised. 

VIII. That in all capital and criminal prosecutions, a man hath a right 
to demand the cause and nature of his accusations ; to be confronted with 
the accusers and witnesses : to call for evidence, and be allowed counsel in 
his favor ; and to a fair and speedy trial, by an impartial jury of his vicin- 
age, without whose unanimous consent, he cannot be found guilty (except 
in the government of the land and naval forces); nor can he be compelled 
to give evidence against himself 

IX. That no freeman ought to be taken, imprisoned, or disseized of his 
freehold, liberties, privileges, or franchises, or outlawed, or exiled, or in 
any manner destroyed or deprived of his life, liberty, or property, but by 
the law of the land. 

X. That every freem<m, restrainedof his liberty, is entitled to a remedy, 
to enquire into the lawfulness thereof, and to remove the same, if unlawful; 
and that such remedy ought not to be denied or delayed. 

XI. That in controversies respecting property, and in suits between man 
and man, the ancient trial by jury is one of the greatest securities to the 
rights of the people, and ought to remain sacred and inviolable. 

XII. That every freemen ought to find a certain remedy of recourse to 
the laws for all injuries and wrongs he ma)' receive in his person, property, 
or character. He ought to obtain right and justice freely without sale, com- 
pletely and without denial, promptly and without delay, and that al' estab- 
lishments or regulations, contravening these rights, are oppressive and unjust. 

XIII. That excessive bail ought not to be required, nor excessive fines 
imposed, nor cruel and unusual punishments inflicted. 

XIV. That every freeman has a right to be secure from all unreasonable 
searches, and seizures of his person, his papers, and property; all war- 
rants, therefore, to search suspected places, or seize any freeman, his papers, 
or property, without information upon oath (or affirmation of a person reli- 
giously scrupulous of taking an oath) of legal and sufficient cause, are 
grievous and oppressive, and all general warrants to search suspected 
places, or to apprehend any suspected person without specially naming or 
describing the place or person, are dangerous and ought not to be granted. 



AMENDMENTS TO FEDERAL CONSTITUTION. 525 

XV. That ihe people have a right peaceably to assemble together to 
consult for the common good, or to instruct their representatives: and that 
every freeman has a right to petition, or apply to the legislature for redress 
of grievances. 

XVI. That the people have a right to freedom of speech, and of writ- 
ing, and publishing their sentiments; that the freedom of the press is one 
of the greatest bulwarks of liberty, and ought not to be violated. 

XV^II. That the people have a right to keep and bear arms ; that a well- 
regulated militia, composed of the body of the people trained to arms, is 
the proper, natural, and safe defence of a free state. That standing armies 
in time of peace are dangerous to liberty, and therefore ought to be avoided, 
as far as the circumstances and protection of the community will admit ; 
and that in all cases, the military should be under strict subordination to, 
and governed by, the civil power. 

XVIII. That no soldier in time of peace ought to be quartered in any 
house, without the consent of the owner, and in time of war in such man- 
ner only as the laws direct. 

XIX. That any person religiously scrupulous of bearing arms, ought 
to be exempted upon payment of an equivalent to employ another to bear 
arms in his stead. 

XX. That religion, or the duty which we owe to our Creator, and the 
manner of discharging it, can be directed only by reason and conviction, 
not by force or violence, and therefore all men have an equal, natural and 
unalienable right to tlic free exercise of religion according to the dictates 
of conscience, and that no particular religious sect or society ought to b© 
favored or established by law in preference to others. 



Amendments to the Federal Constitution recommended by Virginia. 

I. That each State in the Union shall respectively retain every power^ 
jurisdiction, and right, Avhich is not by this constitution delegated to the- 
congress of the United States, or to the departments of the federal govern- 
ment. 

II. That there shall be one representative for every thirty thousand in- 
habitants, according to the enumeration or census mentioned in the consti- 
tution, until the whole number of representatives amounts to two hundred; 
after which, that number shall be continued or increased as congress shall 
direct, upon the principles fixed in the constitution, by apportioning the 
representatives of each state to some greater number of people from time to 
time, as population increases. 

III. When congress shall lay direct taxes or excises, they shall immedi- 
ately inform the executive power of each state, of the quota of such state, 
according to the census herein directed, which is proposed to be thereby 
raised ; and if the legislature of any state shall pass a law, which shall be 
effectual for raising such quota, at "the time required by congress the taxes 
and excises laid by congress shall not be collected in such state. 

IV. That the members of the senate and house of representatives shall 
be ineligible to, and incapable of holding any civil office under the author- 
ity of the United States, during the time for which they shall respectively 
be elected. 



526 AMENDMENTS TO FEDERAL CONSTITUTION, 

V. That the journals of the prodeedings of the senate and house of 
representatives shall be published at least once in every year, except such 
parts thereof, relating to treaties, alliances, or military operation, as, in their 
judgment, require secrecy. 

VI. That a regular statement and account of the receipts and expendi- 
tures of all public money shall be published at least once in every year. 

VII. That no commercial treaty shall be ratified without the concurrence 
of two-thirds of the whole number of the members of the senate; and no 
treaty, ceding, contracting, or restraining, or suspending the territorial 
rights or claims of the United States, or any of ihem — or their, or any of 
their rights or claims to fishing in the American seas, or navigating the 
American rivers, shall be made, but in cases of the most urgent and ex- 
treme necessity; nor shall any such treaty be ratified without the concur- 
rence of three-fourths of the whole number of members of both houses 
respectively. 

VIII. That no navigation laws or law, regulating commerce, shall be 
passed without the consent of two-thirds of the members present in both 
houses. 

IX. That no standing army, or regular troops, shall be raised or kept 
up in time of peace, without the consent of two-thirds of the members pre- 
sent in both houses. 

X. That no soldier shall be enli.sted for any longer term than four years, 
pxcept in time of war, and then for no longer a term than the continuance 
of the war. 

XI. That each state respectively shall have the power to provide for 
organizing, arming, and disciplining its own militia, whensoever congress 
shall omit or neglect to provide for the same. That the militia shall not 
be subject to martial law, except Avhen in actual service, in time of war, 
invasion or rebellion ; and when not in the actual service of the United 
States, shall be subject only to such fines, penalties, and punishments as 
shall be directed or inflicted by the laws of its own state. 

XII. That the exclusive power of legislation given to congress over the 
federal town and its adjacent district, and other places, purchased or to be 
purchased by congress, of any of the states, shall extend only to such 
regulations as respect the police and good government thereof 

XIII. That no person shall be capable of being President of the United 
States for more than eight years in any term of sixteen years. 

XIV. Tliat the judicial power of the United States shall be vested in 
one supreme cqurt, and in such courts of admiralty, as congress may, from 
time to time, ordain and establish in any of the different states : the judi- 
cial power shall extend to all cases in law and equity, arising under treaties, 
made, or which shall be made, under the authority of the United States ; 
to all cases affecting amba.ssadors, other foreign ministers and consuls ; to 
all cases of admiralty and maritime jurisdiction ; to controversies to which 
the United States shall be a jiarty; to controversies between two or more 
states, and between parties claiming lands under the grants of different 
states. In all ca.ses aficcting ambassadors, other foreign ministers and con- 
suls, and those in which a state shall be a party, the supreme court shall 
have original jurisdiction; in all other cases before mentioned, the supreme 
court shall have apj)ellate jurisdiction, as to matters of law only : except 
in cases of equity, and of admiralty and maritime jurisdiction; in w^hich 
the supreme court shall have appellate jurisdiction l)0th as to law and fact, 



RECOMMENDED BY VIRGINIA. 527 

with such exceptions and under such regulations as the congress shall 
make: but the judicial power ol the United States shall extend to no case 
\vhere the cause of action shall have originated before the ratification of 
this constitution ; except in disputes between states about their territory ; 
disputes between persons claiming lands under the grants of different 
states ; and suits for debts due to the United States. 

XV. That in criminal prosecutions, no man shall be restrained in the 
exercise of the usual and accustomed right of challenging or excepting to 
the jury. 

XVI. That congress shall ndt alter, modify, or interfere in the times, 
places, or manner of holding elections for senators and representatives, or 
either of them, except when the legislature of any state shall neglect, re- 
fuse, or be disabled by invasion or rebellion to prescribe the same. 

XVII. That those clauses which declare that congress shall not exer- 
cise certain powers, be not interpreted in any manner whatsover to extend 
the power of congress; but that they be construed either as making excep- 
tions to the specified powers where this shall be the case, or otherwise as 
inserted merely for greater caution. 

XVIII. That the laws ascertaining the compensation of senators and 
representatives for their services, be postponed in their operation, until after 
the election of representatives immediately succeeding the passing thereof; 
that excepted, which shall first be passed on the subject. 

XIX. That some tribunal other than the senate be provided for trying 
impeachments of senators. 

XX. That the salary of a judge shall not be increased or diminished 
during his continuance in office, otherwise than by general regulations of 
salary, which may take place on a revision of the subject at stated periods 
of not less than seven years, to commence from the time such salaries shall 
be first ascertained by congress. 

And the convention do, in the name and behalf of the people of this 
commonwealth, enjoin it upon their representatives in congress, to exerf^ 
all their influence, and use all reasonable aiid legal methocis to obtain a 
ratification of the foregoing alterations and provisions in the manner pro- 
vided by the fifth article of the said constitution ; and in all congressional 
laws to be passed in the mean time, to conform to the spirit of these amend- 
ments as far as the said constitution will admit. 

Extract from thw journal, 

John Becklev, Clerk of Cowvcntion, 



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67 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 



CHAPTER I. 

INTRODUCTION, PROGRESS OF COMMERCE, ROANOKE SETTLEMENTS, 

Merit of discovering America, —Advancement of Commerce by the cru- 
sades — ill the Italian cities — in Spain, in Portugal, — Discovery of Ame- 
rica, — England, — Want of Commerce in early times, — Voyages oj the 
Cabots, — Progress of English discovery — Frobisher — Gilbert — Ra- 
leigh, — Failure of the Roanoke settlements. 

The c-laims of the Icelanders, the Welsh, and even the Norwegians* to 
the discovery of America, seem in modern times to be universally set aside 
in favor of a native of a milder clime. Indeed the evidence by which their 
respective claims were sought to be established was so vague, contradicto- 
ry and unsatisfactory;! and their discoveries if proven, so entirely acciden- 
tal, and useless to mankind, that it is not at all astonishing that all the me- 
rit should be given to that individual whos^ brilliant genius first demon- 
strated a priori the existence of a continent in the western waters, and 
whose adventurous daring^ led him to risque hia life in the search of a 
world, of the existence of w^hich he was only informed by his science, with 
little aid of any human experience; or that posterity should give to Colum- 
BTTs the undivided glory of an exploit for which he receiA-ed only the igno- 
miny of his contemporaries, and to Italy the honor due the birth place of so 
distinguished a son, from whose brilliant atchievernents she has received 
little else. 

The spirit of commerce and navigation had been spreading extensively 
in Europe, for some time prior to the discovery of America. The mari- 
time towns of Italy early perceived and enjoyed, the advantages of trade, 
and Venice, Genoa and Pisa sprung under the magic of its influence, from 
insignificant towns to the wealth and splendor of populous and magnificent 
cities. This favorable result was much promoted by the crusades. In the 
Holy Avars the Italian cities furnished the transports necessary for the con- 
veyance of the immense hordes of northern and Avestern Avarriors, Avith their 
accoutrements and attendants, which a love of military adA-enture, and reli- 
gious fanaticism, A\^ere pouring upon the plains of Asia. The vast sums 
received for these servicer, and for the supply of provisions to the christian 

* Winterbotham's America, vol. I. p. 1 and 3., and Hinton's United States. 

+ Bancroft's Hist. U. States, vol. I. p. 6, and notes. 

t " L'ltalie reparut, avec les divins tresors que les Grees fugilifs rapporterent dans 
sou sein; la ciel lui revela ses lois; Vaudace de ses enfanfs decouvrit nn nouvel hemis- 
phere," — Dc Stael — Corinne. 



532 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

host, together with the privileges granted them in many of the conquered 
places, — the discovery ot new subjects of commerce, and opening new ave- 
nues of trade, — the extension of the knowledge of the countries of the east 
and the people who inhabited them, — conspiring with the freedom of com- 
merce and boldness of enterprize of the Italian towns themselves, and the 
taste spread through Europe by the returning soldiers of the cross for those 
eastern luxuries and refinements to which they had become accustomed, — 
expanded the commerce of the world immensely beyond all former bounds, 
and threw that commsrce alaiost exclusiyely into the hands of the towns of 
Italy.* . ,. 

The spirit of discovery and commercial adventure so happily aroused and 
extended by the wild and visionary s/zheines of religious bigots for the 
emancipation of the holy land was destined to be yet further extended by 
religious zeaL mingled v\'itb ignorant supex.stition. Benjamin, a Jew,rtra- 
velled from Constantinople through the countries of the Euxine and Cas- 
•pian Seas to Chinese Tartary, in ihc yain hope of discovering his own. sect 
niling in opulence and power, some country of which Europe was igno- 
rant. Innocen* IV. sent two monks, to Zengis Khan in the midst of his 
victories, and equally ignorant of the Pope as of the christian doctjines, 
with orders to embrace the chrietian religion, and to cease, dcsolatibjgithe 
earth. St. Louis of France being made .to helieve that a Tartar Chan had 
embraced the christian faith, and perceiving- the advantages AvhioJi the 
christiaas. could have by the exertions of such an ally, in their, tJature wars 
vvith the Saracens, immediately dp:p!patched two iiionks to him:as ambassa- 
dors; and one of these made a more extensive.ci.rcuit through the interior 
■of Asia than any European had .done before liira: ::.. ,j.. .l . >■* yh 

To these succeeded the loug comaierciaL and.exploritig.expediitionsiiof the 
celebrated Venetian adventurer, Marco Polo, who in tlie course of his 
rambling perigrination^ of 2G years d:urati-on, penetrated to Cambala or 
Pekia the capital of thf' great empire :Qf Cathay or China, and increased 
immenseJ^r the intormalio.n of Europe as. to. tke situation and eondicioTX' of 
countries, from which l.liiiy had long drawn luxuries, through, circuiloug 
commerce, without knowing evfn.tbe pogllioa of thf country u heh>'e they 

came. ..■: -^ .•'.,'•..;:.:,:•.. . 

Half, a century after the Venetian had astonished the yet ignorant and 
A D 1 ■?•>"' almost semi-barbarous inhabitants of Europe, with his ac- 
"" count of the vast extent, wealth, population,, variety of manu- 
facture!^ and extent of trade of the east, his account was confirmed "in the most 
essential particulars by Sir John Mandeville an English gentleman, who 
excited by his example visited most of the countries of the east which he 
had described. 

Whilst this spirit of enterprise was. developing itself, and Europe, be- 
coming more settled aruj civilised, was looking with eager anxiety to war^i 
the vast fields for commerce opening to the east, — another son of, Italy, so 
obscure or so neglected, that we know not his, history, habits or profession, 
was abput to produce a new era in the history of cornmerce, and to advance 
the world a great step in the progress of knowledge and civili.?:ation.-^ 
l^LAVio &WIA, a citizen of Amalfi, discovered the properties of the wa^Tte;", 
and applied it to that^ indispensable instrument of modern navigation, the . 
mariner's com2)ass., 'I'his discovery rendered it no longer necessary for 



* Robertson's Ch. V. and History of Americ 



HISTORY OF VIRCIINIA. 533 

the cautions marinrr to lino tlie coast lor his sufrty, lait he might boldly 
venture npon the broad bosoia of the deep, and thonyh the sun went down, 
ami the stars shone not, he feared nothing, for the hunnble citizen of Amalfi 
had provided him with a guide safer than the coast, and an unerring pilot, 
whose knowledge darkness and storms could not ob.scure or obliterate. 

The first dawning of this bolder spirit seems to have been exhibited by 
the Spaniards in the discovery of the Canary and Fortunate Islands, which 
lie near five hundred miles from the coast of Spain, and more than a hun- 
dred and fifty from the African coast. But although Spain was destined to 
surpass all other nations in the magnitude of her maritime discoveries, by 
the discovery of xVmerica, yet she was not the immediate agent of extending 
that spirit o( maritiiuo adventure, and nautical information which contribut- 
ed so materially in bringing about that event. Tier di.-^coveries of the For- 
tunate and the Canary Isles seem rather to have been the result of accident 
than a permanent course of well directed experiments. It is to one of the 
smallest and least powerful kingdoms of Europe that we are indebted for 
that boldness of conception and persevering enthusiasm of execution, in 
voyages of discovery, from which only grandeur of results in any under- 
taking can ever be expected to spring. 

The final expulsion of the Moors from Portugal, left many ardent and 
adventurous .spirits without occupation, and Portugal being a small mari- 
time staie, too weak to cope with the powerful kingdoms iii its neighbor- 
hood, whose prowess was efjual to its own, naturally looked upon the sea 
. p. .... as the field of its future exploits, and source of its future great- 
^ ■ ■ ■ ness. John I. surnamed the Bastard, having fixed his own ti- 

tle to the crown by a peace with Castile, determined to find employment 
for the restless spirits of his kingdom by an expedition against the Moors 
on the neighboring coast of Africa, but wliilst it v/as fitting out he des- 
patched a few vessels along the coast of Africa in search of undiscovered 
countries. This expedition succeeded in doubling Cope Nou, -which had 
hitherto been the Ultima Tliv.ie of modern navigation. 
A n lit" The success of the king's expedition against the Moors in- 
■ '■ fused into the nation a spirit for new enterprises. Prince 
Henry, duke of Viseo, the fourth son of .Tohn by the sister of Henry IV. 
of England, became the patron and superintendant of the new enterprizes. 
A n 119 Under his auspices Porto Santo, and Madeira were discover- 
111-- p^i j^i^fj L'olonized. It was to his care that the latter island was 
indebted for a stock of domestic animals, a supply of seeds, and slips of the 
A n ion ^'''"^' ^'"*^ cultivation of which, produced such a valuable article 
. *'*-^' of eommerce for the Portuguese, and of luxury for the Avorld. 
The discovery of these islands introduced among the Spaniards a bolder 
sy-stem of navigation. They no longer crept along the coast from head 
land to head land, which was in truth the most diflicult and dangerous 
navigation, but they ventured to keep the open sea, and were thus enabled 
to pass with ease dilTiculties which had before seemed insuperable. Cape 
Bojardor which had been a barrier for twenty years, was passed, and the 
whole coast explored from Cape Blanco to Cape de Verd. Prince Henry 
whose mind seem.s to have been in advance of the age in which he lived, 
manifestly contemplated a passage to India, around the southern coast of 
Africa. He was not deterred by the idea which many had taken up frojri 
the writings of the ancients that the regions of the torrid zone were render- 
ed uninhabitable by their excessive heat, even v\-hen this idea seemed to be 



S34 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

confirmed as they advanced south, by finding the inhabitants jet black, their 
hair short and curled, their noses flat, and their lips thick. Nor was he 
deterred by the captious objections of the envious little politicians about his 
father's court But with the double view of silencing objections, enlisting 
religious zeal in his favor, and acquiring a title to his discoveries, the ■va-' 
lidity of which no christian prince or country of that day would have dared 
to dispute, — he obtained a bull from Pope Eugene IV. giving hira an ex-' 
fJusive right to all countries which he should discover from Cape Non to 
the continent of India. 

The fame of prince Henry's discoveries spread rapidly through Europe;" 
and attracted to him all of the adventurous spirits of the age, who had ac- 
A n llzlQ ^"i'"^^^ ^"^y knowledge of the science of navigation. The 
■ ■ Cape de Verd Islands, and the Azores were discovered, and 

.every discovery added new stimulus to naval enterprise, as every yoyage 
added new information to naval scien^'e. 

A D iir^ ^'^ the midct of his successful career he was unfortunately 
* checked by the hand of death, and Alphonso who occupied the 
throne at the time of his death, being busily engaged in other pursuits, suf- 
fered the spirit of enterprize to languish during the remainder of his reign. 
A n 1191 ^'^ ^°'^ ^^^^ successor John II. speedily revived the spirit of 
^ ' discovery among his subjects, and by his zeal and efficiency' 
more than compensated for the supiueness of his predecessor. He soon- 
found out the advantages of a trade with the natives of the African coast,; 
after he passed the Great Desert, and reached the regions of ivory, gold 
and precious gums. He had the merit of demonstrating' the fallacy of the 
opinion that the torrid zone was uninhabitable, and found that so far from 
this, it was populous and fertile. He too conceived the idea of opening. an 
intercourse with India, around the southern point of Africa, and persevered 
in his favorite object withunwarering zeal, until the practicability of accom- 
plishing his wishes, was fully established by Bartholomcio Diaz, who 
reached the extreme southern point but was unable to pass it, by reason (if 
the violent storms which he there encountered, and the crazy condition of 
his vessel. This point which Diaz named Caho Tor7)ientozo, in commerfio^ 
ration of the diificulties which he had taere encountered, John called the 
Cape of Good Hope, in manifestation of his delight at the certain prospect of 
the accomplishment of his wishes. It has retained the latter name. 

This near prospect of an eaaier and more direct route to India, had al- 
ready began to excite the jealousy of the Venetians, who then nearly mo- 
nopolized the trade of India, and to elevate the hopes of the Portuguese, 
who expected to enjoy a portion of the wealth and luxury which the Veni- 
tians derived from that trade; when the mind.? of both, and indeed of all 
Europe were turned in another direction by the occurrence of ah event. in 
the history of maritime discovery, compared with which all others sunk 
into insignificance. 

This event was the discovery of America, by Christopher Columbus,, 
n>t 11 11QO '^^'^ education of this daring mariner, his disappointments 
"" ' ' '^' and dangers, his difheullies and his brilliant success, or 

the melancholy story of his sad reverses, and the example afforded in him 
of the ingratitude of kings it is not the purpose of the writer to narrate. 
He refrains from recounting so temptingly interesting a narrative, because 
it would lead him too far from his purpose, which is only to narrate giic- 
einctly the progress of navigation and discovery to the time of the first cd^o- 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. S3S 

ny settled in Virginia, — and because tlie same story has been so well told 
by Robertson, Irving* and others, tliat it ought to be familiar to all. 

Notwithstanding the advances in navigation which have been enumerat- 
ed, the art of ship building was still in such a rude and imperfect state, that, 
the vessels in which Columbus embarked on an unknown sea, a modern 
mariner with all the advantages of modern science would scarcely venture 
in, to cross the Atlantic. The largest was a vessel of no considerable bur- 
den,! and the two others scarcely superior in burden to large boats, and the 
united crews of the three only amounted to ninely men, including officers, 
and a few gentlemen, adventurers from Isabella's court. 

But notwithstanding these inadequate means for the prosecution of mari- 
time discovery, the ardour of enterprise was so much excited by the brilliant 
achievements of Columbus, the greedy thirst for gain, and hope of finding, 
.^ome country abounding in gold, together with the eager desire which still 
prevailed of discovering some passage through the great continent of Ame- 
rica, which might lead to India, that in twemy six years f>-c>m the first disco- 
very of land by Columbus; — the Spaniards had visited all of the islands of 
the West Indies, they had sailed on the eastern coast of America from the 
Rio de la Plata to the western extremity of the Mexican Gulf— they had dis- 
e&vered the great southern ocean, and had acquired considerable knowledge 
of the coast of Florida. It is also said that these voyages in search of a nearer 
passage to the East Indies, had extended much further north, but not however 
until that country had been discovered by the sea-men of another nation, of 
whose exploits in the field of maritime adventure we shall presently speak. 

The great interior was still unkown, the whole western and the extreme 
south eastern coast was still undiscovered, and the long line of coast from 
Florida to Labrador had only been seen, and touched upon in a few places. 

England did not at an early period make those advances in navigation, 
to which the eminent advantages of her insular situation invited, and gave 
no promise of that maritime distinction, and commercial wealth, to which 
the wise policy of her subsequent rulers have led her to attain. From the 
times of the conquest to the disco-ve];y of America, England had been en- 
gaged in perpetual wars, either foreign or domestic, and thus while the 
southern portion of Europe and the free cities on the Rhine were advancing 
sa rapidly in opulence and power, England was destitute of even the gerin 
of that naval strength to which she is so much indebted for her preseni 
greatness. Every article of foreign growth or fabric which she consumed, 
was wafted to her shores in the barks of other nations, and the subsequent 
mistress of the seas scarcely dared to float her flag beyond the limits of her 
own narrow jurisdiction. Scarcely an English ship traded with Spain 
or Portugal before the beginning of the fifteenth century, and it required 
another half century fo give the British mariner courage enough to ven- 
ture to the east of the Pillars of Hercules. J 

Feeble as the marine of England then was, her reigning monarch Henry 
VII. did not lack the spirit required for undertaking great enterprises, and 
accident only deprived him of the glory of being the patron of the discoverer 

*This work the writer regrets that b)" some accident, he has never had an oppor- 
tunily of looking into until reccnth', and that very superficially and hurriedly, or it 
might have been useful to him in this sketch. It seems to be unaccountably scarce, 
and far too little known for its great merit, 

t Robertson— Hist. America, 49. 

t Robertson's Virginiaj p. 18—19. 



r> 1 tn 1 <oo +ablo apparel by his skill \n dra^vlna: maps and sea-cl 

r eb. 13, 1 4ob.IrT u i. i- ir - .i • /■ tt i 

^He brouo;iit nimseli to ine nonce oi Henry by prese 



536 HISTORY OF tlRGIKIA. 

of America. Columbus after the failure of his own native country of Ge- 
noa, to encourage his great enterprize, and his second rebufT from .his 
adopted countrj^ Portugal,* fearing another refusal from the king of Casule 
to Avhose court he then directed his steps, despatched his brother Barlhblb- 
mew to England to solicit the aid of Henry VH. who being then at peace 
was supposed to have leisure to undertake a great enterprize which'pro- 
mised such renown to himself and emolument to England. Bartholomew 
was captured by pirates on his voyage, and robbed of all his effects, which, 
with an illness that followed, prevented him from presenting himself at 
court, after he arrived in England, until he could provide himself with suit- 

;hart3. 
ry by presisjit^ng 

him with a map,t and upon his representing to him the proposal of Colum- 
bus, he accepted it v/ith "a joyful countenance, and bade him'fetch his bro- 
ther." i^ So much delay had been produced by the circum.stances mentioned 
that Bartholomew, hastening to Castile, learned at Paris, from Charles, 
king of France, that his brother Christopher's efforts had already been 
crowned with the most brilliant success, || 

When we reflect upon the difficulties which were thrown in the way of 
Columbus at the court of Ferdinand and Isabella, even after they became 
convinced of the practicability of his scheme, and the yet more arduous dTf- 
ficulties which he encountered on his voyage, from the mutinous tiraiJilj'^f 
his crew, we may well doubt vvheiher Henry's courage Would have-sus- 
tained him in the actual accomplishment of the ent:erprize, or wheih.er Eng=- 
land at that time afforded mariners sufticiently hardy to have persevered a 
sufficient length of time in a seemingly endless voyage upon an unknown 
sea. 

. Fortunately, perhaps for mankind the courage of England was not put 
T 94 1407 t<^ f^'iP test of making the first great adventure, a;nd wheth- 
' ' ■ er she would have succeeded in that or not, she was not des- 
titute of sufficient courage to undertake an enterprize of very con&ideiabie 
niagnitude, at that day, soon after the existence of land in our western 
hemisphere had been discovered. -^-— 

The merit of this new enterprize is also due to a native of Italy, and bis 
motive was the same which prevailed in most of the adventures of the^ time-, 
the desire to discover a new route to India. ■ ■ - 

Giovanni Gaboto, better known by his Anglicised'nnmo oi .Tohn Cabp't, 



*" Christ oplioro Cokm temeiido, se parimeiitc. i |;(- (^istj-ljn ivn ,-i . ont.' '^roailH. 
suaimpresa, non gli bisognasse pioporla di nuovo a qualche altro principe, & cosi in 
cio passasse Inngo tempo; mando in Inghelterra vn siio fratcllo che haueua appjesso 
di se, chiamato Barfolomeo Colon." Extract from the 13ih ch. of has; Chiis. Ool •b^' 
his son Fenran: Col. preserved in Hacklyt, vol. 111. p. S3. _ •.-■■.■- ■"' 

+ "Pastilo adunque Bartolomeo Coion per Inghelterra, voile la faia sorted pfea^^^ 
in man di corsali, i quali lo spogliarono ins:eme con gli altri della sua naite. ■ Per Va. 
qiial cosa, & per la sua pouerta & mfivmita, che in cosi diverse terre lo assalisan^^ 
erudelmente, prolungo per gran tempo la sua ambasciata, fin que aquistata on poco" di 
faculta con lar carte, ch ei fabricava comincio afar pratiche co i! Re Enrico Settiiao 
a cui appresento vn mappa mondo." Hacklyt, vol. III. p. 22. - ' . 

$This date is preserved in some curious verses upon the map, of wliieh we give s. 
specimen. "BartholmeAv Colon de Terra Rubra." '=The yeere of Grace, A thousand 
and four hundred and fourscore" "And eight, and on the thirteenth day cf Febnary 
more '-In London published this worke. To Christ all laud therefore.' Idem.-" ' . -■ 

§ "Con allegro volto accetto la sua offerta, & mandolo a ehiamare." Idem ' 

II " Gia scoperte L, Indie." Hacklyt III— 24. 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 53t 

a Venetian merchant who had settled at Bristol, obtained from Henry a 
charter for himself and his three sons Lewis, Stbastian and Santius, allow- 
ing them full power and authority to sail into all places in the eastern, wes- 
tern or northern sea under the banners of England, with five ships, at their 
own proper costs and charges, to discover countries before unknown to 
christians, to plant the banners of England in all ;3uch places, and to take 
possession of them, to hold as vassals of England, to have the exclusive mo- 
nopoly of the trade of ail such places, paying- to the king one-fifih of the 
clear profits of every voyage. All other persons were prohibited from vis- 
iting such places, and the Cabots were bound always to land on their re- 
turn only at Bristol.* 

Under this patent containing "the worst features of colonial monopoly 
and commercial restriction," John Cabot and his celtbrated son Sebastian 
embarked for the west. The object of Cabot being to discover the passage 
to India, he pursued a course more northwardly than any selected by pre- 
vious navigators, and the first land he reached was the coast of Newfound- 
land, which on that account he named Prima Vista, next the Island of St. 
John, and finally the continent, among the " Polar bears, the rude savages 
and dismal cliffs of Labrador," and this seems to have been the only fruit of 
the firstt British voyage to America. 

* Hacklyt, Robertson, Marshall, Bancroft, Burke, &c. 

+ It seems to have been a prevalent error among historians to confound this first 
English expedition of John Cabot with his son Sebastian, under his orders, with the 
second expedition under the sole command of Sebastian, and the second expedition 
being of most importance, as a much larger portion of the continent was diicovered, 
IS most frequently spoken of, and the credit of it is of course given to Sebastian to 
whom it is due, and the first expedition having unacccountabl}'^ been blended with the 
second, John has not received that credit which he deserved. This may account 
for the reason why it would appear that it had been attempted to deprive the father 
of the glory of having accompanied the expedition, as Bancroft (vol. I. p. 10,) thinks, 
and may solve the difficulty which Burke thinks insuperable, (vol, I. p. 37.) Robert- 
son blends the two vo3^ages, but gives John the credit of both, he is followed by Mar- 
shall, Burke and Holmes, (Am. An.; vol. I. p. 17.) The fact of the two voyages may 
be established by the clearest evidence, and thus the father *aay be entitled to the me- 
rit of being the first discoverer, and his son Sebastian of extending the discovery from 
a small barren unpromising coast to the whole continent. Set Bancroft, vol. I. p. 10, 
and 12, and references there quoted. ■ ' ■ 

The first voyage was in 1497, the second in 1498, the first was undertak?ji with six 
ships, the second with only two, and three hundred men, — there is no accoimt of the 
first expedition after the first discoveries of Newfoundland, and the Island of St. John; 
there is a detailed accotint of the voyage of the second up and down the coast from 
the 56th degree of lat. to the coast of Florida, &c. See Hacklyt III. -27, and 28 — and 
V. 282 — 3. There seems, however an error in both of these last references, in the lat- 
ter by making Sebastian Cabot a "Venetian born,'' and in the former in making him 
say that he undertook the voyage by reason of the fame of the discoveries of Colum- 
bus having " created in his heart a great flame of desire to do some notable thing," after 
kis father's death. This last account is quoted by Hacklyt from Baptista Ramusius, 
who gives it upon the authority of Galeacius Butigarius, the Popes legate in Spain, as 
having been told to him by Sebastian Cabot himself, but this story is set aside by tlie 
strongest evidence, which may be found on the same page, purporting to be an extract 
from the map of Sebastian Cabot, cut by Clement Adams, concerning his discovery of 
the West Indies, which is to be seen in "her majesties " priuie gallerie of Westminster, 
and in many other ancient merchants' houses." 

"Anno Domino 1497 Joannes Cobotus Venetus, et Sebastiamis illiusJiUius earn ter- 
ram fecerunl peruiam, quam nuUus prius adire ausus fuit, die 24 lunij, circiter ho- 
ram quintam bene mane. Hanc autem appellavit terram primum visam, credo quod 
ex mari in eam partem pnmum oculos iniecerat, etc. This together with the king's 
patent — " damus et concedimus pro nobis et hceredibus nostris, dilectis nobis loanni 
Caboto civi Venetiarum, Lodovico, Sebastiann^ et Sancio, filijs dicti loannis. et eorum 
63 



538 HlSTOflY OF VIRGINIA. 

In the following year a new patent was given to John Cabot, and the eh- 
Feb 3 1498 ^^''P^'^^'^ ^^'^'^ '^ondiicted by his adventurous and distinguished 
' ' son Sebastian, in this expedition which was undertaken for 

purposes of trade as well as -discovery, several merchants of London* took 
part, and even the king himself f Cabot sailed in a north west coarse, 
in hopes of finding a north west passage to India, as far probably as the 
5Sth or 60th degree of latitude, until he was stopped by the quantities of ice 
which he encountered, and the extreme severity of the Aveather, he then 
turned his course southward and followed the coast according to some 
writers to the coast of Virginia, and in the opinion of some as far as the 
coast of Florida.^ The only commodities with which he returned to Eng- 
land, as far as our accounts inform us, were three of the natives of:the 
newly discovered countries. He found upon his return, the king immersed 
m his preparations for a war with Scotland, which prevented his engaging 
in any further prosecution of his discoveries, or entertaining any design ol 
settlement. 

It is not our purpose to notice the Portuguese discoveries under Cotereal, 
the French under Verrazzani and Cartier, or their abortive attempt at set- 
tlements in Canada, and New England. Nor shall we notice the extensive 
inland expedition of the Spaniards under Soto from Florida, through the 
states of Georgia, Alabama, Mississippi, across the Mississippi, and into 
Louisiana, — or the attempts of the French at settlement in Florida, and the 
Carolinas, — these matters belong rather to the history of the United States, 
than the sketch of the history of Virginia which we propose to give(..we 
pass at once to the British attempts at colonization in America. .,;;;* >\i--. 
_ The progress of maritime adventure extended rapidly. The evidence 

hceredibus," etc. and again Lis permission, "tertio die Febimrij, anno 13, licentiam dedit 
loanno Caboto, quod ipse capere possit .sex naves Anglicanas, etc." sufficient!}' prove 
that Jokn was not dead wlien Sebastian was seized with a "flame of desire to do some 
notable thing," and go to discredit the legate of his holiness. For the authority that he 
was not a Venetian born, but a native of Bristol, — See Bancroft, vol. I. p. 8., note 1,-— 
authority of Eden quoted in his history of Travayles in the East and West Indies, 
" Sebastian Cabot told me-^h»t he was born in Brystow," etc' See also Edward Haie,s' 
account of Gilbert's voyage in 1583, in Hacklyt, vol. III. 184. He calls him an "En- 
glishman born." After all it is not wonderful that Sebastian should have carried off 
most of the credit of this discovery, since he was a yoiing and active mariner, who 
subseqiiently distinguished himself not only in England, but in the service of the en- 
terprizing Ch. V. and thus became known all over Europe to seamen and to literary 
men in the most advantageous light, whilst his father probably died soon after his first 
expedition to this continent. 

*See Robert Fabians, Chronicle, quoted, Hacklyt III., 'SO. 

t See memoir of Seb. Cabot, 85, quoted, Bancroft I., 12. 

tThe diversity among writers upon these matters is astonishing, Baptista Ramiisftis 
:in the account quoted above in note +— p. 557of a conversation held between Galeacius 
Butigarius, and Cabot himself, makes the latter say "I found the land still continent to 
the 56 degree under our pole. And seeing that "there the coast turned towara \ffie 
east, despairing to find a passage, 1 turned back again, &c. and came to that part of the 
coast which is now called Florida, where my victuals failing, I returned to England, 
where I found preparation for wars with Scotland, &c. This same Baptista Rariiti- 
sias says in the preface to the third volume of his navigations, that Sebastian'Cabot 
wrote to him that be sailed beyond the land of New France, at the charge of Henry 
VII. of England, imto the latitude of 67 degrees and a half under the North Pole, an-d 
at the 11th day of June, finding still the open sea without any manner of impediment, 
he thought to have passed that way to the east, and would have done it, if the mutiny 
of the shipmaster and ma.ri7iers had not hindered him, and made him reiurn homenmrd 
from that place. In opposition to this Peter Martyr says in the sixth chapter of his 
Mrd Decade, that he was stopped by ice— et prim.o tendens ad septentrionem donee 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA SS# 

exists of several Eng-iish voyages having- been made not only to the coast 
pf North America, but the Levant, the harbors of northern Africa and Bra- 
A T) r''i9 '^'^^' The visits to the fisheries of Newfoundland hnd become 
' ■' ' ^ *" frequent, and the commerce from that source had become of 
such importance, and to have been the subject of such long and oppressive 
exactions, slb to require the action of Parliament for their prohibiten. 
.-; India was still the great object Avith the merchants, and the discovery of 
An if'T) ^ nearer ]»assage than that offered by the Cape of Good 
f ,' ■ '^'^ ' Hope, the great desideratum with mariners. The north- 
western passage had been attempted thrice by the Cabots in vain, a north- 
eastern expedition was fitted out, and sailed under the command of Wil- 
io«ghby and Chancellor. Willoughby with his ship's company were found 
in tlieir vessel frozen to death in a Lapland harbor; Chancellor with his 
A r> I'-'-'i vessel entered the port of Archangel, and "discovered" the vast 
■ . "^"^ empire of Russia, till then unknown to western Europe. — 
This discovery led to the hope of establishing an intercourse by means of 
'A' n irro caravans across the continent to Persia, and thence to the 
A. U. Ijbtf. distant empire of Cathay. 

, Elizabeth afforded every encouragement to the maritime enterprises of 
ker subjects, and especially encouraged the newly established intercourse 
;^i jiji't. ^ p with Russia. The hope of discovering a north west passage 
T^ '-'f ^'^' ^- vvas by no means as yet relinquished. Martin Frobisher, 
after revolving in his mind the subject for fifteen years, believed that it 
might be accomplished, and "determined and resolved with himself to go 
and make full proof thereof," "knowing this to be the only thing in th^ 

eliam Julio raeiise vastas repererit glaciales moles pelago natantes, et lucem fere per- 
peluam, tellure tarnen libera, gelu liquefacto: quare coacths fuit uti ait vela verUrt 
et occidenlem sequi; tendedit que tantum ad meridiem, ut Herculli freti lalitudtnis 
fere gradus (cqiuirii : ad occidentemque profectus tantum est ut Cuham ftisulam a 
laev*, longitudine graduum pene parem, habuerit." The autjior further says-." Fa.- 
miliarem habem domi Cabotum ipsum, et contubernalem interdura," from which on€ 
would think he ought to know the truth. Francis Lopez de Gomara, a Spaniard, says 
■that Cabot .sailed north 58 degrees, and betier,ihsit in tL«e moath oi July, he was stop- 
ped by cold and ice,- that the days were long, and "in a manner" without any nigla, 
and the night they had was very clear, that he sailed west, and south to 38 degrees^ 
and then returned to England. This Spaniard had probably an acquaintance also 
with Cabot, who resided a long time in Spain, holding the office of Pilot Major.-- 
,These last quoted accounts which seem most credibje, are followed by Hackjyt, vol. 
V, p. 283, Bancroft, vol. I. p. 12. 

■ Holmes in American Annal's, vol. I. p. 18, does not meation the. ice, but supposes 
him to have gone as far N. as 67= 30', and S. as the south of Florida, T\'e find upon re- 
ference to a note which he makes that hehas been struck with the same difficulties with 
which we have been contending in this, and gets over the difficulty by the extreme 
age of Cabot at the date of the conversation and the letter, but nothing short of dotage 
can account for the inconsistences. We see also, that he confounds the first and second 
expeditions of the Cabots by supposing the first was never carried into effect, placing 
the second in 1497, and supposing it conducted by both John and Sebastian Cabot. This 
at first seemed plausible as the date of what we have supposed, the .second expedition 
was 13th of Henry VII. and the battle of Bosworth being fouglit August 22, 1485, the 
I3th year might .seem to embrace June of 1497, but this hypothesis is exploded by re- 
ference to the statement that on the 11th of June Sebastian Cabot was at 67° 30' N. 
lat. whilst his map states that the first land discovered by John and Sebastian was on the 
24iA of June, which could not of course have been on the same year. Bancrolt's ex- 
planation of these difficulties seems best, he supposes another voyage to have been 
made by S. Cabot from England in the reign of Henry VIII. to the north west coast of 
America, to which he alluded in his conversation and his letter. This idea is strong- 
\y confirmed by his reference to Hacklyt, v. III. p. 591,2. 



5m HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

AyorJd-that ^vas left yet undone, whereby a notable mind might be made fa^ 
raous and fortunate."* Frobisher Avas too poor to supply himself with the 
means of carrying his designs into execution, but after much solicitation at 
court he was patronized by Dudlejr, Earl of Warwick, who supplied him 
with two small barks, the one of twenty and the other of twenty five tons bur- 
then, and a pinnace often tons. With this little fleet beset sail, the expedi- 
tion was entirely unfortunate, one of his barks deserted and returned home, 
the pinnace went down in a storm, " whereby he lost only four men," with 
such small vessels and crews did the hardy m.ariners of that day venture 
to cross the Atlantic. The Admiral's mast was sprung, and the top mast 
blown overboard by the same storm in which he lost the pinnace, but noth- 
ing daunted, he persevered, and entered Hudson's bay. The only thing 
accomplished by the voyage was the taking possession of the cold and bar- 
ren wilderness in the name of Elizabeth, carrying home some of the gravel 
and stones, one of the latter of which resembling gold, or probably, having 
some gold artificially mingled with it after it reached London, caused the 
gold refiners nearly to go mad, and the merchants to undertake one of the 
wildest expeditions recorded in the annals of discovery; besides this show 
of gold, which was pronounced very rich for the quantity, the only other 
acquisition was a poor native, whose simplicity was imposed upon by the 
most treacherous device.-^, qntil lie was decoyed to the English vessel, and 
then seized by force, and carried away from his friends. He bit off. his 
tongue from despair a)id died soon after his arrival in England fforn icold 
taken on the voyage. 

■; The mania which the siory of the little bit of gold produced in London 
A D n""/ f^aused a fleet, of several vessels to be fitted out, of which the 
Q,ueen herself furnished one, to bring home the rich produce 
of these icy mines,— the ships returned with black earth, but no gold. 

The spirit of avarice wa^s not to be stopped in her career by a single fai- 
A D 1578 ^'*^*^' ^ new fleet, of 15 vessels was fitted out, and Martin 
Frobisher was given the command, a colony was to be plant' 
ed for the. purpose of working the mines, while 12 vessels were to be sent 
home with ore. Aft^tr almost iiicr^dible difficulties encountered :amidst 
storms and "mountains of floating ice on every side," the loss of some ves- 
.■sels, and the disertion of others, they reached the northern Potosi, and the 
ships Avere well laden with the black earth, but the colonists being disheart- 
ened by their hardships declined settling on the coast, and all returnedto 
England, — we are not informed of the value of the proceeds of the cargo;'.: 

W^hilst the British Q,uecn and her merchants were indulging themselves 
in fancies as brilliant and as evanescent as the icebergs Avhich encumbered 
the scene of the delusion, Sir Humphrey Gilbert, a man of insuperable En- 
ergy and fearless enterprize, formed a desigir of proraoting (he fisheries, 
and engaging in useful colonization. -.-tl 

With this view he obtained a patent of the same character with mostarf 

June 11 1576 ^^.^-^ "^^'^i^h were granted to the early promoters of cofeni^ 

zation in Amerieca, conferring unbounded privileges upon 

the proprietor, and guaranteeing no rights to the colonists. Thefirstexpe- 

*Hacklyt III. 86,— Bancroft 1. 92. This latter -w-riter does credit to otir counfr}'- by 
the extent of His research, the soundness of his judgment, and the beauty of his style 
^e feel no hesitation in taking his opinions whenever the vi'^orks he quotes are not ac- 
cessible, or tooTiumerctts and voluminous for us'to be able to examine them in our ex- 
ceedingly limited time 



HISTORY OF A^IRGmiA. 5*15 

A ' tS T"*'n '^'''"'^ "^ which Gilbert had oxpended much of his private 
■ '^ '■ fortune failed, from what cause is uncertain. 

The second expedition undertaken four years afterwards, was still more 
A r> 1i'9'^ unfortunate, for it lost to the world the gallant, and accom- 
"^ ■ plished projector of the expedition. Five vessels sailed from 
Plymouth on Tuesday the 11th of June 1583; two days afterwards the 
Vice adrPtiral complained of sickness aboard, and returned with the finest 
ship in the fleet to Plymouth. The admiral nevertheless continued his 
course with his little squadron and took possession with the feudal ceremo- 
ny of Newfoundland, to be held by him as a fief of the crown of England, 
in accordance with the terms of his charter. 
;. The looseness of morals displayed by the mariners of that day is truly 
disgusting, and increases our wonder at the daring of men who could ven- 
ture so far from home, in such frail barks, with almost a certainty of en- 
countering on the great highway in their fellow-men, greater perils than 
were presented by all the terrors of the deep. Robbery by sea was toq 
common, and often committed in violation of the most sacred obligations, 
even upon persons engaged in the very act of relieving the distress of the 
depredators.* Gilbert seems to have bepn cursed with a remarkably riotous 
and insubordinate company. The sick and disaffected were left at Newr 
foundland to be sent home with theSwallow, and the Admiral proccedecl 
with his three remaining barks. 

On Tuesday the 20th of August they sailed from the harbor of St. John's 
and on the 29th in about latitude 44 degrees, the largest remaining vessel, 
by the carelessness of the crew, struck, and went to pieces, and the other 
barks were forced by a high sea and a lea shore to struggle for their own 
preservation, which they accomplished with difficulty; afleging at the same 
time that they could see none of the crew of the wreck floating upon tim- 
bers, but all seemed to have gone down, when the ship broke up. A tew 
however escaped to Newfoundland in the ship's pinnace, as was afterwards 
discovered. 

This calamity followed by continual storms, in an unknown and shoaly 
ses, enhanced by an extreme scanlines.s of provisions, and want of clothes 
and comforts in the two little barks, which yet remained, induced the Admi- 
' Auo- '^1 ^^^' ^^ '"'^^ earnest solichation ""of his men to return home- 
'=* * wards. Sir Humphrey Gilbert was vehemently persuaded 
by the crew of the Golden Hind to remain with them during the voyage, 
but^as some malicious taunts had been thrown out by some evil disposoci 
person accusing him of being afraid of the sea, he chof^.e to continue to sail in 
his little pinnace the Squirrel, Avhich was burthened beyond her strength. 
■ After the vessels had left the Azores to the south, and reached the lati- 
itude of England, they encountered violent and continued storms. On Mon- 
day the ninth of September the Squirrel was nearly cast away, but recover- 
ed, and the Admiral was seen sitting abaft with "a book in his hand, and 
he-ard to cry out to those in the Hind, " we are as near to heaven. by sea as 
by land." That same night at 12 o'clock, the Squirrel being in advance 
her light suddenly disappeared, and her hardy crew with their'gallant com- 
A^'^D'Sep 2-^ niander sleep forever in the deep. The Hind reached FaT- 
_• P- '-'-• niouth in safety, but after encountering eminent peril 4.a ttie 

last moment t : -'-:cT- 

♦ See a remarkable instance in Hacklyt, vo\. III., 191. 196, site • 

tHackiyt, III., 134to202. 



642 HISTORY. OF VIRGINIA: 

. Tbe daring spirit of the mariners of that day is amazing*. Sir Walter 
Raleigh, the step brother of Sir Humphrey Gilbert, so far from being in- 
timidated by the melancholy fate of his relative, or disheartened by the un- 
protitable and disastrous termination of most of the voyages to America, 
March 25 1"34 "'^'^'^^'o^^^ io ^'^^ ^^''"7 "^^xt year, an expedition to the coast 
' ' ■ of the present United States. He easily obtained one of 
the usual unlimited patents from Elizabeth, and leaving the cold north with 
its barren snows, its storms, icebergs, and certain evils, together with its 
imaginary wealth, he spread his sails for the sweet south, where he was 
sure to find a fertile soil and a delightful climate, though his ship's compa- 
ny might not all be enriched by the discovery of gold. - ,. ; 

On the second of July they founded shoal water, "and smelt so sweet and 
J I 2 strong a smell, as if they had been in the midst of some delicalg'gar-- 

■' ■ den abounding with all kinds of odoriferous flowers." .^ 

On the thirteenth they entered Ocracock inlet, on the coast of the pre-seut' 
Julv 1*^ ^^'^'■^ °^ North Carolina, and landed on Wocoken Island. They 
, •^ ^' commenced an intercourse with the natives, who proved to be bold; 
confiding, intelligent and honorable,* to their friends, but treacherous, re- 
vengeful and cruel towards their enemies. '.' "{ilfifjh 

The English explored a little the surrounding islands, and bays, aiid^^ 
cj v^tpf^t. y turned home in September, carrying with them two natives;^ 

" ■ Manteo and Wanchese. The glowing description given by the' 

adventurers on their return of the beauty of the country, the fertility of the 
soil, and pleasantness of the climate delighted the Queen, and induced her 
to name the country of which she had taken possession, Virginia, in com-' 
memoration of her unmarried life. ■ -' 

It might be expected that so favorable an account would soon lead fa-ti' 
, pop new expedition; accordingly another was prepared tor the sut'^eeeding 
year, consisting of seven vessels. Ralph Lane was appointed by 
Raleigh, govenor of the colony, which consisted of one hundred and eight 
persons.! Sir Richard Greenville took command of the fleet, and sevc¥at 
learned and accomplished men attended the expedition, one of whom has 
transmitted to posterity many interesting particulars of the nature, ol -^^ 
jeountry, and the habits, manners, and government of its in habitants. ;{: . .t 

The Englisii soon began to maltreat the harmless, unpretending, anif 
T 1 r 1 1 1 J^^r ^''^P^*^ natives, and they on the other hand to grow jealo'us 
^ ' ' ■ of the power of the overbearing strangers. They soon 
learned the inordinate passion of the new comers for gold, and takin^'ad- 
vantage of their credulity inflicted upon them the labor of many fruitless ex- 
peditions in search of pretended mines, hoping at the same. time by these 
divisions to weaken the power of the little colony to such a degree that 
they might be able to destroy it in detachment; but the English were too 
cautious for this, and went too short a distance, and in force too powerfutl 
for the Indians to encounter, with the great disparity of arms. The great- 
est advantage which accrued from these expeditions, and indeed from the 
whole attempt at a settlement, was the discovery of Chesapeake bay. 

The little colony finding no gold and receiving no supplies from Eng"- 
land had begun to despond, when most unexpectedly Sir Francis Drake 

• See a very pleasing account of this interesting intercourse in Hacldyt, III. 304; ^c*:- 
+ Bancroft says 108, Robertson 180, Holmes 107. 
tHariot in Hacklyt, in. 334, 40, 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. "^ 

arrived, on his return from his exjicdition against the Spaniards, in South 
America, with a fleet of throe and twenty ships, 'i'he sagacity of Dralce 
perceived in a moment wliat was necessary for the colony, and his gener- 
osity supplied them with provisions, vessels, and other things necessary to 
maintain their position, extend their researches, and if necessary to return to 
England; but the accomplishment of his purpose was defeated by a violent 
storm which suddenly arose, and nearly wrecked his whole fleet, driving 
the vessel of provisions intended tor the colony to sea, and destroying the 
vessels which had been set apart, to be left for their use. He would have 
supplied others, but the colony with their governor at their head, earnestly 
J iq requesting permission to return to England, he complied with 
'.rj* ,..' their wishes. Thus terminated the first English settlement in 
America. 

This little colony during its sojourn with the Indians, had acquired some- 
thing of their fondness for the use of tobacco, and learned to regard it with 
almost the same superstitious reverence as a powerful medicinal agent. 
IJpon their return they introduced the use of this plant into England, and 
a weed at first disgusting and nauseating to all who use it, has become gra- 
dually the favorite luxury (and indeed with many a neccssarjr of life) of all 
classes of society and of both the young and the old throughout the world, 
and this after e.xperience has proven that in most cases it is an injury r9tljus,'j| 
than a benefit to the health. 

A few daj's after Lane's departure, an English vessel arrived on the coast 
with every necesssary for the colony, but finding it deserted returned home. 
Sir Richard Grenville arrived soon after with three ships well burnished 
with stores, for the colony, but not finding it, he also returned, leaving fif^- 
teen men on Roanoke Island, to keep possession in the names of Great 
Britain.* 

^ |-. I'ST ^^^ genius of Sir Walter Raleigh was not of a nature to 
succumb to slight failures, or ordinary difficulties. The suc- 
ceeding year anocher colony was despatched to settle in Virginia, and that 
they might consider their settlement permanent and Virginia their home, 
many persons with wives and familias wei-e sent. 

7 -7 tcQ-y A charter of incorporation Avas granted for a town to be rall- 
1,;'- ed the Lity of Kaleigh, a name revived m aK<?r times m the 

present metropolis of North Carolina. John White was appointed govern- 
or, and with eleven assistants constituted the administration for the control 
of the colony. Ample provision was made by the noble and liberal pro- 
prietor for the comfort of the colonists, and a plentiful stock of instruments 
oX husbandry provided, to enable them to supply their own future wants 
and establish themselves on the only footing which could possibly be ex- 
pected to be permanent. 
Jlnril T '^^^ company embarked in April and arrived in July, at the 

" " ■ place where they expected to find the fifteen unfortunate men 
whom Grenville had left. But their grounds were grown up in weeds, 
their tenantless dwellings had become the abode of the wild animals of the 
forest, and their scattered bones blanching in the sun, were the last sad me- 
morials which told their fate to their anxious countrymen. Whether they 
fell by civil dissentions among themselves, by famine or disease, or were 
yet more miserably cut ofT by the overpowering numbers of a savage host, 

♦HacklytIIl,323. 



5tl rtistdftY OF vmGfNijf 

taking advantage of their desolate situation, deprived of S3'nif)athj', and des- 
titute of the hope of succour, is one of the iiiysteries of history which tlie 
ken of man may not unravel. 

The sagacity ot Raleigh had directed the new settlement to be madk on 

the shores of the magnificent Chesapcak, and there was the new city to be 

built, but the naval officer preferring trade with the West Indies, to explor- 

i 1 90 i'^o ^he coast, left White on Roanoke Island, and compelled him 

y 'to establish himself there. 

The colony soon became involved in difficullics w'ith the natives, partly 
T 1 90 fromaccident, and partly from the previously engendered hostility of 
^ ■ some of the tribes. Indeed it v.-ould seem impossible a priori, even 
if we had not Unfortunately loo much experience of the fact, that two nations, 
of such different degrees of civilization, manners and habits, with such dif- 
ferent designs, could longer remain together in peace, harmony and the 
footing of equals. It would seem to be the nature of man that the ignorant 
tribe should be jealous, treacherous and vindictive, that the more civilized, 
should be greedy, rapacious and overbearing. And when a spirit of sus- 
picion is once excited, the imprudence of a single individual too often in- 
volves in a quarrel all of the citizens of the little communities; nothing is 
extenuated, and nothing is attributed to accident; but suspicion in the injured 
party supplies the place of mal ice in the aggressor. T. hese difficulties made the 
colonists feel more anxiously their dependance upon England, and forced upon 
them a melancholy foreboding that without frequent and effectual assistance 
from the mother country, they could not long sustain themselves in a strange 
and distant land, the natives of which had become bitterly hostile. U^nder 
this impression when their last ship was about to depart for England tliey 
Icirced their reluctant Governor by excessive importunity to desert iiis charge 
in order that he might lend his personal aid and influence in sending them 
i ^« succour from home. He sailed with the ship but not until after 
"^"='" ■ his daughter Eleanor Dare, the wife of one of the assistant^ Go- 
■ Pernors, had presented him udth the first white child born on the conlinent 
; ,„ of North America. This child was christened Virginia Dare^ and 
V "°* ' vvith her mother was esteemed a sufficient pledge of the exertions 
©i the Governor in aid of the colony, and of his speedy return.' 

White found all England engaged in anxious preparation to meet ihe 
A D l^ftS threatened Spanish invasion, but this did not prevent the ge- 
".. ' ■ ^ ■ nerous Raleigh from despatching him with two ships of ^ap- 
plies for the relief of the colony. But the spirit of gain overcame the spirit 
K.a ., ^^ of humanity, and even the tender ties of parental aflection, 
y.^P" ~'- instead of going at once to the colony, he employed himself in 
-" taking Spanish prizes, and was at last himself overcome, and rifled, which 
compelled him to return to England, much to the chagrin of the ridblepfo- 
prietor, and prtibably the destruction of the neglected colony. --i 

The Invincible Armada of Spain had to be overcome, and the safety of 
England herself to be secured before another effort could be made to"sac- 
cour the liule colony at Roanoke, and when this was accomplished, leisure 
found the noble patron of the enterprise too much impoverished by his pre- 
vious unpfofitable exertions, to fit out at his own expense another exptiii- 
tion. He was obliged to assign an extensive portion of his powers to a 
company of merchants and others who might carry his schemes intosxe- 
cution, but with his profuse liberality, the "active spring which had qiritk- 
ened previous expeditions was gone, the spirit of gain ratlier than of gtdry 



HISTORY OF VJKOINIA • §45 

presided over ihe destinies of infant America, and it war> not until another 
A D 1590 y^^ '^^*^ elapsed, that White was sent in quest of his cub- 
jects and his daughter. 

When he arrived the colony was gone, an inscription on the baric of a 
tree, indicating Croatan as the place whither they had gone, was the last re- 
cord of their existence seen by a civilized eye. Conjecture has pointed 
to an amalgamation with the tribe of Hatteras Indians as the history of 
their destiny, and old Indian traditions and the physical characteristics of 
that tribe are said to confirm the idea, but whilst humanity may indulge a 
hope, credulity itself must entertain a doabt of the truth of the hypothesis. 

White returned to England as soon as he found out that the colony wa.s 
gone, and Raleigh is said to have sent five several times in vain, to search 
for his liege-men, but no tidings were ever received of their existence or 
-their fate. Thus terminated the attempts at settlement on the coast of North 
Carolina, then called Virginia, the scene next opens upon the broad bosoni 
of the "mother of the waters."* 



CHAPTER 11. 

■StTTtEMENT AT JAMES TOWN SUFFERINGS OF THE COTONISTS AC ■ 

VENTURES OF SMITH. 

New Company raised — its charter, — James Town^^—MachiTuriions against 
Smith, — Difficulties of the colony, — Smith taken prisoner — his release, — 
Arrival of Newport, — Discovery of earth believed to be gold, — Depar- 
ture of Newport, — Survey of the Chesapeake and its icaters by Sriiith,— 
Smith made President, — Second arrival of Neicport, — Judicious con- 
duct of Smith, — Neil} Charter, — New arrival of emigrants, — Badness 
of the selection, — New settlements, — Accident to Smith-^-his depariJA,re, 
— his character. 

We have now approached the period m which the British were destined 
to make a permanent settlement m Am.erica. England already possesSfed 
a population considered redundant, in consequence of the inadequate rheans 
of support afforded by her limited commerce, and inefficient agriculture. 
The pacific and timid character of James I. threw out of employment 
many of the brave spirits who had served under Elizabeth, and left them 
the choice of only two means of acquiring wealth or distmction, — and these 
were either to draw a mercenary sword in the quarrels 6f strangers, or to 
se.rve their king and country by transplanting their energy and enterprise 
to a new world. 

Bartholomew Gosnold chose the latter. He was a person of Ta«k 
and intelligence, and had already acquired distinction by his courage and 
skill in arms. He solicited his "friends for aid for m.any years in vain, but 

♦This is the translation usually given of the Indian name " Cbesapeak''-bul Chilly 
Mcintosh, the celebrated Georgia Creek Chief, now removed west ol the Mississippi 
-with his tribe, told the writer another meaning which he said was the true one, bat 
which the writer has forgotten ; but which was however not so unlike the one given 
above but that the same word might well convey the two different impressions, in dif- 
rent Idioms of the same language, 
69 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 



at lefigth attracted the alteiUion of the distinguished adventurer Capt, 
John Smith, Edward Maria Wingfield, a merchant, and Robekx 
HxTNT, a clerg-ymcn, who after taking a year for reflection entered zealous- 
ly into his projects. 

Hothing however coald be eflected until pctsons of Wealth and distlnc- 
{ion could be found to patronise by their favor, and aid by their capital the 
enthusiasm of the adventurers. Sir Ferdinand Gorges, a man of 
wealth, rank, and influence, had been informing himself by conversation 
with several American Indians who had been carried to England by pre- 
vious voyages, and by every other means in his power of the nature of 
the country ; and from the information he obtained became exceedingly 
anxious to possess a domain on the western side of the Atlantic. He per- 
suaded Sir John Popham, lord chief justice of England, to unite in his 
view.'?. Richard Hacklyt, the distinguished compiler of narratives of 
maritime adventures, and one of the assignees of Raleigh, had not yet re- 
linquished his hopes of a permanent settlement in America, notwithstand- 
ing the frequent previous discouraging failures, and cheerfully joined in 
this new scheme of American colonization. The exertions of these ener- 
getic and distinguished individuals speedily raised a company, and procured 
a charter from King James. " 

As this was the first charter under which a permanent settlement was 
made, it may be worth attention to notice some of its prominent features. 
A "l in irnfi '^^^^ charter bears date on the tenth of April sixteen 

-^^^ ' ' hundred and six.* It grants all the country from 

four and thirty to five and forty degrees of north latitude, and all islands 
within one hundred miles of the coast. This immense extent of country 
was divided by the charter between two companies, for the more speedy 
accomplishment of their purpose, — which have beeh ever since designated 
as the London and the Plymouth companies. The London company 
wished to establish a colony between the 34th and 41st degrees of lati- 
tude, and the Plymouth between the 38th and 45th, and (he grants were 
made in conformity to their wishes. But as there Avas room for collision 
between the 38th and 41sf degree of latitude, the colony which first settled 
was to possess the land for fifty miles north and south of its location, and 
the other colony was forbidden to settle within one hundred miles of the 
colony first planted. Each of the colonies was to be governed by a coun- 
cil of thirteen! persons, under the management and direction of a council 
of thirteen in England, which was to regulate both colonies. The council 
in the colonies were to govern according to laws, ordinances and instruc- 
tions prescribed by the king himself The colonies had full power given 
to search for and work mines, paying to the king a fifth part of the gold 
and silver obtained, and a fifteenth of the copper ; and they were further 
allowed to coin money to pass current in the colonies. They were alsp 
empowered to levy a duty of two and a half per cent upon the property of 
the king's subjects trading within their limits, and five per cent upon all 
others so trading, for the use of the colony for twenty one years, and afler- 
wards for the use of the king. 

Certain articles of necessity were allowed to be carried to the colonies 

* See this charter preserved in Stith, — Henning's Stat, at Large, p. 60, and in T- 
Rjnier. 

t It appears afterwards that only seven were appointed ; no reason is assigned for 
the change. 



HISTORY OF VIRGTNTA. r,47 

.1 
fVbiTl any pavf of the king's dominions free of duty for the first Bevew 
years; and the colonists and their descendants were to have forever the 
privilefi^es, franchises, and immunities of native horn Englishmen. 

The English council was to have power to nauie the persons who were 
to compose the colonial council, and the latter elected their own president, 
and supplied vacancies in their own body. The religion of the church of 
England, was established ; lands were to descend as at common law : man- 
slaughter, adultery, and dangerous tumults and seditions Avere to be pun- 
ished with death. The president and council constituted the supreme tri- 
bunal in all cases. The properly of the colonists was to continue in joint 
stock for five years. 

Gae hundred and nine years from the discovery of the North American 
D m irnr continent by Cabot, three small vessels whose joint tonnage 
Uec. 1 J, lt>UD. aj^^ounted to only IGO tons burthen, sailed for the coast of 
Virginia with a colony of 105 men. They were detained for six weeks in 
sight of England by adverse winds. The voyage was prosecuted under 
the command of Captain Newport, who sailed by the old route of the Ca- 
naries and the West India Islands ; thus consuming the valuable time and 
provisions of the colonists in a voyage unnecessarily long and circuitous. 
He did not arrive in the Chesapeake until the 2Gth of April, 

Dissensions had sprung up in the course of the voyage, which there 
Avas no competent authority to quell, as the absurd alfectation of diplo- 
matic m)^stery on the part of King James had sealed up his instructions 
and the names of those who were to constitute the council, in a box which 
was not to be opened until after they arrived in Virginia. 

The southern cape of the Chesapeake received the name of Henry, and 
the northern that of Charles, after the names of the sons of James. Aiter 
landing on cape Henry, the box of instructions was opeued, and Smith* was 
found to be named as one of the council, but he was excluded by the jeah 
das malignity of the rest. Wingfield was chosen President. 
' ■ Soon after passing the capes they reached the mouth of a large and 
beautiful river which they named after their sovereign James, but which 
the natives called Powhatan. About fifty miles from the mouth of this 
, , o I'iver they selected a spot for their settlement, to which they gave 
May lo. ^^^ ^^j^g ^|. J^^,„^gs Toio7i. There could not perhaps he a 
company more unfitted for the duty which it had to perform than that 
which now commenced the foundation of the British empire in America. 
The colonists were in a wilderness surrounded by savages, without a forti- 
fication to repel their incursions, possessed of a scanty supply of provis- 
ions, without means of planting, — and without a habitation, to protect 
them from the weather, save such as they might themselves erect; yet in 
the whole company there were but foii>r carpenters, and twelve laborers, to 
jifty-foiir gcnthmtn. At first however this rare collection of pioneers fell 
to work with spirit, each to his appropriate duty. The president who 
seems to have been a very weak man and ill-suited for his station, was too 
jealous of his own men to allow exercises at arms, or a fortification to 
be erected; and the only protection provided was a sort of half moon 
formed of the boughs of trees by the exertions of PCendaU. Newport, 
Smith, and twenty others were sent to discover the head of the river.. In 

- *'The council named was Bart. GosnoUl, John Smith, Etiward Whigfield, Chiislo- 
pher Newport, John Ralclili'e, John Martin and George Kendall. 



n^ HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

six days they arrived at a town called Powhatan, belonging to king Pow- 
hatan, situated at the falls of the river, near the site ot the present city of 
Richmond,— they were kindly treated by the Indians. When the expe- 
dition returned, ttiey found that James Town had been attacked by the 
savages, and 17 men wounded, and a boy killed. They were attacked 
while at Avork, and their arms out of order; so that the whole w-ere only 
saved from destruction by the timely aid of the vessels. After this expe- 
■rience of his folly the President permitted the place to be fortified, and the 
labor necessary to effect this, with so small a force, whilst it was necessary 
at the same time to guard their workmen by day, to watch by night, to 
prepare ground for corn, and lumber to relade the ships, may be better 
conceived than described. After a stay of six weeks, Newport prepared 
to depart, and the council affecting a tender regard for the character of 
Smith, whom they had falsely accused of a treacherous design to usurp 
royal authority in the colony, and kept out of his seat in the council under 
these charges, now proposed that he might not be utterly ruined by a trial, 
to send him home to the council to be disposed of as it might think proper. 
■But Smith conscious of innocence of the absurd charge, boldly defied 
them, and demanded a trial. His accusers suborned witnesses, who instead 
of answering the expectations of their employers, only exposed the subor- 
nation. The company were so incensed at the infamous conduct of 
his accusers, that they condemned the President to pay him £200, 
which, when j-eceived, ne generously threw^ into the common stock. New- 
port sailed on the 15th of June, leaving 100 men in Virginia. 

The condition of the nien thus left was the most melancholy that can 
well be imagined. Tiiey consisted ior the most part of men entirely 
unused to labor, or hardship ; who were doomed to encounter every kind 
of difficulty, in the midst of summer, in a hot and sickly climate. In ten 
days from the departure of Newport scarce ten men could stand from sick- 
ness and v\'-eaknes.s. T^^e food was scanty in quantity, and of the .most 
unwholesome quality. The allowance of each man was half a pint of 
wheat, and as much badey, boiled in .water, which was served out from. a 
common kettle, and wMch having- been closely stowed in the ship's hold 
for 26 weeks in a warm and moist atmosphere, was reduced to a condition 
any thing but tempting. Smith, the narrator of these suffering-s, humor- 
ously remarks, "If we had been as free from all sins as from gluttony and 
drunkenness, we might have been canonized for saints." As mig^ht i>e 
supposed in such an unfortunate state of affairs great mortality prevailed, 
and fifty were buried between May and September, and those that survived 
relied principally for their subsistence upon sturgeon and sea crabs. The 
suffering in this state of affairs must have been greatly aggravated by the 
knowledge, that the President was indulging himself in every luxiiry 
which the stores afforded, — and his detection in an attempt to escape in toe 
pinnace, from the suffering colony. This last act of treachery was more 
than the little colony could endure, and weak as it was, it deposed him^ 
and Kendall his accomplice. Ratcliffe was made President. The council 
do not seem to have exercised the power granted them in their charter, of 
filling up vacancies, and it was now reduced to three, — Ratclijfe, Smith, 
and Martin; Gosnold had perished, Newport sailed for England, and 
Wingfield and Kf.ndall had been deposed. 

The President and Martin being unpopular men, and very deficient in 
judgment and energy, committed the control .of affairs nearly entirely to: 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 649 

Smith, who by his example and his skill in managing men, speedily reduc- 
ed aft'airs to order, induced the men to work, and provided oomlortable ha- 
bitations. His next object was to obtain a supply of corn Ibr the irrmiediate 
necessity of the people, which he did effectually by frightening the people 
of Kecoughtan, an Indian village situated near the site of the present town 
of Hampton, — after first trying every means to purchase their provision. 
Smith now constituted the only hope not only for the existence of the colo- 
ny as such, but for the lives of the individuals of whom it consisted. Their 
recent wretchedness was not a sulHcient warning to them to preserve order, 
jand to hueband their resources with prudence, now that plenty was provid- 
ed, but they lived as wastefully as if they liad boundless magazint?s at com- 
mand. Smith seeing this, caused the pinnace to be fitted up for a cruise, 
and in the mean time availed himself of the opportunity to become ac- 
quainted with the country lying on the Chickahominy. 

During one of these temporary absences of Smith, Wingfield and Keu- 
dall, who had lived in disgrace since they were deposed, kiid a plot to car- 
ry off the pinnace to England, which the fortunate return of Smith before 
they had time to effect their purpose, prevented. But not even then were 
they defeated, without firing on the pinnace, by which means Kendall jost 
his life. 

?■:■ Smith having gained possession of the pinnace, ascended the Chicka- 
hominy, and procured an abundance of corn. Winter coming on soon af- 
ter afforded an ample supply of game, and wild fowl, so that plenty Avas 
once more restored, and thought no longer entertained of going to England. 

Little souls cannot look upon the greatest exploits of nobler creatures, 
without suffering a captious and jealous malignity to detract from their 
merit. The very beings whom Smith had preserved by his g-ood conduct, 
now murmured against him their absurd complaints — because he had not 
discovered the head of the Chickahomiu}', although he had returned only 
to supply them with food. His spirit could not braok reproach, howevev 
undeserved, for any thing which was yet possible to be accomplished. He 
ag^in ascended the Chickahominy as iar as was practicable in the pinnace, 
and leaving it in a position which he supposed to be safe, he advanced yet 
higher, with two whites and two Indians in a canoe. He left his men with 
his little boat, and taking only his Indian guide, advanced into the fbresl 
witli his gun to procure them provision. Unfortunately, in disobedience to 
his orders, the men in the pinnace went ashore, and one of them was taken 
by the Indians, who learned from their prisoner whither the Captain had 
gone. The savages pursued him, and slew the men left with the canoe 
whilst they slept. They next sought Smith, but found him no easy prey, 
tar tying his guide to his arm as a buckler to keep off' their arrows, he de- 
fended himself so gallantly that they dare not approach him, until falling 
accidentally into a marsh, he was at length forced by cold and fatigue to 
surrender. The savages conducted him to their Chief Opechankanough, 
king of Pamunkee. Smith endeavored to impress the king with a high idea 
of his powers, by presenting him with a mariner's compass, explaining its 
uses, and instructing him in the rudiments of astronomy, by explaining the 
motion of the earth, its shape, and the motion of the sun, moon and planets; 
truths \vhich it is difficult to believe he could make the savage comprehend, 
especially as he had but little knowledge of their language. It is. more 
probable that the king was pleased with the ivory case of the compass,- and 
the mysterious play of the needle, which- he could se« but not touch, and 



550 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

which moved without an apparent cause. Accordingly, we find when hi§ 
men had tied Smith to a tree and Avere about to slay him, the king did not 
attempt to prevent it by explaining the motion of the earth around the sun, 
but merely held up the compass, the sight of which, seems to have befen 
sufficient to disarm their wrath. 

For six or seven weeks Smith was led about in triumph by these simple 
people, and exhibited to the tribes between the James and Potomac rivers, 
during the whole of which time he was in hourly apprehension of being 
put to death; but was generally well treated, and provided with most of the 
luxuries which their simple state afforded. At length he was brought be- 
fore their Emperor, Powhatan, who received him with all the formal pomp 
and state known to his savage court. A long consultation was held by the 
council there ass(-mbled, upon the disposition lo be made of him, which ter- 
minated unfavorably. He was seized by a number of the savages, and his 
head laid upon two great stones which had been brought there for the pur- 
pose. His executioners had already raised their clubs to dash out his brains, 
and thus at once end his toil and difficulties, and cut ofT the only hopfe of 
the colony, when an advocate appeared, as unexpected as would have been 
the appearance of an angel sent immediately from heaven to ask his release. 
7'his was Pocahontas, the Emperor's favorite daughter, who generously 
stepped forth and entreated with tears, that Smith might be spared. Arid 
when she found this unavailing with the inexorable judges, she seized his 
head, and placed it under her own, to protect it from the blows. This sight 
so moved Powhatan, that he permitted Smith to live, intending to retain 
him to make trinkets and utensils for his family and himself. But a few 
days afterwards Powhatan told hini they would be friends again, and sent 
him back to Jamestown, wiih an ofFer of a large district of country in ex- 
change for two oreat guns, and a grindstone, but the party who were to 
carry these things found them so heavy, and were so much terrified by the 
effect of the guns when discharged at a tree, that they were well satisfied 
to return without theai, having received a few paltry baubles and trinkets. 
Smith's return a^ain pre*«nled a party from running off with the pinnace; 
which so incensed them that they laid a plot to slay him, by a mock trial 
for the death of the two men he had left in the canoe, and who were slain 
by the savages, but he was too prompt for the conspirators; whom he seized 
and kept close prisoners until he had an opportunity of sending them to 
England for trial. The colon v was now only preserved from perishmg by 
the\indness of Pocahontas, who brought ample supplies every four or five 
■days. 

During this time the liale colony had not been forgotten by the company 
in England, but Newport soon after his return was again despatched m 
compa'^iy with another vessel commanded by Francis Nelson, furnished 
with all things which could be imagined necessary either for the crews or 
the eolonistsr Nelson when in sight of Cape Henry was driven by a storm 
so far to sea, that he was obliged to land in the West Indies to refit and re- 
new his supply of water. Newport arrived without an accident. Before 
the arrival of this supply Smith had establislied a regular intercourse with 
the savao-es, and bought their provisions at moderate prices, which the 
hifrh estimation in which he was held by them, and the awe which his 
name inspired, enabled him to fix for himself But now the poor colonists 
were so grateful to the mariners who had come to their relief that they 
were perlnitted to trade at such price as they thought proper, by which 



ritStOUY OF VinCJlNlA. 551 

nionns il followrd in a short tiiiK- lliat a pound ofooppcM- would not piirchase 
what had In loro soJd for an ounce. Nt,\\ port thought proper to jiay a visit 
of ceremony to Powhatan, who received the party with <,neat dignify and 
slate. During- tliis visit a contest of wits took place between the two par- 
ties in which Powhatan evinced infinitely greater diplomatic skill than 
Ckiptain Newport, and by working upon his pride was very near consum- 
mating a highly advanlageous bargain; but he in his turn was out-witted 
by the ingemiity of Smith, who having passed many bawblcs before his 
eyes, and finding that his attention was attracted by some blue beads, af- 
fected to value them exceedingly, and intimalid that they were not to be 
worn except by the greatest personages. This inllamed the desire of the 
Emperor to such an extent that he cheerfully gave several hundred bushels 
of corn for a pound or two of these rare jewels, whose beautiful color re- 
sembled the pure ether of heaven. The same stratagem was afterwards 
played olf by Smith with equal success upon Opcchankanough, king of 
Pamunkee. 

Unfortunately when Smith and Newport returned to Jamc,<^town with 
this new supply, and added Jt to their former store, it took fire and the 
greater part was consumed ; together with many of their dry thatched dwel- 
lings, a portion of tJieir paljisade fortifications, and some of their arms, bed- 
ding anil apparel. 

Instead of returning home with all possible expedition Newport remained 
14 weeks in the colony, consuming the precious provision which should 
have been applied to the support of the unfortunate individuals he was to 
leave behind him. Unfortunately too he had brought out some gold refin- 
ers in his ship, who having discovered a glittering earth near Jamestown 
thought it gold, and all hands were diverted from their useful toil for the 
purpose of lading his ship with this worthless article. To such an extent 
did this mania prevail, that Smhh says, "there was no talk, no hope, no 
work, but dig gold, wash gold, refine" gold, load gold." Newport having 
completed his cargo at length returned home. Soon after his departure the 
PhcDuix, the vessel of Nelson, which had been gHren up for lost arrived, 
with all his men in safety, and a good stock of provisions, which he freely 
and fairly gave to the colonists to the extent of his ability. The next sub- 
ject, for consideration, was the return cargo, — to obtain which the Presi- 
dent wished Smith to examine the commodities to be found in the country 
above the falls, — others wished the lading to be of the same gold with 
which Newport was freighted, — but Smith more prudent than ehher suc- 
ceeded in loading the Phcenix with cedar, which was the first available 
cargo sent from Virginia to England. 

Smith accompanied the Phoiuix as far as Cape Henry in a small open 
lunc 2 1G08 '^^'"S"^ .^^'^''^ }'* '"''"> ^^'^'^ which equipment he proposed to ac- 
complish his long cherished obji-ct of exploring the Chesa- 
peakand its tributary waters. It is not our purpose to follow him through 
his two wonderful voyages, undertaken for this purpose, but we will merely 
present an outline of his course from the pen of an able modern author,"* 
from w^hom we have before quoted. "Two voyages, made in an open boat, 
with a few companions, over whom his superior courage, rather than his 
station as a magistrate, gave him authority, occupied him about three 
months of the summer, and embraced a navigation of nearly three thousand 

♦Baacrort, Hast. U. States, vol. I. p. liy. 



552 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

miles. The slenderness of his means has t)een contrasted with the dignity 
and utility of his discoveries, and his name has been placed in the highest 
rank with the distinguished men, who have enlarged the bounds of geo- 
graphical knowledge, and opened the way by their investigations for colo- 
nies and commerce. He surveyed the bay of the Chesapeake to the Sus- 
quehannah, and left only the borders of that remote river, to remain for 
some years longer the fabled dwelling place of a giant progeny. The Pa- 
tapsco was discovered and explored, and Smith pi-jjbably entered the harbor 
of Baltimore. The majestic Potomac, Avhich''at its mouth is seven miles 
broad, especially invited curiosity; and passing beyond the heights of Mount 
Vernon and the City of Washington, he ascended to the falls above George- 
town. Nor did he merely explore the river and inlets. He penetrated the 
territories, established friendly relations with the native tribes, and laid the 
foundation for future beneficial intercourse. The map which he prepared 
and sent to the company in London is still extant, and delineates correctly 
the great outlines of nature. The expedition was worthy the romantic age 
of American history." The map is indeed astonishingly accurate, we can- 
not forbear adding the corroborating testimony of the distinguished Robert- 
son* upon this subject, which is also quoted and approved by Marshall :t 
" He brought with him an account of that large portion of the American 
continent now comprehended in the two provinces of Virginia and Mar.V- 
land, so full and exact, that after the progress of information and research 
for a century and a half, his map exhibits no inaccurate view of both couii- 
tries, and is the original upon Avhich all subsequent descriptions have h'e&n 
formed." 

When Smith returned to Jamestown he found that little had been done, 
Sent 7 IfiOS ^^^ ^ whole summer, which was a season of plenty, was 

'" ' ' ■ wasted in idleness by the folly and imbecility of the President 

whose conduct was so outrageous that the company had been at last forced 
to depose and imprison him. 

Smith was now elected President, and his energetic conduct speedily 
Sent 10 '^'"^"S''^^ affaiTS into good order, and repaired as far as possible the 

^' ' injuries occasioned by the misconduct of his predecessor. 

Soon after Smith's election Newport again arrived, with the preposterpus 
' order, supposed to have been procured by his own representations, not to 
return without a lump of gold, discovery of a passage to the south sea, or 
one of the lost company sent out by Sir Walter Raleigh. He also ahsurdly 
brought some costly articles for the royal household of Powhatan, which 
served only to inflate the pride, without conciliating the affection of that 
Prince. Some Poles and Dutchmen were also brought for the purpose of 
manufacturing, pitch, tar, glass, ashe.g, &c. which would have been well,enotigh 
if the colony had been in a condition always to defy famine, but which it 
Avas impossible to accomplish now, w^hen every man's exertions wereyne- 
cessary to procure a sufficiency of food. Notwithstanding Smith's remon- 
strances, Newport insisted upon his trip of discovery above the ialrs of 
James river, for the purpose of discovering a rout to the south sea, althotlgh 
Powhatan had assured them that the story they had heard of there being a 
sea in that direction was utterly false. The party returned as SmJth had 
predicted, disappointed and disheartened. Since this project had failed 

* See Robertson's Hist, of Va. p. 71. 

+ Marshall's Introduction to life of Washington, p. 41. 



HISTORY. OF vmamU. 658 

Smith having first procured a supply of provisions which Newport and the 
rest witli all iheir vain boasting and their costly presents had tailed to do/ 
and knowing that it was as impossible to find a lump of gold, or one ol 
Raleigh's company as it was to find the south sea on James river; set him- 
self to work to supply a cargo of tar, pitch, boards, ashes and such articles 
as they had it in their power to procure, although with great difliculty and 
labor. So efTeclually did he exert himself, and so much authority had he 
acquired over the delicate gentlemen under his controul, whose tender 
hands blistered with the use of the axe, that in a short time he had provided 
a suflicient cargo, for Captain Newport, who at length departed, leaving 
two hundred souls in the colony. By the return of the vessel Smith wrote 
to the council a letter detailing the cause of their mishaps, assuring them 
that they need not expect a sudden acquisition of wealth, and that nothing 
was to be obtained but by labor. He cotnplainerl of the want of judgment 
and economy in the expenditure for the benefit of the colony, which pre- 
vented them from reaping an advantage of greater value than a hundred 
pounds judiciously expended would purchase, from an actual outlay by the 
company of two or three thousand, lie also especially complained of the 
Jiabils and character of the men sent out, and entreated them when they 
sent again, rather to send "but thirty carpenters, husbandmen, gardeners, 
fishermen, blacksmiths, masons and diggei's up of ti;ee-roofs, well j)rovided, 
than a thou^and such as they had, for unless they could both lodge and 
feed them, they would peri.'^h with want before they could be made goodfol 
any thing." 

From the departure of the ship, until the next arrival the- men Avere only 
A n ifiOQ pi'<^servcd from perishing by the most active and unremittiog 
A. U. .ibUJ. g,.gjjJQj^3 Q^ their President,' the detail of whose conduct in his 
intercourse with the savages, and his management of the ill-assorled, disor- 
derly, turbulent spirits under his controul, is one of thl-Vnofe't interesting sto- 
ries in history, and proves him to have been -a mail oi^extiao-rdinary. abili- 
ties.. " ;.■.., . ■"■- -'^^-'i.'' -'- ■- ^■'^"- ■■"■ •- 
., Although the fond antic!pation3'-of'the'yirginig;^c^mpan3r had been en- 
tirely disappointed, a spirit seems to^-iiaveprfe^'aiiftfHvhich ^vas ra'.b ex dis- 
posed to surmount all difficulties' by "increased exertion, than to suicumb to 
.the accumulated misfortunes Avhich had already been enoouHter^d. 

The company seemed to have perceived their errov in ejq>--;cting a sudden 
atquisition of wealth from their .American possessions; and the defects in 
the.govcrnment established by the fiirst chailer. To renKdy these evils a 
M- ■ 9-^ tfiOQ "®^^ charter* v/as obtained, in which; many individuals, 
May Z6, tbU. . ,^^^^ corporate bodies Aveie included, of ^reat.weaith,- power 
and reputation. . • • ^ 

By the new charter the power which had before been reserved by the 
king was now transferred to the company itself; which was to have the 
power of choosing the supreme council in England, and of legislating in 
all cases for the colon}'-. The powers of the governor were enlarged tiom 
those of a mere president of the council, to supreme and absolute, civ.ii and 
military controul: the instructions- and regulations of the supreme council 
feing his only guide or check. There can be no dou-bt but that this was 
the only praeticable government which could bs cfTered to a cglony in the 
situation and composed of the materials which then existed in Virginia. 

•See Stith and Hennmg. 
70 



§$4 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

The members of the council had only been so many petty tyrants, — the in- 
dolent and weak thwarting the exertions of the industrious and the intelli- 
gent, and the cowardly and factious disputing the authority, and impugning 
the motives of such as were brave and honorable. In truth whenever any 
thing good had thus far been done it was by the exercise of absolute author- 
ity by a mind superior to the rest, and whatever had gone wrong might 
with truth be attributed almost as much to the opposing views of the various 
members of the council, as to the disposition of some to do wrong. 

Lord De La Ware received the appointment of governor for life under 
the new charter, and an avarice which would listen to no possibility of de- 
feat, and Avhich already dreamed of a flourishing empire in America, sur- 
rounded him with stately officers, suited by their titles and nominal char- 
ges to the dignity of an opulent kingdom. The condition of the public 
mind favored colonization ; swarms of people desired to be transported ; and 
the adventurers with cheerful alacrity contributed free-will offerings. The 
ividely diffused enthusiasm soon enabled the company to despatch- a fleet of 
nine vessels, containing more than five hundred emigrants.* Newport wag 
made Admiral, and was joint commissioner with Sir Thomas Gates and Sir 
George Somers to administer the affiirs of the colony until the arrival of 
the governor. Bat these three individuals, with a ceremonious punctilio 
characteristic of littJti minds, seeking that distinction from artificial positions 
in society, which they cannot obtain by their own merit, could not agree in 
a contest for precedence^ and>hence were compelled as a compromise, all to 
go in the same ship. Thus exposing the colony to all the danger of anarchy 
rather than that one should appear by the ship he occupied to be a greater 
man than the other. i 

They accordingly embarked with their commission, their directions and 
much of the provision in the Sea Venture. When near the coast of Vir- 
ginia they encountered a violent storm which destroyed one small vessel, 
and drove the Sea Venture so far to sea that she stranded on the rocks of 
the Bermudas. Seven ships arrived in safety. 

When Smith heard of the arrival of this immense fleet, he at first sup- 
posed it belonged to Spain, and was sent to take possession of the colony, 
he accordingly made all things ready with his usual promptness and energy 
of character, to give them a warm reception, and little fear was entertained 
of the result. Smith had by this time by his good conduct brought the 
savages so completely into subjection by their admiration for his qualities 
and fear of his power, that they had become subjects and servants, planting 
and working for him as he required ; and now when it was thought he 
was about to be attacked by the. Spaniards they lent him all the aid in their 
power. 

The company in England had not attended to the wise advice of Smith 
in the selection of their colonists, for it must be remarked that he had no 
friend at home, whilst his enemies were suffered there to make their own 
representations. In the new batch of ofRcers Ralcliffe and Archer were 
sent back, who had been sent home in disgrace for their idle, dissolute and 
mutinous conduct. They prejudiced the minds of the other officers so 
much against Smith, on the voyage, that they hated him mortally before 
they had seen him. The historian of the times regrets that the fleet was 



♦Bancroft U. S. I., p 153 and authorilies there quoted. 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. W* 

not composed of Spaniatds instead of English men, and thinks it would 
have been better for the colony.* 

Tile newly imported "unruly gallants, packed hither l)y their fritnds to 
escape ill destinies," taking sides with liatclitie, Archt-r and their conkde- 
rates against the President, whose commission they affected to consider aS 
having been superceded by the new commission, conducted themselves 
very riotously, and refused to remain in subordination to any authority. 
Smith bore this for some time patiently, expecting every moment the arri- 
val of the new commission, and wishing when that event happened to de- 
part lor England, and leave the scene of his great sufferings and glorious 
exertions; being willing to quit the service of a company who could so 
unceremoniously dispense with his authority for the purpose of putting 
individuals over him who had no claims upon them, and who knew nothing 
of the management of the colony. Fortunately the commissioners had 
been stranded and did not arrive, and Smith could no longer suffer affairs 
to remain in confusion. After his resolution was taken he quickly laid 
by the heels the most factious, who had been perpetually plotting his des- 
truction and engaging in all kinds of mischief, until he could have leisure 
to do ihem justice. 

The number still remaining at large in James Town being too great for 
that position, and more than could be well supported or easily managed, — 
he despatched West with a hundred and twenty of the best men he could 
select to form a settlement at the falls ; and Martin with nearly as many 
niore to Nansemond ; providing them with a fair proportion of food and 
other necessary articles. Martin managed badly; — his jealous fears in- 
duced him to attack the savages in his neighborhood who had treated him 
well, and take possession of a large quantity of their corn and other pro- 
perty, — whilst his cowardly caution or criminal tenderness permitted them 
to rally and in their turn attack his men with impunity, to kill and wound 
several and retake all they had lost. He sent to James Town for a rein- 
forcement, which he did not employ when he received, but hastened thither 
himself, cowering under the protection of Smith's jirowess, and teaving his 
men to their fate. "- r^-^'^ . ■ > 

The President set out for the falls a few days after West had departed, 
and found that he had located himself m an exceedingly inconvenient stn 
tion, subject to inundation, and surrounded by other intolerable inconven- 
iences. He offered a fair proposition to Powhatan, for the purchase' of his 
place called Powhatan, which he was willing- to afcept, biit the disorderly 
spirits he had sent thither, who were dreaming that the country imme'di'itr 
ly above them was full of gold, to which they uashed no one to'have a'ccers 
but themselves, refused the place, or to ratify the contract, despising alike 
his kindness and his authority. The President with his five men Avent 
boldly among them, and seized the ringleaders of the mutiny, but the 
whole number of a hundred and twenty gathering in upon him, forced 
him to retire, but not without seizing one of their boats, with which he 

* "Had it so been we had been happy ; for we would have trusted them but as our 
foes, where receiving them as our countrymen and friends, they did what they could 
to murthur our President, to surprise the store, the fort, and our lodgings, to usurp 
the government, ard make us all their servants and slaves, till they could consume 
us and our remembrance; and indeed rather to supplant us than supply us, as master 
William Box, an honest gentleman in this voyage relateth." — "Narrative of Witliam 
Potts, clerk of the councell, William Tankard and G, P." in Smith's Hist, of Va, 
pa. 243. 



"i^t HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

look possession of the ship, iii which their provision was lodg-ed. For- 
tunately for Smith he was sustained b)^ the mariners who had learned his 
character from his old soldiers, and their own observations of his conduct, 
as well as by several of the officers who had learned the error of their 
first prejudices, deserted his adversaries, and become his firm friends. The 
Indians eame to Smith, whom they considered as their friend and protec- 
tor,complaining bitterly of the maltreatment of the party at the falls, stat- 
~ing that they were worse than their old enemies the Monocans, from whom 
it was the dutj'- of the party to protect them, and seeing- thar turbulent 
disobedience, they ofl^ered their aid to chastise them. Smith remained nine 
days longer trying to heal these differences, and to convince them of the 
absurdity of their "guilded hopes of the South sea mines." But finding 
all in vain he set out for James Town. Such visionary and disor^ierly 
persons were the first civilized inhabitants of the present polished, intelli- 
gent and hospitable city of Richmond. No sooner was Smith's voyage 
commenced down the river, than the savages attacked those he left behind 
him, and slew many and so frightened the rest that they suftered the pris'on- 
ers they held in custody to escape. The terrified wretches fled for safety 
to Smith, whose ship had grounded, and submitted without stipulation to 
his mercy. He seized six or seven of the lingleaders, and imprisoned 
them ; the rest he placed in the savage fort Powhatan, which from t4w 
beauty of its position, the excellence of its houses and fortifications, and 
Other advantages, was called Non-such. He also satisfied the savage.". 
This fair prospect was again marred by the imbecility of West,- wholisteil- 
ed to the deceitful tales, and whining entreaties of the prisoners, and re- 
leased them, wliich again threw all things into disorder; the evil disjiosf^d 
being the more encouraged in their mutinous conduct now by the posses- 
sion of their provisions and stores which had been returned to them at the 
time of their previous submission. They abandoned Non-such and re- 
turned to their former inconvenient station at West's fort. Smith finding 
it impossible to restore tranquility, again set sail down the river. 

In his progress an unfortunate accident occurred Avhich deprived the 
colony of his services, and was near depriving him of life. His powder 
bag accidentally exploded whilst he was sleeping, and tore the flesh from 
his body and thighs in a horrible manner. The pain was so acute that 
he threw himself into the river to cool the burning sensation, and was near 
drowning before he could be recovered. He had yet to go nearly one hun- 
dred miles in this situation before he could reach a surgeon, or have any 
soothing application applied to his wound. 

When he returned to James Town, the time for the trial of Ratcliffe 
and Archer was approaching, and these worthies fearing the result, hired 
an assassin to murder him in his bed, but the heart of the wretch failed 
him, ere he could fire the fatal shot. Failing in this, their next hope was 
to save their lives by possessing themselves of the government, but in this 
they were disappointed by Smith, who having in vain urged all those he 
thought most worthy to accept the Presidency, resigned it to Mr. Percy, 
who was about to sail for England but was induced to stay under the pre- 
sent embarrassing circumstances, to prevent the supreme control of the 
colony from falling into the hands of the miscreants who aspired to it. 

Smith finding himself disabled by his wound, the pain of which almost 
deprived him of his reason, and seeing that there was not sufficient surgi- 
cal skill in the colonj' to restore him, determined to depart for England. 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 557 

He Well knew that in his disabled state tlie colony was no place for him, 
for it had rociuired his utmost exertion in health to suppress faction at 
liomc, keep the Jndians in awe, and by the most unceasing activity supply 
the colony with pi'ovision. He departed under the most mortifyiufr cir- 
cumstances ; — "his commission was suppressed he knew not whj-, liiinself 
and soldiers to be rewarded he knew not how, and a new commission 
granted they knew not to whom." After his determination was known 
the ships which were to have departed the next day were retained three 
weeks, whilst the mutinous captains were perfecting some colorable charge 
to send home against him. Never had the colony sustained such a loss. 
His conduct and his character will be best given in the language of those 
wlio knew him best. A wrher who was with him in his troubles speak- 
ing of the attempt to usurp the government immediately before his depar- 
ture, says : — 

"But had that unhappy blast not happened, he would qiiickl}' have 
qualified the heat of those Immors, and factions, had the ships but once left 
them and us to our fortunes; and have made the provision from among 
the savages, as we neither feared Sjianiard, .savage, or famine; nor would 
have left Virginia nor our lawful authority, but at as dear a price as we 
had bought it and paid for it. What shall I say but thus, we lelt him, that 
in all his proceedings, made justice his first guide, and experience his 
second, even haling baseness, sloth, pride, and indignity, more than any 
danger, — that never allowed more for himself, than his soldiers with him; 
that upon no danger would send them where he would not lead them him- 
self; — that would never sec us want what he cither had, or could by any 
means get us; — that would rather want than borrow, or starve than not 
pay ; — that loved action more than words, and hated falsehood and covet- 
ousness worse than death ; whose adventures were our lives, and whose 
loss our deaths." 



558 



CHAPTER III. 

PROGRESS OF THE COLONY MASSACRE OF 1622 DISSOLUTION OF THE 

LONDON COMPANY. 

State of the colony at Smithes departure, — its conduct and consequent 
suffen?igs, — Arrival of Gates — of Lord Dc La Ware, — his departure. 
Arrival of Dale, — Martial law, — Gates Governor, — Grants of land 
to individuals, — New charter, — Marriage of Pocahontas, — Friendly 
relations toith the Indians,— Subjection of Port Royal and Manhat- 
tan, — Cultivation of Tobacco, — Tenure of lands, — Tyranny of Ar gall, 
— Propriety of reform in the government, — Yeardley Governor, — First 
colonial assejubly in IG19, — Introduction of women, — Introduction of 
negroes by the Dutch in 1620, — Constitution brought over by Sir Fran- 
cis Wyatt. — Relations with the Indians, — Massacre of the 22d of 
March, 1622, — its consequences, — Struggles between, the king and the 
company, — Commissioners sent to Virginia, — Firmness of the Vir- 
ginians, — Dissolution of the company. 

When Smith left the colony, it contained four hundred and ninety odd 
persons. The harvest was newly gathered and there was provision for 
ten weeks in the stores. . The savages were in a good state of subjection 
and readily yielded at a reasonable price whatever they could spare. All 
things were in such a condition that prudent management might have in- 
sured the most brilliant success, but the wildest confusion and anarchy pre- 
vailed. The new President was so ill that he could not attend to business, 
and twenty others endeavored to hold the reins of government. When 
the savages found that Smith was gone they speedily attacked and broke 
up the establishments at Powhatan and Nansemond, driving in the I'em- 
nant of the men their butcheries left, to subsist upon the rapidly wasting 
provisions of James Town. Ratcliffe with a vessel and thirty men attempt- 
ing to trade with Powhatan was by his carelessness cut oil", and he himself 
with all his company perished except two, who were saved by the humani- 
ty of Pocahontas, West with a crew of thirty escaped in a ship to be- 
come pirates.* The miserable company now left without control or 
authority, and composed wiih a few exceptions of "gentlemen, tradesmen, 
servingmen, libertines, and such-like, ten times more fit to spoil a common- 
wealth, than either begin one, or but help to maintain one," now gave free 
rein to all their evil dispositions. Each one sought only to gratify his 
passions or preserve his own life, without regard to the wants or suffering's-' 
of the rest. There was no union, no concert, no harmony. Vice stalked 
abroad in her naked deformity, and her handmaids, misery and famine 
followed in her train. The savages attacked and slew the whites u}X)n 
every occasion, and forming a systematic plan to starve the remainder, they 
would supply no further provisions ; after they had bought every disposa- 
ble article at the fort, even to most of their arms, at such a price as they 

♦Smith in book 4, pa. 2, says, "sailed for England." — Bancroft 150, says on the 
authority of Stilh— "became pirates." 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 559 

chose to exact. The corn was speedily con.sumcd, next followed the 
domestic animals, poultry, hogs, goats, sheep, and finally the horses; all 
were consumed even to their skins. The only resource was in roots, 
acorns, berries, and such other unwholesome stuff as could be found ; nay 
so pinching was the hunger, that savages who had been slain and buried 
were disinterred to be consumed, and even some of the whites who had 
perished were used to preserve life by the rest. Of nearly five hundred 
that Smith left, in six months only sixty emaciated beings remained alive; 
and these were without the possibilhy of support for longer than ten day^. 

When Gates and Summers were shipwrecked on the Bermuda rocks, 
their good management saved the life of every individual, and a large 
proportion of their provision and stores. On this island although unin- 
habited, nature was so bountiful, and presented spontaneously such a rich 
variety of productions suitable to the sustenance of man, that their hun- 
dred and fifty men lived in ease and abundance for nearly ten months. 
The disagreeable idea of remaining thus upon an island, cut off fVom all 
intercourse with the rest of the world, stimulated them to the exertion 
necessary to build two barks, with such rude instruments as thtry possessed, 
from the wreck of their old ship and the cedars of the island. In these 
they embarked for Virginia, expecting to find in the comforts and plenty of a 
flourishing colony ample solace for all their toil and difficulties. What then 
it/f no was their astonishment when they reached James Town, after a 

^^ more prosperous voyage than they could have expected in their 

crazy vessels, to meet instead of the warm and joyful welcome of their coun- 
trymen, in the full fruition of health and plenty, only the greedy cravings of 
a few miserable wretches, begging for a sufficiency of food to preserve 
their existence. Not anticipating this melancholy situation they had only 
provided themselves with enough provision for the-ir voyage, and were 
unable to releive the necessities of their fellow creatures, whose sufferings 
it was so painful to witness. It was impossible in this situation to r('- 
main longer in the colony. All were embarked on board the vessel?, 
James Town was abandoned, and it was with difficulty that its depart- 
ing citizens could be prevented from setting fireto'the habitations in which 
they had suffered so much misery. All the provisions which could be 
raised did not amount to more than would support them for sixteen days, 
at the most limited allowance, yet with this they set out Avith the hope to 
reach Newfoundland, where they expected to be relieved by the British 
fishing vessels. 

But although it had been the will of heaven to permit the colonists to 
receive an awful chastisement for their misconduct, j-et it was not decreed 
by the ruler of all human affairs that the colony should be entirely aban- 
doned, and so much labor and suffering be useless to mankind, or so fine a 
country left in its original wild and unimproved condition. Before Gates 
and his associates had reached the mouth of James river, they were met 
by Lord De La Ware with three ships, having on board a number of new 
settlors, an ample stock of provisions, and every thing recjuisite for defence 
or cultivation. By persuasion and authority he prevailed upon them to 
T in lAin ^^^^r" ^0 James Town, where they found their fort, and 
' ' houses and magazines in the same situation in which they 

iiad been left. A society with so bad a constitution and such a weak and 
disordered frame required skillful and tender nursing to restore it to vigor. 
Lord De La Ware was fully competent to his stafiori. H^ held a icfng 



5G0 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

coiisullation to asccrlain the cause of tlie previous difliciilties, and concluded 
after listening to tlieir mutual accusations, b}'^ a speech full of wholesome 
advice, rocouimending the course they should pursue, and assuring them 
that he should not hesitate to exercise his lawful authority in punishing 
the insubordinate, dissolute, and idle. By unwearied assiduity, by the 
respect due to an amiable and benificent character, by knowing how to 
mingle severity with indulgence, and when to assume tht; tlignity of his 
office, as well as when to display the gentleness natural to his owirtemper, 
he gradually reconciled men corrupted by anarchy, to subordination and 
discipline, he turned the attention of the idle and profligate to industry, and 
taught the Indians again to reverence and dioad the English name/ Un- 
March^S 1611 '^^^ such an administration, the colony began once mofje 
' ' to assume a promising appearance : when, unhappily for 
it, a complication of diseases brought on by the climate obliged Lord 
De La Ware to quit the country: the government of which he committed 
to Mr. Percy.* The colony at this time, consisted of about two hundred 
men; but the departure of the governor was a disastrous event, whfch 
produced not only a despondency at James Town, but chilled the zealous 
warmth of the London company, and caused a decided reaction in: the 
popular mind in England, which was exhibited [in the mamter in wfesick 
popular feeling delights to display itself- by exhibiting the Virginia CQlony 
as a subject of derision upon the stagcj ^ ^ -; .-, - • . ■ ; :. > .-4 

Before the departure of Lord Ue La Ware the company in England-had 
despatched Sir Thomas Dale with supplies, and it was w'ell he arrived so 
Mav 10 IfiM ^o*^"^' fo'i' ^''t' company w^as. already fast relapsing to their 
"' ' ■ forjner s-tate of idleness and iitiprovidence, and had nc- 

"glected to plant corn ; which he caused to be doae iiinnediately. The com- 
pany having found all their previous systems of government inefficient, 
granted to Sir Thomas Dale more absolute authority than had been grant- 
ed to any of his predecessors, impowering him to rule by martial law.;; a 
short code of which founded on the practice of the armies in the lo^v 
countries, the most rigitl school at that time in Europe, .they sent outwith 
him. This system of vioientaiwl ttjibiirary government was reconnTiend^ 
ed by Sir Francis Bacon, the most enlightened philosopher, and one of th$ 
most eminent lawyers of his age.- It proves the depth of his sagacity, for 
It would have been absurd to apply .the- refined speculative theories of- civil 
government to a set of mutinous, undisciplined, idle,- ignorant fxeatures, 
shut up in a fort, surrounded by hostile nations, and dependent upon t^ieir 
own exertions for support. Surely in such a case a strong government 
was as neces.sary as in a ship at sea, and more so than in oi;dinary military 
stations, where habitual discipline preserves order, and ensures respect to 
the officers. , - . > 

The governor who was now entrusted with this great but necessary 
power exercised it with prudence and moderation. By the vigor which 
the summary mode of military-punishment gave to his admini.st4-ation, he 
introduced into the colony more perfect order than had ever been estabr 
lished there ; and at thesame time he tempered its vigor with, so much 
discretion, that no iihtrm seems to baye been given, by this innovation. 

In May Sir Thomfts Dale wrote to England fuU-infoimation of the 



* Robertson's Virjrinia, pa. SO. 
+ Bancroft, 150. 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. '561 

weakness of the colony, bUt recommending in sliong terms the importanre 
of the place. His favorable representations were fully confifm<xl by l,ord 
De La Ware and Sir Thomas Gates. The hopes of the oonip:ihy were 
resuscitated, and in August, Gates arrived at James Town with six .ships, 
and three hundred errtigirants. The colony which now consisted of seven 
hundred men, was surrendered into the hands of Gates, and Dale by his 
permission made a settlement with three hundred and fifty chosen men 
upon a neck nearly surrounded by the river, which in honor of Prince 
Henry, he called Henrico. 

One of the greatest checks to industry which had hitherto existed in the 
colony Was the communiiy of property in the provisions and stores. The 
idle and dissipated seeing that they were to have a full share, had no stim- 
ulus to exertion, and the industrious were disheartened by seeing the larger 
portion of the fruits of their industry consumed by the idle members of the 
little society. So discouraging was this state of ihmgs to exertion, that fre- 
quently in "the best times, the labor of thirty did not accomplish more than 
was done under a different system by three. Gates perceived the evil and 
applied the remedy. He distributed a certain portion of land to each indi- 
vidual to be worked for his own benefit, still paying however a small por- 
tion of his produce to the general store to provide against contingencies. 
This policy was found so advantageous that every encouragement was af- 
forded to individual enterprize in the acquisition of wealth. But little re- 
spect was piiid to the rights of the Indians, for some depredation or injury 
froni the tribe of Apamatuck, they were dispossessed of their corn and their 
cabins, which "considering the position commodious" were unceremonious- 
ly appropriated by the English to their avm benefit. 

The colony now having extended considerably, assumed a more regular 
\T Vi 19 Ifil'S ^^^"^ ^y pursuing a more consistent system of policy; and 
March lA lolxi. j,ggj„fjj„g ^q promise permanency, a new charter was 
granted by Janies. This confirmed and enlarged all the privileges and im- 
munities which had been previously granted, extended the time of exemp- 
tion from duties, and enlarged their territory and jurisdiction to all islands 
and seats within thtee hundred miles of the coast. This included the new- 
ly discovered, fertile Bermudas, which were coon after .sold by the company 
to one hundred and twenty of its members * ... 

This new charter made some changes in the constitution of the company, 
by giving more power to the company itself and less to the council ; it also 
conferred the power of raismg money by lottery for the benefit of the colo- 
ny, which was the hrst introduction of this pernicious system of taxation 
\T h i(\'}\ '""^^ England, and which was soon after prohibited by act of 
Marcfi WZl. parliament, but not until the company had raised nearly 
thirty thousand pounds by the privilege. " 

As the new system of Voli^^V had increased the independence and pre- 
served the numbers of the colony, so had it increased its strength, and the 
respect of the savages. One powerful tribe now voluntary sought British 
protection and became British subjects, another was brought to a close and 
friendly alliance by a tenderer tie than fear could aflbrd. 

Captain Argall in a voyage to the Potomac for the purpose of purchasing 
corn, fell in with an old chief named lapazaws, to whom Powhatan had en- 
trusted Pocahontas, which h«diselose.d to Argall. and offered to sell her to 



*Hohne's Am. An. I. 175, 
71 



562 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

him for a copper kettle. The bargain was made, and Pocahontas being en- 
ticed on board by the cunning of her guardian, was carried off without once 
suspecting the treachery of the old hypocrite. The authorities at Jamestown 
availed themselves of the possession of this lucky prize to endeavor to ex- 
tort from Powhatan a high ransom; but the old Emperor though he really 
loved his daughter, seemed to be so highly affronted at the indignity offered 
him, that he preferred fighting those who had robbed him of his daughter 
to purchasing her freedom.. But whilst this matter was in agitation a trea- 
ty of a different character was going forward between the young princess 
herself and Mr. Rolfe, a highly respectable young gentleman of Jamestown, 
who struck by her beauty, and fascinated by her manners so far superior 
to the rest of her race, wooed and won her affections and obtained a pro- 
mise of her hand. The news of this amicable adjustment of all difficulties 
soon reached the ears of Powhatan, and met with his cordial approbation. 
He sent the uncle and two brothers of Pocahontas to witness the nuptial 
ceremonies at Jamestown, which were solemnized with great pomp, accord- 
ing to the rites of the English church. From this marriage several of the 
most highly respected families in Virginia trace their descent, Happy 
would it have been for both races, if this amalgamation had been promoted 
by other instances, but this is the only case upon record. This mar-- 
riage secured the permanent friendship of. Powhatan and all under 
his influence: and the Chickahoniinies, his next neighbors, when they heard 
&f it, sent deputies, and submitted by solemn treaty to become subjects to 
king James, and to submit to his governor in the colony, — to pay tribute, — ■ 
and furnish men to fight against whatever enemies should attack the colo- 
ny ; only stipulating that at hom« they should continue to be governed by 
their own la us. 

: No better evidence eovild eoiist of the opinion which the colony entertain- 
tf^o sd at this time of its own stability and power, than the fact that they 
■ sent two successive expeditions under Captain Argall to the French 
settlements at Port Royal, in Acadia which he effectually succeeded in de-" 
stroying. This ^vas done in a time of profound peace between the two na- 
tions, and the only semblance of lighit is afforded in the prior discovery 
of the continent by Cabot, for the French settlement was beyond the limits 
of the Virginia charter. As Argall returned he stopped at the port of New 
York, and forced Hendrick Chrisliaens, the governor of the Dutch colony 
there located, to become a subject of the crown of England, and submit tq 
the authority of its representative the governor of Virginia, and to , pay 
tribute. When Argall was gone, the Dutchman no doubt smoked his pipe 
and pursued his trade as-eomposedly a^. be had before, for no use was ever 
made of this conquest.. . . »■ . 

We have already mentioned a partial distribution of lands by Sir Thomas 
Ddle, for the purpose of encouraging individual industry; it may be well 
to explain more in detail the tenure by which lands were held by indi- 
viduals. At the favored Bermudas plantation, near the mouth of the Appo^ 
mattox, either on account of the greater merit, longer service, or some fa- 
vorable circumstances attending the expense of the emigration ot the te- 
nants, the lands were held by a rent of two and a half barrels of corn annual- 
ly to the general stock, and one months' service, which was not to be in 
time of sowing, or of harvest. Those who had been brought over at the ex- 
pense of the company, had three acres of land allotted them and two bushels 
of corn from the public store, and with this scanty allowance were required 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 563 

to support themselves l)y cue month's labor; the other eleven being required 
by the company. This species of laborers had decreased in 1617 to fifty 
four, including all classes; and these Avere finally released entirely from 
their vassalage by Sir George Yeardly in 1617. The original bounty ta 
emigrants, coming at their own e.vpense, or that of others than the company, 
had been one hundred acres of land; but after the colony became better set- 
tled it was reduced to fifty, the actual occupancy of which gave a right to 
as many more. The payment of twelve pounds and ten shillings to the 
treasurer of the company, entitled the adventurer to a grant of one hundred 
acres, the occupancy of which also secured a right to as many more.* 
' The labor of the colony which had been for a long time misdirected in 
the manufacture of ashes, soap, glass and tar in Avhich they could by no 
means compete with Sweden and Russia, and also in planting vines which 
require infinite labor and attention, and for which subsequent experiments 
have indicated the climate to be unfit; was at length directed by the extend- 
ed use of tobacco, in England! almost exclusively to the cultivation of that 
,,,^ article. This commodity always finding a ready price, and aflairs 
'^' being now so regulated that each one could enjoy the fruits of his 
labor, was cuUivated so assidiously, as to take oft' the attention of the plan- 
ters too much from raising CG?n, so that it became scarce, and supplies had 
again to be looked for from England or purchased of the Indians. The 
fields, gardens, public squares, and even the streets of Jamestown were 
planted with tolbacco, and thus becoming an article of universal desire it 
became to a great extent the circulating medium of the colony. Not only 
private debts but salaries and officers' fees were paid in tobacco, and the 
statute book to this day rarely mentions the payment of money, that it does 
not add as an equivalent "or tobacco." 

Early in the year 1614 Sir Thomas Gates had returned to England leaving 
the colony, which then consisted of about four hundred men, under the com- 
mand of Sir Thomas Dale, who in his turn desiring to visit England and 
his family, left the colony in 1616 under the protection and control of Sir 
Thomas Yeardley. 

With Dale, Mr. Rolfe and his intfe#«isting 'bride Pocahontas sailed. By 
a communication from Smith her amiable and valuable conduct was made 
known at court, and every attention was shown her both by the Q.ueen and 
many of the nobility. This excellent Princess, whose deportment was so 
far superior to that which the condition of her race would authorize one to 
expect, that it won for her universal admiration and esteem, was destined 
never more to behold her father or her native land. She died at Graves- 
end, where she was preparing to embark with her husband and child for 
Viro-inia. Peace to her gentle spirit, her memory will not perish whilsc 



^ iSmith, Book IV. pa. 18. Bancroft I. 167,— Burke. 

tNote by Robertson,— " It is a matter of some curiosity to trace the progress of the 
consumption of this unnecessary commoditv. The use of tobacco seems to have teen 
first introduced into England about the year 1580. Possibly a few sca-farmg persons 
may have acquired a relish for it by their intercourse wilh the Spaniards previous to 
that period- but it could by no means be denominated a national habU; anterior to that 
date Upon an average of the seven years immediately preceding tlnj year 16-32, the 
whole import of tobacco into England amounted to a hundred and Inrty two thousand 
and ei°-hty tive pounds weight. Stith p. 246. Prom this it appears, that the taste had 
spread with a rapidity which is remarkable. But how mconsiderable is that quanti- 
ty to what is consumed now inGreat Britain!" or now ! ! 



564 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

the commonwealth of Virginia endures, or noble and generous actions are 
valued by her sons. 

Yeardley's administration was similar to that of his predecessors, enfor- 
cing obedience from his own men, and the respect of the savages. He was 
succeeded in 1617 by Captain Argall, Avho was a rough seamen, accustomed 
to the despotic sway of his own ship, naturally tyrannical in his disposition, 
cruel and covetous, in short a person utterly unfit to be trusted with the ad- 
ministration of the arbitrary government which then existed in Virginia. 
For although we have considered such a government the only practicable 
one which could have been then established, yet it required the utmost firm- 
ness in the governor, tempered by mildness, prudence and discretion to 
make it tolerable. Such had been the case under the administration of 
Gates, Dale and Yeardley, and under them the colony had prospered more 
than it had ever done before; but such was not the disposition of this new 
governor. Instead of holding the severity of the laws in terrorem over 
them, and not actually resorting to the extent of his power except in cases 
of extreme necessity, he sought to bring innocent actions within the letter 
of the law, which indeed was not very difficult with the bloody military 
code which then existed. These arbitrary exertions of power were princi- 
pally used in the gratification of his inordinate rapacity, which in its indis- 
criminate grasp sought not only to clutch the property of the colonists, but 
also trespassed upon the profits of the compnay. Not satisfied with per- 
verting the labor of the free colonists to his own use or pleasures, he con- 
sumed the time of the servants of the company upon his own plantations. 
At length his conduct was so flagitious in the case of one Brewster, who 
was left by Lord Delaware to manage his estate, and who only sought to 
prevent Argall from utterly despoiling it, that neither the colony or compa- 
ny could bear his tyranny longer, but he was deposed and Sir George 
Yeardley sent in his place. Yet hecontriv^ed to escape punishment, by the 
mismanagement of some, and the connivance of others, and preserved kll of 
his ill-gotten booty. 

One of the first acts of Yeardly was to emancipate the remaining ser- 
1619 ^^^^^ ofthe colony. The labor now being free, each man enjoying 
the fruits of his own industry and anxious to increase his store, there 
was no fear of scarcity, and no time or opportunity for mutiny among the 
scattered and industrious planters. With the increasing strength and tnde- 
pendence* of the colony all fear of the savages had vanished. It is mani- 
test that in these altered circumstances a modification of the despotic go- 
vernment ought to have been made, because its severity was no longer ne- 
cessary, and whilst the power existed it might be abused, as the colony se- 
riously experienced in the case of Argall. ^The only use of government is 
to insure the safety of the state from external foes, to secure justice and the 
free disposuioa of person and property to each individual, and sometimes to 
aid in the prosecution of such objects of general utility as individual enter- 
prize cannot accomplish. The moment the colonists began to take an in- 
terest in the country, by the enjoyment of their own labor, and the posses- 
sion of property, it was right that they should have some share in that go- 
vernment, in the prudent conduct of which they were most interested.— 
"Veardley was aware of this, for without any authority frpm home which 



*The savages now sometimes purchased corn uf the English, mstead of supplvine 
them as formerly. c > . v^^'t' j s 



HTSTOIIY OF VTROtNIA. 50S 

we can trace* he called together a General A.ssomV)ly consistin": of two mem- 
bers from every town, borough or h mi dred, besides the governor and coun- 
cil, which met at Jamestown, near the end of June 1619. In this assembly 
seven corporations were represented, and four more were laid oft" in the 
course of the same summer. 

In this first North American Legislature, wherein was "debated all mat- 
ters thought expedient for the good of the colony," several acts were passed 
which were pronounced by the treasurer of the company to be "well and 
judiciously carried," but which arc unfortunately lost to posterity. This 
was an eventful year to the colony, for in addition to their assembly, a col- 
lege was established in Henrico, with a liberal endovvment. King James 
kad exacted £i.'5,()U0 from the several bishops of his kingdom for the purt 
pose of educating Indian children, and 10,000 acres of land were now ad- 
ded by the company; and the original design was extended to make it a 
seminary of learning also for the Fmglish. One hundred idle and dissolute 
persons, in custody for various misdemeanors, were transported by the au- 
thority of the king and against the wishes of the company to Virginia. 
They were distributed through the colony as servants to the planters; and 
the degradation of the colonial char-ncter produced by such a process, was 
endured for the assistance derived from them in executing the various plans 
of industry, that were daily extending themselves. This beginning excited 
in the colonists a desire for using more extensively other labor than their 
own, an opportunity for the gi'atificalion, of which unfortunately too soon 
occ4jrred. In this eventful year too, a new article was introduced into the 
trade of the company with the colony, by the good policy of the treasurer 
Sir Edwin Sandys, which pi-oduced a material change in the views and feel- 
ings of the colonists with regard to the country. At the accession of Sir 
Edwin to office, after twelve years labor, and an expenditure of eighty thou- 
sand pounds by the company, ther^ was in the colony no more tharj six 
hundred persons, men, women and children. In one year he provided ^ 
passage for t^velve hundred and sixty one new emigrants. Among these 
were ninety agreeable young women, poor but respectable and incorrupt, 
to furnish wives to the colonists, 'i'he wisdom of this policy is evident,— j- 
the men had hitherto regarded Virginia only as a place of temporary so- 
journ for the acquisition of wealth, and never dreamed of making a perma^ 
nent residence in a place where it was impossible to enjoy any of the com- 
forts of domestic life. Thev' had consequ.ently none of those endearing ties 
of home and kindred to bind them to tlie country, or attach them to its in- 
terests which are so necessary to make a good citizen. This new comr 
modity was transported at the expense of the colony, and sold to the young 
planters, and the following year another consignment was made of sixty 
young maids of virtuous education, young, handsome, and well recommend- 
ed. A wife in the first lot sold generally for one hundred pounds of tobac 
ca, but as the value of the new article became known in the market, thg 

*It is not however probable that such an. important step was taken without authori- 
ty. The assembly seems to have been convene J in conlbnnity to principles laid down 
in the instructions to Sir Francis Wyalt in lG-21, and probably was procured at the so- 
licitation of the colony after the deposing of Argall. The authority o^i which the 
statement that such an assembly was held is Siith IfiO: (See Hen. Stat, at Large, t. 
1-31.) The acts passed were pre.sented ou ihc ^'.hh of March t'ullowing, to the court of 
the company for confirmalion, and were pronounced by Sir Edwin Sandys then trea- 
surer, to be well and judiciously formed : See also Smith, vol. II. 39, for an account of 
this assembly in confirmation of Stith. 



566 HISTORY OF VIRGmiA. 

price rose, and a wife would brino- a hundred and fifty pounds of tobacco; 
A debt for a wife was of higher dignity than other debts, and to be paid' 
first. As an additional inducement to marriage, married men were gene- 
rally preferred in the selection of officers for the colony. Domestic ties 
were formed, habits of thrift ensued, comforts were increased, and happiness 
diffused; the tide of emigration swelled; within three years fifty patents 
for land were granted, and three thousand five hundred persons found their 
way to Virginia. 

In the month of August of this year an event occurred which stamped 
,pg^ its impress upon the constitution of Virginia, and indeed of the 
whole southern portion of America so deeply, that it will be difficult 
to erase it save by the destruction of society. This was the introduction of 
20 A'l-ican slaves by a Dntch vessel, which availed itself of the freedom of 
commerce which had been released from the shackles of the company's 
monopoly in the early part of this year, to rivet forever the bonds of slavery 
upon a portion of their fellow-creatures and their descendants. The in- 
dented and covenanted servants which had been long known in Virginia, 
and whose condition was little better than that of slavery, was a small evil 
and easily removed, because they were of the same color and country with 
their masters; when they were emancipated they leaped at once from their 
shackels to the full dignity of freedom. No one scorned to associate with 
them, and no one spurned their alliance, if honorable and worthy in other 
respects they were equal to their masters and might even rise to di.stinction. 
But not so to the poor African. Nature has fixed upon hnn a stamp wlvich 
cannot be erased or forgotten, the badge of his bondage is borne with him, 
when his fetters have crumbled to the dust, the curse of Cain is upon him, 
and no one will mingle with him. By the white man he is loved and che- 
rished as a distant and humble dependant — but he is despised with disgust 
as a companion ; — and the contamination of a mixture with his blood is 
loathed as a deep, endless, irremediable stain. Under such circumstances 
emancipation is impossible without removal, but when and where and how 
is this to be effected? This question posterity must answer, — all that wfe' 
can do is to treat them with kindness and humanity, and this is done. 

The overbearing disposition of king James created a powerful popular 
party in England, which being unable to establish a liberal government at 
home, was determined to secure for free principles a safe asylum in the col- 
onies. The accomplishment of this determination was accelerated- by the!^ 
disposition of the king to intermeddle with this very subject. He Avas ex- 
ceedingly jealous of the company, in which the patriot party prevailed, and 
suspicious of the liberal principles discussed in its meetings with nncOntrol- 
ed freedom: he feai-ed it as the school of debate, and nursery of Parliamen- 
tary leaders. Upon the resignation of Sir Edwin Sandys of his office as 
M T7 iron tr^^^isurer, the king determined to try the extent of hisinfJii- 
May 1/, lb.^U. ^^^^^ -^ ^j^^ election of a successor to this first office in the 
company. He accordingly sent in a nomination of four individuals, to one 
of whom he desired the office to be given; but he proved unsuccessful in 
his attempt at dictation, and none of his nominees were elected, but the 
choice fell upon the earl of Soulhompton. 

The company having thus vindicated its own privileges, proceeded next 
to guarantee freedom to the colonists, by a constitution remarkably liberal 
for the time and circumstances. This charier of freedom, the principles of 
which the Vir.ginians never could be brought subsequently to relinquish, has 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. S&f 

been preserved to posterity in "summary of the ordinance and constitution 
of the treasurer, council and company in England, for a council of stalo,and 
another council to be called the General Assembly in Virginia, contained in 
a commission to Sir Francis Wyait (the first governor under that ordinance 
and constitution) and his council," dated July 24, 1G21.* 

The council of state was to be chosen by the treasurer, council and com- 
pany in England, with the power of removal at pleasure, their duty was to 
advise, and assist the governor, and to constitute a portion of the General 
Assembly. This General Assembly was to be called by the governor once 
a year, and not oftener, unless on very extraordinary and important occa- 
sions; it was to consist, in addition to the council of state, of two burgesses, 
out of every town, hundred or other particular plantation, to be respectively 
chosen by the inhabitants; in which council all matters were to be decided, 
determined and ordered by the greater ])art of the voices then present, re- 
serving to the governor always a negative voice. "And this General As- 
sembly was to have full power, to treat, consult and conclude, as well of all 
emergent occasions concerning the public weal of the said colony, and every 
part thereof, as also to make, ordain and enact such general laws and or- 
ders, for the behoof of said colony, and the good government thereof, as from 
lime to time might seem necessary." 

The General A.ssembly and council of state were required to imitate and 
folloAV the policy of the form of government, laws, customs and manner of 
trial, and of the administration of justice, used in the realm of England, as 
near as might be, as the company itself was required to do, by its charter. 
No law or ordinance was to continue in force or validity unless it was so- 
lemnly ratified in a general quarterly court of the company, and returned 
under seal ; and it was promised that as soon as the government of the colo- 
ny should once have been well framed and settled, that no orders of court 
should afterwards bind the colony, unless they were ratified in the same 
manner by the General A.ssembly. 

Thus were the elements of a free government established, at the arrival 
of Sir Francis Wyatt, on a soil from which Ehey wt^e never to be eradicated, 
in less than one year from the time \^hen domestic slavery was instituted in 
the same place, on a footing which promises equal permanence. 

When Sir Francis arrived he found that negligence and security amongsf 
the colonists, which is the inevitable consequence of a long peace. Old 
Powhatan had died in 1618, honored by the esteem and respect ol all who 
knew him, — his own people, holding in grateful remembrance his prowess 
and policy in youth, and ins mildness in age, — and his English friends and 
brethren admiring his firm support of his dignity, his paternal affection, his 
mild simplicity, and his native intelligence. He was succeeded in his pow- 
er by Opechancanough his younger brother, who was cunning, treacher- 
oas, revengeful and cruel. He renewed the former treaties, with every as- 
surance of good faith, and wore the mask of peace and friendship so suc- 
cessfully as completely to lull the whites to security. But this crafty 
prince had always viewed with peculiar jealousy and hate the progress of 
the colony. He had given much trouble, and engaged in frequent hostili- 
ties, whilst he was king of Pamunkee, and it was not to be supposed that 
he would patiently submit to the continued and rapid encroachments of the 
whites upon his lands, to the entire extermination or banishment of his peo- 

*See Henning's Stat, at Large, vol. I. p. 113. 



568 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

pie, now that he possessed the empire oi his brother. But to rn ret thein i-n 
the field was impossible, the dispariiy in arms was too great, and the num- 
bers in fighting men now equal,* the attempt would be madness and des- 
peration, and lead to that extermination of his race which he wishc d to 
avoid. His only resource was to strike some great and sudden blow which 
should annihilate the power of the colony at once. He had applied to a 
king who resided on the Eastern Shore, to purchase a subtle poisonf which 
grevv only in his dominions, but this king being on good terms with the 
.whites and wishing to enjoy their trade refused to gratify him. His ne^\t 
resource was in a general massacre, to take effect upon all of the scattered 
plantations on the same day. The situation of the whites favored this de- 
sign, they not only placed confidence in the words of the savages which 
had now been so long faithfully kept, but in their weakness and cowardice. 
They had extended their plantations over a space of one hundred and forty 
•miles, on both sides of James river, and made some settlements in the neigh- 
borhood of the Potomac; in short wherever a rich spot invited to the culti- 
vation of tobacco, there were they established, and an absence of neighbors 
was preferred-l The planters were careless with their arms, never using 
their swords, and their fire-arms only for game. The old law making it 
criminal to teach a savage the use of arms was forgotten, and they were 
fowlers and hunters, for many of the planters, by which means they became 
well acquainted with the use of arms and the places in which they were 
kept. One great object with the settlers, and with the company, in whose 
instructions we find it perpetually enjoined, had beenthe conversion of the 
Indians to the christian religion. To promote this pious object, they had 
always been received in the most friendly manner, they became market 
people to the planters, and they were fed at their tables, and lodged in their 
bed-chambers as friends and brothers. 

Opechancanough had renewed the treaty with governor Wyatt, and- took 
every other means in his power to avoid suspicion. He told a messenger 
about the middle of March, that the sky should fall ere he would violate the 
treaty of peace; only two days before the fatal 22nd, the English were guid- 
ed in safety and kindness through tWe forest by the unsuspected Indians, 
and a Mr. Browne who had been sent to live among them to. learn their 
language was sent safely to his friends, — nay, so Avell was the dread secret 
kept that the English boats were borrowed to transport the Indians over the 
river to consult on the '! devilish murder that ensued," and even on tJie,dg.y 
itself, as well as on the evening before, they came as' usual unarmed into 
the settlements with deer, turkies, fish, fruits and other provisions to sell, 
and in some places sat down to breakfast with the English. Tlieconcert 
and secrecy of this great plot is the more astonishing when we reflect that 
the savages were not living together as one nation, and didnot Imve for 
most purposes, unity of action, but were dispersed in little hamlets (Jontarn- 
ing from thirty to two hundred in a company; "yet they all had warning 
given them one from another in all their habitations, though far asun/ier, 
M- Vi oo ifi09 ^° ^^Gt at the day and hour appointed for the tiest ruction 
, — . ^j- ^j^g English at their several plantations ; some directed 
to. one place, some to another, all to be done at the time appointed, which 
they did accordingly; some entering their houses under color of trading, so 

_ : : 1 — -.: : — ^-,- ; • '"■;-- ■ '. .j JD » 

♦Bancroft 193 and references tliere quoted; 

tSmith II. 71. ^.i. 

} Smith, vol, 11.66. 



HISTORY OF VIRC4INIA. 569 

took their advantage ; others drawing thcni abroad under lair pretences, and 
the rest suddenly falling upon those that were at their labors." 'J'hey spared 
no age, sex, or condition, and were so sudden in their indiscriminate 
slaughter that fcw could discern the blow or weapon, which brought them 
to destruction, 'i'heir taniiliarity with the whites led them with fatal pre- 
cision to the pojnts at which they were certain to be found, and that "fatal 
morning fell under the bloody and barbarous hands of that perfidious and 
inhuman people, three hundred and forty seven men, women and children, 
principally by their own weapons." Not content with this destruction, they 
brutally defaced and mangled the dead bodies, as if they would perpetrate 
a new murder, and bore ofTthe severed portions in fiendish triumph. Those 
who had treated them with especial kindness, and conferred many benefits 
apon them, who confided so mnch in them that to the last moment they 
could not believe mischief was intended, fared no better than the rest. The 
ties of love and gratitude. the sac red rights of hospitality and reciprocal frienship. 
oaths, pledges and promises, and even the recent and solemn profession of 
fidelity to an all-merciful and omnipotent God, were broken asunder or for- 
gotten in obedience to the command of their chief for the execution of a 
great but diabolical stroke of state policy. With one and onlj^ one of all 
who had been cherished by the whites, did gratitude for their kindness and 
fidelity to his new religion prevail over his allegiance to his king, and afTec- 
tion for his people. A converted Indian who resided with a Mr. Pace, and 
who was treated by him as a son, revealed the plot to him in the night of 
the 2lst. Pace immediately secured his house and rowed himself up to 
Jamestown, where he disclosed it to the governor, by which means that 
place and all the neigboring plantations, to which intelligence could be con- 
veyed, was saved from destruction ; for the cowardly Indians when they sa.w 
the whites upon their guard immediately retreated. Some other places 
were also preserved, by the undaunted courage of the occupants, who never 
failed to beat off their assailants, if they were not slain, before their suspi- 
cions were excited. By these means was Virginia preserved from total an- 
nihilation in a single hour, by this well co»ceiv^dj,\vell concealed, and well 
executed plot of her weak and siiopie adversaries. The larger portion of 
the colony was saved; for a year after the massacre it contained two thou- 
sand five ^hundred persons; but the con?:tei nation produced by it, 
caused the adoption of a ruinous policy. Instead of marching at once bold- 
ly to meet the adversary and driving him from the country, or reducing 
him to subjection by a bloody retaliation, the colonists were huddled to- 
gether from their eighty plantations into eight, the college, manufactories 
and other works of public utility, were abandoned, and cultivation confined 
to a space almost too limited, merely for subsistence. These crowded quar- 
ters produced sickness, and some were so disheartened that they sailed for 
England. 

In England this disastrous intelligence so far from dispiriting the com- 
pany, excited their sympathies to such a degree, that it aroused them to re-' 
newed exertion, and a more obstinate determination to secure at all hazards 
a country which had cost so much blood and treasure. Supplies w-ere 
promptly despatched, and even the king was moved to the generosity of 
giving some old rusty arms from the tower, which he never meant to use. 
and promising tuilher assistance, which he never meant to reiider 

Serious discussions now took place in the courts of the company as to 
tb« policy proper to be pursued w ith the Indians, and some advocated their 
72 



571> HISTORY OF VIRGINIA, 

entire subjection, in imitation of t\w. example of the Spaniards, which poH-. 
cy would surely have been more merciful than that war of extermination 
which was carried into effect, whether by deliberate design or a system of 
temporary expedients does not appear. Smith offered the company to pro- 
tect all their planters Irom the James to the Potomac, with a permanent 
force of one hundred soldiers and thirty sailors, with one small bark, and 
means to build several shallops ; and there is no doubt but that he would 
have accomplished it, by which means the planters could have employed 
themselves much more successfully in attending to their crops, than when 
they had to keep perpetual watch, and occasionally to take up arms to de- 
fend themselves, or rnake an attack upon the enemy. Smith received for 
answer that the company was impoverished, but that he had leav« 
to carry his proposal into effect, if he could find means in the col" 
ony, and would give the company half the booty he should acquire; upon 
which answer he observes, that except some little corn, he would not give 
twenty pounds for all the booty to be made from the savages for twenty 
years. The colonists, although they could not be soon again lulled to their 
former security, speedily recovered from their recent panic, and on July of 
the same year* sallied forth with three hundred men to seize the corn and 
inflict other punishment on the Indians ; but they suflered themselves to be 
deceived by false pretences until the corn was removed from their reach so 
that they got but little ; ihe^^ ""succeeded however in burning many of 
their villages, and destroying much of their property, by which they said they 
Avere likely to suffer much during the ensuing winter. "We find, that a law 
was passed on the following sessionby the General Assembly, requiring that 
on the beginning of luly next, the inhabitants of every corporation should 
fall upon the adjoining .savages as had been done the lastj'ear; and enacting 
that those who were hurt .should be cured at the public charge, and such as 
were maimed should be maintained by the country, according totheirquality.f 
We find it also further enacted in 1630, "that the war begun upon the In- 
dians be effectually followed, and that no peace be concluded with them ; and 
that all expeditions undertaken against t hern should be prosecuted with dili^ 
gence.| This slate of fierce wa?&pe«<)iatinued to rage with unmtejrupted 
fury until a peace vvas concluded in 1632, under the administration of go- 
vernor Harvey.^ In the course of this warfare the Indians were not treat- 
ed with the same tenderness, with which they had generally been before |j the 
massacre, but their habitations, cleared lands, and pleasant sites, \yhen orice 
taken possession of, were generally retained by the victors, and- the rv^a^ 
quished forced to take refuge in the woods and marshes. 

^"Whilst tliese events were transpiring in th^ colony, an important change iji 
rgoo the character-of their government was about to take place in England. 
The company had been uusuccesslul ; the fact could no longer be denie.d. 
They had transported more than nine thousand persons, at an expense taijt 
ceeding a hundred thousand pounds, and yet in nearly eighteen years there 
\yere only about two thousand persons in the colony, and its annual exports 
did not exceed twenty thousand pounds in value. The king took advantage 

*Mr. Bancroft makes this the following year, but if he will look to the date of the 
law to which he refers, he will liiid his error: (I Hen. Stat. L., p. 1-23, — Act No. 32.) 
+ HenniBg, vol. I. p. 128.' 
tHenuiiig, vol. I. 153. 

§ Burke, vol. II. p. 37. - .. 

II See an instance tp the contrary in the case of the Apponiattucks— ante pa, 561^" 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 5fl 

of the present unfortunate state of affairs, to push his plans for the dissolu- 
tion of the company. He carefully fomented the dissentions which arose, 
and encouraged the weaker party ; which readily sought the aid of his 
powerful arm. He had long disliked the democratic freedom of their dis- 
cussions, and had of late become envious of their little profits on the trade 
of the colonists, which he felt every disposition to divert into his own cof- 
fers ; and determined to make good use of the present state of despondency 
in most of the company, and unpopularity with the public, to eflect his dt*- 
signs. Wishing however to gain his end by stealth, and secret influence 
ir2^ with their officers, rather than by open violence, he again tried his 
strength in the nomination of four individuals from whom the com- 
pany were to choose their treasurer. But he was again signally defeated, 
and the earl of Southampton re-elected by a large majority, the king's can- 
didates receiving only eight votes in seventy. 

Failing in this, it was manifest that the company was not to be brow- 
beaten into submission to his dictation, and he only considered how the 
charter of the company migiit be revoked, with the least violation to the 
laws of England. To efTeet this with plausible decency some allegation of 
improper conduct was to be made, and some proof ferreted out. The first 
of these objects was effected by two long petitions by members of the Roy- 
al faction in the company, setting forth at full length every evil which had 
accrued to the colony, from its earliest establishment to that hour, and charg- 
ing all upon the mismanagement of the company. For many of these 
charges there was too much truth, and the faults of the company could be 
easily seen after the accidents had happened, but whether they were not 
necessarily incidental to the situation of things in Virginia, or they might 
have been avoided by the king or a corporation diiferently constituted, are 
questions difficult to answer; but these petitions contained, mingled with 
these truths, a great proportion of glaring falsehood as to the physical and 
moral condition of the colony. They had been prepared and presented 
with great secrecy; but the company contrived, to obtain copies ofthen?i| 
arnl refuted their slanders by the most irvef/agiblefeslimouy, ma.ny facts Hew- 
ing in thecognziance of the membtfrs'tlwiinl^el'e^Ptand others established by 
the evidence of respectable persons who had long resided in Virginia. 
This mass of evidence was laid before the king, in the vain hope, that he 
might be induced to disregard the petitions; but part of his object wa.s now 
gained, the charges were made, the next step was to procure a semblance of 
proof; for this purpose in a few days, m answer to the prayer in one of the 
petitions, he issued a commission under the great seal, to seven persons to 
enquire into all matters respecting Virginia, from the beginning of its set- 
tlement. • . 

The better to enable these commissioners to conduct their investiga- 
tions, by an order of the privy council, all the records of the com' 
pany of whatsoever nature were seized, the deputy treasurer was imprison- 
ed, and on the arrival of a ship from Virginia, all the papers on board were 
inspected. ■ . ■; ■■ ■■ • -■ ■ 

The report of these commissioners hasnever transpired, but if was with- 
„ K Ifto^l out doubt,. such as the king wished and expected; for by an 
October, Ib-d, qj.j|^^ ;,., council he made known, that having taken into his 
princely consideration, the distressed state of Virginia, occasioned by the 
ill-government of the company, he had resolved by a new charter, to ap- 
point a governor and twelve assistants to reside in England; and a govern- 



578 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

or and twelve assistants to reside in Virginia; the former to be nominated 
by his majesty in council, the latter to be nominated by the governor and 
assistants in England, and be appointed by the king in council; and that 
all proceedings should be subject to the royal direction. This was a return 
at one step to the charter of 1606. The company was called together to 
consider upon this arbitrary edict, under an alternative similar to the one 
given to witches upon their trial; if they could switn with a heavy weight 
about their necks, they were burned as guilty, if they sunk and drowned 
they were acquitted; the king gave the company the privilege of accepting 
his proposition and resigning its charter, or of refusing and having the 
charter annulled. 

The company wliich had refused to gratify the king in the choice of iis 
officers, was less disposed to comply Avith this suicidal requisition. The 
astounding order was read over three several times before they could con- 
vince themselves that their ears informed them correctly of its purport. At 
length the vote was taken and one hundred and twelve votes were against 
the relinquishment, and twenty-six, the precise number of the king's fac- 
tion, in favor of it. The company asked further time for a more deliberate 
decision, as there had not been sufficient notice, few members were present, 
and it was one of those matters of importance which could not be decided, 
by the teims of their charter, except at a regular quarterly meeting; but 
the council would not listen to the proposition, ordering the company -to 
meet again in three days, and give a clear, direct and final answer. In 
obedience to this order an extraordinary court w^as summoned, and the ques- 
tion of surrender submitted to their consideration, upon which only nine of 
the seventy present voted in its favor; an answer was returned that they 
would defend their charter. The knowledge of these proceedings transpi- 
ring produced a shock to the credit of the company, which palsied for the 
time the spirit of commercial enterpri.se; to remedy this evil the privy 
council declared that the private property of every one should be protected, 
and secured by additional guarantees if necessary; that tliey should pro- 
ceed with their regular businessj and all ships bound for Virginia should 
sail. To endeavor to diseever gomjetkisag more authentic against the com- 
pany than his secret conclave of commissioners had yet been able to obtain, 
Oct 24 IP'^"^ the king now thought proper to send John Harvey, John 
' "^ ' Pory, Abraham Piersey, Samuel Matthews, and John Jef- 
ferson, as commissioners to Virginia. "To make more particular and dili- 
gent enquiry touching divers matters, which concerned the state of Virgi- 
nia, and in order to facilitate this enquiry, the governor and council of Vir- 
ginia were ordered to assist the commissioners in this scrutiny, by all their 
knowledge and influence."* 

The commissioners early in the ensuing year arrived in the colony. In 
1624 ^^^ °^ '^'^ controversy between the king and the company, the colony 
not supposing its chartered rights were likely to be violated by either 
party, and feeling little interest in the discussion of rights which belonged 
entirely to others, Avhich they never supposed that they were to possess j 
had acted with entire neutrality, and cared little whether they were to be un- 
der the general superintendence of the courts of the company, or a council 
chosen by the king, so long as they could regulate their own affairs by their 
own General Assembly.f 

♦ Burk I. 273^ ~ '■ '■ ~ 

tThe king and company quarrelled, and by a mixture of law and force, the latter 

were ousted of all their rights, without retribution, after having expended £100,000 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 573 

In such a mood would the commissiDners have found the colony and 
General Assembly, had they not procured copies of the two slanderous pe- 
titions, in spite of all the precautions of the king and the secrecy of liis 
council and commissioners. Althouirh they felt little interest in the con- 
troversy, they felt great interest in defending themselves from defamation, 
and their country from false and malicious representations, well calculated 
to disparage and depreciate it in the estimation of those, with whom they 
F h 90 iro4 wished it to stand foirest. In six days from their meeting 
teo. M, lb:.4, ^j^^^ j^^^j pj.j,j^^red spirited and able answers to these peti- 
tions; declarmg in their preamble, "that they holding it a sin against God 
and their own sufierings, to permit the world to be abused with false re- 
ports, and to give to vice the reward of virtue,— They, in the name of the 
whole colony of Virginia, in their General Assembly met, many of them 
having been eye-witnesses and sufferers in those times, had. framed out of 
their duty to their country, and love of truth the following answer given to 
the praises of Sir T. Smith's government, in the said declaration." 

They next drafted a petition to the king, which with a letter to the privy 
council and the other papers, were committed to the care of Mr. John Pounr 
tis, a member of the council, who was selected to go to England to repre-r 
sent the general interests of the colony before his majesty and the privy 
council; and whose expenses were provided for by a tax of four pounds of 
the best merchantable tobacco for every male person sixteen years of age, 
who had been in the country for one year. This gentleman unfortunately 
died on his passage. The "letter to the privy council marks very strongly 
the value which they set even at that early day upon the right of legisla- 
ting for themselves, the principal prayer in it, being "that the governors 
may not have absolute power, and that they might still retain the liberty of 
popular assemblies, than which, nothing could more conduce to the public 
satisfaction, and public utility." 

A contest of wit.'* was commenced between the commissioners and thp 
Assembly. The former under various pretexts withheld from the latter a 
a sight of their commission, and the other papers with which they had beer\ 
charged, and the governor and the Awrem-My thottghi proper to preserve an 
equal mystery as to their own proceedings. In this dilemma Mr. PoTy, 
who was one of the commissioners, and who had been secretary to the 
company, and discharged from his post for betraying its councils to the e<iyl 
of Warwick; now suborned Edward Sharpless, a clerk of the council, to 
give him copies of the proceedings of that body and of the Assembly. 
This treachery was discovered, and the clerk was punished with the loss of 
his ears; whilst an account was sent home to the company, expressive of. 
the greatest abhorrence at the baseness and treacheiy of Pory. The com- 
iwissioners finding their secret manceuvering defeated, next endeavored, by 
the most artful wheedling, to induce the Assembly to petition the crown for 
a revocation of the charter. In reply to this the Assembly asked for their 

in establishing the colwny, without the -smallest aid from the^overnment. King 
James suspended their powers by proclartalion of July 15, 1624j-and Charles I. took 
the government into his own hands. Both sides had their partisans in the cofony"; 
but in truth the people of the colony in general thought themselves little coneerhed 
in the dispute. There being three parties interested in these several charters; what 
passed between the first and second it was thought could not afiect the third. If the 
king seized on the powers of the company, they only passed into other hands, without 
mcrease or diminution, while the rights of the" people remained as they were. Jeffer- 
son's Not«s on Va., pa. 15-2-3. 



574 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

authority to make 'such a proposition, which of course they could not give 
without betraying their secret instructions, and were compelled to answer 
the requisition in general terms and professions. The Assembly took no 
farther notice of the commissioners, but proceeded with their ordinary le- 
gislation. 

Thirty-five acts of this Assembly have been preserved to the present 
time, and exhibit with great strength, the propriety and good sense with 
which men can pass laws for ihe regulation of their own interests and con- 
cerns. One of these acts establishes at once in the most simple and intelli- 
gible language the great right of exemption from taxation without represen- 
tation; it runs in these words: — "The governor shall not lay any taxes or 
impositions upon the colony, their lands or commodities, other way than by 
the authority of the General Assembly, to be levied and employed as the 
said Assembly shall appoint." — By a subsequent act it was declared tliat 
the governor should not withdraw the inhabitants from their private labors 
to any service of his own, upon any color whatsoever, and in case the 
public service required the employment of many hands, before the holding* 
of a General AssemblJ^ he was to order it, and the levy of men was to be 
made by the governor and whole body of the council in such manner as. 
would be least burthensome to the people and most free from partiality. To 
encourage good conduct, the old planters who had been in the colony 
since the last arrival of (xates, were exempted from taxation or mili- 
tary duty. Many acts of general utility were passed; the members of 
the Assembly were privileged from arrest; lands were to be surveyed 
and their boundaries recorded, which is no doubt the origin of our highly 
beneficial recording statutes; vessels arriving were prohibited from break- 
ing their cargoes until they had reported themselves; inspectors of tobacco 
were established in every settlement; the use of sealed weights and mea- 
sures was enforced; provision was made for paying the public debt, "brought 
on by the late troubles;" no person was, upon the rumor of supposed change. 
and alteration, to presume t^:* be disobedient to the present government, or 
servants to their private ^^cers^: masters or overseers, at their uttermost 
perils. ■ ' :• . /-: 

Wise regulations were lilcewise made to prevent surprises by the In^ 
dians; every house was to be fortified with palisadoes; no man should go 
or send abroad without a party sufficiently armed, or to work without their 
arms, with a ceutinel oyer them; the inhabitants were forbidden to go 
aboard ships or elsewhere in such numbers as to endanger the saiety of 
their plantations; every planter was to take care to have sufficient arms and 
ammunition in good order; watch was to be kept by night; and no planter 
was to sufTer powder to be expended in amusement or entertainments. ■ To 
promote corn-planting, and ensure plenty of provision, no limit was fixed 
to its price; viewers were appointed to see that every man planted a strfB«? 
eiency for his family, and all trade with the savages for corn was strictly 
prohibited. - ;; 

Having thus given a specimen of colonial spirit, and colonial legislatibn, 
Hve return to the little intrigues of James, who was striving by every means 
in his power to become possessed of the control of the colony; partly to 
gratify his love of arbitrary authority and of money, and partly to gratify 
his royal self-complacency by framing a code of laws, for a people Witri 
vvhose character and condition he was utterly unacquainted, and who from 
the specimens recently given appeared to be fully competent to the manage- 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. ^5 

mont of their own allairs, witlioul the dictalioii or advice of this royal g-uar- 
dian; who while he displayed the crafi without the talent of a Phili|i, aspired 
to the character of a Solon. The recent acts ol the king' led to a solemn 
council of the company on the stale of their affairs, in which they confirm- 
ed by an overwhehning; majority the ])revious determination to defend their 
charter, and asked for a restitution of their papers for the purpose ot pre- 
paring their defence. This request was pronounced reasonable by the at- 
torney g-eneral, and complied with. Whilst these papers were in the hands 
of the company, they were transcribed, and the copy has been fortunately 
preserved, and presents a faithful record of many portions of Virginia his- 
tory which it would be otherwise impossible to elucidate.* 

The king had caused a quo warranto to be issued against the company 
N to ir9i soon after the appointment of his commissioners to go to 
' ' Virginia, and the cause was tried in the King's Bench, in 

Trinity Term of 1G24. A cause which their Royal master had so much 
at heart could not long be doubtful with judges entirely dependent upon liis 
Avill for their places; it is even credibl}^ reported that this important case, 
Avhereby the rights of a powerful corporation were divested, and the possi- 
bility of remuneration for all of their trouble and expense forever cut ofT, 
was decided upoii a mere technical question of special ple?kding!* 

In the mean time the conunissianers had returned, and reported very fa-' 
vorably of the soil and climate ol Virginia, but censuring deeply the con- 
duct of the compaijy, — -recommending the government of the original char- 
ter of 1606, and declaring that a body so large and so democratic in its 
forms as the company, could never persevere in a consistent course of poli- 
cyy but must veer about as the different fiictions should prevail. In this it 
must be admitted that there w^as much truth, and all hopes of profit having* 
for some time expired, and the company only being kept up by the distin-- 
guished men of its members, from patriotic motives and as an instrument 
of power for thwarting the king, in which capacity its present unpopulari- 
ty rendered it of little use,- — it was now suffered to expire under the judi-- 
cjal edict, without a groan. The expiration of i lie charter brought little 
immediate charge to the actual government of the colony, — a large com--. 
mittee was formed by the king, consisting principally of his privy council, 
to discharge the functions of the extinct company; Sir Francis Wyatt was • 
reappointed governor, and he and his council only empowered to govern 
"as fully and amply as any g'overnor and council resident there, at any tirrie- 
within the space of five years last past:" — which was the exact period of - 
their representative government. The king in appointing the council irt- 
Virginia, refused to appoint embittered partisans of the court faction, but- 
formed the government of men of moderation. 

So leaving Virginia free, whilst his Royal Highness is graciously pleas- 
edrtx) gratify his own vanity in preparing a new code of laws to regulate 
her aflfairs, w^e pass on to anew chapter. ' - * 

*Burk, pa. 374-5. Stith compiled his history principally from tliese docuipents. 

t Note to Bancroft, pa. 207. Stith, pa. 329, 330, doubts" if judgment was passed. 
The doubt may be removed. '■ Before the end of the same term, a judgment was de- 
clared by the Lord Chief Juitice Ley, against the company and their charier, only 
upon Jailer or iiiistake i it, pleading." See a Short Collection of the most Remarkable 
Passages from the Original to the Dissolution of the Virginia Company. London, 
1651, pa. 15. See also Hazard V. I. pa. 19; Chalraer's, pa. 62 ; Proud's Pennsylvania, 
V. 1. pa. 107. 






576 



CHAPTER IV. 



PnOGRESS OF THE COLONY FROM THE DISSOLUTION OF THE LONDON 
COMPANY, TO THE BREAKING OUT OF BACON's REBELLION lt<i 1G75. 

Accession of Charles I., — Tobacco trade, — Yeardley governor, — his cord- 
mission favorable — his death arid character, — Lord Baltimore.^ s rec£f- 
lioii, — State of religion, — legislation upon the subject, — Invitation t>o 
the Puritans to settle on Delaware bdy, — Harvey governor,— Erro-r 
with regard to his early administration, — Dismemberment of the colo- 
ny^ — Grant of Carolina and Maryland, — probable cause of discontent, 
^-Harvey deposed — restored, — Wyatt governor, — Acts of the Legisla- 
iwe im.properly censured, — Berkeley governor, — Indian relations,— 
Ope-.hancanough prisoner — his death, — C/mnge of governmeniin Eng- 
land, — Fleet and army sent to reduce Virginia, — Preparation for de- 
fence by Berkeley, — Agreement entered into between the colony and the- 
commissioners of the commonwealth, — Indian hoslU'Uics, — Matthews 
elected governor, — Difficulties between the governor arul the legislature 
— adjusted, — State of the colony and its trade, — Commissioners se%t 
to England, — The Restoration, — General legislation. 

The dissolution of tlie London Company was soon followed by the death 
A/i u or IP.-)- 0^ James, and the accession of his son Charles I. The 
March 27, lb'.,;). j.j^^ troubled himself little about the political rights and 
privileges of the colony, and suffered them to grow to the strength of estab- 
lished usage by his wholesome neglect; whilst he was employed in obtaining 
a monopoly of their tobacco. This valuable article, the use of which ex- 
tended with such unaccountable rapidity, had early attracted the avidity of 
king James. The 10th article of the charter of 1609 had exempted the 
company, their agents, factors and assignees from the payment of all sub- 
sidies and customs in Virginia for the space of one and twenty years, and 
from all taxes and impositions forever, upon any goods imported thither, 
or exported thence into any of the realms or dominions of England ; ex- 
tiept the five per cent usual by the ancient trade of merchants.* But not- 
withstanding the express words of this charter, a tax was laid by the farm- 
ers of the customs in the year 1620 upon the tobacco of the colony ; which 
.was not only high of itself, but the more oppressive because it laid the 
same tax upon Virginia and Spanish tobacco, when the latter sold in the 
market for three times the price of the former. In the same year, the mmf 
prince was guilty of another violation of the charter in forcing the cm*- 
pan y to bring all of their tobacco into England; when he found that a 
portion of their trade had been diverted into Holland, and establishments 
made at MiddJeburg and Flushing. The charters all guaranteed to the 
colony all of the rights, privileges, franchises, and immunities of native 
born Englishmen, and this act of usurpation was the first attempt on the 
part of the mother country to monopolize the trade of the colony. The 
next year the king, either "his avidity being unsatisfied, or not liking the 

* Henning St. at L. v. I. p. 94. 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA 577 

usurped and prccaiious tenure hy which Jiis gains were held, invingled the 
Virginia and Soiner's Isle's company into an arrangement, by which they 
were to become the sole importers ol'tobacco; being bound however to import 
not less than forty nor moretlian sixty thousand pounds of Spanish varinas, 
and paying to the king in addition to the six pence duty before paid, one- 
ihird part of all the tobacco landed, in the realms. The king on bis part 
was to prohibit all other iniporlation and all planting in England and Ire- 
land; and t\MM which was already planted was to be confiscated. 

When the company petitioned Parliament to prolong its existence in 
opposition to the efforts of the king, titey failed, — but that portion of their 
petition which asked for the exclusive monopoly of tobacco to Virginia 
„ oa K'oi ^""^^ ^^^^ Somer Isles, was granted, and a royal proclamation 

p. ^ , -)~ . jj^g^^j accordmgly ; whether this exclusiveness was under- 
stood with the liuiitation in I he previous contract between the king and the 
two companies, it is impossible to say, as the original documents are not 
accessible to the writer.* But the probabilities are greatly against the 
limitation. 

Charles had not been long on the throne before he issued a proclamatiort 
A "10 tfi'-:>=5 t^onfirming the exclusive privileges of the Virginia and 

P"^* ' "" ' Somer Isles tobacco, and prohibiting a violation of their 
monopoly, under penalty of (-ensure by the dread star chamber. This was 
soon followed by another in which he carefully act forth the forfeituie of 
their charter by the company, and the innnediate dependance. of the colony 
upon the crown ; concluding by a plain intimation of his intention to be- 
come their sole factor. 

Soon after this a rumor reached the colonies that an individual was in 
treaty with the king for an exclusive contract for tobacco, one of the con- 
ditions of which would have led to the importation of so large an amount 
of Spanish tobacco as would have driven (hat of the colonists from tlie 
market ; the earnest representations of the colony on this subject caused an 
abandonment of the scheme, but. in return the colony was obliged to excuse 
itself from a charge of trade with the lower countries, and promise to fra<fe 
only with England.! But (he kind's eagv^ines^ lor the poesession of this 
monopoly was not to be baffled thus; he made a formal proposition to tlie 
colony for their exclucive trade, in much the same language as one trades- 
man would use to another, and desired that the General Assembly might 
be convened for the purpose of con.7idering his proposition. The answer 
M h OA ifios ^y ^^^ General Asseaiblv to this propesitipn is preserved. 
March ^b, lbZ6. j^ ^^^ ^^^^^^^^ ^^^ strong but respectful language the injury 
which had been done the- planters by the mere report of an intention to 
subject then trade to a monopoly ; they state the rea^nnr- for not engaging 
la the production of the other staples mentioned by the king ;" and dissetW 
from his proposition as to the purcha-e of their tobacco, demandinc: a higher 
price and better terms of admic-.-if^n, in excb ■ ' - '! :■ lii-ivr monopo- 

ly which he wi.shed.J 

In the mean time the death of his father i-uati'.d it necesary for Sir 

.r-cf, Francis Wyalt to return to Europe to attend to his private affairs, 

and the king appointed Sir George Yeardley his successor. This 

♦ Burk, 1. 391, and Bancroft I, 206 -q'fotiDjf^'Hb, Cobbpri sParli-aTnent Hist ^inrl 
Hazard. 
+ Burk's Ancient rprf^rd; BurU V^ ,' 19 

JHening. vol. 1 I'U 

73 



SfB HISTORY Of VIRGINIA. 

was ilsc'll a sufllck'tit gnarantee of the political privileges of the colony, as 
he had had the honor of calling the first colonial assembly: but in addition 
to this his powers were lik-e those of his predecessor, limited to the execu- 
tive authority exercised by the governor \vilhin five years last past. These 
circumstances taken in connection v.ith the express .sanction given by 
Charles to the power of a Legislative Assembly with regard to his prof- 
fered contract for tobacco sufficiently prove that he had no design of inter- 
fering with the highly-prized privilege of self government enjoyed by the 
colonists: and fully justifies the General Assembly in putting the most fivor- 
ablo construction upon the king's ambiguous words annonncing his deter- 
mination to preserve inviolate all the "former interests" of Virginia, which 
occur in his letter of 1G27.* • ■ 

Thus were those free principles established in Virginia, for which' the 
mother country had to struggle for someliftie longer ; the colony rose iri 
the estimation of the public, and a thousand new emigrants arrived in one 
year; which of course much enhanced the price of provision. 

Death now closed the career of Yeardley. The character of his ad- 
Nov 14 16'>7 '^^i^'^t^'^^io" IS exhibited in the history of the colony ; and 
' " ■ the e&timate placed upon his character by those who were 
best accpiainted wi'th his conduct, and who were little disposed to flatter 
undeservedly either the living or the dead, is to be found in a eulogy Avrit- 
f en by the government ol Vifginia to the privy council, announcing his 
death. In obedience to the king's commission to the council, they elected 
Francis West governor, the day after the burial of Yeardley. He held 
the commission muW the 5th of March 1628, when designing to sail for 
England, John Pott was chosen to succeed him.f Pott did not continue 
long in ofKce, for the king, when the death of Yeardley w^as known, issued 
his commission to Sir John Harvey, who arrived sometime between Octo- 
ber 1628 and March 1629. 

In the interval between the death of Yeardley and the arrival of Har- 
vey, occurred the first act of religious intolerance, which defile the amials 
of Virginia. ' • . 

Lord Baltimore, a c;?f^'CTO; lyblileitt&ft;" allured by the rising repntati oil of 
the colony, abandoned his settlement in Newfoundland and came to Vir- 
^^inia; where instead of being received with the cheerful Ave 1 come of' a 
friend and a brother, he was greeted with the oath of allegiance anrl su- 
premacy, the latter of which it was well known his conscience would' hot 
allow him to take. ; ^ .-/ 

Much allowance is to tie made for this trespass upon religious freedom, 
before we attribute it to a wilful violation of natural liberty. "The times and 
circumstances ought to be considered. ' The colony had grown into life 
while the violent struggles between the Romish and Protestant churches 
were yet rife. The iincient tyranny and oppression of the Holy See Were 
yet fresh in the niemory of all, its cruelties and "harsh intolerance in 'Eng- 
land were recent, and yet continuing in the countries in which its votaries 
had the control of the civil government. The light of Protestantism' itself 
was the first dawn of religious freedona, and the thraldom in which man- 
kind had b©&n held by Catholic fetters for so many ages was too terrible, 



* Burk, V. 2. pa. 18. 

+ Burk, V. 2 p.- 23. ^Hening v. I. p. 4 and ]M. Burk v, II. p. 33. is at a loss to ac- 
count tor the fate ol West. .:.Jl .: 



HISTORY. OI7 VIRGINIA. 579 

to risque the possibility of their acquiring any authority in government. 
Eye-witnesses of the severities of Mary were yet alive in England, and 
idoubtU^ss many of the colonists had iiearJ fearful relations of the religious 
sufferings during her reign, probably some had suflered in their own fami- 
lies; most of them had emigrated whilst the excitement against the Papists 
was still raging in England with its greatest fury, and continually kept in 
faction by the discovery or pretended discovery of Popish plots to obtain 
possession of the government. Was it wonderful then that a colony which 
with a remarkable uniformii3r of sentiment professed a dillerent religion, 
should be jealous of a faith which sought by every means in its power to 
obtain supreaje control, and used that control for the extermination, by the 
harshest moans, of all other creeds I 

. The colony in Virginia was planted when the incestuous and monstrous 
connection of church and state had not been severed" in any civilized coun- 
try on the globe; — at a period when it would have been heresy to attempt 
such a divorce, because it required all the aid of the civil power 10 give 
inen sufficient freedoui to "proft;ss and by argument to maintain" any oiher 
creed than one, — and that one the creed of Rome. The anxiety of ihe 
British government upon this subject, so far from being unnatural was 
Iiighly laudable, since all its efforts were necessary.jo sustain its new-born 
power of professing its own creed. The awful effect" br"OatH6iic-§upre- 
jnacy, displayed in a neighboring kingdom, afforded a Avarning too terrible^ 
to be easily forgotten, and it would have been as unwise to allow the 
Catholics equal civil privileges at that daj^ as it would be' impolitic and 
unjust now to exclude them. We find this regard for .religious freedom, 
(for emancipation from the Pope's authority was a great step in religious 
freedom.) carefully fostered in the colonies. Every charter required the 
establishment of the church of England, and authorises the fnfliction of 
punishment for drawing off the people from their religion^. as a matter 6t 
equal importance with their allegiance. For at that period, before any im- 
portant differences between the Protestants had arisen, when but two reli- 
gions were struggling for existence, not to be of the church of England 
was to be a Papist, and not to aclcnowledge the. secular supremacy of the 
King, was to bow to the authority of the Pope. The catholics as the only 
subject of terror, were the only subjects of intolerance; no sutficient num- 
ber of dissenters had availed themselves of the great example of Protes- 
tantism in rejecting any creed which did not precisely satisfy their con- 
sciences, to become formidable to mother church ; nor had she gro.wn 50 
strong and haughty in her new.-fledged power as to level her blows at any 
but her first great antagonist, t 

The colony in Virginia consi.^ted of church of England men, and mapy 
of the first acts of their Legislature relate to provision for the churjcji. 
.Glebe lands were early laid off^ and livings provided. The ministers were 
considered not as pious and charitable individuals, but as officers of the 

* The massacre of the Protestancs by the Catholics on St. Bartholomew's day,jn 
France, in 1572. 

t The persecution of the Puritans was an exception to this. Thpy were persecu- 
ted with considerable rigor, but their numbers were small, consisting: only of-two 
churches, and most of those who then existed went to Holland with their leaders 
John Robmsou and William Brewster, in 1G07 and 8, and settled in Am.sterdam, 
whence they removed to Ley den in IGOO, whence they sailed to America in 16:30, 
and landed in Cape Cod Harbor on the 7ih of November, find settled Plymouth on 
the 31st of December foUowiii-?. — Holmes' Am. An. 156 — 203. 



580 HISTORY t>F VIRGINIA: 

state, bound to promote the true flaith and sound morality by authority of 
the community, by which they were paid and to which they were held 
responsible for the performance of their duty. The very first act of As- 
sembly, which was passed, required that in every settlement in which the 
people met to worship C4od, a house should be appropriated exclusively to 
that purpose ; and a place paled in to be used solely as a burying ground; 
the second act imposed the penalty of a pound of tobacco for absence from 
divine service on Sunday without sufhcient excuse, and fifty pounds for a 
month's absence ; the third required uniformity, as near as might be, with 
the canons in England; the fourth enjoined the observance of the holy 
days, (adding the 22d March, the day of the Massacre to the number) dis- 
pensing with some 'by reason of our necessities ;' the fifth punished any 
minister absenting himself from his church above two months in the year 
with forfeiture of half of his estate, — and four months, his whole estate 
and curacy; the sixth punished disparagement of a minister; the seventh 
prohibited any man from disposing of his tobacco or corn until the minis- 
ter's portion was first paid.* This sacred duty discharged, the Assembly 
next enact salutary regulations fur the state. We find at the session of 
1629 the act requiring attendance at church on the Sabbath specially en- 
forced, and a clause add'-^ forbidding profanation of that day by travelling 
pr v/crir" also an act declaring that all those who work in the ground shall 
pay tithes to the minister. We find requisition of uniformity with the 
canons of the English church not only repeated in every new commission 
from England, but re-enacted by the Legislature of 1629-30, and in 16S1-2, 
as well as in the several revisals of the laws. In the acts of 1631-2, we 
find many acts conveying the idea advanced of ministers being considered 
public officers; and churchwardens required to take an oath to present 
ofTences against decency or morality, which made them in eftect censors, of 
the public morals. In these acts it is made the duty of ministers to teach 
children the Lord's piayer, commandments, and the articles of faith; also 
to attend all persons dangerously sick, to instruct and comfort them in their 
distress; to keep registers of christening, marriages and deaths; and. to 
preserve in themselves strict inaral conclu,ct, as an advancement to religion 
and an example to others. We find also frequent acts passed providing for 
the payment of the ministers, untilthe session of 1657-8, when church- 
and state seem to have been effectually divorced; for though no act of re- 
ligious freedom was passed, but all were still expected, rather than com- 
pelled, to conform to the church of England, yet the compulsory pay-m^rrt 
of ministers was abandoned, and all matters relating to the church were 
left entirely to the control of the people. f 

From the review which we have given of the religious condition of 
England and the colony, it must be mEinifest that the tender of . the oath of. 
supremacy to Lord Baltimore was not only a religious but a civil duty i»; 
the council, which they could by no means have omitted without a viola- 
tion of their own oaths, laws and charters. But if any further ptoof AveYe 
necessary, to show that it flowed from this source and not from a dispose 
tion to religious intolerance, — it is afforded by the liberal invitation given 
in the instructions to Captain Bass to the Puritans who had settled at New 
Plymouth, to desert their cold and barren soil and come and settle upon 
Delaware Bay, which was in the limits of Virginia.| . ' 

* Hening, v. 1. p. 121-4. 1 1st ITening, 433 

t Burk, v. II. p. 35, OH autlioiitv of ancient records. 



HISTORY OF VfFJOTNlA. 581 

Ilarvej' mot lu's first Gfiierul Assembly in Marrh, and its acts as those 
ipon of several succeding' sessions, only consist of the usual business acts of 
the colony. We liave now approached a period in our history, upon 
which the few scattered and glimmering lights which exist, have rather served 
to mislead than to guide historians. It is a period replete with charges made 
bv historians, of the most heinous character against the governor, with no 
evidence upon record to support them. The truth is that Sir John Harvey 
was deposed and sent home by the colony for some improper conduct, but 
what tliat was, does not fully appear, and historians Seem to have thougiit 
it their duty to supply the defect in the record, by abusing his administra- 
tion as arbitrary and t3'rannical from the lirst; the charge is without evi- 
dence, and every probability is against its truth. During the whole of his 
administration the General Assembly met and transacted their business as 
usual. The fundamental laws which they had passed to which we have 
before referred, restraining the powers of the governor, and asserting the 
powers of the Assembly, were passed again as of course. There could 
manilestly be no oppression from this source. The General Assembly or- 
dered the building of forts, made the contracts, provided the payments, pro- 
vided garrisons and soldiers for the field when necessary, and disbanded 
them when the occasion for their services had ceased.* The Assembly and 
the soldiers were planters and they could be little disposed to oppress them- 
selves, their families and friends. The only evidence which exists against 
Harvey is the fact of his being deposed, and sent home with commissioners 
to complain o[ his conduct to the king, but this did not occur until IG35, 
after the extensive grants had been made to Lord Baltimore and others, 
which dismembered the colony, and were so displeasing to the planters; and 
we shall see that aid or connivance in these grants were the probable 
causes of Harvey's unpopularity. Burke supports his charge of attempted 
speculation and tyranny, upon the fact that the assembly of 1G31, provideiJl 
against the raising or expending of money, or levying men without the 
consent of the assembly ; but this was a mere re-enactment of the laws of 
1 623-4, which we have seen, and which were passed undei the popular admin- 
istration of Wyalt, and seem to have been very justly looked upon by the legis- 
lature as fundamental laws.f The same remark applies to the provision of 
security for the B u rgesses from arrest, — that was provided in the first set of 
laws of which we have any record. Since Burke has committed such an 
error, whilst he finds great fault with those who went before him, it will be 
unnecessary here to notice the wild and unfounded speculations in which 
his predecessors indulged. ;[: 

♦ 1 Hening 140, 1, 3, 3. 150, 130. 171. 2, 5, 7, 9, 180. 202. 

tThe.se frequent repetitions so far from being a special blow at Harvej', was a 
mere matter of course, " it was customary too to repeal all lormer laws at each ses- 
sion, and either re-enact them in the very same words of the act repealed, or with 
such amendments as experience might suggest." Hening, preface, p. VI. 

{Robertson evidently does not perceive the distinction between taxing the produce 
of the colony upon its arrival in England, which they could not prevent, and laying 
taxes on them at home to which their Icgi.slature never would lend its sanction, or the 
people peaceably submit. He also includes in his censure the popular Yeardley, as 
suppressing those very assemblies which he was the first to establish, and which eulo- 
gised him after his death, — He says, " from the tenor of the king's commission, as 
well as from the known spirit of his policy, it is apparent, that he interKlcil to vest 
every power of government, botli legislative and executive in the governor and coun- 
cil, without recourse to the representatives of the people, as possessing a right to enact 
laws for the community, or to inipo.se ta.\es upon it." How can this be said of the 
commission referring to the executive authoriry of the " five years last past" during^ 
which the Assembly had ruled every thingl 



582 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

flic first act of tyranny towards the colony which we find recorded 
against Charles, was his grant in 1630 to Sir Robert Heath of a large por- 
tion of the lands of the colony ; commencing at the 36th degree of latitude^ 

" Yeardly and his council, who seem to have been fit instrumenis for carr5ing this 
system ot" arbitrary rule into execution, did not fail to put such a construction on the 
words of their commission as was most favorable to their own jurisdiction. During 
a greater part ot Charles's reign, Virginia knew no other law than the will of the so- 
vereign. Statutes M'ere published, and taxes imposed, without once calling the rep- 
resentatives of the people C„ authorize them by their sanction. At the same time that 
♦he people were bereaved of political rights which they deemed essential to freemen 
and citizens, tht ir private property was violently invaded. A proclamation was is- 
siied, by which under pretexts equally absurd and frivolous, they were prohibited from 
selling tobacco to any person but certain commissioners appointed by the king to buy 
it on his account." Robertson's Virginia, p. 107, 8. Again, p. 100, he says " the 
murmurs and complaints which such a system of administration excited, were aug- 
mented by the vigour with which Sir John Harvey, who succeeded Yeardly iji the 
government of the colony, enforced every act of power. Rapacious, unfeeling and 
haughty, he added insolence to oppression, and neither regarded the sentiments, nor 
listened to the remonstrcvuces of the people under his command. The colonists, far 
from the seat of government and overawed by authority derived from a royal com- 
missioD, submitted long to his tyranny and exactions. Their patience was at last ex- 
hausted, and in a transporl of 'popular rage they seized their gorcrnor and sent him s, 
prisoner to England, accompanied by two of their number," &c. To say nothing 
where there is no authority for saying anything, is not only excusable, but praise- 
worthy, to give in such cases ingenious conjectures as such may be useful, but to pre- 
sent a tissue of ctinjeclures as facts cannot be excused in an}' one, and the le.ss in Dr. 
Robertson, as his high character would stamp them wifli an authority which few oth- 
ers could give. Judge Marshall unfortunately copies Robertson verbatim, thus show; 
ing at once that one great mind has been mislead by his standing as -a writer, to take 
Jhat as truth which is not only unfounded, but contradicted by well established f^rts. 
As long as Robertson had Smith and Stith to guide him, he is very good authority, 
but when he is left by them he is at sea. We will conclude this note by a quotation 
pf an opposite character from a judicious and laborious modem writer. Ba.ncroft, p. 
215, after asserting that the colony enjoyed during this season, represented as so op- 
pressive, an " independanl colonial legislation," he appends the IblloAving note: "as 
an oppqsite statement has received the sanction, not of Oldmixon, Chalmers and Ru-» 
pertson only, but of Marshall and of Story : (See Story's Commentaries, v.. I. p. 28, 
f without the slighest ellbrt to convene a colonial assembly,") I deem it necessary- to 
state that many of the statttte.S'OfVM'guiia, under Harvey" still exist, and that though 
piany others are lost, the firstvoluine of Hening's Statutes at Large proves, beyond a 
auestion, that assemldies were convened at least as often as follows: 
■ 1G30, March, H. v. I. p. 147, 153. 

" April, ibid, 2.57, 

1032, February, ibid, 153,177. 

l(;32, Sept., ibid, 178, 202. 



1(533, 


February, 


ibid. 


202, 


209. 


" 


August, 


ibid, 


209, 


222. 


1031, 




ibid. 


223. 




1035, 




ibid, 


223. 




1030, 




ibid, 


229. 




1037, 




ibid. 


227. 




1039, 




ibid, 




230. 


1010, 




ibid. 


208. 




1041, 


June, 


ibid. 


259. 


202. 


1G42, 


January, 


ibid. 


207.' 




'" 


April, 


ibid. 


230. 




(< 


June, 


ibid, 


209 





•Corisidering how imperfect are the early records, it is surprising thatso considerable 
a list can be established. The instructions to Sir William Berkeley do not first order 
assemblies; but speak of them as if a thing established. At an adjourned session of 
Berkeley's first legislature, the a.ssembly declares "its meeting exceeding c-i^.<;/owia?-i/ 
limits in this place used." ITcning, v. I. p. 233. This is a plain declaration, that as- 
semblies were the custom and u.se of Virginia at the time of Berkeley's arrival, ■ If 
any doubts remain, it would be easy to multiply arguments and references." 



HISTORY OF VinoiNlA 5^3 

ftnci including fho whole southern porlion of the United States, under the 
name of Carolina. But as this country was not settled until lonir after- 
wards, and the charter became void by non-compliance with its terms, it 
couhl not be regarded as ijijurious by the colony, except as an evidence of 
the facility with which their chartered rights could be divested. Another 
,^0,.-, instance of a more objeolionablc character soon occurred. Cecilius 
Calvert, Lord Baltimore, obtained a grant of that portion of Vir- 
ginia which is now included in the state of Maryland, and immediately 
commenced a settlement upon it, notwith.'itauding the value which the Vir- 
ginians set upon it, and their having actually made settlemenf.s within its 
limils.* William Claiborne who had been a member of the council and 
secretary of state for Virginia had obtained a license from the king to "traffic 
in those parts of America, where there was no license," which had been 
continued by Harvey. In pursuance of this authority he had settled him- 
self at Kent Island near the city of Annapolis, and seemed by no means in- 
clined tamely to relinquish his possessions. He resisted the encroachments 
of Maryland by force. This was the first controversy between the whites 
which ever took place on the waters of the Chesaj»eake. Claiborne was in- 
dicted and found guilty of murder, piracy and sedition, and to escape pun- 
ishment he fled to Virginia. When the Maryland commissioners demand- 
ed him, Harvey refused to give him up, but sent him to England to be tried. 
It is highly probable that the conduct of Harvey in giving up instead of 
protecting Claiborne, incensed the colony against him, for they clearly 
thought the Maryland charter an infringement of their rights, and they were 
little inclined to submit to imposition from any quarter. Burke himself 
who thinks the colony wished Claiborne to be given up to Maryland, says 
that in the year 1633 there Avas a developemcnt of a land speculation on the 
part of the governor, highly injurious to the colony. "It appears that by a 
collision with the king's commissioners, large tracts of land were disposed 
of to absentees, not unfrequently interferring with the rights of actual set- 
tlers, and involving subjects of fiiture litigation. By this proceeding, the 
colony was threatened Avith dismemberment, and :the niischiefs were ag- 
gravated by the conditions of those grants, which exempted the proprietors 
from the payment of quit rents. Property conveyed wilii such absolute and 
unqualified formalities, seemed to give the proprietors the rights of sovereign 
authority, instead of the guarded restraints of a foedal tenure ; and an 
abundant source of litigation was laid up for posterity by establishing an 
iviperiv.m inimpcrio^; within the bosom of the colony." Surely this specu- 
lation was ol itself sufficient cause for dissatisfaction, and renders it unne- 
cessary to look further to account for the conduct of Che colony. To have 
the lands for which they had fought and struggled with so much persever- 
ance, and through so many difficulties suddenly wrested from them by an 
act of arbitrary authority ; and their governor not only conniving, but 
making a speculation on the alienation of their blood bought territory, was 
enough to have excited a people to take even more summary vengeance 
than that aiTorded by a trial and ejection from the gubernatorial chair. Nor 
was it any palliation to the evil that few of their actual settlements were 
within the ceded territory, for they had not struggled so strenuously only 
for such small portion of groxnid as they might actually live upon, but upon 

♦ Holme's Am. An. v. I. p. aUl, 2C.5. 

t Lord Fairfax held a Couil Barun,— Burke v. VI. p. 3b. 



584 HISTORY OF VIRGmiA. 

a grant of a vast leiritory, wilh all its bcpad . waters, magnificcnl. forests, 
lofty mountains and fertile plains, — a niigJity empire worthy of the people 
who had strived so hard to win it. But now the whole south was cut off 
at one blow; the jurisdiction of the upper portion of their own beautiful bay 
which they actually occu])ied, was torn from th^m, their territory \a as se- 
vered into two portions by the intrusion of a new power into its centre, and 
the hardy citizens who had won the country and established the blessings 
of a free government, were to btnd the knee in feudal vassalage, or surren- 
der their homes and possessions to their new lords, who never struck a 
blow in the acquisition of their vast estates. Virginia sent a remonstrance 
in the name of all her planters, against the grant of Maryland: and the 
privy council unable to deny the manifest justice of their representations, 
but unwilling to offend the king by a decision against the validity of lord 
Baltimore's patent, decided that he might retain it, and the Virginians have 
their remedy at law. The law at that time in the king's courts, in cases in 
which he wasconcernedbcingtheking's will; the Virginiansdeclined.entering 
the tribunal, and making a virtue of necessity, entered into a treaty of com- 
merce and amity with their new neighbor. 

The account wliich we have of the trial of Harvey is c.vtrcmely mea'gte, 
detailing neither the accusations or the evidence, but only the fact. The 
manner of proceeding however, as it appears on the record, is as little Kke 
that of an enslaved people as it is like a "transport of popular rage and-iri-- 
dignation." The whole matter seems to have been conducted with calin de- 
^liberadon, as a free people acting upon the conduct of an unworthy "servant. 
The first entry upon the subject runs thus : — "an Assembly .to be called to 
receive complaints against Sir John Harvey, on the petition of many inhab- 
itants, to meet 7th of May." Could as much cooltress, deliberation and 
publicity be given to action against a tyrant who had already trodden liber- 
ty under foot, or is a transport of popular rage so slow in action ?' The 
~ next entry upon this subject is the following :— " on the 28th of April T685, 
Sir John Harvey thrust out of his government, and Captain John West 
acts as governor, till the, lying's pleasure known."* It appears frmh another 
ancient recordf that before the as,semtdy.me.t which was to hav6 heard 
complaints against Harvey, he agreed in, council to go to England to an- 
swer them, and upon that West Wcis elected governor. ' -/- '•''■ ' - 

How long AVesl governed is uncertait), but it appears By a papef'anSd^'g 
the records that Hiuvey was governor again in .l;inuary/1636. It "appears 
that Charles regarded the conduct of the colony as an unwarrantable' piece 

■ of insolence little short of treason, and would not even hear themleast' the 
spetacle of so noble an example might inflame the growing discontents 
in his own kingdom, which finally rose to such a pitch as not only to take 
the same unwarrantable liberty of.deposing him, biit even laid violent hands 

' upon his sacred person. He accordingly sent the conrmis.'^iorfefs Irbitie 
with their grievances untold, and Harvey was re instated in his power 
without undergoing even a trial. 7'he conduct of the colony appears 'to 

^ have been a salutary lesson to him; and he probably feared that for the 
next ofTence they would take justice into their own hands; for we hear no 
complaints of him during his administration, which e.xpircd in November 
1€39. Sir Francis Wyatt succeeded him. 



♦ Hening v. I. 223. 

tList of governors; Hcning, v. 1. p. 1. 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 665 

In 1634 the colony vvas divided into eight shires,* which were to be go- 
verned as the shires in England, lieutenants were to be appointed in tha 
same manner as in England, and it was their especial duty to pjiy attention 
to the war against the Indians. Sheriffs, Sergeants and Bailiffs were also 
to be elected as in England. In 1628-9 commissions were issued to hold 
monthly courts in the different settlements, which was the origin of our 
county court system. f 

At the first assembly which was held after the return of Wyatt, several 
acts were passed, which from the inattention of historians to the circumstan- 
ces of the times, have received universal reprobation, but which when pro- 
perly considered, will be found to be marked with great shrewdness and 
dictated by the soundest policy. 

The act declares that, "tobacco by reason of excessive quantiiies made, 
being so low, that the planters could not subsist by it, or be enabled to raise 
more staple commodities or pay their debts: therefore it was tnocUd that the 
tobacco of that year be viewed by sworn viewers, and the rotten and unmer- 
chantable, and half the good to" be burned. So the whole quantity made 
would come to 1,500,000 lbs. without stripping and smoothing; and the next 
two years 170 pounds tobacco per poll, stript and smoothed, was to be made, 
which would make in the whole about 1,300,000 lbs. and all creditors were to 
take 40 lbs. for a hundred.'" By a second act it was declared that, "no man 
should be obliged to perform above half his covenants about freightmg to- 
bacco in 1639." Nothing -could be more absurd than such acts at the pre- 
sent day, and hence they have been pronounced absurd at that time. But 
let us look to the circumstances. Except the little tobacco made in the 
Somer Isles, Virginia at that time had the monopoly of the English market. 
The taste for tobacco vvas new, existed with feAv and could not be suddenly 
extended; consequently the consumption could not be increased in propor- 
tion to the increase of supply, but those who used it would obtain it at a 
price proportionably less. Thus a superabundant supply so glutted the 
market as to reduce the article to a price ruinous to the planters. On the 
other hand Avith those who had acquired a taste for tobacco, it was nearly 
indispensable, and if less than a usual crop \v9t made the demand enhanced 
the value of the remainder beyond that of the full crop, hence the propriety 
of burning half of the good tobacco. This seems to have been perceived, 
and we have seen no fault found with the first portion of the act, but the 
latter part, forcing creditors to take less than their full dues, has been pro- 
nounced flagrantly unjust. But if this had not been done what would have 
been the condition of the planter ? If he had m.ade a hundred pounds, and 
owed fifty, the burning and his creditor would deprive hirn of his whole 
crop, whilst the creditor receiving the fity pounds at its enhanc^ value, 
would receive more than double what was due him This would have 
been highly oppressive to the debtor, and made the whole act redound en- 
tirely to the benefrt of the creditor. Whereas making him take 40 
pounds in the hundred, when that 40 was enhanced to more than the value 
of the hundred, was no hardship. r _f 

In the early stages of the colony, the planters vvanted the cxjmfoTts of 
life from Eng'l and and not money, for money 'could purchase nothing in 



♦ Viz: James City, Henn.o, Charle.s City, Elizabeth City. War«,. k nv^r, Warros 
quoyokp, Charles rivpr and Accomark. 
tSee Note A at the end of thi^ chapiri . 
74 



5^6:^ HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

America. It would bave been wasteful extravagance to have brought it. 
The Virginians liad but one article of export, — all trading vessels came 
for tobacco, — whence that would purchase every thing, and became on that, 
account useful to every man and an article of universal desire as money 
is ia other countries, and hence the standard of value and circulating 
medium of the colony. We find when money first began to be introduced, 
as the keeping accounts in tobacco was inconvenient to the foreign pier-; 
chants who came to trade, an act was passed with the following preamble, 
— "Whereas it hath been the usual custom of merchants and others deal- 
ing intermutually in this colony, to make all bargains, contracts, and to keep 
all accounts in tobacco, and not in money," &.c. It then goes on to eniact 
that in future they should be kept in money, and that in all pleas and ac-r 
tions the value should be represented in money. This was in 1638.* 
But it was found so inconvenient to represent value by an arbitrary stand- 
ard, the representative of which did not exist in the colony, that another 
act, Avas passed in January 1641, declaring that, — "Whereas many and 
great inconveniences do daily arise by dealing for money, Be it enacted an(t 
confirmed by the authority of this present Grand Asseinbly, that all money 
debts made since the 26th day of March, 1642, or which hereafter shall be; 
made, shall not be pleadable or recoverable in any court of justice under this 
government,"! An exception was afterwards made in 1642-3, in favor of 
debts contracted ior horses or sheep,;}: but money debts generally were doJ, 
even made recoverable again until i656.|| We thus see that tobaccqi ;\vas 
the currency, and an excess as injurious as an over issue of bank paper^ 
depreciating itself in th<^.-)[narket. or in common parlance causing every 
thing to rise. We. see ry-Oreover, the cause of the excessive care taken ,ia 
burning bad tobacco, since ttxat wa? as important to the uniformity of their 
currency as the -eiclusion of counterfeits in a money currency. All the 
viewings, censorships, inspections, regulations of the amount to he culti- 
vated by each planter, each hand, — the quantity to be gathered from each 
plant, — the regulations prescribed as to curing it, — are to be regarded more 
as mint regulations than as regulations of agricultural industry. Indee4 
we iind the attempt to seiL^aap pay;,ha4-jli»t>3cco is made a crime precisely 
as it is now to sell or pay counterfeit rnoney.^ This act of Assembly then 
allowed debtors to dischai=ge themselves by paying half their debts i» 
amount, did in effect make them pay all in value, ■AnA can by no means 
be compared to the acts of slates or princes in debasing the coin and allow,- 
ing it to retain it&j&ld nominal value, «r by introducing valueless papej 
money; in these cases, the debt is- paid nominally or in words but not in 
value, whereas in Virginia it was not paid nominally as it had beeji coii- 
fera«ied for so many jjounds o( tobacco, but it was paid in /(?w«^r pouiMls 
rendered of greater actual value than the debt would have aaaaojint«d,t(j.|f 
paid in 7?o?i»(is -before the burning. of half the quantify made.H - > .- » jfgj 

* Hening, v.'l. p. 21G. VHenning, v. I. p. 26-2. •-'■■^■' •' '* " 

t Ibid. 268. - - If Ibjd. 417. ' §Henning, v.T'p: 15-i. "~-' 

IT We are sorry to see even Mr. Bancroft (p. 218.) cen.snring this as an act of injtis- 
jice, ami comparing it with debasing the coin. In order to acconnt for the Act he 
even casts a shir upon the Cormcil and Assembly, and says, " Probably the members 
of the Legislature and the Council were themselves much in debt." If they had 
passed the burning act wi4;hout the other clause one might well have supposed them 
large creditors, since it woiild have more than doubled in value what was due to 
them, whilst the amount in pounds would have remained the same.. In short the, act 
would have been to make every planter loose the tobacco jDurOed, and his creditors 
g«t the advantage of the burning, 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA.' 587 

Wyatt remained g-overnor only for one year and a few months, when h^ 
was succeeded by Sir William Berkeley. Historians who have not been 
awartf of the intermediate administration of Wyatt, and have heard no com- 
plaint of Berkelev, have delightL-d to deck his character in the gayest colors, 
in contrast to the black character which they have drawn of Harv* y. There 
can be no doubt that he was esteemed an accomplished and chivalric gentle- 
man; but his accession brought no increase of political freedom to Virgi- 
nia, and his commission did not difler from those of his predecessors. On 
the contrary the instructions which he brought, so far from granting ne\^ 
franchises, imposed new, severe, and unwarrantable restrictions on the lib- 
erty of trade; England claiming that monopoly of colonial commerce, 
which was ultimately enforced by the navigation act, and which was a per- 
petual source of contention, until all differences were finally healed by the 
revolution.* 

Berkeley arrived in February, 1642; an assen^bly met in March, and 
soon after passed a solemn protest against a petition which Sir George San- 
dys had presented to Parliament for the restoration of the company. This 
paper is drawn with great ability, and sets forth the objections to the petition 
in very strong and striking terms. They enlarge especially upon the wish 
and power of the company to monopolise their trade; the advantages and 
happiness secured to them by their present form of government, with its 
annual assemblies and trial by jury; the fact that a restitution of the power 
of the company would be an admission of the illegality of the king's au- 
thority and a consequent nullification of the grants and commissions issued 
by him; and the impossibility of men, however wise, at such a distance and 
unacquainted with the climate or condition of the country, to govern the 
colony as well as it could be governed by their own Grand Assembly. t 
The king in reply to this declared his purpose not to change a form of go- 
vernment in which they received so much content and satisfaction. ' ' ' 
Other important matters were settled at this legislature. A taxfor thef 
benefit of the governor was abolished. The punishment by condemnatron 
to temporary service was abolished, which had existed ever since the foun* 
dation of the colony; and this preteetion' to Ifberty was considered as so 
important to the Assembly that they declared it was to be considered as a 
record by the inhabitants of their birthright as Englishmen, and that the 
oppression of the late company was quite extinguished. The governor 
probably received some benefit from these considerations, for he is praised 
for giving his assent to an act in which he preferred the public freedom to 
his particular profit. A nearer approach was made to the laws and cus- 
toms of England in proceedings of courts and trials of causes. Better re- 
gulations were prescribed for discussing and deciding 'and titles. The 
bounds of parishes were more accurately marked. A treaty with Mary- 
land, opening the trade of the Chesapeake was matured; and peace Tvith 
the Indians confirmed. Taxes were proportioned more to men's estates 
and abilities than to the numbers, by which the poor were much relieved, 
"but which through the strangeness thereof could not but require much 
time and debating." They published a list of their acts in order to show 
to the colony that they had not swerved from "the true intent of their hap- 
.py. constitution," which required them to "enact good and wholesome laws, 

:;)V^ancroft,V. I. p.219. .,--..- 

-^'"tHening.V. I. P.-231-4. " " ' : > 



S^t HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

and rectify and relieve such disorders and grievances as are incident to all 
states and republics; but that their late consultations would redound g-reatly 
to the. benefit of the colony and their posterity." In the conclusion of that 
list they state that the gracious inclination of his majesty, ever ready to 
protect them, and now more particularly assured to them, together M-ith the 
concurrence of a happy parliament in England, — were the niotives which 
induced them to take this opportunity to "establish their liberties and privi- 
leges and settle their estates often before assaulted and threatened, and late- 
ly invaded by the corporation; and to prevent the future designs of mono- 
polizers, contractors, and preemptors, ever usurping the benefit of their la- 
bors; and they apprehended that no time could be misspent, or labor mis- 
placed in gaining a firm peace to themselves and posterity, and a future im- 
munity andease to themselves from taxes and impositions, which they ex- 
pected to be the fruits of their endeavors." 

The Indians had been driven back, and weakened by a perpetual succes- 
sion of hostilities from the time of the great massacre until the year 1644. 
During the latter years of this period we have little account of their pro- 
ceedings, hut the rapid increase of the settlements had drjven them from the 
rich borders of the rivers in the lower country higher into the interior, and 
the new grants were ev^ery day diiving them still further from the homes 
of their fathers. This incessant warfare, whilst it weakened them as a na- 
. „ . tion, had increased their cunning and skill in partisan warfare. Op'e- 
chancanough, though now so old that he had to be carried in a litter, 
and so feeble that he could not raise his eyelids without assistance, still re- 
tained sufficient strength of mind to embody a combination of the various 
tribes under his control* and make a sudden and violent attack upon many 
of the frontier settlements at once. Little is known of the circumstances 
attending this second great massacre. An act of Assembly of 164.'>, mak- 
ing the eighteenth day of April a holyday and day of thanksgiving, for 
escape from the Indians, marks the period of the massacre. Other evidence 
makes the number of their victim.s three hundred.* The precautions which 
the whites had been tausriit to taie by the previous massacre, in trading with 
them only at particular places, iii always going armed, in never admitting 
them to the same familiarity, efTeclually prevented them, with all their cau- 
tion in approach^ and violence of attack, from committing as great slaughter 
as they had upon the former occasion. The whites do not seem to have 
been stricken with a panic now gs fornnerly, but quickly sallied upon their 
assailants, and drove them hack so rapidly that their venerable chieftain 
himself had to be deserted by his attendants, and Avas taken by Sir William 
Berkeley, at the head of a squadron of light cavalry. He was carried to 
Jamestown,. and manifested in his imprisonment the same haught}'^ dignity 
which had always distinguished him. He preserved a proud and disdaiii- 
ful silence, and such indifference to the passing scenes, that iie rarely re- 
quested his eyelids to be raised. In this melancholy condition, he was 
basely shot in the back by his sentinel, with whom recollection of former 
injuries overcame all respect for helpless age, or former greatness. The 
only subject which called forth any show of i*egret from him was a flash 
of angry indignation, at being exposed in his dying hours to the idle and 
curious gaze of his enemies. 

♦Bancroft, p. ^24— Burke, V. II, p. 55, says— on authority of Beverley— " five hun- 
dred." 



inSTORY OF VIRGINIA. C89 

- So liule regaiil was now paid lo the Indian lio.stiliti<;s, that on the follow- 
ing June, Sir William Berkeley sailed for England, and Uie council elected 
Richard Ivemp to occupy his post until his return. In the mean timp, the 
warfare with the Indians continued without remission. It appears by an 
act of the latter part of the year 1G44, that many of the inhabitants, proba- 
bly on the frontiers, had been collected in large bodies; but leave was therj 
given them to dispose of themselves "for their best advantage and conve- 
nience, provided that in places of danger, there yhould not be less than ten 
men allowed to settle."* 

Sir William Berkeley again took possession of his government in June, 
Oct *" ^CdC ^^^^- And in the following year a treaty of peace was con- 
' ■ eluded with the Indians, by which Necotowance, the succes- 

sor of Opechancanough, acknowledged that he held his kingdom of the 
crown of England, and agreed that his successors should be appointed or 
confirmed by the king's governor; on the other hand the Assembly on be- 
half of the colony, undertook lo protect him against rebels and all enemies 
wliatsoever. In this treaty the Indians were permitted to dwell on the north 
side of York river; but ceded to the whites all the country from the falls 
of the James and York to the bay, forever; and any Indian coming upon 
that territory was to suffer death unless he bore the badge of a messenger. 
The Indians were also to surrender all prisoners, negroes, and arms taken. 
Other articles were added prescribing the form of intercourse.! Thus 
were the Aborigines at length finally excluded from their father-land, leav- 
ing no monument of their having existed, save ihe names of the waters and 
mountains, and the barrows containing the ashes of their ancestors. | 

Thus the colony of Virginia acquired the management of all its con- 
cerns; war was levied, and peace concluded, and territory acquired, in con- 
formity to the acts of the representatives of the people; whilst the people 
of the mother country, had just acquired these privileges after a long and 
hloody conflict with their former sovereign. Possessed of security and 
quiet, abundance of land, a free market for their staple, and practically, all 
the rights of an independejit slate, having. Engl.iijd for its guardian against 
foreign oppression, rather than its rrjler, the colonii^ts enjoyed all the pros- 
perity which a virgin soil, equal laws, and general uniformity of condi- 
tion and industry, could bestow. Their numbers increased; the cottages 
were filled with children, as the ports were with ships and emigrants. At 
Christmas, 1G48, there were trading in Virginia, ten ships from London, 
two from Bristol, twelve Hollanders, and seven from New England. The 
number of the colonists was already twenty thousand; and they, who had 
sustained uo griefs, were not tempted to engage in the feuds by which the 
mother country was divided. They were attached to the cause of Charles, 
lfi4Q *^°^ because they loved monarohv, but because they cherished the lib- 
■ ■ erties of which he had left them in the undisturbed possession; and 



♦ Hening, p. 285-6. 

tHening, V. I. p. 3-23, 32t;. 

}I know uf nu such thing existing as aij Indian monument — of labor on the large 
scale — I think there is no remain as respectable as would be a common ditch loi the 
draining of lands; unless indeed it would be the barrows, of which many are lo be 
found all over the country. — That they were repositories of the dead has been obvious 
to all ; but on what particular occasion constructed, was a matter of doubt. — Jefferson's 
Notes on Va., p. 132. 



W HISTORY OF VIRGINIA- 

after his execution, though tliere were not wanting some who favored Re- 
publicanism, the government recognised his son without dispme.* : ■ •■ - " 

The loyalty of the Virginians did not escape the attention of the royal 
Tine IfO ^^^^^'i ^'"oni his retreat in Breda he transmitted to Berkeley a 
' ■ new commission, and Charles the Second, a fugitive from Engi 

land, was still the sovereign of Virginia.t . - .. 

But the Parliament did not long permit its autViority to be denied. Hav- 
ing, by the vigorous energy and fearless enthusiasm of republicanism, tri- 
umphed over all its enemies in Europe, it turned its attention to the colo- 
nies; and a memorable ordinance at once empowered the council of state 
to reduce the rebellious colonies to obedience, and at ihe same time, estab- 
lished it as a law, that foreign ships should not trade at any of the porta* 
"in Barbadoes, Antigua, Bermudas and Virginia." Thus giving the first 
example of that v^-holesale blockade afterwards rendered so notorious by the 
celebrated orders in council during the Avars of the French revolution. 
Maryland, which was not expressly included in the ordinance, had taken 
care to acknowledge the new order of things; and Massachusetts, alike 
unwilling to encounter the hostility of parliament, and jealous of the rights 
of independent legislation, by its own enactment, prohibited all intercourse 
with Virginia till the supremacy of tlie commonwealth should be establish- 
ed; although the order, when it was found to be injurious to commerce, was 
promptly repealed, ev^en while royalty still flourished at Jamestown.]; - 

A powerful fleet with a considerable body of laud forces on board, sent 
out to bring the colonies to submission, having subdued Barbadoes and- 
Antigua, cast anchor before James I'own. Sir William Berkeley and his 
hardy colonists had not- been inactive, the growing strength of the colony 
iiad recently been mcreased by the acquisition of many veteran cavaliers 
from the king's army, and it now presented no comtemptible force. Seve- 
ral Dutch ships which were lying in the river, and Avhich as trading con- 
trary to the prohibition of Parliament, were armed'to provide againstsur- 
^rise by the commonwealth's fleets, were also pressed into service. This, 
show of resistance induced the commissioners of ParliamBut to hesitate, 
before they attempted to reduce tl^ colony to obedience by force; and to 
(oflfer them fair and honorable terms of submission. The terms offered be- 
ing such as completely satisfied the Virginians that their freedom was to 
^e preserved inviolate, and their present happy constitution guaranteed, 
whilst they were to suffer nothing for past conduct, readily acquiesced, 
since they gained all by such a surrender which they could effect by the 
most successful warfare. It appears that they never anticipated anything 
more than the preservation of their own liberties from wanton violation 
from the new and untried power which now held the reins of government 
in England ; and could scarcely have been mad enough to hope to effect 
anything favorable to the king by their resistance.)] , 

♦Renins, V. 1, p. 359--60. Act 1. 

tBancroft, V. I, -i^S-e. 

t Bancroft, V. I, p. 226-7. 

II We have differed from Bancrof't upon this suLject, who savs, p. 240. "No sooner 
had the Guinea frigate anchored in the waters of the Chesapeake, than 'all thoughts 
of resistance were laid aside,' [Clarendon, B. XIII. p. 4fiG, 467.] and the colonists 
having no motive to contend for a monarch, vvliose fortunes seemed irretreivable,. 
were earnest only to assert the freedom of their own institutions." There can be np; 
doubt but Burke, vol. II. p. 82, drew largely upon his imagination for the briUiaat 
colors in which he paints Berkeley's attitude of resistance, the outline of -the picim^ 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIAS 591 

The articles of surrender are roiii^ltulcd belween tlie (•nriiini>sioiicrs of 
the comnionwoiillh, and the council of st;ile, and Uraud AsrseinKly of Vir- 
ginia ; as equal trrating with equal. It secures: — 

1st. That this shouJd be considered a voluntary act, not forced or con- 
strained by a conquest upon the country; and that the colonists should have 
and enjoy such freedoms and privileges as belong to the freeborn people of 
England. 

2dly. That the Grand Assembly as formerly should convene and trans- 
act the affairs of Virginia; doing nothing contrary to the government of 
the commonwealth or laws of England : 

3dly. That there should be a full and total remission of all acts, words 
or writings against the Parliament ; 

4thly. That Virginia should have her ancient bounds and limits granted 
by the charters of the former kings, and that a new charter was to be 
sought from Parliament to that efiect, against such as had trespassed upon 
their ancient rights: — [This clause would seem to be aimed at some of the 
neighboring colonies.] 

5thly. That all patents of land under the seal of the colony, granted by 
the governor, should remain in full force : 

6thly. That the privilege of fifty acres of land for every person emi- 
grating to the colony should remain in full force : 

7thly. That the people of Virginia have free trade, as the people of Eng- 
land enjoy with all places and nations, according to the laws of the ccfm- 
monwealth, and that Virginia should enjoy equal privileges in every respect 
with any other colony in America : 

8thly. That Virginia should be free from all taxes, customs aiKl imposi- 
tions whatsoever, and that none should be imposed upon them without the 
consent of their Grand Assembly. And no forts or castle be erected, or 
garrisons maintained without their consent : 

9thly. That no charge should be required from the country on accouhi 
of the expence incurred in the present fleet : 

lOthly. That this agreement should be tendered to all |>ersons, and that 
such as should refuse to subscribe to it, should ha^e a years time to remove 
themselves and effects from Virginia, and in the meantime enjoy equal jus- 
tice. 

The remaining articles were of less importance. This was followed by 
a supplemental treaty, for the benefit of the governor and councils and suclt 
soldiers as had served against the commonwealth in England ; allowing 
them the most favorable terms. 

If this v^'tls a conquest, — happy would it be for most colonies tobe co«-- 
quered ; every privilege was secured which could pos.sibly be -asked, and 
the liberties of the colony were established more thoroughly than they had 

he probably found in his ancient rccord.s. The authority upon which we rest is the 
act of indemnitj' itself (Hening, p. 3G7.) issued by the Parliamentary coniinissioners, 
— that act recites that having brought a fleet and force before James Cittic in Vir- 
ginia, to reduce that colony under the obetlience of the commonweallli of England, 
and finding force raised by the governor and country to make opposition against the 
said fleet, whereby a.ssured danger appearing of the ruin and destruction of the 
plantation, for prevention whereof the Burgesses of all the several plantations being 
called to advise and assist therein, upon Ions; and serious debate, [during which we 
must suppose the hostile attitude was continued,] and in sad contemplation of the 
great miseries and certain destruction, which were so nearly hovering over thLs whole 
country," &c. — We suppose there might have been also smne little danger to the 
commonwealth's men and ships. 



592 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

ever been, and the conquest was only less favorable to Virginia than her 
declaration of independence, by having her rights depending upon the 
pledged faith of another nation, instead of having them entirely under her 
cwn control. The correspondence between the rights now secured, and 
the rights mentioned in the Declaration of Independence as violated by the 
British king, is remarkable. 

All matters were thus happily and amicably arranged, and as Sir Wil- 
liam Berkeley was too loyal a subject to be willing to take office under 
Parliament, — Richard Bennett, one of the commissioners was elected gover- 
nor. A council was also elected with powers to act in conformity to the 
instructions they should receive from the Parliament, the known law of 
England, and the Acts of Assembly, and such other powers as the Assem- 
bly should think proper from time to time to give them. It was declared 
at the same session that it was best that officers should be elected by the 
Burgesses, "the representatives of the people;" and after discussion upon 
the propriety of allowing ihp governor and council to be members of the 
Assembly, it was determined that they might, by taking the same oath 
which was taken by the Burgesses. The Assembly thus having no writ- 
ten constitution as their guide, took upon themselves the office of a con- 
vention of the people, and granted or resumed powers as it might seem beat 
for the good of the country. 

The whites and the remnants of the neighboring Indian tribes continued 
to be upon good terms, and the latter were kindly and humanely treated by 
the guardian care of the Assembly. A slight irruption of the Rappahan- 
nocks, seems to have been soon terminated. But a new scene in the his- 
tory of the colony now presented itself The Rechahecrians, a tierce and 
warlike tribe came down from the mountains and took up a strong position 
on the falls of James river, with dx or seven hundred warriors. This ex- 
cited no little uneasiness, as it had been very difficult to extirpate the In- 
dians Avho had formerly possessed the spot. The first expedition against 
them failed, a new one was prepared and the subject Indians being called 
upon for aid furnished a hundred warriors, most of whom with their chief 
Totopotomoi, fell fighting gallantly.* 

When Bennett retired from office, and the Assembly elected Edward Digges 
M h'^\ IT'" his successor. The conmiissioners of the commonwealth 

a c o , oo. ^^^ ]\i\\e^ lo do with controling the destinies of Virginia, 
but were engaged in settling the afTairs and adjusting the boimdaries of 
Maryland. 

The Assembly reciting the articles of Agreement with the comniission- 
IVI h 1'^ ir=;R ^'^ °^ Parliament, which'admitted that the election of all 
' ■ officers of the colony appertained to the Btirgesscs, the 

representatives of the people proceeded to the election of a governor and 
council until the next Assembly: and the choice fell upon "worthy Samnel 
Matthews, an old planter, of nearly forty years standing, a most dx^serving 
commonwealth's man, who kept a good house, lived bravely, and was a 
true lover of Virginia." t But this worthy old gentleman seems to have 
conceived higher ideas of his powers than the Assembly was willing to 
allow. The Assembly had determined not to dissolve itself but only to 
adjourn until the first of November.^ They then proceeded with their 

*Biirk, vol. 3. 104-106. 

TBancrofi, v. I. p. 213— quoiing II. M. lli:>t. Coll. v. IX. p. 110. 

mcnin", v. I. 497. 



i 



klS'l'URV OF VIRCJIJNIA. 593 

ordinai'y businof<s ; makino- however one imporiatit cliange in iLe consti 
tution, which was to require that all propositions and laws presented by a 
committee should be first discasst^d by the Flouse of Burgesses in privat*^-, 
before the admission of rhe governor and council. The governur and 
•council on the first of "April sent a message declaring that they thought fit 
then to dissolve the Assenibly, and requiring the speaker to dismiss ihs 
Burgesses. To this the Assembly returned for answer that the act was 
illegal, and without precedent, and requested a revocation of it, as they ex- 
pected speedily to Hnish their business. 'I'he house then declared than any 
member who should depart should be censured as betraying the trust r<'- 
posed in him by his country; and that the remainder should act in all 
things and to all intents and purposes as an entire house; that the Speaker 
"should sign nothing without the cmisenl of a majority of. the House, and 
that the members .should take aiil oiith not to discloso the aols or debates .of 
-that body. The governor replied lo the comnuuiicalion from the houge, 
that he was willing that the house would conclude its business speedily, 
and refer the dispute as lo the legality of his power to divS,';olve, to the de- 
cision of the Lord I'roteclor. The House unanimously decided this 
-answer to-be unsatisfactory; expressed an ear-nesl desire ihal public busi- 
ness might be soon despatched, and requested the governor and cpuncil to 
declare the house undissolved, in order that a speedy period might be put 
^o public affairs. In reply to this the governor ant] council revoked the 
"order of dissolution upon their pronnse of a speedy conclusion, and again 
referred the matter of disputed right to the Lord Protector. The House 
still unsatisfied \vith this answer appointed a con)niiltee to draw, up a report 
in vindication of the conduct of the Assembly- and in support of its power. 
In the report the Burgesses declare that they have in themselves full 
power of election and appointment of all officers in ,fhe (;oimtry, until they 
•should have an order to th^- contrary from the supreme power in England , 
fhat the house of Burgesses, the representatives of the people, were jiot 
dissolvable by any power yet extant in Virginia, t'.vcept their own ; that 
the former election of governor, antl ccMinciii/iVTais null, and that in future 
no one should be admitted a counciilwf «nlcs6 hv was nominated„aj.pQiQted 
and confirmed by the house of Buigeeses. r -^ 

■ They (hen direrted an order to the shenflf of Jame. ' H \ • ounty, who 
was their sergeant at-aims, th^t he should execute no warrant, precept or 
command directed to him by any other power or person than, the Speaker 
of the House. They then ordered that "as the supreme power of. the 
rountrv of Virginia had been declared resident in the Burgesses," the 
secretary of state should be required to deliver up the public recordo to the 
Speaker. -An oath war, prescribed tor the governor and council to^ake, 
and the same governor was^^lected and most of the same council. Thus 
were all difficulties adpisted, and popular sovereignly, fully established 
Upon the death of Cromwell, the House of Burgesse:; unanimously re- 
coo-nized his son Richard and adopted an address praying a 
Mar., 1-659. (.onfirmation of their former privileges, in which address the 
governor was required to )oin. after solemnly acknowleding in the presence 
of the whole AssemWv, that the oupreme power of electmg otficeTS was by 
the present laws resident ialheGj:And As.sembly ;' wb,. h un vlleeed to 



♦ Hening, v. 1. p. f)lC. 

75 



594 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA 

be rrquiredfor (his reason, that what was their privilege now might belong 
to their posterity hereafter. 

Matthews died, leaving the colony of Virginia without a governor, about 
M h irrn ^'^^ ^^"^*^ ^'"^*'- ^'^^^ ^^^^ resignation of Richard Cromwell 
IVlarcn, lObU j^^^ England without a head. In this emergency the As- 
sembly reciting that the late frequent distractions in England preventing 
any power from being generally confessed j that the supreme power of the 
colony should be vested in the Assembly, and that all writs should issue in 
its name, until such a command and commission should come from Eng- 
land as should by the Assembly be adjudged lawful.* Sir William Berke- 
ley was then elected governor, with the express stipulation that he should 
call an Assembly once in two years at least, and should not dissolve the 
Assembly without its own consent. This old royalist probably thinking 
now that there was a prospect of the restoration, accepted the office under 
the prescribed conditions, and acknowledged himself to.be but the servant 
of the Assembly. 

During the suspension of the royal government in England, Virginia 
attained unlimited liberty of comme.rce, which they regulated by indepen- 
dent laws. The ordinance of 1650 was rendered void by the act of capitu- 
lation ; the navigation act of Cromwell was not designed for her oppres- 
sion, and was not enforced within her borders. Only one confiscation ap- 
pears to have taken place, and that was entirely by the authority of the 
Grand Assembly. The war between England and Holland necessarily 
interrupted the intercourse of the Dutch with the English colonies ; but if 
after the treaty of peace the trade was considered contraband, the English 
restrictions were entirely disregarded. Commissioners were sent to Eng- 
^ftrr. ^ao'J to undeceive Cromwell with regard to the course Virginia had 
taken with reference to the boundary of Maryland, with regard to 
which he had been misinformed ; and to present a remonstrance demand- 
ing unlimited freedom of trade ; which it appears was not refused, for some 
months before the Protector's death, the Virginians invited the " Dutch 
and all foreigners" k) trade \yith them on payment of no higher duty, than 
that which was levied on such English vessels, as were bound for a foreign 
port. Proposals of peace and coanmerce between New-Netherlands and Vir- 
ginia \ve re discussed without scruple by the respective colonial governments; 
and at last a special statute of Virginia extended to every christian nation, 
in amity with England, a promise of liberty of trade and equal justice.! 
1660 ^*' ^^^ restoration, Virginia enjoyed freedom of commerce with the 
whole world. 
Virginia was the first state in the World, composed of separate town- 
ships, diffused over an extensive surface, where the government was organ- 
1655 ^^^^ °" ^^^^ principle of universal suffrage. All freemen without 
; exception were entitled to vote. The right of suffrage was once 
.^^^ restricted, but it was soon after determined to be '-hard and unagree- 
able to reason, that any person shall pay equal taxes and yet have 
no vote in the election ;" and the electoral franchise was restored to all 
freemen. Servants, when the time of their bondage was completed, at once 
became electors ; and might be chosen burgesses. Thus Virginia estab- 
lished upon her soil the supremacy of tire popular branch, the freedom of 



* Henning, v. I. p. 530. 

t Ibid, v, I, p. 450. ActXVL 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 5<H5 

trade, the independence of religious societies, the security From foreign 
taxation, and the universal elwtive franchise. If in the Ibllowiiig years 
she departed from either of these principles, and yielded a relurtant con- 
sent to change, it was from the infliu-nce of foreign authority. Virginia had 
herself established a nearly independent democracy. Prosperity advanced 
with freedom; dreams of new staples and infinite wealth were indulged; 
while the population of Virginia at the epoch of the restoration may have 
been about thiity thousand. Many of the recent emigrants had been royal- 
ists in England, good officers in the war, men of education, of property, 
and of condition. Hut the waters of the Atlantic divided them from the 
political strifes of Europe; their industry was employed in making the 
best advantage of their plantations ; the interests and liberties of Virginia, 
the land which they adopted as their country, were dearer to them than the 
monarchical principles, which they had espoused \\\ England ; and there- 
fore no bitterness could exist between the parlizans oi the Stuarts and the 
friends of republican liberty. Virginia had long been the home of its in- 
habitants — "Among many other blessings," said their statute book, "God 
Almighty hath vouchsafed increase of children to this culony ; who are 
now multiplied to a considerable number;" and the huts in the wilderness 
were as full as the bird's uesis of the woods. 

The genial climate and transparent atmosphere delighted those, who had 
come from the denser air of England. Every object in nature was new 
and wonderful. 

The hospitality of the Virginians became proverbial. Labor was valii- 
able; land was cheap; competence promptly followed industry. There 
was no need of a scramble; abundance gushed from the earth for all. The 
morasses were alive with water-fowl; the forests were nimble with game, 
the woods rustled with covies of quail and wild turkies, while they sung 
with the merry notes of the singing iHi'ds ; and hogs swarming Hke vermin, 
jran at large in troops. It was " the best poor man's country in tire workl." 
" If a happy peace be settled in poor England," it had been s.-iid "^ then they 
in Virginia shall be as happy a people afe any ander heaven.'* But plcntv 
encouraged indolence. No donfestic manufactnres were established ; every 
thing was imported from England. The chief branch of industry, for the 
purpose of exchanges, was tobacco planting ; and the spirit of invention ^vas 

enfeebled bv the uniformity of pursuit.* ' . . = ^ 

•^ ■7;:t;i.i» r-. 

♦Bancroft's History of the United States, vol. I. p. 21G, 252. In taking leave of l^is 
delightful author, whose worlc has not yet progressed beyond the first volume, we 
must make an apology for borrowing ih this chapter more perhaps than was Ian. But 
our extreme haste, writing against time, wliHst the press is m operation and the 
printer's devil taking his copij Irora under our pen before Uie ink is dry,— must Ije our 
apology for using his copious references, and even hus language when we tind it pre- 
cisely applicable to our purpose, expressed as it is with more ease and beauty than we 
could ever attain whatever time might be at our disposal. The use we make of his 
work whilst it will be a great benefit to our readers, cannot be an injury to him, but 
mav be a service in making his work known to many who would ^ not otherwise be 
aware of its merit, or perhaps its exi.stence. We have a v-ery high authority for ^. 
much more extensive sy.sieni of quotation, in the use ma.le by Judge Marshall of Dr. 
Robert-son's posthumous chapters on Virginia. Our haste must be our apology also 
for the use of a review of the early lecrislat.on of Virginia from the preface of Hen- 
in^'s Statutes at Large, which we give below. It presents a connected view of seve- 
raTmattersof legi.slaUon which we had not time to interweave into the text; our com- 
ments upon others, and our reasons for ditlering from the generally received opunoii 
of their impropriety are given in the lext. 



P; 596 

NOTE A. 

See p. 585.— From the settlement of the colony to the death of Charles I. and the com- 
mencement of the commonwealth thereupon, an uniformity to the doctrines and dis- 
cipline of the church of England was strictly enjoined; all non-conformists were com- 
pelled to leave the colony, with all convenience; popish recitsants were disabled from 
holding any office, and their priests not suffered to remain more than five days in the 
country. During the commonwealth, the affairs of the church were left to the discre- 
tion of the parishioners, but no sooner did the Cluakers, who had tied from the perse- 
cutions in England, arrive on our shores than they were met by the terrors of an act 
" for suppressing them;* masters of vessels were subjected to a penalty of one hundred 
pounds sterling for each Gluaker brought into the colony; all (Quakers were imprison- 
ed without bail or mainprize, till they found sufficient security to depart the colony: 
for returning they were directed to be proceeded against as contenmers of the laws 
and magistracy, and punished accordingly; and if they should come in a third time 
I hey were to be prosecuted as felons. All persons were prohibited, under the penalty 
of one hundred pounds sterling, from entertaining them, or permitting their assem- 
blies in or near their houses ; and no person was permitted to dispose of, or publish, 
any books or pamphlets containing the tenets of their religion. 

It is worthy of observation that a similar principle to that which has obtained in 
Kentucky with respect to compensation for improvements made upon lands by one 
man, the title of which appeared, from investigation, to be in another, existed in a law 
of Virginia, so long ago as the year 1G43. And as this law has never before been 
published^ we can only account for the coincidence, by supposmg that mankind, in 
every age, placed in similar situations, will generally pursue the same course. The 
act, after reciting that many suits had been commenced, founded on controversies re- 
lating to land, " to the great trouble and molestation of the whole colony," goes on to 
declare, that if any man should settle on a tract of land, which, on a just survey, 
should prove to be the property of another, a valuable consideration should be allowed 
by the judgment of twelve men upon oath, to the first who seated it, for clearing and 
improving it; but if the charge should amount to more than the real owner was wil- 
ling to give, the person in possession was bound to keep the land, and pay the owner 
what it should be judged by twelve men to be worth, " before the seating thereof " and, 
of course, Avithout regard to the improvements. An exception was made in favor ul 
orphans ; and afterwards a further proviso, that an allowance for " building aud clear- 
ing" should not be made to those who had " lawful warning" of a prior right. AboPt 
the same period (1G43) the assembly passed an act directing that all process against 
debtors lately arrived from England (except where the debts were contracted for 
goods purchased in England, or for the accommodation of planters returning to this 
country,) should be suspended. This act is introduced by a lengthy preamble, assign.- 
ing reasons which fully satisfiedijk^ miudsoftji^ legislature as to the policy and eveii 
justice of the measure. The.se laws had an obvious tendency to increase the popula- 
tion, and promote the improvement of the country; by rendering \\\e persons of many 
of the inhabitants free from restraint, and by securing to every man the fruits of his 
labor. 

The culture of tobacco seems to have been a favorite object with the first settlers, 
and was the only staple commodity to which they could be induced to turn their at- 
tention. In order to improve its quality various laws were passed limiting the num- 
ber of plants to be cultivated by each hand, and the leaves to be gathered from a 
plant. Other details in the process of making it, were also prescribed by the legisla- 
ture; and to insure a just compensation for the labor of the planter, the price at which 
it was to be sold was fixed by the assembly, at different times. The first idea of in- 
specting tobacco is contained in an act passed in 1030, before any warehouses were 
established. The process was very simple, and the penalty for offering unmerchant- 

*It will be seen by reference to the preamble of this act, that these people were not 
persecuted for religious opinion, but improper conduct "Whereas there is an vnreasou- 
able and turbulent sort of people, commonly called (iuakers, who contrary to the law 
do dayly gather together vnto them \Tilaw'll Assemblies and congregations of people 
teaching and publishing, lies, miracles, false visions, prophecies and doctrines, which 
have influence vpon the comunitics of men both ecclesiasticall and civil endeavouring 
and attempting thereby to destroy religion, lawes, comunities and all bonds of civil 
societie, leaveing it arbitrarie to everie vaine and vitious person whether men shall 
be safe, lawes established, offenders punished, and Governours rule, hereby disturbing 
the publique peace and just intere.st, to prevent and restraine Avhich misclijefe, //, is 
enacted, ^-c."— En. Gaz. 



HlSTOliY OF VIl^JlNIA. 597 

able tobacco in payment oqnnlly sovoiv. II' a |)lanti'r oHl-rcil lu pay away, or barter 
any bail tobacco, tlic conunaiicicr of the planiaiiou (an ollicer who uniicd with the 
powers of a justice of the peace, the supreme niiliiary command of tlic settlement) 
with two or three discreet men, were directed to view it, and if found of bad quality, 
to cause it to be burnt; and the owner was prohibited from plantiui^ any more tobacco 
until authorized Inj the General Asscnblij. At the next session the law was amended 
so as to make it the duty of tlie commander to issue his order either verbally or in 
writing to two " sniHcient liien" to view the tobacco, who were, in like manner, to 
burn it, if of bail quality. The same law was re-enacted in the revisal of 1G32. In 
1633, warehouses (then called storehouses) were established, and the inspectors were 
to be composed of that member of the kinj,''s council, whose residence was nearest any 
warehouse, and the commissioners of the several plantations, as assistants. 

To prevent the recurrence ol'a scarcity of corn, which had been severely felt in the 
colony, each master of a faniily was compelled to plant and suliiciently tend, two 
acres a head, for each laboring person in his family ; and as an encouragement to cul- 
tivate tiiat artii;le,theprice was not to be limited, but every plantermight sell it as dear 
as he could. Nor does it appear that the leafiskitnre ever interfered with the exportation 
of corn, or restricted the jjrice, except in times of pressing want. In the year 1G30, 
the contents of a txirrcl of corn were fixed at five bushels, Winchester measure, and 
has so continued to the present day. 

Various and severe laws were very early enacted against foreslallmg and ingross- 
ing imported articles, but their inefficacy having been experienced, they were all re- 
pealed and a free trade allowed. 

The adminisiraliun of justice, in Virginia, was originally extremely cheap, and 
simple in its details. Commanders of plantations held monthly courts for the trial of 
civil actions, not exceeding the value of one hundretf pounds of tobacco, and for the 
punishment of petty ofienccs, reserving the right of appeal to the quarter court held 
by the governor and council, which possessed the suj)reme judicial power, under the 
diflerent charters, and had original jurisdiction in all cases whatsoever. Comntis- 
sioners of monthly courts succeeded to commanders of plantations, with the like juris- 
diction in civil cases; Avliich was afterM'ards extended to five pounds sterling. The 
jurisdiction of the court was further extended to sixteen hundred pounds of tobacco, 
and they were to be called county instead oi monlhltj courts; and that of a single raa^ 
gistrate was final as far as twenty shillings sterling. In consequence of the great dis- 
tance of many iif the counties from James City, where the quarter ctjurts were held, 
jurisdiction was tinally given to the county courts, in all cases of law and equity, and 
the trial by jury secured t(j those who desired it. The decision of the county court 
was, at first, final as far as sixteen hundred pounds of tobacco, and for all siuus above 
that an apj^eal was allowetl to the quarter court, and Irom thence to the assembly; 
which afterwards had jurisdiction of appeals in all cases, of whatever amount. Be- 
sides the general jurisdiction of the tpunty anil i[iMrter courts, special provision was 
made for certain count ies and settlements wliere it Avas considcj'ed too inconvenient 
to the people to attend at the usual place of holding courts. The leading principlo 
seems to have been to carry justice to the doors of the inhatnt.ants. Thus, the county 
court of Northampton, " on account of its remoteness from James City" had final juris- 
diction as far as three thousand tvvo himdrcd pounds of tobacco; one commissioner ou 
the South side of the river in James City county, was vested with the powers of a 
county court; the inhabitants of Appamaltock or Bristol parish, were also authorised 
to hold courts, with the right of appeal to Henrico or Charles City county courts. 
Two courts were permitted to be held in Northampton ; two in Isle of Wight; and two 
in Charles City. As the population of the county increased, and new counties were 
formed, these special courts were abolished. 

In the year l(>t3, the first act passed for regulating lawyers; though they had cer- 
tainly attended the several courts befiire that period. By the first law on the subject, 
no attorney was permitted to jilead, without a license; which was grantable by the 
court in which he practised ; nor could an attorney have a license from more courts 
than the quarter, and one county court, — Their fees were twenty pounds of tobacco, 
in the county, and fifty pounds in the quarter court : and no attorney could refuse to 
be retained unless employed on the other side. In lG-15, all mercenary atlornies were 
expelled trom oflice: In ItilT, that act was amendcil by adding a clause to it declaring 
that no attornies should take any fees; and if the courl'should i)erceive that either pai> 
ts', by his weakness, was likely to lose his cause, they themselves should either open 
the case or " appoint some fit man out of the people," to plead the cause, and allow 
him a reasonable compensation : no other attornies were admitted. In U>5G, the act 
prohibiting altoinies was iei)ealetl; the governor and council were autlR)rised to li- 
cense them tur the (piuiicr ciiurts, and iIk- commi.ssioners for the county courts, and 



r>98 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

if any controversy should arise concerning their fees, it was to be settled by the courts 
respectively. In 1G57-8, tlie law against mercenary attornies, was again revived. 

An inspection of the diflerent fee bills will shew the simplicity of judicial proceed- 
ings, and the small compensaiion allowed to the oflicers of court. The first officers 
whose fees were established by law, were the secretary who was clerk of the quarter 
court, and the marshall, who executed the same duties which devolved upon the she- 
riff, after the appointment of that olticer, which was not until the year 1034. The 
fees of clerks and sherifts embraced but few objects, and were very moderate. 

Clerks of county courts were, at one time, appointed by the governor, but after- 
wards by the courts themselves. Commissioners of county courts, (the same as jus- 
tices of the peace) were formerly appointed by the governor, afterwards by act of as- 
sembly ; but at the commencement of the commonwealth they were appointed by the 
house of burgesses ; afterwards they were recommended by their courts, and commis- 
sioned by the governor and council, and finally their appointment was confirmed by 
the assembly. During the same period the county courts recom)nended three or more 
to the governor and council, out of which they made a selection forsherids, who were 
to continue in office for one year only. 

No representative government was ever instituted in which the principles of iini- 
versal suffrage, and o\ full representation, were carried further than in Virginia. The 
right of suffrage was originally exercised by all freemen; who were not compellable 
to go from their plantations to vote for burgesses; but might give their suffrages by 
subscribing a paper. This mode having been attended with considerable inconveni- 
ence, it was provided that all future elections should be by plurality oixuices present ; 
and a fine was imposed on dAX freemen, who should fail to attend at the time and place 
appointed for the election. The number of burgesses to di plantation or settlem,€nt (be- 
fore the formation of counties) was unlimited; nor does it appear that, at that time, 
any particular qualifications were necessary. After counties were laid ofl', the num- 
ber of representatives to a county remainedwithoul limitation, until November, 1645, 
when they were reduced to four to each county, except James City county, which 
might send five, and the city itself one; and the election was directed to be held where 
the county courts were, except in those places which were specially authorised by act 
of assembly to hold elections. These were certain jfwr^sAt.b- to which that privilege 
was granted; and it was afterwards extended to all parishes, they paying the expenses 
of their burgesses, as the counties in general were compelled to do in relation to tl>eirs. 
At the March session, lfifiO-1, the number of burgesses was limited to two for each 
coumy, and one for James City, it being tiie metropolis. 

The first act which in the smallest degree abridged the right of suflYage, or pre- 
scribed- the qualifications of the members, passed at the March session, 1G54-5. By 
this act it was declared, that the persons who should be elected to serve rn assembly 
be such, and no "oilier than such, as were persons of known integrity and of good 
"conversation, and of the age of one and twenty years." That all house keepers, 
" whether freeholders, lease-holders, or otherwise tenants, should only be capable lo 
elejt burgesses ;" provided that the term " house-keepers shoiild extend no further than 
" to one person in a family." At the next session, however, so much of this act as 
excluded any freeman from voting was repealed: the assembly declaring " that they 
conceived it something hard and unagreeable to reason that any persons should pay 
" equal taxes, and yet have no votes in election." In the revisal of 1657-8, the same 
principle is preserved ; the right of .suJfVage being extended to " all persons inhabiting 
" in the colony, that are phee men." By an act of lG7i», that right was, for the first 
time, confined to free holders only ; and the necessity of this qualification was fur- 
ther enforced by instructions from king Charles II, to sir Wm. Berkeley, governor, in 
1676: " You shall take care," says the second article of the instruction.s, " that the 
"members of the assembly be elected, only by free holders, as being more agreeable 
" to the custome of England, to which you are as nigh as conveniently you can to con- 
form yourselfe." 

Bridges and ferries were at first established and maintained at public expense; but 
this being considered burthensome to the inhabitants of many of the counties, espe- 
cially the poor, who seldom used them; the law, as to ferries, was repealed, and the 
county courts vested with power to establish ferries on the application of individuals, 
and fix their rates. The exclusive right of c:stablishing ferries was afterwards re- 
sumed by the assemblv ; and having exercised it for a .series of years, to the great in- 
terruption of other public business, the iegislnture at the session of ISOf., re^lore(l lo 
tlie county courts the power eyercisei; by iliem s.i ]<<n'/, a":^ as the year 1617. 



599 



CIlArTEH V. 

bacon's UEBELLION HOSTILE DESlUNS OF THE EKENCH. 

Indifference to change in Evglnnd, — Nnvignliim art, — Convicts, — Con' 
spiracy delected, — Discoitlenlf, — Cessation, from tobacco plafiling Jor 
one year, — Royal grants, — Virginia' s remonsirancc, — Success of depu- 
ties, — Indian hostiiilics, — Army raised and disbanded by governor, — 
People petition for an af-my, — elect Bacon commander, — he marches 
without commission and defeats Indians, — pursued by governor, toho 
retreats on hearing of rising at James Toxcn, — Governor makes conces- 
sions, — Bacon prisoner, — is pardoned. — People force commission from, 
governor, — Bacon marches io meet Indians, — hears he is declared a 
rebel by Berkeley, — marches to meet him, — he flees to Accomac, — Con^ 
vent ion called and free government established. — Bacon defeats the 
Indians, — Berkeley obtains possession of the shippiyig, and occupies 
James Toicn, — is beseiged by Bacon, and driven out, — James Toicn 
bihrnt. — Death of Bacon, — character of his enterprise. — Predatory 
warfare, — treaty between governor and hi!> opponents, — Cruelty of 
Berkeley, — King' s commissioners, — Departure of Berkeley awl his 
death. — Acts of Assembly passed during Bacon s in/lnence. — Conduct 
of king^s comfnissioners, — Culpeper governor, — Discontents, — Conduct 
of Beverly. — Howard governor. ^-General conduct of Virginia and 
progress of affairs. — Plan of Callier for dividing the British colonics. 

As Virginia had provided for herself a government substantially free^ 
the political changes in England could have little cflect upon her repose, 
provided no attempt was made to interfere with the freedom of her trade, 
or her local government. She seemed content to be under the protection 
rather than control, of whatever power the people of England thought 
proper to place at the head of affairs, provided Lliat power did not seek to 
extend the conceded authority. In this mood she had adhered to Charles I. 
until the Parliament by its commissioners promised a preservation of all 
her privileges; she aclaiowledged Cromwell upon a similar promise, and 
his son Richard under the same idea; upon his resignation she held her- 
self aloof, thus proving how perfect and how independent was her own 
local government, until the voice of England should declare who should 
rule; and upon the accession of Charles II. she gave in her allegiance to 
him. As in all these British changes she remained unconcerned and un- 
moved, so the last caused neither extraordinary joy or regret. The colo- 
nists thus free from external sources of uneasiness, proceeded to legislate 
upon internal matters ; providing rewards for the encouragement of silk 
and other staples ; negociating with Carolina and Maryland for the adop- 
tion of uniform measures for the improvement of tobacco, and diminishing 
its quantity; and providing for the erection of public buildings, the improve- 
ment of James Town, and other subjects of general utility. 

Whilst the colonists were pioceeding in this useful occupation they were 

1663 ^'^''"**^^ ^y ^^^ intelligence of the recnaction of the navigation act, 

od'""-, with new prohibitions, and armed with new penalties. The 



600 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA 

Virginians had long enjoyed a very beneficial trade with other countries 
besides England, and had early perceived its advantages, often urging the 
propriety of its continuance-, and contending that "freedom of trade was the 
life of a commonwealth." But the object of the navigation act was to con- 
fine its trade exclusivel)^ to England, for the encouragement of English 
shipping and the emolument of English merchants, as w^ell as. the promo- 
tion of the king's revenue ; without regard to the gross injury, done to the 
colony by depriving her of the benefit of competition in her harbors. Tiie, 
colony remonstrated in vain, and continued boldly her trade with all sue-h- 
foreigners as would venture to encounter the risque of being taken by the 
English cruisers and encountering the penalties of the act. 

It appears to have been for some time the practice to send felon.s and 
other obnoxious persons to the colony, to expiate their offences by serving 
the planters for a term of years. At the restoration many of. the veteran 
soldiers of Cromwell to \vhom it was anticipated the'relurn of the .ancieii. 
regime would not be particularly palatable, were- shipped -to Virginia to 
work olT their .'^pleen in the cultivation of tobacco. It appears that this 
new business was not as agreeable to them as they had found the psalm- 
singing and plundering of the royali?ts under the command of their devout 
leader; and they accordingly quickly organized an insurrection, by. the 
operation of which they were to change places with such of their, masters, 
as were left alive by the process. But this outbreaking which sc.en^s..l0- 
have been well planned and extensively organized, was prevented by t.b^e 
compunction of one of their associates, who disclosed the AvJ^oJeafT^ir l§ 
the governor the ev^ening before it was to have gone into effecL; and ade? 
p, , -o quate means were taken to prevent the design. Four ol the con-... 
spirators were executed. B-ut this evil of imppririig- jcui-LurjU 
as they were called, increased to such an e.\ tent that it was prohibited by 
the General Court in 1670, under severe penalties.* 

The increase in the amount of tobacco.raised by the increa.'^e oi i In- < pjoiiy 
T r- ^nrr- and thc Settlement "of IMarvlaRd and Ca rol iua, far oulyLnDped the 
increase of tiistc for it, rapid as that was, and caused such-af; 
glut of the commodity that its price Jell-to an anwunt utterly ruinotis to the 
planter. In this the exclusive privilege of purchase-which England enjoyed, 
notwithstanding the e.vtensive contraband trade, no doubt largely contributed; 
but this the planters could not prevent, and their only remaining resource 
was in diminishing the amount of tobacco raised.. To effect this vani.^it§: 
schemes had been devised, but they were all liablefo^be evaded, and were 
if successful, too partial in their operation to eflect' th^e objpct desired. 
Nothing could be efficient, short of a total rcsxn.linv, from planting for one 
year, and this was at last accomplished after long negotiations with-Mary- 
larid and Carolina. -- --^..^^ 

Many other staples had been recommended fiom time to time to the 
planters, and even encouraged by bounties and rewards, and this year it 
was thought would give them more leisure to attend to the subject. But it 
is not probable that many engaged in the occupations proposed, which re- 
quired the investment of capital, the acquisition of skill, and. the aid of 
time to render them profitable; and the year's leisure only served to increase 
the growing discontent, especially a.'^ towards its cndAIaryland began to 
be suspected of bad fiiith. • • 

♦Hening, v. II. p. 510. 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 601 

There were other causes of discontent which probably prevailed between 
different classes of society. Loud complaint was made of the manner in 
which taxes were levied, entirely on persons without regard to property, 
which as there must have been a very large class of poor free p'-^rsons now 
existing from the frequent emancipation, and expiration of the terms of 
those who came over as servants, besides those who were free but poor 
when they came to the country, must have created considerable excitement. 
An effort was made to remedy this evil by laying a tax on property but 
ineffectually; the only result being a small export duty on tobacco, in aid 
of the general revenue. 

While the taxes bore thus hard upon the poorer portion of the communi- 
ty they also had just reason to complain of exclusion from the right of 
suffrage by an act of 1670, and from the Legislature, to which none but 
freeholders could be chosen ; as well as of the enormous pay which the 
Burgesses appropriated to themselves, of one hundred and fifty pounds of 
tobacco per diem, and one hundred for their horses and servants. The 
forts were also complained of as a source of heavy expenditure without 
any benefit; their chief use indeed being rather injurious, as 'they kept off 
traders who violated the navigation acts. 

But these evils in domestic legislation were trivial compared wilh those 
produced by the criminal prodigality of Charles, who wantonly made 
exorbitant grants to his favorites of large tracts of lands, without a knowl- 
edge of localities, and consequently without regard to the claims or even 
the settlements of others. To cap the climax of royal munificence 
the gay monarch in perhaps a merry mood, granted to Lords Culpeper 
and Arlington the whole colony of Virginia for thirty-one years, with 
privileges effectually royal, as far as the colony was concerned, only re- 
serving some mark of homage to himself This might be considered al 
court perhaps as a small bounty to a favorite, but was taken in a very seri- 
ous light by the forty thousand people thus unceremoniously transferred. 
The Assembly in its extravagance only took from them a great proporlion 
ol their profits ; but the king was filching th^ir capital, their lands, and 
their homes which they had inherited from their fathers, or^laboricusly ac- 
quired by their own strenuous exertion. 

The Legislature sent three deputies to England to remonstrate with the 
king against these intolerable grants, to endeavor to procure his assent to 
some charter which might secure them against &uch impositions for the 
future : and if they should fail in the first of these objects to endeavor to 
buy out the rights of the patentees. To bear the expense of these three 
deputies, Mr. Ludvvell, Mr. Morryson. and JMv. Smith, the enormous annual 
tax of fifty pounds of tobacco was laid upon every tithable person for two 
years, which, though it was for a popular object, was considered as of its<^lf 
an intolerable grievance, at which we cannot wonder when we reflect that 
many who had to pay this tax did not own a foot of land. The amourt 
can only be accounted for by supposing much of it was to be used as secret 
service motiey, with such of hio majesty's minions as could only see justice 
through a golden medium. 

These deputies e.verted themselves uith remarkable success, and pro- 
cured from the king an order for a charter, preeiiely in conformity to the 
petition which they presented, and providing against the grievances oi 
which they complained; especially grants from the crown without infor- 
mation from the rrovf-rnor and coiuicil in Virginia that c-uch grant would 
76- 



602 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

be of no injury; dependence immediately upon the crown of England and 
not on any subfeudatory ; and exemption from taxation without consent of 
the Grand Assembly. His majesty ordered the solicitor general and attor- 
ney general to prepare a bill embodying these and the other matters em- 
braced in their petition in due legal form for his signature ; but the matter, 
notwithstanding the most assiduous attention of the deputies, was so long 
delayed in going through the official forms that it was finally stopped, be- 
fore its completion, in the Hanaper office, by the news of Bacon's Rebel- 
lion.* 

Soon after the deputies left Virginia, the difTiculties of the colony had 
been increased by the addition of an Indian war, which although not now 
as formerly a matter causing danger of destruction to the whole colony, 
and requiring all its strength to repel it, was yet a subject of great terror 
and annoyance to the frontier. 

A standing army of five hundred men, one-fourth of which was to consist 
Mar 7 1675 °^ •^'^^''^'''7' '^'^^^ ^^'^^^ by the Legislature, and every provision 
made for their support and regulation ;t but after It was raised 
and in a complete state of preparation to march against the Indians, it was 
suddenly disbanded by the governor without any apparent cause. ;}: This was 
followed by earnest petitions to the governor from various quarters of the coun- 
try, to grant a commission to some person to chastise the Indians, the petition- 
ers offering to serve in the expedition at their own expense. This reasonable 
request was refused, and the people seeing their country left defenceless to 

^the inroads of a savage foe, assembled of themselves in their primary 
'Capacity, in virtue of their right of self-defence, to march against the ene- 

' my. They chose for their leader Nathaniel Bacon, junior, a young gen- 
■tleman of highly respectable family and education, who although he had 
returned to Virginia but three years before, from the completion of his 
studies in England, had already received the honor of a colonel's rank in 
the militia and a seat in the Legislature for Henrico, in wh-'ch county his 
estate lay, — exposed by its situation to the fury of the Indians. He stood 
high in the colony, and was possessed of courage, talent and address 
which fitted him well for such an enterprise. After Bacon had been selected 
:by this volunteer army as their leader, his first step was to apply to the 
governor for a commission, in order if possible to have the sanction of the 
legitimate authorities for his conduct. The governor evaded this rational 
and respectful request, by saying that he could not decide upon so impor- 
tant a matter without his council, which he summoned to consult, at the 
same time artfully hinting to Bacon the injury which he migiit probably 

•*0o himself by persevering in his course. i^ Baron despatched messengers 
to James Town to receive the commi&siun which he did not doubt would 
be ultimately granted ; and as public impatience would not abide the dila- 
tory proceedings of the governor, and he was probably nettled at the in- 
sinuations addressed to his selfishness, in the governor's conmnmication, — 
he proceeded on his expedition, authorized only by the will of the pepple, 
the danger of the country, and the anxious wish of those who trusted their 
lives to liis conirol. 



»Heriicg, vol II. p. 531. 

t Henmg, vol. 11. 327. 

t Breviare and Conclusnm in Burke v. II. p. 2.')(>. 

9 Ancient Records quoted by Burk, vol. II. p. 163. 



niSTnRY OF VIKCJIMA. 609 

Sir William Berkeley, (wliose coudurt nolwitlistanding- the high enco* 
miums bestowed upon him, seems to have been marked in ordinary times 
only by a haughty condescension, which in his excellency was called suavity 
of manners, and in times of difficulty, by vacillating imbecility,) after tem- 
porising in the most conciliating manner with Bacon until bis departure, 
now denounced him and his followers as mutineers and traitors for daring 
to defend their country after his excellency had refused them a commission; 
and gathering together such forces as he could collect consisting princi- 
pally of the wealthy aristocrats in the settled country, who probably liked 
the mode of taxation which was least injurious to them, and who .iufiered 
little from Indian incursions upon the frontier, he marched to put down the 
rebellious troops. He had not proceeded further than the (alls of James 
river, when he received intelligence of a rising in the neighborhood of 
James Town of a more formidal)le nature than Bacon's, which compelled 
him to retreat and lake care of affairs at home. This new ebullition of 
feeling was headed by Ingram and Walklate, and was probably produced 
by the indignation of the common people at the absurd conduct of the 
governor in first refusing a commission to Bacon, and then marching to 
destroy him, whilst engaged in so useful an occupation ; be this as it may, 
we find them insisting upon dismantling the forts which were intolerably 
oppressive, without producing any good effect against an enemy whose 
progress was by stealth, whose onset was sudden and furious, and whose 
retreat was immediate. Against such an enemy active operations in the 
field were required, and the vigorous prosecution of the war in liis own 
country. The forts probably were, regarded by the poor as instruments of 
power in the hands of the rich; whicii they kept up by oppressive acts 
whilst they took measures to put down Bacon's operations, which consti- 
tuted the only hope which the pex>ple had for protection. The governor 

*'was obliged to yield to the storm. -The forts were ordered to be dismant- 
led, and the obnoxious Assembly W&.S dissolved, and writs issued for a new 
election, in which for the first time freemen, as distinguished from freehold- 
ers, were elected. ., ; ..v.*.".;-.- , 

In the mean time Bacon had been very stKceessful in defeating the In- 
dians, destroying their towns, and taking them captive, and Avas returning 
leisurely to James Town when he heard of the revolution there. This 
induced him to leave his little army and with a few followers embark for 

•-James Town, but he was taken on his voyage by Gardiner who was cruis- 
ing to intercept him ; and sent a prisoner to the governor. Bacon had 
been elected a member for Henrico in the new Legislature, and was par- 
doned and permitted to take his seat upon his confessing the impropriety 
and disobedience of his conduct, praying pardon of the governor and pro- 
-•nising future obedience. Credible report* says that he was induced to 
make this full and humiliating acknowledgmentf upon a promise by the 
governor not only of pardon but of a commission ; and indeed without 
supposing it the result of a compromise, it is difficult to account either for 
this act, or his subsequent conduct. 'I'he causes which induced his next 
step are not sufficiently explained by the historians of the times, but it 
was probably produced by the solicitations of bis friends in the Legislature, 
who found that they could gain no redress of grievances. He collected 

♦See Breviareand Conclu.suni in Burk, v. II. p. ^.M. 
t Helling, v. II. p. 5i:}. 



604 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

troops in the country, and marched to James Town ; he surrounded the 
state house with his enraged soldiers, demanding a commission for him, 
which by the earnest solicitation of the Council and Assembly was at 
length obtained from the governor, together with a full act of indemnity 
for his present conduct, and a letter highly applauding his designs and his 
proceedings addressed to the king and signed by the Burgesses, the Coun- 
cil and the governor. 

Thus relieved from all former sources of fear and provided against fu- 
ture contingencies Bacon again sallied forth towards the frontier. But 
the governor had not long been relieved from his preseiice before he dis- 
solved the Assembly and retiring into Gloucester again declared Bacon a 
rebel and his army traitors, and raised the standard of opposition. Upon 
being informed of this Bacon immediately fell back by forced marches 
upon Gloucester, and compelled his puissant excellency to retreat with 
precipitation to Accoraac. This county was at that time considered as a 
distinct territory although under the control of Virginia, and Bacon taking 
advantage of this against an unpopular governor, called a convention for 
the purpose of settling the government, declaring that the governor had 
abdicated. This convention met at Middle Plantation on the third of 
August, 1676, and declared that the governm.ent was vacant by the abdi- 
cation of Sir William Berkeley, and that by invariable usage the council 
or the people might fill the vacancy until the king's pleasure should be 
known. Writs were then issued by five* members of the council ibr a 
new election of Burgesses. The convention next declared Sir William 
Berkeley guilty of aiding and abetting certain evil disposed persons in 
fomenting and stirring up the people to civil war ; and that they would aid 
in discovering all such evil disposed persons and opposing their forces 
until the king be fully informed of the state of the case; and that they 
would aid Bncon and his army against the common enemy, and in sup- 
pres. Id . i|; iiniii-i (Miirages and murders daily committed by them. 

Bacu.i iwiviiig i!o\v provided a regular government for the country pro- 
ceeded once more again.5t ti)^-._J[ndia,ns, .who had formed a confederacy and 
gained several advantages since his retreat. He destroyed the Pamunkey, 
Chickahoniiny and Mattaponi towns and their corn, in retaliation of the 
late e,\cesses. The Indians retreated before him, with 0(xasional skir- 
mishes until they reached their place of general rendezvous near the falls 
of James river. He there found their whole force posted on an eminejcice 
overhanging a stream which from the sanguinary nature of the conflict 
has been since called Bloody Run. They were protected by a stockade 
fort, which was stormed by the impetuous ardor of Bacon and his follow- 
ei-s, who made great slaughter arnong them, encumbered as they were with 
their old men, women and children. .^ 

In the mean time Berkeley had not met with that warm reception which 
he had anticipated amongst the loyalists of Accomac, but on the other 
hand he had been presented with a strong and spirited remonstrance against 
the objectionable acts of Parliament, and a requisition that they should be 
suspended at least so far as regarded that portion of the country. How 
the matter terminated v»-e are not informed. 



* Burk, vol. II. p. 179, say.s — by Bacon and four other members of the Council, but 
the member of the Council was "Nathaniel Bacon, sen., and the General was Nath'l 
Bacon, jun., delegn,te for ficnrico. — Hening, vol. II. p. 544-5. 



HISTORY OF VIRCINIA, B05 

The governor was not allowed to remain undisturbed in Accomac, until 
he could again succeed in raising a force which might give trouble. Ba- 
con's party u as in possession of all the vessels in the colony, and two of 
his friends, Giles Bland and William Carver, went with their force to cut 
off supplies from the governor, or as his friends surmised, to surprise him. 
But if such was their object they were defeated, for Capt. Larimore from 
whom one of the vessels had been taken, gave intimation to the governor's 
friends that he would betray his vessel into the hands of a party sufficient- 
ly strong to keep possession. The proposal was acceded to, and at mid- 
night six and twenty men, obeying Laiimorc's signal, were along side of 
his ship and had possession almost before the crew were aroused from 
their slumbers; the other vessels were then easily taken. Thus Sir Wil- 
liam finding himself in possession of the whole naval force of the colony 
whilst Bacon was absent in his expedition against the Indians, he collected 
together a force of some six hundred men, consisting mostly of aristocratic 
ge'ntlemen and their servile dependants, and took possession once more of 
James Town. As usual bis first act in returning to poAver was to disavow 
his acts in favor of Bacon as made under duress, and again to declare him 
a rebel, and his soldiers traitors. 

Bacon was on his return from his successful campaign w^hen this news 
reached him; most of his followers had dispersed, but he hastened on with 
the remainder without regard to their fatigues in the recent campaign. 
He arrived before James Town late in the evening, fired his artillery and 
sounded a defiance, and then cooly dismounted and laid off' his trenches. 
His men that very night by the aid of trees, earth and brush-wood formed 
a tolerable breast-work, and the next morning advanced to the palisadoes 
of the town and fired upon the guard, without loss. Sir William Berke- 
ley well knowing that time would increase the force of his adversary 
whilst it diminished his own, next resolved to try the effects of a sally, and 
some of his men at first behaved u-ith some show of courage, but the whole 
body soon retreated in disorder before the well directed fire of Bacon's 
men, leaving their drum and their dead as trophies to the victors. Bacon 
would not allow the victory to be followed up, as it would have placed his 
men under the range of the guns of the shipping. To prevent the use 
which might be made of this auxiliar}^, he planted several great guns, so 
as to beai^on the ships, which served also to alarm though they could not 
a>»noy the town. 

Now the marked difference which existed between the character of Ba- 
con's troops and those of the governor was exhibited, and that too in a man- 
ner well calculated to exhibit the character of Bacon's proceedings. 
Berkeley's troops consisting principally of mercenary wretches, Avhom he 
bad scraped together by the hopes of plunder, deserted every day when 
they found that'the governor was determined to defend the place, and that 
they were likely to get more blows than booty in the contest, until at last 
the governor was left with little more than twenty gentlemen, whose sense 
of honor would not allow them to desert his person. Bacon's troops on the 
other hand were daily reinforced by accessions from the country people, 
who clearly considered him as an intrepid soldier who had delivered them 
from the butcheries of the savages, and a patriot who was now endeavor- 
ing to put down an odious and oppressive government. 

The governor finding his followers reduced to so small a number that it 
would be madnes.s 1o attempt to defend the place, at length yielded to the 



606 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

earnest solicitations of those about him, and deceiving his adversaries as to 
his real design by exhibiting evidences of a contemplated attack, he went 
on board a ship at midnight and was seen next morning riding at anchor 
beyond the reach of the guns in the fort at James Town. Bacon with his 
followers, after their week's seige marched into the empty tOAvn the next 
morning, the governor and his party having carried off or destroyed every 
article of value. The possession of James Town in this situation was of 
no advantage to Bacon or his followers. The men who had left their 
homes to defend their country from the incursions of the Indians, could 
not remain together for the purpose of defending the capital from their 
hostile governor, who was quietly waiting in the river for them to depart, in 
order that he might again resume possession. What could be done with 
a town which could not be defended, and if defended was of no value to the 
possessors; but which was all-important to the enemy? The answer to 
this question was manifest, and Bacon's proposal for its destruction was 
received with acclamation ; several of his followers, who owned the most 
valuable houses, applying the firebrand with their own hands to their own 
property. The sight of the flames started Sir William Berkeley on a 
cruize to Accomac ; and Bacon having overcome all opposition to the 
government established by the convention, dismissed his troops to their 
homes. 

We have little account of Bacon's proceedings after this successful ter- 
mination of his labors; we presume he did not do much as he was ill of a 
disease caught by sleeping exposed in the trenches before Jamestown, 
which in a short time terminated his existence. He died at the house of a 
Mr. Pate in Gloucester county. Thus died the distinguished individual, 
who overcame both the foreign and domestic enemies of his country, and 
^eft it enjoying the blessings of a free government. Had he lived precisely 
a century later he would have been one of the distinguished heroes of the 
fevolulion, and historians would have delighted as much in eulogizing Kts 
conduct as they have, under existing circumstances in blackening his cha- 
racter. He accomplished »\\ which it was possible for him to do. He 
pever opposed the British government but only foreign enemies, and do- 
mestic mal-administration, which he succeeded in defeating. He seems al- 
ways to have acted by the consent and wish of the people, and never to 
^ave sought self-agrandizement. It was manifestly impossible for him to 
elevate himself to absolute power in Virginia without the consent of the 
government in England, and the people of Virginia; and the idea of resist- 
ing both of these powers was absurd. For all the evils which accrued to 
the country after his death, and the restoration of Sir William Berkeley, he 
has been unjustly made responsible, whilst he has received no credit for his 
good conduct, or the beneficial acts passed by the legislature during his as- 
cendency. In short we can see no difference between his course, and that 
pursued in the previous expulsion of Sir John Harvey from the government, 
or the subsequent treatment of Lord Dunmore and many other royal go- 
vernors at the commencement of the revolution. The only difference be- 
tween the patriots of 1676 and 1776 was in the establishment of a free go- 
vernment, subject to the general controul of Great Britain, which was all 
that could be done in 1676, and the establishment of a free government in- 
dependent of Great Britain, which was accomplished in 1776. The unfor- 
tunate death of Bacon, and the power of the mother country, destroyed in 
a great measure the benefit of the exertion of the little ]»and of patriots of 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 607 

the first period, whilst the benefit of the latter have coiitiniied to exist. The 
loyal writers after the re-establishment of Ber^veley, sought to hide his pu- 
sillanimity by extolling his virtues, and blackening his adversary, in which 
they have been blindly followed by other writers, who have attribut- 
ed llie subsequent misery to the pruvious rebellion instead of to the avarice, 
malignity and revenge of the governor and his party, seeking to overawe 
and suppress popular indignation, and break the strength of the popular 
party by the forcible exertion of arbitrary authority, as w-ell as to avenge 
themselves for the indignities to which their own folly subjected them. On 
the other hand the patriots of the revolution have only received the just re- 
ward of their merit, in the lavish praises of a grateful posterity; and the 
loyal party of their day, has been justly handed down to universal execra- 
tion.* 

* It will be seen that we have formed a more favorable opinion of Bacon and his co- 
adjutors than has been generally expressed. This opinion was formed by a hasty 
perusal of all the documents to be found on the subject in Hening and Burke. We 
have followed in our account of his life the Breviare and Conclusum in Burke, which 
we believe is authentic; 1st. Because it was written by the king's commissioners, 
who would naturally be in favor of government, and were sent over at the special in- 
stance of Sir William Berkeley and upon his representations ; 2nd. Becau.se their ac- 
count is impartial, and consistent with itself and with other evidence; 3rd. Because 
they took every means to inform themselves, and could not have been infected with 
the warm partizan feeling of either side; 4th. And lastly, because the "justification 
of Sir William Berkeley," which M-as manifestly written by a warm friend and parti- 
zan, whilst it denies the truth of the Breviare and Conclusum, with regard to Sir 
William's conduct subsequent to the rebellion, does not deny its truth with regard to* 
the history of the rebellion itself. 

We see no act of aggression on the part of Bacon; the civil war is always 
commenced by the governor, whilst Bacon's attention is constantly diverted 
to hostilities with the Indians. We do not see Bacon arrogating power to 
himself but to the people. We find him after his first conduct acknowledging 
himself in error and asking pardon, and when we .see him afterwards bringing 
citizens to Jamestown, it is not to put supreme power into his own hands or to over- 
awe the legislature which was favorable to him, but it is to force the governor by the 
clamors of the people, to give him the commission wJ^ch was so necessary to the pre- 
servation of the colonists from the incursions of the savages. When he obtains this 
commission we do not see him use it agamst his country but its enemies. But the go- 
vernor first signs an indemnity, and even a letter to the king justifying and extolling 
the conduct of Bacon, and then when he is out of sight declares him a rebel and a 
traitor and prepares troops to oppose him, not in making war upon his country, but in 
actually fighting the Indians under his commission, and after his letter of praise. 
tjTnder these circumstances, when the govemor acted in a manner so friendly to the 
Indians and so hostile to the country, it was the duty of every honest man to resist his 
efforts, and to deprive him of his authority, to prevent his ruining the country which 
he ought to have protected. This Bacon "did. But did he then seize the reins of go- 
vernment, and play the tyrant,— no, he defeated the Indians, and would have di.-^- 
banded his army, had not the governor put down the government which the pcopie 
established, and a^ain set up his own authoritv, and declared Bacon's gallant little 
army traitors. Would it have been just to have then disbanded them to become the 
victims of his vengeance 1 Surely not. But it was his dutv to drive out the hostile 
governor, and establish the power of the people, and then retire. 

We may obtain much light upon the subject of Bacon's character and conduct by 
observing that an immense majority of the people were alwavs on his side, and that 
he acted by their advice and authurity as far as po.ssible. The governor was only 
sustained by a few haughty aristocrats of his o\ra stamp,— his warmest friends admit 
(Burke, vol. II. p. I8.'i,') that when he went to Accoinac he had not more than 20 men 
to stand by him; and that most of his followers in his return to Jamestown, were des- 
picable wretches, who were only induced to take sides with him against their country 
by the protnise of plunder, to be taken from the discomfitted rebels. TBreviare and 
Conclusum: Burke, vol- II. p. 2.52.) 



608 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

The death of Bacon, by leaving the republicans without a head, revived 
the courage of the governcir so far, that he ventured in his ships to move 
about upon the bay and rivers and attack the inhabitants wherever he could 
find them defenceless, and snatch a little plunder to gratify his needy fol- 
lowers; always retiring when the opposite party appeared to oppose him. 
This predatory species of warfare, preventing the quiet pursuit of agricul- 
tural labors, and destroying all the comfort and happiness of society with- 
out producing any beneficial result, soon grew wearisome to both parties. 
Sir William Berkeley whose cruelties, especially to his prisoners* had 
gone far to keep up the enthusiasm of popular excitement, finding that his 
name had ceased to strike that awe which habitual respect for one high in 
authority had formerly given it, and that his punishments excited indigna- 
tion rather than terror, felt disposed to take advantage by milder means of 
the returning pacific disposition on the part of a people whose stubborn 
tempers could not be brought into obedience by force. With this view 
he treated his prisoners with more liberality, published an act of general in- 
demnity, and proposed a treaty of peace to Ingram and Walklate, the prin- 
cipal leaders oi the opposing party since the death of Bacon. So anxious 
were the people to be relieved from the present confusion and anarchy, and 
the governor once more to rule with uncurbed svvay, that a treaty was 
speedily concluded, onlj'- stipulating on the part of the governor a general 
oblivion, and indemnity of past offences, and on the part of his opponents a 
surrender of their arms and a restoration of such property as they had 
taken. Thus easily did these unfoitunate men deliver themselves again 
into the lions power, after having defeated him at all points, and inflicted 
deep and irremediable wounds upon his inflated vanity, and pompous mock- 
dignity. The governor when he had his enemies in his power, instead of 
trying to heal the wounds of the bleeding state by mildness and concilia- 
tion, only added to its sufferings by a bloody retribution for all the trouble 
which he had been made to endure. Fines and confiscations for the bene- 
fit of his excellency became the order of the day, and an occasional execu- 
tion as an extra treat to his vengeance. He at first attempted to wrest the 
honest juries of the county to his purpose, but in vain, — ten prisoners were 
acquitted in a single day. Finding that his enemies were thus likely to 
escape his grasp by the unflinching integrity, and sense of justice prevailing 
among the people, he determined to avoid (he use of a court constituted 
upon principles of the English constitution, which he found so little subser- 
vient to his will; and tried his next victims under martial law. He here 
found a court of more congenial spirits. The commissioners of the king 
give an account of some of these trials, such as they were carried on even 
after their arrival, which mark well the spirit of the times. " We also ob- 
served some of the royal party, that sat on the bench with us ai the trial, to 
be so forward in impeaching, accusing, reviling, the prisoners at bar, with 
that inveteracy, as if they had been the worst of witnesses, rather than jus- 
tices of the commission; both accusing anri condemning at the same time. 
This severe way of proceeding represented to the afrsembly, they voted an 
address to the governor, that he would desist from any further sanguinary 
punishments, for none could tell when or where it would terminate. So 
the governor was prevailed on to hold his hands, after hanging 23. "f 

A notable way which the governor adopted to replenish his purse 

♦See Sarah Drummond's petition,— Henin?, vol. II. p. 558. 
tBreviare and Conclusum in Binkc, vol. II. p. 258. 



HISTORY 01-' VIRCJINIA. 609 



slier liic disasters ol the war, was to relieve llie rebels from a trial in one of 
his courts martial, in which they were to be condemned, upon their paying 
him a great portion of their estates, by way of compromise. This method 
of disposing of nlen's estates without trial or conviction was protested 
atrainst by his majesty's commissioners as a gross violation of the laws of 
Hug-land, but which Sir William's friends seem to thtnk only a just retri- 
bution for the losses sustained by himself and the royal party during the 
rebellion,.* Enormous fines payable in provision were also found a conve- 
nient method of providing for the king's troops which had been sent over 
lo subdue the colony. 

His majesty's commissioners fortunately arrived in time to stay the wrath 
of the vindictive old man, who would as an eye witness says, " he verily 
believes, have hanged half the county if they had let him alone."t They 
urged him in vain to publish the king's proclamation of a general pardon 
and indemnity, and then proceeded to hold their commission for hearing 
and redressing grievances. As the proceedings of the governor difTused a 
gloom, the generality of which was co-extensive with the immense num- 
bers that were engaged in the rebellion, so did the proceedings of the com- 
missioners spread a universal joy. Crowds of persons now came forward 
to present their grievances; widows and orphans to ask for the confiscated 
cstites of their husbands, and fathers who had been butchered by the mili- 
tary tribunals of the governor; others come in to complain of the seizing 
their estates without the form of a trial, cind many who had submitted them- 
selves upon the governor's proclamation of indemnity and pardon, con- 
plained of subsequent imprisonment and confiscations of their property. 

The commissioners state in their report to the king and council,— that 
" in the whole course of their proceedings they had avoided receiving any 
complaints of public grievances; but by and under the hand of the most cred- 
ibli!, loyal and sober persons of each county, with caution, that they did not 
do it in any mutinous manner, and without mixture of their old leaven, but 
in such sort as might become dutiful subjects and sober, rational men to 
present." When they found that all their renresentatioiis to Sir William 
Berkeley, to endeavor to induce him to restore ftie confiscated estates, which 
.were in the possession of himself or his most faithful friends, were in vain, 
they ascertained as many of the possessors as possible, and riaade them give 
security to take care of^them, until his majesty should determine as to the 
restitution, which they recommended him to make. The commissioners 
also 'devised several matters of utility for the peace, good government and 
safety of the colony, which ihey recommended his majesty to adopt. Sir 
William Berkeley returned in the fleet to England, leaving Sir Herbert 
Jeffries, who had been sent over with the commissioners, as governor — 
Upon his arrival he found that his cruel conduct in Virginia was looked 
upon with horror by most of his former friends, and the council and was 
not sustained by the king, subservient loyally to whom had been the source 
and'sprino- of "his high-handed measures. The old knight, thus finding 
himself execrated in Virginia, and despised in England, soon .languished 
and died under the load of infomy, with which he had crushed the fair fame 
of his earlier years. Thus ended the life of Sir William Berkeley, a go- 
vernor whose early character historians have delighted to honor, and 



♦ Jusiilk-ation of Bcrkcloy, in Burke, vol. II. p. -263. 
tprc^sly, quoted in Burke, vol. 11. p. •208. 
77 



610 HlSTOfiY OF VIRGINIA 

whose subsequent conduct lliey have sought to ex(;usc: but of whom we can 
find nothing better upon record, than the negative merit of not opposing the 
legislature in its schemes of government, in the early part of his reign; but 
whose latter years are disgraced by cowardly imbccillity, and stained with 
crane. 

Before we take leave of the transaction which has been termed in com- 
plaisance to the royal governor, Bacon's Rebellion, it may not be amiss to 
cast a hurried glance at the laws passed by the Legislature which met 
under his influence; which must go far with posterity in determining 
whether the name of rebels or patriots would be most consistent with the 
character of their acts. They strike first at the most important and pres- 
sing subject, and the one which had been most neglected, — the Indian war. 
They provide efficient means for conducting it, and for regulating the 
army. The next act prescribed regulations for Indian trading, the abuse 
of which was thought to have been very mischievous. They next pray 
his majesty's governor and council that tlie lands which had been set apart 
at the last peace exclusively for the Indians, and which had been or might 
be subsequently deserted by them, might not be granted away to individu- 
als, but might be used for the purpose of defraying the expenses of the 
war. The fourth act looks very little like an encouragement of rebellion, 
— reciting that tumults, riots and unlawful assemblies had recently been 
frequent, they make it the duty of every officer, civil and military in the 
country, to aid in suppressing them, and the duty of all citizens to assist 
suorh officers under penally of punishment for refusal, and the gocernor is 
specially requested to assemble a force at the public charge with all possi- 
ble expedition, to suppress such tH.imults, and inflict condign punishment 
upon the oftenders; which says the act "will conduce to the great safety 
and peace of this country, and enable us the better to defend ourselves 
against the barbarous and common enemy." This single act sheds more 
light upon the history of the times and exhibits more plainly the history 
of the views of the principal actors than any or perhaps all other docu- 
ments ; we see in it the reason why no private persons took advantage of 
the unsettled state of affairs to disturb the public peace, and that there was 
no tumult or armed force except the regular army raised by the Assembly 
and put under Bacon's command, and no rebellious assembly except the 
miscreant crew raised by Berkeley in opposition to the government estab- 
lished by the people. 

Having thus provided for safety from foes without and for peace within, 
the Assernbly next proceeded to the investigation of abuses by civil officers. 
Under this head they made several provisions for the prevention of abuses, 
which have been found so well devised that they have continued in use to 
the present day. They next provide against the long continuance of ves- 
tries in office ; for the election of burgesses by freemen as well as freeholders, 
and against false returns of burgesses. Their eishth act provides against, 
abuses committed by the justices in laying county levies, and requires that a 
number of discreet men chosen by the people, equal in number to the jus- 
tices appointed by the governor, should act with the justices in laying the 
county levy. They next empowered the county courts to select their own 
collectors of county levies and dues; and prohibit any member of the 
council from sitting on the county court bench. Passing some ai'ts of less 
general importance, but which were wise and useful, we come to an act of 
general pardon and indemnify for all crimes committed between the fir^t of 



HlS'l'oHY OF VIRGINIA. 611 

Maii'li ami twentyiirtli of hme, passed "out of a lioarty and pious desire 
to put an end to all suits and fontroversies, that by occasion o( the late 
fatal distractions liave arisen," "ami to bury all seeds ot future discord and 
remembrance of anything whereby the citizens might be obnoxious to atiy 
pains or penalties whatsoever." 

Their last act ^t'prives Edward Hill and John Stith (brever of the right 
to hold any office of trust, judicature, or profit, because it was notoriously 
manifest that they had been the greatest instrunients in raising, promoting, 
and stirring up the late differences and misunderstanding that had arisen 
between the honorable governor and his majesty's good and loyal subjects. 
The acts of this Assembly were signed by Berkeley in all due form, but 
were subsequently all declared void, though many of them were re-enacted 
by the Legislature, which under the induence and control of Berkeley, de- 
clared them void. 

Although tlie people of Virgmia had laid down tlieir arms they were 
not subdued, but continued to manifest through their Legislature the same 
undaunted tenacity of their rights which had ever characterised them. 
This was exhibited towaids the king's commissioners in one of the boldest 
defences of privilege which the records of any nation can exhibit, and 
shows how strongly imbued with the spirit of freedom the people must 
have been when they could snuff the approach of tyranny at such a dis- 
tance, and put themselves on their defence against tlieir friends, lest their 
enemies might take advantage of their concessions. The king's commis- 
sioners were empower-^d to call for persons and papers, for the purpose of 
prosecuting more effectually their inquiries into the grievances of the colo- 
ny. In conformity with their powers they called upon the secretary of 
the Legislature for its journals, but were surprised to find that although 
their proceedings were popular, and their object was to investigate and re- 
dress grievances of which these very men complained, that they refused to 
allow Uiem to inspect their journals, returning for answer that it was a 
dangerous precedent which might be used in violation of their priviliges. 
At this time the governor and commissioners had complete physical power 
over the colony by the entire absence of anything like organized opposi- 
tion, and from the presence of the king's troops : and availing themselves 
of this power they did not hesitate to wrest the journals of the A.ssembly 
from the hands of its oHicer by force. Upon which the Virginia Assem- 
bly published a bold and manly declaration, .setting forth "that his majesty's 
commissioners having called for and forced from the clerk of the Assembly 
all the original journals of the Assembly, which power they supposed his 
majesty would not grant them, for that they find not the same to have been 
practised by any of the kings of England, and did therefore take the same 
to be a violation of their privileges, desiring wilhall satisfaction to be given 
them that they might be assured no such violation of their privileges should 
be offered for the future." The king was so much displeased with this 
declaration, that although he pardoned the members of the Legislature, he 
directed the record of it to be erased, and required the governor to propose 
a bill to the next General Assembly condemning the proceeding, and de- 
claring the right of his majesty and his officers to call for all the public 
records and journals whenever" they shall think it necessary for his royal 
service.* 

♦Hejiiiis:, vel. II. p. 561. 



1312 HISTORY OF VIROTNIA. 

Sir Herbert Jeffries deserves the merit due to an advantaovous treaty with 
the Indians, and a successful opposition to the petty intrig\ies of the loyal- 
ists. He died in 1678, leaving the colony in the hands of the Lieutenant 
governor, Sir Henry Chickerly, during whose administration magazines 
and forts were established at the heads of the four great rivers to overawe 
the savages, and a silly act passed prohibiting the importation of tobacco 
from Carolina and Maryland for the purpose of transhipment, wliich praC' 
tice if they had suffered it to continue might have proved very profitable to 
the colonj^, besides putting the tobacco trade more exclusively into its own 
hands. In the succeeding spring Sir Henry delivered the government to 
Lord Culpeper. The first act of his lordship was to declare full and un- 
qualified indemnity to all for their conduct in Bacon's rebellion, and allow- 
ing reparation to those who should be reproached for their conduct upon 
that occasion. This popular act, added to the pleasing and conciliatory 
manners of his lordship, so won upon the good-natured simplicity of the 
Assembly, that they passed an act which probably no force could have ex» 
torted from them. They raised the duties and made them perpetual instead 
of annual as before, and what was at once surrendering up the great bul- 
wark of that freedom for the safety of which they had been so long con- 
tending, they made the duties henceforth subject to his majesty's sole direc-i- 
tion and disposal. 

The king rewarded Culpeper's address in obtaining this acquisition to 
his power, by the addition of a thousand pounds to his salary and one hun- 
dred and sixty pounds per annum for his rent. The Assembly too, as if 
they could not do enough for a royal governor who could condescend to 
smile upon them, granted his excellency a regular duty proportionate to 
the tonnage of every vessel trading. to Virginia. Culpeper having thus 
obtained a considerable increase to his revenue by his trip to Virginia, 
proceeded to England to enjoy it, leaving the colony once more with Sij' 
Henry Chicherly. 

The discontents of the people again began to extend to a degree wliich 
eould scarcely be kept within bounds. The troops which had been sent 
over to suppress Bacon's Rebellion were still kept up. There Avere no 
barracks and the people positively refused to receive these idle and trou- 
blesome drones into their houses, although they were regularly billeted by 
the government. The low price of tobacco too w^as a never failing source 
of complaint, as well as the commercial regulations which aided in pro- 
ducing it. The colony had urged Culpeper to exert his influence at court 
to procure a cessation from planting, to which they had for some time in 
vain endeavored to obtain the assent of Carolina and Maryland. 

To these evils another was now added which struck another blow at 
commerce. The idea had been conceived that the colony could not pros- 
per without towns, and to promote their growth the planters living pri^ici- 
pally on the shores of the magnificent Chesapeake and the broad naviga- 
ble rivers of Virginia, were required to bring their produce to particular 
spots for the purpose of being shipped. Thus taxing the planter with 
unnecessary ireight and commission for the benefit of such idlers as might 
congregate in the towns. These acts were enforced by heavy penalties, 
and as they contributed very much to the benefit of the town's people, the 
penalty for the violation was rigorously enforced. These prosecutions 
drove many traders from the country, and the poor planters to whom it 
^vns physically impossible to ronvey their crops to these paper-towns, wrrc 



HISTORY (>f VIRGINIA. G13 

(Joomod to soo tliPi'r crops rolling on their hands by this injudicious legis- 
lation, or if they attempted to evade the law, have them wrested from them iu 
the shape of penalties.* These several subjects of complaint induced the 
people of several counties to petition the deputy governor to call an assem- 
bly, to endeavor to provide a remedy for the evils. At the meeting of the 
Assembly, there was much debate and declamation upon the condition of 
the country, but no measure of relief was adopted. By order of the king" 
however the two comjianies of infantry were paid ofi' and disbanded, which 
put an end to one of the subjects of difficulty. The dissolution of the As- 
sembly without effecting anything caused the impatience of the poor and 
ignorant people of several of the counties to break through all restraint, 
and expend their wrath in the destruction of tobacco plants, at a season of 
the year when it was too late to sow more seed. Sir Henry Chicherly 
wHh commendable moderation only took measures to stop these misguided 
people, without resorting to harsh punishments, but lest it should be drawn 
into a precedent, the Legislature not long afterwards made it treason.! In 
the mean time LordCulpeper arrived, and his haughty bearing to the Council 
and the Burgesses soon gave intimation to them that his Lordship's feelings 
towards the colony had undergone a change. He enlarged, in his speech 
to the Assembly, much upon the favor of his majesty in disbanding the 
troops, and spoke of permission which he had obtained to raise the value 
of the current coin, — he then went on to declare that the colonists did not 
deserve these gracious favors, but rather punishment for their recent turbu- 
lence ; he also expressed his majesty's great dissatisfaction at the refusal of 
the journals, and desired that that portion of their proceedings should be 
expunged. 

The Assembly expressed their gratitude for the concessions w-liich had 
been made by the king, but at the same time with admirable good sense, 
and a knowledge of the principles of commerce which shows that they 
were not acting blindfold with regard to the alterations in the price of tobacco 
heretofore alluded to, protested by a large majority against raising the 
value of the coin ; stating as a reason that the exercise of this dangerous 
power would be made a precedent, and specie which of course as the 
standard of other value should be as fixed as possible itself, would be blown 
about by the breath of the governor, and the people would have no cer- 
tainty of the value of the coin in their pockets. They stated moreover 
that it was the duty of the Legislature to enact all laws for the regulation 
of commerce, and of course to prescribe the current price of specie, and 
they accordingly introduced a bill for that purpose; but this bill, which 
was necessary, as the coins of many different countries were in circulation, 
was stopped short in its progress by the governor, who declared that it was 
trespassing upon executive prerogative, and that he would veto any bill 
which the legislature might pass upon the subject. He then proceeded to 
fix the value iiimself by proclamation, raising the (uirrent price considera- 
bly, Init making exception o-f his own salary and the revenue of the king. 
This exception was in effect nothing more or less than a new tax of the 
most odious and oppressive character, and the colony plainly recognised it 
as such, and refused to regard the exceptions, but paid the revenue as other 
debts according to the new standard. And the governor afraid to bring 



■^Heninsr, vol. II. 561-2-3., and Burk, vol. 11. p. 230. 
tllening, vol. III. p. 11. 



CAi HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

such a case bofure any eourt of law, which he well knew would expose 
his contemptible meanness, and yet afraid to allow his proclamation to be 
openly disreirarded, which would have put an end at once to the authority 
of his edicts, was compelled by the dilemma to lower the value of the coin 
as suddenly as he had raised it. This was at once realizing all the worst 
anticipations of the legislature as to the arbitrary fluctuations in the standard 
of value, besides being highly unjust and oppressive to such persons as 
had made payment of debts according to the new standard, and such as had 
given credit during the time of the alteration. The governors had by some 
means been stifTered to e.xercise the power of dissolving the Assemblies, 
and this having now grown into a usage was a favorite method of silencing 
their clamors, and they having rashly made the provision for the revenue 
perpetual and put the control of that subject into the king's hands, were 
bound hand and foot, and could not control executive usurpation by slopping 
the wheels of government. The governor now made use of this danger- 
ous power and dissolved the Assembly. The governor thus left without a 
watch or control over his actions proceeded to a vigorous exercise of ex- 
ecutiv^e powers. The unfortunate plant-cutters who had merely been im- 
prisoned, and such of them dismissed from time to time as would give 
assurance of penitence, and promise a peaceable demeanor, were now pro- 
ceeded against with the utmost rigor for what the king was pleased to call 
their treasonable conduct. But the noblest victim for tyrannical persecu- 
tion was Robert Beverly, the former clerk of the Assembly, Avho had re- 
fused to give up its papers without authority from "his masters, the house 
of Burgesses." For some reason it seems that an inspection of journals 
Avas demanded by the council again in 1682, and Beverley again refusing 
to deliver them was thrown into prison, in a king's ship, the Duke of York, 
then lying in the river, his persecutors being afraid to trust him to the 
keeping of the jails among his countrymen. Whilst he was in prison a 
committee of the council was appointed to seize the papers, which he fore- 
seeing this event had secreted. The pretence for this imprisonment were 
the most frivolous that can Well be imagined; he is accused of fomenting 
discord and stirring up the late partial insurrections, but the only specific 
act of which he was accused was setting on foot petitions for an Assem- 
bly.* Under these arbitrary proceedings he was detained a prisoner, de- 
nied the writ of habeas corpus, and hurried about from prison to prison 
until the governor at last thought proper, after two years searching for 
charges, to commence a regular prosecution. 

The accusation consisted of three heads : — 

1st. That he had broken open public letters, directed to the Secretary's 
office, with the writs enclosed for calling an Assembly, in April 1682, and 
took upon him the exercise of that part of the government, which belongs 
to the Secretary's office and was contrary to his ; — 

2nd. That he had made up the journal, and inserted his majesty's letter 
therein (which was first communicated to the house of Buigesses at their 
prorogation) after their prorogation; — 

3d. That he had refused to deliver copies of the journal of the house of 
Burgesses in 1682, to the lieutenant governor and council, saying, "that 
he might not do it without leave of his masters." 

This was all which could be charged against this faithful officer, after so 

*Henin- vol. ITT. p. 5«, 



HISTuliV OF VlliGLMA. 013 

loiijr ail iiiiprisoiiiiient, ami so long a prcpanilion for the prostriilion. But 
of course tliey will not bear scrutiny, beiun: only a flimsy vtil thrown over 
their dosigiis, rather indicating a wish to hide the naked deforniity of the 
prosecution, than actually concealing it. 

Before this notable prosecution was ended Lord C'ulpeper forfeited his 
commission, and was superceded by Lord Howard, who took the oaths of 
office on the 2tith of February 1G34. His first measure was to cnW an as- 
sembly which as a popular act, induced the colony to iiope some degree of 
mildness in his administration ; but these hopes were soon dissipated. He 
pursued the unfortunate plant-cutters with renovated vigor, and such of 
them as had been excepted in a proclamation of general pardon, were now 
executed and their estates after paying officer's fees, appropriated to the go- 
vernor's own use. 

The assembly met and refused to proceed with business for the want of a 
clerk, as their former clerk was in prison, and they refused to elect another. 
In this situation of affairs the matter seems to have been compromised, the 
governor no doubt despairing of his conviction upon the absurd charges 
made, and Beverley and his friends willing to end his long imprisonment 
and sufferings, by asking pardon, at the same time not giving up the pa- 
pers or the principles for which he suffered. Be this as it may Beverley 
threw himself upon the mercy of the court, declining to employ counsel or 
make any defence, and was pardoned.* Probably these long continued 
sufferings, with other persecutions afterwards endured, injured the constitu- 
tion of Beverley, for we find that he died prior to April 1687. His noble 
conduct induced king James the then reigning monarch, to deprive the 
Burgesses of the election of their own clerk, ordering the governor to elect 
him, and requiring the assembly to make the clerk so elected, the usual al- 
lowance for his services. 

The accession of James H. was proclaimed with the usual demonstrations 
17- u 1 - iro- of respect in the colonv, and complimentary assurances of 
loyalty on the one side and gracious regard on the other 
were exchanged between his subjects and the assembly. But nothing was 
done to secure the freedom of the colony, and Lord Iloward took advan- 
tage of the succeeding recess of the assembly, to enlarge the fees and per- 
cpiisites of his office, and to impose new ones without tlie advice or authori- 
ty of the assembly. This body which met in November, immediately took 
into consideration these arbitrary exactions, and passed spirited resolutions 
in reprobation of them, and made provision for the defence of the citizens 
from similar encroachments in future. To these, acts the governor applied 
his negative, without assigning any reason Lord Howard not satisfied 
with thus stopping the legislation of the colony, proceeded in eflect to acts 
of executive legislation, by issuing a proclamation, in obedience he said to 
the king's instructions, repealing several acts of the legislature, which were 
themselves repeals of former acts, and declaring the acts repealed by that 
body to be revived, and in full force as before the passage of the repealing 
acts. This proclamation the assembly protested against as illegal and un- 
warrantable, as utterly subversive of the government, annihilating the right 
of the popular branch, and bringing all to bow in humble submission to the 



Hcnin?, v. HI. p. .318 f ll>iil p. 550. 



me lilSTOkY OF VIRGINiii 

fnercy of the prerogative. The spirited conduct of the Burgesses, coald 
r)>t 20 irsr "°' ^*^ endured by the gevernor and he prorogued them. 
' ■ The governor had sent to James an account of the conduct 

of this assembly. This representation produced in reply from James, a 
furious, quarrelsome order, calling their conduct mutinous, and attributing 
it to their "unquiet dispositions and sinister intentions to protract the time 
of their sitting to the great oppression of his subjects, from whom they re- 
ceived wages;" concluding by an order for the prosecution of their clerk 
Beverley, to whom he ascribes all of these evils. 

In the same year several persons were imprisoned and punished for 
treasonable expressions. The council was now as servile as the governor 
could wish, and he proceeded without interruption ia his system of arbitra- 
ry innovation upon the established usuages of the colony, and the liberties of 
its citizens. 

The province of New York belonged to the king as proprietor as well 

TVT iA iro~ ^^ sovereign; and in order to strengthen this his own es- 
Nov. 10, 168/. , . 1 ° ' J f 11 .1, .V I • . • » • 

tate, he sent orders lor all the other colonies to assist m 

building forts, and sapplyhig garrisons for its western frontier, alledging 
that these measures were equally necessary for the protection of all; in con- 
formity to these orders a nnessage was received from governor Dungan, re- 
quiring the quota of Virginia, but the legislature refused to appropriate a 
man or a farthing for purposes from which they were to derive no benefit 
but rather an injury, as the protection of the north-western frontier would 
drive the Indians further south, where they might commit their depreda- 
tions upon the unprotected citizens with more impunity. 

Whilst the colony was contending against their governor, a revolution 

(r^o ^^^ England had dethroned the sovereign, and placed William and 

Mary upon the throne. This change whilst it placed the council 

which had made rnany loyal professions to James, in an awkward position, 

was an event producing analloyed joy to the people of Virginia, as they 

could now hope for justice to be done to their oppressive governor. 

Soon after this occurrence the war broke out between the allied powers 
and Lewis XIV. of France, and the colony was ordered to place itself in the 
best posture of defence. 

The complaints of the Virginia legislature against their governor at 
length were taken up by the privy council, and although the charges against 
Howard were not tried, yet redress against his usurpation was granted, at 
the same time that the principles upon which they contended that their 
rights had been violated, were denied to be correct. Howard pleading ill- 
health was not deprived of his commission for not returning to the colony, 
but as it Avas necessary that there should be a governor upon the eve of a 
war. Sir Francis Nicholson was sent over. His conduct was mild and con- 
ciliatory, and consequently popular; among other highly beneficial acts 
passed under his government, was one for the establishment of a college 
which was very liberally endowed. 

He was succeeded by Sir Edmund Andros as governor-in-chief, who is 

n . T^nL iff\n represented to have been actuated in his administration by 

Sept. %0, 1692. jj ,ji-uir .u I. r 

^ a sound judgment and a liberal policy; to have been exact, 

diligent and methodical in the management of business; of a conciliatory 

deportment and great generosity.* Sir Francis Nicholson was again made 

■'Burk, vol. II. p. 21G. 



HISTORY UF VIRGINIA. 617 

g-overnoi-in-cljief, in November 1698. He was an ambitious man, who had 
served in the capacity o( a governor, and deputj^ governor in several of the 
colonics, and taken great pains to become popular, and to make himself 
well acquainted with the situation of all the colonies, — their wants, — their 
trade, and their capabilities, with a view to unite them if possible under one 
government, over which he hoped to obtain the appointment of governor 
general. The pressure of war with the combined foice of the French and 
Indians, which seemed now about to fall upon the colonies, and rendered 
some union necessary for the purpose of defence, seemed highly favorable 
to his design. 

The French at an early day conceived a correct idea of the importance 
of the British colonies in America. The Count De Gallier, governor of 
Montreal, during his residence in Canada, after a long experience derived 
from observations on the spot, had formed the bold project of separating in two 
the English colonics by the capture of New York. I'he success of this 
scheme would manifestly have destroyed that concert so necessary to har- 
mony and eflicicncy of co-operation, and left the othei colonies liable to be 
cut oir in detail, and would effectually establish the safety of Canada by 
enabling the French to keep in check the powerful .savage confederation, 
composed of the Five Nations which had lately by a furious irruption laid 
waste the country even to the gates of Montreal and Gluebe-. This plan of 
Sent 160'^ Callier's was adopted by the French government. A fleet was 

^ ■ ' "■ sent to the bay of New York, with orders to retain possession 
of it, until December, when if no further orders were received, it was to sail 
for Port Royal, land its munition and stores and return to France. The 
land force were to have marched from Gluebec by the route of the Sorel 
river and Lake Champlain. This expedition was defeated by a destructive 
inroad of the Five Nations, which carried death and desolation over the 
whole country, even to the very gates of the capital. This unforeseen oc- 
currence rendered it necessary to retain the v/hole force at home in mea- 
sures ol self-defence, and saved New York, without her having to strike a 
blow in her own behalf 

The British government daily beco'ming'lt^re sensible of the importance 
of the North American colonies, and seeing the danger to which they were 
exposed by the plan of De Callier, set on foot a plan of general defence in 
the year 1695, adjusting the quotas of each colony to the ratio of its popu- 
lation, and forwarding the scale to the diiTerent governors, to recomnien3 
for the adoption of the respective colonial assemblies. Several oi the colo- 
nies rejected this scheme, because several of those wh'rli were thought most 
exposed Avishcd to employ it as their own interest dictated. Among the re- 
fractory was Virginia, which could not be prevailed upon by all the art and 
ingenuity of the governor, aided by his great enthusiasm in this his favor- 
ite plan, — to vote a cent to the enterprize, — to his inconceivable chagrin 
and mortification. Nicholson finding his own efibrts utterly unavailing, 
laid the matter before, the king, and urged the propriety of forcing Virginia 
to see her true interests upon this occasion. William in reply recomrnend- 
ed a new consideration of the matter by the General Acsembly, alledging 
upon the authority of Nicholson's report, " that New York was the barrier 
of Virginia against the Indians and the French of Canada; and as such it 
was but justice she should defend it." The assembly deemed iibut due respect 
to his majesty to take the subject again into consideration, but found no rea- 
son to change their former opinion, declaring "that neither thefor^s th^n in 
78 



618 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

being, nor any others that might be built in the province of New York, 
could in the least avail in the defence or security of Virginia; for that either 
the French or the northern Indians, might invade the colony, and not come 
within a hundred miles of such fort." 

The failure of this great subject irritated the governor beyond expression; 
and excited in his mmd the most inordinate antipathy to the assembly. He 
charged the conduct of the assembly to a spirit of rebellion, and inveighed 
against what he called its parsimony in the most unmeasured terms, offering 
to pay the quota of Virginia out of his own pocket, and boasting afterwards 
that he had done it, but at the same time, taking the obligation of the gen- 
tleman to whom he gave the bills, that no use should be made of them un- 
til the Queen should remit money to pay them. This affectation of gener- 
osity was designed to gain popularity with the other colonies. 

The history of Virginia from this period to the breaking out of the war 
with France, presents a remarkable dearth of interesting or striking inci- 
dent, all of which could be related would be a list of the governors, a detail of 
petty domestic affairs, a gradual extension and improvement of the colony, 
and a developement of the designs of France ; designs which were seen by 
some more penetrating spirits in the colonies, and measures recommended 
to defeat them, but which received no effectual check until the war broke 
out in 1754. 



We have now traced the progress of Virginia as far as it is possible to go 
with her affairs as an isolated province, cut offfrom all the world, and only 
struggling for existence at first with the savages, and afterwards for freedom 
with the mother country. She now becomes of importance in the political 
world, she emerges from obscurity and becomes a prize to be contended for 
by two of the richest and most powerful nations upon earth. She herself 
begms to' feel her strength, and dares to wrestle with the civilized nations 
of the world. She becomes one of a confederacy of colonies for the purpose 
of resisting the attacks of a foreign enemy, and finally to resist successfully 
the power of the mother country itself, and then a leading member of a con- 
federacy of independent nations. Our presumption and the necessity of the 
case have led us to attempt much more than will be forgiven, but cannot al- 
lure our feeble wing to essay a flight so daring as would be necessary to 
survey the broad field which now expands before u§. We leave it ricfr, 
tempting and beautiful as it is, to be painted by some master whose skill 
will enable him to exhibit the grandeiir and symmetry ot the whole, and 
yet present upon the same canvass a detail of each separate beauty. For 
ourselves, we cannot be so barbarous as to disfigure so magnificent a sub- 
ject by daubing it over with the same wretched colors, which we have laid 
on the preceding piece, in such extreme haste that we fear it will be difficult 
to distinguish the characters or design. For the rest our readers must be 
content with a very brief and general outline of the progress of affairs pre- 
sented in the following: — 

Sketch, of Virginia, )i,isl.ory from the hcgmning of the French wo.r to the 
beginning of the Revolution. 

After the accidental failure of De Callier's design upon New York, the 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. Gi9 

French governors in possession of Canada and Louisiana, endeavored to 
strengthen themselves by uniting as far as possible their respective provin- 
ces. With this view, acting in concert they made no direct attacks, but con- 
tinued to extend their forts and strengthen their power by alliances with 
the wild Indian tribes located between them; thus at once endeavoring'to 
connect their possessions, — to monopolize the Itulian trade; and to limit the 
British seWlewents. 

These designs of France produced a mission from the governor of Vir- 
ginia to the commander of a fort, erected on the Ohio, in jthe year 1751. 
The Gonjmissioaer sept was George Washington, then 19 years old. The 
answer of the coramandant was evasive. The Virginians prepared for war 
and the French commenced an attack on the American trades and forts. 

An expedition was soon sent against the French, the command of which 
devolved upon Washington after the death of Col. Fry. Washington at 
first gained a trividA success against a detachment under Monsieur Jumon- 
ville, who wqis killed, and was proceeding to the attack of fort Duquesne, 
the main object of his enterprize, when he learned that the French, consid- 
erably fevjnforced were advancing; this induced him to retreat to Fort Ne- 
cessity, a small stockade work which he had erected at the Great Meadows; 
in this work he sustained tJie incessant fire of the French for a day, when 
the French asked gt parley and Washington surrendered the place upon 
highly honorable ternis, being allowed to pass with his troops and baggage 
into the settled parts of Virginiij. 

Great Britain began to see the necessity of aiding the colonies in their 
manly efforts to repel the enemy from their borders, and she sent an army 
under General Braddock, to protect the colonies and drive the French from 
the Ohio. Braddock met a convention of war from the several colonies at 
Annapolis on the 14th of April 1755, composed of the governors of New 
England, Maryland, Pennsylvania and Virginia, at which convention con- 
cert of military operations was agreed upon. The legislature of Virginia 
made liberal appropriations, Washington accompanied the expedition as a 
volunteer aid to Braddock. ^ ., 

The fate of this unfortunate expedition is too well known, Braddock va- 
lued too highly his own military skill, and the discipline of the British 
troops, he knew nothing of the character of his enemy, and so little did he 
esteem the provincials, (in his situation the best troops of his army,) that he 
left them all behind at fort Cumberland, — the Little and the Greaf Mea- 
dows, — and with General Dunbar, — except three companies of Virginians. 

Braddock advanced with too much confidence, and kept iip in a savage 
wilderness all the "pomp and circumstance of war" which his military 
education had taught him were indispensable in Europe; he advanced un- 
molested until he had crossed the Monongahela, and arrived within a few 
miles effort Duquesne, when he fell into an ambuscade of French and In- 
dians; his troops were thrown into confusion, and after sustaining the mur- 
derous fire of an enemy concealed from their view for several hours, and 
having most of their officers killed, and their General mortally wounded, 
retreated in confusion: their rear was protected by the friendly Indians and 
few provincials left. The army ft.-ll back upon Col. Dunbar,'Avho was next 
in command; and who marched off to Philadelphia, leaving two companies 
of provincials with the sick and wounded at Fort Cumberland. 

Braddock's defeat was of course followed by barbarous and distressing 
cruelties of the Indians to the frontier settlers •, th^se were resisted by Wash 



6a0 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

ington as well as he was able with the small force under his command ; but 
no regular expedition was undertaken against the enemy until the year 
1758, when General Grant was disgracefully defeated before the walls of 
fort Duquesne, by the same rigid adherence to European tactics which had 
defeated Braddock. 

After the defeat of Grant the scattered and terrified troops were again 
collected, and the fort taken by Washington in the third year of the war, 
who repaired and garrisoned it, and named it Pittsburgh, in honor of the 
minister, who then presided over the councils of Great Britain. 

The treaty of Fontainbleau in November, 1762, between Great Britain, 
France, Spain and Portugal at length put a period to the war. 

Questions touching the power of the British Parliament to interfere with 
the concerns of the colonies had arisen more than once before the war, and 
during its continuance the delicate question arose of the proportions which 
the several colonies should pay lor the common defence; the British 
ministry proposed that deputies -should meet and determine the amount 
necessary, and draw on the British treasury which in turn should be reim- 
bursed by an ecjual tax on all the colonies to be laid by Parliament; but 
the colonies were afraid to let the lion put his paw in their pockets even to 
to take back his own, and this being no time to raise difficulties the colo- 
nial legislatures were left to their own discretion in voting supplies, which 
they did with a liberality so disproportioned to their ability as to excite the 
praise and in some instances to induce a reimbursement on the part of the 
mother country. 

Virginia had always resisted any interference on the part of Parliament, 
especially in the navigation acts, and asserted as early as J 624 that she only 
had the undoubted right "to lay taxes and impositions, and none other," 
and afterwards refused to let any member of the council of governor Berke- 
ley, in the height of his popularity, to assist them in determining the 
amount of the public levy. Again in 1676 even stronger language was 
used and acquiesced in by the king.to whom it was immediately addressed. 

The slight taxes imposed' mr the regulation of commerce and the sup- 
port of a post-office were borne by the colonies without a murmur, being 
considered only a fair compensation for a benefit received. 

In March, 1764, the ministers declared it "expedient to raise a revenue 
on stamps in America to be paid into the king's exchequer," the discussion 
of this was postponed until the next year in Parliament, but commenced 
immediately in America, and the proposition Avas met by every form of 
respectful petition and indignant remonstrance ; which were however 
equally unavailing, and the stamp act passed in 1765. 

The passage of this act excited universal and indignaut hostility through- 
out the colonies, which was displayed in the forms of mourning and the 
cessation of business; the courts refused to sanction the act by sitting, and 
the bar by using the stamps. In the succeeding Virginia legislature Patrick 
Henry introduced and earned among others the following resolution: — 

"Resolved, that the General Assembly of this colony, together with his 
majesty, or substitute, have in their representative capacity, the only ex- 
clusive right and power to lay taxes and impositions upon the inhabitants 
of this colony; and that every attempt to vest such power in nnj person 
or persons whatsoever, other than the General Assembly aforesaid, is ille-^ 
gal, unconstitutional and unjust, and has a manifest tendency to destrov 
British as well as American freedom." 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. C21 

After the passage of Henry's resolutions the governor dissolved the As- 
sembly, but the people re-elected the friends and excluded the opposer of 
the resolutions. 

The spirited conduct of Virginia fired the ardour of the other colonies, 
they passed similar resolutions, and a general congress was proposed. 
The deputies of nine states met in New York on the first of October; they 
draftfd a Declaration of Rights, a petition to the King, the Commons, anxl 
the Lords, The stamp act was repealed, and Virginia sent an address of 
thanks to the king and Parliament. 

The joy of the colonies was short-lived. British ministers imagine4 
that they could cheat the colonies out of their opposition to taxation withr 
out representation, by laying an import duty instead of a direct tax, and 
accordingly a duty was laid upon glass, tea, paper and painter's colors ; but 
this was equally against the spirit of the British constitution, and met with 
a warmer and more indignant resistance on the part of the colonies, who 
now began to believe they had little to hope from the justice of Parliament. 
The Legislature of Virginia passed very spirited resolutions, which it 
ordered to be sent only to the king: upon the passage of which the gover- 
nor dissolved it ; and the members immediately met and entered unani- 
mously into a non-importation agreement. 

The British ministers perceived their error and determined to pause u) 
their violence, to effect this object the governors were directed to inform 
the colonies that his majesty's ministers did not intend to raise a revenue 
in America and the duties objected to should be speedily repealed. These 
assurances made to Virginia by Lord Botetourt, a governor whom they 
highly respected, served with his own good conduct for a time to allay her 
suspicions of the ministry, but the course they pursued towards Massar 
chusctts was more than sufficient to re-kindle her jealousy. She passed a 
protest declaring that partial remedies could not heal the present disorders, 
and renewed their non-importation agreeiiient. In 1771 Botetourt died, 
and Virginia erected a statue to his memory, which still stands in the towrj 
of Williamsburg. 

The delay of Lord Dunmore in New York for some months after his 
appointment to the gubernatorial chair of Virginia, excited the prejudices 
of the colony, which his sending a man of some milhary distmction as a. 
clerk, and raising a salary and fees for him out of the colon}', were by nq 
means calculated to dissipate. The first legislature that met compelled 
the governor to dispense with the emoluments of his secretary Capt. Foy ; 
and the next after thanking him for his activity in apprehending some 
counterfeiters of the colony paper, strongly reprove him for dispensing 
with the usual forms and ceremonies with which the law has guarded the 
liberty of the citizen. The same legislature having provided for the sound- 
ness and security of the currency, the punishment of the guilty, and re- 
quired the governor to respect the law; turned their eyes to their sister 
colonies, and appointed a committee of correspondence to inquire into the 
various violations of their constitutional rights by the British ministry. 

Whilst Virginia was employed in animating her sister states to resis- 
tance, her governor was employed in the ignoble occupation of fomenting 
jealousies and feuds betwet-n the province, which it should have been his 
duty to protect from such a calamity, and Pennsylvania, by raising difficult 
questions of boundary and exciting the mhabitants of the disputed territory 
to forswear allegiance to the latter province: hoping ihu.s by affording a 



622 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

more ininaediately exciting question to draw off the attention of these t\yo 
important provinces from the encroachments of Great Britain. This 
scheme as contemptible as it was iniquitous wholly failed, through tKe 
good sense and magnanimity of the Virginia council. 

Lord North full of his feeble and futile schemes o( cheating the eobnie? 
out of their rights, took off the obnoxious duties v/ith the exception of 
three pence pei^ pound on tea, and with the ridiculous idea that he might 
fix ihe principle upon the colonies by a precedent, which should strip it ot 
all that was odioue, offered a draw-back equal to the import duty. This 
induced the importation of tea iato Boston harbor, which being thrown 
.overboard by some of the citizens, called down upon their city all the rigor 
,of the celebrated Boston port bill. 

A draught of this bill reached the Virginia "legislature whilst in session, 
an animated protest, and a dissolution of the Assembly by the governor of 
course followed. On the following day the merftbers convened in the Ra- 
leigh tavern, and in arj able and manly paper expressed to their constitu- 
ents and their government those sentiments and opinions which they had 
not been allowed to express in a legislative torm. This meeting recom- 
mended a cessation of trade with the East India company, a congress of 
deputies from all of the colonies, "declaring their opinion that an attack 
upon one of the colonies was an attack upon all British America," and a 
^<•.onvention of the people of Virginia. The sentiments of the people 
accorded with those of their late delegates,— they elected members who 
met in convention at Williamsburg on the first of August_1774. This 
convention went into a detailed view of their rights and grievances, dis- 
cussed measures of redress for the laUer, and declared their determina- 
.iion never to relinquish the former; they appointed deputies to attend a 
general congress, and they insinicted them how to proceed. The congress 
met in Philadelphia on the 4th September, 1774. 

Whilst Virginia was engaged in her efforts for the general good she 
was nat virjthout her peculiar troubles at home. The Indians had been for 
•some time waging a horrid war upon the frontiers, when the indignation 
£i( the people at length compelled the reluctant governor to take up arms 
and march to suppress the very savages he was thought to have encouraged 
and excited to hostility by his intrigues. 

Lord Dunmore marched the army in two divisions, the one under Col. 
Andrew Lewis he sent to the junction of the Great Kanawha with the 
Ohio, whilst he himself marched to a higher point on the latter river, with 
the pretended purpose of destroying the Indian towns and joining Lewis 
at Point Pleasan-t; but it was believed with the real* object of sending the 
whole Indian force to annihilate Lewis' detachment, and thereby weaken 
•the power and break down the spirit of Virginia. If such was his object 
he was signally defeated through the gallantry of the detachment, which 
met and defeated the superior numbers of the enemy at Point Pleasant, 
after an exceeding hard fought day and the loss of nearly all its officers. 
The day after the victorv an express arrived from Dunmore with orders 
for the detachment to join him at a distance of 80 miles, through an ene- 
my's country, without any conceivable object but the destruction of the 



♦ See Memoir of Indian wars, &c. by the late Col. Stuart of Greenbrier presented 
to the Virginia Historical and Philosophical Society by C. A. Stuart, of Augusta, 

for a i-irciBs; corroburaliiyii of these suspic-ions. 



HISTORY OF V1RC41NIA. 623 

corps. As these orders were given without a knowledge of the victory, 
Col. Lewis was proceeding to the destruction of the Shawanese villages, 
when he was informed that the governor had made peace. 

The state of exasperation on the part of the colonies and the stubborn 
determination of the ministry made it manifest that there must soon be 
some overt act of hostility: this act was first committed in Virginia by its 
governor, who removed the gunpowder belonging to the colony from the 
magazine in Williamsburg to his Majesty's ship Magdalen, on the night of 
the 19th of April, 1775. This act threw the whole colony into a blaze, 
the people of Williamsburg demanded immediate restitution, and their 
demands were politely evaded. The citizens of Fredericksburg offered 
assistance to the town of Williamsburg, which was deemed in danger from 
the governor, and Patrick Henry marched at the head of a company of 
Hanover volunteers and forced the king's treasurer to make just compen- 
sation for the powder. The governor called a council which advised him 
to issue a proclamation calhng the people to their duty, which he accord- 
ingly did, but with an effect so little beneficial to himself, that feeling no 
longer safe he sent for marines to protect him in his palace, and Captain 
Montague threatened to fire upon York if the detachment was interrupted. 
This threat excited in a still greater degree the animosity of the people, 
whose open and bitter denunciations so alarmed the governor as to make 
him again have recourse to his council, which advised recourse to an as- 
sembly to appease and alleviate the excited wrath of the citizens. 

The meeting of this assembly at once proclaimed that all confidence 
between the governor and people was gone, many met in arms, they fear^'d 
the solemn sanctity of their character would not be respected, and they 
depended for protection upon their individual prowess. It was a humilia- 
ting and exciting spectacle for the people. The governor was alarmed 
and fled by night to a British ship, and refused upon invitation of the 
Assembly to return to his palace, or to sign bills presented to him, of the 
utmost importance to the colony, and refused to perform this branch of his 
duty unless the assembly would come and hold their meetings under the 
guns of his ship. In this emergency the governor was declared to have 
abdicated, and the president of the council appointed to act in his place, 
and as it appeared that on his retreat he had liberated the Indian hostages 
without having ratified the treaty, commissioners were appointed to ratify 
in behalf of the colony. His Lordship after the termination of intercourse 
between himself and the Assembly, sailed down the river, attempting to 
enlist citizens against their country, and slaves against their masters. He 
never again resumed his power. From that moment to the present day 
the people of Virginia have governed themselves. 



GENERAL INDEX 



OF PLACES AND SUBJECTS. ARRANGED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER. 



Abbeville, 
Abingdon, 

Aborigines of the Dis- 
trict of Columbia. 

Abstract of scj^ool com 
missioners reports, 

ACCOMAC 

AccoMAC county, 
Agriculture, 

I^LBEMARLE COUnty, 

Albemarle Sound, 

Aldie, 

Alleghany Mountain, 

Alexandria City, D. C. 

Alleghany county, 

Allen's Cave, 

Amelia county, 

Amelia C 

Amendments to the Fed. } 

Con. proposed by Va. ) 
Amherst county, 
Amherst 
Amissville, 
Amsterdam 
Annalostan or IVIason's 

Island, D C. 
Anthony's Creek, 
Appalachian system, 
Appomattox river, 
Aquia, 
Arnoldston, 
Arnold's Old Place, 
Ararat, 
Archville, 
Augusta county, 
Augusta Springs, 
Austinville, 

79 



P. O. 

P o. 



C. H. 



P. O. 



H 



C. H. 
P. O. 
P. O. 



P. O. 



O. 

V. 

o. 
o. 



P.O. 

P. o. 
p. o. 



233 

464 

476 



111 

ib. 

99 
112 

36 
210 

30 
477 
308 
448 
126 
127 

525 

128 
129 
158 
328 

494^ 

352 
31 
36 
285 
\SQ 
171 
260 
405 
309 
313 
457 



Bacon Castle, 

Back Creek Vallei^ 

Baileysbutgf, 

Balrcrny Falls, 

Ballardsville, 

Ballsvilte, 

Banister River, 

Barboursville, 

Barboursville, 

Banks, 

Barnes' Mills, 

Batesville, 

Bath county, 

Bath, or Berkley springs, 

Bath Iron Works, 

Battletown or Berrysville 

Barksdale, 

Bays, harbors, rivers, } 



p. 0. 

FO. 

p. o 
p. o. 
p. o. 
p. o. 

p. V. 
p. V. 



o. 

o. 

o. 
o. 
o. 



p. o. 



swamps, 
Beaverdam, 
Bedford county, 
Beeler's Station, 
Bell Haven, 
Bell Isle, 
Bellona Arsenal, 
Bellona, 
Belleville. 
Belle Valley, 
Bennett's Store, 
Bentleysville, 
Berger's Store, 
Berkley county, 
jBerhngton Mills, 
Bethany, 

I Bethlehem Xi Roads 
; Beverly, 
'Bichley's Mills, 



S 



286 
338 
286 
425 
387 
264 
37 
254 
333 
104 
390 
113 
319 
402 
425 
338 
184 

36 



P. 


o. 


151 
129 


p. 


0. 


405 


p. 


0. 


Hi 


P. 


o. 


229 
152 


p. 


0. 


195 


p. 


o. 


465 


p. 


o. 


425 


p. 


o. 


185 


p. 


0. 


lb. 


p. 


o. 


260 
325 


p. 


0. 


ib. 


p. 


o. 


330 


p. 


0. 


279 


p. 


V 


423 


p 


0. 


439 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Big Creek, 


P. O. 


387 


Burning Spring, 




378 


Big Sandjr River, 




37 


Burtons viUe, 


P. P. 


254 


Big Spring, 


P. O. 


348 


Burk's Garden, 


P. P. 


461 


Birch River, 


P. 0. 


403 


Burksville, 


P. P. 


268 


Billsburg, 


p. o. 


423 


C 






Blacksburg, 


p. o. 


401 


Cabell county. 




332 


Blacksvi'le, 


p. 0. 


390 


Cabin Point, 


P. P. 


286 • 


Blacks & Whites, 


p. o. 


252 


Cackley's Store, 


P. P. 


418 ' 


Black Walnut, 


p. o. 


185 


Calahan's 


P. P. 


308 


Blackwell's Mills, 


p. o. 


172 


Calland's, 


P. P. 


260 


Black AValer River, 




37 


Calloway's Mills, 


P. P. 


177 


Bloomsburg, 


p. 0. 


185 


Calvin's Tavern, 


P. P. 


158 


Bloomfield, 


p. o. 


2U 


Campbell county, 




136 


Blovi^ing Cave or Pan- 


) 


432 


Campbell 


C. H. 


137 


ther's Gap, 


^ 


Capeville, 


P. P. 


251 


Blue Mountain, 




31 


Carlton's Store, 


P.P. 


201 


Blue Stone, 


p. p. 


461 


Caroline county, 




142 


Blue Ridge, 




32 


Ca.rter's Store, 


P. P. 


268 


Blue Sulphur Springs, 




352 


Carters ville, 


P. V. 


161 


Boon's Mills, 


p. 0. 


177 


Ca Ira, 


P. P. 


160 


Booth's Ferry, 


p. 0. 


423 


Cavesville, 


P. P. 


255 


Botetourt Springs, 


p. o. 


328 


Cedar Creek, 


P. P. 


450 


Botetourt county, 




327 


Cedar Grove, 


P. P. 


425 


Boswellville, 


p. 0. 


221 


Centreton, 


P. P. 


185 


Bowling Green, 


p. V. 


142 


Centreville^ 


P. P. 


168 


Bowers, 


p. 0. 


279 


Centreville, 




462 


Bowman's Mills, 


p. 0. 


433 


Chalk Level, 


P. P. 


261 


BoYDTON, 


p. V. 


233 


Chambless' Store, 


P. P. 


131 


Bradleysburg, 


p. o. 


221 


Chancellorsville, 


P. P. 


282 


Brandonville, 


p. 0. 


420 


Chapman's Mills, 


P. P. 


348 


Brandywine, 




204 


Charlottesville, 


P.T. 


113 


Brentsville, 


p. V. 


273 


Charles City county, 




144 ; 


Bruington, 


p. 0. 


201 


Charles City 


C. H 


ib. 


Bridgeport, 


p. 0. 


362 


Charlotte county, 




145 


Brock's Gap, 


p. 0. 


433 


Charlestown, 


P. V. 


367 


Brooke county, 




330 


Cheat River, 




38 


Brooklyn, 


p. a 


185 


Chesapeal<e Bay, 




ib. 


Brookneal, 


p. V. 


136 


Chesapeake Peninsula, 




39 


Brownsburg, 


p. o. 


425 


Chesnut Grove, 


P. O. 


260 


Brown's Cove, 


p. o. 


113 


Chesnut Hill, 


P. P. 


254 


Brunswick county. 




132 


Chesterfield county, 




151 


Buckingham 


C. H. 


134 


Chickahominy river 




38 


Buchannon, see Pat- ) 




328 


Chilesburg, 


P.P. 


143 


tonsburg, ) 




Chowan river, 




39 


Buchannon, 


E. O. 


384 


Christiansburg," 


P. V. 


401 


Buckland, 


p.t). 


273 


Chrisfiansville, 


P. P. 


234 


Baffalo Forge, ■ ■ : 


p.p. 


425 


Chuckatuck, 


P. P. 


238 


Buffalo Springs, 




129 


Churchville, 


p. P. 


236 


Bull Creek, 


p. p. 


465 


City Point, 


P.V. 


270 


Burlington, 


p. p. 


357 


Civil list of Virginia, 




72 


Bull Town, 


p. p. 


385 


Civil list of U. S. 




509 


Burgess' Store, 


p. p. 


252 


Clarksburg, 


p. V. 


363 



GENERAL INDEX. 



627 



Clarkston's Store, 


P. O. 


201 


Davis' Mills, 


P. 0. 


131 


Clifton, 


P. O. 


439 


Davis' Tavern, 


P O. 


287 


Climate of D. of C. 




474 


Dawson, 


P 0. 


240 


" of Virginia, 




57 


Deatonville, 


P 0. 


127 


Clinch river, 




40 


Deer field. 


P. o. 


313 


Clintonsville, 


P. o. 


353 


Declaration of Rights, 




523 


Clover Dale, 


p. o. 


328 


Dennes' 


p. 0. 


127 


Coal River Marshes, 


p. 0. 


336 


Deep Creek, 


p. 0. 


246 


Coal river, 




40 


District of Columbij* 


1 


471 


Coalsmouth, 


p. 0. 


378 


Diamond Grove, 


p. 0. 


ia2 


Coalsville, 


p. o. 


153 


Diana Mills, 


p. 0. 


134 


Cold Harboi", election pr 


?cint, 


186 


Dickinson's Store, 


p. 0. 


131 


Cold Stream Mill, 


P.O. 


■357 


Dillon's Run, 


p. 0. 


358 


Colleges, 




80 


DiNwiDDiE county, 




161 


Collin's Settlement, 


P. U. 


385 


Dinwiddie 


C.H. 


162 


Columbia, 


P. 0. 


176 


Dismal Swamp, 




41 


Columbian College, 


D. C. 


.503 


Diuguidsville, 


p. 


134 


Columbia Grove, 


P. () 


222 


Di.vville, 


p. 0. 


195 


Ccman's Well, 


P. 


287 


Doddsville, 


p. 0. 


172 


Commerce, 




100 


Double Bridge, 


P.O. 


22-2 


Commerce of Alexandria,©. C. 


478 


Dover ]?tlills. 


p. 0. 


182 


Competition, 


P. V. 


261 


Drapers' Valley. 


p. 0. 


467 


Concord, 


P. 0. 


137 


Dronsville, 


p. 0. 


168 


Congressional Dis. of V 


a. 


.512 


Drummond's Town, ) 




1 1 1 


Conrad's Store, 


P. O. 


433 


or Accomack C.H. ) 






Cooper's, 


P. 0. 


178 


Dumiiies, 


p. o 


274 


Conowaugh, 


p. o. 


196 


Dunnsville, 


p. o 


167 


County courts. 




71 


Dunkard Creek, 


p. o. 


390 


Covesville, 


p. o. 


114 


Dunkirk, 


p. 0. 


201 


Covington, 


p. V. 


308 


Dyer's Old Store, 


p o. 


114 


Cow Pasture river. 




41 


E 






Crab Run, 


P, 


417 


Earlevsville, 


P 


114 


Crafton, 


P o 


261 


Early Traditions, 




468 


Craig's Creek, 




40 


Eastville. 


P.V", 


251 


Craig's Creek, 


P o 


328 


Edgefield, 


P o 


172 


Cranberry Plains, 


p. 0. 


349 


Education, 




.77 


Criglarsville, 


p. 0. 


225 


Edward's Ferry, 


P n 


211 


Cross Keys, 


P 0. 


433 


Electoral Districts, 




513 


Guckooville, 


P o 


221 


Election I^aws. 




515 


CuLPEPER count}'. 




154 


Eldridge's, 


p o. 


1 34 


Cumberland county, 




159 


Elizabeth river. 




42 


Cumberland 


C 11. 


161 


Elizabeth CiXYxe-tv, 




i64 


Cumberland mountain, 




34 


Elk Hill, 


P o. 


127 


Cyclopean Towers, 




316 


Elk Marsh, 


p. 0. 


172 


D 






Elk River, 




42 


JDabney's Mill, 
Dagger's Springs, 
Danielsville, 


p. 0. 


221 


Elk Run Church, 


P. o. 


172 


p. o. 
p. 0. 


328 
282 


Enfield, 
Essex county. 


p. 0. 


204 
167 


Davis' Store, 


p. o. 


131 


EsTILLVILLE, 


P V. 


441 


Dan River, 




41 


Evansham, 


p. v.- 


46^ 


Danville, 


p. 0. 


261 


Evansville, 


p. o. 


421 


Darks vi He, 


P.O. 


325 


Everettsville, 


p. 6. 


114 



628 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Faber's Mills, 


P. 


0. 


240 


Face of the country, 






17 


Fairfax, or Culpeper 


c. 


H. 


158 


Fairfax county, 






168 


Fairfax C. H. 


p. 


V. 


ib. 


Fairfield, 


p. 


0. 


426 


Fairview, 


p. 


o. 


331 


Falling Bridge, 


p. 


o. 


137 


Falling Spring Creek, 






320 


Falling Waters, 


p 


0. 


326 


Falmouth, 


p. 


V. 


285 


Farm Tavern, 


p. 


0. 


279 


Farmville, 


p. 


V 


268 


Fancy Hill, 


p. 


0. 


426 


Farrowsville, 


p. 


o 


172 


Fauq,uier county, 






171 


Favette county, 






334 


Fayetteville, 


p. 


0. 


172 


Federal Hill, 


p. 


0. 


361 


Fife's, 


p. 


0. 


182 


Fincastle, 


p. 


T. 


328 


Finney Mills, 


p. 


0. 


127 


Finneywood, 


p. 


0. 


150 


Fiscal concerns, 






101 


Fisheries of the Potomac, 




480 


Fishing Creek, 


p. 


0. 


462 


Flat Creek. 


p 


0. 


137 


Flat Rock, 


p. 


0. 


264 


Flat Woods. 


p. 


o. 


385 


Flint Hill. 


p. 


0, 


276 


Flood's, 


p 


0. 


134 


Flowing Spring, 


p 


o 


321 


Floyd county. 






336 


Fluke's. 


p. 


0. 


329 


Fluvanna county. 






175 


Fortsmouth, 


p. 


0. 


450 


Fotheringay, 


p. 


0. 


401 


Foxville, 


p. 


o. 


172 


Frankfort, 


p. 


0. 


354 


Frankfort, 


p. 


o. 


358 


Franklin, 


p. 


V. 


317 


Franklin count}', 






176 


Frederick county. 






337 


Fredericksburg, 


p. 


T 


282 


French Creek, 


p 


0. 


385 


Freeman's creek. 


p 


0. 


ib. 


Friend's Grove, 


p. 


0. 


150 


Front Royal, 


p. 


V. 


338 


G 








Gainsboro', 


p. 


o 


339 


Gains' ;^ Roads, 


p 


o. 


276 



Gardner's j><j Roads, 
Garland's Store, 
Gauley Bridge, 
Gauley river. 
Geology and Minera- ) 

logy of Va. ) 

Geology and Minera- ) 

logy of D. of C. \ 
General description ^ 

of Western Va. ^ 
General Court, 
Genito, 
Georetown, D. C. 

•' Internal Im- ) 

provements, ^ 

" Manufactures ) 

and public buildings, ) 
'■ College, 

Convent, 
Gerardstown, 
German Settlement, 
Germantown, 
Gholsonville, 
Git.Ts count}', 
Glady Greek !^ .Roads, 
Glenn's, 

Gloucester county, 
Gloucester 
Golansville, 
Goochland county, 
Goochland 
Goodsbridge. 
Goodvvynsvillc, 
Gordonsville, 
Goshen, 
Government and Laws ) 

of Virginia, ^ 

Government of D. of C. 
Grantley's, 
Granville, 
Grape Island, 
Graves', 
Grave Creek or ) 

Elizabeth Town, ^ 
Grayson county, 
Grayson C. H. or 

Greensville, 
Great Bridge, 
Green Bank, 
Green Bottom, 
Green Bay, 
Greenbrier county. 



P. 


0. 


'Z^i 


p. 


0. 


114 


p. 


0. 


336 
42 



p. o. 



23 
473 

299 

71 

264 
491 

ib. 
493 







494 






496 


P. 


0. 


326 


p. 


0. 


421 


p. 


0. 


172 


p. 


o. 


132 
346 


p. 


0. 


424 


p. 


o. 


179 
178 


c. 


H. 


179 


p. 


0. 


143 
179 


c. 


H. 


182 


p. 


O. 


153 


p. 


0. 


162 


p. 


0. 


255 


p. 


o. 


211 

69 

476 


p. 


o. 


158 


p. 


V. 


390 


p 


o. 


462 


p. 


0. 


225 


p 


0. 


405 
349 


p. 


0. 


849 


p. 


0. 


247 


p. 


o. 


418 


p. 


o. 


333 


p. 


0. 


186 
349 



GENERAL INDEX. 



620 



Greenbrier river, 




4-2 


iHendrick's Store, 


P. 0. 


131 


Greenfield, 


P. O. 


240 


Henrico county, 
Henry county, 




188 


Green Hill, 


P. O. 


137 




195 


Green Mount, 


P. 0. 


204 


Hereford's, 


P. o. 


388 


Greensbiirg-, 


p. o. 


234 


Hermitage, 


p. u. 


268 


Green Valley, 


p. o. 


322 


HiCKSFORD, 


p. V. 


183 


Greensvillk county. 




183 


Hill Grove, 


p. 0. 


261 


Greenville, 


p. V. 


314 


Hillsboro', 




211 


Griflinsburg, 


p. 0. 


158 


Hock man. 


p. 0. 


354 


Griggsby's Store, 


P o. 


173 


HofTsville, 


p. o. 


363 


Griggs vi lie, 


p. V. 


211 


HoUida'y's Covo, 


p. 0. 


331 


Gwinn's Mills, 


p. 0. 


303 


Holmes' Mills, 


p. 0. 


211 


Guyandotte, 


p. V. 


333 


llolston river, 




43 


Guandotte river. 




42 


Honicsvilie, 


p. o. 


414 


Guyandotte Little river. 




ib. 


Hope's Mills, 


p. o. 


ib. 








Horn Town, 


p. V. 


IIJ 


H 




Hot Springs, 


p. 0. 


322 


Hackersville, 


p. 


385 Hovvellsville, 


p. V. 


339 


Hailstone, 


p. o. 


'^-34 Hovsville, 


p. o. 


211 


Halifax county. 




184 Hugbesvillc, 


p. 0. 


ib. 


Haleysburg, 


p. 0. 


'-^-■^iHuir.s Store, 


p. o. 


417 


Half Way House, 


p. o. 


203 1 Hunters Hall, 


p. o. 


178 


Hague, 


p. 0. 


292, Hunters VI lle. 


p. V. 


418 


Hallford, 


p. 0. 


1?8 


Huttoi).$viile, 


p. o. 


424 


Hallsboro', 


p. 0. 


153 


Huttsville, 


p. 0. 


292 


Hallsville, 


p. o. 


127 


Hydmiiiic Mills, 


p. o. 


114 


Hambaugh's, 


p. o. 


414 








Hamilton's Store, 


p. o. 


211 


I 






Hampshire county. 




355 


Increase of population, 




68 


Hampstead, 


p. 0. 


202 


Ingram's Mills, 


p. o. 


462 


Hamptox, 


p. V. 


164 Internal Improvements, 




87 


Hampton Roads, 




42 


" of Alexan- ) 






Hanging Rock. 


p. 0. 


358 


dria, D. C. I 




480 


Hanover county,. 




185 


Isle or WinuT county 




:im 


Hanover 


C. H. 


186 


Isle ov Wi<;jit 


cr' 


ib. 


Hanoverton, 


p. 0. 


187 








Hansford, 


P o. 


380 J 






Harden's Tavern, 


p. 0. 


114 Jackson county, 




365 


Hardv county, 




361 Jacksonville, 


p. v.. 


337 


Harnham, 


P. o. 


277 Jackson River, 


p. 0. 


3Q3 


Harper's Ferry, 


p. V. 


358 Jackson river. 




43 


Harrisonburg, 


p. V. 


433 Jackson's, 


p. 0. 


221 


Harrison county, 




352 James City county. 




197 


Harrisville, 


p. 0. 


132 James City, 


p. 0. 


225 


Harrisville, 


p. 0. 


1 52 i James Town, 


p. V. 


268 


Harvey's Store, 


p. 0. 


150 


James Town (Old,) 




197 


Hatchersville, 


p. 0. 


153 


James river. 




43 


Hazard Forge, 


P 0. 


361 


Jeftries' Store, 


P o. 


252 


Healing Spring.s, 


p. .o 


322 


Jefferson county. 




367 


Healv's 


p. 0. 


236 


Jeffersonville, 


p. V. 


462 


Helm''s-, 


p. o. 


178 


Jefferson ton, 


p. V. 


158 


Hendersort'.s, 


P 


329 


Tfmap, 


P 


143 



630 



GENERAL INDEX 



Jenning's Gap, 


P. O. 


316 


Leedsville, 


P.C 


424 


Jerusalem, 


P. V. 


279 


Lee county, 




381 


Jetersville, 


P. 0. 


127 


Leesburg, 


P. V. 


211 


Johnson's Spring, 


p. 0. 


182 


Lee's Sulphur Springs, 




173 


Jonesboro', 


p. o. 


133 


Leetown, 


P. 0. 


372 


JONESVILLE, 


p. V. 


383 


Leesville, 


p. o. 


137 


Judiciary, 




70 


Lewisburc, 
Lewis county. 


p. V. 


354 

384 


K 






Lewi sport, 


p. V. 


363 


Kanawha county, 




373 


Lewisville, 


p. V. 


133 


Kanawha 


C. H. 


380 


Lewiston or TiUncn- } 


p. V. 


222 


Kanawha Saline, 


p. O. 


ib. 


burg C. H. \ 






Kanawha Salt Works, 




381 


Lewis' Store, 


p. 0. 


283 


Kanawha Great River, 




44 


Lexington, 


p. T. 


426 


Tirana wha Little River, 




45 


Liberty Hall, 


P. O. 


261 


Kempsville, 


P. V. 


271 


Liberty, 


P V. 


131 


Kennedy's, 


p. 0. 


133 


Liberia, 


P. o. 


274 


Keysville, 


p. o. 


151 


Lick Creek, 


p. o. 


354 


Kilmarnock, 


p. 0. 


206 


Lindsey's H Roads, 


p. o. 


176 


King George county, 




202 


Lind.sey's Store, 


p. o. 


114 


King George 


C. H. 


ib. 


Linnviile Creek, 


p. 0. 


433 


King & Q,UEEN county 


J 


200 


Literary Fund, 




77 


King & Queen 


C. H. 


201 


Little Cacapon, 


p. o. 


359 


King's Ferry, 


P. U. 


390 


Little river, 




45 


King William county 




203 


Little Plymouth, 


p. V. 


201 


King William 


C. H. 


204 


Littleton, 


p. 0. 


287 


KiNGWOOD, 


P. V. 


421 


Locust Creek, 


p. 0. 


221 


Kinsale, 


P. 0. 


292 


Locust Dale, 


p. 0. 


159 


Kite's Mill, 


P. 0. 


414 


Locust Grove, 


p. (j. 


25.5 


Kite's Mills, 


P. O. 


433 


Logan county, 




386 


Kittatinny Mountains, 




34 


Lombardy Giove, 


p. 0. 


234 


Kittatinny Vallej^ 




35 


Lloyd's, 


p. 0. 


167 








Lombardy, 


p. o. 


127 


L 






Longvvood, 


P 0. 


114 


Lancaster county, 
Lancaster 


c. n 


205 
ib. 


London Bridge, 
Lorctlo, 


p. 0. 
p. o. 


271 
167 


Lanesville, 


p. o. 


ib. 


Lorentz's Store, 


p. o. 


386 


Langliorne's Tavern, 


p. V. 


161 


Lost River, 


p. o. 


362 


L-ne's, 


p. o. 


3S8 


LouDOTTX comity. 




ao6 


Lawnsville or ) 




387 


Louisa county. 




216 


Logan C. H. ) 




Louisa 


C. H. 


221 


Lawrenceville, 


p. V. 


133 


Lovingston, 


p. V. 


240 


Laws, 




75 


Lowman's, 


p. 0. 


386 


Laurel Hill, 




36 


Lunatic Asylums, 




85 


Laurel Hill, 


p. 0. 


223 


Lunenburg county. 




222 


Laurel Spring, 


p. 0. 


114 


Luney's Creek, 


p. 0. 


362 


Leading Creek, 


p. 0. 


386 


LURAY, 


p. V. 


414 


Leatherwood's Store, 


p. 0. 


195 


Lyell's Store, 


p. 0. 


277 


Lebanon Forge, 


p. o. 


426 


Lynchburg, 


p. T. 


137 


Lfbanon, 


p. V. 


439 








Legislature, 




70 


31 






Leed's, 


p. 


292 


Manassa's Gap, 


p. o. 


339 





GENEKAl 


. INDEX. 






6^^ 


Manchester, 


P. 


V. 


153 ! Military organization, «k 


c. 




83 


Mannboro', 


P. 


0. 


127 


Milton, 






114 


Mang-oliick, 


P. 


o. 


205 


MiUflirm, 


P. 


0. 


143 


Madison coiint\', 






223 


Miller's Tavern, 


P. 


o. 


167 


Madison, 


P. 


V. 


225 


Millville, 


P. 


o. 


202 


Madison's Oave, 






311 


Millgrove, 


P. 


n. 


234 


Manufactures, 






99 


MiUboro', 


P. 


o. 


287 


Marble Hill, 


P. 


0. 


2G9 


Milboro' Spring, 


P. 


0. 


322 


Marion, 


P. 


V. 


454 


Mill Creek, 


P 


0. 


327 


Marksville, 


P. 


0. 


415 


Millwood, 


P. 


V. 


339 


Marshall county, 






387 


Mil ford, 






363 


Martixsrurg, 


P. 


V. 


327 


Mineral Waters, 






24 


Marysville or > 






150 


Mitchell's, 


P 


0. 


182 


Charlotte C H. S 






Modesttown, 


P. 


V. 


112 


Marysville, 


P. 


V. 


134 


Monongahela river, 






46 


Mason's or Analostan } 






494 


Monticello, 






115 


Island, ^ 






Montague, 


P. 


0. 


167 


Mason county, 






388 Monroe county, 






392 


Massanutten, 






415 


Montpelicr, 


P. 


0. 


187 


Matchapiengo river, 






45 


Mont vi lie. 


P. 


o. 


213 


Mathews county, 






225 


Monroeton, — 


-P. 


0. 


261 


Mathews, 


C. 


H. 


224 


Monongahela county. 






389 


Mathewsville, 


P. 


O. 


419 


Montgomery county, 






400 


Mattaponi river, 






45 


MOORFIELDS, 


P. 


V. 


361 


Mayfield, 


P. 


V. 


196 


Morgan county. 






402 


Maysville or } 






134 


Moreman's river. 


P. 


0. 


115 


Buckingham C.H. ^ 






Morganville, 


P. 


0. 


252 


McGaheysville, 


P. 


0. 


433 


Morris' Hill, 


P. 


o. 


309 


McRaevilIe, 


P. 


0. 


173 


Morrisville, 


P. 


V. 


173 


McFarland's 


P. 


0. 


223 


Moore's Ordinary, 


P. 


0. 


269 


McWhorter's Mills, 


P. 


o. 


386 


MORGANTOWN, 


P. 


V. 


391 


Meadsville, 


P. 


o. 


185 


Mountains, 






27 


Mechanicsville, 


P. 


o. 


221 


Alleghany, 






30 


Meadow Dale, 


P. 


0. 


354 


Bhie, 






31 


Meherrin Grove, 


P. 


o. 


228 


Blue Ridge, 






32 


Meherrin river, 






45 


Mount Alto, 


P. 


o. 


117 


Mecklenburg county. 






229 


Mount Israel, 


P. 


0. 


ib. 


Meigsville, 


P. 


V. 


424 


Mount Vernon, 






169 


M-emoirs of Indian Wars 


, 




350 


Mount Laurel, 


P. 


0. 


185 


Merritnan's Shop, 


P. 


o. 


269 


Mount Gilead, 


P. 


o. 


213 


Mersey's, 


P. 


o. 


131 


Mount Horeb, 


P. 


o. 


241 


Middlebourn, 


P. 


V. 


462 


Mount Airy, 


P. 


o. 


262 


Middletown or > 
Polsley's Mills, ^ 


P. 


o. 


391 


Mount Meridian, 
Mount Sidney, 


P. 
P. 


0. 
V. 


317 
318 


Middletown, 


P. 


V. 


339 


Mountain Cove, 


P. 


0. 


336 


Middlebrook, 


P. 


V. 


316 


Mount Lineus, 


P. 


o. 


390 


Middlesex county, 






235 


Mountain Cove, 


P. 


0. 


403 


Middleburg, 


P. 


V. 


212 


Mount Crawford, 


P 


0. 


433 


Midway, 


P. 


0. 


159 


Mount Hope, 


P. 


0. 


450 


Middleway or Smith- ) 


P 


V. 


372 


Mount Jackson, 


P 


0. 


ib. 


field, S 


Murrell's Shop, 


P. 


0. 


241 



632 



GENERAL INDEX. 



N 
Nansernond liver, 

Nansemond County, 

Narrative of Mrs. Scolt, 

Natural Bridge, 

Natural Tunnel : See > 
Stock creek, ^ 

Navy Yard, Washinq-to 

Negro Foot, Election } 
Precinct, i, 

Nelson C'ountv, 

New Glasgow, 

New York, 

New Canton, 

New Store, 

New London, 

New Baltimore, 

New Found Mills, 

New To'.vn, 

Newark, 

New-market or Tve ri- ) 
ver warehouse, ^ 

New Kent County, 

New Kent 
Newby's Cros.s Road, 
New Hope, 

New Castle, 
New Town, or Stevens- ) 
burg, ^ 

New river, 
Newbern, 
New-market, 
Nicholas County, 
Nicholas C. H. or ^ 
Summersville, ^ 
Ninevah, 

Norfolk County, 
Norfolk Borough, 
Northampton County, 
Northumberland Co. 
Northumberland ( 
North river mills. 
North river Meeting > 
House, ^ 

North-west river Bridge, 
North End, 
Nottoway river, 
Nottoway Count}', 
Nottoway 
Noland's Ferry, 
Nuttsville, 



o 





47 


Oak Grove, 


P. 0. 


292 




23;^ 


Oak Grove, 


P. O. 


223 




437 


Oakland, 


P. o. 


403 




42? 


Oakville, 


p. V. 


135 


P, 0. 


44^ 


Oak Hill, 


p. o. 


173 






[Oatland Mills, 


p. 0. 


214 


)n, 


50.- 


Occoquan, 


p. V. 


274 




. ^.^ (Jccoquan river, 




47 




'■' (Jfiice Tavern, 


p. 0. 


127 




23'.!, Ohio county. 




404 


P. V. 


12ti,Ohio river, " 




47 


P. V. 


117 


iOid Church, 


p. 0. 


187 


P. V. 


135 


Old Point Comfort, 


p. 0. 


164 


p. 0. 


ib 


Onancock creek, 


p. 0. 


112 


p. V. 


141 


Orange county, 




253 


p. V. 


173 


Orange 


C. H. 


255 


p. 0. 


187 


Orange Spring, 


p. o. 


ib. 


p. 0. 


201 


•Orleans, 


p. o. 


173 


p. 0. 


222 


iOrsborn Ford, 


p. 0. 


442 


p. 0. 


24 1 


' Otter Bridge, 
Otter Peaks, 


p. o. 


132 
ib. 




242 


Overall's, 


p. o. 


415 


C. H. 


243 


Oxford, 


p. 0. 


143 


P. o. 


27G 


P 






p. V. 


318 


Paddy Town, 


p. V. 


359 


p. y. 


329 


l^AGE county. 




408 


p. V. 


339 


Pain's Cross Roads, 
Painsville, 


p. 0. 
p. V. 


206 
128 


P.O. 


393 


Palmers's Springs, 




234 


p. V. 


401 


Palatine Hill, 


p. 0. 


392 


p. V. 


450 


Palmyra, 


p. V. 


176 




403 


Pamunkey river, 




49 




ib 


Panther's Gap, 


p. 0. 


432 




Paris, 


p. V. 


173 


p. 0. 


340 


Partlow, 


p. o. 


283 




243 


Parham's Store, 


p. o. 


287 


p. T. 


247 


Parisburg, 


p. V. 


348 




249 


Parkersburg, 


p. V. 


465 


C. H. 


251 

252 


Pattonsburg and Buc- 
hannan, 


I p. V. 


329 


p. 0. 


359 


Patrick county. 




256 


p. 0. 


ib. 


Patrick, 


p. 0. 


201 


Paytonsburg, 


p. o. 


262 


p. o. 


248 


Peaks of Otter, 




132 


p. 0. 


229 


Pedlar's mills. 


p. o. 


129 




47 


Pendleton, 


p. 0. 


442 




252 


Pendleton county, 




415 


C. H. 


ib. 


Penn's, 


P.O. 


260 


p. o. 


214 


Penitentiary system } 




501 


p. o. 


206 


Dis. Columbia, ( 





GEiNEUAL INDEX 



633 



O. 

v. 



PeiiiteDt.iary sysleni ) 

of Virginia, ) 

Peninsula Chesapeake, 
Pen nsbo rough, 
Pembroke Springs, 
Petersburcj, 
Perterstown, 
Philmont, 
Physic Spring, 
Pig river, 
Pine Grove, 
Pipnig Tree, 
Pittsylvania County, 
Pleasant Hill, 
Pleasant Valley, 
Pocotalico, 
Pocotalico liver, 
Pocahontas coiuiiy, 
Poindexter's store, 
Point Plkasant, 
Political and Moral I 

condition, S 

Poplar Run, 
Poplar Mount, 
Port Republic, 
Population of the Dis- ) 

trict of Columbia. ^ 
of Alexan- } 

dria. D. C, ^ 

of George- } 

town, D. C. 5 

» of Wash- } 

ington, D. C. j 

" of Eastern i 

and Western Vir- > 

ginia. ) 

Port Royal, 
Portsmouth, 
Potomac river, 
Pottiesville, 
Powhatan county. 
Powel's, 
Primary Schools. 
Preston county, 
Prince Edward county. 
Prince Edward, C. H 

Princess Ann county, 
Princess Ann, C. H 

Prince George county. 
Prince George, C. H 

Prince William county. 
Principal Towns,. 

80 







466 


P. 


0. 


340 


p. 


T. 


162 


p 


0. 


393 


p. 


V. 


214 


p. 


o. 


135 
50 


p. 


0. 


463 


p. 


o. 


205 
260 


p. 


o. 


454 


p. 


o. 


171 


P. 


0. 


381 

50 

417 



P. V. 
p. T. 

P. O. 

F O. 



o- 1 Principal rivers, 

'''I Prospect Hill, 

39 Prospect, 

Pryor's Vale, 

Public Buildings, D. C. 

I'ungoteague, 

Purcell's Store, 

Prunty Town, 

R 

Racoon Ford, 

Raines' Tavern, 

Randolph county. 

Randolph Macon Col- ^ 

lege, S 

Rapid Ann Meeting Hon 

Rapid Ann river, 

Rappahannock river, 

Rappahannock Academy, 

222i Rappahannock coimty, 

388 1 Ratification of Federal ) 

^,. Constitution, S 

661 



255 



434 



476 
479 
404 
499 



Rebecca Furnace, 
Rector Town, 
Red Hill, 
Red House, 



^ Red Sulphur Springs, 



, Red Sulphur Seminary, 

Reed's, 

Reedy Spring, 

Religion, 

Religious and Moral As 
sociations of Alexan- 
dria, D. C. 







23 


P. 


0. 


171 


p. 


o. 


269 


P. 


o. 


129 
499 


p. 


o. 


112 


p. 


(). 


215 


p. 


V. 


364 


p. 


o. 


159 


p. 


0. 


161 
422 

234 


se. 




225 
52 
ib. 


p. 


0. 


143 

276 

523 


P. 


o. 


329 


P. 


V. 


173 
142 


P. 


0. 


151 


P 


o. 


393 
396 


P 


o. 


366 


P. 


o. 


142 

76 



478 





Republican Grove, 


P. 


O. 


185 


66 


Revenue, 






103 




Rexeville, 


P. 


O. 


159 


143 


RichardsviHe. 


P. 


O. 


ib. 


248 


RICHMOND crry, 






188 


50 


Richmond county. 






277 


222 


Richmond, 


c. 


H. 


ib. 


262 


Right of Suffrage, 






71 


182 


Richieville, 


P. 


O. 


164 


77 


Ripley, 


P. 


V. 


366 


420 


Rivanna river, 






52 


265 


River Bank, 


P 


0. 


255 


269 


Roanoke Bridge, 


P. 


0. 


151 


271 


Roanoke river, 






53 


ib. 


Robertson's Store, 


P. 


0. 


262 


269 


Rock Creek, 






52 


270 


Rocky Mount, 






178 


271 


Rock Mills, 


P. 


o. 


159 


23 


RocKBDiDGE county, 






424 



G34 



GENERAL INDEX 



Rockingham county, 

ROMNEV, 

Rose Mi]b, 

Rough Creek Church, 

Rose Hill, 

Ruckmanville, 

Rutnford Academj', 

Russell county, 

" s 

Saint Tammanv's, 

Saint James's Church 

Salem, 

Salem, 

Salem, 

Salt Sulphur Springs, 

Saltville, 

Sand lid oe's, 

Sandv Mount, 
Sandj^ river, 
Sandy river church, 
Sappoiiy Creek, 
Sannderson\s, 
Shulti^'s Range, 
Scottsburg, 

Scenery and Natural ) 
Curiosititrii. ) 

Scottsville, 

SCOTTSVILI.E, 

ScoTT county. 

Section First, rsaturnl ^ 

and Political, S 

Sf.'cond, Natu f 

ral and Political, S 

'i'hiid, iXafuial j 

and Political, \ 

Fourth, Naru '^ 

ral and Political, », 



Siege ot York a 

Gloucester, 
Seven Mile Ford, 
Sevveirs, 

Sewell Mountain, 
Shackelford, 
Shady Grove, 
Shai^ion Hill, 
Sheetz's Mill. 
Sherrard's Store, 
Sheppardstown, 
Shenandoah river, 
Shenandoah cuUh 
Shi^nston, 
Short Puaup, 



nd ^ 
S 



P. V. 

P. o. 
p. o. 
p. o. 
p. o. 
p. o. 



o, 

o. 

V. 
V. 

o. 

0. 

o. 
o. 

o. 



p. o. 
p. o 
p. o 
p. o. 
p. o. 



!* V 
p. A 



P. o 
P o 
P o 
P o 
p. o 
p. o. 
F o. 
P o. 

P V 



P V. 
P u 



4 321 Situation, Boundaries, ) 
360 and Extent of Va. j 
129 Sistersville, 
151 Skidmore's, 
384 Slate Mills, 
323 Smith's Creek. 
205 Smithtield, 
434 Smithsville, 
Smith Store, 
23.5 Smith field, 
132 SsiYTH county, 
1 /'4lSuickersville, 
3oO)Snicker's Ferry, 
364|SoiloftljeDis/of Col 
396 Somerville, 
454|Somnierton, 
129;,?outh Quay, 
183|SouthHill," 
54{South Landing, or ^ 
2691 Brownsville. ^ 

ir»4!So.rTHAMPTON countv, 
182|Sp:u-ta, 
466|Spanish Grove, 
I^dJSpottsylvania county, 

-jrjSpOTTSVLVAMA, 

''jSpoltedville, 

1 17 Spring Farm, 

2 6 5 1 S p r i n g C roe k' , 
4 to'Springiield, 

. ,^ ■"'piing (-Tarden, 

Siiiisaidsville, 
. .Siaiiord Springs, 



17 



ibi 



■ » r A V V K D c u i ! ! y . 

iS J' A FIORD. 



I'ArXTO.S". 

,>t;'\vn<\ ill'', 

:.-,H'\ enslurg. 

jSiociv' Creek. 

jriiuncy Point MjIIs. 
4oDjStoue Wall Mills, 
3ii6jSroney Point, 
354lstoney Creek Ware- ^ 



;tJ 



■i'J-l 



201 
178 
182 
3G0 

ih. 
373 

54 
4 1^ 
364 
195 



house, 

Stoney Man, 
Stoney Creek, or s 

ock, 
Stras.sburg, 
Sturgeonville, 
Sublett's Tavern, 
Sugar Tree, 

SCFFOLK, 

Surry county. 



\ 



ny 



P. 


0. 


463 


P, 


0. 


424 


p. 


0. 


276 


p. 


0. 


434 
392 


p. 


0. 


265 


p. 


0. 


262 


F. 


V 


197 
45a 


p. 


V. 


215 


P. 


0. 


340 
471 


P. 


V. 


173 


P. 


V. 


238 


P. 





239 


P. 


0. 


235 


P. 


V. 


334 

278 


P. 


0, 


J 44 


P. 


0. 


235^ 
279 


C. 


H. 


284 


P. 


0. 


285 


P. 


o. 


348 


P. 


0. 


• 354 


P. 


V. 


360. 


P 


0. 


262 


P 





255. 


P 


o, 


286. 
284 


c. 


H 


285 


p 


V. 


318 


p 


0. 


201 


p 


V 


159 
442 


p 


o. 


161 


p 


o. 


135 


p 


0. 


117 


p. 


o. 


287 
415 


p 





452. 


p. 


0. 


450 


p. 


V. 


133 


p. 


o. 


265 


p 


0. 


262 


p 


V 


238' 
286^ 



GENERAL INDEX. 



635 



SURRV, 

Sussex count)', 
Sussex, 
Suttonsville, 
Sweet Springs, 
System Appalachian, 

Table of Penitentiary ) 
convicts, ) 

Tanner's Store, 
Tan yard, 
Tappahannock, 
■Taylor's Store, 
Taylorsville, 
Taylorsville, 
Tazewell county, 
Teages' Valley, . 
Templeton, 
Tennessee river, 
Thompson's X Roads, 
Thompson's Store, 
Thompsonville, 
Thornburg, 
Thortitons Gap, 

Thoroughfare, 

Thorn Hill, 

Tiber or Goose Creek, 
ffodd's Store, 

Traylorsville, 

Travellers' Repose, 

Triadelphia. 

Tjout Run, 

Turner's Store, 

Twyman's Store. 

Tye river, 

Tye River Mills, 

Tyler coiuuy. 

V 

Union Halt, 

Union, 

Union, 

Union Mills, 

Unted Statrs Arsenal. 

University of Virginia. 

Upperville, 

Urbanna, 

Urquhart's Store, 

V 
Vadensbu rg. 
Variety Mills, 
Veilleboro', 
Verdon. 



C H 


286\Verdiersville, 


P. 0. 


256 




ib. ^ 


V^a. House of Delegates, 




469 


C. H. 


287 


" Senate, 




470 


P. V 


404 


" Election Laws, 




515 


P.O 


397 
31 


W 










Walkerton, 


P. 


201 






Walker's Church, 


P.O. 


269 




86 


Walnut Branch, 


P.O. 


174 


P 0. 


235 


Walnut Grove, 


P. o. 


381 


P. 


252 


Warm Springs, 


P V. 


323 


P. V 


167 


Warminster, 


p. 0. 


241 


P. (_). 


178 


Warren's Store, 


p. o. 


185 


P. 0. 


187 


Warrenton, 


p. V. 


174 


P. V. 


260 


Warren, 


p. V. 


126 




460 


Warren Ferry, 


p. 0. 


135 


P. 0. 


381 


Warwick county. 




288 


p. 0. 


270 


Warwick 


C. H. 


ib. 




54 


Washington, 


P V 


276 


p. 


222 


WASHINGTON City 


I 


496 


p. o. 


187 


Washington co. D. C 




509 


p. 0. 


159 


Washington Co. Va. 




463 


p. V. 


284 


Water Fowl of Potoma(: 




482 


p. 0. 


159 


Watkins' Store, 


' p. 0. 


262 


p. V, 


275 


Waterford, 


p. y. 




p. 0. 


255 


Watkinsville, 


p, 6! 


183 


p. 0, 


132 


WattsboiV, 


p. 0. 


223 


p. 0. 


284 


Waylandsburg, 


P.O. 


159 


P.O 


196 


Waynsboro', 


F, V, 


319 


p. 


419 


Waugh's Ferrv 


P 


129 


P, 0. 


40.? 


[ Weaver's Mills. 


P 


175 


P 


362 


i Wellsburg, 


P V 


332 


P 0. 


144 


i Western Ford, 


P o. 


424 


p. 0. 


284 


j West Liberty, 


P. 


405 




56 


j Westmoreland c'tv- 




288 


P o 


■li 1 


i Westmoreland 


C H 


292 




-lf,v Western "S'irginia — In- 


r 


297 






troduction. 


s 




p. o. 


r,^ 


West Union, 


P 0. 


405 


P. V. 


215 


j Wharton's Mills, 


p. o 


132 


P V 


400 


i Wheatley, 


P V 


J75 


p. 


176 


j Wheeler's Spring, 


p. o 


151 




506 


j Wheeling City, 


p. T. 


406 


p. 0. 


117 


i White Dav, 


p o. 


392 


p. V 


215 


1 White Hail. 


p. V 


340 


P T. 


236 


i White Chimneys, 


P 


144 


P n 


. 279 


' While Plains. 


P 0. 


133 






(White Oak Grove, 


p. 0. 


132 


p. 0. 


153 


I White House. 


p. 0. 


235 


p. 


241 


! White Sulphur Springs 


. p. 0. 


354 


P 


1 14 


[White Post, 


p. 0. 


340 


P 


187 


1 Whittles' MilLs. 


p. o. 


233 



GENERAL INDEX 



Wicomico Church, P. O. 

Wigwam, 

Wilderness, 

WlLLIAMSBlTRG, 

William's Store, 
Wilsonville, 
Wilmington, 
Winchester, 
Winn's Tavern, 
Wonders of Cave Hill 

or Ruffner's Gave, 
Wood Grove, 
WoodlawH; 
Wood county, 
Woodstock, P. A^. 




252 
128 
284 
198 
262 
324 
176 
340 
176 

409 

216 
187 
465 
152 



Woodville, P. V. 277 

Woodpecker's Level, P. O. 178 

Wright's Mills, P. O. 366 

Wyatt's Ferry, P. O. 424 
Wyer's Cavel 311 

Wyliesburg, p. Q. 151 
Wythe county, 455 

Y 

Yanceyville, P. O. 222 

Yancey's Mills, P.O. 126 

Yellow Branch, P. O. 142 
York county, 292 

York Town, P. V. 293 
York river, 56 

Youghioghany nver. 57 



FINIS. 



